ENHANCING VITAMIN C CONTENT IN PHYLLANTHUS EMBLICA FACIAL SERUM THROUGH COLD PRESSED METHOD - MYJMS
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International Journal of Engineering Advanced Research
e-ISSN: 2710-7167 | Vol. 1, No. 2, 6-16, 2020
http://myjms.moe.gov.my/index.php/ijear
ENHANCING VITAMIN C CONTENT IN PHYLLANTHUS
EMBLICA FACIAL SERUM THROUGH COLD PRESSED
METHOD
Hamidah Noor Md Yusoh1*, Nur Haniza Ewandi Jong2, Norshila Md Isa3, Normala
Sulaiman4 and Wan Hamizah Wan Yusof5
1234
Department of Tourism and Hospitality, Politeknik Merlimau, Melaka, MALAYSIA
5
Department of Food Technology, Politeknik Sultan Haji Ahmad Shah, Pahang, MALAYSIA
*Corresponding author: hamidahnoor@pmm.edu.my
Accepted: 29 May 2020 | Published: 3 June 2020
Abstract: Hot and humid weather can cause skin problems like acne, skin breakouts, eczema and
allergic reaction. Vitamin C antioxidant properties aids in skin regeneration process to repair
damaged skin cells. Melaka Fruit (Phyllanthus emblica) contains more than 30 times Vitamin C
compared to oranges and it is planted for landscaping purposes in the State of Melaka. Looking
at its potential and benefits to skin, a research has been conducted to produce a facial serum from
Phyllanthus emblica. This research was to obtained the higher value of Vitamin C content using
cold-pressed method and determine shelf-life of Emblica facial serum. The High-Performance
Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) was used to determine Vitamin C value in the product, while the
accelerated time method was used to perform the shelf life study. Result showed that the presence
of Vitamin C in the Emblica facial serum is 2264.1mg/kg using cold pressed method compared to
only 700mg/kg by mixing with Vitamin C powder form slow heating method. Result also indicated
that the final formulation of the serum managed to prolonged the shelf life from 5 days to 1 year.
In conclusion, the Vitamin C content in emblica facial serum was increased through the cold
pressed method along with the significantly shelf life extension.
Keywords: Phyllanthus emblica, facial serum, vitamin C, shelf life
1. Introduction
Malaysia has hot and humid weather throughout the year. This resource will cause various skin
diseases such as rash and acne regardless of age or young. Such ailments can be treated through
various means, including facial cleansing with the right techniques and choosing the skin care that
suits their skin. In addition, inflammation, rash or acne also can be treated with serum.
Serum is a product that is capable to treat the skin and able to moisturize the skin with strong
ingredients. Its ability to absorb thoroughly and can be used as the most effective tool for skin
problems such as wrinkles, acne or rashes and inflammation of the skin. The use of this serum is
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beneficial to improve the regeneration process of the skin so that dead skin cells will be replaced
by a new skin layer and make the skin look smoother and radiant and free from wrinkles, acne and
inflammation. It contains tiny molecules that can penetrate to the deepest layers of the skin and
carry active ingredients with effective reactions. It acts more powerful than moisturizing and can
help increase the production of collagen on the skin resulting more elastic, fresh and youthful skin.
The antioxidant properties of vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and its role in collagen synthesis make
vitamin C a vital molecule for skin health (Alexander, 2011). Pokok Melaka Fruit (Phyllanthus
emblica) normally found in Malaysia and India is one of the richest sources of Vitamin C. Vitamin
C in the Phyllanthus emblica enhances nutrient absorption, eliminates free radicals, and helps in
flushing out toxins from the system. It acts as a powerful antioxidant and suitable to be used as
active ingredient in the facial serum and has a property of rapid absorption and ability to penetrate
into deeper layer of the skin (Ojha et. al., 2019).
2. Literature Review
Pokok Melaka is known as Indian gooseberry tree and scientifically known as Phyllanthus
emblica. The fruit of the Pokok Melaka has a sweet and astringent taste and has been used
extensively in Ayurvedic medicinal treatments. Scientific research on Melaka fruit or Indian
gooseberry has found that it has antiviral and antimicrobial properties. It has also been shown that
Melaka fruits has the ability to reduce blood cholesterol levels and decrease blood glucose.
