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JANUARY 2019                               NAILSMAG.COM




        How to
        Select a
        Dust Mask


               MEET THIS YEAR’S

   COVER TECH
                       Winn e r       NAIL TECH
                                    NEW YEAR’S
                                   RESOLUTIONS


                                    Our Guide to
                                  COMMON NAIL
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            ‫ﻮ‬‫آﻣ‬                     CONDITIONS
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NEW YEAR,
                 NEW LENGTHS




                                                     SOAK-OFF
                                                     SCULPTING GEL
                                                     FOR NAIL EXTENSIONS




                                ORLYBEAUTY.COM/PRO | @ORLY
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               AVAILABLE AT AUTHORIZED DISTRIBUTORS, OR CONTACT US FOR MORE INFO 800.275.1111
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CUT
          YOUR CORD
          Now introducing the 18G Unplugged™ rechargeable LED light.
            Finally, the ultimate performance in a rechargeable light.
           With consistent power that you can trust. 18G Unplugged™
               with Intelligent Power Assist™ and Comfort Cure™.




           Intelligent Power   Comfort Cure™   Displays real-time    Built-in handle    36 Watt
            Assist™ ensures     Technology     battery level and    for convenience    LED Light
           consistent power                     LED countdown
           when the battery
                 is used




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HM-9805
 © 2018 Hand & Nail Harmony, Inc.




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                                                    | gelish.com         US PATENT 8739431,
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        CND and VINYLUX are registered trademarks of Creative Nail Design, Inc. ©2019 Creative Nail Design, Inc.
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NEW YEAR. NEW SHADES.
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        15 NEW CND® VINYLUX® COLORS EXCLUSIVE TO THE PRO.




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24 SHADES
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HM-9818
 © 2019 Hand & Nail Harmony, Inc.




                                             Introducing one-stroke nail art with Art Form™ Gels.
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                                             No wrinkling, no marbling, no messy inhibition layer.




                                                Define and Design 2D Technology
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CONTENTS | January 2019 | Volume 36 | No. 12




        FEATURES
        42 Cover Tech Contest 2018:
        Bold Traditions
        Nail tech Albee Chen’s boldly colored
        twist on Japanese-style art won the
        top spot this year. Darlene Tewitz’s
        elegant stiletto nail design took the
        first-runner-up spot, while Kryssy
        Hawkins’s sharp geometric design was



                                                                                                 20
        the second-runner-up, and KaSundra
        Anderson’s glitzy foil nail look was the
        third-runner-up.

        46 A Guide to Servicing Common
        Nail Conditions
        Troubleshoot common nail conditions
        by targeting the cause and customizing
                                                                                                               46
        your care — both in the salon and with
        home care recommendations.


        TECHNIQUE 22
        24     Demo: Orly

        STYLE 26
        28     Nail Art Studio

        BUSINESS 30
        32     Crowdsourcing: What are your nail-
               related New Year’s resolutions?
                                                                             26
        HEALTH 34
                                                                       IN
        36     Healthy Tech Q&A: Joei Ellis
        38     A Day in the Life of a Nail Expert:                   EVERY
               Retronychia, Dysplastic Nevus, and                    ISSUE
               Glomus Tumor
                                                               10    We Hear You
                                                               12    On My Mind
                                                               14    Nails File
                                                               18    Freebies
                                                               20    On the Road
                                                               50    Reader Nail Art
                                                               52    Product Spotlight
                                                               55    Ad Index
                                                               56    Deal Sheet
                                                               64    My Other Life




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            ‫ﻮ‬‫آﻣ‬                                                                          COVER LOOK
                                                                      NAILS ALBEE CHEN | PHOTOGRAPHER ALBEE CHEN
www.




                                                                    MODEL HARMONY KLOES | PRODUCTS USED APRÉS NAIL
       deter land. com
       8 NAILS MAGAZINE | JANUARY 2019               | www.nailsmag.com
GIFT NILE
                                                                            OF
                                                                           THE




                                                  “We knew we wanted a collection featuring jewel tones and that also
                                                 payed homage to all the empowered women out there. We drew on the
                                                mysterious power of ancient Egypt and immense strength of the Nile river
                                                 itself when conceiving this collection. The result? A collection of colors

                                               powerful and dark yet versatile enough to complement any look this winter.”


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                                                       - Lezlie McConnell, Light Elegance Owner & Color Mother
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WE HEAR YOU


            WHERE IN THE WORLD IS NAILS MAGAZINE?



                                                                                            Publisher Michelle Mullen
                                                                                           Michelle.Mullen@bobit.com
                                                                                          Executive Editor Beth Livesay
                                                                                             Beth.Livesay@bobit.com
                                                                                       Senior Managing Editor Judy Lessin
                                                                                              Judy.Lessin@bobit.com
                                                  Here I am standi                     Associate Editor Katherine Fleming
                                                                   ng in front of
                                                 the Sun Voyager                          Katherine.Fleming@bobit.com
                                                                    Sculpture on
                                                 the bay in Reykjav                            Contributing Writers
                                                                     ik, Iceland.
                                                This picture was                             Michelle Pratt, Sree Roy,
                                                                   taken about
                                                10 p.m. at night                           Holly Schippers, Sarah Waite
                                                                 while it’s light
                                                all summer long                           Guest Editor Valerie Ducharme
                                                                 .
                                                                                            Art Director Yuiko Sugino
                                                NinaDawn Patt                                Yuiko.Sugino@bobit.com
                                                                on
                                                Johnson City, Te                        Graphic Artist Kandace Kuwahara
                                                                 nn.
                                                                                          Kandace.Kuwahara@bobit.com
                                                                                    Media Operations Manager Carla Benavidez
       If you have a photo of yourself reading NAILS Magazine, send                        Carla.Benavidez@bobit.com
       it to Beth.Livesay@bobit.com. Make sure to include your name,                 Production Coordinator Oliver Calonzo
       salon name, city, state and a brief synopsis of what’s going on                      Oliver.Calonzo@bobit.com
       in the photo (where you are, what you’re there for, etc.).


            www.nailsmag.com/nyfwss19                                                              National Sales
                                                                                            Shannon Rahn, (310) 533-2434
                                                                                             Shannon.Rahn@bobit.com
                                                                                    Sales & Marketing Coordinator Heidi Dimaya
         Hello 2019!                                                                          Heidi.Dimaya@bobit.com

         Get a glimpse at the nails that will                                                For subscription inquiries:
         be trending come spring/summer.                                               (888) NAILS-44, bobitpubs@omeda.com

                                                                                                 Send business and
                                                                                           editorial correspondence to:
                                                                                       3520 Challenger St., Torrance, CA 90503
            www.nailsmag.com/nexttopnailartist/2018/
                                                                                                  (310) 533-2507 Fax
                                                                                                 www.nailsmag.com
                                                       Competition
                                                       Is Always in                     Chairman Edward J. Bobit (1961-2014)
                                                                                             CEO/President Ty F. Bobit
                                                       Season                         Chief Financial Officer Armand Del Duca
                                                       Season 6 of NAILS Next         COO/Group Publisher Cyndy Drummey
                                                       Top Nail Artist returns on
                                                       January 22.
                                                                                              A BOBIT BUSINESS MEDIA PUBLICATION
            www.nailsmag.com/add-ons                                                      Connecting Beauty Professionals
                                                                                           at Every Stage of their Careers


        Add It On
        Read about the multitude of add-on
        services to consider for your salon.
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       deter land. com
       10 NAILS MAGAZINE |        JANUARY 2019 | www.nailsmag.com
GET INTO
                                                                                   CONDITION
                                                                                           CND® SOLAROIL®
                                                                                          Nail & Cuticle Care
                                                                                      deeply penetrates the
                                                                                         nail with a blend of
                                                                                           sweet almond oil,
                                                                                    jojoba oil and vitamin E.
                                                                                        Leaves skin and nails
                                                                                      moisturized. Use daily
                                                                                         over your nail color.




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        CND and SOLAROIL are registered trademarks of Creative Nail Design, Inc.
www.




