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ISSUE
                                                                                         #34
                                                                                  NOVEMBER 20, 2020

                                                                 A Publication of WWD

                             THE
    MONEY
    I$$UE                                                                                             Money images by Adobe

From forecasting the future of M&A activity to an A-Z breakdown of beauty’s key investors,
    WWD Beauty Inc takes an in-depth look at the financial picture heading into 2021.
PLUS: Why diversity matters in investing and how some key players celebrated their first big deal.
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THE BUZZ                                                                                                                                                         2

                                                                                                                                        NOVEMBER 20, 2020

                                   Beauty Bulletin
                                                                                  Carolina Herrera’s makeup line. The      Ipsy to Acquire Boxycharm
                                                                                  Charlotte Tilbury business also has      Ipsy bought a major slice of the
                                                                                  an expanding and successful skin-        beauty-box competition when it
                                                                                  care component, and was growing          agreed to acquire Boxycharm in
                                                                                  quickly — even during the COVID-19       October. The combined businesses
                                                                                  pandemic. Multiple strategic buyers,     are expected to form a powerhouse
                                                                                  including the Estée Lauder Cos., were    with more than $1 billion in combined
                                                                                  said to have looked at the business.     sales in 2020 and enough subscriber
                                                                                                                           data to very specifically tailor brand
                                                                                  Yatsen Files for IPO                     and product launches. Because of
                                                                                  In late October, Guangzhou Yatsen        the deal, Ipsy also restructured the
                                                                                  E-commerce Co., the parent               business, forming parent company
                                                                                  company of skin-care brands              Beauty For All Industries, which
                                                                                  Perfect Diary, Little Ondine and         also includes incubator Madeby
                                                                                  Abby’s Choice, filed for an initial      Collective, and will soon include
                                                                                  public offering in the U.S. The deal     a new brand called Refreshments
                                                                                  would allow it to raise up to $100       launching later this year with
                                                                Tk caption        million, and make it the first Chinese   “clean essentials,” like face wipes
                                                                                  beauty company ever listed on            and hand cream.
                                                                                  the New York Stock Exchange. The
                                                                                  business posted 3.03 billion renminbi    KKW Cosmetics Sells 20
                                                                                  in net income for 2019, about $457       Percent Stake to Coty
                                                                                  million. Yatsen plans to use the         Kim Kardashian West sold a minority
                                                                                  money for operations and potential       position in her cosmetics brand, KKW
                                                                                  investments or acquisitions.             Cosmetics, to Coty, following in the
                                                                                                                           footsteps of younger sister Kylie
                                                                                  L’Oréal Purchases Mugler &               Jenner, who had previously inked a

The 10 Most Major Beauty
                                                                                  Azzaro Licenses from Clarins             majority deal with Coty. For KKW, the
                                                                                  L’Oréal signed the deal to acquire       licensing deal puts Coty in charge of
                                                                                                                           developing skin care — the biggest

Deals of 2020
                                                                                  the Mugler and Azzaro fragrance
                                                                                  licenses from the Clarins Group in       focus right now — as well as personal
                                                                                  2019, but it closed earlier this year.   care, hair care and nail care. But for
¬ Beauty   M&A activity may have         The Hut Group Files for IPO              The brands generated about 340           Coty, the deal is pivotal to broader
slowed down slightly in 2020, but        The Hut Group, owner of Illamasqua,      million euros in sales in 2018. The      plans to accelerate growth in skin
there were still many major deals        Eyeko and e-commerce retailer            acquisition gives L’Oréal further        care, which it plans to do through
to be had. The year was ripe with        Lookfantastic, went public in            access to prestige designer              KKW and through Kylie Skin.
public offering activity from the        September with a $7 billion initial      fragrances, but also allowed Clarins
parent company of Perfect Diary,         public offering. The business has        to divest from fragrances entirely in    Nestlé Health Sciences
The Hut Group and VC-backed Hims,        been growing, and saw sales rise         order to focus on skin care. Mugler is   Acquires Majority of
but also saw a billion-dollar makeup     almost 25 percent in 2019, to 1.1        known for Angel, an iconic gourmand      Vital Proteins
acquisition with the Puig-Charlotte      billion pounds. “We anticipate           scent, and Alien, a bestseller, while    Nestlé Health Sciences agreed to
Tilbury deal, as well as other           substantial future growth and            Azzaro’s portfolio includes classics     buy a majority stake in Vital Proteins,
meaningful transactions. Here are        expansion across the beauty              like Azzaro Pour Homme and               an ingestible collagen business
some of the biggest beauty               industry, which will continue to         Chrome, and Wanted.                      that makes powders, beverages
M&A deals of 2020.                       benefit our brands and our web                                                    and foods. The deal underscores
                                         sites. We expect subscription beauty     Hims Goes Public via                     burgeoning interest in the wellness
KKR Buys Majority of Coty                boxes will continue to drive customer    SPAC Merger                              category, and in beauty-wellness
Professional                             acquisition and loyalty, while our       In early October, venture capital-       products. The deal is meant to help
Coty Inc. inked a deal with major        own prestige beauty brand portfolio      backed Hims said it inked a merger       provide Vital Proteins, which will
private equity firm KKR to sell a        will benefit from premiumization         agreement with special purpose           continue to operate as a stand-alone
majority stake in its professional       trends and rapid expansion through       acquisition vehicle Oaktree              business, with resources to further
division, which includes Wella, OPI      increased digital penetration and        Acquisition Corp. that values the        innovate and scale operations.
and Clairol. After some speculation      internalization,” said chief executive   company at $1.6 billion and would
that the deal had hit the rocks due      officer Matthew Moulding.                take it public. Hims, which also         L'Oréal Acquires Thayers
                                                                                                                                                                     Collage by Alex Bandoni; Kim Kardashian by Ahmed Klink