Table 1: Major Nutrition content of Melaka fruit
Major Nutrient Value per 100 g % of RDA
Total Calories 48g 2.4
Total Fat 0.5g 0.5
Protein 1g -
Total Carbohydrate 20g 3
Water 86g -
Phenolic Compounds Gallic Acid 3012.5mg NA
According to Singh (2014), in every 100 grams of raw Melaka fruit (Phyllanthus emblica) contains
478 mg vitamin C and 5 grams of fiber content. The following values are approximate values,
which may differ according to variety, season and type of Phyllanthus emblica. The percentage of
recommended daily allowance is based on 2000 calories per day (Singh, 2014).
Figure 1: Melaka fruit (Phyllanthus emblica)
Scientific studies carried out in accordance with the philosophy of modern medicine have shown
Phyllanthus emblica to possess properties that can combat age-related illnesses such as cancer,
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diabetes, cardiac ailments, renal failure, immune suppression, arthritis, cataracts, and wrinkling of
skin (TeresaMathai, 2015).
2.1 Problem Statement
In Malaysia, the Melaka tree is known by the locals from a history on how one of the states in
Malaysia got its name as the State of Melaka. The Melaka Tree is planted for landscape element
at the local cultural & heritage waterfront as a result to understand about the function of trees in
role to enhance the characteristic of places (Hussain et. al, 2015). This happens because the locals
did not know that Melaka Fruit (Phyllanthus emblica) contains a lot of Vitamin C and has benefits
to health (Singh et.al, 2011). In spite of knowing the enormous health benefits of Melaka fruit,
many people avoid taking this fruit because of its extremely sour taste (Seghal, 2016).
This fruit contains 700mg Vitamin C in every 100g fresh Melaka Fruit (Ehrlich,2011 and
Gloryfrench,2006) and has antioxidant value. Therefore, to publicize Phyllanthus emblica among
the locals, researchers came out with producing a facial serum from Phyllanthus emblica. Since
Malaysia has warm and wet climate all year. This makes the aging process of your skin faster than
normal period and this facial serum are essential any time of the year. Malacca fruits contains high
Vitamin C. Vitamin C can increase the collagen production in the skin which helps get rid of
wrinkles. It also brightens and tighten the skin, reduce the effects of negative sun exposure and
help skin repair itself.
3. Method
There are two methods in obtaining the research objectives. The first method is extraction of
Phyllanthus emblica. The second method in determination of vitamin C content.
3.1 Extraction of Phyllanthus emblica
For the extraction method of Phyllanthus emblica, 10 kg Phyllanthus emblica was weighed and
multipurpose extractor machine was used to produce 1 Litre extract. The process as flow chart in
Figure 3.1.
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Figure 2: Extraction process of Phyllanthus emblica
Referring to Figure 2, the extraction method starts with weighing the Melaka fruit (Phyllanthus
emblica) after screening physical defect of the raw material. Then, 10 kg of Phyllanthus emblica
was cleaned and washed. Using multipurpose extractor machine 10kg fruit able to produce 1 litre
liquid extract. Next, the extract was poured into glass bottle and store in chiller (1-4ºC).
3.2 Samples
The standard formulation (control) of Phyllanthus emblica facial serum is as in Table 2, where the
control formulation comprises mixture of 30ml glycerine, 75ml water and 15ml extract of
Phyllanthus emblica.
Table 2: Standard Formulation of Facial Serum
Item Measurement (ml)
Glycerin 30
Aqua 75
Extract of Phyllanthus emblica (1:5) 15
For Formulation 1 comprises mixture of 25ml glycerine, 75ml water, 15ml extract of Phyllanthus
emblica, 4.3ml tocopheryl acetate, 0.6ml Frankincense essential oil and 0.1g Tetrasodium EDTA,
as shown in Table 3.
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Table 3: Formulation I
Item Measurement (ml)
Glycerin 30
Tocopheryl acetate 4.3
Boswellia carterii (Frankincense) oil 0.6
Tetrasodium EDTA 0.1
Aqua 75
Extract of Phyllanthus emblica (1:5) 15
Referring to Table 4, the Formulation 2 comprises mixture of 25ml glycerine, 75ml water, 15ml
extract of Phyllanthus emblica, 4.3ml tocopheryl acetate, 0.6ml Geranium essential oil and 0.1g
Tetrasodium EDTA.
Table 4: Formulation II
Item Measurement (ml)
Glycerin 30
Tocopheryl acetate 4.3
Pelargonium graveolens (Geranium) Oil 0.6
Tetrasodium EDTA 0.1
Aqua 75
Extract of Phyllanthus emblica (1:5) 15
For the final formulation; Formulation 3 comprises mixture of 25ml glycerine, 75ml water, 15ml
extract of Phyllanthus emblica, 4.3ml tocopheryl acetate, 0.3ml Geranium essential oil, 0.3ml
Frankinscene essential oil and 0.1g Tetrasodium EDTA.
