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Dordogne-Périgord
We set the scene, you write the story......
AMBASSADORS
AND LOCAL
PERSONALITIES
Meeting with
those who love
the Périgord
HERITAGE
Exceptional sites
and monuments
ACCOMMODATION
Holiday rentals,
THINGS bed and breakfast,
to see and do hotels and camping
1|
G N E
R D O D
D O G O R
E R I
P
Mimos 2016 - Cie ILOTOPIE © Steve Eggletone
Edirial
Welcome to the Dordogne Périgord region
T
his 2019-2020 edition of the Holiday and berries, walnuts and the excellent wines produced by
Leisure Magazine opens new pages on the his- our local Bergerac wine-growers. Join us in the fun and
tory of the region and personal testimonials, festivities which express so well the hospitality of our
inviting you to come and discover the Périgord region, share many unique experiences with your family
for your next holidays. For this fifth edition, or friends, without moderation, as your fancy takes you.
we have chosen, as our Ambassadors and Local Perso- Come and enjoy a wonderful holiday, whether it be en-
nalities, men and women who perpetuate the spirit of ergetic, gourmet or cultural...
the Périgord by the diversity and richness of their lives There is gold to be discovered in the Périgord… golden
and their experiences. They will charm you with their adventures, golden emotions and the pure gold of our
knowledge and love for this region, and invite you to gourmet cuisine.
join them in adopting the “Périgord Attitude”! So, make the decision, choose your made-to-measure
This magazine is also a long journey through time, as sightseeing and activities programme and… have a great
seen in the presence of Man in the Dordogne Périgord holiday in the Périgord!
for more than 400 000 years. From the prehistoric de-
corated caves, through the sites of the Gallo-Roman Magazine published by the Comité départemental du tourisme
times, the Romanesque churches, the chateaux and the de la Dordogne :
bastide towns of the Middle Ages, the museums and 25, rue Wilson, BP 40 032, 24002 Périgueux Cedex
+33 5 53 35 50 24
theme parks, to the futuristic digital technologies used Publishing editor : Christophe Gravier
in Lascaux IV International Centre for Cave Art, this A magazine made by Sud Ouest Group development Agency
23, quai des Queyries, 33094 Bordeaux Cedex
magazine is a Golden Visitors Book, just waiting to be +33 5 35 31 31 31
read by you! Director : Marie-Luce Ribot
You can be sure that your next holiday in France will Head of brand content department : Astrid Dupont-Fauville
Production manager: Florence Girou
be a great success if you come to the Périgord. Take the Editorial board : Sophie Dussaussois, Anaïs Rouyer
time to discover, on foot, by bike, from a canoe or by Translation : Shayne Garde Girardin
Subeditor : Inès Joseph
car, our major tourist sites: the charming, picturesque Cover photo : Manu Allicot
villages and towns certified “Plus beaux villages de Printing : Groupe IMPRIM ZA du Haut-Vigneau.
Rue de la Source - 33170 Gradignan.
France”, “Petites cités de caractère” and, of course, the Origine of the paper : printed on PEFC 70 %
“Villes d’art et d’histoire”. This year we have opened four QUAL/09-438, paper made in Spain with 0,28 %
new itineraries: the Mythical Routes of the Périgord! recycled fibres
Eutrophisation : Ptot 0,02 kg/tonne
Come and enjoy our renowned truffles, foie gras, straw-
|1
PARIS
BORDEAUX
BY CAR BY PLANE BY TRAIN
• Paris-Périgueux (500 km) International flights • Paris-Périgueux : 4 h
• Bordeaux-Périgueux A89 (120 km) to Bergerac airport • Bordeaux-Périgueux : 1 h 15
• Lyon-Périgueux A89 (400 km) www.bergerac.aeroport.fr • Toulouse-Périgueux : 3 h
• Toulouse-Périgueux A20/A89 (280 km) • Lyon-Périgueux : 5 h
2|
Summary Editorial . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
COMITÉ DÉPARTEMENTAL
DU TOURISME DE LA DORDOGNE
25, rue Wilson - BP 40032
24002 Périgueux Cedex
www.dordogne-perigord-tourisme.fr
E-mail : contact@dordogne-perigord-tourisme.fr
Maps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
© Dan Courtice-Semitour
© Aurélie Stapf, porteusesonge.com
DRONNE VALLEY
4 PÉRIGORD-LIMOUSIN REGIONAL
NATURE PARK AND AUVÉZÈRE VALLEY 12
© Dan Courtice-Semitour Périgord
© Guillaume Saramito - GS Productions
PÉRIGUEUX AND
THE ISLE VALLEY 20 LASCAUX AND THE VÉZÈRE
VALLEY 30
© CD 24 - Denis Nidos
© CD 24 - Denis Nidos
THE DORDOGNE VALLEY 44 LAND OF SARLAT 56
Accommodation 72
© CDT Dordogne
......................................
Holiday rentals, bed and breakfast,
hotels and camping
LAND OF BERGERAC 64
|3
The Drоne Valley in the Périgd Vert Escape to this garden of greenness in the heart of the Périgord Vert
Château de Bourdeilles
AMBASSADOR
IN THE NORTH OF THE PÉRIGORD
CAVE PAINTINGS
© Versaveaud
From the untouched wilderness of the Auvézère
CATHERINE Gorges to the Boschaud Abbey, or the classified
heritage village of Saint-Jean-de-Côle, the north of
BIRCKEL- the Périgord is the setting for several jewels of heritage,
VERSAVEAUD among which you will find the Grotte de Villars
SITE MANAGER
OF THE GROTTE
DE VILLARS
A treasure of the Périgord
Vert, the Villars Cave
shelters sublime cave
paintings dating back
about 20 000 years.
Discovered by the
Périgueux Speleology
Club in 1953, the cave
has belonged to the same
family for three generations
now. Its centuries-old
history is now engraved
into the family’s DNA.
© grotte de Villars
6 | THE DRONNE VALLEY IN THE PÉRIGORD VERT
W
inter 1953 : Spe- of the site. He constructed a building and a
leologists from small bar to welcome the tourists, created a
Périgueux suspect light and sound show to enhance the cave
the existence of paintings and joined the association Vi-
an underground sites en Périgord which promoted tourism.
© J.-M. B.
network of galle- Located in the Périgord vert, in the north
ries near the vil- of the county, the Villars Cave was much
lage of Brantôme. Early one morning, the further away than the classic Dordogne
group of explorers sees a smoking hole; a touristic sites. “But this distance actually
sure sign of a cavity. But the speleologists pushed us to innovate. My father worked
are far from imagining the size of the dis- very hard on the quality of our visitor wel-
covery they will make. Although the ex- come and improved the marketing and in-
ploration of these galleries, which spread formation given to visitors. He succeeded
over 13 kilometres, will last several years, in making the cave one of the must-sees
the real treasure will only be discovered on the tourist routes in the Périgord. To-
some years later, in 1958. That year, in day, it is the only cave in the county where
one of the caves, the team notices a crack you can see both prehistoric paintings, one
in one of the cave walls. They begin to dig shows a very rare depiction of a man and
there until the slimmest among them ma- a bison, and very beautiful, natural stalag-
nages to slip into the tunnel. It opens onto mites and stalactites”, explains Catherine
a splendid rotunda and the explorer sees, Brickel-Versaveaud.
for the first time since time immemorial,
© grotte de Villars
four painted horses that seem to be run- A TASTE FOR TRANSMISSION
ning across the walls… After teaching for fifteen years, Catherine
”I often think of the emotion that these men Brickel-Versaveaud took over the mana-
must have felt at that moment”, confides gement of the cave in 2009. Her greatest
Catherine Brickel-Versaveaud, the owner
and site manager.
