Cosmetics Packaging - How a decorative finish can increase shelf appeal Packaging & Converting Intelligence

Page created by Steven Black
 
CONTINUE READING
Cosmetics Packaging - How a decorative finish can increase shelf appeal Packaging & Converting Intelligence
Cosmetics Packaging                           I   N   S   I   G     H   T
                                                      SUMMER 2018

                                How a decorative finish can increase shelf appeal

                                 Luxury • Connectivity • Design • Brand protection

CPI002_100_Cover_Final.indd 1                                                        13/07/2018 16:38
Cosmetics Packaging - How a decorative finish can increase shelf appeal Packaging & Converting Intelligence
AF-SAMPLING INNOVATIONS-ANUNCIOS-210x286mm+3mm-ENGLISH.pdf     1    11/5/18   11:57

 C

 M

 Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

 K

                  The perfect experience                                                                           SELF-SAMPLING®
                  for your consumer                                                                       Introducing customised technology that

                  does exist.                                                                             dispenses a single fragrance or make up
                                                                                                          sample at the touch of a button.

                  Let’s discover it together.                                                              • EASY only one click!
                                                                                                           • NON-INVASIVE consumer choice.
                                                360º                                                       • INNOVATIVE experiential solution.

                   Passionate about           Passionate about                    Passionate about
                   ideas.                     full service.                       impact.
                   We are experts in          We offer a 360 degree               We seek to engage
                   creating innovative        approach from design and            the consumer
                   sampling solutions for     production, through to the          and ensure that
                   fragrance, beauty and      promotion and distribution of       sampling delivers
                   personal care brands.      samples to your consumer.           amazing results.                 www.sampling-innovations.com

                                                                                                 Passionate
                                                                                              about sampling
                                                                                                               Scent labels   Sachets   Vials   Miniatures   Make up

      Samplinginnovations.indd 1                                                                                                                               12/07/2018 09:57
Cosmetics Packaging - How a decorative finish can increase shelf appeal Packaging & Converting Intelligence
From the editor

                On the web...
                Keep up with the latest developments
                                                                                                                                                                   Matthew Rogerson
                across the packaging industry by visiting                                                                                                          Editor
                www.pci-mag.com

                                                                                    Premiumisation
                                                                                    with purpose
                                                                                    T
                                                                                               he cosmetics and beauty markets                                    accolade of being counterfeited. Kanebo
                                                                                               are exceptionally focused on sight.                                last year launched Rose Beauty Whip in an
                Cosmetics Packaging Insight                                                    Phrases such as ‘beauty is in the                                  aerosol that created a flower-like cream when
                Summer 2018
                                                                                    eye of the beholder’, ‘mesmerising’, and                                      dispensing – it proved so popular on social
                EDITORIAL
                                                                                    ‘the… look’ all cry out to us from pages,                                     media that it had to be rationed in Japan and
                Editor Matthew Rogerson
                Chief sub-editor Thom Atkinson                                      media platforms and other advertising sites.                                  South Korea. The elements shared by these
                Sub-editors Dale Hogan, Todd Palmer                                 The desirable combination seems to be for                                     diverse success stories is that they have all
                Contributing writer Ceri Jones
                Production manager Steve Buchanan                                   the individual to achieve not just the perfect                                registered and reacted to the second key
                Group art director Henrik Williams
                                                                                    look, but for any occasion. And the strategy                                  ingredient in this aesthetically dominated
                Designer Martin Faulkner
                                                                                    is working. Sales for the industry are growing                                market: premiumisation.
                COMMERCIAL
                                                                                    at a phenomenal rate, from $412 billion in                                       While the term is vague enough to cover a
                Client services executive Yasmina Jackson
                Publication director Jerry Taylor                                   2017 with a CAGR of 3.6% through to 2022.                                     lot of real estate, it is a crucial factor that gives
                Subscriptions marketing manager                                        With these types of sums involved –                                        a well-made cosmetic or beauty product the
                Mariella Salerno
                Head of sales Richard Jamieson                                      especially in this hyper-connected, social                                    power to develop explosive and sustainable
                Publisher William Crocker
                                                                                    media world – looks will only get you so                                      growth. Even when everyone has access
                                                                                    far. Promises of quality have to be delivered                                 to the product, it is still seen as exclusive.
                                                                                    – functions that enhance the experience of                                    Premiumisation is often about engaging
                Cosmetics Packaging Insight is published by                         using the product and take it from a generic                                  the other senses, such as having a fine mist
                Compelo, a member of the Audit Bureau of Circulation.
                                                                                    daily grind to a sensational experience that                                  to spray at targeted skincare, an applicator
                John Carpenter House, John Carpenter Street,
                London, EC4Y 0AN, UK                                                you can share with the world. One that makes                                  that is easy to carry and can be applied with
                Tel: +44 20 7936 6400 Fax: +44 20 7411 9800                         you want to show everyone how good you                                        incredible accuracy, shaving foam that does
                Email: info@compelo.com
                Websites: www.compelo.com                                           look and how well you feel.                                                   not need water, or a unique dispensing system
                www.pci-mag.com
                                                                                       Cosmetics and beauty have responded. In                                    that adds a little joy to the overall effect. These
                ISSN 2516-3442 © 2018 Compelo.
                Registered in England No. 09901510.                                 China, Estée Lauder has used role models and                                  touches have all had successful debuts this
                All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be
                                                                                    tied in packaging to enhance the experience                                   year, and more are anticipated.
                reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any      for millennial women, who previously avoided                                     There are a range of these and other
                form or by any means, electronic, photocopying or otherwise,
                without prior permission of the publisher and copyright owner.      the brand, resulting in huge success. Kylie                                   topics covered in this edition of Cosmetics
                While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the      Jenner, who is only 21 in August, has started a                               Packaging Insight, and though the whole
                information in this publication, the publisher accepts no
                responsibility for errors or omissions.                             cosmetics brand that has been so successful,                                  beauty market is included, it is cosmetics
                The products and services advertised are those of individual        that not only will she be a dollar billionaire in                             that are driving the most visible innovations
                authors and are not necessarily endorsed by or connected with
                                                                                    her 20s, but she also acquired the dubious                                    in this most visible of markets.
                the publisher. The opinions expressed in the articles within this
                publication are those of individual authors and not necessarily
                those of the publisher.
                                                                                       Cosmetics Packaging
                                                                                                                                                 In this issue
                SUBSCRIPTIONS
                                                                                                         I   N   S   I   G     H   T
                                                                                                                 SUMMER 2018

                Single issue:       UK £31    EU €49    US $65        ROW $65
                One year:           UK £48    EU €76    US $99        ROW $100
                Two year:           UK £77    EU €120   US $158       ROW $159                                                                   Page 15: Selling the dream: executives from top brands
                                                                                                                                                 discuss how to package and market the idea of premium.
                Subscription hotline: +44 845 155 1845 (local rate)
                Subscription fax: +44 20 8269 7877
                                                                                                                                                 Page 22: We look at the role social media has played in the
                Email: cs@compelo.com                                                                                                            rapid success story of Kylie Cosmetics.
                Cosmetic Packaging Insight & Innovation Subscriptions,
                Riverbridge House, Ground Floor, South Tower, Anchor Boulevard.                                                                  Page 37: How Estée Lauder capitalised on the enthusiasm of
                Crossways, Kent DA2 6SL                                                                                                          youth in China by appealing to a younger market.
                Printed by Stephens & George Print Group                                   How a decorative finish can increase shelf appeal