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       ©2019 Creative Nail Design, Inc.                                                                  cnd.com
ON MY MIND




                                                   Reflection,
                                                   Concentration,
                                                   and Confidence
                                                   NAILS invited guest editor and NAILS Next Top Nail
                                                   Artist Season 5 winner Valerie Ducharme to give our
                                                   readers advice on a topic she felt relevant to the
                                                   industry. Being the artist that she is, she chose to
                                                   discuss creativity.


                                                   F
                                                          or me, creativity is being able to take risks, try something
                                                          new, follow your instincts, and get out of your comfort
                                                          zone in order to discover new techniques, develop new
                                                   ideas, and create new trends. Standing out is not easy in our
       Valerie Ducharme giving her acceptance      industry, but the best way to do it is to show your personality
       speech for her NTNA Season 5 win.           through your nail art.
                                                     Replicating images on Pinterest is not creating. Even if you
                                                   say that you have changed the colors or added glitters, the fact
                                                   remains that you have not created anything that reflects who
                                                   you are. It is easier to follow a trend than be the creator of a
               facebook.com/nailsmag               movement. You have to know that it will be difficult for you
                                                   to stand out as a nail artist if your work looks like everything
               @nailsmag                           you find on the web. Find an image, a garment, or a jewel that
                                                   inspires you and create something new. I want to see your story.
               @nailsmagazine                        Take the example of the kitchen chef who mixes flavors,
                                                   colors, and textures. His recipes might not be appreciated
               nailsmagazine                       by everyone, and he takes the risk of being criticized, but he
                                                   will certainly be recognized for his audacity, innovation, and
               youtube.com/nailsmagazine           creativity. It’s up to you to choose who you want to be. There is
                                                   nothing wrong with following a cookbook sometimes. It can be
                                                   very relaxing and comforting, unlike creation, which requires
                                                   reflection, concentration, and a great deal of confidence.
                                                   Sometimes we just need to take a break to better channel and
                                                   replenish our energy.
                                                     For those who are ready to try to develop their creativity,
                                                   why not take on a personal challenge by following the new
                                                   NAILS Next Top Nail Artist contestants? Act as if you were
                                                   participating in the contest and create your own projects. It will
                                                   get you out of your comfort zone and you will actually create.
                                                   Trust me, it will make you grow. Don’t forget to have fun!



                                                   Valerie Ducharme
                                                   @vdnailart
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       deter land. com
       12 NAILS MAGAZINE |      JANUARY 2019 | www.nailsmag.com
Tap into your inner starlet with the
                                                                                                                                 Forever Fabulous Marilyn Monroe™
                                                                                                                                 2018 collection. With classic shades
                                                                                                                                 and exciting, vibrant tones, this
                                                                                                                                 color range is sure to leave a lasting
                                                                                                                                 impression just like Marilyn herself.
HM-8723
© 2019 NAIL ALLIANCE LLC.




                             Marilyn Monroe™ and the Marilyn Monroe signature are trademarks of
                             The Estate of Marilyn Monroe LLC. Rights of Publicity and Persona Rights
                             are used with permission of The Estate of Marilyn Monroe LLC.
                             Photo by Milton H. Greene © 2018 Joshua Greene Inc. marilynmonroe.com




                                             BATTING                       THE CAMERA                   WISH UPON   BLUE-EYED
                                            MY LASHES                       LOVES ME                    A STARLET    BEAUTY




                                           I PREFER                          SOME LIKE                    ICE OR    DIAMONDS
                                         MILLIONAIRES                          IT RED                    NO DICE    ARE MY BFF




                                          A KISS FROM                     HOLLYWOOD’S                    SHE’S A    WRAPPED
                                            MARILYN                       SWEETHEART                    NATURAL     IN SATIN           COLOR SHOWN:
                                                                                                                                 A KISS FROM MARILYN




                            AVAILABLE at:
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                                                               gelish.com | MorganTaylorLacquer.com
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NAILS FILE
        Beauty Pros Explore
        Social Media at Salon
        Digital Summit
        The first event held in collaboration between NAILS,
        Salon Today, and Modern Salon, took place in Los Angeles
        November 4-6. Salon Digital Summit kicked off with over
        300 attendees and major sponsors including OPI and CND.
        The event consisted of 25 segments meant to help beauty
        professionals excel in the digital space. Panels consisting
        of speakers from some of the most digitally savvy
        brands answered questions and prepared presentations          audience; OPI North America education manager
        to inspire and engage. Sunday and Monday night ended          Sigourney Nunez, who talked about live streaming; and
        with industry parties that featured photo opportunities,      The Nailscape’s Ashley Gregory, who talked about the
        networking, food, drinks, and other unique experiences.       power of branding. All three then took questions from the
          NAILS Magazine hosted a breakout session on                 audience as part of a panel moderated by NAILS executive
        November 5 titled Mastering Social Media in the Nail          editor Beth Livesay.
        Market. Speakers included CND brand ambassador
                                                                             See more photos from the event at
        Winnie Huang, who discussed how to engage a digital
                                                                             www.salondigitalsummit.com.




         NAILS 35th
         Anniversary                                                              Bundle Monster Is
         Flashback:                                                               Now Maniology
         2014                                   Ryoko Garcia                      Nail art company Bundle Monster has
                                                                                  rebranded and is now called Maniology.
         After a grueling four-part finale that ended with a live                 When the company began in 2009, it sold
         “quick fire” challenge at ISSE Long Beach, Ryoko Garcia                  electronic accessories in bundles — hence
         was crowned winner of NAILS’ inaugural Next Top Nail                     the name. But since launching its first nail
         Artist competition. Now in its sixth season, the reality                 stamping collection in 2010, the company
         show-inspired competition pits contestants against                       began shifting its focus and expanding its
         one another in a battle for the title. Weekly challenges                 line of nail art products. “It became clear
         determine who moves on and who will be “packing up                       that the name Bundle Monster was limiting
         their paintbrushes” at the end of every week. “Competition               and no longer spoke to who we are,”
         pushes you to think outside of the box and also to work                  says co-founder Carol Wu. The company
         toward perfecting your craft,” said Garcia, who described                selected Maniology to “speak our mission
         her win as “the biggest achievement in my life so far.”                  and better align us for our future,” she says.

                To get caught up on this year’s contest, go to
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         ‫هآ‬ ‫ﺎ‬‫زﺷﮕ‬  ‫ﻮ‬‫آﻣ‬
                                                                                         For more information, go to
       www.nailsmag.com/nexttopnailartist/2018/.                                         www.maniology.com.
www.




       deter land. com
       14 NAILS MAGAZINE |       JANUARY 2019 | www.nailsmag.com
Try Morgan Taylor
                                                                                                       ®



                                                                                today and see what
                                                                                 everyone’s raving
                                                                                      about!



                                                                                    BEST NAIL
                                                                                    LACQUER
                                                                                    5 YEARS IN A ROW
                                                                                       Launchpad
©2019 Nail Alliance, LLC-Morgan Taylor HM-10108




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                                         Color Shown: Something To Blog About
                                         MORGANTAYLORLACQUER.COM
NAILS FILE



       8 Ways to Get Your
       Post-Holiday Mojo Back
       The beginning of the year can be a slow time as holiday parties are in the
       rearview mirror and the credit card bills start to arrive. It’s not uncommon
       for nail techs to feel letdown as the adrenaline from the holiday season fades
       (along with the sugar high) and life goes back to the same old same old. Below
       you’ll find eight tips to help you feel reinvigorated and excited about the
       coming year.
                                                                                                                N
       1. Make sure you treat yourself to a little pampering                                             e Lunar ew Ye
          — self-care will help you feel revitalized. Why                                              th              ar




                                                                                                  te




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          not try swapping services with another beauty




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                                                                                                                              ith
          professional, perhaps trading a nail service for a




                                                                                           Cele




                                                                                                                                  u
          massage or a spa service?