Born in 1968, this ex-Spanish teacher has “The Villars cave is the only cave in the
always known the cave. “When I was small,
it was my play-ground, and even though I Périgord where you can see both prehistoric
left to become a teacher, I always kept a link
with prehistory. I did my Master’s thesis on paintings, one showing a very rare depiction
the Caves of Cantabria, and I always knew
that I would come back here. This cave re- of a man and a bison, and very beautiful
presents my roots… it is a very important
legacy.” natural stalagmites and stalactites”
OPENING THE CAVE wish? To transmit to the younger genera- She also pays careful attention to passing
TO THE PUBLIC tions, this (hi)story come to us from the on the flame of Cro-Magnon to her own
The discovery of the Villars cave changed depths of time. In order to tell the children children. Her son Thibault has just begun a
the course of history for the Versaveaud and parents about the daily life of our an- degree in the History of Art and Archeolo-
family. cestors, she has created a prehistoric garden, gy at the University of Toulouse.
In the 1950s, Armand, the grandfather where she has rebuilt a Cro-Magnon sett-
was a farmer. The cave was on his lands, lement, planted some of the flora from that
and thus, by French law, belonged to him. time and installed excellent imitations of a
Very rapidly, in 1959, he decided to open woolly rhinoceros, a bison and a megaceros.
the cave to the general public, to share his The park borders a 700 meters path, and GROTTE
treasure. At the time, it was a risk to take be- was thought out to be both fun and edu-
cational, with quizzes and information
DE VILLARS
cause tourism was not yet very developed,
although local people were beginning to vi- boards, as well as games, like painting with
sit the cave. And while Armand and his wife pigments or trying your hand at the cata- Le Cluzeau
Raymonde continued to farm their lands, pult, used for hunting in the past. 24530 VILLARS
they also began to welcome prehistorians Today the cave receives 55 000 visitors a +33 5 53 54 82 36
and experts, and they themselves began to year, from all over the world. Catherine, www.grotte-villars.com
learn and become passionate about cave who is always running several projects at
paintings. the same time, belongs to the association
In the early 1990s, Hubert Versaveaud, Le Cœur du Périgord to try to further the
Catherine’s father, took over the running advertising of the cave.
|7
LOCAL PERSONALITIES
CATHERINE BRÉBANT
THE ART
© Loïc Mazalrey
OF HOSPITALITY
A
ccording to local le- has become her land of choice and adop-
gend, the Hotel des tion. Originally from the north of France,
Griffons was used by she worked as a nurse in Switzerland for
the Lord of Bourdeilles fifteen years before falling in love with the
as his “lieu de plaisir”. Dordogne and deciding to settle here for
“I can’t confirm this good in 2017.
with any conviction be- “A few years ago, my husband inherited a
cause I really don’t know what is historical house from his grandparents in the delight-
truth and what is local fantasy. But I do ful village of Brantôme. We decided to keep
know that there are still secret trap-doors it for the holidays. And then, slowly, it be-
that allow one to enter with total discre- came increasingly difficult for us to leave,”
tion”, smiles Catherine Brébant, the new she explains.
owner of the hotel. When she learned that the Hotel des Grif-
fons was for sale, Catherine Brébant did not
think twice. She bought it, and after some
“We live in renovation work to update the décor, she
re-opened the hotel in April 2018.
an idyllic setting The small hotel has several cosy lounges
and 10 bedrooms with views over the river,
here. Wherever wooden beams and traditional fire-places.
Beyond Bourdeilles, the tourists have a
you look, there huge choice of cultural visits, ranging from
the Grotte de Villars to the charming,
is something surrounding villages, such as Nontron or
Saint-Jean-de-Côle, or they can enjoy na-
beautiful to see” ture trips. Visitors can discover the area
either on foot following the sign-posted
Built in the 16th century on the banks of the paths or by canoe on the Dronne River.
Dronne River, this elegant building is today Catherine, the former nurse, is always de-
a perfectly respectable and charming ho- lighted to help the visitors discover the tou-
tel, very popular with tourists who appre- ristic gems of her little corner of paradise…
ciate both the sense of hospitality and the it is a new way for her to take care of others.
very dynamic atmosphere of this medieval
village.
“We live in an idyllic setting here. Where-
ver you look, there is something beautiful
to see: the river that flows past the hotel,
the chateau further down, the chestnut
HOSTELLERIE
LES GRIFFONS
Photos Loïc Mazalrey
trees, the walking trails. There is even a he-
ron that comes down to look for food every
morning, at breakfast time”, she says. 24310 Bourdeilles
If Catherine Brébant speaks so highly of the +33 5 53 45 45 35
region, it is perhaps because the Périgord www.griffons.fr
8 | THE DRONNE VALLEY IN THE PÉRIGORD VERTTOURIST SITES
SAINT-AULAYE- TOUR OF THE
PUYMANGOU ROMANESQUE CUPOLA
An unusual bastide town over- CHURCHES
looking the Dronne River, certified Discover the thirty cupola-topped
“Petite cité de caractère”, with built churches of the area, with their
heritage (12th century church, 15th defense systems. Certain churches
century ramparts) and natural he- have light and sound displays.
ritage (Forest of the Double, banks THE VENDOIRE Information leaflets available
of the Dronne River). Situated within PEAT FIELDS in Tourist Offices.
the Cognac A.O.C. area. A natural site where you can
www.saint-aulaye.com observe, depending on the season, RIBÉRAC AND AROUND
dragonflies, butterflies, amphibians, +33 5 53 90 03 10
migratory and native birds. Perma- www.riberac-tourisme.com
© Frédéric Tessier
nent exhibition, presentation video
and themed activities.
VENDOIRE
+33 5 53 90 79 56
BRANTÔME-
EN-PÉRIGORD
GROTTE
AND ABBEY
© Mairie de Saint-Aulaye
OF BRANTÔME
© CEN Aquitaine
© OT de Ribérac
The Brantôme Abbey is mentioned
in literature for the first time in the
year 817 A.D. As early as during
the 9th century, even before the
construction of the buildings, the
first monks living there set up a par-
tially troglodytic abbey in a series of
caves behind the present abbey.
Still today you can observe three
exceptional bas reliefs, one dating
from the 15th century and which de-
picts ‘Triumph over death’, a second
scene from the 17th century shows
the crucifixion and an older piece
© Dan Courtice
which is perhaps of pagan origin.
