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Circular Textiles Ready to market
Table of contents Fibre to Fibre Pilots P.29
Introduction
to Circular Textiles P.5 Boosting Circularity P.49
ECAP Projects P.13 Facing the Future P.57
4 Table of contents Circular Textiles Ready to market 5
Introduction
to Circular
Textiles
6 Introduction to Circular Textiles Circular Textiles Ready to market 7
Welcome to the European Clothing Action Plan - ECAP.
This EU LIFE funded multi-stakeholder program is
driving resource efficiency across the European
clothing sector to cut carbon, water & waste, and
support a circular economy.
Over the past 3½ years industry leaders have shown
that circular fashion and textiles is possible and
ready to market. Fashion for men, women and
children, workwear and bed linen producers have
proven a wide variety of technical possibilities and
market opportunities. We are at the start of a new
way of thinking and producing, however we have
made a promising start, in which we invite the wider
community and industry to take part.
To enable a healthy and thriving circular fashion
industry, we will share with you our learnings
and insights on topics like sustainable design,
new business models, consumer engagement and
collection & recycling of discarded clothes and textiles.
Next to this we have researched new ways to
incorporate circularity in public procurement practices.
We have seen that a key factor to success is
collaboration across the value chain, from brand
and retailers to garment makers to yarn and fabric
suppliers, from collectors to recyclers. Thanks to all
involved for their enthusiasm and effort, we can show
you some remarkable results in this guide. We hope
you will enjoy reading.
Hanneke op den Brouw
Rijkswaterstaat, Dutch Ministry of Infrastructure and
Watermanagement, on behalf of the ECAP partners
Photo by Sylvie Tittel on Unsplash
Circular Textiles Ready to market 9
What is Circular Raw Material Ex
Retailers & Suppliers:
Fashion & Textiles?
trac Brands: Efficiency &
tio
n Fibre Strategy Processes
Textile Productio
n
Over the past decades we have come to One of the ways forward is expected to come
the realisation that our production and from the concept of a circular economy, with Cl
o
consumption patterns are not sustainable and nature as our teacher. In a circular economy
th
in
create a planet full of waste, loss of biodiversity products are not being wasted easily and
g
lin
gM
cyc
and climate change. The international resources are used again and again, so they Retailers:
an
Re
Recycled
ufa
community agrees that we need to change retain their value in the product chain. High Design for
Fibres
ctur
our ways, which was clearly signalled by the quality, good maintenance, fashionable vintage, Longevity
ing
Climate Agreement of Paris in 2015. extracting fibres for high quality recycling are a Municipalities:
Textile Repair
few examples of a thriving circular economy. e&
-us
Collection Re
The fashion and textiles industry can play a
role as leader in achieving international goals Mimicking natural cycles to live in balance with
towards a healthy and thriving planet. An the planet’s resources, means that circular
Co
ce
exciting task lies ahead of us to transform an economy is a holistic business model.
ll e
rvi
industry that extends across all continents and
c ti
Se
on
or
employs 60 to 75 million people worldwide. It takes into account every step of the value
il
ta
cycle. The European Clothing Action Plan has Re
done experiments and supported interventions Public Procurers:
in different parts of this cycle, which is shown in Consumers & Young Consumers: C o n s u m p ti o n Circular Purchasing
the picture on the next page. Use, Care & Disposal Criteria
10 Introduction to Circular Textiles Circular Textiles Ready to market 11
European Dutch Circular Textiles Valley (DCTV)
In 2017 a group of Dutch industry leaders
formulated a roadmap towards circular textiles
Circular Initiatives as a result of a multi-stakeholder process.
This initiative was supported by trade
association for fashion and textiles ‘Modint’
and government agency ‘Rijkswaterstaat’ as
In the next paragraphs you find some examples of industry wide initiatives part of the Dutch Agreement of sustainable
or partnerships searching for new circular business models in the fashion garments and Textiles. The roadmap was taken
and textiles industry. on board of the transition agenda circular
economy of the Dutch Government.
Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Change A new textiles economy: Under the name DCTV, four regional hubs are
This UN Charter, launched in December 2018 redesigning fashion’s future identified with specific circular innovation focus
and signed by 43 industry leaders, presents Supported by leading industry partners, the areas: Amsterdam (circular brands & business
a vision to achieve net-zero emissions by Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s mission is to models), Enschede (high quality recycling),
2050. It includes a target of 30% reductions accelerate the transition to a circular economy. Arnhem (circular design) and Tilburg (circular
in Green House Gas (GHG) emissions by 2030 Building upon the report presented at workwear). The Roadmap is translated in English
and sets a decarbonization pathway for the the Copenhagen Fashion Summit in 2017. and can be downloaded via the link below.
fashion industry. The charter supports the The participants of the Make Fashion Circular
movement towards a circular business model initiative unite to develop business models that www.afvalcirculair.nl/onderwerpen/helpdesk-
and acknowledges the positive impact this will keep clothes in use, work towards materials afvalbeheer/publicaties/downloads-0/on-the-road-
have towards reducing GHG emissions. A closer that are renewable and safe with solutions that towards/ and www.imvoconvenanten.nl/garments-
textile?sc_lang=en
dialogue and change of consumer behaviours turn used clothes into new clothes. They expect
to reduce environmental impacts and extend the fashion industry to capture US$ 560 billion
useful life of products is part of the statement. currently lost due to the underutilisation of
clothes, incineration and landfill.
www.unfccc.int/climate-action/sectoral-engagement/
global-climate-action-in-fashion/about-the-fashion- www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/our-work/
industry-charter-for-climate-action activities/make-fashion-circular/report
Fashion for Good Sustainable Clothing Action Plan (SCAP)
Initiated by C&A Foundation and a group Not for profit organisation WRAP (Waste and
of industry leaders, the five Goods of this Resource Action Programme) was formed in
innovation platform are: good materials, good 2000 and has ever since initiated a wide variety
economy, good energy, good water and good of programmes and initiatives. The SCAP 2020
lives. The efforts focus on sparking and scaling commitment sees leading organisations from
technologies and business models that have the across the clothing sector working together to
greatest potential to transform the industry. reduce the environmental footprint of clothing
covering 7 action areas. Circular topics such as
www.fashionforgood.com extending useful life of clothes, circular design
and influencing key consumer behaviours are
part of the commitment.
www.wrap.org.uk/content/scap-2020-commitment-
archived#target
12 Introduction to Circular Textiles Circular Textiles Ready to market 13
Personal notes
ECAP
Projects
14 Introduction to Circular Textiles Circular Textiles Ready to market 15
Design for longevity
Design for Longevity is an online platform providing knowledge, tools and
inspiration to empower designers, technologists and product developers to
design more sustainable, longer lasting clothes through changes to design
practices that also support a circular economy.