                                                                                                                                s!
                     2. Use the time to plan ahead.
                         Get a nice new diary for the year
                         and plan out an annual social media
                            and promotions calendar. How about a twofer deal for
                             Valentine’s Day or free pink ribbon nail art for breast                     Year of the Pig
                            cancer awareness month? You might create some content                             2019
                         now that you can post on social media later.
       3. Pick up a new skill or technique. You could enroll in an
          in-person class or learn online. Try perfecting a new                           Celebrate the
          nail art skill you haven’t mastered, like candy balls
          or one-stroke, or go for something totally different                            Lunar New Year
          that could help you in the salon, like photography,
          interior design, or stress management.                                          and Win
                      4. Refresh your workstation — or the entire salon. Add a
                                                                                          Show us your Lunar New Year (Tet) nail
                         fresh coat of paint or some wallpaper, update your chairs, get
                                                                                          art in celebration of the Year of the Pig
                         some new fun cushions, add a pop of color with some potted
                                                                                          and the arrival of spring. As part of our
                         plants or bright accessories, and have fun making some new
                                                                                          Tet 2019 Nail Art Contest, NAILS and
                         nail tips to mount and display.
                                                                                          our sister publication VietSALON are
       5. Invent enticing seasonal service recipes to add to
                                                                                          looking for nail art depicting what the
          your menu. Think about floral scents for spring or a
                                                                                          Lunar New Year means to you. The first
          cooling citrus pedicure bath for summer. Pumpkin
                                                                                          500 entrants will receive a Venus liner
          spice scents are perfect for fall, and winter calls
                                                                                          brush. Twenty finalists will receive a Blue
          for warming touches, like hot beverages and
                                                                                          Harmony Dipping Powder Collection
          heated mitts.
                                                                                          Kit, and one lucky winner will receive a
                 6. Jump on social media and YouTube.
                                                                                          complete Venus Nano Gel kit valued
                    Check out what your favorite nail artists are
                                                                                          at $1,669.
                     up to or find some new ones. This is a great way to catch up on
                                                                                             For complete entry information, go to
                       trends, as well as get ideas to use on your own clients.
                                                                                          www.nailsmag.com/tet19contest. The
                         7. Organize and declutter the salon. Throw out old
                                                                                          deadline to enter is January 14, 2019.
                            magazines, remove items you never use that take up space,
                            and rearrange your supplies for maximum efficiency. You
                            can even try selling or swapping items you no longer use
                            with local techs.
                           8. Once you’ve tidied and made some space, go
                              shopping! Get some fun new items for your nail table or
                              some new art supplies. Sometimes the best inspiration
                              comes in the form of glitter and brushes.
                                              — Victoria Thorp (www.onemorecoat.com)
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       ‫ا‬‫ر‬
        ‫هآ‬‫ﺎ‬
          ‫زﺷﮕ‬
            ‫ﻮ‬‫آﻣ‬
                                                          ILLUSTR ATIONS QUINN PARISI
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       deter land. com
       16 NAILS MAGAZINE |        JANUARY 2019 | www.nailsmag.com
Escape in style with the...




                                                                                               COLOUR COLLECTION

                                                                                         A transformative palette of soft shimmers,
                                                                                   cool cremes and icy metallics that will guide you on
                                                                                               your celebratory fashion journey.




                                           WIND IN MY HAIR                    ROAD LESS TRAVELED              TRANSFORMATION               TRUE NORTH




                      DREAMVILLE                          BLISSED OUT                              I WONDER                                     EXPLORATEUR
                                                                                                     WHERE




          CUCCIO WANDERLUST™ COLOUR COLLECTION IS AVAILABLE
                         IN LACQUER AND MATCHING SOAK OFF GEL.
         YOU CAN ORDER INDIVIDUALLY, AS SETS OR IN 16PC DISPLAYS.



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            ‫ﻮ‬‫آﻣ‬
                   FACEBOOK.COM/CUCCIOSPA
                   INSTAGRAM @CUCCIOCOLOUR                                               TO PURCHASE YOUR CUCCIO COLOUR: CALL, FAX OR ORDER ONLINE AT:
www.




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              com
         #WANDERLUST                                                    TEL: 661.257.7827 TOLL-FREE: 800.762.6245 FAX: 661.257.5856   cuccio.com
Change the                                                  freebies
                                                                                                       giveaways
        Way You Shake!                                          To enter to win, go to www.nailsmag.com/freebies by January 31.
             PROFESSIONAL
           GEL-POLISH SHAKER
                                         Patented
                                                               Get Fabulous With Morgan Taylor’s
                                                               Marilyn Monroe Collection
                                                               One lucky reader can win a prize
                                                               package from Morgan Taylor’s
                                                               Forever Fabulous Marilyn Monroe
                                                               collection: six colors, a Favorite
                                                               Eight Pack, and a Trio set with
                                                               Marilyn bag. This collection of
                                                               12 classic and vibrant tones was
                                                               inspired by Old Hollywood and
                                                               Marilyn Monroe.




                  QUIRIES
                                                                                                     Use Bio Seaweed
        DEALER ECN ME                                                                                Gel Dual Pack for
            WEL
                                                                                                     Long-Lasting Shine
            $   139                     99
         Includes shipping within the continental U.S.
                                                                                                     Three readers can win Bio Seaweed
                                                                                                     Gel’s top-selling Base and Top Gel
                                                                                                     Polish Dual Pack. Compatible with
                                                                                                     most gel systems, the LED/UV-cured
                                                                                                     top and base coats produce a long-
       • Rotates over 500 RPM (revolutions per minute)
                                                                                                     lasting shine. The no-wipe top coat
       • Automatic 60 seconds per cycle
                                                                                                     cures with no tacky inhibition layer.
       • Smooth and quiet operation
       • 110 - 240 Volts AC
         universal power
       • Simple and safe
         mechanism to secure
         the bottle in place                                   Mia Secret’s Polymia
       • Ergonomic and space saving design
       • Zinc die-cast for maximum stability
                                                               Is Strong, Yet Light
                                                               Five readers can win Mia Secret’s
       • Works with most bottle shapes, brands or types
                                                               Polymia in Clear, White, and True Pink,
       • Reduces time taken to complete mani-pedis
                                                               along with a pusher/spatula and gel
       • Eliminates shrinkage and streaking
         due to poor mixing                                    brush. This odorless nail enhancement
       By rotating in a side to side and up and down           product can be applied over natural
       motion, ProShaker produces an even consistency          nails or can be used to sculpt nails with
       of the gel without introducing bubbles                  tips or forms.

                                Still Available

                                                                     Congratulations to last month’s winners
                                                               Three readers received 12 NANO colored gels, Base Gel, Top Gel, and a
                                                               Slice brush from Venus Beauty System; 20 readers received the Volcano
                                                               Spa from La Palm; and one reader received a full scholarship for Nailcare
‫ﻨﺪ‬
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  ‫ﺗ‬www.proshaker.com
   ‫ﺮید‬
     ‫ﯾﺸﮕ‬‫ا‬
        ‫ر‬‫هآ‬‫ﺎ‬
           ‫زﺷﮕ‬‫ﻮ‬‫آﻣ‬                                                 Academy’s Advanced Nail Technician (ANT) Certification Program.
www.




       deter land. com
       18 NAILS MAGAZINE |                  JANUARY 2019 | www.nailsmag.com
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       ‫ا‬‫ر‬
        ‫هآ‬‫ﺎ‬
          ‫زﺷﮕ‬
            ‫ﻮ‬‫آﻣ‬
‫‪www.‬‬




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ON THE ROAD


                     Prose
                          Phoenix
                      @proseboutiques

                    www.myprose.com


   Founded in late 2017, Prose is a boutique
    nail experience with a focus on overall
            health and well-being.
                                                                  The center of the room showcases the nail bar, which features built-in
        BY SARAH WAITE CONTRIBUTING EDITOR                        ventilation to help keep the space smelling fresh and clean.




Clients can choose from a wide
range of CND Vinylux and Shellac                                                                       With its focus on health and
shades, as well as Deborah                                                                             beauty, guests at Prose feel
Lippmann polishes.                                                                                     pampered and refreshed.




                                                                                                        Upon entering, each guest is
                                                                                                        greeted and offered refreshments,
I chose CND Vinylux in Splash         My nail tech, Alyssa Birdsong (left), was extremely attentive and including a signature (and
of Teal for my pedicure.              friendly — we even discovered we went to the same nail school! delicious!) herbal tea.




