Ethical Fashion Africa Project Update - FAIR LABOR ASSOCIATION | INTERNATIONAL TRADE CENTER
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Improving Workers’ Lives Worldwide FAIR LABOR ASSOCIATION | INTERNATIONAL TRADE CENTER Ethical Fashion Africa Project Update
FLA - ITC EThICAL FAshIon AFrICA ProjECT UPdATE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY .................................................................................................................................... 2
INTRODUCTION ................................................................................................................................................. 3
OBJECTIVES .......................................................................................................................................................4
BACKGROUND ...................................................................................................................................................4
Labor Profile ................................................................................................................................................ 5
Jua Kali: Informal Sector in Kenya ......................................................................................................... 5
ITC and the Ethical Fashion Initiative.................................................................................................... 7
PROJECT ACTIVITIES ..................................................................................................................................... 10
Awareness Building on Standards ....................................................................................................... 10
Tool Adaptation and Development...................................................................................................... 10
Supply Chain Mapping and Task and Risk Mapping ........................................................................ 10
Training Needs Assessment ................................................................................................................... 11
Development of EFAL’s Internal Systems ...........................................................................................12
Field Visits ..................................................................................................................................................12
Impact Assessment ................................................................................................................................13
Information Collection and Definition of Social Indicators ............................................................13
Collecting Information from Workers through Photo Elicitation .................................................14
Developing, Defining and Using the Impact Assessment Methodology...................................15
Review of the Methodology .......................................................................................................................15
Assessments and Data Analysis ...............................................................................................................16
FLA’s Baseline Assessment Methodology and Key Recommendations...................................... 16
RECOMMENDATIONS AND GUIDELINES FOR FLA INDEPENDENT EXTERNAL ASSESSMENT .. 19
FLA’s Assessment Approach ................................................................................................................. 19
Assessment at the Community Level ...................................................................................................21
CONCLUSION ...................................................................................................................................................22
ANNEX I: Extended and Outreach Community Groups that EFAL is working with ........................23
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EXECUTIVE SUMMARY FLA led a number of activities in the sourcing
communities of ITC’s local subsidiary, Ethical
In support of its mission to promote and Fashion Africa Limited (EFAL), based in
protect workers’ rights, and to improve Nairobi. Existing FLA tools on risk and supply
working conditions globally, the Fair Labor chain mapping were adapted to the informal
Association (FLA) continuously engages sector1 while some others, such as photo
with other organizations in strategic (special) elicitation and social impact assessments,
projects. These projects help address specific were developed specifically around the
areas of risk for noncompliance with labor artisan groups. EFAL carried out a number of
standards, or targeted issues identified by baseline and follow-up impact assessments
affiliates. They often allow FLA to pilot new with extensive trainings conducted in
tools to assess labor compliance and evaluate between. Lastly, FLA tested independent
risks. These special projects often lead to the external assessments for the informal sector
development of creative strategies in unique, and made recommendations for how its
nontraditional sectors or in underserved methodology could be adapted for this
communities. sector.
In early 2010, FLA launched a pilot project This has led to the creation of FLA’s FAIR-
with the International Trade Centre (ITC) and ART (Artisans for Responsible Trade)
its Ethical Fashion Initiative, which promotes project. Additionally, ITC’s Ethical Fashion
trade within marginalized communities of Initiative is slated to expand to other parts
artisans. ITC’s Ethical Fashion Initiative is part of the world (Haiti, Ghana, Mali and Burkina
of a larger program – the Poor Communities Faso), following a similar approach to social
and Trade Program – which aims to reduce responsibility based on learnings from this
global poverty through the generation project. Ongoing collaboration between ITC
of trade opportunities for marginalized and FLA has the potential to improve the
communities and micro producers in the lives of thousands more workers, and have an
developing world. impact in informal sectors at a large scale.
The first two years of the pilot project aimed
at assessing the needs of this informal sector
of artisans; developing the methodology;
and building the necessary tools to address
labor issues. Additional tools were created to
measure the impact of working with the ITC-
Ethical Fashion Initiative on the livelihoods
of communities producing goods for them in
Kenya and Uganda.
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INTRODUCTION
In February 2010, FLA welcomed the
affiliation of Ethical Fashion Africa Limited
(EFAL) – a subsidiary of the International
Trade Centre (ITC). 2 As a nonprofit
Participating Company with nontraditional
supply chain, the affiliation of EFAL has been
handled as a special project.
ITC’s Ethical Fashion Initiative of the Poor
Communities and Trade Program is based
on an inclusive business3 model that offers
job and income opportunities to informal
producers from marginalized communities
and works with women groups in Kenya4 and
Uganda5, mostly groups of micro-producers
based in poor rural and urban settings. The
initiative enables disadvantaged communities
and their groups of informal manufacturers
to become part of the global supply chain,
thus developing their export capacities and
strengthening their position in the domestic,
A woman working in one of the communities that partners with EFAL.
2 regional and global markets. It is based on a
joint effort of ITC and Ethical Fashion Africa
Ltd. (EFAL), a not-for-profit entity based in
Nairobi, which manages, in collaboration with
ITC, all the business operations and the social
agenda of the Ethical Fashion Initiative in East
Africa.
EFAL’s supply chain extends to informal
workshops, artisan communities and home-
based work in Kenya and Uganda.
Within the “aid for trade” framework,
the Ethical Fashion Initiative has strong
social objectives that aim at improving
the livelihoods of the communities they
work with. A part of these objectives is a
commitment towards fair labor conditions
and the empowerment of workers. In support
of this goal, ITC partnered with FLA on a pilot
project to better assess and control risks in
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FLA - ITC EThICAL FAshIon AFrICA ProjECT UPdATE
the program’s supply chain and strengthen FLA affiliates or organizations working with
its outreach by implementing remedial and the informal sector. The report concludes
capacity building measures that help improve with recommendations and an outline of
the lives of workers. This pilot project is the framework for FLA’s future independent
aimed at adapting and extending FLA’s external monitoring in informal settings.
work into the informal sector with tailor-
made methodology and tools to address the
specific needs of this sector.