                                                                                            Luxury • Connectivity • Design • Brand protection
                                                                                                                                                     Visit www.pci-mag.com

                                                                                                                                                Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com                      3

CPI002_101_Foreword.indd 3                                                                                                                                                                                    16/07/2018 12:25
Cosmetics Packaging - How a decorative finish can increase shelf appeal Packaging & Converting Intelligence
Contents

                      In this issue...                                                                                              Cosmetics
                                                                                                                                              Packaging          I   N    S   I     G     H
                                                                                                                                                                         SUMME R              T

                      Cover story
                                                                                                                                                                                   2018

                                                                                                                                    How a deco
                                                                                                                                                 rative finish
                                                                                                                                                                 can increase
                                                                                                                                                                                    shelf appe
                                                                                                                                    Luxury •
                                                                                                                                                                                                      al
                                                                                                                                             Connectivi
                                                                                                                                                        ty   • Design
                                                                                                                                                                      • Brand
                                                                                                                                                                              prote           ction

                                            32
              Decorative finishes are more than a superficial touch-up; they help to establish prominence and a core market.

              6       Data projection                          13 Time to get serious                                 counterfeit cosmetic case. We
                      Using stats from GlobalData,                  Airopack                                          uncover the dark issue of black
                      Cosmetics Packaging Insight                                                                     market beauty and speaks with
                      takes an in-depth look at changing       14 Linerless labels that                               brands that are doing everything
                      market trends in relation to                save on materials                                   to protect their consumers.
                      countries and brands, and assess              Artimelt
                      where value will be found going                                                            21 Security authentication
                      forward. In future editions, we will     15 On their soapbox                                  for better tracking
                      be taking a closer look at the three          Premiumisation is no longer the                   MicroTag Temed
                      biggest markets – China, Brazil               preserve of products with high-
                      and the UK – to learn more about              price tags. Matthew Rogerson                 22 Jenner capital
                      their key drivers.                            reaches out to cosmetics                          Launched in November 2015 by
                                                                    executives from premium brands                    Kylie Jenner, the eponymous Kylie
              9       Head and shoulders above                      for their thoughts on how they                    Cosmetics has become one of the
                      The problem of plastic waste and              develop, design and define                        fastest-growing beauty brands in
                      marine litter has been widespread             exclusivity in beauty.                            the world, with a $900-million
                      in public discussion in 2018, and                                                               revenue recently announced by
                      many leading companies are               18 Flawed beauty                                       Forbes, Cosmetics Packaging Insight
                      doing their part to resolve the               The beauty industry lost over $45                 examines how leveraging social
                      problem. We gather understanding              billion to counterfeit products in                media has created and crafted this
                      from the sustainability and                   2017, and the scale of the problem                popular cosmetics company.
                      packaging teams at Procter &                  grows exponentially when trying
                      Gamble, to learn more about how               to account for unreported, online            25 Window of luxury
                      innovation can play a part.                   or intangible losses that follow a                Sampling Innovations Europe

                  4    Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com

CPI002_102_Contents.indd 4                                                                                                                                                                                 16/07/2018 12:27
Cosmetics Packaging - How a decorative finish can increase shelf appeal Packaging & Converting Intelligence
Contents

                                                      22 37
                   Celebrities can leverage fame to
                     endorse and create products.

                                                                Estée Lauder has launched lipstick in conjunction with a Chinese
                                                                television show, capturing a new and youthful audience for its products.

                                                               29 Delivering fast-response                    35 Putting personal-care
                                                                  cosmetic solutions                             brands ahead of the pack
                                                                  RPC Bramlage Division                            Codimag

                                                               31 The future of foils                         37 New faces
                                                                  Univacco                                         Estée Lauder has successfully
                                                                                                                   revamped its image in China, from
                                                               32 Fashion finishes first                           a luxury brand for older women into
                                                                  Decorative finishes are more than                a youthful brand positioned for a
                                                                  the final touch for packaging                    younger audience. In doing so, the
                                                                  design, at once offering consumers               company recorded a 40% increase in
              26 The right stuff                                  more while defining a product’s                  sales there, compared with a 5% rise
                    Paul Howells, former vice-president           marketing design and core                        in its other markets in Q4 2017.
                    for packaging at Unilever, has an             demographic. This article focuses
                    appreciation for good design and              on how elaborate and decorative             43 My kind of city
                    an expertise in how to merge the              finishes are aiding brands in the                ADF&PCD New York 2018 is set
                    technical needs of packaging with             quest to gain prominence among                   to deliver more brands, content
                    the consumer trends and aesthetics            considerable competition.                        and interactivity.
                    required for brand-leading design.
                    He discusses design’s role in

                                                                43
                                                                                                          ADF has a plethora of free-to-attend interactive
                    packaging’s future.                                                                   workshops and seminars with industry pioneers.

              26
                         An expert look at merging technical
                         needs and consumer trends to
                         create a brand-leading design.

                                                                                        Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com                    5

CPI002_102_Contents.indd 5                                                                                                                                   16/07/2018 12:27
Cosmetics Packaging - How a decorative finish can increase shelf appeal Packaging & Converting Intelligence
The intelligence > Market analysis

               Data
                projection
               Using stats from GlobalData, Cosmetics Packaging Insight takes an in-depth look at
               changing market trends in relation to countries and brands, and asses where value will
               be found going forward. In future editions, we will be taking a closer look at the three
               biggest markets – China, Brazil and the UK – to learn more about their key drivers.