to the coronavirus, Coty and KKR                                                  operates a business segment              L'Oréal upped its exposure to the
signed a joint venture agreement         Puig Acquires Majority Stake in          aimed at women called Hers, runs         natural beauty space with the
that gives KKR control of the            Charlotte Tilbury                        a telehealth operation that sells        acquisition of Thayers Natural
division with 60 percent ownership.      Charlotte Tilbury became the latest      erectile dysfunction medication and      Remedies, a brand best known for its
The move is meant to simplify            founder to score a billion-dollar        birth control, as well as hair-loss      witch hazel and toners. The brand will
the business, and allow for Coty         beauty deal when Puig agreed to          prevention and skin-care products        live in L'Oréal's Consumer Products
leadership to fix the ailing consumer    buy a majority stake in her business     over the Internet. Founder Andrew        Division, which also contains L'Oréal
division (home of Covergirl) and         for what sources said was about 1.2      Dudum said the deal will allow the       Paris, Garnier and NYX. Alexis
accelerate the luxury segment,           billion pounds. BDT Capital Partners     business to work toward becoming         Perakis-Valat, president of that
especially via skin care. In November,   also bought a stake in the business.     “the front door to the health-care       segment, said the brand was part
Coty said that it expected the           For fragrance-focused Puig, the          system, serving as the first stop for    of L'Oréal's strategy to develop its
deal to close before the end of the      acquisition furthers exposure to the     people’s health and wellness needs       skin-care business globally, and that
calendar year, and that its remaining    color cosmetics category, which          around hundreds of conditions” and       Thayers complemented L'Oréal's
40 percent stake in the operation is     the company has played in with           that the brands would move into new      North American skin-care brand
valued at around $1.3 billion.           Christian Louboutin Beauty and           categories going forward.                portfolio. —Allison Collins
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P R E S E N T E D         B Y :

                                     BEAUTY BEGINS
                                      WITH TRUTH
                                 For three decades, Paula’s Choice has delivered research-based
                                           skin-care solutions that consumers embrace.

T
               he beauty industry can be                                                                                                              how well we’re meeting their needs, even as
               overwhelming with conflicting                                                                                                          they might change.
               research,           intimidating
               ingredients and thousands of                                                                                                           WWD Studios: What is the company’s
               products to choose from.                                                                                                               approach and philosophy in regard to
                   But, for customers of Paula’s                                                                                                      inclusivity and sharing knowledge?
Choice, the experience is distinctly different.                                                                                                       E.K.: The inclusiveness of our brand is
   Paula’s Choice has been dedicated to                                                                                                               something we have prioritized by cultivat-
sharing knowledge about skin and skin care                                                                                                            ing and supporting a diverse community
since it was founded by best-selling author                                                                                                           and making sure we offer an experience
and customer advocate Paula Begoun 25 years                                                                                                           where everyone feels part of it. This trans-
ago. The ethos of Paula’s Choice is one based                                                                                                         lates directly to the way we approach our
on truth, not hype, and one that is firmly                                                                                                            influencer and social initiatives. One of
anchored to science and research.                                                                                                                     our initiatives around this is On the Rise,
   By providing consumers with science-                                                                                                               which is a program that supports and am-
backed education and products, Paula’s                                                                                                                plifies the voices of Black content creators
Choice has grown a loyal following, and its                                                                                                           in the micro-influencer community.
safe, effective formulas that deliver results                                                                                                            We’ve always been about “accessibility,
continue to be a go-to for new and existing                                                                                                           not exclusivity.” One of the first impres-
customers.                                                                                                                                            sions users gain when they visit the Paula’s
   Here, Erika Kussmann, chief marketing                                                                                                              Choice web site is how much our online
officer of Paula’s Choice, discusses the brand’s                                                                                                      presence is really an open book to the
positioning, how the company leverages                                                                                                                science behind our beauty. The research
extensive R&D, the role of consumer insights                                                                                                          is laid out in full candor on our product
in product development and how skincare “is        and personalization literally has no boundar-   of just relying on slick marketing campaigns       detail pages. Under every product descrip-
not one-size-fits-all.”                            ies. It has allowed us to scale tremendously,   and focus groups, Paula’s Choice sources a         tion, users can find numerous customer
                                                   not only in the United States but also around   great deal of knowledge and product guid-          reviews in full.
WWD Studios: How have consumers                    the world – over 50 percent of our business     ance direct-to-consumer. We truly listen to
and their skincare needs changed in the            is in Europe and Asia.                          their concerns and use their feedback to for-      WWD Studios: What role does content
past decade?                                                                                       mulate future products. We look closely at         play in this approach?
Erika Kussmann: What is exciting now is            WWD Studios: What informs your                  the articles they are reading on our site, what    E.K.: As a direct-to-consumer brand,
the growing self-empowerment and interest          product development strategy?                   products they’re obsessing over, what they’re      Paula’s Choice launched online so that we
in skincare information across so many more        E.K.: In addition to being driven by the sci-   buying, re-buying and not buying.                  are not just a sales portal but also a central
customers than ever before. People want            ence and research, our direct relationships                                                        source of knowledge for everything we
facts when it comes to the health and beauty       with our customers mean they play a vital       WWD Studios: How do you leverage the               create and all of the independent research
of their skin. We see a growing base of            role in our product development. Instead        brand’s R&D efforts to deliver the right           that our teams perform. Our web site
customers who are savvy, science-obsessed,                                                         skincare solutions?                                lays the foundation for our research and