BACKGROUND
Kenya has a land area of 580,000 sq. kms and
a population of nearly 41 million, representing
OBJECTIVES
various ethnic groups: Kikuyu, Luhya, Luo,
The main objectives of this pilot collaboration Kalenjin, Kamba, Kisii, Meru, Mijikenda,
are to: Masai and Turkana. About 40 percent of
đƫ 1,,+.0ƫ ƫ * ƫ ƫ%*ƫ0$!ƫ the population reside in urban areas and 60
understanding and implementation percent live in rural areas.
of labor standards in the artisan
Following a referendum and adoption of
communities and empowering workers
a new constitution in August 2010, Kenya
by being part of the Ethical Fashion
was divided into 47 counties with semi-
Initiative;
autonomous units of governance. These
đƫ //!//ƫ0$!ƫ*!! /Ďƫ !ü*!ƫ0$!ƫ units are expected to be fully operational by
methodology; and develop tools to August 2012 – in time for the first general
monitor and remediate labor issues in election under the new constitution. The
informal workplaces; counties will be governed by elected officials
and will operate independently of the central
đƫ !*0%"5ƫ0$!ƫ)! *%*#ƫ+"ƫ , %05ƫ 1%( %*#ƫ
government in Nairobi.
for artisan communities and develop
tailored training programs; The capital, Nairobi, is a regional commercial
đƫ +ƫ !5+* ƫ0$!ƫ.! ()/ƫ+"ƫ/+ % (ƫ hub. Kenya has the largest gross domestic
compliance to develop a methodology product (GDP) in East and Central Africa. The
and tools to measure the social impact agriculture industry is a major employer, and
of the program on the livelihood of the the country traditionally exports tea, coffee,
workers and communities; and – more recently – fresh flowers to Europe.
However, about half of the population lives
đƫ !2!(+,ƫ ƫ)!0$+ +(+#5ƫ"+.ƫ%* !,!* !*0ƫ below the poverty line.6
external assessment and monitoring of
artisan clusters in the informal sector. Although Kenya is the most industrially
developed country in East Africa,
This report describes project activities from manufacturing accounts for only 14 percent
2010 - 2012, beginning with background of GDP. Industrial activity is concentrated
information on the informal sector in Kenya, around Nairobi, Mombasa and Kisumu -
where the project is implemented. The the three largest urban centers - and is
report outlines the activities carried out by dominated by food-processing industries,
EFAL and FLA and provides a description such as grain milling, beer production,
of the methodology and tools developed
throughout the project, which can be used by
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Number, 000’s
2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010*
Private
agriculture and 272.4 280.3 289.0 289.7 288.0 291.8
forestry
Rest of private
885.0 927.4 992.7 1,016.2 1,058.5 1,105.2
sector
Public service 654.2 649.9 628.1 638.0 653.5 663.4
Total 1,811.6 1,857.6 1,909.8 1,943.9 2,000.1 2,060.4
Table 1: Wage employment by sector of activity, 2005-2010.
Source: Kenya National Bureau of Statistics.
* Provisional
JUA KALI: INFORMAL SECTOR IN KENYA
As in most developing countries, the
sugarcane crushing, and the production of organized sector is unable to absorb the
consumer goods. There is also a fast-growing growing number of jobseekers and therefore,
cement industry, and Kenya hosts an oil the informal sector fills the gap9. It is
refinery which processes imported crude estimated that the workforce of the informed
petroleum into products mainly for domestic sector is some 6.4 million workers.
consumption. In addition, a substantial
and expanding informal sector commonly Typical activities associated with the informal
referred to as Jua Kali engages in small-scale sector in Kenya are10:
manufacturing of household goods, motor- đƫ /!((%*#ƫ".1%0/ƫ * ƫ2!#!0 (!/Ď
vehicle parts and farm instruments. đƫ "++ ƫ+,!. 0%+*Čƫ/ (!ƫ * ƫ,.+ !//%*#Ď
LABOR PROFILE đƫ /!((%*#ƫ (+0$!/ƫ * ƫ/$+!/ƫĨ +0$ƫ/! +* ġ
hand and new);
In 2010, the composition of Kenya’s GDP was:
17 percent agriculture; 17 percent industry and đƫ '%+/'/ƫ/!((%*#ƫ2 .%+1/ƫ%0!)/Ď
commerce; 59 percent services. Formal sector đƫ 3 0!.ƫ'%+/'/Ď
wage earners were approximately 2 million,
đƫ /) ((ƫ.!0 %(!./ƫ+.ƫ$ 3'!./ƫ3$+ƫ/!((ƫ !.! (/Čƫ
of which 30 percent were in the public sector
home supplies, fuels and other goods;
and 70 percent in the private sector.7
đƫ /) ((ƫ) *1" 01.%*#Čƫ,.+ 1 0%+*Čƫ
According to the Kenya National Bureau of
construction and repair of goods;
Statistics8, the most current employment
statistics are: đƫ $ * % . "0ƫ * ƫ# .)!*0/Ď
đƫ /$+!ƫ,.+ 1 0%+*ƫ * ƫ.!, %.ċƫ
7 U.S. Department of State, Background Note: Kenya, www.state.
gov/r/pa/ei/bgn/2962.htm
9 Source: http://www.nayd.org/PDF/The%20informal%20sector%20
8 Source: http://www.knbs.or.ke/Labour_Basic_Min_wages.php in%20Kenya.pdf
10 World Bank: Kenya inside Informality: poverty, jobs, housing and
services in Nairobi’s slums, May 31, 2006, report no.36347-KE
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According to the 2006 World Bank report
on the Kenyan informal sector focusing on
housing, social services provision and slums,
there has been an increase in the activities
and involvement of the population in this
sector. This is largely due to the privatization
of the public sector and the rise in the
unemployment rate, especially among the
youth.
Poverty is rising especially in Kenya’s urban
areas. This has resulted in a growing number
of slums, which house the vast majority of
the urban poor. Approximately 73 percent
of urban slum dwellers are poor11. Rents
are quite high in the slums, despite the
poor quality of the buildings. The landlords
often build these shelters in an unplanned
manner, using low-quality materials (e.g.,
mud, timber, iron sheets) and without basic
necessities such as toilets, water sources, or
garbage disposal systems. The tenants have In the last decade, access to finance, services
no permanent or formal contracts with the and training has increased - even though it
landlords and may face eviction at any time. is not well distributed. This has resulted in
Slum residents are stuck in what is referred to a dramatic development of micro and small
as a “high cost, low quality trap” (World Bank, enterprises (MSEs). More and more married
2006, p.43). Engaging in the varied activities women create MSEs to boost the family’s
of the informal sector is the only way for slum income. In most cases, the husbands provide
dwellers to earn an income. the capital for starting the business. However,
one of the biggest problems facing MSEs
The informal sector is referred to as “Jua Kali”
in Kenya is that the husbands often feel
in Kenya, which literally means “fierce sun”
threatened by the success of such businesses
in Swahili. Kenya’s informal sector is large
and withdraw the financial support or bar
and dynamic, including 95 percent of the
their wives from operating the business.
country’s businesses and entrepreneurs. The
This has led women to diversify ways to
Kenyan government has established a Ministry
empower themselves by forming saving clubs
of Technical Training and Applied Technology
to ensure their economic independence and
(MTTAT), to raise the very low skill-level of the
development.
workers, and MTTAT has been charged with
developing training programs for the informal
sector12.