Created in collaboration with designers and in place for Houdini customers by Swedish
product developers, the platform showcases celebrity Chef Sebastian Thureson.
the importance of their roles in the fashion
sector. It highlights what concrete actions Read more on Designforlongevity.com
they can take to actively change the design www.designforlongevity.com/videos/sportswear-that-
process towards integrating best practices makes-your-garden-grow
and inspiring new innovations.
Kasubika Chola
In fashion, the decisions made during the Kasubika Chola has a strong interest in recycled
design phase have a large impact on the garments, second hand clothing, hand-me-
finished garments and their environmental downs and vintage garments. The recent
impacts. This platform guides industry players graduate from Kingston University School of
on how to make informed decisions in order Art was selected as a talent for the CFDA+
to extend the lifespan of garments. programme. Her sustainable and unisex
graduate collection celebrated her mixed
Inspiration on design cultural heritage, showing off vibrant African
for longevity and circularity fabrics and inspiring pieces made from denim
cast offs, coats and jackets from discarded
Houdini dungarees, and bags from old rice sacks.
Houdini has a strong focus on reducing garment
waste and closing the loop. The brand shows Read more on Designforlongevity.com
that it is possible to create high performance www.designforlongevity.com/slides/kasubika-chola
designs that can be returned to the soil and
actually be beneficial as fertilisers, rather
than polluting the earth with detrimental
components and chemicals.
With the aim to showcase and communicate
this, the brand set up “The Houdini Menu”:
a fine dining menu using vegetables grown
from the soil of their decomposed old
sportswear. Garments were returned to the
soil, and once fertilised this was used to grow
the vegetables for the gourmet meal put
Circular Textiles Ready to market 17
5 Tips for designers
1. Make fibre choices simpler
It is crucial to know the right questions to ask to
ensure the durability, quality and sustainability
of fabrics.
Retailer & brands
It can be difficult to keep track of which
materials are sustainable, and how they are
sustainable. Putting in place a preferred fibre
4. Design for disassembly/ recycling/
biodegradability
sustainable
list – an overview over which sustainable fibres
best suit your brand – enables you to have a
base guide for your material choices.
Using components that can be easily separated
will ease the cyclability of garments, decreasing
the amount of mixed fibres in collections will
fibres strategies
facilitate fibre recycling, and preventing the
2. Choose the right tools for you use of toxic chemicals, dyes and finishes will ECAP activity has involved working with European fashion brands and retailers
There are many tools available that help assess allow for biodegradability without harming the to support the development and implementation of bespoke sustainable fibre
the environmental impact of garments. Pick one environment. strategies with the aim of reducing carbon, water and waste impacts.
and implement it within your team to ensure
alignment throughout the design process. 5. Be transparent
To facilitate and speed up textile sorting and About this action Insights/ learnings
3. Ask the right questions recycling, brands need to be transparent in There are several retailers and brands involved, Several brands have shown an interest in
Textiles are often bought from multiple suppliers terms of material components and compositions. and we have been working with them to being able to assess their fibre footprints and
(Tier 1 suppliers), which in turn have multiple analyse their production data to measure to track progress as they continue to integrate
suppliers of their own (Tier 2 suppliers), etc. www.designforlongevity.com their environmental footprint and create a more sustainable fibres, to support their target
report based on their fibre usage. We have setting and progress reporting.
also worked with them to develop strategies to
lower their environmental impact and provided ECAP is keen to understand from brands and
implementation support. The reports use the retailers what their views are on necessary
ECAP footprint calculator which requires the policy changes and legislation to support their
collation of data on clothing placed on the sustainability efforts, particularly in relation to
market and their fibre mix. fibre sourcing and waste, as part of the case
study collation process.
Companies involved range of sizes of retailers
and brands with 4 based in Germany, 2 in The future
France, Sweden, Netherlands then Italy, Spain Several case studies will be published describing
and the UK. the work undertaken by participants and the
impact that this had on the environmental
Where are we now? footprint of their clothing lines. ECAP will also
Photo by Isabela Kronemberger on Unsplash
Retailer and brands are still in the share the common findings, and practical
implementation phase of their sustainable insight to a wider set of stakeholders in the
strategies. This is planned to continue until the market to help more brands and retailers
summer, at which point another environmental switch to more sustainable fibres. Look out for
footprint report will be done to measure the these in late 2019.
impact of their more sustainable strategies.
The insights and results will be gathered.
18 ECAP Projects Circular Textiles Ready to market 19New Circular
Business MODELS
In November 2017, ASOS began a project in partnership with London Waste
and Recycling Board and QSA Partners to assess the commercial viability
of circular business models.
The Circular Business Models project facts What’s next?
›› After considering a wide range of circular ›› Alongside this project, ASOS was able to
business models including rental and complete a clothing takeback pilot with its
leasing, subscription, incentivised return staff to investigate how a customer recycling
and resale, the project team decided to proposition might work. This research
narrow the focus to a deeper investigation informed how the clothing take-back aspect
of a resale proposition. of a resale proposition would function.