© OT Périgord Dronne Belle
The legend tells that Charlemagne
in person brought the relics of Saint
Sicaire, a child martyr, to the Abbey,
and that the Saint Sicaire Fountain,
© S. Massiot
CHÂTEAU
whose waters flow directly from the DE BOURDEILLES
rock-face, can miraculously cure Live the experience of the Escape
sick children and render fertility to Game, with your enhanced reality
sterile women. Thus, in the collec- helmet which will transport you back PARC
tive imagination, the Grotte de Bran- to the castle’s past where you will CHÂTEAU DES DOUBLORIGÈNES
tôme is still, and has always been, have to solve the riddles to escape. DE PUYGUILHEM A garden dedicated to quirky arts
considered as a magical place. Discover its elegant Renais- and languid past-times. You can
BOURDEILLES sance-style silhouette, its hull-
What is sure is that it is an excep- admire the sculptures, discover
+33 5 53 03 73 36 shaped timber roof-frame and its different plants, read a poem, watch
tional site, to be discovered during www.chateau-bourdeilles.fr
open or guided visits, alone or with furnished rooms. An exceptional, a performance… or do absolutely
sculpted fire-place shows nothing!
the family. There is an activity book
the 12 Labours of Hercules.
that children can use to discover the SAINT-VINCENT-
secrets of this marvellous cave. VILLARS JALMOUTIERS
+33 5 53 05 80 63 +33 5 53 54 82 18 +33 6 33 81 26 15
www.chateau-puyguilhem.fr www.doublorigenes.com
www.perigord-dronne-belle.fr
|9COMING EVENTS
SAINT-AULAYE
FESTIVAL DES MUSIQUES ÉPICÉES
EARLY AUGUST
During the first weekend of August every year, the medieval bastide
town of Saint-Aulaye, certified “Petite cité de caractere”, vibrates
to the rhythm of afro-cuban and latino music. Founded in 1996,
this festival of “spicy” music takes place in the terraced gardens of
the château, overlooking the Dronne Valley. Although it invites big
names, such as Yuri Buenaventura, mentor of the festival, Sergent
Garcia, Zebda or Ernesto Tito Puentes, the association, Swing in
Eulalia, organiser of the festival, also promotes regional bands. So
come as a family or with friends to “swing along”, discover local
and foreign performers, or even try your hand at this music in one
© Natasia Chainaud
of the workshops and, of course, savour the local or exotic spicy
specialities.
Information : +33 5 53 90 63 74
www.musiques-epicees.com
FARMERS’ SAINT-AULAYE BRANTÔME
©OT Périgord Dronne Belle - Frédéric Tessier
MARKETS LA LATIÈRE RIVER
Whether it is in the evening for
a festive meal with friends, or
FAIRS JOUSTING
during the day to top up your END OF APRIL AND JULY - AUGUST
shopping with good-quality MID-SEPTEMBER On Fridays from 9pm on the
produce, the Dordogne Atypical fairs where you will Dronne River, in front of the
farmers and artisans welcome find everything from cattle, Abbey.
you to their street markets horses, hunting-dogs and +33 5 53 05 80 63
all year long, where they poultry to local produce,
will help you to discover the horticulture and market RIBÉRAC
specialities of the Périgord. gardening to all sorts of
These farmers’ markets are objects, vehicles, a fun-fair FEST’IN
easily identified by their logo and more. RIBÉRAC
www.saint-aulaye.com MID-JULY
This booming festival offers
SAINT-AULAYE a well-balanced programme
INTERNATIONAL of contemporary music (rock,
PASTEL FAIR rap, electro, etc.) where top
musicians share the stage
JULY - AUGUST 2020 with emerging artists.
Biennale offering an www.festin.org
exhibition, workshops,
and conform to the terms of conferences
and demonstrations.
LEISURE ACTIVITIES
a charter that requires that
all produce presented in the www.pastelenperigord.net
markets originates directly
and exclusively from local PÉRIGORD VERT LA JEMAYE SAINT-CRÉPIN- LA ROCHE
farmers and breeders.
Dates and further information ITINERANT LAKE AND DE-RICHEMONT BEAUCOURT-
may be found on: BAROQUE RECREATIONAL THE MEULIÈRES ET-ARGENTINE
www.marches FESTIVAL PARK WALK
-producteurs.com JULY
THE
Encounters around Baroque
A walk though the very ancient ARGENTINE
music. Discover nature on a sign-
history of the extraction of PLATEAU
grinding-stones. The path takes
+33 5 53 90 05 13 posted walk, fitness trail, hikes you along a labyrinth of quarries Vast lime-stone plateau criss-
www.itinerairebaroque.com or from the bird observatory. dotted with monsters carved crossed by hiking paths. You
Water activities and supervised in stone. can even walk along a part of
swimming in summer. Picnic www.rando.dordogne.fr an ancient Roman road then
area and a lakeside café. along a former railway-line.
+33 5 53 90 03 10 www.rando.dordogne.fr
10 | THE DRONNE VALLEY IN THE PÉRIGORD VERTSHORT STAYS AND EXCURSIONS
Enjoy the Périgord
We have more than 2 500 offers of accommodation to help you have the very best holiday. www.dordogne-perigord-tourisme.fr
Prehistory and château Relax in the Dronne Valley
VILLARS AND BOURDEILLES VAL DE DRONNE AROUND BRANTÔME
Visit to the Grotte de Villars. This cave Visit to the château de Puyguilhem. Built
© www.petitesourisphoto.com
© Dan Courtice
is one of the biggest underground in the 16th century in the Renaissance
networks in the Périgord, with nearly style, similar to the chateaux in the Loire
13 kilometres of caves explored so far. Valley.
Lunch at Brantôme, the emerald Venice Lunch at Brantôme.
of the Périgord! Visit to the Grotte de l’Abbaye in Bran-
Visit to the chateau de Bourdeilles, one tôme. These caves, in the limestone cliff
of the four baronies in the Périgord. behind the Abbey, are witness to the fact
the early man lived there.
Boat trip along the river.
1 day from 52€/person- 20 people minimum 1 day from 47€/person -20 people minimum
Information/reservations: +33 5 53 35 71 22 Information/reservations: +33 5 53 35 71 22
travel-pro@tourismeperigord.com travel-pro@tourismeperigord.com
Le Moulin de l’Abbaye
«
L ocated in Brantôme, one of the most
beautiful villages of Perigord, the Abbey
Mill is a 4-star hotel which welcomes you in a refined atmosphere. The postcard
scenery is breath-taking: the Abbey Mill is alongside the river and offers an
impressive panoramic view of Brantôme as well as onto the Jardin des Moines
garden, the river, the Pont Coudé bridge and the Abbey, founded in 769
by Charlemagne. An idyllic setting in a unique environment! Its 1-star restaurant
in the Michelin Guide and its terrace as well as its two near-by bistros : LE MOULIN DE L’ABBAYE
1, route de Bourdeilles
Fil du Temps and Fil de l’Eau, will enable you to taste typical and delightful dishes. » 24310 Brantôme-en-Périgord (Dordogne), France
+33 (0)5 53 05 80 22
www.moulinabbaye.com
| 11Périgd-Limsin Regiоal and Auvézère Valley Where savoir-faire and beautiful landscapes create inspiration
Nare Park
Village of Saint-Jean-de-CôleAMBASSADOR
© Loïc Mazalrey
FRANÇOIS
DEVIGE
CABINET-MAKER, KNIFE-
MAKER AND OWNER OF
THE MOULIN DE LAPEYRE
In a setting that defies
time, the Moulin
de Lapeyre tells visitors
about the genius
of Périgord craftsmen,
both past and present.