11
12
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ITC AND THE ETHICAL FASHION
INITIATIVE13
ITC acts as a liaison between the international
It is in this specific context that ITC and buyers and EFAL. Working with design
EFAL got involved in 2009, in working teams from partner companies in Europe and
mainly with marginalized communities of around the world, ITC’s team develops the
women in Kenya and Uganda to supply designs through the EFAL Hub – a design
income-generating opportunities to assist centre, administrative office and workshop in
the groups in reducing poverty. The Ethical Nairobi. ITC also plays an important role in
Fashion Initiative enables international marketing EFAL activities to ensure regularity
fashion companies and distributors to source in the flow of orders and to raise awareness
from African communities without bias in among consumers on ethical issues.
price or quality, thus allowing groups of
EFAL includes a team of full-time
marginalized artisans to become part of the
management staff that facilitates business
larger global value chain. The program thus
interactions with international companies.
contributes to reducing poverty by offering
Most of these people have been selected
trade opportunities to micro-producers and
from local community groups, after
marginalized artisan groups. EFAL’s supply
demonstrating their management or
chain model is set out in Figure 1.
Figure 1: Functioning of EFAL’s supply chain model
13
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technical abilities. The Hub (EFAL The Hub also acts as an incubator to foster
headquarters) houses a Product Development small hubs at the community level. The
Centre where the initial product development vision is to reproduce smaller independent
takes place. Also at the Hub is a team of entities that EFAL can rely on for planning,
tailors and people with other skills who production, quality control, etc. The majority
undertake critical production processes. of these micro-entrepreneur groups are
The logistics of placing orders in the organized into Self-Help Groups14 with a goal
community, and the supplies are managed of achieving economic empowerment.
from the Hub. EFAL currently employs 39
At the outset of the FLA project, EFAL was
people, including: managers, accountants,
working with 30 community groups. Since
product developers, quality control officers,
then, EFAL made a strategic decision to
production supervisors, packing and shipping
consolidate work with fewer groups and
managers, tailors, embroiderers, beaders and
strengthen the collaboration. Reasons for this
preparation staff. Critical path production
consolidation include the ability to provide
processes take place at the Hub along
more regular work, deliver better training,
side final quality assurance, packaging and
and offer more control over product quality
shipment. The Hub is also responsible for
and labor standards at the community level.
carrying out sampling, price setting, training
The core community groups EFAL is currently
and preparation before the work is sent out
working with in Kenya are presented in Table
to the communities. Orders are usually sent to
215 on the following page.
the communities for a particular task (such as
embroidery, screen printing, embellishments,
metal working, etc.) when they are large
enough and incorporate the skills represented
14
in the community groups. When placing
orders with community groups, EFAL sends
in-house supervisors to each group to impart
training and to supervise the production
process. All pieces produced are then sent 15
back to the Hub for finishing, quality control,
packing and shipping.
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Table 2: Core community groups working with EFAL for the Ethical Fashion Initiative, 2012
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PROJECT ACTIVITIES of a certain product. These tools were then
shared with ITC – EFAL, who then conducted
Since EFAL joined FLA in 2010, a series of a task and risk mapping exercise for each
joint and independent activities have been community group.
carried out in relation to the project. The
following section describes the different In phase one of the project, FLA and ITC/
activities that have helped shape the EFAL also developed a methodology in to
program. measure the impact of the Ethical Fashion
Initiative on the livelihoods and well being of
AWARENESS BUILDING ON STANDARDS the workers involved in the program based
on a study framework inspired by a previous
EFAL has built an understanding about the study by Marsha Dickson and Mary Littrell on
importance of the FLA’s Workplace Code of artisans working for a fair trade organization16
Conduct in the communities where it operates in a Mumbai (India) slum. The work done in
through continuous local engagement. The the slums of Mumbai helped FLA to identify a
Code is shared in a practical way with the set of preliminary social indicators that were
groups and the issues are re-iterated with further refined to fit the specific context of
the placement of each new order. ITC and Africa and the involved communities. This
EFAL have outlined detailed policies and was achieved through consultation with local
procedures that follow, amongst others, experts on the draft social indicators and
the guidelines of ISO 26000 as well as FLA the input from the workers using a photo-
standards. They organize ongoing awareness elicitation mechanism.
building activities of these policies and
standards to all actors in the immediate FLA and EFAL also developed a Social
supply chain. EFAL is developing internal Impact Assessment Tool that became a
control systems to ensure adherence to these cornerstone of EFAL’s internal monitoring
standards. methodology. EFAL conducts Impact
Assessments (social and economic) for
TOOL ADAPTATION AND DEVELOPMENT each production order. The results are made
available to the customer on request and
FLA’s first activity as part of this project serve as valuable information to track the
was to adapt its supply chain and task and social impact of the opportunities provided
risk mapping tools to the informal sector. A to the groups against the increased income
section on home and community workers was generated.
added to the tool to track information on the
tasks performed, characteristics of the work SUPPLY CHAIN MAPPING AND TASK AND
force, conditions of employment, and whether RISK MAPPING
informal or formal management systems
were in place. The tools are self-managed, to EFAL’s field staff has used FLA’s tools to
help companies and organizations to better complete the mapping exercise. The data
understand their supply chains and the are then reviewed by FLA staff to make a
processes involved in the manufacturing of a preliminarily assessment of the supply chain,
product. The tools are designed to provide an including the tasks and labor risks involved.
overview of the supply chain in a particular For example, they identified the need for
country and to map all the tasks and
associated risks involved in the production 16 Artisans and Fair Trade
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strengthening internal management systems Overall, the task and risk mapping exercise
(creation of policies and procedures and informed EFAL and helped them to start
their implementation) at the Hub and the shaping up their internal processes by
community level. The lack of information on identifying priority issues for each community.
the labor profile of the communities was also
identified as a risk. Indeed, due to the casual TRAINING NEEDS ASSESSMENT
nature of the work place, employee-employer
In 2011, ITC and EFAL organized an
relationships were seldom present and labor
assessment of the various groups to identify
tracking was nonexistent. Therefore, it was
their training and capacity building needs.
difficult to develop an internal monitoring and
From this needs assessment (conducted by
remediation program in the absence of any
EFAL), a training program was developed.
data about the beneficiaries of the program.