›› ASOS then carried out multiple business ›› ASOS is also undergoing a re-engineering
modelling exercises to determine what of its sales platform to better surface
was needed behind the scenes to make sustainability though the customer shopping
a resale proposition work. experience. This will support the integration
›› These exercises covered price points, of circular propositions in the future.
back-end logistics, and investigating
customer interest in variations on About the company
this proposition. ASOS was founded in 2000 and has become
a top fashion destination for 20-somethings
The results around the world. It has more than 87,000
›› A survey carried out by ASOS for the project ASOS and branded products on site, with
illustrated customers already engage in 5,000 new items added each week. It also offers
resale. For example: fashion-related content through its websites,
- 57% of ASOS customers already buy mobile apps, the ASOS Magazine and its
pre-owned clothes from a range of sites; social media accounts, which have more than
- 27% of ASOS customers already buy 22 million followers. It serves 18.4 million active
ASOS clothing online customers from fulfilment centres in the UK,
- 31% already sell ASOS clothing online. US and Europe, delivering ASOS packages to
›› The project also helped to foster a cross- almost every country in the world.
functional team of colleagues committed to
exploring circular business models in more
Photo by Sylvie Tittel on Unsplash
detail in future.
20 ECAP Projects Circular Textiles Ready to market 21Consumer Engagement
The European Clothing Action Plan wants to positively affect consumers’ buying,
use, care and disposal of clothing by increasing awareness and encouraging
behaviour change. For this purpose, two of our partners, WRAP (Waste and
Resource Action Programme) and LWARB (London Waste and Recycling Board)
partnered up to design and organise a range of activities.
Love your Clothes ›› Italy: We are working with La Fraternita,
a social enterprise organisation in the
By combining the experience and materials development and launch of a digital
from WRAP’s Love Your Clothes campaign and campaign to increase clothing donations.
the results from ECAP’s consumer research in ›› Materials can be found in the resources
European countries (Denmark, Italy, Germany section of our ECAP website
and the Netherlands) we are supporting www.ecap.eu.com
consumer behaviour change in those countries.
EU Clothing Survey
To kickstart activity, ECAP developed campaign
packs which include messaging guidelines As part of the research in ECAP, a EU Clothing
based on European consumer behaviours and Survey was created to gather information around
some supporting campaign materials. These clothing related behaviours across four nations
include editable artwork including posters, (Denmark, Germany, Netherlands and Italy).
flyers infographics and digital content.
Some of the key results:
There are also case studies on various Love ›› Danish households wear their clothing longest
Your Clothes campaigns to give inspiration (average 5 years) compared to Netherlands
on activities that can be run by organisations (4.1 years), and Germany and Italy (3.8 years);
to affect consumer change. The case studies ›› To buy second-hand clothes is most likely in
have accompanying action plans to help Denmark (5%), against 2% elsewhere;
show the steps, cost and partners needed to ›› Those in Italy are far more likely to check
deliver similar activity including social media seams when buying a new or second-hand
campaigns, staff clothing collection drives and garment (over 60%) and they are far more
city wide clothing campaigns. likely to check their wardrobes before
shopping;
Examples of countries using this material: ›› In every nation apart from Italy, the 30/40°
›› Netherlands: working with Milieu setting when washing clothes account for
Centraal, a national consumer campaign around three quarters of all households;
organisation - they incorporated some ›› Disposing of old clothes is done in different
Love Your Clothes messages and materials way between nations, like charity shops,
to create a clothing section of their website - charity bags or bring banks;
www.loveyourclothes.nl which launched ›› Italians have a strong disposition towards
in July 2018. repairing and are keen to learn repair skills,
versus far less in Germany.
22 ECAP Projects Circular Textiles Ready to market 23Young Consumers Our stylish second-hand pop up shop Learnings and Insights ›› We changed our thinking to be like a brand
showcased second hand fashion at its very rather than a local authority.
The campaign #LoveNotLandfill is designed best, displayed in a vibrant, spacious and The various campaigns and activities helped us ›› We had to take the clothes banks to the
to change the behavior of young people in friendly environment. The shop attracted collect the following learnings and insights: people and make them look different and
London in how they buy, care for and dispose 2500 visitors over 4 days and achieved some interesting to get their attention.
of clothing. great media coverage. ›› In the planning we found it very difficult ›› We used the people and platforms they were
to connect with local authorities for their already engaging with to gain approval and
www.lovenotlandfill.org School activities support. Their limited resources and priority trust in our intentions and our messages.
www.instagram.com/lovenotlandfill towards other recycling targets meant ›› We learnt that if doing something for the first
www.twitter.com/LoveNotLandfill Schools are more engaged on environmental that interest to get involved with Love time (like putting clothes banks in shopping
activity than ever before, but until now Not Landfill was limited. But as a result, centres) we would need more time than we
Multiple textile clothing banks were placed it’s rarely been about fashion and clothes. we found we built string relationships anticipated.
across the city in locations where young people #LoveNotLandfill created a menu of activities with partner organizations such as textile
visit regularly, five of which were designed by to help them fill their 6th form personal social recyclers, charities and sustainable fashion
street artist Bambi to appeal to this younger and health education sessions. We put a clothes activist groups which opened up further
demographic. bank on site and then held an assembly to opportunities for activity.
talk about how students can help reduce their ›› We spent a small amount of time and
During Fashion Revolution Week in London impact on the environment through fashion. budget on speaking to our target audience.
we launched the #LoveNotLandfill campaign We worked with the most engaged students to The insights from these meetings were
by holding a swap and style event at LM Barry help them devise a communications campaign invaluable to the campaign and with
textile recyclers for both members of the public to encourage others across the school to donate hindsight we would have spent more time
and influencers, where they brought old clothes clothes into the bank. The #LoveNotLandfill engaging the participants and developing
to donate, styled and photographed themselves team returned a month later to hold a clothes those relationships to help guide the project.
in outfits they had found at the plant, and got to swap in school.
take away an outfit that they had created.
24 ECAP Projects Circular Textiles Ready to market 25Increasing used
textile collection
One option to reduce clothing waste to landfill that can be brought into such collaborations
and incineration is to increase collection, are clothing brands, who both can collect
reuse and recycling of post-consumer clothing. used clothing in their own shops and provide
In six European cities we analysed practices and communication that can benefit all.
presented findings that can inspire municipalities
and collectors elsewhere. Antwerp is one of the The Antwerp collaboration has branded itself as
successful stories to be told. ‘De Collectie` and uses this common brand on
all communication. This simplifies and amplifies
Collaboration instead of competition communication with citizens. The results were
Collaboration rather than competition between measured and interesting as can be seen in the
actors can increase efficiency of collection. In figures below.