Here, the knife-maker
François Devige has set up
his manufacturing
workshops, a bread oven
and a museum of tools
from a bygone era.
Enjoy a guided visit THE KNIFE-MAKER WHO KEEPS
into the world of arts
and crafts.
THE WHEEL OF
MEMORY TURNING
From glove- to knife-making, from wood-working
to porcelain, the Périgord-Limousin Regional Park
counts 260 arts and crafts workshops and in Nontron,
© Moulin de Lapeyre
since 1999, a dedicated experimental centre has been
promoting the diversity of these master craftsmen
14 | PÉRIGORD-LIMOUSIN REGIONAL NATURE PARKN
estling in a valley lined craftsmen could help me to solve them”, he
with chestnut-trees, says.
the Moulin de Lapeyre Today the domain, located near the
seems to come straight Saint-Estephe Lake, stretches over 27 hec-
out of a 19th-century tares of woods and streams, with three
© Loïc Mazalrey
postcard, when men main buildings. It is a fairy-tale setting for
still lived to the rhythm visitors, a genuine step back into the history
of grinding-stones and horses. It was here, of the Périgord and also a place of creation
in this idyllic setting, that the knife-maker, for the craftsmen who work there today.
Francois Devige decided to set up his ma-
nufacturing workshops. He also wanted to A LIVING POST-CARD
create a living and working space, entirely The sound of the blacksmiths’ hammers
dedicated to the savoir-faire of olden-day hitting on the workbench, the smoke from
craftsmen. the forge escaping from the high chimneys,
“Tools have a soul. They tell us about those the water-wheel turning, fed by the waters
© Moulin de Lapeyre
who made them, but also about those who of the near-by stream. On the mill-stones
used them, to till the earth or work on wood walnut kernels are crushed and different
or material and so on. Here, in this little kinds of flour are produced. Delicious
corner in the north of the Dordogne, we leavened bread is cooked in the wood-bur-
have a long-standing tradition of arts and ning oven.
crafts. And in today’s time of computers, it Upstairs you can walk through the ancient
seems to me essential to give the young ge-
nerations a taste for manual work”, explains
this defender of ancient crafts. “In the north of the Dordogne, we have a
First a cabinet-maker, Francois Devige
became a craftsman of knives in the early long-standing tradition of arts and crafts.
2000s, mainly through a passion for metal.
At the time he bought out, and thus saved, And in today’s time of computers, it
the venerable knife-making factory of Non-
tron, before re-selling it and launching his seems to me essential to give the young
own designs.
But although this fine artisan was now generations a taste for manual work”
practicing his craft every day, his real de-
sire, one forged in steel, was to transmit his tools that were used to till the earth and a savoir-faire that has been forged over
knowledge to others and create true trans- work on wood. “There are between 3 000 the years. Today, François Devige and his
parency in his production. So, to initiate and 4 000 objects here and certain date team are particularly proud to master the
the public to his craft, he needed a teaching back to the 18th century. These tools are the art of Damas. “It is an art that goes back to
space. In 2008, François Devige discovered living memory of people from here”, says the time of the Knights Templar, when the
the Moulin de Lapeyre and he knew he had the craftsman. knights needed blades that were both hard
found that space. Outside, a threshing-machine pulled by and supple. Learning to make them again
a 1932 loco-mobile turns constantly. took us a long time”, he admits with a smile.
A STEP INTO THE HISTORY François Devige also wanted to recreate Because, here in this iron-forge the famous
OF THE PÉRIGORD the atmosphere of ancient farming and saying “It is while forging that you learn to
“I realized that, here, all my different pas- harvesting. forge” takes on all its significance.
sions could cohabit. I could set up the forge
for the knife-making, as well as make bread IT IS WHILE FORGING THAT…
in traditional style and walnut oil, and re- Five craftsmen work alongside François
ceive the general public and the water from Devige all year long to make between
the lake would feed the hydraulic mecha- 5 000 and 6 000 knives. As well as the
nism. I made the decision to buy”, he says. iron-forges, the Moulin de Lapeyre also
For the next eight years, François Devige runs a leather workshop to make sheathes
rolled up his sleeves and got to work, eve- for the knives and a cabinet-making MOULIN
ry weekend, every vacation, restoring the workshop. All sorts of amazing objects DE LAPEYRE
old walls and driving all over the region come out of these workshops: nut-crackers,
to find the necessary spare parts and the candle-sticks, chairs, tables, checkers and 24360 Saint-Estèphe
savoir-faire. Because the old water mill no chess sets as well as the beautiful, wooden, +33 5 53 56 50 20
longer had its wheel which needed to be oval balls bought by the French Rugby Fe- Open in July and August
rebuilt. “There were so many technical pro- deration. In summer, the craftsmen are de- from 14.00 to 19.00,
blems, and only older, more experienced lighted to show their savoir-faire to visitors, every day except Mondays.
| 15LOCAL PERSONALITIES
NICOLAS COUSINOU
COMPOSER
© Loïc Mazalrey
OF FLAVOURS
B
eware all truffle-lovers! Thiviers is the capital of foie gras. My role
Even if this mushroom, is to transmit the taste of these fine ingre-
so emblematic in Périgord dients”, he says.
cuisine, is written on the A fan of traditional recipes whose struc-
menu of the L’Escapade ture he particularly appreciates, Nicolas
des sens restaurant in Thi- Cousinou masterfully composes the most
viers, you can only taste it unusual trimmings to accompany the sa-
between early December and the end of vours of the main dish. In his restaurant,
Photos l’Escapade des Sens
February, during the full mushroom sea- the foie gras is served with a turnip tatin
son. That is because the owner of this fine and meat sauce, but it might also be served
restaurant, the young chef, Nicolas Cousi- with cherries roasted in curry! And Nico-
nou, is proud to offer only seasonal fruit las Cousinou prepares the Périgord Salad,
and vegetables. It could not be any other another favourite in local cuisine, in his
own way, served with a waffle.