Training and capacity building took place
A third example of risk identified was the
throughout 2011. The training was pertinent
lack of a grievance procedure, deprivings
to newly-formed groups and the issues they
workers at the Hub and communities with
faced in working together, and included the
an opportunity or channel to raise their
following topics:
complaints and solve them in a systemic and
timely manner. đƫ +*ý% 0ƫ) * #!)!*0ƫ * ƫ +*ý% 0ƫ
resolution;
FLA advised EFAL staff to implement a basic
đƫ %* * % (ƫ(%0!. 5Ď
labor tracking system through registry books
in each community to collect information on: đƫ !*!. (ƫ(%"!ƫ/'%((/ƫ * ƫ 3 .!*!//ƫ+*ƫ$! (0$ƫ
đƫ ( +.ƫ,.+ü(!ƫĨ3+.'!./Ěƫ #!Čƫ#!* !.Čƫ* )!Čƫ issues;
attendance); đƫ ƫ+ !ƫ+"ƫ+* 1 0ċ
đƫ ,.+ 1 0%+*ƫĨ*1) !.ƫ+"ƫ,%! !/ƫ) !ƫ 5ƫ
each worker); Subsequent to the FLA field visit in early
2012, discussions were held in Kenya on
đƫ $+1./ƫ+"ƫ3+.'ƫĨ0%)!ġ%*ƫ * ƫ0%)!ġ+10ĩĎƫ adopting a more practical approach with the
đƫ ,.!/!* !ƫ+"ƫ +*0. 0/ƫĨ2!. (ƫ+.ƫ3.%00!*ĩĎ groups to inform them about labor standards.
The plan is for the group to receive continued
đƫ 3 #!/ƫ! .*! ċ guidance and revised training in 2012 with
assistance from FLA.
The objective of this activity was to better
know the labor profile in EFAL’s supply chain In March 2012, ITC conducted another training
and ultimately advise what kind of internal needs assessment at both the EFAL Hub
monitoring and intervention is needed at and community level. Two trainers from
the work place. In some of the communities ITC conducted a general survey in order to
where some form of employer-employee develop an appropriate training program
relationships exists, FLA advised EFAL to be related to general management, financial
particularly vigilant about working conditions. management, trade and exports. The trainers
In contrast, in a tribal artisan community conducted a Learning Style Questionnaire
where the women work together to complete for each of the groups to assess how each
a certain order and the money is divided group/sector prefers to learn. Relevant
equally amongst them, the application of the training material and methods (visual, audio
full Workplace Code of Conduct may be less or activity based learning) will be developed
relevent. based on this feedback.
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A training program is being developed for đƫ +.'%*#ƫ3%0$ƫ Čƫ ƫ$ /ƫ/0 * . %6! ƫ
2012, and a subject matter expert is engaged its impact assessment methodology
to conduct training on the following topics: which now includes the different tools
đƫ !*!. (ƫ 1/%*!//ƫ) * #!)!*0ƫ * ƫ used to measure impact (questionnaires,
operations matrix, etc.) and guidance on the
methodology.
đƫ %* * % (ƫ) * #!)!*0
đƫ 4,+.0ƫ) * #!)!*0 FIELD VISITS
Since the project launch, FLA staff have been
DEVELOPMENT OF EFAL’S INTERNAL
in regular touch with ITC and EFAL and have
SYSTEMS
conducted field visits in order to understand
In the past two years, EFAL has systematically the peculiarities of the informal sector and
initiated activities to develop and strengthen develop meaningful tools. Supported by ITC,
internal systems to implement fair labor FLA has conducted three field visits during
standards and operational procedures at both the project.
the Hub and community levels. đƫ *ƫ 1*!ƫĂĀāĀČƫ ƫ.!/% !*0ƫ1.!0ƫ2 *ƫ
đƫ $.+1#$ƫ.!#1( .ƫ)+*%0+.%*#ƫ * ƫ0. %*%*#ƫ Heerden – along with two members from
by the social department, the community ITC’s team – made the first field study
groups of micro-producers working with to get familiar with the systems at the
EFAL have adopted a worker registration EFAL Hub and the community level. A
and tracking system. This includes number of rural, urban and slum-based
information about the identity of workers, communities were visited. The objective
hours of work, and remuneration. This of the visit was to provide ITC and EFAL
system is continuously being improved with preliminary considerations on how
and adapted to the respective contexts to couple fair labor standards with their
of the groups. The Hub has improved social agenda. The need for designing a
its existing registration system and now methodology to conduct social impact
has a digital registry, which effectively assessment on the community groups
records relevant information on workers’ was also identified.
involvement in production as part of
đƫ *ƫ!,0!) !.ƫĂĀāĀČƫ "0!.ƫ/+)!ƫ3+.'ƫ+*ƫ
EFAL’s internal monitoring system.
the risk mapping results and development
đƫ ƫ, .0% %, 0+.5ƫ) * #!)!*0ƫ ,,.+ $ƫ of a social impact assessment
has been adopted in developing the methodology had been carried out, FLA’s
structures at EFAL and each department Projects Officer made a follow-up visit
has focus group meetings to develop focusing on the refinement of the Social
systems and conduct root cause analysis Impact Assessment (SIA) framework.
when required. During this visit, FLA tested the photo
elicitation method with a sample of
đƫ ƫ.! !*0(5ƫü* (%6! ƫ0$!ƫĂĀāĂƫ2!./%+*ƫ
workers who took pictures illustrating
of its Standard Operating Procedures
activities they performed during a typical
(SOP). This manual describes the systems
day. These photographs served as stimuli
and processes used by EFAL, ranging
during interviews to incorporate workers’
from technical processes of production,
perspectives in the definition of social
to management systems for interacting
indicators. In addition, FLA and ITC
with the informal sector.
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co-organized a consultation with local IMPACT ASSESSMENT
academics and experts in order to:
*!ƫ+"ƫ0$!ƫ) %*ƫ+10 +)!/ƫ%*ƫ0$!ƫü./0ƫ5! .ƫ
i. solicit feedback on design of the social of the project has been the development
impact assessment process; of the Social Impact Assessment (SIA)
ii. seek advice on pre-selected social )!0$+ +(+#5ċƫ$%/ƫ)!0$+ +(+#5ƫ ((+3/ƫ
indicators and get input to complete, measuring the impact of an intervention
improve and refine them; program on the capabilities, livelihood and
3!((ƫ !%*#ƫĨ) 0!.% (Čƫ,/5 $+(+#% (Čƫ,$5/% (ƫ
iii. seek advice on the workers’ and social) of the workers involved. The
questionnaire (taking into account )!0$+ +(+#5ƫ3 /ƫ !2!(+,! ƫ"+((+3%*#ƫ ƫ
cultural specificities); and ( //% ƫ.!/! . $ƫ ,,.+ $ƫĨ%#1.!ƫĂĩċ
iv. establish relationships with credible
local organizations, experts and
academics for future collaboration.
More information on the SIA process is
available later in this report.
đƫ *ƫ! .1 .5ƫĂĀāĂČƫ Ě/ƫ%.! 0+.ƫ"+.ƫ
Agriculture and Strategic Projects and the
Projects Officer conducted another visit
to:
i. conduct an in-depth assessment of the
ƫĢƫ ƫ,.+#. )ƫ0+ƫ+ 0 %*ƫ /!(%*!ƫ
0 ƫ+*ƫ%*0!.* (ƫ) * #!)!*0ƫ/5/0!)/ƫ
and labor conditions; and
%%ċƫ 0!/0ƫ0$!ƫ ,,(% %(%05ƫ+"ƫ Ě/ƫ
independent external monitoring
)!0$+ +(+#5ƫ3%0$%*ƫ0$!ƫ%*"+.) (ƫ
sector.