Antwerp, collectors who each fill a different
collection niche came together in a cooperative Links
where each of their activities complements More information about the practices of other
one another. The focus on networks in the European cities and lessons learned, can
city of Antwerp’s tender documents laid the be found at the report www.ecap.eu.com/
foundations for this cooperation. Further actors resources-reports
Distribution of collection by collection method in Antwerp. Source; De Collectie
Public procurement
2% 8%
Governments and other public bodies use a European Clothing Action Plan, the Dutch
21%
24% lot of textiles, like uniforms, safety clothing, agency Rijkswaterstaat helped develop circular
29% 19% workwear and linen. As such governments have procurement criteria for textiles that will be
a lot of buying power and the ability to change shared with the European Commission, so
2016 2017 15%
the supply chain towards circularity. They can
for instance buy or lease garments made with
these can be included in an update of the
green public procurement criteria.
15% 7%
recycled fibres and organise the collection of
7%
workwear at end of life. These criteria can also help or inspire both
29%
workwear companies and fashion brands to
23%
The European Union has developed green make their procurement more circular and
public procurement criteria to facilitate sustainable.
own stores container parks door to door - pick-up rounds door to door - on call sustainable requirements in public tender
textile containers meeting points (libraries, shops etc.) documents. These are used by public If you are interested in the circular procurement
procurers across Europe. As part of the criteria please visit www.ecap.eu.com.
26 ECAP Projects Circular Textiles Ready to market 27Fibre Recovery 43%
Polyester
Polyester
%recycled
% recycled
postconsumer textiles
postconsumer textiles
17%
Cotton
Moodstreet
Moodstreet
Jacket
Jacketchildren
children % recycled Asos
Asos
Jeans//Africa
Jeans Africa
As the worldwide demand for sustainable Even though these results concern just 9 pilots in 50%
Cotton
China
China
Polyester
Moodstreet
postconsumer textiles Asos
20%
Tencel Cotton
JBC
% recycled
Jacket children
textiles is growing, fibre recovery is an a specific period of time, we feel free to draw two WE
WEFashion
Fashion China
Jeans / Africa
JBC
Pants+Skirt
Pullovers
Pullovers M Jeans
denim/ Pakistan
important way of minimising our environmental conclusions. First of all denims are frontrunners / Turkey
Italy
Italy
Tencel 5%
Polyester
Moodstreet
Wool/own
postconsumer textiles ??% JBC
impact. It helps to reduce the use of virgin in the field of fibre recovery. Not only did several WE Fashion Polyester Asos
Wool Pants+Skirt
Pullovers M Suitsupply
Jacket children Jeans / Africa
Suitsupply
Tricorp denim / Turkey
materials, saves water and energy and leads pilots produce denims with recycled content, but Italy China
Jackets
Worker / Asia Suits
??% / Italy
to less landfill and incineration. others also used denims as a source to produce 10%
Tencel
Italy
Polyester Wool 10%
JBC
Cotton/PET
Cotton
WE Fashion Tricorp Suitsupply Pants+Skirt
different garments. Secondly, the wide range of Tricorp
Pullovers
TricorpM Worker / Asia Suits / Italy Schijvens
Schijvens
denim / Turkey
T-shirtItaly
T-shirt// Spain
Spain Workwear
Workwear
The Fibre to Fibre pilots were one of the percentages and materials used can be seen as a 15%
??%
10% Spain
Turkey
Polyester Wool
projects of the European Clothing Action promise for further growth of circular textiles in Tricorp Cotton/own Cotton
Suitsupply Schijvens
Tricorp
T-shirt / Spain Blycolin
Blycolin
Worker / Asia Havep
Havep
Suits / Italy Workwear
Plan. Nine companies, from fashion brands the near future. Bed
Bedsheets
sheets Workwear
Fabric workwear
Spain
Spain
Spain Spain
Spain
to workwear companies and from children’s
Tricorp Blycolin Havep Schijvens
wear to hotel linen, started an innovative The impact numbers are a snapshot, as some T-shirt / Spain Bed sheets Fabric workwear Workwear
Spain Spain Spain
pilot to recover fibres and turn them into pilot companies scaled up their project and
new garments. ordered additional fabric. The numbers are Blycolin
Bed sheets
% recycled Havep
Fabric workwear
calculated by REMO and take into account the Spain
other
% resources Spain
The overview on the next page summarizes substitution of virgin into recycled fibres. Other Blycolin
35%
%recycled
recycled 55%
Havep
10%
the results of these pilots in terms of recycled potential environmental benefits were left out Bed sheets
Cotton*
Spain
other
other resources
resources Fabric
PET*workwear
Spain
Cotton*
Blycolin Havep
content. It shows the percentage of recycled (e.g. no bleaching or dyeing) and the calculation Blycolin Havep
post- and pre-consumer fibres, the material did not consider differences between fibres
Bed
Bed
sheets
sheets
Spain
Spain
% recycled Workwear
Fabric workwear
Europe
Spain
used, which garment was made and finally the originating from post-consumer textiles versus other resources Schijvens
Polyester* Blycolin Workwear
Havep
producing country. industrial textile waste. www.remokey.com Tricorp Spain
Tshirt / Spain 40% BedSpain
sheets
20%
Fabric workwear
50%
Spain Cotton* Schijvens
50% Cotton*
Polyester* Workwear
Pet bottles
Polyester*
Tricorp
The following chapter gives an overview of all Tricorp
Tshirt / Spain
Spain
Schijvens
Havep Workwear
9 pilots and the results achieved so far. T-shirt / Spain Worker denim Turkey
Schijvens
Pakistan
Polyester* Workwear
Tricorp 5% 66%
Havep Spain
Tshirt / Spain Wool* Cotton*
Worker denim
Suitsupply Pakistan
Havep
Jackets Worker denim
*Industrial waste
Italy Pakistan
Havep
Worker denim
Pakistan *Industrial waste
*Industrial waste
Pilot companies:
Pilot companies:
*Industrial waste
Pilot companies:
Exchange between
participants at HAVEP
in Goirle, the Netherlands
28 ECAP Projects Circular Textiles Ready to market 29avings:
water s ets
ull buck
o 100 f
1m3 equals t
Personal notes
:
savings
energy 00 km
a ls d r iving 6,5
Wh equ ric car
1,000 k a ge elect
a v e r
with an
Fibre
to Fibre
Pilots
30 ECAP Projects Circular Textiles Ready to market 31Fibre to Fibre Pilot
ASOS
ASOS was founded in 2000 and has Lessons learned
become a top fashion destination for ›› One key challenge with using a substantial
20-somethings around the world. It has amount of recycled fibre was maintaining
more than 87,000 ASOS and branded a commercially viable product with
products on site, with 5,000 new items consistent quality.