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            ‫ﻮ‬‫آﻣ‬
The pedicure stations feature comfy chairs with built-in phone       All non-disposable implements are put through a sonic cleanser
chargers and screens playing relaxing scenes.                        to remove debris, then sterilized in an autoclave.
www.




       deter land. com
       20 NAILS MAGAZINE |      JANUARY 2019 | www.nailsmag.com
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            ‫ﻮ‬‫آﻣ‬
‫‪www.‬‬




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TECHNIQUE
          Geometric
          Glitter
          Nail tech Megan Gollop of Portugal Cove,
          Newfoundland, Canada, created this nail
          design with geometric elements, glitter,
          and mosaic pigment.




            1
            Paint in Light Elegance Hold
                                                     2
                                                     Use Light Elegance ButterCream
                                                                                               2
                                                                                               3
                                                                                               Apply Swarovski crystals using
            Me Closer. Apply Ugly Duckling           in Just White to apply lines.             Schtick It by Ugly Duckling.
            matte top coat.




  1. Paint Light Elegance      1. Paint in Light Elegance           1. Paint Light Elegance             1. Paint Light Elegance
     Hold Me Closer.              Tiny Diamond.                        Hold Me Closer.                     Hold Me Closer.
  2. Apply Ugly Duckling                                            2. Apply Ugly Duckling              2. Apply Ugly Duckling
     matte top coat.                                                   matte top coat.                     matte top coat.
  3. Apply Swarovski                                                3. Apply Swarovski                  3. Add Tiny Diamond
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                 ‫ر‬‫هآ‬ ‫ﺎ‬‫زﺷﮕ‬
     crystals using Schtick
                            ‫ﻮ‬
                            ‫آﻣ‬                                         crystals using Schtick It           glitter in an ombre.
     It by Ugly Duckling.                                              by Ugly Duckling.
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        deter land. com
        22 NAILS MAGAZINE |     JANUARY 2019 | www.nailsmag.com
NEW!



         How to Apply and Remove                                                               LED/ UV Nail Lamp
         CND Shellac Luxe
         1. Apply the color. Shake the bottle vigorously to blend. Seal the free edge
            and apply an extremely thin, translucent layer of CND Shellac Luxe to all five
            nails. Cure for one minute in the CND LED Lamp. Seal the free edge and
            apply a second thin layer of color for coverage and cure for one minute.
         2. Apply the top coat. Shake to blend. Seal the free edge and apply a layer
            of CND Shellac Luxe Top Coat to all five nails. Cure for one minute in the
            CND LED Lamp. Remove the top film with a plastic-backed, lint-free pad
            saturated with 99% isopropyl alcohol. Condition nails with SolarOil Nail &
            Cuticle Care.
         3. Remove in 60 seconds. When you’re ready to remove Shellac Luxe,
            thoroughly saturate the cotton pad of the CND Foil Remover Wraps with
            Offly Fast. Starting with the pinky finger, place the pad on the nail and          36 Watts • 5 Finger Cure
            tightly wrap all 10 fingers. Set a timer for 60 seconds. Firmly press on the
            top of each nail, massage and twist the wrap from the nail while encasing         Cures UV & LED Products!
            the product within the wrap. Gently remove any remaining product with an           The Dual Cure Lamp technology
            orangewood stick. Remove residue using a plastic-backed, lint-free pad or             lets you choose between a
            a stiff manicure brush moistened with Offly Fast.                                   UV or LED cure. So you can still
            For more information, visit www.cnd.com.                                            use the UV and LED products
                                                                                                 you love, without purchasing
                                                                                                         multiple lamps!
                                                                                                   Over $64 in Products
         EzFlow
         Introduces
                                                                                                Just $119.95
         TruLAQ to
         Match
         Dip and Gel
         Colors
    EzFlow has introduced TruLAQ, an extended-wear lacquer that matches the
    brand’s newly repackaged TruGEL gel-polish and TruDIP shades. Available
    in 24 shades, TruLAQ is perfect for gel touch-ups, achieving a matching
    pedicure, or for clients who love TruGEL shades but prefer lacquer. The
    three-step system includes a calcium- and vitamin E-enriched base coat
    that primes and protects natural nails to promote adhesion and prevent
    staining; quick-drying, richly pigmented lacquer that lasts twice as long as
    regular polish; and gel-effect top coat providing durable, high shine with no
    aggressive removal process. Each TruLAQ shade is available as a set with its
    corresponding TruGEL polish. Lacquer and gel base and top coats are also                      For more information visit
                                                                                                   us at nsinails.com or
‫ﻨﺪ‬
 ‫ﻟ‬‫ﺮ‬
  ‫ﺗ‬‫ید‬For
       ‫ﺮ‬‫ﯾﺸﮕ‬   ‫ا‬‫ر‬‫هآ‬ ‫ﺎ‬‫زﺷﮕ‬  ‫ﻮ‬ ‫آﻣ‬
    available in duo packs.
                                                                                                     call 1.800.354.6741
           more information, visit www.ezflow.com.
 www.




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               com                                                      www.nailsmag.com | JANUARY 2019 | NAILS MAGAZINE       23
TECHNIQUE | demo




         Orly
         Builder In A Bottle
         Orly’s new GelFX Builder In A Bottle is a soak-off sculpting gel
         for nail extensions. It applies like a soft gel, wears like a hard
         gel, and soaks off when you’re ready to remove it.


               For more information, visit www.orlybeauty.com.




1
Prep and cleanse the nails
                                       2
                                       Apply Builder In A Bottle
                                                                              3
                                                                              Apply a thin layer of GelFX
                                                                                                             4
                                                                                                             Float a bead of Builder
for a dry manicure. Remove             onto one third of the nail             Builder In A Bottle onto the   In A Bottle down the
shine from the nails. Apply            plate, just above the free             entire nail surface, making    center of the nail to
GelFX Primer to the entire             edge, and flash cure for               sure to reinforce the          create an apex. Flash
nail. Apply GelFX Perfect              10 seconds.                            sidewalls. Do not cure.        cure for 10 seconds.
Fit Nail Forms.




5                                      6                                      7                              8
Repeat on all nails and                Remove the nail forms                  File, shape, and buff.         Apply your desired GelFX
cure for 30 seconds.                   and cleanse the nails                  Cleanse the nails thoroughly   nail color and GelFX top
                                       with alcohol.                          to remove debris.              coat and cure each layer
‫ﻨﺪ‬
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        ‫هآ‬‫ﺎ‬
          ‫زﺷﮕ‬
            ‫ﻮ‬‫آﻣ‬                                                                                              for 30 seconds. Cleanse
                                                                                                             nails with alcohol. Finish by
www.




                                                                                                             applying GelFX Cuticle Oil.
       deter land. com
       24 NAILS MAGAZINE |          JANUARY 2019 | www.nailsmag.com
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       ‫ا‬‫ر‬
        ‫هآ‬‫ﺎ‬
          ‫زﺷﮕ‬
            ‫ﻮ‬‫آﻣ‬
‫‪www.‬‬




       ‫‪det‬‬
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STYLE


                                                                                                            @thenailistaproject
                                                                                                                 via Instagram




                                                          @home_of_deva via Instagram             @customtnails1 via Instagram




           Yellow Is Gen-Z’s
           Go-To Color
           Millennial Pink is on its way out. The new color that is attracting
           younger clients is being referred to as Gen-Z Yellow. Yellow is typically
           not an easy color to pull off depending on skin tone, and for it to really
           pop on nails, it usually has to be layered over a coat of white. However,
           you may want to stock up on yellow glitters, lacquers, gels, and acrylics,
           as all the popular lifestyle publications seem to agree that yellow is
           on the rise and is appealing to the younger generation (those born
           between 1995 and 2010). Elle, Vanity Fair, Vogue, and Cosmopolitan
           all point to street style stars, young celebrities, influencers, and
           fast-fashion as paving the way for yellow to make its way into the                       Credit: Image via Instagram
           mainstream. Shades of Gen-Z Yellow can range from butter to pastel to
                                                                                        Kim Kardashian kicked off the trend by
           bright neon.
                                                                                        sporting Orly Glowstick on her toes.