               C
                        urrently, across the four key     in the beauty or grooming products         efficient personal-care solutions.
                        areas – ingredients, claims,      they buy, according to recent surveys.     Ethical claims, such as ‘sustainably
                        labels and packaging – there      Therefore, it becomes important for        sourced’ and ‘vegan’, will remain in
               are important statuses to consider.        brands to provide ingredient lists         vogue, as brands try to increase their
               With ingredients, there is increasing      – as well as allergen information –        appeal across a diverse user segment.
               demand for high-performance                on labels.                                 With the growing desire for simple
               cosmetics that not only nourish,             With busy consumer lifestyles            and clean labelling, the demand
               but address specific issues, such as       and rising usage on the go,                for products with clear on-pack
               hair loss, dull skin or dark spots. This   convenient, effective and single-use       communication will gain momentum.
               has led to the emergence of products       pack formats have gained popularity        For instance, using simple language
               with active ingredients, vitamins          in the personal-care industry.             or recognisable ingredients along
               and minerals. Distaste for artificial      Manufacturers of cosmetics and             with scientific names will increase
               ingredients has also prompted growth       toiletries are focusing on innovations     product appeal and build trust
               in the use of natural ingredients.         such as spray-on and roll-on.              through transparency.
                                                                                                        Finally, manufacturers will continue
                                                                                                     to innovate with new formats, designs
                 An increasing number of companies in the                                            and value-added packaging features
               cosmetics and toiletries industry are hopping                                         for cosmetics and toiletries, enhancing
               on the ‘green’ bandwagon, packaging their                                             user experience. Additionally, the
                                                                                                     consumer desire to reduce household
               products in recycled or recyclable materials.                                         waste from packaging will spur
                                                                                                     manufacturers to focus on sustainable
                 Functional claims, such as UV               In the future, ingredients              packaging, such as recycled materials
               defence and anti-ageing, are being         brands will increasingly incorporate       and paperboard, as well as
               used to make cosmetics and toiletries      superfoods, such as probiotics and         biodegradable plastics.
               appealing to consumers who seek            products deemed to be naturally
               quick and effective results. Producers     nourishing to the skin and hair.           Grand central stats
               are also capitalising on free-from         Additionally, in order to gain clean       In 2017, the global cosmetics and
               claims to build an ethically and           label positioning, the influence of        toiletries industry was valued at
               socially conscious brand image for         regional beauty regimen will drive         $412 billion, led by Asia-Pacific and
               consumers who look for personal-care       the use of ingredients such as snail       the Americas, which accounted for
               products that share their ideals. In       essence, yogurt, argon oil, jojoba,        value shares of 37.6 and 32.4%,
               labelling, as consumers become more        black pine and wild rose. Future           respectively. An improving global
               savvy and aware of the numerous            product claims will follow the clean       economy, driven by strong economic
               complex ingredients used in                label trend and a continued interest       growth in the emerging markets and
               cosmetics and toiletries, they are         in organic products.                       the subsequent rise in disposable
               increasingly reading product labels.          Functional claims, such as ‘pollution   income levels, is the major growth
               As many as 42% of consumers pay            protection’ and ‘sweat-defence’, will      driver. Skincare was the largest sector,
               close attention to the ingredients used    see a rise, given consumers desire for     with a value share of 28.2% in 2017,

                  6    Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com

CPI002_103_Market Intelligence.indd 6                                                                                                           13/07/2018 15:09
Cosmetics Packaging - How a decorative finish can increase shelf appeal Packaging & Converting Intelligence
The intelligence > Market analysis

               followed by haircare and make-up,
               which accounted for value shares of             Key sectors by value ($ millions), 2017 versus 2022
               16.9 and 11.5%, respectively.
                                                                            2017                                       2022
               Growth drivers
               across the globe
               ■ High participation of women
                 in the global labour force –
                 currently 49.5% – will continue
                 to support growth in the
                 industry, as women become
                 more appearance-conscious.
               ■ Rising consumer confidence
                 across major global markets,
                 coupled with the high-spending
                 habits of millennials, who
                 specifically spend to improve                                                 Colour key guide
                 their appearances, drive sales                             Skincare              (2017) 28.2%         (2022) 29.5%
                 for cosmetics and toiletries.                              Haircare              (2017) 16.9%         (2022) 16.7%
               ■ Strong growth in the air travel                            Make-up               (2017) 11.5%         (2022) 11.3%
                 industry, with international travel                        Personal hygiene      (2017) 11.5%         (2022) 11.1%
                 rising by 6.7%, and the subsequent                         Fragrances            (2017) 9.3%          (2022) 8.8%
                 rise in travel retail remained a                           Oral hygiene          (2017) 8.7%          (2022) 8.4%
                 major driver for luxury brands,                            Feminine hygiene      (2017) 7.3%          (2022) 7.6%
                 such as L’Oréal and Estée Lauder.                          Others                (2017) 6.7%          (2022) 6.6%

               Latest developments                         ■    As consumers seek more                  increasingly pursue cosmetics with
               ■ An increasing number of                        information about the products          organic labels – often perceived to be
                 cosmetics and personal-care                    they use, companies must focus          safer for consumers and better for the
                 companies are hopping onto the                 more on ingredient traceability,        planet. However, natural oils and
                 ‘green’ bandwagon, packaging                   which is challenging by virtue of       esters do not deliver the same level
                 their products with recycled or                the globalisation of supply chains.     of performance that consumers have
                 recyclable materials. For instance,                                                    come to expect from beauty products
                 P&G developed a recyclable bottle         Demand for transparency                      made with petrochemicals. Therefore,
                 for its Head & Shoulders line,            in ingredient labelling                      identifying natural ingredients that
                 and Dior launched Hydra Life              Consumers increasingly demand                guarantee safety, efficacy and a
                 in lightweight glass packaging.           ‘traceability’ of ingredients and            long shelf life on par with synthetic
               ■ Rising consumer desire for a              an emphasis on corporate social              ingredients continues to be a
                 premium experience is driving             responsibility when it comes to              challenge for ‘natural’ formulations
                 manufacturers to use expensive            chemical ingredients being used              of cosmetics and toiletries.
                 and luxurious ingredients, such           in personal-care products, owing
                 as gold, caviar and diamonds in           to concerns over their safety. With          Consumer desire to look
                 their cosmetic products.                  retail giants, including Walmart and         ‘good from within’
                                                           Target, announcing new chemical              As consumers begin to grasp the
               Future inhibitors                           policies that require suppliers to           significance of diet in order to look
               ■    With governments focusing              list ingredients on the product              their best, there is a growing demand
                    on reducing the environmental          labels as well as on their websites,         for ‘ingestible beauty’, which poses
                    impact of cosmetics,                   manufacturers of cosmetics and               a threat to cosmetics and toiletries as
                    manufacturers could be required        toiletries will be under pressure to         consumers seek to reduce dependence
                    to alter their product formulations.   ensure the use of natural ingredients        on them. In addition, mounting
                    For instance, the Swedish              in order to stay relevant.                   evidence of a strong link between
                    Government plans to introduce                                                       a healthy gut and skin condition is
                    legislations to reduce the use of      Challenges of                                driving interest in consumption of
                    substances such as triclosan and       ‘natural’ formulations                       probiotic-rich foods, such as yogurt,
                    triclocarban in cosmetics, as they     As consumers grow conscious of the           miso and sauerkraut, deemed to
                    are harmful to the environment.        consequences of their choices, they          revitalise the skin. This desire to look

                                                                                   Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com             7

CPI002_103_Market Intelligence.indd 7                                                                                                              13/07/2018 09:17
Cosmetics Packaging - How a decorative finish can increase shelf appeal Packaging & Converting Intelligence
The intelligence > Market analysis

                  Top ten high-potential countries from GlobalData’s opportunity index

                                        Value in 2017         CAGR
                  Country                                                                           Key issues                                   Opportunity score
                                         ($ million)        2017–22 (%)

                                                                                The recent political tensions in the Korean Peninsula
                  South Korea              12,569               4.6          have had an impact on consumer confidence. Moreover,                      43.2
                                                                           tourist arrivals dipped drastically as political tensions escalated

                                                                                 Increasing political uncertainty and challenging
                  China                    70,455               8.0                                                                                    40.7
                                                                                economic reforms are slowing economic growth

                                                                                 High dependency on oil, in addition to conflict
                  Saudi Arabia              4,184               4.2                                                                                    43.1
                                                                                 with Iran, presents a challenge to the country