The restaurant L’Escapade des sens in Thi-
“Each local viers is situated in the heart of the Limou-
sin National Park, on the ground floor of
farmer, each the Hotel de France et de Russie, owned
by an English couple who fell completely in
breeder knows love with the region. It is a small, intimate
restaurant that can seat 34 guests. It is
and defends his surrounded by a rose and lavender garden
and welcomes both business clients and
own products... pilgrims walking the Santiago de Compos-
tela route. The menu changes every week,
my job is to find as the chef loves variety. His latest idea? To
put venison on the menu. But before he
the right music could do that, he spent time in a hunting
lodge to better understand how hunters
to go with them!” work. “Each local farmer, each breeder
knows and defends his own products... my
way for this farmer’s son, who grew up in job is to find the right culinary music for
the Dordogne and was nourished by the each product!”
fresh food products of the family farm.
Even though this young, 28-year-old chef
learnt the art of fine cooking from other
top chefs, Alain Ducasse in Monaco for
example, or Philippe Redon in Limoges, L’ESCAPADE DES SENS
he claims that the real inspiration for his
cooking comes from the local producers. 51, rue du Général-Lamy
“Here in the Dordogne, we have an in- 24800 Thiviers
credible richness of food, cep and girolle +33 5 53 62 19 23
mushrooms, beef, duck-meat, asparagus to contact@lescapade-des-sens.com
name a few. This is the land of fine cuisine. www.lescapade-des-sens.com
16 | PÉRIGORD-LIMOUSIN REGIONAL NATURE PARKTOURIST SITES
EXCIDEUIL
This small town has remarkable
architecture, from the Medieval VAUX PAPER-MILLS
chateau to the Renaissance chateau This Historical Monument is the
living quarters to 17th and 18th cen- last factory in France to work a ful-
tury private mansions. Sightseeing ly-functioning paper-making chain,
tour of the town. Renowned foie a witness to the industrial era of the
gras/fatted goose markets. Certified ATELIER DU TISSERAND last century.
"Petite cité de caractère". Discover the vernacular history
of textiles and the life of a village PAYZAC
+33 5 53 52 29 79
www.excideuil.fr weaver in the late 19th and early 20th +33 5 53 62 50 06
centuries, as well as the history of www.ecomuseesdelauvezere.fr
the famous “Charentaise” slipper.
VARAIGNES
+33 5 53 56 35 76
© D. Nidos
© Petite Souris Photographie
SAINT-MESMIN
© Naturellement Périgord
THE GORGES
© Denis Nidos
OF THE AUVÉZÈRE
VALLEY
They may be in the middle of the
Périgord, but when you enter into
the Gorges of the Auvézère Valley,
you immediately feel that you are
entering a humid, granite, moun-
tainous landscape that is unique
in the region. The agile mountain
goat rules here, along with the wild
trout and the turbulent waters of
the Isle, Loue and Auvézère Rivers.
The gorges are an absolute para-
© CC Jumilhac
dise for nature-lovers and offer a
great variety of sporting activities
such as kayak and canoeing, fi-
shing, mountain-biking, trail-biking
and of course walking trails. On CHÂTEAU DE JUMILHAC
horse-back or on foot, you will dis-
© PEMA
The château was built between
© SMIA
cover an unusual fauna and flora
the 13th and 17th centuries and
as you head along the different has gardens in themes of gold and
routes, all of which have been sign- alchemy. Classified as a National NONTRON KNIFE-
posted with explanatory boards. Historical Monument with one star FORGES DE SAVIGNAC MAKING FACTORY
You will cross foot-bridges that in the Michelin Green Guide 2018. On the banks of the Auvézère River, Knives entirely hand-made by
are often vertiginous, taken there the iron-forge is dominated by a craftsmen who follow every stage
JUMILHAC-LE-GRAND Renaissance château. On this site,
by helicopter because of the sheer of the manufacturing process.
cliff-faces! These new bridges al- +33 5 53 52 42 97 classified as a National Historical
or +33 6 09 61 78 40 Each knife becomes a unique
low you to join other itineraries or Monument, you will discover the object. Different styles: traditional,
www.chateaudejumilhac.com
to go via the gorges, impassable history of the iron and steel industry tableware and original designs.
in the Périgord Vert.
until just a few months ago, to visit NONTRON
remarkable Périgord sites such as SAVIGNAC-LÉDRIER
+33 5 53 56 01 55
the Forges of Mesvrin or the Bou- +33 5 53 62 50 06 www.coutellerie-nontronnaise.com
vier blast furnace, and thus disco- www.ecomuseesdelauvezere.fr
ver the built and natural heritage of
the Périgord Vert.
www.naturellementperigord.fr
| 17COMING EVENTS
NONTRON
KNIFE FESTIVAL
FIRST WEEK OF AUGUST
Nontron is a very tranquil village… except during the first week of
August, when 5000 people invade the streets of this little Périgord
town. Why? Because Nontron is famous for its knife-making in-
dustry, one of the oldest in France, and for its Knife Festival every
year which attracts professionals, enthusiasts and the curious. On
the stands you will find pocket knives, kitchen and hunting knives,
collector and design knives, all forged in France, in Europe, even in
Japan. For children, there are activities on the prehistoric knife and
© espace Eric Plazen cave paintings, a workshop in iron-forging and even an initiation to
scrimshaw, an ornamental Inuit engraving technique. On the Satur-
day night the atmosphere gets decidedly hotter with the spectacu-
lar melting of iron in the bloomery furnace.
Information: www.nontron.fr
FARMERS’ LA COQUILLE – BUSSIÈRE-BADIL
© OTPL
MARKETS MAISON DU PARC POTTER’S FAIR
Whether it is in the evening for
PARK-TIME FOR MAY
a festive meal with friends, or
during the day to top up your THE FAMILY With 35 to 40 potters from all
shopping with good-quality over France and Europe.
SCHOOL HOLIDAYS
produce, the Dordogne +33 5 53 60 74 75
farmers and artisans welcome On Tuesday mornings, discover www.foiredespotiers.com
you to their street markets the art of fishing (except
in October). On Thursday
all year long, where they
mornings, there are nature
SAINT-PANTALY-
will help you to discover the
specialities of the Périgord. workshops (vegetal painting, D’EXCIDEUIL
land art, giant Cluedo,
These farmers’ markets are
discovering birds and small BREAD-
easily identified by their logo
animals, tree-climbing and MAKING
more). In the afternoons, FESTIVAL
nature activities and sports, MID-JULY THIVIERS
and learning about the different
occupations and crafts in La A weekend of conviviality, PETITS CHEFS
Coquille and the Regional gastronomy and open-air
JULY - AUGUST
Nature Park. dining.