added each week. It also offers fashion- ›› ASOS needed to draw on the support of
related content through its websites, industry experts to engage and educate
mobile apps, the ASOS Magazine and suppliers on how to use recycled cotton
its social media accounts, which have effectively throughout production.
more than 22 million followers. It serves ›› Collaboration is key to circular fashion, and
18.4 million active customers from engagement with suppliers, mills, and other
fulfilment centres in the UK, US and brands can help deliver change. Industry-
Europe, delivering ASOS packages to wide collaboration efforts and guidance in
almost every country in the world. this space would prove useful.
›› Drawing on a vertical supplier with years
The Fibre to Fibre project facts of yarn-spinning expertise helped make
›› ASOS wanted to increase the use of recycled the pilot a success.
denim in its menswear and womenswear ›› Regional differences, for example in
ASOS Design jeans and develop knowledge availability of raw material, expertise,
and expertise internally. supplier capability, and transparency need to
›› Through the Fibre to Fibre project and with be considered if the use of recycled content
the support of experts from ECAP, ASOS is to be scaled through supply chains.
was able to increase the amount of recycled
“ASOS’ vision for circular
denim in the jeans selected for this pilot Tips for starters
to 17% in 2017 and 20% in 2018. ›› Start with a pilot to gather knowledge
›› The online retailer used a mix of pre- about recycled fibres.
consumer and post-consumer denim. ›› Look into opportunities to mix pre- and
post-consumer fibres to deliver a higher
fashion is a future where
Environmental impact
›› This pilot achieved positive environmental
percentage of recycled content and give
strength to the fibre/fabric.
all customers recycle their
impact. An indication of this impact in 2017 is:
Water savings: 7,694 m3
›› Allow some flexibility in the planning and
critical stages of your project in order to
clothing, and waste is
Energy savings: 13,978 kWh
CO2 reduction: 3.5 tonnes
experiment with innovative partners.
›› Closely monitor and plan lead times. re-used in the supply chain.”
›› In 2017 1.1 tonnes of discarded textiles Tara Luckman Head of Sustainable Sourcing, ASOS
were saved from landfill.
www.asosplc.com
32 Fibre to Fibre Pilots Circular Textiles Ready to market 33Fibre to Fibre Pilot
Blycolin
Blycolin started in 1972 as a service Lessons learned
company for linen in the hospitality ›› In Southern- Europe the knowledge and
industry. Blycolin is supplying linen experience of recycling of textiles (both
for hotels, restaurants and wellness pre and postconsumer) is of a surprisingly
centers in Europe and provides full high level.
service in cooperation with a network ›› Bulk production of yarn and fabric with
of 150 laundries by taking care of recycled content is a prerequisite for
investment, tailor-made assortment, investment by the suppliers.
laundry services, logistics and ›› The development of new fabric produced with
inventory management. Sustainability recycled content is really time consuming.
is a key value. ›› There is hardly any knowledge about
sustainability of textiles in the hospitality
The Fibre to Fibre project facts sector.
›› Production of bed sheets made from ›› Besides quality the communication about
fibres of recycled cotton the right way to handle is essential to the
›› The material of the bed linen is 70/30 longevity of the bedlinen.
cotton/polyester blend ›› The reduction of the cost-price of fabric
›› Composition of the yarn and fabric: 15% with recycled content does not seem
post-consumer cotton from own bed sheets, to be feasible in Europe. The opportunities
35% industrial cotton waste, 20% virgin in Asia yet are unknown.
cotton and 30% virgin PET ›› The current import regimes for waste
could constitute obstacles to the
Environmental impact development of circular textiles.
“We started with recycling
›› The recycling of raw materials in this pilot
achieved positive environmental impact. Tips for starters
An indication of this impact in 2018 is: ›› Talk to your suppliers on a regular basis
Water savings: 3889 m3
Energy savings: 7053 kWh
and also discuss product-improvement
and recycling.
10 years ago. It was our
CO2 reduction: 1.7 tonnes
›› In 2018 560 kg of discarded cotton
›› 100% circular textiles could be not possible,
but for sure you can get to work on this
dream to make new bedlinen
(post and pre consumer) were saved
from the waste mountain.
issue for 100%.
›› Communication about good care of
out of old bedlinen !”
the product is an essential part of Jaqueline Mommer Marketing & Communications Manager Blycolin
circular textiles.
www.blycolin.com
34 Fibre to Fibre Pilots Circular Textiles Ready to market 35Fibre to Fibre Pilot
HAVEP
Havep is a Dutch family owned Lessons learned
company active in workwear and ›› Post-consumer recycled content realised
protective wear since 1865. Most of by mechanical recycling still has a negative
the customers are part of industries influence on the quality (strength) of
like construction, (petro) chemicals, the fibres.
transportation and logistics. Havep ›› Chemical recycling of cotton resulting in a
offers a service based on a strong viscose seems to have very good results,
stock collection and project service but it is hard to scale up from pilot scale.
for custom made solutions. ›› Reflect on the ‘after life’ use of a garment
in the design process.