                                                                              High income inequality presents a major social and
                  Colombia                  3,329               4.0          economic barrier to growth, despite the government’s                      33.0
                                                                                       recent efforts to reduce poverty

                                                                            A shrinking workforce, given that baby boomers account
                                                                           for approximately one third of the population, coupled with
                  Canada                    7,620               2.6                                                                                    31.4
                                                                                      low birth rates is expected to create
                                                                                          a large gap in the workforce

                                                                               A high corruption rate and high unemployment are
                  Brazil                   36,519               3.2                                                                                    30.5
                                                                                  impacting social and economic development

                                                                            Consumer confidence remains low, following the Brexit
                  Netherlands               3,858               2.4                                                                                    29.2
                                                                                   vote, resulting in weak consumption

                                                                               Decline in capital inflows and inward investment is
                  UK                       15,711               2.2                                                                                    28.1
                                                                               impacting the economic prosperity of the country

                                                                                 Factors such as low oil prices and reduced
                  Russia                   10,024               3.6          investment confidence, in addition to rising inflation,                   33.8
                                                                                    are impacting economic development

                                                                                      The ongoing political unrest presents
                  Poland                    4,146               3.2                                                                                    31.3
                                                                                    a challenging environment for businesses

               good from within could influence               packaging waste, they increasingly                        GlobalData has created an
               the way consumers use cosmetics                demand recyclable and reusable                          aggregated scoring system to rank
               and toiletries.                                packaging. Coupled with the rise                        rewards and risks, and identify the
                                                              of mandatory regulations on making                      top opportunity markets. Rewards are
               Mounting pressure                              resource conservation and climate                       quantified by current industry value
               With organisations such as Cruelty Free        protection a priority, manufacturers                    and forecast growth. Risk quantifies
               International challenging the cosmetics        are under pressure to invest in ‘green’                 the potential for market disruption
               industry to go cruelty free by 2021 and        packaging materials. With consumers                     and uncertainty across a range of
               urging regulators to set a deadline to         not willing to pay more for eco-                        topics, including political issues,
               phase out animal testing of cosmetics          friendly products, manufacturers                        corruption, price inflation and
               worldwide, the industry is under               are faced with tighter profit margins                   urbanisation. The aim of this is to fully
               pressure to find alternative testing           owing to rising production costs                        consider the attractiveness of the
               methods. Furthermore, the European             from using eco-friendly materials.                      industry and rank it accordingly.
               Court of Justice has ruled that cosmetics                                                                As the aim of this initial and ongoing
               tested on animals outside the EU cannot        How have the countries in                               report is to identify the high-potential
               be sold within the EU. This ruling puts        this report been selected                               countries, the ranking system assigns
               further pressure on manufacturers to           and scored?                                             weighting factors of 70 and 30% to
               create cruelty-free products, irrespective     GlobalData has selected the ten                         reward and risk analysis, respectively.
               of the intended market.                        countries identified in this report                     The reward and risk factors are
                                                              from a pool of the top 50 economies                     assigned further weight based on
               Prioritising sustainability                    globally. Using GlobalData’s unique                     their importance. The aforementioned
               As consumers turn eco-conscious,               ranking system, the top ten                             GlobalData opportunity score is
               given the rising awareness of the              opportunities for the industry                          ranked low to high, with higher scores
               ecological damage caused by                    were identified.                                        indicating greater reward or less risk.

                  8    Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com

CPI002_103_Market Intelligence.indd 8                                                                                                                                13/07/2018 09:18
Cosmetics Packaging - How a decorative finish can increase shelf appeal Packaging & Converting Intelligence
Insight > Sustainability

              Head and
              shoulders                                                        above
              The problem of plastic waste and marine litter has been widespread in
              public discussion in 2018, and many leading companies are doing their part
              to resolve the problem. Cosmetics Packaging Insight
              gathers understanding from the sustainability and
              packaging teams in Procter & Gamble, to
              learn more about how innovation
              can play a part.

                                                                                                                                          recovery
                                                                                                                                           and end
                                                                                                                                           markets in
                                                                                                                                           place. By
                                                                                                                                           2025, all
                                                                                                                                          of our major
                                                                                                                                         packaging
                                                                                                                                       platforms will
                                                                                                                                    be recyclable
                                                                                                                                or reusable.”
                                                                                                                              P&G CEO, chairman

              P
                       rocter & Gamble (P&G) has                                                          and president David Taylor said, “We
                       pledged to make all of its                                                         believe P&G can be a force for good and
                       packaging recyclable or reusable      The company wrote in its report, “In         a force for growth, and we are taking a
              by 2025. This will encompass about 95%      the absence of a globally aligned definition    more deliberate approach to delighting
              of packaging materials used and will be     of recyclable, our definition goes beyond       consumers while enabling responsible
              possible thanks to new package designs,     the technical ability to recycle an item        consumption. Consumers expect the
              a more sustainable material choice and      and calls for a recycling system to be          brands they trust to deliver superior
              cooperation with sustainability experts.    operational at scale, with viable collection,   performance and help solve some of the

                                                                                     Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com                  9

CPI002_104_Proctor&Gamble.indd 9                                                                                                                         13/07/2018 15:08
Cosmetics Packaging - How a decorative finish can increase shelf appeal Packaging & Converting Intelligence
Insight > Sustainability

              most complex challenges facing our world.
              Our global reach, our understanding of the
              five billion consumers we serve and our
              innovation capabilities give us a unique
              ability to make a positive difference.”
                  Ambition 2030 is an amendment to
              P&G’s previous sustainability goals, which
              were to be achieved by 2020. Although
              the corporation reached some of these
              goals (for example, reducing energy use
              at its facilities per unit of production by
              22%) it looks like there is still a lot to do.
                  In its previous plan, P&G pledged to
              cut absolute greenhouse emissions by 30%
              by 2020. So far, it has only cut them by 16%.
              It also committed to doubling the use of
              recycled resin in plastic packaging, though       In France, Head & Shoulders released a bottle made from PCR plastics recovered from French beaches.
              it is yet to achieve two thirds of that target.
                  P&G vice-president of global                     “Some of the latest examples in                  recycling plants that are equipped with
              sustainability Virginie Helias said, “Building    beauty that come to mind include our                the requisite technologies. Impacted
              on our progress to date, our 2030 goals           newly acquired natural segment brands,              supply chain members, such as waste
              seek to address two of the world’s most           Native, a natural deodarent, and                    manufactures (including sorting plants and
              pressing environmental challenges: finite         Snowberry, a skincare product – both                recyclers) will need to retro-fit machinery,
              resources and growing consumption.”               from New Zealand.                                   which requires additional investment.”
                                                                                                                       He continued, “This needs to be done