+33 5 53 52 29 79 Make your own gourmet dishes with foie gras and take them
+33 5 53 55 36 00 home with you, along with lots of fun recipes to try out at home.
www.pnr-perigord-limousin.fr Reservations necessary : +33 5 53 55 12 50
ÉTOUARS
and conform to the terms of SAINT-JEAN- FORGES SAINT-SAUD- EXCIDEUIL
a charter that requires that AND METAL
all produce presented in the
DE-CÔLE LACOUSSIÈRE HOOP FESTIVAL
markets originates directly FLORALIES WORKING AUGUST
and exclusively from local FESTIVAL FESTIVAL OF CEP
MAY Multi-faceted, off-beat and
farmers and breeders. END OF JULY - MUSHROOMS family festival which mixes
Numerous exhibits (flowers,
Dates and further information plants, garden decorations, BEGINNING OF AUGUST AND SUCKLING electro- music, dance, theatre
may be found on: shrubs, gardening tools, etc.) Conferences, exhibitions, CALF and digital arts.
www.marches guided visits, blacksmithing OCTOBER www.hoopfestival.fr
-producteurs.com VARAIGNES demonstrations, children’s +33 5 53 56 25 50
workshops, artisanal VARAIGNES
WEAVERS’ metal-working. GÉNIS TURKEY FAIR
MARKET +33 5 53 56 23 66 RAND’AUVÉZÈRE NOVEMBER
MAY END OF OCTOBER Stands, turkey parade,
Demonstrations, textile Explore the Auvézère gorges turkey-meat meals,
activities and catering. on foot, on horseback or on a entertainment, brass bands and
+33 5 53 56 35 76 mountain-bike. folklore groups.
+33 5 53 52 29 79 +33 5 53 56 35 76
18 | PÉRIGORD-LIMOUSIN REGIONAL NATURE PARKLEISURE ACTIVITIES
PÉRIGORD- SAINT-ESTÈPHE
LIMOUSIN LAKE AND
WANDERING RECREATIONAL
THROUGH PARK
THE REGIONAL
NATURE
RESERVE
Two new routes in 2019
to discover, on foot or on
a bicycle and at your own
pace, the Périgord-Limousin
© CD 24 Denis Nidos
Regional Nature Reserve,
which straddles the Dordogne
and the Haute-Vienne
counties. The Grand Boucle
du parc is a sign-posted
itinerary, almost 200
kilometres long, which will
take three to four days to do This protected natural area
on a mountain-bike or seven is a privileged space for the
to ten days if you are walking. conservation, management
You could start out, for and discovery of natural
example from the train station resources. The lake is a
in La Coquille. recreational park, with fishing-
A way to experience total peers that have good disability
immersion in a protected, access. Supervised swimming
natural environment. in summer. Picnic area and
www.pnr-perigord-limousin.fr playground for children.
+33 5 53 56 73 66
THE FLOW
VELO ANGOISSE
!
The Flow Vélo, a very chic
and bucolic cycle-path is
ROUFFIAC
LAKE AND New
290 kilometres long and RECREATIONAL
links the town of Thiviers in PARK
the Dordogne to Ile d’Aix in
Charente-Maritime. From In the heart of a 60-hectare
the hills of the Périgord Vert woodland, on the edge of the
to the Atlantic coast, these Rouffiac lake, this park offers
changing landscapes are like numerous sports activities
a geography book opening up such as cable-skiing, Optimist
before you. sailing, wind-surfing, rock-
www.laflowvelo.com climbing, paint-ball, archery,
mountain-biking, zip-lines and
tree-top adventures.
© Agence Les Conteurs
+33 5 53 52 68 79
www.rouffiac-loisirs.com
On foot or by all-terrain bike, Vaque veire !
Free guide is available
© CD 24 Denis Nidos
| 19Périgueux and the Isle Valley Follow the water to the heart of emotions, savours and History
Cathedral Saint-Front in Périgueux
AMBASSADOR
A JOURNEY THROUGH TIME...
ALONG
THE ISLE RIVER
© Loïc Mazalrey
In the past the river used to turn the wheels
MICHEL of the ancient water-mills thus contributing
CADET to the economic rise of the region over the
centuries. Today, the Isle River, still the emblem
of this valley of a thousand and one faces,
DOCTOR AND
PRESIDENT OF THE
offers its tranquil waters and bucolic river-
PÉRIGUEUX CANOE CLUB scapes to both visitors and kayakers...
As an enthusiast of both
sports and the Isle Valley,
Michel Cadet loves to mix
his passions. So, to share
the heritage treasures in
and around Périgueux,
he set up a series of river
trips with the Périgueux
Canoe Club. The idea was
to discover the secrets of
the town while keeping fit!
So, on board for a journey
through time...
© Jonathan Barbot
22 | PÉRIGUEUX AND THE ISLE VALLEY“I
n the 19th century, 3000 Museum, named after the protecting
"gabares" circulated on goddess of the city, and thus discover the
the Isle River and almost Gallo-Roman history of the town. From
700 of them used the Pé- there they journey through the Middle
rigueux river port every Ages by way of the Mataguerre Tower,
year. On the downstream last remaining vestige of the 13th century
trip they transported rampart walls, which once had 28 towers
wood, tiles and limestone from the and 12 gates.
Saint-Astier quarries, as well as pottery, “Périgueux was unified in 1240. But
leather and hay. On the upstream trip, between the Viking invasions of the 14th
these Périgord men brought back spices century, the Plague epidemics, the fa-
and salt. An economic system had deve- mines, wars and floods, the town’s his-
loped along the river, with water-mills, tory has not always been easy. This story
iron-forges and fisheries. Nearly 300 is wonderfully told in the book “Jacquou
boatmen lived and worked there until the le Croquant” by Eugene Le Roy,” adds
1930s”, explains Michel Cadet. Michel Cadet.
Although history is his passion, in his The canoe-trip continues below the
everyday life, Michel Cadet is a doctor in Maisons des Quais, these very elegant
© Jonathan Barbot
Périgueux, president of the town’s canoe houses built in the 15th century during
club and very involved in the touristic the Golden Age of the Renaissance, long
development of the Isle Valley. “Tourism before one of Napoleon III’s ministers
is at the crossroads of all my passions: ordered the building of the wharves. At
sports, leisure, culture and gastronomy. the time, these houses were on the edge
It allows people to meet around all these
different activities and to highlight the
incredible heritage that we live in. Built “In the 19th century, 700 “gabares”
heritage of course, but also natural heri-
tage! In this valley, we have black kites, used the Périgueux river port every
swans and fresh-water mussels... It is es-
sential to share all this with our visitors”, year. An economic system had
he says.
developed along the river, with water-
CANOE TRIPS
The Isle Valley has three canoe-kayak mills, iron-forges and fisheries”
clubs, all in the National 1 category, and
all among the best clubs in France. They of the water, thus giving Périgueux, capi- 150-year-old chalk-ovens. It is magical,”
offer educational, touristic and sports ac- tal of the Périgord, an “air of Venice” to says the doctor. He also suggests a visit
tivities and games. use Catherine de Medici’s words when to the fish farms in Neuvic, dedicated to
In Périgueux, to bring the valley’s trea- she passed through the town in 1542. breeding of sturgeon fish and produc-
sures to life, Michel Cadet has worked And finally, these sporty tourists can go tion of caviar, a veritable jewel of local
with the Canoe Club to set up a series onto a well-earned stop at the Barnabé gastronomy. And then why not go on to
of canoe trips. This certification, by the Riverside Restaurant, recently renovated the Moulin de Duellas for another ri-
French Kayak Federation, combines the in its original style. ver-cruise... on a “gabare” this time.
practice of canoeing or kayaking with From there, the kayakers row back, this
the discovery of historical heritage. On time by torchlight, to discover Périgueux
board the Rabaskas, 15-seater canoes of by night.