The Fibre to Fibre project facts ›› It takes time to find the right partners in the
›› Production of aprons: polyester/cotton supply chain and to get a good collaboration
fabric with recycled content. between them.
›› Composition of the yarn and fabric is: ›› The search for the proper fibre mix in the
10% post-consumer and industrial textile yarn and the fabric of circular workwear
waste cotton and 25% virgin cotton and isn’t yet completed.
65% recycled PET. ›› The origin of the discarded waste back into
›› Production of 3 types of jeans with the supply chain is difficult to trace.
66% recycled cotton (cutting waste) to ›› We need to make it easy for our customers
add to the stock collection. to choose the sustainable option: no
›› Production of yarn of viscose (Saxcell): compromise on price and quality.
chemically recycled post consumer ›› The government can play an important
HAVEP overalls (100% cotton). role by stimulating the procurement of
“This ECAP pilot helped
circular products.
Environmental impact
›› The recycling of raw materials in this Tips for starters
pilot achieved positive environmental
impact. An indication of this impact in
›› Reflect upon Design! Circularity in textiles
is more than recycling.
us to make the change
the period 2017-2018 is:
Water savings: 12,564 m3
›› Cooperate with suppliers and other
parties who share the same vision. That is
we want to achieve”
Energy savings: 25,403 kWh a key to success. Vinsent Jansen product manager of Havep
CO2 reduction: 2.0 tonnes ›› Develop a strategy to work more circular
›› In 2018 at least 2.3 tonnes of discarded and decide upon your focus.
textiles both post en preconsumer were
saved from the waste mountain.
www.havep.com
36 Fibre to Fibre Pilots Circular Textiles Ready to market 37Fibre to Fibre Pilot
JBC
JBC is a family owned fashion retailer Lessons learned
which was established in 1975. The ›› It was proven that circularity in the supply
company owns about 145 shops across chain is possible.
Belgium, Luxembourg and Germany ›› Important to investigate possible risks in
and some online shops. Within the advance.
company the I AM brand stands for ›› Take care of internal acceptance in the
the new sustainable fashion line. complete organization (management,
The company already developed a marketing and sales)
coat from recycled PET bottles. ›› Find partners which can be fully trusted
›› A combination of pre- and post-consumer
The Fibre to Fibre project facts recycled material seems to be the most
›› Production of denim for children, women effective
and men, made from fibres of recycled jeans ›› The ecological foot print can be both positive
›› The material consisted of cotton with elastane and negative. Negative is for instance
›› In the design recycling at end-of life is transport of post-consumer material.
considered Seeking the right balance is crucial.
›› Composition of the yarn and fabric: ›› Prepare well researched communication
20% post-consumer textiles (denims), with your customer. Why are you doing this?
78% virgin (bio cotton) and 2% elastane What does it deliver? How does it work?
(originated from PET bottles)
Tips for starters
Environmental impact ›› Internal acceptance is key, also with
›› The recycling of materials in this pilot partners in the supply chain
“Our vision and
achieved positive environmental impact. ›› Be persistent and translate ideas in
An indication of the impact in 2018 is: feasible and practical solutions
Water savings: 5,485 m3 ›› Make clear choices, evaluate and adjust
Energy savings: 9,955 kWh
Carbon reduction: 2.4 tonnes
if necessary
›› Start with a limited amount of articles
message is:
›› In 2018 almost 0.8 ton of discarded textiles
were saved from the waste mountain.
Recycling is OK”
Owner of JBC
www.jbc.be
38 Fibre to Fibre Pilots Circular Textiles Ready to market 39Fibre to Fibre Pilot
Moodstreet
Moodstreet is one of the 15 children Lessons learned
brands of the Jolo Fashion Group. ›› It was a great learning process to
This family owned business was understand each step in the process,
established over 40 years ago and which was different from the usual buying
transformed from a specialist in of ready made garments.
children’s coats and jackets for private ›› Working with many styles in small volumes
label into a general children’s wear is a challenge because of minimum order
specialist, designing and producing quantities for recycled fabric.
children’s fashion for all ages, from ›› Taking time to experiment with sample
baby to teenager. collections was important to get feedback
from our customers, the retailers.
The Fibre to Fibre project facts ›› Designing specifically for the project did not
›› Development of sample jersey collection work. It was better to produce a garment
for girls (Darlin) and boys (Fellow), denims that was already sold in recycled material.
and jackets. Only jackets of 100% polyester ›› Post-consumer recycled polyester is of great
were taken into production. quality and can easily replace virgin. Price is
›› Polyester fabric of jackets: 43% post-consumer a bit higher, but the story much better.
and 57% virgin polyester made in China. ›› Sales force needs to learn how to sell
›› Production of an educational film to tell garments with a story.
the story of sustainability and recycling ›› Retailers like the idea, but have difficulty
to children. translating sustainability into an appealing
story for consumers.
Environmental impact ›› Sourcing recycled fabric in the country
“Children are the future and
›› The chemical recycling of postconsumer where the garment is made helps to
polyester in this pilot achieved positive simplify the process.
environmental impact. An indication of the
savings compared to virgin polyester is:
Energy savings: 17%
Tips for starters
›› Find a material that fits into your existing
as a children’s brand we want
CO2 reduction: 22%
No water savings due to recycling of polyester
supply chain, to make a start easy.
›› Make the choice for recycled materials as a
to make it a bright one”
›› In 2018 we have reused 0.65 tonnes of brand and then find market discriminators Evelien Vlasblom founder of Moodstreet
textile waste and contributed to a smaller for the product with your customer.
mountain of waste. ›› As a small brand it is important to work
together with others to reach minimum
order volumes and to learn from each other.