Figure 2:ƫ+ % (ƫ ), 0ƫ//!//)!*0ƫ !0$+ +(+#5
ƫ $!ƫ ƫ0! )ƫ/,!*0ƫ03+ƫ 5/ƫ 0ƫ0$!ƫ
1 ƫ%*ƫ %.+ %ƫ * ƫ03+ƫ 5/ƫ%*ƫ0$!ƫü!( ƫ
visiting four of the ten communities that Information Collection and Definition of
ƫ 1..!*0(5ƫ!*# #!/ƫ3%0$Čƫ%* (1 %*#ƫ Social Indicators
Sanchat Charitable Trust in Gilgil; Baba
+#+ƫ%*ƫ +.+#+ $+Ďƫ0$!ƫ. //ƫ3+.'/$+,ƫ !ü*%*#ƫ ,,.+,.% 0!ƫ%* % 0+./ƫ3 /ƫ'!5ƫ0+ƫ
%*ƫ % !. Ďƫ * ƫ0$!ƫ / %ƫ ! !./ƫ%*ƫ conducting a relevant impact assessment.
the Ngong hills. The detailed results of Previous studies17ƫ$!(,! ƫ0+ƫ% !*0%"5ƫ ƫ
this assessment were communicated /!0ƫ+"ƫ,.!(%)%* .5ƫ/+ % (ƫ%* % 0+./Čƫ3$% $ƫ
0+ƫ ƫ * ƫ ƫ (+*#ƫ3%0$ƫ ƫ/!0ƫ+"ƫ were subjected to review in order to fit the
recommendations for improvement. specific context. This was achieved with
$!ƫ //!//)!*0ƫ)!0$+ +(+#5ƫ * ƫ'!5ƫ
17 Littrell and Dickson, 2010
recommendations are described later in
this report.
www.fairlabor.org 13FLA - ITC EThICAL FAshIon AFrICA ProjECT UPdATE
feedback from the workers through photo-
elicitation and through the consultation
of local experts, including professors from
local universities, social workers, labor
rights experts, nutritionists, doctors, and
anthropologists. To ensure the highest level
of accuracy with these assessments, ITC
organizes bi-annual workshops with this
group of experts to review and improve the
existing tool.
Collecting Information from Workers
through Photo Elicitation Picture taken by a member of the Maasai community (Ngong Hill) as
part of the photo elicitation exercise.
The photo elicitation method was employed
as a valuable field research tool to introduce They were explained the objective of the
the informants’ criteria for self-assessing photo elicitation exercise and were asked
workers’ lives. Photographs of the workers, to take pictures throughout the day, from
produced by the workers themselves, were the time when they woke up to when they
used as stimuli in an interview, leading to a 3!*0ƫ0+ƫ/(!!,ċƫƫ"!3ƫ3!!'/ƫ( 0!.Čƫ //!//+./ƫ
deeper understanding of what was valuable returned with the developed photographs,
in their lives. This method is particularly using them as stimuli to interview the same
helpful when dealing with illiterate workers, participants. Participants were asked to
or when the participants’ life-experience select the pictures depicting their typical
is dramatically different from that of the day, identifying the time of day, location,
researcher. The goal of this exercise was to people, and activities. This exercise resulted in
incorporate the workers’ perspective when measurable data, such as:
defining the social indicators. đƫ 0$!ƫ )+1*0ƫ+"ƫ0%)!ƫ,!.ƫ 5ƫ3+.'!./ƫ
/,!* ƫ+*ƫ! $ƫ0 /'ƫ * ƫ 0%2%05Ď
The photo elicitation method was first
used amongst a small sample of workers đƫ 0$!ƫ0$%*#/ƫ0$ 0ƫ .!ƫ)+/0ƫ %þ 1(0ƫ0+ƫ
(5 women), as an explorative approach to ) * #!ƫ 1.%*#ƫ0$!ƫ 5Ď
illustrate: đƫ 0$!ƫ) %*ƫ$+1/!$+( ƫ,.+ (!)/ƫ û! 0%*#ƫ
đƫ ƫ05,% (ƫ 5Ď 3+.'!./Ď
đƫ $+3ƫ3+.'!./Ěƫ2%!3ƫ0$!%.ƫ(%2!/Čƫ3+.'ƫ * ƫ đƫ 0$!ƫ,+/%0%2!ƫ * ƫ*!# 0%2!ƫ%), 0Ĩ/ĩƫ+"ƫ
+))1*%05Ď ƫ3+.'ƫ+*ƫ0$!%.ƫ(%2!/ƫ * ƫ3$ 0ƫ +1( ƫ
be improved.
đƫ 0$!ƫ0$%*#/ƫ0$!5ƫ +*/% !.ƫ0+ƫ !ƫ%),+.0 *0ĥ
2 (1 (!Ď
To illustrate, the following table describes the
đƫ $+3ƫ0$!ƫ3+.'ƫ0$!5ƫ +ƫ"+.ƫ ƫ%/ƫ ) %*ƫ %þ 1(0%!/ƫ" ! ƫ 5ƫ0$!ƫ ƫ3+.'!./ƫ
embedded in their daily routines. as well as the indicators that best measure
livelihood improvement according to their
Participants were provided with disposable own judgment:
cameras and were taught how to use them.
www.fairlabor.org 14FLA - ITC EThICAL FAshIon AFrICA ProjECT UPdATE
Table 3: Initial results of the photo elicitation exercise
The results gathered during the photo đƫ ,/5 $+(+#% (ƫ3!((ġ !%*#Ď
elicitation were used to guide the first
đƫ ,$5/% (ƫ3!((ġ !%*#Ď
brainstorming workshop with the experts
(September 2010), resulting in detailed đƫ /+ % (ƫ3!((ġ !%*#ċ
indicators and a questionnaire to conduct the
SIA. The workshop recommended testing the Review of the Methodology
methodology in the field.