and intimately familiar with the ingredients                                                       E.K.: We follow the science — not what’s           expertise, and we have expanded our reach
that they use. In fact, people new to Paula’s                                                      popular. We use extensive research to sup-         with social channels, e-mail and events that
Choice make up over 70 percent of our                                                              port and verify our formulas. And we use           help us cultivate relationships and share
Expert Advice content traffic. Searches for                                                        hundreds of independent studies, safety data       our expertise in all those places where
ingredient information on our site are up                                                          and extensive consumer testing to develop          skincare and self-care are at the center of
more than two times year-over-year.                                                                and prove that our products are truly bene-        the conversation. Our research, products
   An example is our Boosters collection has                                                       ficial for skin. Every product is tested on real   and education are for everyone, and so is
really taken off: These are hero ingredients                                                       people by an independent laboratory for irri-      the content we create. We make sure that
supported by the research at proven effica-                                                        tancy and safety.                                  is reflected in our influencer partnerships
cious levels.                                                                                         Our roots as a brand are educating cus-         and the way in which we communicate
                                                                                                   tomers about what to use and not to use on         with our customers across multiple digital
WWD Studios: How does Paula’s Choice                                                               their skin, and this extends to our rigorous       channels.
meet these demands?                                                                                standards on allowable ingredients in our
E.K.: The cornerstone of our brand is to em-                                                       skincare. In this way, we’ve led the way for       WWD Studios: What is the brand’s
power people with the knowledge they need                                                          decades in developing clean formulations.          approach to influencers?
to feel confident in their skincare choices                                                                                                           E.K.: Having a deeply knowledgeable cus-
through our skincare and ingredient content                                                        WWD Studios: How has Paula’s                       tomer base creates a flywheel effect, in which
across our channels.                                                                               Choice adapted its strategy to meet                your most passionate customers share this
   And as a result, nearly 80 percent of                                                           evolving consumer demands due to the               knowledge with their friends, family mem-
Paula’s Choice customers report “Trust in
Paula’s Choice’s Science & Research” as the
                                                         This trust                                pandemic?
                                                                                                   E.K.: We know that we must remain nimble
                                                                                                                                                      bers and peers around the world.
                                                                                                                                                         Fans have found Paula’s Choice on social
number-one reason they choose our prod-                 is what has                                and responsive to our customers’ needs, es-        who are attracted by our extensive skincare
ucts. This trust is what has propelled us to
become one of the largest and fastest-grow-           propelled us to                              pecially during these uncertain, changing
                                                                                                   times. We apply an agile way of working
                                                                                                                                                      and ingredient content. Over time, this
                                                                                                                                                      community has become this strong legion
ing digital skincare brands in the world.
   At the core, we are a consumer-centric,
                                                      become one of                                across the entire organization, from market-
                                                                                                   ing to content to creative.
                                                                                                                                                      of advocates for our brand that is empow-
                                                                                                                                                      ered by knowledge.
personalized skincare brand. Our focus is on
helping people make individual choices for
                                                      the largest and                                 The key is keeping our team united and
                                                                                                   laser-focused on identifying those top-pri-
                                                                                                                                                         For us, our influencers are a treasured
                                                                                                                                                      part of the brand and that relationship
themselves with best-in-class formulations            fastest-growing                              ority projects that will ensure we are deliv-      and that trust must run deep. This is just
that deliver results regardless of their age,
gender, skin color or skin type.                      digital skincare                             ering maximum value to the customer. This
                                                                                                   approach enables us to respond quickly to
                                                                                                                                                      as much about the internal process — how
                                                                                                                                                      we prioritize this work in-house and how
   Wherever the customer is in their skin-
care journey, Paula’s Choice is there with the
                                                         brands in                                 changing market and customer needs.
                                                                                                      We’ve been direct to consumer from the
                                                                                                                                                      we maintain those relationships — as it
                                                                                                                                                      is about the flashy social media posts. It’s
content to help them with a more informed               the world.”                                start, and our AI learning and full-funnel dig-    about taking the time to find the people
solution. And on our site and digital chan-                                                        ital marketing strategies help us reach these      who are true fans, who are true advocates,
nels, we have the capabilities to personalize               Erika Kussmann                         customers at all of the relevant digital touch-    and who have an intense focus on the
based on a customer’s needs for the most rel-                Paula’s Choice                        points where they are. With our direct rela-       knowledge and the science, and making
evant experience.                                                                                  tionships, and our data capabilities, we can       sure it is a two-way channel, where we are
   This mission of consumer empowerment                                                            measure how customers are responding and           listening deeply to their ideas and needs.
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NEWS FEED                                                                                                                                                                 4