                 See more yellow nail art at www.nailsmag.com/yellowmanis.
‫ﻨﺪ‬
 ‫ﻟ‬‫ﺮ‬
  ‫ﺗ‬‫ﺮید‬
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       ‫ا‬‫ر‬
        ‫هآ‬‫ﺎ‬
          ‫زﺷﮕ‬
            ‫ﻮ‬‫آﻣ‬
www.




       deter land. com
       26 NAILS MAGAZINE |      JANUARY 2019 | www.nailsmag.com
Trend Watch




                                                                                        S
                                                                                 ON
                                                                             M ARKRCO
                                                                                              CRYSTAL
                                                                                             ENCRUSTED




                                                                             M /A –
                                                                                 .C O
                                                                                        CK
                                                                                               O
                                                                                            STI
                                                                                                   Cover nails in crystal for
                                                                                                      full-on sparkle.




                                                                                                                Hemi Park
                                                                                                              Cupertino, Calif.
                                                                                                            @sugarplumfairyfingers




                                                                                   Erin Pardue
        Essie Gel Couture                                                    Nailz & Co., Cotati, Calif.

        Hits the Red Carpet                                                        @nailarterin44


        January is the beginning of awards season. Since Essie
        is known for adorning celebrity nails throughout the
        red carpet season, the Scarlet Starlet Reds collection
        contains three new reds and three classics that will
        make clients feel like a movie star. Extending the Gel
        Couture line are shades such as Scarlet Starlet (new),
        Paint the Gown Red (new), Lady in Red (new), Rock
        the Runway, Bubbles Only, and Spiked With Style.


              For more information, visit www.essie.com.                                                         Tina Zavala
                                                                                                         Hair’s Angels, Louisville, Ky.
                                                                                                                @popstar_nails72




‫ﻨﺪ‬
 ‫ﻟ‬‫ﺮ‬
  ‫ﺗ‬‫ﺮید‬
     ‫ﯾﺸﮕ‬
       ‫ا‬‫ر‬
        ‫هآ‬‫ﺎ‬
          ‫زﺷﮕ‬
            ‫ﻮ‬‫آﻣ‬
www.




       det
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              com                                                www.nailsmag.com | JANUARY 2019 | NAILS MAGAZINE                         27
STYLE | nail art studio
                                                                                 Blues and Bling
                                                                                 1. Paint strips of light blue, white, mint green,
                                                                                    and royal blue gel-polish and blend them
                                                                                    together to create an ombre effect. Cure.
                                                                                    Polish the nail with a non-tacky clear top coat
                                                                                    and cure again. Apply an aurora chrome finish.
                                                                                 2. Use a lining brush and black gel paint to draw
                                                                                    different shapes and outlines. Cure. Use a
                                                                                    detailing/lining brush and white gel paint to fill
                                                                                    in some of the spaces. Cure.
                                                                                 3. Add more detail to the nails using black
                                                                                    gel paint and a detailing brush and dotter.
                                                                                    Retouch any faint black lines. Cure.
                                                                                 4. Apply clear gel to the nails and add
                                                                                    embellishments with Swarovski crystals and
                                                                                    gold caviar beads. Cure. Add more gel around
                                   Shekeda Walker, Cleveland                        the embellishments to secure the look. Cure.
                                                                                    Polish the nail with a non-tacky gel top coat
                                         @NailsbyKeda
                                                                                    and cure.




                                                                                 Golden Snowflake
                                                                                 1. Polish the nail with a blue cat-eye gel-
                                                                                    polish. Cure.
                                                                                 2. Press a gold and blue glitter mix into
                                                                                    the tacky layer, apply a tack-free top
                                                                                    coat, and cure.
                                                                                 3. Stamp a snowflake with Wildflower’s
                                                                                    Stamping Gel, then press a fine gold
                                                                                    glitter into the design. Lightly dust off
                                                                                    extra glitter.
                                                                                 4. Float a top coat over the entire nail. Set
                     Becky Bunnell, Nailed by Becky, St. George, Utah
                                                                                    a stone in the center of the snowflake
                                 @nailedbybeckybunnell                              and cure.




                                                                                 Stiletto Snowfall
                                                                                 1. Blend dark blue (OPI Danny & Sandy 4 Ever),
                                                                                    lighter blue (OPI Less Is Norse), and gray
                                                                                    (Riya’s #102) gel-polish to make an ombre
                                                                                    effect. Cure.
                                                                                 2. Use a small brush to draw dripping snow and
                                                                                    some snowflakes in white gel paint and cure.
                                                                                 3. Use a dotting tool to create snow in white gel
                                                                                    paint and cure.
                                                                                 4. Use jewelry gel to decorate with your favorite
                                                                                    stones and add a silver line on the dripping
                                   Nini Le, Syracuse, N.Y.                          snow. Cure. Apply matte top coat and cure.
                                        @Ninisfabnails




                                                                                       For more nail art step-by-steps, visit
Want to see your nail art how-to here?                                                 www.nailsmag.com/nailartstudio.
Mail your tips (one for each step) and instructions to Nail Art Studio, NAILS
Magazine, 3520 Challenger St., Torrance, CA 90503. Make sure to include your    When mailing us tips for Nail Art Studio, please mail them in a
‫ﺪ‬‫ﻨ‬‫ﻟ‬
  ‫ﺮ‬ ‫ﺗ‬
name,‫د‬ ‫ﺮی‬
      salon ‫ﮕ‬ ‫ﯾﺸ‬
             name‫ا‬‫ر‬‫آ‬applicable),
                   (if ‫ه‬
                       ‫ﺎ‬‫زﺷﮕ‬ ‫ﻮ‬ ‫آﻣ‬ city, state, and contact information.          padded envelope or box to keep the nail tips fully intact in transit.
 www.




        deter land. com
        28 NAILS MAGAZINE |      JANUARY 2019 | www.nailsmag.com
‫ﻨﺪ‬
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       ‫ا‬‫ر‬
        ‫هآ‬‫ﺎ‬
          ‫زﺷﮕ‬
            ‫ﻮ‬‫آﻣ‬
‫‪www.‬‬




       ‫‪det‬‬
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              ‫‪com‬‬
BUSINESS




              Hire a Celebrity Influencer for
              Your Beauty Business
      More and more, traditional marketing efforts are being eclipsed by social media marketing — especially
      the use of influencers and brand ambassadors to draw attention to a product or brand. “Instagram
      influencers are everywhere, and they are a huge industry,” says Stephanie Mitchell, the owner of
      Sunnystorm Marketing (www.sunnystorm.marketing). “It’s no wonder that so many salons want to know
      how they can use local influencers to brand themselves in their city and make waves on Instagram.”
         Below are Mitchell’s tips for salon owners who want to try using influencers to grow their business and
      online presence:
         1. Do your research about any potential influencer who approaches you or that you’d like to work with.
            Make sure that their Instagram followers are legitimate, and try to find other campaigns they’ve done
            with other local businesses. Then, do some research by speaking with those businesses to learn what
            it was like to work with the influencer.
         2. Make sure this person matches up with your ideal clientele. Choose someone who has the same values,
            style, and overall “ethos” you do, as well as a platform that you are happy to associate with your salon.
            Also ensure that the influencer is well connected with your ideal clientele in person and online.
         3. Be skeptical of influencers who promote their services to all business. Be wary of someone who is
            willing to reach out to any and all businesses just for some quick cash. You want to make sure they
            legitimately love your business and are not strictly money-minded.
         Of course, you can start small by offering free or discounted services to a local VIP with a large
      social media following in exchange for exposure on her platforms. “If you find the right person who
      fits perfectly into your business, it’s worth the investment,” Mitchell says.
‫ﻨﺪ‬
 ‫ﻟ‬‫ﺮ‬
  ‫ﺗ‬‫ﺮید‬
     ‫ﯾﺸﮕ‬   ‫ا‬
           ‫ر‬
         Find‫آ‬more
               ‫ه‬‫ﺎ‬ ‫ﺷﮕ‬ of‫ز‬
                       ‫ﻮ‬ ‫ آﻣ‬marketing ideas at www.nailsmag.com/10marketingideas.
                        Mitchell’s
 www.




        deter land. com
        30 NAILS MAGAZINE |   JANUARY 2019 | www.nailsmag.com                                           ISTOCK.COM/PESHKOVA
Proper Pricing:
                                                      Do the Math
                                                      and Don’t
                                                      Discount                                              ISTOCK.COM/PESHKOVA