Table 5: Formulation III
Item Measurement (ml)
Glycerin 30
Tocopheryl acetate 4.3
Boswellia carterii (Frankincense) oil 0.3
Pelargonium graveolens (Geranium) oil 0.3
Tetrasodium EDTA 0.1
Aqua 75
Extract of Phyllanthus emblica (1:5 ) 15
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3.3 Production process
For facial serum process, 3 formulations were developing to find the suitable mixture.These 3
formulation for standard formulation (control), Formulation 1 (Boswellia carterii (Frankincense)
oil), Formulation 2 (Pelargonium graveolens (Geranium) Oil) and Formulation 3 (Boswellia
carterii (Frankincense) oil) + Pelargonium graveolens (Geranium) Oil) were compared based on
their observation included odour, colour and texture to find the final formulation. Production
process of Emblica facial serum is shown in Figure 3.
Take 15ml of
Phyllanthus emblica Wash and clean the Final weigh the
liquid extract. Put in bottle after capping bottle to make sure
a beaker and mix process to make meet the desired net
with other active sure no traces of dirt weight
ingredients. on the bottle.
Transfer the product
Transfer and split into filling and
the mixture into two Label and code the
capping machine. bottle for
60ml centrifuge Set the machine for
tubes, vortex for 1 ingredient and
15ml filling and manufacturing date
minute at 450 rpm proceed with
capping the bottle.
After well mixed,
check the product for Clean the bottle use
quality in terms of for packaging using Store the final
desired pH reading air pressure product in room
(pH5.5), appearance, cleaning. temperature.
color and odor.
Figure 3: Production process of Emblica facial serum
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3.4 Data Analysis
There are two types of analysis that researchers have done to determine the quality of Phyllanthus
emblica facial serum which are the Vitamin C analysis and Shelf Life Study. This analysis was
carried out by chemist in Melaka Institute of Biotechnology.
Vitamin C content was measured by using High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC)
instrument. This instrument was chosen considering of heat sensitivity of Vitamin C from the
sample. As for shelf life study, test parameters are used to identify the shelf life extension of the
product. Test parameters are including Total Coliform Test, Total Yeast & Mold count, Salmonella
test, Ecsherichia Coli test and Aerobic plate count.
4. Results and Discussion
Previous studies have reported the fruits of P. emblica contain high amount of vitamin C. In our
study, by using the proportion 1:5 (P. emblica extract: glycerin), the result obtained are in Table
6.
Table 6: Vitamin C result in Emblica Facial Serum
Test parameter Result
Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) 2264.1mg/kg
(Melaka Biotechnology Corporation, 2019)
Comparing to the previous research of Emblica Facial Serum has been identified to have increase
in vitamin C content from 700mg/kg to 2264.1mg/kg. As shown in Table 7, it is indicated that the
cold pressed extraction method is more suitable in the production of facial serum compared to
powder production using slow heating technique. The epidermis, or skin, normally contains
vitamin C, but aging and atmospheric pollutants can deplete the amount needed to keep skin
healthy (Chistova, 2018). Addition Vitamin C from P. emblica in this serum was expected to be
beneficial in promoting skin renewal. This is supported by Michels et. al., (2014) stated that in cell
culture models, addition of vitamin C promotes the synthesis of barrier lipids, which would
establish a functioning stratum corneum with low water permeability.
Table 7: Comparison of methods resulting Vitamin C content in Emblica Facial Serum
Test method Result
Cold press extraction 2264.1mg/kg
Slow heating 700.00mg/kg
(Melaka Biotechnology Corporation, 2017 and Melaka Biotechnology Corporation, 2019)
As for shelf life result, accelerated time method was used in performing the shelf life test for
Emblica Facial Serum. The trial period is shortened by deliberately increasing the rate of
deterioration. By incubating the sample at 370C, the equivalency is 1 year = 13 weeks (3.25
months), the result obtained are as in Table 8. According to (Shainhouse, 2019) the active
ingredients might lose of their stability such as vitamin C or may potency over time, but if the
product looks unaffected, it is not harmful to use for at least a year (Tigar, 2019).