                 Our 2030 goals seek to address two of the                                                          across all EU member states and beyond.
                                                                                                                    Harmonisation addresses the need to reach
              world’s most pressing environmental challenges:                                                       the increased recycling rates necessary
              finite resources and growing consumption.                                                             to achieve circular economies. The goal
                                                                                                                    of the ‘Holy Grail’ project, which is run as
              – Virginie Helias, P&G
                                                                                                                    a pioneer project within the New Plastics
                 As P&G continues its efforts and moves            “In haircare, we launched Herbal                 Economy, is to bring together the value
              towards its ambitious goals, there are going      Bio:Renew, which is made with a blend of            chain and agree on what a value tracer or
              to be challenges, as Helias acknowledges,         antioxidants, aloe and sea kelp, and is free        watermark could bring to the industry in
              “One of the biggest challenges is that this       of parabens, dyes and gluten. We launched           order to consider the scenarios where this
              whole call to action relies on collaboration.     Rejoice Micellar Water in China, which is           technology should be implemented first.”
              We are in this task force, aptly called           a non-silicone shampoo and conditioner.                 “In addition, eco-design and high-
              ‘Holy Grail’, which is about using tracer         We are launching Pantene Micellar to bring          quality or quantity post-consumer
              technology to better sort plastic, meaning        the same benefits of a gentle cleansing             recycled materials (PCR) are a big focus
              the end value is higher because it’s better       shampoo and conditioner that removes                of all value chain members that need to
              sorted. These are things we’ve never done         impurities, but with no silicones, parabens         develop packs for circular design, while
              before. We need to build the capability there,    and dyes.”                                          still meeting the primary objectives of a
              and we need to have a new mindset of                                                                  pack for containment. There is a need for
              it being a shared obligation. It’s not just       Sorting the mess                                    an objective assessment of recyclability.
              competition and innovation; we need to            Equally optimistic about the work and               Take the RecyClass tool, which was
              participate in these societal collaboration       direction it is taking is Gian de Belder,           developed by Plastic Recyclers Europe
              efforts. We cannot succeed alone, and             principal scientist, who added a few                and combines all existing EU guidelines
              neither can individual partners. We can           additional remarks on key developments              for compliance. There is also a need for
              only get where we need to go together.”           in plastics using tracer or watermark               more high-quality recycled materials at
                 She added, “P&G continues to innovate          sorting for recycling.                              the right cost, quantity and quality. P&G’s
              to develop new products that grow                    “Sorting technologies have the potential         strategy is to double PCR use by 2020,
              the relevance of our brands with the              to create what we refer to as a ‘barcode            and we are continuously looking for
              increasingly environmentally concerned            for recycling’,” as he explained. “By baking        partners in this field.”
              shopper. We do this without a performance         tracers or watermarks into packaging, the              One of the most recent high-visibility
              trade-off so consumers continue to get the        product isn’t altered in the eyes of the            launches by P&G in this sector was
              results they expect from P&G brands.              consumer but will add value at sorting and          based on the limited edition release from

               10    Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com

CPI002_104_Proctor&Gamble.indd 10                                                                                                                                     13/07/2018 09:20
Insight > Sustainability

              Carrefour, in France, of Head & Shoulders
              bottles made from PCR beach plastic.               Progressive P&G: some of the most recent
                 Helias said, “The project with Head
                                                                 product launches, from Product Launch Analytics
              & Shoulders is a very concrete sign to
                                                                                       Secret Freshies On-The-Go – Paris Rose, Luxe
              customers, consumers and governments                                     Lavender, Cool Waterlily, Chill Ocean
              that we care about plastics and, specifically,                           New Secret Freshies On-The-Go antiperspirant deodorant has
              plastics in the ocean. We had not set                                    arrived on the market in the US. Designed specifically for women
              out to do anything more than provide                                     on the go, the invisible solid antiperspirant and deodorant is
                                                                                       uniquely packaged in a small, discreet, portable ball with a twist-
              an experiment. We had no idea whether
                                                                                       off cap for quick and easy swiping application. It can be stored in
              people would be interested or not. Many                                  most purses, backpacks, gym bags, clutches or desk drawers.
              design changes, such as amending the                                     Today’s consumers are busier than ever, making a strong market
              iconic brand colours for the bottle, caused                              opportunity for products aimed for use on the go. In the case
                                                                                       of this deodorant, women can quickly and easily reapply it
              initial consternation. But it paid off with
                                                                                       throughout busy days for a burst of freshness and odour control,
              top ten sales wherever we piloted the new          wherever they might be. P&G distributes Paris Rose, Luxe Lavender, Cool Waterlily and
              product. There was also amazing work               Chill Ocean scent options in 0.5oz plastic blisters within paperboard sleeves for $4.97.
              from the retailers in helping us get people
                                                                                         Hair Food – Kiwi & Exotic Fig
              in-store, because consumers need a little
                                                                                         In Canada, P&G has launched a new Kiwi & Exotic Fig
              education around what this is about. Also,                                 volume shampoo under the Hair Food label. The formula
              we allowed people to participate in the                                    is inspired by ‘fresh, energy-packed ingredients known for
              beach collection – there was a beach clean-                                their vitalising power’. The shampoo is described as having
                                                                                         a fragrance of kiwi and exotic fig to cleanse hair and leave
              up where you could go and participate.
                                                                                         it with luxurious body and shine. It is also free from silicone,
              We had 1,000 volunteers to collect plastic                                 paraben and mineral oil. The roll-out of this shampoo is
              from French beaches.”                                                      based on the idea that the hair needs nourishment, just as
                                                                                         the body does. Thus, natural power foods found in nutrition
              Getting involved                                                           can be beneficial in haircare formulas as well. The prominent
                                                                                         ‘free-from’ claims and natural food ingredients in this product
              This further highlights an increasingly            could resonate with Canadian consumers. A 530ml plastic pump bottle retails
              important part of sustainability, which is         for C$9.98.
              consumer interaction. Frustration is one
              of the biggest issues for today’s shoppers,                                          Old Spice – Captain, Bearglove, Swagger, Fiji
                                                                                                   While not uncommon, the ‘invisible spray’ versus
              who question plastic litter and its ecological                                       ‘invisible solid’ versions of anti-perspirant and
              impact but might feel they can’t do                                                  deodorant are making their way onto store shelves in
              anything about it. But as Helias says,                                               specific scents to appeal to the just-for-me consumer,
              sustainability does not need to be daunting                                          fitting into the individualism trend. One example is Old
                                                                                                   Spice’s 48Hr Anti-Perspirant Deodorant Invisible Spray,
              or inaccessible, “We tell our customers that
                                                                                                   which comes in Captain, Bearglove, Swagger and Fiji
              visually, you are not going to clean the           variants. An established brand targeted at men, this range offers the consumer
              ocean, but just by recycling your Head &           invisible, long-lasting protection from sweat and odour. Distributed in the US by P&G,
              Shoulders bottle, this is how you can help         each variety is sold in a 3.8oz aerosol spray can for $5.49.
              and be part of the circular economy. This is
              very rewarding for people. We have tangible
              signs that there is interest and we want to      sustainability leader at P&G. “We’ve been           “At P&G, we believe actions speak
              take it to the next level.”                      fortunate to work with great partners, in        louder than words. The increased
                 The project is in partnership with            TerraCycle and SUEZ, to make this target         use of PCR plastic across our haircare
              recycling experts TerraCycle and SUEZ.           a reality.”                                      portfolio of brands demonstrates our
              It will be the world’s largest production run       Also, P&G announced that, in Europe,          continued commitment to driving real
              of recyclable bottles made with PCR beach        by the end of 2018, more than half a billion     change,” concluded Helias, “The Head
              plastic, and the first step in establishing      bottles per year will include up to 25% PCR      & Shoulders recyclable shampoo bottle
              a unique supply chain that involves the          plastic. This represents more than 90% of all    made with beach plastic is a world’s first
              support of thousands of volunteers and           haircare bottles sold in Europe. The project     in the haircare category. Increasing the
              hundreds of NGOs collecting plastic waste        will require 2,600t of recycled plastic every    use of recycled plastic in the packaging
              found on beaches.                                year – the same weight as eight fully loaded     of our flagship brands, like Pantene and
                 “We felt that the leading shampoo             Boeing 747s. P&G has been using PCR              Head & Shoulders, makes it easier for
              brand in sales should lead in sustainability     plastic in packaging for over 25 years, and      consumers to choose more sustainable
              innovation, because when we do this, it          the announcement is an important step in         products, without any trade-offs. So while
              encourages the entire industry to do the         the company’s journey to meet its 2020 goal      we’re proud of what we’ve done and
              same,” said Lisa Jennings, vice-president        of doubling the tonnage of PCR plastic used      what we’re doing, we know there is much
              at Head & Shoulders and global haircare          in packaging.                                    more work ahead.”