                                                                                                                                               NOVEMBER 20, 2020

Beauty Retailers Showcase
                                                                                                                                  and so we’re seeing, certainly like
                                                                                                                                  everyone else, challenges on the
                                                                                                                                  color cosmetics business. People are

Sustainability, Diversity
                                                                                                                                  much more focused on health care,
                                                                                                                                  and so we’re seeing strong growth
                                                                                                                                  in health and healthy skin. And
                                                                                                                                  then we have what’s happening in
“Wellness has been incorporated into everything,” says The Detox Market’s                                                         the social environment, with much
director of brand partnerships, Elena Severin. BY RYMA CHIKHOUNE                                                                  more of a focus on sustainability and
                                                                                                                                  multicultural [initiatives].”
                                                                                         According to the Global Wellness            Walmart will focus on brands
                                                                                      Summit, along with mental wellness,         for and created by people of color,
                                                                                      reproductive health is a rising trend       Balbale said, while working to bring
                                                                                      in the category this year.                  transparency into stores: “How do
                                                                                         “Our customers have been asking          we make it simple for people to
                                                                                      for them,” said Michelle Connelly,          understand the ingredients and make
                                                                                      vice president of merchandising and         sense of what is oftentimes a long
                                                                                      planning at Credo Clean Beauty, of          ingredient list on the back of the
                                                                                      pregnancy products. “One of our             bottle? We’re in the process now of
                                                                                      values is to be welcoming to all…for        trying to understand how we simplify
                                                                                      clean beauty to be approachable, to         the consumer’s ability to distill what
                                                                                      bring that message that clean beauty        she is reading in a way that makes
                                                                                      is for everyone.”                           sense and helps catalogue what she’s
                                                                                         This year’s Black Lives Matter           reading into buckets that she cares
                                                                                      movement has also had influence on          about, whether it be impact on her
                                                                                      the industry, as retailers pledge to        own health and body, impact on the
                                                                                      make inclusivity and diversity part of      environment.”
                                                                                      their ethos.                                   In color cosmetics, retailers are either
                                                                                         “It’s definitely a focus for us to       putting attention on vegan products or
                                                                                      put a concentrated effort behind            those backed by known personalities.
                                                                           Sephora
                                                                                      diversity, not just in our brand            Walmart offers The Lip Bar, a vegan,
                                                                                      founders but also in all of our             cruelty-free line, as well as Luv Betsey,
WELLNESS IS TOP-OF-MIND                     packaged blend of superfoods in           marketing,” continued Connelly.             a line by Betsey Johnson.
for consumers during the ongoing            capsule form created by Asa Siegel.          Along with skin care, hair is a             Celebrity brands are indeed
coronavirus pandemic, and now, it's           “It’s all about protecting the          focus for retailers, too.                   everywhere: Ulta Beauty will soon
top-of-mind for retailers, too.             microbiome in the skin and                   Credo recently added Nuele to its        exclusively launch Keys Soulcare next
  The sector has been growing, last         addressing the stress levels in the       hair category, a brand founded by           month, a beauty brand by Alicia Keys
valued at $4.5 trillion in 2018 by the      skin,” said Severin of Biophile, a        two women of color, Anne Cheatham           in collaboration with E.l.f. Cosmetics;
Global Wellness Institute. According        partly Black-owned brand.                 and Dr. Christine Martey-Ochola.            CVS now sells Flower Beauty by Drew
to the nonprofit organization —               While turning to self-care amid            “It’s a product that works for every     Barrymore, and Sephora recently and
which works to “empower” wellness           rising health and environmental           hair type,” said Connelly. “It’s done       exclusively introduced Rare Beauty by
through education and research on           concerns, beauty shoppers are             very well for us so far.”                   Selena Gomez, One/Size by influencer
preventative health — the category          specifically seeking out products that       At Violet Grey, Black-owned              Patrick Starrr and Makeup by Mario,
grew nearly twice as fast as global         are nontoxic, cruelty-free and have       hair company Sunday II Sunday —             founded by Mario Dedivanovic (Kim
economic growth between 2015                an element of sustainability. Retailers   founded by Keenan Beasley — was             Kardashian's famed makeup artist).
and 2017, based on data from the            — from niche businesses to mass           introduced last month.                         Each brand is inclusive, not just in
International Monetary Fund. And            market chains — have taken notice.           “[Sunday II Sunday's] products           shading but in price range, too, said
the “personal care, beauty and                “Nine out of 10 beauty consumers        are all focused on scalp care,” said        Alison Hahn, senior vice president of
antiaging” division is the largest,         are interested in buying clean over the   Maureen Choi, Violet Grey’s executive       merchandising in color at Sephora.
worth nearly $1.1 billion.                  next 12 months,” said Monica Arnaudo,     director of content and curation.           “Product differentiation is one of
  “Wellness has been incorporated           chief merchandising officer at Ulta       Violet Grey, a highly curated luxury        Sephora's main pillars.…There's a
into everything,” said The Detox            Beauty, according to in-house research.   beauty retailer, has committed 15           lot of newness to come in 2021 with
Market’s director of brand                  “And 80 percent of consumers expect       percent of its shelf space to Black-        these brands.”
partnerships, Elena Severin.                businesses to have a positive impact on   owned brands, she added.                       In skin care, Sephora launched a
  The spotlight on wellness has been        society and the environment.”                For Walmart, while concentrating         line by celebrity aesthetician Shani
accentuated this year, due to the             The latest brands to enter Ulta         on indie and affordable beauty,             Darden, and in hair, the latest
impact of the coronavirus pandemic,         Beauty this fall are nontoxic, vegan      most recent additions include hair          offering is Black-owned Bread Beauty
she continued. Consumers are                and cruelty-free: Pirette, a beach-       accessories and tools. One brand            by Maeva Heim (Sephora, too, has
looking to reduce tension and anxiety.      inspired fragrance; a hair-care and       is a partnership with Conair and            made the 15 percent pledge).
  “We’ve seen internal wellness             body-care line by Griffin Coon,           influencer Sazan Hendrix, while the            Looking into next year, a focus
equaling less stress on the skin and        and Melanin Haircare, a Black-            other is an exclusive launch with           on health and supplying nontoxic
outward health as well, but this year       owned hair company cofounded              hairstylist Kim Kimble, known for           goods is a shared priority for retailers,
really took it to a new level,” said        by YouTuber Whitney White. And            working with Beyoncé.                       including CVS. The mass retailer will
Severin. “When you look at [2020            in partnership with clean retailer           “Traditionally in moments of             soon introduce a tool into stores, the
launches] with your hindsight glasses       Credo, Ulta Beauty launched a             economic uncertainty, we see                SkinSafe app developed by Mayo Clinic,
on, you can see they all have a             curated selection of brands that are      consumers reverting back to more            that will allow consumers to search and
common thread and that’s wellness.”         typically found there.                    established brands. They try to find        better understand product ingredients.
  The Detox Market, which                     Inside Credo's own stores, the focus    products that have known value for          Along with showcasing Flower Beauty,
specializes in clean beauty, recently       has been on expanding its “mom and        them…and we see a rise in beauty,”          CVS has expanded Pop-arazzi, a vegan,
added Biophile and Stamba to its            baby” category, launched this year        said Musab Balbale, vice president          nail polish and cosmetics line that
roster. The first is a skin-care brand by   to offer nontoxic and sustainably         and general manager for Walmart             meets CVS' standards of clean.
Alison Cutlan and Grace Fooden that         sourced goods for infants and mothers     U.S. Beauty. “We talk about the                “We are making sure that we are
uses probiotic bacteria, botanicals and     to be. The newest brands are Nessa        lipstick effect in beauty. All of that is   mindful of ingredients,” said Andrea
fungi, while the latter is a certified      and Hatch Mama, which provide skin-       now being influenced by COVID-19.           Harrison, senior director of DMM at
organic, sustainably sourced and            care products for pregnancy.              Consumers aren’t going out as much,         CVS Health. “Our customers are asking.”
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C O LO R C O S M E T I C S • S K I N CA R E • H A I R CA R E

  T H E T E A M B E H I N D YO U R T E A M S
               S I N C E 1 975.
P R O U D LY M A D E I N N E W YO R K C I T Y.
                      manaproducts.com
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WEEKLY ROUNDUP                                                                                                                                                                 6

                                                                                                                                                  NOVEMBER 20, 2020

                                 The Latest From WWD               Fashion.Finance.Media.Retail.