›› Be aware of extra lead time for the
production process.
www.moodstreet.nl
40 Fibre to Fibre Pilots Circular Textiles Ready to market 41Fibre to Fibre Pilot
Schijvens
Schijvens is a Dutch family business Lessons learned
that has been involved in the design, ›› Closing the material loop is commercially
production and distribution of viable: sales are expected to soon exceed
workwear for 150 years. Schijvens 100,000 items a year, which is 20% of
supplies various types of items, from the total volume.
polo shirts to dresses, from overalls ›› Material from discarded workwear of
to aprons, from work trousers to suits clients is suitable for recycling. The mix of
as well as accessories such as shoes, recycled fibres from industrial waste and
badges, belts and bags. post-consumer textiles can reduce the risk
of quality loss.
The Fibre to Fibre project facts ›› Chain cooperation is the key to success.
›› Production of T-shirts, polo shirts, The whole value circle should be involved
blouses and other clothing made from to bear risks and costs, to communicate
fibres of recycled textiles and to innovate. Clients also want to join
›› The material of the workwear is approx. in the development.
50/50 cotton/polyester ›› The design for recycling demands changes
›› Composition of the yarn and fabric: in the design like minimal different
30% post-consumer textiles (mixed PET & material and accessories or smaller logos.
cotton), 20% industrial textile waste (cotton) Not all customers like the simplicity of this
and 50% PET (from bottles) circular design.
›› Return logistics are expensive and there
Environmental impact are not a lot of logistic companies that are
›› The recycling of raw materials in this able to handle returns.
“We definitely see
pilot achieved positive environmental ›› Legislation is not yet ready for recycling.
impact. An indication of this impact from For example, the sorted clothes have to be
2017 to mid-2018 is: mutilated before they can enter Turkey.
Water savings: 38,617 m3
Energy savings: 94,743 kWh Tips for starters
circularity as our
CO2 reduction: 19.8 tonnes
›› In the period between 2017 and mid-2018,
›› Start with the development of a yarn
with recycled content which is applicable
new business model”
11 tonnes of discarded textiles as well as to manufacture various products Shirley Schijvens managing director of Schijvens
bottles were saved from the waste mountain. ›› Ensure to have a long-term vision and
strategy
›› Focus on staff training
›› Suppliers are partners: annual strategic
meeting
www.schijvens.nl
42 Fibre to Fibre Pilots Circular Textiles Ready to market 43Fibre to Fibre Pilot
Suitsupply
Suitsupply is a privately held European Lessons learned
tailoring company and has a strong ›› People are attached to their suits and
international presence. Suitsupply won’t throw them away easily. Therefore it’s
acts as an innovator and disruptor hard to raise the volume of collected suits.
in a very traditional segment: ›› Suits are complex made garments and
high-end menswear tailoring. consist of many components from
Suitsupply has joined the Global different materials. Therefore the risk of
Fashion Agenda initiative and is contamination is high and the yield of
keen on creating a true impact. recycling is much lower than expected.
From this perspective the focus is ›› There is a quality requirement of 100%
on implementation in the already mono material , which is the biggest
existing supply chains and products obstacle for recycling.
that are the most substantial. ›› The quality of recovered wool is high.
›› When you start recycling you are actually
The Fibre to Fibre project facts starting a new supply chain- you will need
›› Take back of worn out blue and grey suits crucial understanding and transparency to
to feed a circular product line. The pilot is really understand the environmental and
about production of jackets.
›› The main material of the suits is merino
social impact.
›› The supplier is a vertically integrated
“Recycling for us is
wool, the interlining and other inside parts
are made of different other materials
company which wants to incorporate
recycling in its own chain. Right now it’s
about extending
›› Composition of the main yarn and fabric:
5% post-consumer wool from discarded
more time consuming to do so, but in the
long run it will save more time. life and use,
something close
suits (Suitsupply), 5% industrial textile waste ›› Collaboration and knowledge exchange
(wool) and 90% virgin merino wool with other brands and retailers could help
the development of circularity.
Environmental impact to our practices
›› The recycling of raw materials in this pilot Tips for starters
achieved positive environmental impact.
An indication of the savings in 2019 is:
›› Create strong relationships with the key
suppliers in your supply chains- you will
by making high
Water savings: 12 m3
Energy savings: 2208 kWh
need them.
›› A focus on quality, efficient use of materials
quality products
CO2 reduction: 1.3 tonnes
›› For a small pilot production in 2019 12 kg
and time and the internal economic
consequences give you a good start to
that last”
of discarded suits were saved from the reach sustainability and circularity. Quote from Global fashion agenda
waste mountain. ›› If you want to provide quality you also need
to provide for the people working in the
factories, because a lot of the work is still
www.suitsupply.com done manually.
44 Fibre to Fibre Pilots Circular Textiles Ready to market 45Fibre to Fibre Pilot
Tricorp
Tricorp was founded in 1998 in the Lessons learned
Netherlands. The company aims to ›› Finding the right mix for yarn with a good
provide professionals with workwear price-quality ratio takes time. It is time-
that ensures they get the most out consuming rather than complicated due to
of their working day. RFS in the logo endless testing.
stands for Representative, Functional, ›› The mix of post-consumer and industrially
Clothing. This reflects the ambition and discarded textile offers the best outcome
the expansion of the collection with a as far as quality and price are concerned.
Multi Standards Line, rain clothing ›› The distinction between post- and
and women’s clothing. pre-consumer is not clear for everyone –
a workable shared definition would help.
The Fibre to Fibre project facts ›› Besides colour, pilling is the most important
›› Production of T-shirts and polo shirts, challenge. Blending with PET proved to be
made from fibres of discarded textiles. the solution for our products.
The material is a mix of cotton and polyester ›› Chain organisation and a change in the
›› Production of trousers from Infinity, a working method are important elements
material of 100% polyesters which is of the circular economy. A chain director is
designed for recycling. required; also finding new suppliers.
›› Composition of the yarn and fabric is: ›› The relationship with competitors has
10% post-consumer cotton 40% industrial changed, this makes the work more fun. This
textile waste cotton and 50% PET is an unexpected revenue-maximising effect.
Environmental impact Tips for starters
“The core notion is a circular
›› The recycling of raw materials in this pilot ›› Focus on staff training staff to give shape
achieved positive environmental impact. to the shift from a linear to a circular
An indication of the impact in 2018 is: working method.