                                                                                         Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com                   11

CPI002_104_Proctor&Gamble.indd 11                                                                                                                             13/07/2018 09:21
Time to get serious...
       The clock is ticking...
       At Airopack we take the health of our planet seriously.               Airopack’s unique Pressure Control Device is a far
       Our engineers have made a commitment to making                        superior delivery system to petrol propellants or
       things better. Together with our global customers                     pumps. All of the content is used resulting in Zero
       we have developed a Planet Friendly aerosol. An                       Waste Airopack requires fewer raw materials in
       aerosol that is driven by pure air.                                   manufacture, consumes less energy in production
                                                                             and transporation. Result: much lower CO2 emission.
       Airopack contains no propellants, just cream, lotion or               Airopack doesn’t contain harmful gases, petroleum
       spray and pure, clean air. Each transparent Airopack is               based propellants. Nothing but 100% pure, clean air.
       created from transparent plastics only, which in turn
       makes every Airopack aerosol completely different                     Good things happen when you think Airopack.
       from any other aerosol system.                                        Good for you and good for the planet.

             Want to know more about Airopack? Contact us now: T +31 416 22 40 40, E info@airopack.com, I www.airopack.com
                              Airopack Headquarters: Van Hilststraat 21, 5145 RK Waalwijk, The Netherlands

Airopack.indd 1                                                                                                              12/07/2018 09:58
Company insight

               Time to get serious
               Airopack offers an environmentally friendly alternative to the traditional aerosol spray
               that is powered entirely by air, rather than a gas propellant and chemicals. This can
               reduce the product’s carbon footprint by 30%, and provides better packaging that is
               also safe and sustainable.

               I
                    t’s time to seek a serious, practical alternative to the       n    There is a broad range of nozzles and packs of varying
                    traditional aerosol – a smarter alternative that’s better           volumes available. You can make Airopack your pack
                    for the planet and the people who populate it. Products             for your brand, product and identity.
               that are currently dispensed by an aerosol or pump spray,           n    Off the shelf sizes of 35–200ml, ideal for all products,
               can be dispensed by Airopack. Airopack’s broader business                from skin creams to air fresheners, are available.
               benefits go far beyond simply being better packaging,               n    Creating your own individual brand look and feel is
               because of the safety and sustainability.                                possble. As well as a broad range of standard
                                                                                        formulations, Airopack will happily work with
               People and planet-friendly                                               customers to create custom formulations and solutions.
               Contents are added to a traditional aerosol can in liquid           n    The revolutionary worldwide patented Airopack
               form, such as shaving cream, deodorant or salad oils,                    technology offers a safe pressurised dispenser that’s
               which is then sealed. A gas propellant – commonly                        planet-friendly with no unnecessary waste and, by
               butane, isobutane or propane – is then added through                     eliminating chemical propellants, there are no
               a valve system and pumped into the can at high pressure.                 inhalation risks.
               This propels the liquid upward and through the spray
               nozzle. Although butane and propane have largely replaced           It’s surprising what we can do together
               chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs), there are still many chemicals          Airopack is a smarter alternative that’s better for the planet and
               associated with traditional aerosols.                               the people who populate it. And with this ternary of services,
                  Airopack is the planet-friendly, virtually all-plastic aerosol   formulation, packaging and filling, clients are provided with a
               that’s powered purely by air. The company has managed to            one-stop solution for their product:
               reduce the carbon footprint of each Airopack by 30%,                n Airosolutions: Airopack offers a total solution for
               because there are no harmful gases or other pollutants                  each of its customers with its formulation and filling
               inside. Each transparent Airopack is mainly manufactured                partner in Europe: Airosolutions. By pooling experience
               from recyclable plastic (PET). There are no gas propellants or          and sharing thoughts, it develops bespoke solutions and
               chemicals – just an ingeniously designed pressure control               services, from trend watching, formulation development,
               device, the product and pure clean air. You can spray the               packaging development, graphic design, pack filling,
               product 360° at any angle. What could be more natural?                  packaging and logistics. Customers decide what’s right
                                                                                       for them, their brand or their company. But however large
                  Airopack is the planet-friendly,                                     or small the project, you’ll be amazed by what you can

               virtually all-plastic aerosol that’s                                    achieve together.
                                                                                   n Airofiller: allows customers to fill the planet-friendly
               powered purely by air. The company                                      aerosol at their own chosen location as well. Airofiller creates
               has managed to reduce the carbon                                        a complete bespoke ‘filling facility’ on-site for their Airopack
                                                                                       within just eight weeks. As well as dramatically cutting the
               footprint of each Airopack by 30%,                                      costs of logistics, they can benefit from their own Airopack
               because there are no harmful gases                                      packaging and filling unit on-site. It’s a simple one-stop
               or other pollutants inside.                                             solution. Set and control your own production volumes
                                                                                       and launch your products far more efficiently.
               Think possibilities
               Airopack works wonderfully with sprays and creams of                   Together with partners Airosolutions and Airofiller,
               virtually every style and formulation. From ultra-fine mists        Airopack aims to provide a total solution for everyone who
               to rich and creamy viscosities, there’s a wide range of             is searching for a practical, planet-friendly alternative for the
               nozzles to suit everything from air-sprays to hand creams.          traditional aerosol.
               Unlike a ‘pump spray’, there’s no need to press the nozzle
               several times before use.
                 Airopack’s pressure control device provides a smooth,                 Further information
                                                                                       Airopack
               uninterrupted flow, and an end to splutters and ‘stop, start,           www.airopack.com
               stop’, as well as several other benefits:

                                                                                       Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com               13

CPI002_Airopack.indd 13                                                                                                                                   13/07/2018 09:37
Company insight

               Linerless labels that
               save on materials
               Hot melt adhesive company artimelt has created a new adhesive product line – artimeltlinerless –
               that reduces material waste, saves on cost and cuts down on cleaning time for the cutting blade.