                                          Blacktag founders Ousman Sahko
                                                       and Akin Adebowale                                  Shopify Partners With AliPay
                                                                                                           ¬ Retail  platform Shopify           Alibaba’s most recent
                                                                                                           and digital wallet provider       Singles' Day shopping
                                                                                                           Alipay have joined in a            event netted massive
                                                                                                           partnership revealed              online sales, garnering
                                                                                                           Tuesday that allows the           nearly $74.1 billion in gross
                                                                                                           former’s U.S. merchants           merchandise volume
                                                                                                           to accept payments from           during the multiday
                                                                                                           customers based in China          event and channeling
                                                                                                           and other Asian markets.          $449 million in sales to
                                                                                                              With the Alipay payment        Italian brands.
                                                                                                           gateway, Shopify merchants           Alipay serves more than
                                                                                                           are positioned to lean into       one billion annual active
                                                                               ONLINE                      major shopping holidays
                                                                                                           such as the Lunar New Year
                                                                                                                                             users in China, and its
                                                                                                                                             roadmap includes extending
                                                                               LUXURY                      in February and the next 11.11    that reach to hundreds of
                                                                               MARKET                      Global Festival, aka Singles'     millions more across Asia.
                                                                             FACES SLOW                    Day, in November 2021.            — Adriana Lee

                                                                              RECOVERY                                                 Shopify and Alipay have partnered on a new
                                                                                                                                      payments gateway for U.S.-based merchants
                                                                                                                                                         serving Asian consumers.
                                                                             ¬ ForwardPMX’s       latest
Blacktag Raises $3.75M in                                                      report analyzes the
                                                                                current and future
Seed Funding                                                                     state of the global
¬ Blacktag,   a Black-owned             and consumed. The platform            online luxury sector,
and operated global media               leverages components from               which is poised to
and entertainment platform,             social media platforms like           see a decline in sales
revealed a $3.75 million seed           user-generated content and                that could reach
round. Connect Ventures, a              profiles for creators including          45 percent and is
new investment partnership              artists, influencers, directors,       forecast to not fully
between Creative Artists                musicians, actors, chefs and            recover until 2023.

                                                                                                           Beiersdorf Launches
Agency and New Enterprise               more to connect directly                       The report
Associates, led the round.              with brands and audiences
                                                                              describes the luxury
Blacktag announced
partnerships with actress
                                        that can subscribe to these
                                        creatives’ content.
                                                                              market as a resilient
                                                                             industry, with brands
                                                                                                           Skin Care in South Korea
Issa Rae and entertainer                “Black economic power                                              ¬ Beiersdorf    AG has just          The range includes the
Common, who will release                should equate Black                  forging ahead despite
                                                                                headwinds. There           launched Chaul, its first         Early Ritual Water Essence,
original content.                       creatives’ power,” said Akin                                       brand developed specifically      Early Ritual Ampoule and
  Blacktag’s objective is to            Adebowale and Ousman                     are opportunities
                                                                                                           for the Asian market.             Early Ritual Cream, each
modernize how content by                Sahko, cofounders of                       in China, where
                                                                                                              The three-unit, premium        billed to be antiaging and
Black creatives is created              Blacktag. — Obi Anyanwu               consumers there are                                            giving an even complexion.
                                                                                                           face-care line has products
                                                                             expected to generate          formulated with fermented         Beiersdorf said on
                                                                                  half of all luxury
Target Tracks Growth
                                                                                                           tea. It was introduced            Wednesday if the brand
                                                                                  goods purchases          in South Korea a few              is successful in South

Online and In-store
                                                                                in the world in the        weeks ago. The launch             Korea, it will be launched
                                                                                    next five years.       was spearheaded by the            incrementally in Asia, with a
                                        line revenues, and logging                    The report           Nivea Accelerator (or NX          focus on China, the largest
                                        more than $1 billion in profits.       highlighted brands          Accelerator), Beiersdorf’s        country market in the region.
                                                                                                                                                                                    Photograph by aanbetta - stock.adobe.com; Target by AP Images

                                        Although digital comparable                  with high site        Seoul-based innovation hub.       — Jennifer Weil
                                        sales grew 155 percent during             traffic and social
                                        the quarter, year-over-year,          media engagement.
                                        comparable traffic grew about           ForwardPMX said
                                        4.5 percent, with more than 95           in the U.S., overall
                                        percent of the company’s third-             search volume
                                        quarter sales fulfilled by stores.       for luxury brands
        Target is investing in safety      “Our strong results in 2020
                                                                              increased 9 percent
precautions during the pandemic to      reflect the benefits of our
entice consumers to shop in stores.                                             year-over-year, but
                                        multiyear effort to build a
                                        durable and flexible model,”
                                                                                  the growth came
¬  A week after announcing
                                        said Brian Cornell, chief                  “at a time when
its partnership with Ulta
Beauty, Target Corp.                    executive officer.                      site traffic to those
announced growth in sales                  For the three-month period                same brands
across channels.                        ending Oct. 31, revenues grew            dipped 2 percent
   Target revealed quarterly            21.3 percent to $22.6 billion.             year-over-year.”
results, improving on top-              — Kellie Ell                          —— Arthur Zaczkiewicz                                                       Chaul Mindful Skincare
MONEY I$$UE THE - Silas Capital
P R E S E N T E D          B Y :

                                          POWERED BY
                                          INNOVATION
 For prestige beauty innovator and contract manufacturer, MANA Products, the future is now.