Results of the SIA among micro-producers
Developing, Defining and Using the Impact was evaluated at a workshop in 2011. At
Assessment Methodology the time of the review workshop, ITC had
developed a complementary tool to gather
The SIA methodology was tested in 2011 quantitative information on economic
with a sample of ten community groups indicators. This tool, also known as a “Shocks
varying according to size, gender and Matrix”, demonstrates the difference between
age distribution, and other factors. The the participants’ income earned from the
facilitation and interviews were conducted domestic market and income earned through
by a local social worker with the necessary EFAL. In other words, it measures growth
communication skills who could easily in economic well-being as a result of ITC’s
gain trust within the communities. The intervention.
questionnaire derived from the photo
elicitation and workshop activities was used At the workshop, experts endorsed the,
to guide interviews with illiterate participants, Impact Assessment Tools (Questionnaire and
and self-administered questionnaires Matrix), calling them effective and relevant.
were given to literate participants. The They advised that the analysis be cognisant
questionnaires were designed to measure the of the categories involved and of the value
perceived impact of the ITC/EFAL program attached to skills, such as how much each
on the communities. Key areas of focus skill generates in terms of wage, and to what
included: extent the registered shock levels in rural
đƫ !)+#. ,$% ƫ * ƫ +))1*%05ƫ%*"+.) 0%+*Ď areas differ from urban areas. The experts
also recommended that hours of work be
đƫ ! +*+)% ƫ(%2!(%$++ ƫ * ƫ) 0!.% (ƫ3!((ġ factored into the matrix, and that progress be
being; recorded and tabulated over a period of time.
www.fairlabor.org 15FLA - ITC EThICAL FAshIon AFrICA ProjECT UPdATE
Assessments and Data Analysis The Impact Assessment methodology allows
ITC to measure the factual economic and
ITC/EFAL is currently conducting Impact
social impact on the beneficiaries of its
Assessments in the various communities
program. This allows ITC to identify the areas
where they place orders. They have
in which the impact is most significant, to
developed a methodology for data analysis
communicate findings to different audiences,
and use a well-known software (SPSS) to
and to guide the program’s social agenda. In
produce statistical results. The first set of
order to ensure the case-specific needs of
results helped ITC/EFAL to communicate
this ever-changing area of work are met, the
more effectively with the customers about
Impact Assessment methodology is subject
the impact of each order on the livelihoods
to continuous improvement to accommodate
of the workers. Box 1 presents an overview of
the various issues uncovered which are
preliminary data.
often related to the complexities of inclusive
business operations in developing countries.
Box 1: Preliminary Data Analysis from the Impact
Assessments FLA’S BASELINE ASSESSMENT
Over a fifth of those who work with the EFAL METHODOLOGY AND KEY
earn less than US$1 a day without orders from the RECOMMENDATIONS
Ethical Fashion Initiative. With orders from EFAL,
workers can earn $4 - $7 per day. Casual laborers In February 2012, FLA conducted an in-depth
earn less than artisans. assessment of the ITC/EFAL program to
obtain baseline data on internal management
There is no correlation between the level of
systems and labor conditions at both the Hub
education and the income of the artisans; even
and community levels. The questions included
with no formal education, an artisan who is highly
skilled in his/her trade can earn as much as her/his in the assessment are presented in Box 2.
production capacity allows.
The methodology involved a review of 1)
The women surveyed confirmed they had earned the supply chain mapping tool; 2) social
respect from their male counterparts, especially impact assessment data; and 3) photo
from their husbands, thanks to their ability to earn elicitation results. Communities were
a living and to take care of family needs as well as selected for visits based on this analysis.
restocking their animals.
94% of the people interviewed confirmed that
being involved with the program had increased
their self-confidence; 94% of the total respondents
said they had learned useful skills; 90% reported
that earnings from the program enabled them
to make improvements in their homes; 88%
mentioned their ability to make independent
financial decisions as the most important change
in life, and 54% cited the ability to invest; 86%
claimed that their diets improved, owing to
workplace meals, and 84% cited access to fresh
foods; 68% claimed the additional income allowed
them to eat three times a day as opposed to once
or twice a day.
EFAL’s workers and supervisors participating in participatory
workshops.
www.fairlabor.org 16FLA - ITC EThICAL FAshIon AFrICA ProjECT UPdATE
Tools from the FLA’s Worker Integration
Box 2: The assessment provided insight into how labor
standards were integrated into the management systems. Project (the PREPARE18 Dialogue Project)
Key questions included: were used to carry out participative
workshops. These focused on problem
đƫ .!ƫ *5ƫ +* .!0!ƫ,.+#. )ƫ+ &! 0%2!/ƫ/!0ĕ
identification, prioritization, solution finding
đƫ .!ƫ0$!ƫ,+(% %!/ƫ2%/% (!ƫ0$.+1#$+10ƫ0$!ƫ/1,,(5ƫ and communication at the Hub. Additional
$ %*ĕƫ focus group discussions, interviews with the
đƫ .!ƫ%*0!.)! % .%!/Čƫ/1,!.2%/+./ƫ * ƫ) * #!./ƫ management and workers, visual inspection
0. %*! ƫ0+ƫ%),(!)!*0ƫ0$!ƫ,.+#. )ĕƫ and documentation review were carried
out to further inform the assessment. More
đƫ +3ƫ .!ƫ,+(% %!/ƫ%),(!)!*0! Čƫ * ƫ *ƫ0$!5ƫ
than 20 workers (mostly supervisors) and
$%!2!ƫ0$!ƫ+ &! 0%2!/ĕƫ
seven management staff participated in the
đƫ $ 0ƫ'%* ƫ+"ƫ0. %*%*#ƫ * ƫ,.+ !//!/ƫ .!ƫ/!0ƫ assessment workshop at the Hub Level. In
1,ƫ"+.ƫ%),(!)!*0 0%+*ĕ addition, six individual interviews and two
đƫ $ 0ƫ)! */ƫ * ƫ.!/+1. !/ƫ .!ƫ1/! ƫ"+.ƫ focus group discussions were carried out
implementation (training, responsibilities, at the community level with approximately
+*0.+(Čƫ!0 ċĩĕ 15 community members. EFAL and FLA
đƫ *ƫ+. !.ƫ0+ƫ //!//ƫ +*0.+(ƫ * ƫ.!,+.0%*#Čƫ .!ƫ
staff conducted a separate workshop for
any indicators developed and do they align management staff.
3%0$ƫ0$!ƫ+ &! 0%2!/ĕ
The assessment provided information that
đƫ $ 0ƫ$ /ƫ !!*ƫ $%!2! ƫĨ.!/1(0/ƫ * ƫ'!5ƫ was shared with ITC/EFAL in March 2012. FLA
,!."+.) * !ƫ%* % 0+./ĩĕƫ+.ƫ!4 ),(!čƫ$! (0$ƫ made a series of recommendations for ITC,
and safety improvements, number of people EFAL and at the community level:
trained, social impact measurement.