                                                      “Pricing is one of the single most important business decisions you will
                                                      ever make as a salon professional,” says barber and beauty industry
                                                      educator Ivan Zoot, aka Clipper Guy (www.clipperguy.com). Price smart
                                                      from the start, he says, by understanding your cost of delivering each
                                                      service. Here are Zoot’s top three tips for effective pricing.
                                                        1. Do the math. Calculate the real cost of delivering a particular
                                                           service. Do the math on the profit you need per service to achieve
                                                           business goals and levels of profitability. This data will dictate the
                                                           minimum price for your business model to work.
                                                        2. Charge full price or give it away for free. Calculate a fair price
                                                           for each service and stick to it. Or give the service away for free.
                                                           A $50 pedicure is a $50 pedicure. A $50 pedicure with a 50% off
                                                           coupon is not a $50 pedicure, it is a $25 pedicure. A $50 pedicure
                                                           given away for free is still a $50 pedicure in the eyes of
                                                           a consumer. Maintain price integrity and perceived value.
                                                        3. Catch a Lyft. Take a page from ride share services
                                                           and implement demand-based surge pricing. Charge 10% or 20%
                                                           more for Saturdays, Thursday evenings, or whatever are your
        Salonch: A New                                     overbooked peak times. This is not a discount during the other
                                                           hours. It’s a demand-based surge.
        App to Ease
        Recruitment Woes
        Salonch streamlines the job search process    Novel
        by matching beauty professionals with
        career openings in their area, while          Facebook
        allowing salons and spas to promote their
        business opportunities to the beauty
                                                      Promotion
        pros they want to target. “In an industry
        known for its high turnover rate, it’s
                                                      Rewards
        imperative that salon owners attract the      Followers
        right staff for their business structure
        and team culture,” says industry veteran      With
        Kerrie Brandau, who co-founded the app
        with her husband George. Job seekers can      Starbucks
        learn detailed information about each
                                                      “We’re always looking for inexpensive ways to be the ‘purple cow’ in
        of the salons in their search and contact
                                                      our area — a business that goes above and beyond and gives you a
        owners right on the app. “The app allows
                                                      little something you can’t find elsewhere,” says Sue Burkholder, owner
        beauty professionals to make informed
                                                      of Ephrata, Pa.-based Salon Art-Tiff. And they succeeded with a clever
        decisions, saving time, energy and
                                                      promotion that allowed their Facebook followers to make use of a
        hassle,” says Brandau.
                                                      Starbucks gift card they posted online. “We loaded $100 on the card
           Salonch is free for applicants. Business
                                                      and posted it to Facebook — the bar code could be scanned right off
        owners can take advantage of a free
                                                      the Facebook feed,” she explains. The offer came with the restriction
        six-month trial before paying a monthly
                                                      that each follower could use it for one small beverage. The salon was
        subscription fee.
                                                      able to track where the drinks were purchased and posted updates as
                                                      the balance got lower. “It’s a small way for us to give back and get our
              For more information, visit             name out there for a minimal cost,” she says.
‫ﻨﺪ‬
 ‫ﻟ‬‫ﺮ‬
  ‫ﺗ‬‫ﺮید‬
     ‫ﯾﺸﮕ‬ ‫ا‬
         ‫ر‬‫هآ‬‫ﺎ‬‫زﺷﮕ‬ ‫ﻮ‬ ‫آﻣ‬
       www.salonch.com.                                  This story first appeared in Salon Today.
www.




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              com                                               www.nailsmag.com | JANUARY 2019 | NAILS MAGAZINE              31
BUSINESS | crowdsourcing




                                       This month we asked nail techs:
                                        What are your nail-related
                                          New Year’s resolutions?


                  Open my own                              Keep working on my
                                                                                                        Try new brands of
                  training center. It’s                    health and get back
                                                                                                        nail products!
                  actually happening!                      into competitions.
                                                                                                             Danielle Shaffer
                       Lyndsey Slater                             @staceyluffy
                                                                                                                Via Facebook
                         Via Facebook                            Via Instagram




                  Trademark my                                                                           Bring my A++
                  business name.                                                                         game!
                      Celeste Nicole                                                                      @stoneridgesalon
                       Via Facebook                                                                           Via Instagram




                  Get my nail tech
                                                                                                         Stop being so hard
                  license.
                                                                                                         on myself.
                       @elevatornails
                                                                                                               @kerryrees_
                        Via Instagram
                                                                                                                    nailartist




                  Work more with my                        Get a new subscription                       Become a licensed
                  talents.                                 for NAILS.                                   nail tech.
                      @curvaceous78                                   @elsbeth211                             @nailbrat21225
                       Via Instagram                                Via Instagram                              Via Instagram



                                                                                  Find a better work/life balance.
                              Become a non-smoker!
                                                                                          @the_nail_lady_60504
                                  @manimandikostelli
                                                                                                  Via Instagram
                                        Via Instagram




                                                    NEXT QUESTION:
                          How do you deal with negative comments on your social media accounts?
                    [Answers will be printed in the April 2019 issue.] Share your opinion on the topic by emailing
                    your response by January 15 to Beth.Livesay@bobit.com. Please include your name, salon,
                                 city and state, and a high-resolution headshot with your response.
‫ﻨﺪ‬
 ‫ﻟ‬‫ﺮ‬
  ‫ﺗ‬‫ﺮید‬
     ‫ﯾﺸﮕ‬
       ‫ا‬‫ر‬
        ‫هآ‬‫ﺎ‬
          ‫زﺷﮕ‬
            ‫ﻮ‬‫آﻣ‬
www.




       deter land. com
       32 NAILS MAGAZINE |    JANUARY 2019 | www.nailsmag.com
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        6 Things
        You Should
        Know About
        Dust Masks
        “Don’t waste your money on flimsy, doctor-style masks;          3. The best masks have a respirator valve over the
        they won’t provide much protection and will only fool              mouth area that allows air to exit the mask, but blocks
        you into thinking you’re protected from dust,” says                air from flowing back to your mouth or nose. This
        industry scientist Doug Schoon, who stresses that even             helps prevent your eyewear or safety glasses from
        good-quality dust masks defend against dust only and               becoming foggy from the moisture in your breath.
        provide little to no protection from vapors.                    4. These types of dust masks are disposable and should
          So what should you look for when selecting a dust                be discarded after eight hours or one full day of use.
        mask? Schoon offers some advice:                                5. It’s important to ensure the mask fits correctly,
          1. Dust masks are rated by their efficiency at removing          which means snugly with no open gaps between the
             dust particles found in your breathing zone and               mask and face. To help achieve this, some masks
             preventing them from being inhaled. (Your                     have built-in, flexible metal nose bands that allow
             breathing zone is an invisible sphere in front of             you to shape the mask around the nose area so that it
             your mouth that’s just about the size of an inflatable        fits better.
             beach ball.)                                               6. Some disposable masks contain a thin layer of
          2. In the U.S. and Canada, a good-quality dust mask              activated carbon, which can help to reduce the
             carrying the rating of N95 will provide great                 intensity of odors, but do not protect from inhalation
             protection by removing 95% of all particles, even             of vapors. Masks can’t replace proper ventilation
             when these particles are less than 250 times smaller          when it comes to preventing excessive inhalation
             than the diameter of a human hair. N99 masks will             of vapors. Salons still need an adequate flow of
             remove 99% of all particles, but don’t provide that           fresh air. A good-quality source-capture ventilation
             much more protection in a salon setting and can               system can provide tremendous value.
             cost three times as much. (In Europe, the equivalent       Learn more in Face-to-Face with Doug Schoon,
             mask rated is FFP2, which blocks 90% of all dust         available on Amazon, iTunes, Kobo and Nook, or visit
‫ﻨﺪ‬
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  ‫ﺗ‬‫ﺮید‬
     ‫ﯾﺸﮕ‬
       ‫ا‬‫ر‬
        ‫هآ‬‫ﺎ‬
          ‫زﺷﮕ‬
            ‫ﻮ‬‫آﻣ‬
             particles and FFP3 which blocks 99% of particles.)       www.facebook.com/DougSchoonsBrain.
www.




       deter land. com
       34 NAILS MAGAZINE |       JANUARY 2019 | www.nailsmag.com
Q&A
                                                            Q     What makes matte top coat matte and glossy top coat glossy?