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Table 8: Shelf life result of Emblica Facial Serum
Test Parameter Unit Result (4-14weeks)
Total Coliform
Total Yeast & Mold count
Salmonella Cfu/ml nil
Escherichia Coli
Aerobic plate count
(Melaka Biotechnology Corporation, 2019)
Ingredients used in Emblica Facial Serum is beneficial to consumer skin. In final formulation
researhers had mixed Emblica fruit with Boswellia carterii oil, Pelargonium graveolens oil,
glycerin, tocopherol acetate, tetrasodium EDTA and aqua. This is to balance the smell, enhancing
the serum effect and prolonged shelf life.
Referring to Banno et al., (2006), stated that frankincense oil promotes regeneration of healthy
cells and also keeps the existing cells and tissues healthy. This aspect of frankincense oil together
with its powerful astringent capabilities, creates a potent ingredient. It can help to eliminate sun
spots, remove micro-wrinkles around the eyes and cheeks, and generally tone and tighten skin all
over the body, while simultaneously helping to replace old or dying cells with new, healthy ones.
It was also reported by Weckesser et al., (2007) Boswellia serrata extract also exhibits anti-
bacterial and anti-fungal activities. Therefore, making it is suitable to be used in this facial serum
production.
Glycerin act as main solvent of Emblica Facial Serum. It gave smooth spreadable gelling texture
of the serum. This made the serum easily to be applied onto skin. It also aiding in providing soft
and moist effect after application. Referring to Nikitakis and Breslawec (2014), glycerin has the
ability to attract moisture from the air and hold it where known as hygroscopicity, is one of the
most valuable properties.
In the final formulation, Tocopheryl acetate (Vitamin E) was used as the preservative agent. Form
the shelf life study, this method is suitable to prolonged the shelf life of serum and maintaining its
odor, texture and color. This is relevant with research finding from Keen and Hassan (2016) stated
that Vitamin E is an important fat-soluble antioxidant and has been in use in dermatology. It is a
naturally occurring component of healthy skin and promotes significant antioxidant properties in
order to help defend from pollution and other environmental stressors that would otherwise weaken
skin, causing unwanted changes. Tocopheryl acetate (Vitamin E) in the serum also act as
antioxidant, as stated by Halliwell and Gutteridge, (2000) reporting that antioxidant can be defined
as any chemical substance which, when present at a relatively low concentration in the body, can
significantly delay or prevent oxidation of substrates which help to protect body from damaging
compounds called free radicals.
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Besides the Tocopheryl acetate (Vitamin E), Tetrasodium ETDA was also used as additional
additive to extend the serum’s shelf life up to 2 years. The application of Tetrasodium EDTA in
this experiment is relevant with practice by The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel which
evaluated the scientific data and concluded that disodium ETDA and related ingredients (including
tetrasodium EDTA) were safe as used in cosmetic ingredients and personal care products.
5. Conclusion
This Emblica Facial Serum is suitable to be applied as facial serum due to its vitamin C content.
Referring to Baliga (2015) stated that P. emblica benefits to health and shown to possess myriad
medicinal benefits and to possess anti-aging effects. Melaka Fruit (Phyllanthus emblica) contains
a lot of Vitamin C and has benefits to health (Singh et.al, 2014). This fruit contains 700mg Vitamin
C in every 100g fresh Melaka Fruit (Ehrlich,2011 and Gloryfrench,2006) and has antioxidant value
Vitamin C is an antioxidant that fight excess free radicals to facial skin.
In order to reduce the loss of Vitamin C in the process of facial serum production, researchers have
replaced the low and slow heating method with the cold pressed method using the multipurpose
extractor machine. The use of multipurpose extractor machine has successfully aided in enhancing
Vitamin C content in the end product. This is because this machine is capable to process various
herbal plants and fruits and it does not apply any heat during the extraction process.
In assuring the Emblica Facial Serum is free from microbiological contamination such as yeast,
mold and bacteria, the shelf life test was performed. This to determination the period of time the
serum can be kept before it starts to deteriorate. This is also a quality indicator that the product is
safe to be used by consumers.
6. Acknowledgement
Greatest appreciation to the Almighty, Allah S.W.T because of His blessing, we managed to
complete this research with flying colours. A very special gratitude goes out to all down at TVET
applied research grant scheme for helping and providing the funding for the work. A special thanks
to our family and entire friends for their support and help. We would like to extend our appreciation
to those who supported us in any aspect during the completion of the project by discussing, sharing
and exchanging ideas. Greatest thanks to everyone who had been involved in this project directly
or indirectly. Thank you very much.
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