Water savings: 1562 m3
Energy savings: 467 kWh
›› Recycled content means testing and more
testing. Schedule enough time for this.
organisation. It is more than
CO2 reduction: 0.2 tonnes
›› In 2018 137 kg of discarded textiles both
›› A reliable track and trace system. A good
relationship with producers is required
delivering a circular product.”
post en pre-consumer were saved from to achieve this. Willem Eimers former project leader at ECAP pilot Tricorp
the waste mountain.
www.tricorp.com
46 Fibre to Fibre Pilots Circular Textiles Ready to market 47Fibre to Fibre Pilot
WE Fashion
We Fashion is a Dutch fashion retailer Lessons learned
with stores in various Northern ›› The support of company management is
European countries. The chain forms required to ensure that all departments
part of Logo Internationaal BV. Target are involved in the pilot
groups are starters and families, men ›› Planning and logistics are of great
and women aged between 20-35. importance for the commercial success
of these new products
The Fibre to Fibre project facts ›› Working with the recycling and C2C business
›› Production of knitted product for men: is very challenging for fashion retailers.
two styles are developed in various colours. The agendas of the companies do not match
›› The material is a cotton viscose mix of without intense communication and there is
approx. 50-50 %. In one style 4.5 % of PET little understanding of limits in each other’s
is added. worlds. Developing a better understanding
›› Composition of the yarn and fabric: by communicating better is indispensable.
50% recycled jeans, mixed with Tencel. ›› The consequences of technical choices during
Recycled cotton from white T-shirts was the development process for the ultimate
used as a contrasting colour. yarns are difficult to assess for the retailer
›› A retailer can only contribute towards the
Environmental impact development of new yarns at an affordable
›› The recycling of materials in this pilot price in case of high volumes.
achieved positive environmental impact.
An indication of the impact in 2018 is: Tips for starters
Water savings: 584 m3 ›› Selection of a product based on
Energy savings: 10,665 kWh long-term relationships with the supplier
CO2 reduction: 1.7 tonnes and sufficient internal turnover
›› In 2018 1.4 tonnes of discarded textiles ›› Put design in the lead
were saved from the waste mountain. ›› Let a “fibre to fibre” pilot tie in with
the normal process
›› Communication and planning are
crucial for success
“We as a company are
confident we can start
developing yarns with other
parties for future collections!”
Marijke Willemsen CSR manager of WE Fashion
www.wefashion.com
48 Fibre to Fibre Pilots Circular Textiles Ready to market 49Personal notes
Boosting
Circularity
50 Fibre to Fibre Pilots Circular Textiles Ready to market 51Great initiatives can already be found in the market place today. Some of them
are small scale local initiatives and some focus on international markets with
great potential to change the market at large. All of them show courage and
operate with vision. We feel that these initiatives deserve a place in this guide
and a big thank you for leading the way. Of course we understand that we cannot
cover all great examples here, so this selection is a taste of today and tomorrow.
A fashion industry to be proud of.
Reverse Resources
Reverse Resources enables textile companies We have launched our SaaS platform in
to reduce waste and efficiently reclaim assets Bangladesh and Sri Lanka, successfully tracing
focusing primarily on textile production scraps from supplier through trading network
waste. Our aim is to lessen the dependence to recycler. We are working with several global
on virgin materials whilst improving margins brands as industry experts in the area of textile
and strengthening partnerships within circular waste and the circular economy.
supply chains. To do this, we have developed a
tracking, tracing, & trading software platform to Winners of the H&M Global Change award,
measure, verify, and share material flows data Fashion for Good acceleration program, Levi’s
in real time. The platform connects different Collaboratory and second in the Dutch Postcode
stakeholders to build a circular supply chain lottery Green Challenge.
and creates a win-win business case between
them by creating a common information www.reverseresources.net
space and bringing down market barriers.
By having certainty around materials flows,
supply networks can operate with increasing
efficiency and minimal environmental impact.
This supports turning waste into higher value
resources, and helping to deliver quality
products at a good price.
Circular Textiles Ready to market 53Star Socks ACT; Africa
Comfortable socks save the ocean
Healthy Seas Socks produce lovely soft socks
Ecological footprint
That is how we make a difference and how
Collect Textiles
and save the ocean simultaneously. Hundreds you can reduce your ecological footprint on
of fish and other types of marine life are earth with such little effort. On top of that, a Many second-hand items collected from, Worldwide 60 billion kilos of textiles are lost
suffocating or starving to death in abandoned part of the profit is invested in the Healthy amongst others, The Netherlands are sold to every year. ACT strongly believes in recycling
fishing nets. We are here to recover these ghost Seas initiative. This organisation uses your African countries. They are worn and eventually and countries like Kenya play a crucial role in
nets and transform them into ecological nylon. contribution to recover even more fishing nets, discarded on landfills or burnt in the open air. the foundation of a global recycling economy.
A healthier ocean starts with your brand new to educate about recycling waste and raises ACT places collection containers in churches, In Africa many items enjoy a second life and the
socks. awareness on prevention of ocean pollution. universities, shopping malls, estates and continent has an established and growing textile
factories to makes sure items and cutting waste industry that is able to process old clothes and
Super soft and comfortable www.starsock.nl can be collected, worn again or processed into cutting waste into new clothes.
These socks are as soft as a summer’s breeze new products. Wearable items flow back to
caressing your feet. They are seamless and the second-hand markets or are donated to Website: www.africacollecttextiles.com
produced with regenerated nylon and biological orphanages and elderly homes. Ripped items Facebook: www.facebook.com/AfricaCollectTextiles
cotton. The toe and heel are reinforced to and cutting waste are recycled into blankets, Animation: www.youtu.be/oJDF0074YQA
ensure a longer lifespan and they come with mats, furniture, shoes, bags and new clothes. 1-minute Pitch: www.youtu.be/kzE7WfPwH4c
a broad rim. Because of the low price of the
Healthy Seas Socks a sustainable lifestyle is now
affordable for everyone.
54 Boosting Circularity Circular Textiles Ready to market 55You can also read