đƫ %),.+2!ƫ ƫ%*0!.* (ƫ/5/0!)/ƫ0+ƫ
đƫ $ 0ƫ .!ƫ/0 '!$+( !./Ěƫ2%!3/ƫ+*ƫ0$!ƫ,+(% 5Čƫ include a better definition of roles and
%),(!)!*0 0%+*ƫ * ƫ 01 (ƫ+10 +)!ĕ responsibilities; an efficient internal
communication and decision-making
These communities provided a variety of process; a grievance mechanism for the
workplace arrangements, including self-help management staff (it is already working
groups, micro-entrepreneurs, tribal artisans, well at the worker and supervisors level);
and a slum-based community. FLA followed and a consultation mechanism to address
its usual methodology in conducting the the communication issues that can occur
assessment, which included interviews, visual between workers and management.
inspection, and documentation review. In
addition, the informal nature of the workplace
18
and low number of workers provided an
opportunity to use participatory rural
appraisal techniques and assessment through
participative workshops.
www.fairlabor.org 17FLA - ITC EThICAL FAshIon AFrICA ProjECT UPdATE
đƫ "+.) (%6!ƫ,.+)+0%+*ƫ,.+ ! 1.!/ƫ 0ƫ Based on the recommendations provided
the Hub level to make the process for by FLA, EFAL and ITC have developed an
becoming a supervisor more transparent internal action plan. Some of the salient
(an objective process does exist but is not features of the action plan are:
well communicated and understood by đƫ Ě/ƫ.+&! 0ƫ * #!.ƫ$ /ƫ !2!(+,! ƫ ƫ
workers). template that takes a practical approach
đƫ 1%( ƫ ƫ/0.+*#ƫ%*0!.* (ƫ)+*%0+.%*#ƫ,( *ƫ to the FLA Code of Conduct and is
taking into account the differences and specific to each group in EFAL’s supply
particularities of each group involved in chain. This template outlines each Code
production and facilitate the prioritization element for each artisan group, with
of standards for individual communities. relevant issues highlighted as they are
Due to the informal nature and the lack monitored. This document also serves to
of employer-employee relationships in record all steps the group has taken to
some of the communities, it is obviously address the FLA Code and also serves
more fruitful to define the priorities as a monitoring tool to outline any labor
(with respect to code of conduct related issues that may arise on visits
implementation) and the outcomes by ITC’s Project Manager or the Social
together with the community. Therefore, Worker and EFAL supervisors.
a typical internal monitoring visit rather đƫ $!ƫ2 .%+1/ƫ# ,/ƫ%*ƫ ƫ,+(% %!/ƫ$ 2!ƫ
than looking like an audit should take been addressed and there are ongoing
the form of participatory assessment participatory-approach workshops
with issue and solution prioritization and conducted on the ground in all areas of
agreement. management and labor-related issues.
đƫ "+ 1/ƫ+*ƫ , %05ƫ 1%( %*#ƫü./0ƫ"+.ƫ The participatory approach is much
most informal communities rather than appreciated by those stakeholders of
simply checking for compliance to labor EFAL and records of each focus session
standards. are kept onsite at the Hub. This way, the
internal systems and monitoring of the
đƫ ,.+2% !ƫ0. %*%*#ƫ0+ƫ%),.+2!ƫ-1 (%05ƫ+"ƫ activities of EFAL are known throughout
work and productivity in order to enable the workforce and there is increased
those communities to move up the value clarity regarding roles and responsibilities.
chain.
đƫ *ƫ%*0!.* (ƫ)+*%0+.%*#ƫ/5/0!)ƫ%/ƫ%*ƫ,( !ƫ
đƫ %),(!)!*0ƫ /% ƫ) * #!)!*0ƫ/5/0!)/ƫ%*ƫ for each department and group and the
the groups where there is an employer- document template is being continuously
employee relationship. For example, improved. Capacity building of the
teaching groups how to record, manage groups and training on specific areas is
and report on hours of work and wages. also being done in a way that it is relevant
đƫ +.# *%6!ƫ.!#1( .ƫ3+.'/$+,/ƫ 0ƫ +0$ƫ0$!ƫ to the groups as well as their levels of
Hub and the community level and closely understanding. Operations are guided by
following up on the action plans that are a Standard Operating Procedure (SOP)
collectively developed. manual, which is also adopted specifically
for each group.
www.fairlabor.org 18FLA - ITC EThICAL FAshIon AFrICA ProjECT UPdATE
RECOMMENDATIONS AND đƫ $!ƫ1/1 (ƫ ,,.+ $ƫ0+ƫ%* !,!* !*0ƫ
external assessments need to be adapted
GUIDELINES FOR FLA to take a participatory approach at the
INDEPENDENT EXTERNAL community level. Most of the information
ASSESSMENT should be derived from interviews and
workers’ testimony, as documentation
The activities carried out during these is often lacking or entirely missing at
first two years of the project have allowed the community level. The Hub, however
FLA to reflect on external assessments functions as a center for internal
for the informal sector and to fine-tune its management systems and can be subject
new sustainable compliance methodology to FLA’s usual monitoring methodology.
(SCI) and tools for artisan clusters. FLA is
developing a version of its Independent đƫ 0ƫ%/ƫ%),+.0 *0ƫ0+ƫ%*0!#. 0!ƫ!(!)!*0/ƫ+"ƫ
External Assessment methodology for the social impact assessment in the FLA’s
informal sector, based on field visits and independent external monitoring tools
other activities conducted during this project. and assessments. The internal impact
Required adaptations to independent external assessments conducted by EFAL should
assessments for the informal sector are listed form the baseline data and the FLA’s IEM
below. process checks for progress made on the
social indicators along with the presence
đƫ $!ƫ ƫ+.',( !ƫ+ !ƫ+"ƫ+* 1 0ƫ
of management systems and applicable
Benchmarks cannot be applied in their
labor standards.
entirety to the informal sector (especially
where there is no employer-employee đƫ %* ((5Čƫ0$!ƫ.!,+.0%*#ƫ+"ƫ0$!ƫ!*0%.!ƫ
relationship). The benchmarks need to process has to be balanced with the
be adapted to fit the particular context inclusion of activities conducted, status
of artisan clusters. The FLA COC and of the program, social impact on the
benchmarks are applicable to the Hub. communities, labor issues identify, lessons
learnt and next steps. The report should
đƫ %2!*ƫ0$!ƫ2 .%! ƫ* 01.!ƫ+"ƫ0$!ƫ +))1*%05ƫ
not be limited to listing noncompliances
groups present, the FLA Code and
against the FLA Workplace Code and
Benchmarks need to be interpreted in
Benchmarks.
a way that captures the essence of the
FLA Code and ensures protection for
workers and do not necessarily measure FLA’S ASSESSMENT APPROACH
the compliance status of the communities Two levels of assessment have to be
against the well-defined benchmarks. differentiated in the case of ITC-EFAL Ethical
đƫ 0ƫ) 5ƫ*+0ƫ (3 5/ƫ !ƫ,+//% (!ƫ0+ƫ) '!ƫ Fashion Initiative: 1) the Hub level; and 2) the
unannounced visits to the communities, community level.
especially in the case of tribal groups who
At the Hub level, the external assessment
move frequently and often squat in the
methodology can incorporate some key
wilderness without any address. In such
features of the new FLA Sustainable
cases, visits may have to be announced
Compliance (SCI) methodology , keeping
in advance and someone from EFAL must
accompany the verifiers.