                            Sunflower II                    A     It is all about how light travels and what the eye perceives.
                                                                  When light hits a smooth or highly polished surface, the
                              Nail Dust                     surface will appear shiny to the eye because most of the light is
                                                            reflected in a specular direction. That means a large amount of
                             Collector Is                   light is reflected from the surface in an equal amount and at an
                                                            angle that is symmetrical (equal but opposite angle) to the incident
                              Powerful,                     light. The smoother the surface, the higher the amount of specular

                              Yet Quiet                     reflection and therefore the higher the gloss. A top coat that self-
                                                            levels and dries to a smooth surface will have a high gloss.
                                                               A rough surface will have no or just a small amount of specular
       The Sunflower II Nail Dust Collector from            reflection, so as light is scattered in other directions, gloss is
       Aerovex uses powerful suction to draw in             reduced and the eye will see it as dull or matte. To make a top coat
       and capture nail dust with its dual-layered          matte, solid particles such as fine plastic/polymers, talc, or silica
       filter system. The compact, portable unit is         are added to roughen the surface.
       mounted to the nail table with a clamp and              — Dr. Vivian Valenty is president of VB Cosmetics
       should be positioned over the work area to                 (www.vbcosmetics.com) and an organic chemist.
       extract particles as they leave the client’s
       hand. Equipped with a powerful LED light, the
       Sunflower also illuminates the tech’s work area.
       It features a built-in HEPA-quality filter system
       and uses activated carbon technology that                                HAVE A HEALTH QUESTION?
       eliminates chemical odors.                                (about salon safety and sanitation, nail disorders, science, etc.)
          For more information, go to                                   E-mail it to Judy.Lessin@bobit.com and check back
       www.aerovexsystems.com.                                                         here for an expert answer.




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                                                                            Beauty
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       det
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              com                                                www.nailsmag.com | JANUARY 2019 | NAILS MAGAZINE                     35
HEALTH | healthy tech Q & A



                                                           Healthy Tech: Joei Ellis
                                                           Brooklyn, Mich.-based nail tech Joei Ellis realized
                                                           working long hours while sitting was taking a toll on
                                                           her health, so she took steps to ensure she’s able to
                                                           eat well and exercise around her busy schedule.
                                                           Tell us a bit about yourself and your career.
                                                           I am 56 years old. I was a retail manager for many years and got
                                                           into the beauty industry when my last child graduated and went
                                                           into the Marine Corps. I work at a full-service salon and spa and
                                                           am a very busy practitioner.

                                                           What are your health challenges and how have you
                                                           responded to them?
                                                           I sit a lot, which can really take its toll. I work long days, often
                                                           12 or more hours, and have no real break times. I try to offset
                                                           this by starting my day with a short run. It gets me outside,
                                                           clears my head, and helps me to mentally prepare for my day.
                                                           I make easily accessible meals for work, mostly plant-based
                                                           shakes and a few nuts and seeds to sustain me through the day.
                                                           I also incorporate 20 minutes of weight training four nights a
                                                           week. This keeps my body strong and prevents fatigue. I also
                                                           add yoga, kayaking, and paddle boarding when I can.

                                                           What has been your result so far?
                                                           One of my clients started a weight loss group and I joined just
                                                           to support her. I had no idea I weighed as much as I did. I didn’t
                                                           commit to it at first, but I ended up losing 22 pounds over five
                                                           months and won the contest.

                                                           What further goals do you have?
                                                           I have wanted to run a marathon with my three adult sons.
                                                           That is a future goal of mine. No takers as of yet.

                                                           What has been the most difficult aspect of your
                                                           healthy lifestyle?
                                                           Time management is difficult. There are only so many hours
                                                           in the day. With my heavy work schedule, it can be hard to
                                                           fit in activities for my health. Food planning can seem hard
                                                           some days. Nighttime snacking can sneak up on you when you
                                                           are tired.

                                                           What’s your advice for other nail techs who want to
                                                           become healthier?
                                                           Start your day with healthy intentions. Plan ahead for easy
                                                           healthy eating. You’ll be more likely to do it if you’ve already
                                                           planned for it. Make it fun and enjoyable. Our health is our most
                                                           valuable asset. We must invest in ourselves in order to serve
                                                           others. Planning and preparation are keys to success in every
                                                           area of life, and I realize more than ever that positive personal
                                                           habits will always flow into professional ones.
 Are you a healthy nail tech? We want to hear your
‫ﻨﺪ‬
 ‫ﻟ‬‫ﺮ‬‫ﺗ‬‫ﺮید‬
 success ‫ﯾﺸﮕ‬   ‫ا‬‫ر‬
         stories. ‫آ‬‫ه‬‫ﺎ‬‫ﺷﮕ‬
                  Email  ‫ز‬‫ﻮ‬ ‫آﻣ‬
                        editor@nailsmag.com  to find out
 how you can be featured in our Healthy Tech column.
 www.




        deter land. com
        36 NAILS MAGAZINE |   JANUARY 2019 | www.nailsmag.com
‫ﻨﺪ‬
 ‫ﻟ‬‫ﺮ‬
  ‫ﺗ‬‫ﺮید‬
     ‫ﯾﺸﮕ‬
       ‫ا‬‫ر‬
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          ‫زﺷﮕ‬
            ‫ﻮ‬‫آﻣ‬
‫‪www.‬‬




       ‫‪det‬‬
         ‫‪er‬‬‫‪l‬‬
           ‫‪and.‬‬
              ‫‪com‬‬
HEALTH




        A Day in the Life of
        a Nail Expert                                                                                            Stern

        In this month’s column, Dr. Stern discusses her consultations                            Dermatologists treat skin, hair,
                                                                                                 and nails. I am a board-certified
        with patients dealing with retronychia, dysplastic nevus, and                            dermatologist and I specialize in the
        glomus tumors.                                                                           treatment of nail disorders including
                                                                                                 nail infections, inflammatory diseases
        BY DANA STERN MD                                                                         of the nail, cosmetic issues related
                                                                                                 to the nail, cancers of the nail, and
        As a dermatologist specializing in nails, I love the fact that my day is not             sports-related nail injuries. I also
        predictable. I am constantly meeting new patients from all walks of life and I never     perform surgery on the nail including
        know what interesting nail case awaits me when I enter the examination room.             biopsies and excisions.

        Consult #1
        This patient is a 15-year-old female whose chief complaint is issues with her great
        toenails beginning when she was 10. At that time the nails appeared yellow and thick,
        and seemed not to be growing. She also described pain in the area of the proximal
        nail folds. Previous therapies included bleach soaks, Epsom salt soaks, and topical
        antifungals. She also reports being a tap and ballet dancer since the age of 5. On
        physical exam, the bilateral great toenails had a layering of the nail plates. Cuticle
        was notably absent. The nail plates were discolored with blue and yellow areas.
        Assessment: This patient’s diagnosis is retronychia. Retronychia is a relatively
        new term that describes the embedding of the proximal nail plate into the proximal
        nail fold. The cause is theorized to be persistent minor trauma that interrupts
        the continuity between the nail matrix and the nail plate. The nail matrix is the
        anatomical structure that turns into the hard nail plate. The lunula is the distal
        (outermost) portion of the nail matrix. In retronychia, the new nail growing from the
        matrix pushes the old one upward, causing inflammation at the proximal nail fold
        and interrupting the longitudinal growth of the nail.
           Beyond being a cosmetic issue, this phenomenon can result in significant pain
        and inflammation. The treatment is surgical removal of the nail plate, but it is not     In retronychia, the new nail growing
        a guarantee that the nail will grow back normally. In my practice I have observed        from the matrix pushes the old one
        retronychia much more commonly in females and it skews to younger patients.              upward, causing inflammation at the
        Usually there is a history of trauma that may be associated with athletes, dancers,      proximal nail fold and interrupting
        and women who wear high heels.                                                           nail growth.