               T
                         he use of linerless labels has steadily increased in recent            considerable downtime costs. Atimeltlinerless adhesives are
                         years. The variety of application possibilities are developing         checked by manufacturers of such systems and come out on
                         all the time and the growth potential for these labels is              top in terms of performance.
               massive. Artimelt has 20 years of experience and knows what                         Linerless is not only used for standard large packs and self-
               counts in this application field. As a manufacturer of high-grade                service scales in retail outlets, but also increasingly for packing
               hot melt adhesives, the company developed artimeltlinerless as                   and labelling cosmetic products. Artimeltlinerless is the most
               a dedicated product line offering a range of solutions in this area.             popular adhesive product in the linerless adhesive sector – not to
                  Most of the self-adhesive labels available on the market are                  mention one of the best. Leading labelling machine manufacturers
               made from classic self-adhesive laminate. A major disadvantage                   recommend artimeltlinerless because of the negligible soiling of
               is the non-recyclable material waste. The perfect solution would,                the cutting blade. Interruptions for cleaning are massively reduced
               therefore, be labels that do not have to be punched and do not                   and the product’s outstanding workability leaves virtually nothing
               need a backing. Alongside the many tons of waste that would                      to be desired. Less waste and more usable material per reel will
               be avoided, this would also mean a reduction of material costs                   increase efficiency for the customer.
               by up to 30%.
                  As the label is not printed and cut until the point of sale when
               used in this way, special adhesives are required that do not                        Further information
                                                                                                   artimelt
               soil the printheads and cutters. Shutting down the system to                        www.artimelt.com/linerlesss
               have it cleaned causes an unnecessary loss of time and thus

                artimeltlinerless
                Linerless applications for
                food · beverage ·
                cosmetics · logistics

                             increasing sustainable and ecological performance

                                                                   Your key advantages
                                     · leader in linerless adhesives   · 30% less material costs             · no release liner and matrix waste
                                     · excellent cutting properties    · up to 60% more labels per reel      · more than 20 years of experience

                «By incorporating artimelt linerless hot melt into our application chain, we were able                              for more information contact
                to reduce waste and cleaning downtime significantly. That pays off.»                                                Wolfgang Aufmuth
                Customer · Switzerland                                                                                              T +41 41 926 05 00
                                                                                                                                    artimelt.com

           Artimelt.indd 3                                                                                                                              03/05/2018 15:23

                 14       Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com

CPI002_Artimelt.indd 14                                                                                                                                                    13/07/2018 09:39
Insight > Luxury

               On their
                                    soapbox
               Premiumisation is no longer the preserve of products with high price tags. Matthew
               Rogerson reached out to cosmetics executives from premium brands for their thoughts
               on how they develop, design and define exclusivity in beauty.

               G
                           race Fodor, founder of innovative
                           cult make-up brand Studio 10, is
                           on a mission to redefine beauty
               for women as they age. It’s a position that
               no other brand in premium make-up has
               taken up in earnest, creating an opportunity
               that’s paying dividends for the company.
                  “For me, the company is a voice
                                                               All companies identify packaging as crucial to brand recognition and loyalty.
               advocating being truly visible and
               confident,” she says. “The range                movement to challenge the assumptions                brushes delivering both volume and
               is designed specifically for women as they      or stereotypes of middle-age, which are              separation. Or the Armani To Go Cushion
               age, at a time when 74% feel that existing      misrepresentative of the individual, has             Foundation, with its airtight case to protect
               products do not reflect their needs.”           given us a huge competitive advantage.               the sensitive formula, and Lancôme’s
                                                               Coupled with being a brand 100%                      Genefique Sensitive skincare, which allows
               Ageless beauty                                  developed by women for women, we                     immediate delivery in a single pressure-
               Reaching these consumers via digital            will be taking an even more active role in           booster. Additionally, in haircare, there’s
               channels has been at the heart of Studio        not only consuming products, but in the              Power Mix, from L’Oréal Professionnel’s
               10’s success. It allows the company to          creation, production and even distribution.”         expert line, which enables the hairdresser
               reach an older demographic who feel that                                                             to offer their client a personalised hair
               retail does not offer them personalised         The age of discovery                                 treatment that is blended under their eyes.”
               products and who lack the confidence to         L’Oréal Packaging had a very busy year in               As for what to expect in the rest of 2018,
               approach assistants who might be decades        2017, with more than 600 moulds created              Thuvien was very excited by the recent
               younger than them. Fodor’s approach             and 90 patents filed. It was a great year for        developments and direction of the
               is to build strong, personal and direct         innovation too, with many eco-designed               company – including grouping the design
               relationships. She continues, “People like      innovations, which identified the                    team within the packaging team to better
               interacting and buying from other people        environment as being a major concern in              design and develop consumer-centric
               more than from faceless brands. Being           the strategy of the L’Oréal Group. This is           packaging that delights customers and
               behind the brand, I hope women can              all part of the plan, according to Philippe          enhances the occasion, citing that more
               identify, relate and have real conversations    Thuvien, packaging and development                   than 700 projects will be created in
               with me. To do this requires using all          director of L’Oréal Group.                           product design during 2018.
               channels and media available, on and offline,      “Clearly, packaging innovation is
               and tailoring all communication as we go.       strategic to boosting product performance            Delighting in the mundane
               Digital allows instant feedback – this way,     and protecting the formula,” he explains.            Philip Tarrant, Coty’s research and
               I can build an authentic relationship on a      “Packaging has a key role in increasing              development leader for North America,
               personal level.”                                the perceived value of the product and               says, “The trend for premiumisation is tied
                  While Studio 10 might be seen as a range     providing an additional service to the               to innovation, as one of the key aspects
               that targets over-40s, Fodor has a broader      user. Some recent examples of premium,               is enhancing the experience and
               vision: redefining beauty and age. Selling      innovative packaging include the Lash                functionality of the product to make it more
               products is only part of this mission, as       Paradise mascaras from L’Oréal Paris and             indispensable than an alternative. In beauty,
               she explains, “I’ve found that creating a       Mister Big from Lancôme, with their fibre            when you speak of innovation there are