T
                   wenty-twenty has been           parency and sustainability into their ingredi-
                   a milestone year for            ent statements and making them available to                                                                                   MANA Products’
                   renowned prestige beauty        customers online and with QR codes,” Jaegly                                                                               manufacturing facility.
                   innovator and contract          said, adding that the industry as a whole is
                   manufacturer,       MANA        also “moving toward alternative sustainable
                   Products. The New York-         packaging materials, reduction in excess
                   based company marks 45          packaging, and more eco-friendly ingredient
years in business and was also recently            sourcing and manufacturing processes.”
acquired by Traub Capital. Under Traub,                For MANA, deploying sustainable prac-
MANA can tap into the firm’s operational,          tices is a top priority.
strategic and financial expertise. In return,          The company, for example, is leading
Traub gets an industry-leading innovator with      on the use of cold process and waterless
strong R&D capabilities.                           technology in its formulation and prod-
   For MANA Products’ Chief Executive              uct development, and it is committed
Officer, Robert Jaegly, the acquisition is a       to supply chain and product ingredient
perfect fit that can help the company further      transparency. Jaegly says MANA will be
evolve and innovate; aligning it with the          100% Roundtable of Sustainable Palm Oil
original vision of founder Nikos Mouyiaris,        (RSPO) certified next year.
but for a new era in the beauty industry.              Jaegly says the demand for more sustain-
   Jaegly, who has decades of global business      able products has gained momentum amid
experience under his belt, has positioned          the COVID-19 global pandemic. Consumers
MANA as a color cosmetics and skincare             are increasingly concerned with not only
products innovator that delivers sustainable       what goes inside their bodies, but what also
and planet-friendly products that don’t            goes on their bodies, and their skin — which
skimp on performance.                              is shaping how products are made and sold.
   The company’s success is largely due to
leveraging consumer insights while forging         It’s A Small World
deep collaborations with its brand partners        The pandemic has also made the world a
— which includes conglomerate beauty               smaller place, and Jaegly sees this as an op-
companies as well as smaller DTC and               portunity for brands. Many heritage brands
emerging brands. To help develop those             that were once only available in their local
partnerships, Jaegly and his team have             markets/countries, are now available to a
launched the MANA Brand Accelerator                global consumer base through online shop-
program, which is specifically designed for        ping and social platforms,” he said. “We
emerging brands. Jaegly has also embedded          anticipate that this trend will continue to
into the company’s manufacturing ethos             grow and expand.” But to succeed, the CEO
“MANA Clean,” which the CEO describes as           stresses the importance of knowing the local
the “best of the best” in formulation.             and regional market, and the demographics
                                                   driving purchase decisions.
Let’s Be Clear                                        And well before the pandemic outbreak,          proven, proprietary cosmetic and skincare          to goal setting and measures.”
Bringing to market truly sustainable prod-         Jaegly said consumer preferences were              products, as well as lower minimum order               Jaegly said the company works hard to
ucts is no small task and requires adhering        already shifting, which accelerated after          quantities, enhanced customization options         “develop the understanding of how each
to stringent guidelines and certifications. It’s   COVID. “People are now relying on social           and expedited speed to market.”                    individual contributes to the goals and why
been a challenge for businesses across the         platforms for product demonstrations and                The MANA Brand Accelerator program            they are important. We have provided the
beauty sector. But for the consumer, they          recommendations more than ever,” he says.          also allows existing beauty brands “unprec-        tracking tools to manage the operation at the
simply demand that brands offer greener            “They’re not going into stores, and they’re        edented access to MANA’s extensive library         operator level in real-time.”
and cleaner products, which requires trans-        not trying on makeup. Stores are moving to-        of innovative formulas and finishes, allowing         In practice, this means manufacturing
parency and authenticity.                          wards more of a localized distribution center      them to select and procure items for promo-        lines that can swiftly change over from
   “Beauty brands are incorporating trans-         model versus a traditional retail experience.”     tions and seasonal introductions, as well as       one product to another. Jaegly notes that
                                                   The CEO also says shoppers right now are           their base businesses,” the CEO added.             changeovers which previously took hours,
                                                   attempting to move from sheltering in place            And it is a library that continues to grow     now take minutes.
                                                   to “sheltering in public,” which is amplifying     as trends evolve.
                                                   concerns for safety and health.                        The current trends informing MANA’s            What’s Next?
                                                      For the beauty industry, Jaegly says compa-     product development and innovation include         Jaegly expects further consolidation in the
                                                   nies need to do “our part to help alleviate this   skin health and its microbiome, of “skin flora”    beauty industry, which he said is a “great
                                                   anxiety by creating and marketing product          which requires probiotic products as well as       way to leverage capital, location, technology,
                                                   forms and packages that help protect against       proper hydration. And, aside from the afore-       along with creating scalable platforms.”
                                                   the virus – single-use products, touchless         mentioned waterless formulations and sus-             Vertical integration will also come into
                                                   products, stick products … as well as formu-       tainably sourced products, MANA is devel-          play “as it creates the ability to have a com-
                                                   lations with hyper hygienic and skin barrier       oping high-performance, clean-beauty items         plete supply chain in one place,” the CEO
                                                   protective properties, and other traits.”          that Jaegly describes as “cleanical products.”     said, adding that this “simplifies everything
                                                                                                          “I’m looking forward to seeing more of         for the customer, allowing them to do
                                                   Brand Acceleration                                 the ‘cleanical’ trend – which are high-perfor-     what they do best — which is market their
                                                   Another notable pandemic-related trend             mance products formulated with clean ingre-        brands.” Jaegly added that MANA has re-
                                                   that is reshaping the industry is the explosive    dients,” Jaegly said. “It’s a win-win for every-   cently partnered with Meiyume and RPG to
      To hear Robert                               growth of online shopping and the emer-            body. Internally, we call it ‘MANA Clean,” and     create vertical integration on a global scale.
                                                   gence of DTC brands. Stuck at home and             it is our benchmark for the best of the best.”        When asked about what excites him when
       Jaegly discuss                              online, shoppers are trying new brands and                                                            he considers the future of the beauty indus-
                                                                                                      Best In Class Manufacturing
     innovation in the                             types of products, which has put a spotlight
                                                   on emerging beauty brands. In response,            MANA also differentiates itself in the market
                                                                                                                                                         try, Jaegly is quick to respond. “Everything.
                                                                                                                                                         Absolutely everything,” he said.
      prestige beauty                              Jaegly and his team have created the MANA          by performing “faster, better and simpler”            “As we adjust to this new normal — new
                                                   Brand Accelerator program, which makes it          than the competition, Jaegly said. “The in-        opportunities are emerging to help custom-
          market.                                  easier for brands to work with MANA.               dustry demands shorter lead-times, smaller         ers look and feel beautiful and safe,” Jaegly
                                                      “The Brand Accelerator program creates          runs and lower inventory,” the CEO ex-             said. “New categories, new technologies,
                                                   a seamless pathway for emerging and indie          plained. “For us, it begins with the engage-       new ingredients. It’s all good stuff. The
           CLICK H E RE                            beauty brands that will allow them to part-        ment process to upskill our operations team        beauty industry is seizing this opportunity to
                                                   ner with MANA from start-up to stardom,”           every year spending over 20 hours of annual        continue what we’ve been doing, but to do it
                                                   Jaegly said. “The program features our             training in everything from functional skills      better — and we’re excited.”
MONEY I$$UE THE - Silas Capital
DEEP DIVE                                                                                                                                        8