Native American origin, the visitors row
up the river, with a coxswain-guide, na- ALONG THE ISLE RIVER
vigating back through time and discove- Beyond the town of Périgueux, the Isle
ring a most perfect view of Périgueux, as River winds its way through many pic-
we see it from the river. turesque villages, such as Saint-Astier,
Neuvic, Mussidan and others. And PÉRIGUEUX
“AN AIR OF VENICE” even though the whole valley is scat-
Starting at the Saint-Claire departure tered with historical and natural sites CANOË-KAYAK
point, the kayakers will row from the to see, for Michel Cadet, one of the
ancient Roman oppidum as far as the “must-see” visits is definitely the ancient Moulin de Sainte-Claire
Barnabé Riverside Restaurant, a high quarries of the Saint-Astier Chalk Facto- 24000 Périgueux
place of the “années folles” in Périgueux. ry. “You can walk 20 metres below the +33 5 53 04 24 08
On the way they can see the Vesunna ground in a long labyrinth looking at the www.perigueuxcanoe.org
| 23LOCAL PERSONALITIES
THIERRY DE SEVIN
A VEGETAL
© Loïc Mazalrey
SYMPHONY
W
hether they are the rain-water and construct the 650 metres
intimate or won- of water-pipes, then plant 80 000 boxwoods,
derfully luxu- 1 300 rosebushes and 1 200 hornbeam
rious, designed trees, as well as trace out the paths and sculpt
“à la française” the flower-beds with names as evocative as
or for meditation, the Rosace de Saint-Front, freely inspired by
all over the Dor- the rosette in Périgueux’s Saint-Front Cathe-
dogne you will find gardens that literally dral, or the “Cloître” (cloister), made up of
sculpt the landscape. The county has a 260 boxwood cubes.
large number of "Jardins remarquables", In the 18 hectares of the domain, Thierry
and one of these, the Jardins du Bouquet, de Sevin plays with the size of the flower-
can be found in Sorges, the truffle capital beds, from 6m2 to 1 600m2, as well as
of the Dordogne. It is an extraordinary with the symmetry, the colours, the light
vegetal symphony surrounding an elegant and shade. “I didn’t want to create a formal
stately home built in 1830. French garden, nor an English one nor an
Italian one” explains Thierry de Sevin, “I
wanted a garden with a contemporary spi-
The Jardins rit, but with classic lines. A unique garden
which surprises the visitor at every turn
du Bouquet are and makes him want to create his own
garden.”
a real source of Thierry de Sevin has placed about
30 benches around the garden : the “Va-
inspiration. Here, lentine” bench invites visitors to ”whis-
per sweet words to each other”, while
very clearly, the bench for the chaperones is “not very
comfortable”, smiles our malicious garde-
serenity reigns ner, whose obvious pleasure is to surprise
us… again and again.
Open to the public since June 2018, the The Jardins du Bouquet are a true source
gardens are the work of a self-made lands- of inspiration for all future gardeners... they
caper, former executive from the food and invite one to dream and to sit in contem-
marketing world, who had always drea- plation. Here, very clearly, serenity reigns.
med of making his own Garden of Eden.
“ I have been drawing garden designs for
twenty years. When I was a child, I had my
own vegetable garden. For me, being able
to create my own garden was a childhood
LES JARDINS DU BOUQUET
dream ”, confides Thierry de Sevin, the de-
Photos Jardin du Bouquet
mi-god of this enchanted garden. Le Bouquet
When he acquired the domain at his retire- 24420 Sorges
ment, the fields of cereals stretched as far as Information:+33 5 53 08 72 84
the eye could see. Eight long years were nee- www.lesjardinsdubouquet.fr
ded for Thierry de Sevin to create the terraces Open every day from June 25th
and develop them, build the ponds to collect to November 1st
24 | PÉRIGUEUX AND THE ISLE VALLEYTOURIST SITES
CHANCELADE
CHANCELADE ABBEY
History, heritage and spirituality all come together at the Chance-
lade Abbey. In its natural setting in the heart of the Périgord Blanc,
and just a stone’s throw from Périgueux, this abbey, founded in
1120, still welcomes pilgrims walking to Santiago de Compostela,
for whom the Chancelade Abbey is a definite stop-over. Nationa-
lised during the French Revolution, it has once again become a
high place of religious practice. Since 1992, it has been home to a
community of Canons Regular of the Congregation of Saint Victor,
who live according to the Rule of Saint Augustin, just as they did du-
ring the golden age of the Abbey from the 12th to the 18th centuries.
The abbey is also a place of heritage and has been classified as a
historical monument. A huge programme of renovations has been
undertaken, in particular to restore the sumptuous abbey-house
and the outdoor theatre that hosted the “Comédie Francaise” in the
past. The well-known fountain that gave its name to the Abbey has
already been restored to its former glory. In fact, the name Chance-
lade comes from the Latin fons cancellatus, meaning hidden foun-
© abbaye de Chancelade
tain and is supposedly the place where the founder hermit of the
Canon community lived. Open visits or guided visits with a member
of the “Amis de l’Abbaye”.
+33 6 85 88 45 77
Information: www.abbaye-chancelade.com/
© CDT Dordogne
© Jonathan Barbot
© Jonathan Barbot
TRUFFLE ECOMUSEUM
The only one of its kind, the Truffle Eco-museum
presents all the information concerning the truffle
ANDRÉ-VOULGRE MUSEUM OF
VILLE D’ART ET D’HISTOIRE and its cultivation. Throughout your visit, you will find POPULAR ARTS AND TRADITIONS
The private collections of Doctor André Voulgre evoke
As the capital of the Périgord, Périgueux invites you to information panels, photographs, tools and audiovisual
the evolution of the Périgord society through the arts,
discover 2000 years of history. From the ancient Gallo- displays. As you leave the museum, we suggest you
daily life, farming techniques, pottery and ancient crafts
Roman city of Vesunna to the heart of the Medieval and follow the Truffle Discovery Trail which will take you
and trades. In this large, 18th century stately home
Renaissance town, there are thirty-nine buildings listed through the natural habitat of this “Black Diamond”.
you can find workshops of these by-gone trades and
or classified as Historical Monuments, set in one of the SORGES
a variety of collections; domestic objects, lights, tools,
largest areas of protected heritage in France. The Saint-
+33 5 53 05 90 11 farming machinery, taxidermy displays, regional pottery
Front Cathedral is a Unesco World Heritage site on the www.sorges-perigord.com
and more.
pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostella.