                                                                                           Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com                     15

CPI002_105_Premiumisation.indd 15                                                                                                                                   13/07/2018 09:22
Insight > Luxury

               basically two types: true innovation,               valve to a premium-looking, lockable                 consumer research when we develop
               creating something entirely new, or                 spray-through cap. In this case,                     new packaging and work to find their
               implantation innovation, taking an existing         not only did the redesign change                     unknown needs.”
               technology to a broader audience by                 consumer perception and experience,                     Price further explained that the real
               making it less expensive and easier                 but it actually included a reduction                 value comes from paying attention
               to manufacture.” Both can support                   in plastic, proving that it’s possible               to the unknown, and seeking value
               development of a premium packaging                  to be innovative, increase the                       in places consumers would not expect
               format, but the caveat tends to be cost             exclusivity of a product and still                   – such as using packaging to bring
               and resources. If money is no object, it            reduce material resources.”                          delight to the daily beauty routine.
               is easy to conceive a bold new product                 Another major breakthrough improved               Kao’s Evita Beauty Whip Soap, a
               and release it. But this is rarely the              the experience of the product, and                   Japanese-market launch from Kanebo
               case; everything costs time and money.              also provided a whole-new market of                  Cosmetics, is a perfect example.
               From searching patent and intellectual              packaging and products that were                     According to Price, “The packaging
               property records to ensure the new idea             designed to be promoted by users on                  for the soap delivers the need for a
               is exactly that, to engineering, designing          social media, came from the ground-                  rich, velvety facial cleansing foam and
               and developing the product. It can take             breaking launch of Kao Corporation’s                 brings extra delight to the consumer
               years, depending on the complexity.                 Kanebo brand.                                        through the aerosol packaging and
                                                                                                                        unique dispensing head, which creates
                                                                                                                        a beautiful rose shape with one easy
                 The more honest you are, the more effective                                                            pump. It is more than your normal
               your communications will be. Transparency is                                                             face wash or foam cleanser. It

               great if you have been telling the truth but not                                                         brings the element of 'wow' through
                                                                                                                        packaging innovation.”
               so good if you’ve been lying.
               – Mark Constantine, Lush                                                                                 The truth will set you free
                                                                                                                        Sometimes it is surprising who leads the
                  Tarrant confirms, “To me,                           Laura K Price, senior package                     results for most admired brands. Apple,
               premiumisation can be founded in                    development engineer, research                       BMW and Nike are a constant when
               something as simple as changing the                 and development for Kao USA, says,                   consumers are surveyed. However, Mark
               consumer experience. For example,                   “Kao USA and its parent company,                     Constantine, co-founder and managing
               our CoverGirl was designed with the                 Kao Corporation, put considerable                    director of Lush, believes thinking
               ergonomics of the user in mind. It                  importance on developing innovative                  differently and rewriting the rules is
               features a bi-injected, soft-touch cap for          packaging daily and strive to be the                 a wonderful way to eschew the big
               precision and control, along with edge-             creators of continuous innovation.                   boys and forge a desire line for a new
               to-edge stamping on the bottle and cap              We endeavour to develop products                     premium brand.
               to complete the look. Another example is            and brands to maximise consumer                         “As a small brand, you are wasting
               our Playboy SkinTouch deodorant, which              satisfaction by determining the needs                money if you try to advertise or match
               is redesigned from a traditional aerosol            of consumers. We always incorporate                  the bigger players. We’ve tried, and it

               In developing a premium-look aerosol for their Playboy range, with a fully lockable cap, Coty also managed to reduce the amount of material required.

                16    Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com

CPI002_105_Premiumisation.indd 16                                                                                                                                      13/07/2018 09:23
Insight > Luxury

               has been ineffective and expensive.
               It is wonderful if you have £1 billion
               to mount your campaign, as you can
               blanket all markets and communication,
               but that is a very small circle.”
                  While Lush now generates over
               £300 million in revenue, across
               50 countries, describing the company          Estée Lauder's new make-up brush has a wealth of new design technologies that give it an edge.
               as small is still relative and accurate –
               L’Oréal is over 100 times its size.           has been to one of its shops can attest,           global package development for Estée
               While advertising might be seen as a          Lush relishes unconventional display,              Lauder, explains the science behind
               playground for the mega companies,            vivid colours and textures that make               the magic.
               Lush has achieved its status in               the consumer feel as though they are                  “The cushion stick package is
               spite of actively not taking part. How        in a market stall or bazaar, rather than           designed to apply and blend-in liquid
               is this achieved?                             a high-end cosmetics store. However,               foundation in simple gestures, whether
                  “You have to deliver on the promise        as the brand ethos is to provide fresh,            at home or on the go. Due to the unique
               of your products and ethos, and keep          handmade cosmetics, it is a sign of                design, the package allows consumers
               to your message,” says Constantine. “To       being attuned to the market that their             to apply a full face of make-up or to use
               most customers, cosmetics are hard to         layout is evocative of artisanal grocers.          where needed. The turning mechanism
               differentiate, and most people think of          Underscoring all of this, as                    allows consumers to have better
               products as very changeable. You have         Constantine sees it, is communication              control over the amount of product
               to be distinct, transparent and restore       with complete honesty. “The more                   and coverage as they propel and
               people’s faith in human nature, and           honest you are, the more effective your            repel the stick.” To overcome hygiene
               convince people that companies can            communications will be. Transparency               concerns that many traditional cushion
               do the right thing too.”                      is great if you have been telling the              compacts have, Estée Lauder’s product
                                                                                                                has a removable sponge head that
                                                                                                                allows the consumer to wash the
                  Being a brand 100% developed by women                                                         applicator as needed.
               for women, we will be taking an even more active                                                    Tobin explains, “One of the initial
                                                                                                                challenges was developing a system
               role in not only consuming products, but in the                                                  that combines two unique forms –
               creation, production and even distribution.                                                      a foundation package and a sponge
               – Grace Fodor, Studio 10                                                                         applicator – into one affordable package.
                                                                                                                Another challenge was to provide an
                  Strong opinions and beliefs are the        truth but not so good if you’ve been               acceptable label claim while maintaining
               key to staying current without a high         lying. Companies who use advertising               an ergonomic shape for consumers
               advertising spend, but it does not end        to say they are something they are not             to apply foundation to the face with
               there. The company carries a willingness      were never in control of the brand in              only one hand.” The design required
               to engage with journalists and media          the first place.”                                  a simplified mechanism to allow
               on any topics they wish – totally at odds        It is this school of thought above              consumers to hold with one hand but
               with the industry norm. Constantine           all that has allowed Lush to move from             also provide a large enough opening
               explains, “We are the only mid-               quirky start-up to premium cosmetics               to fill the product on its high-speed
               sized cosmetics company where the             brand and continue to grow in a market             production line. Both of these challenges
               formulator is also the boss, which gives      shared with giants.                                were answered by the final design.
               the brand its experiential and homemade                                                             “Lastly, consumers also want to know
               feel. Each cosmetics brand has its own        Two for one                                        how much of their foundation has been
               strengths and weaknesses. L’Occitane          Another way for a brand to occupy                  used and how much is left. Thus, we
               is great at packaging, The Body Shop          the premium sector is to enhance the               developed a very unique attribute of this
               does discount marketing very well –           experience of the user, by improving               package – the body gets smaller as the
               we all have different styles. At Lush, we     products or promising more exclusivity             product is used. As the product’s height
               formulate, work like hell on the quality of   than others in the field. No stranger to           is lowered during usage, it becomes
               the ingredients and focus on making the       innovation or experiential marketing,              more compact and even more
               finished product as effective as possible.    Estée Lauder has recently capitalised              convenient for on the go. Another benefit
               We want to serve our customers.”              on the single pack make-up plus pro-               of the design is that by turning the body
                  This creates a product that is             tool trend with their Double Wear Nude             of the package into the base, it achieves
               fundamentally different. As anyone who        Cushion Stick. Tim Tobin, director of              near full evacuation of the product.”

                                                                                        Cosmetics Packaging Insight | www.pci-mag.com                         17

CPI002_105_Premiumisation.indd 17                                                                                                                                  13/07/2018 09:23
You can also read