                                                                                                                      NOVEMBER 20, 2020

                                                                                                                               Skin-care brands are
                                                                                                                                     in hot demand.

Beauty M&A Finds
                                                              THINGS MAY HAVE gotten weird               taking more time, apart from certain
                                                              in the beauty dealscape over the past      exceptions. Everyone’s looking for
                                                              few months as financial types found        smaller companies because there

The White Space
                                                              themselves Zooming through due             is still a scarcity of good assets, so
                                                              diligence, but the ongoing pandemic        everybody’s trying to get into future
                                                              is not expected to put a stop to           champions as soon as they can.”
                                                              beauty M&A going forward.                     He added the rush is also on
Those in the know are predicting a busy beauty M&A climate.      Shifts in consumer trends toward        since beauty companies command
BY ALLISON COLLINS AND JENNIFER WEIL                          online shopping, skin care, hair care      such great margins and cash flow,
WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM SAMANTHA CONTI AND SANDRA SALIBIAN
                                                              and self care will have major impacts      therefore often they don’t need a
                                                              on what buyers and investors are           second round of financing.
                                                              looking for going forward, experts said.      There are a handful of men’s
                                                                 “Any time there’s change in the         brands in the market, as well as
                                                              market and change in consumer              businesses coming back up for sale
                                                              behavior, it drives M&A. These             after pressing pause on processes due
                                                              are not temporary shifts, they are         to the coronavirus. Bankers say they
                                                              permanent shifts,” said Vennette Ho,       are busy having conversations with
                                                              managing director at Financo.              founders looking to take risk off the
                                                                 Bankers are busy, insiders said,        table, and that there is still selective
                                                              and are expecting a variety of             deal appetite from strategic buyers.
                                                              companies to hit the market in the            “The markets have come back — no
                                                              coming months. Low interest rates          one is afraid to go out in the market,
                                                              are expected to contribute to deal         there’s no need to put a process on
                                                              volume, sources said.                      hold,” said Arash Farin, managing
                                                                                                                                                      Photograph by Adobe

                                                                 “There are a lot of transactions on     director at the Sage Group LLC.
                                                              the market. I don’t see any change            But things are different than before,
                                                              on that, and there are probably            and investors looking at growing
                                                              even more volumes,” said Laurent           companies continue to inquire about
                                                              Droin, managing director of Eurazeo        “the COVID-19 bump” — the spike in
                                                              Brands in Paris. “Transactions are         sales, especially online, that many „
MONEY I$$UE THE - Silas Capital
DEEP DIVE                                                                                                                                                                 9

                                                                                                                                             NOVEMBER 20, 2020

   Key
   Takeaways
   1. M&A activity is expected
   to pick up heading into 2021, as
   big beauty looks for brands that
   reflect many of the permanent
   consumer changes wrought by
   the events of 2020.

   2. Key areas of interest
   include skin- and hair-care
   brands, wellness-oriented
   companies, technology plays,
   men's and even manufacturing.