MUSSIDAN
PÉRIGUEUX
+33 5 53 81 23 55
+33 5 53 53 10 63 www.museevoulgre.fr
www.tourisme-perigueux.fr
26 | PÉRIGUEUX AND THE ISLE VALLEYTOURIST SITES
VESUNNA GALLO-ROMAN MUSEUM DUELLAS MILL AND GABARE
Unique in France, the museum, designed by the French Situated on a 6-hectare island, this mill bears witness
architect, Jean Nouvel, is built over the remains of a to past industrial activities needing water-power. It was
luxurious Gallo-Roman house. The whole house can a flour mill, a saw-mill and even produced electricity.
be viewed from the mezzanine, and you can take the Exhibitions, by different guest artists, are held there
themed walk-about which explains “The city and public
LARDIMALIE WINE-CELLAR MUSEUM from May to October with both open and guided visits.
life” as well as “The household and private life”. The This vine and wine museum is in a stunning wine cellar River-trips on a gabare (traditional flat-bottomed boat)
high, glass walls reveal the outside landscaped park built in 1902 and listed as a Historic Monument. A rare with commentary leave from the mill to navigate along
around the Vesunna Tower and sections of the 4th collection of tools, used by wine-growers, grape-pic- the River Isle, passing through a manually-operated
century rampart walls. kers, cellar-men and coopers, is on show in their river lock.
natural settings. The wine cellar itself evokes the lives
PÉRIGUEUX of those who worked there until 1967. SAINT-MARTIAL-D’ARTENSET
+33 5 53 53 00 92 +33 5 53 82 39 54
www.perigueux-vesunna.fr SAINT-PIERRE-DE-CHIGNAC www.moulin-duellas.fr
+33 5 53 35 44 96
www.chaidelardimalie.com
© Jonathan Barbot
© Jonathan Barbot
© Musée Vesunna
© Caviar de Neuvic
© Ferme du Parcot
© William Lesourd
NEUVIC CAVIAR FARM
FERME DE PARCOT NEUVIC CHÂTEAU AND BOTANICAL The domain lives to the rhythm of nature’s seasons and
Classified as a Historic Monument and on the official GARDENS the sturgeons’ life-cycle and testifies to the excellence
list of picturesque sites in the Dordogne, this 19th Built in the 16th century and today classified as a in the production of caviar. The site-manager will guide
century farm is of great ecological value and exceptional Historic Monument, the château has retained, from you around the fishery and explain the history and
architectural interest. It is one of the last timber-framed the Renaissance period, its vaulted rooms, its painted life-cycle of the fish that spend at least seven years
farm-houses in the area, built in 1841 in the heart of murals and an extremely rare three-level stone sink. In in these waters, before laying their eggs. You will also
the forest of the Double. the botanical gardens you can discover a wide variety discover the very precise and precious savoir-faire
of flowers, shrubs and trees, in all different shapes, necessary for the production of caviar. It’s the very best
ÉCHOURGNAC
colours and scents. From oaks and maples to dogwood way to prepare you for the tasting session.
+33 5 53 81 99 28
www.parcot.org and peonies, plant-life simply thrives in these gardens. NEUVIC
NEUVIC +33 5 53 80 89 57
www.caviar-de-neuvic.com
+33 5 53 80 86 65
www.fondationdelisle.fr
| 27COMING EVENTS
PÉRIGUEUX
MIMOS FESTIVAL
END OF JULY
In the streets of Périgueux, at the end of July, you can meet the des-
cendants of the Marcel Marceau Mime movement, for a poetic mo-
ment of the art of silence. You will discover new mime performances,
marvel at the fantasy décors, chat to the performers and be sur-
prised by the corporal expressiveness. Mimos is a highly versatile
festival that defies classification, offering a space to the less repre-
sented artistic practices like mime and physical or burlesque theatre.
As the only festival dedicated to mime in France, and the main one in
Europe, it is an international festival of performance arts where all the
artistic disciplines of corporal movement come together. Theatre and
circus arts performers, clowns and dancers invade Périgueux for six
© Epiphanie Esteves
days, with more than 20 shows in the official “In” programme (and
as many in the Fringe “Off” programme), given by 350 performers in
front of 80 000 visitors from all over the world.
+33 5 53 53 18 71. Information: www.mimos.fr
FARMERS’ PÉRIGUEUX artists and authors who are
© CLAP
always ready to sign your copy
MARKETS TRUFFLE of their book.
Whether it is in the evening for
a festive meal with friends, or
FESTIVAL www.bd-bassillac.com
during the day to top up your JANUARY
shopping with good-quality A festival to the rhythm
PÉRIGUEUX
produce, the Dordogne of truffles, awards and AND
farmers and artisans welcome entertainment.
you to their street markets +33 5 53 53 10 63
SURROUNDINGS
all year long, where they www.tourisme-perigueux.fr SINFONIA
will help you to discover the
specialities of the Périgord.
EN PÉRIGORD
SORGES +33 6 85 10 88 82
PÉRIGUEUX END OF AUGUST
These farmers’ markets are www.marchedantan-
easily identified by their logo TRUFFLE marsaneix.com GOURMET Festival of baroque music.
FESTIVAL NIGHTS +33 5 53 08 69 81
END OF JANUARY CENDRIEUX JULY - AUGUST
www.sinfonia-en-perigord.com
+33 5 53 05 90 11 THE In the heart of Périgueux’s
© CLAP
CENDRIALES historical centre, come to
PÉRIGUEUX FESTIVAL the night market to enjoy the
EXPOÉSIE festive ambiance and the
END OF JUNE -
great food, made from local,
FESTIVAL MID-JULY
and less local, products.
MARCH A multi-faceted festival in +33 5 53 02 82 17
and conform to the terms of a rural setting. Exhibitions,
Within the national festival
a charter that requires that theatre, concerts, short-films.
Printemps des poètes, PÉRIGUEUX PÉRIGUEUX
all produce presented in the Expoésie, created in 2002, is +33 6 08 06 87 75
markets originates directly a unique and vibrant poetic www.lescendriales.org MACADAM JAZZ FATTED GOOSE
and exclusively from local experience, which combines JULY - AUGUST AND DUCK
farmers and breeders. poetry, contemporary arts and
GRAND PÉRIGUEUX MARKETS
On Tuesday evenings, jazz
Dates and further information gourmet food. MNOP concerts in different open-air FROM NOVEMBER
may be found on: www.ferocemarquise.org JULY spaces around the town. TO MARCH
www.marches Musiques de la Nouvelle- +33 5 53 08 69 81 On Wednesday and Saturday
-producteurs.com MARSANEIX www.clap-perigueux.com mornings. Buy your foie gras,
Orléans en Périgord. Jazz
concerts, blues music duck fillets, livers, carcasses,
DONKEY in different venues around BASSILLAC etc. directly from the local
FESTIVAL the Dordogne. breeders of ducks and geese.
EARLY MAY
COMIC-BOOK
www.mnop.fr +33 5 53 53 10 63
Donkey-foal market and
FESTIVAL www.tourisme-perigueux.fr
traditional market with OCTOBER
entertainment and on-site Come and see the exhibitions
food to buy. and meet the comic-book
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