www.fairlabor.org 19FLA - ITC EThICAL FAshIon AFrICA ProjECT UPdATE
in mind the specificities of informal supply Onsite Assessment
chains. The sustainable compliance approach
places emphasis on identifying root causes of Since most of the policies and procedures
noncompliance so that sustainable solutions should have been reviewed prior to
can be developed and implemented. External arriving at the workplace, the onsite work
assessments consist of a number of activities of the assessment team should focus
conducted prior to the workplace visit (pre- on investigating the high-risk areas and
onsite assessment); during the visit (onsite testing the implementation of policies and
assessment); and after the visit (post onsite procedures. The onsite assessment evaluates
assessment). different management functions through four
sources of information (management and
Pre-Onsite Assessment worker interviews, observation, and records
review). The management areas assessed
1. Desktop Research: The external
include:
assessment approach begins with desk
đƫ *0!.* (ƫ) * #!)!*0ƫ/5/0!)/Ď
research on the national and local labor
market, the informal sector and the đƫ +(% %!/ƫ * ƫ,.+ ! 1.!/ƫĨ0$+/!ƫ3$% $ƫ
company or supplier (if information is have not been received in advance);
available).
đƫ %/% %(%05ƫ+"ƫ0$+/!ƫ,+(% %!/ƫ * ƫ,.+ ! 1.!/Ď
2. Policies and Procedures Review: The đƫ +))1*% 0%+*ƫ0+ƫ0$!ƫ3+.'"+. !Ď
assessment is better prepared and
informed when the assessment team can đƫ . %*%*#Ď
review the main policies and procedures đƫ ),(!)!*0 0%+*Ď
prior to the onsite visit. This allows the
team to save time while on site and đƫ *0!.* (ƫ +*0.+(/Ď
focus on evaluating implementation đƫ !,+.0%*#ċ
and developing an understanding of the
processes. Post-Onsite Assessment
3. Task and Risk Mapping: In addition to After the onsite assessment, the assessment
the task and risk mapping studies that team will carry out root cause analysis
FLA may have conducted for a particular and reporting. The assessment findings
workplace, the assessment team should are not considered as isolated events but
list all the functions involved in the rather the results of systemic failure within
production process and assess the risks a management function. Findings are
involved in each activity. The risks should symptoms of underlying problems, which
then be prioritized and determine the can only be corrected, or their recurrence
assessment’s planning. prevented, if root causes are addressed.
The assessment team will compile the
4. Impact Assessment Review: The impact
findings in an assessment report that will
assessments conducted by EFAL can
be communicated to the assessed company
form a strong base to define the external
or organization for review and action plan
assessment methodology. Review of the
building.
SHOCK and SIA reports are a crucial part
of the pre-onsite assessment.
www.fairlabor.org 20FLA - ITC EThICAL FAshIon AFrICA ProjECT UPdATE
ASSESSMENT AT THE COMMUNITY LEVEL fully understood and accepted. For
example, the essence of each code of
The assessment process cannot be as formal
conduct element should be taken out
at the community/artisan clusters level as it
of the standard format and translated
is for the management and production center
in a way that means something for the
(Hub) level. Some recommendations and
community. The same approach should
guidelines have been drawn for the external
be applied to external assessment where
assessment of the communities or artisan
the assessment team will adapt the
clusters:
assessment focus and methodology to
đƫ ƫ %/0%* 0%+*ƫ/$+1( ƫ !ƫ) !ƫ !03!!*ƫ the specific context.
the community groups in which there
is an employer-employee relationship đƫ Ě/ƫ/+ % (ƫ.!/,+*/% %(%05ƫ,.+#. )ƫ"+.ƫ
and those without such a relationship the most informal communities will focus
(self-help groups and very informal on capacity building as opposed to labor
communities). In the Maasai community, standards monitoring. EFAL will regularly
for example, the female members do organize participative workshops to help
beading on products for EFAL. There them to understand the perceptions of
are no formal policies and procedures workers in each community and define
in place. Work is done outside their huts capacity building activities to address
in between doing household chores. workers’ needs. For this reason, FLA
Most of the people are illiterate with no external assessments in these regions will
documentation within the community. In focus more on measuring progress made
such groups, it is therefore recognized through capacity building activities than
that having policy documentation or traditional “compliance auditing.”
a written workplace code of conduct đƫ *ƫ! $ƫ +))1*%05Čƫ0$!ƫ //!//)!*0ƫ0! )ƫ
is irrelevant. For those very informal should at a minimum check that the
communities, assessments should instead fundamental labor standards – such as
focus on checking the effectiveness child labor, forced labor or serious health
of awareness-building programs. In and safety issues – are being upheld.
communities where there is an employer-
đƫ *ƫ %0%+*Čƫ'!5ƫ-1!/0%+*/ƫ * ƫ%* % 0+./ƫ
employer relationship, however,
from the Social Impact Assessments
assessments can focus on internal
should be identified and integrated
management systems (basic systems for
into the tools while conducting the
recording attendance, hours of work and
assessments at the community level.
wages), policies, procedures and their
implementation. đƫ .0% %, 0+.5ƫ ,,.+ $ƫ0+ƫ //!//)!*0ƫ3%((ƫ
form the basis of assessments carried out
đƫ *!ƫ/%6!ƫ +!/ƫ*+0ƫü0ƫ ((ċƫ+.',( !ƫ
at the community level.
rules and fair labor principles need to
be defined in a way that makes them
applicable to individual situations and
communicated to community members
(workers) through means that are
www.fairlabor.org 21FLA - ITC EThICAL FAshIon AFrICA ProjECT UPdATE
CONCLUSION
FLA’s collaboration with ITC and EFAL has
been a valuable learning experience and
has led to the development of an effective
methodology and tools for assessments in the
informal sector. As indicated by the Impact
Assessment results, the ITC Ethical Fashion
Initiative is already making improvements in
the lives of individual workers and is reducing
poverty in the community by providing
workers with opportunities to earn higher
incomes while imparting new competences
and skills, and building self-esteem. ITC and
EFAL are committed to making improvements
for workers and take ownership for reaching
a higher level of social responsibility by
implementing FLA labor standards with
rigor. The expansion of ITC’s Ethical Fashion
Initiative to other parts of the world is an
encouraging signal of its intention to continue
to collaborate with FLA and will allow for
even greater impact.
FLA’s experience during this special project
with ITC’s Ethical Fashion Initiative has led to
the creation of an umbrella project within FLA
called FAIR-ART (Artisans for Responsible
Trade)20. FAIR-ART is dedicated to tackling
labor issues in the informal sector, and the
tools developed during this special project
can be applied to other parts of the world
and utilized by other FLA affiliates who
conduct business in informal settings.
20 To know more about the FLA’s FAIR-ART project, please contact
FLA staff or visit www.fairlabor.org
www.fairlabor.org 22You can also read