  Consult #2
  This patient is a 45-year-old female with a history of an abnormal right thumb nail
  for 20 years. The patient described pain at the digit with pressure and/or touching
  the nail, but had no pain at rest or with temperature change. The nail had remained
  stable in appearance, but recently the level of discomfort had increased, prompting
  the patient to seek a medical opinion. She has no history of skin cancer. On
  examination the right thumbnail had a 3-mm red longitudinal band with a distal
  nail plate split. All other fingernails and toenails were normal.
  Assessment: A nail biopsy of the right thumb nail was performed to rule out a
  squamous cell carcinoma (a type of cancer) versus a glomus tumor, and a well-
  defined, encapsulated tumor was removed. Pathology results were consistent with
  a glomus tumor. Glomus tumors are rare soft tissue benign tumors that typically
  present in adults (average ages 20-40 years) as small, blue-to-red growths on the
  extremities, with most cases involving the nail. These tumors are typically painful,
  classically causing sudden pain in response to temperature changes or pressure.
‫ﻨﺪ‬
 ‫ﻟ‬‫ﺮ‬
  ‫ﺗ‬‫ﺮید‬    ‫ﯾﺸﮕ‬
  Treatment   is‫ا‬
                ‫ر‬ ‫هآ‬ ‫ﺎ‬ ‫ﺷﮕ‬removal.
                 surgical  ‫ز‬‫ﻮ‬‫آﻣ‬                                                                  The treatment for a glomus
                                                                                                 tumor — a rare soft tissue benign
 www.




                                                                                                 tumor — is surgical removal.
        deter land. com
        38 NAILS MAGAZINE |       JANUARY 2019 | www.nailsmag.com
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              www.




                            det
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                                and.
                                   com                VISIT US AT: ENTITYBEAUTY.COM   CALL 866.288.4600
HEALTH



        Consult #3
        This patient is a 19-year-old female with nail discoloration
        located on the right third fingernail beginning 14 months
        prior. She reported that the discolored band seemed to
        be getting wider. She has a family history of melanoma.
        She stated there was no trauma to the nail. Examination
        revealed a brown band with darker brown/black bands
        within, some with irregular pigment, at the right third
        fingernail at the central plate. The width of the band
        measured 1mm and there was no surrounding nail fold
        involvement. All other fingernails and toenails were
        within normal limits.
        Assessment: Given the irregular clinical features, coupled
        with the fact that the band seemed to be changing and
        the patient’s positive family history of melanoma, a nail
        biopsy was advised to rule out a dysplastic nevus (mole
        with atypical features that could progress to melanoma)              A biopsy of this nail revealed a mole with irregular
        versus an early melanoma. Biopsy of this patient showed a            features. It was removed due to the risk of
        mole with irregular features. Given the risk of progression          progression to melanoma.
        to melanoma, a second procedure was scheduled to excise
        [remove] the entire band with a margin of normal matrix.
          Melanoma is a type of cancer that most people tend to
        associate with the skin. This type of cancer can be
        extremely dangerous as it can metastasize and spread to




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       40 NAILS MAGAZINE |      JANUARY 2019 | www.nailsmag.com
HEALTH



        other parts of the body. Many don’t realize that melanoma     Here are some helpful tips and signs to look for:
        can be found in the nails as well. If caught early, nail       • Single brown or black pigmented band on a single nail.
        melanoma is curable. Unfortunately, melanoma in the nail       • The band is dark in color.
        tends to be diagnosed late.                                    • There is brown pigment on the surrounding skin
          Melanoma occurs when the pigment-producing cells in            (around the nail).
        the nail (melanocytes) begin to grow in an uncontrolled        • The thumb, index finger, and great toenail are the most
        fashion. Although melanoma in the nail typically appears         common digits to have melanoma. N
        as a single-pigmented brown or black band, pigmented
        bands are fairly common and usually normal, especially
        in people with darker complexions. The other causes of
        single brown-pigmented bands in the nail are often either
        benign moles or simply the pigment cells “waking up” and
        producing pigment, much like when a new freckle appears                 Read previous “Day in the Life” articles
        in the skin. Any trauma to the cuticle area — repeated                  by Dr. Stern at www.nailsmag.com/
        cuticle pushing, cutting, picking, or biting — can also                 danastern.
        result in stimulation of these pigment-producing cells
        because the cuticle lies directly over the area where the               You can contact Dr. Stern with your
        melanocytes reside.                                                     questions via Facebook (Facebook.com/
          Because early melanomas are very difficult to                         DrDanaBeauty).
        distinguish from benign pigmented bands, it is imperative               Twitter (@DrDanaBeauty)
        to see a dermatologist for a thorough exam and
        consultation if you or your client spot one.                            Visit her at www.drdanastern.com
                                                                                and www.drdanabeauty.com.




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        ‫هآ‬‫ﺎ‬
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              com                                                   www.nailsmag.com | JANUARY 2019 | NAILS MAGAZINE           41
COVER TECH CONTES T 2018:

         BOLD TRADITIONS
          Nail tech Albee Chen’s boldly colored twist on Japanese-style art won the top spot this
          year. Darlene Tewitz’s elegant stiletto nail design took the first-runner-up spot, while
          Kryssy Hawkins’s sharp geometric design was the second-runner-up, and KaSundra
          Anderson’s glitzy foil nail look was the third-runner-up. Congratulations to all of our
          finalists, and many thanks to everyone who entered this year’s competition.



                                                                     MEET THE WINNER


                                                                                    THE WINNER:
                                                                                    Albee Chen
                                                                                    City of Industry, Calif.


                                                                  A nail tech for over 10 years, Albee Chen
                                                                  used to run a nail salon, but now works
                                                                  behind the scenes as the R&D director for
                                                                  Aprés Nail, where she works on product
                                                                  testing, education, and tutorial creation.
                                                                  The inspiration for her winning Cover Tech
                                                                  Contest entry came from Japan, where she
                                                                  received her nail education. “I wanted to
                                                                  pay tribute to the place where I learned my
                                                                  foundation and skills as a nail tech,” she
                                                                  explains. “When I saw that the cover would
                                                                  be for January, my immediate thought was of
                                                                  the Lunar New Year (or Chinese New Year).”
                                                                     Chen based her design on traditional
                                                                  Japanese woodblock prints from the Edo
                                                                  period, and chose to use red in her image
                                                                  because it’s considered an auspicious color
                                                                  for the New Year. To create the nails, Chen
                                                                  used Aprés Artisté Art Gel and gel brushes
                                                                  on Gel-X Stiletto Long tips. “Everything was
                                                                  hand-painted, and no stencils, stickers, or
                                                                  stamps were used,” she says. The set took
                                                                  about three hours to create.
                                                                     Chen has a lot of experience creating art on
                                                                  a tiny canvas and says her favorite thing about
                                                                  nail art is its creativity and expressiveness:
                                                                  “There’s no limit to a person’s style nowadays
                                                                  and no rules when it comes to expressing
                                                                  yourself.”

                                                                         You can see more from Chen on
‫ﻨﺪ‬
 ‫ﻟ‬‫ﺮ‬
  ‫ﺗ‬‫ﺮید‬
     ‫ﯾﺸﮕ‬
       ‫ا‬‫ر‬
        ‫هآ‬‫ﺎ‬
          ‫زﺷﮕ‬
            ‫ﻮ‬‫آﻣ‬                                                          Instagram @albeeyehyeh.
www.




       deter land. com
       42 NAILS MAGAZINE |   JANUARY 2019 | www.nailsmag.com
1ST RUNNER UP




                                             Darlene Tewitz
                                         Edmonton, Alberta, Canada


                2ND RUNNER UP                                        3RD RUNNER UP




‫ﻨﺪ‬
 ‫ﻟ‬‫ﺮ‬
  ‫ﺗ‬‫ﺮید‬
     ‫ﯾﺸﮕ‬
       ‫ا‬‫ر‬
        ‫هآ‬‫ﺎ‬
          ‫زﺷﮕ‬
            ‫ﻮ‬‫ﻣ‬ ‫آ‬
              Kryssy Hawkins                                         KaSundra Anderson
                    Clarksville, Tenn.                                  Conyers, Ga.
www.




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         erl
           and.
              com                                   www.nailsmag.com | JANUARY 2019 | NAILS MAGAZINE   43
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