   3. China is increasingly
   important — from both the buy
   and sell perspective.

companies saw this year — sources
said.
   Beauty brands looking to do
deals should be prepared to walk
investors through COVID-19-era                                                                                                                         Direct-to-consumer
                                                                                                                                                       brands with proven
numbers, whether they went up or
                                                                                                                                                        digital prowess are
down, experts agreed. Brands that                                                                                                                     on every buyer’s list.
saw a big uptick because of exposure
to online or categories that saw              Valuations can be sky high in           around what consumers are looking         of companies that were doing great
heightened consumer interest during        beauty, but those types of dreamy          for.” McPhilliamy ticked off DIY          going into COVID-19 because they
the pandemic will need to explain          multiples are only available to            beauty, self care, personal health and    had characteristics that were going
the sustainability of those figures.       companies that meet a certain set          hygiene as key categories. “Not to        to make them successful outside
Similarly, brands who saw slumps due       of standards, and those standards          mention brands really took a stand        of retailers…great digital content,
to overexposure to brick-and-mortar        are changing. Investors and buyers         and have been showing they care and       great community, almost a lifestyle
retail or diminishing categories, like     want companies with a strong digital       they're taking action to address some     following,” said Shaun Westfall,
makeup, would need to show how             presence — but today, when they say        of the social issues facing the nation.   managing director at Jefferies.
they’re charting a path to recovery.       that, they mean strong e-commerce          That matters to consumers today              Technology is another big area
   “People want to have these              sales versus a few years ago, when         more than ever,” she added.               of focus. “Communities and block
COVID-19 conversations in the              they meant a strong social media             Diversity is expected to become         chains are very important today,” said
rearview mirror and say, ‘This is our      operation. Skin, hair and wellness are     more important to prospective             Karine Ohana, a co-managing partner
new normal, this is not a two month        all expected to remain hot categories,     investors, some sources said.             at Ohana & Co., referring to how
bump.’ What is sustainable is what         following consumer shopping habits.                                                  the technology can help augment
the private equity [firms] want to         Men’s may finally become a thing,                                                    companies' digital operations,
know,” said Ilya Seglin, managing          based on the volume of men’s brands        “Any time there’s                         traceability and sustainability
director at Threadstone Advisors.          in the market. And manufacturing                                                     functions in today’s world where
   COVID-19’s effect on beauty sales       M&A, a busy sector for private equity        change in the                           consumer trust is key. She added
is one of the things that earlier this     firms not interesting in taking single-    market and change                         investors are seeking companies with
year, caused many companies to             brand risk, is expected to continue.                                                 market-changing business models.
pause their deal processes.                   “We find it interesting that some          in consumer                               “I wouldn’t be surprised to see
   But some of those companies have
come back out into the market, and
                                           of the less sexy areas of home and
                                           personal care, like soap, personal
                                                                                      behavior, it drives                       companies step up investments
                                                                                                                                in areas like L’Oréal has done
others are expected to re-initiate         cleansing, household products have          M&A. These are                           with ModiFace,” said Eva Quiroga,
M&A conversations in 2021.
   “There have definitely been a
                                           had record sales. Consumers are really
                                           focused on their personal health and
                                                                                        not temporary                           managing director at Bank of America,
                                                                                                                                referring to the tech company
number of transactions that would          hygiene,” added Kelly McPhilliamy,          shifts, they are                         focused on artificial intelligence
have potentially gone to market in
2020 and many of them, regardless
                                           managing director at Harris Williams.
                                              “We’re going to continue seeing
                                                                                      permanent shifts.” ­                      and augmented reality. “Bringing
                                                                                                                                technology in-house is probably easier
of whether they’re doing extremely         interest for skin care as a strong                —vennette ho , financo             with an acquisition than building it
well, just doing OK, or not well, got to   category, in particular in regards                                                   yourself. The beauty of the ModiFace
the point where they wanted to have        to natural skin care as well as                                                      relationship is that it’s so ingrained in
2020 under their belt. Especially with     dermocosmetics in both prestige in            “Diversity both in terms of your       the L’Oréal model at this point.”
the impact of COVID-19, people didn’t      mass channels. We’re going to see          employee base as well as your                Those are the types of companies that
want to have the questions around,         continued interest in hair care as the     customer demographic has become           people are interested in, sources noted.
is this a COVID-19 bump or slump?”         category continues to outperform           increasingly important. Being able           Strategic buyers, struggling with
said Janki Gandhi, managing director       the other categories,” said Luc-Henry      to show that your brand is truly          exposure to brick-and-mortar sales
at Goldman Sachs.                          Rousselle, managing director at            inclusive and you do address a range      at a time of dwindling in-real-life
   While company sales might have seen     William Hood & Co.                         of demographics — partners are            shopping, will need to look to buy
                                                                                                                                                                               Photograph by Adobe

fluctuations because of the pandemic,         “This year, it's all about how brands   going to be focused on that, especially   brands that are growing, and are
valuations for beauty companies have       pivoted,” McPhilliamy said. “Brands        with the current times,” Gandhi said.     likely to consider divesting brands
not, sources said. “It’s like COVID-19     really found their footing by focusing        In many cases, the companies that      that are not. Shiseido, Unilever
never happened; valuations are back up     on digital marketing and direct-to-        are desirable today are the same          and Henkel, have publicly talked
for anybody who did well throughout        consumer, third party and e-comm…          firms that attracted interest prior       of divestitures. Reckitt Benckiser is
COVID-19,” Seglin said.                    as well as emphasizing solutions           to the crisis. “There’s a whole cast      reported to be selling a portfolio „
MONEY I$$UE THE - Silas Capital
DEEP DIVE                                                                                                                                                                     10

                                                                                                                                                    NOVEMBER 20, 2020

of personal-care brands including           Sephora Southeast Asia — everybody’s
Clearasil, Veet, Scholl and E45 skin        looking for brands that have some
cream, which could command up               sort of Asian presence,” Westfall said.
                                                                                                               BRANDS WITH BUZZ
                                                                                            Here, the companies that analysts expect to see considering
to 1 billion pounds, according to              But it’s not all interest from the sell
                                                                                                         M&A options in the year ahead.
Reuters. Revlon has been considering        side. Increasingly, buyers are coming
divestitures for more than a year. And      from Asia as well. “We also see an
industry sources said that the Estée        increase in interest and action from
Lauder Cos. Inc. may be considering         Chinese and Asia buyers looking to
divestitures in makeup and hair.            accelerate Western brands that have
  Growth is important, but so is            demonstrated success in the region,
profitability, sources said — especially    either through Tmall or Sephora China.
when it comes to direct-to-consumer         People have talked about interest from
businesses.                                 that community for a long time, but
  “In dtc, the old days of trading          now we're starting to see that translate
off rapid growth with no profits is         into activity,” McPhilliamy said.
                                                                                           from left:Erno Laszlo's Firmarine Lift Face Powder Mask; Shampoo and conditioner
a nonstarter,” said Andrew Shore,              Some executives expect further
                                                                                                   bottles from Function of Beauty;Madison Reed Radiant Cream Color;
managing director at Moelis.                consolidation among travel-retail                          Tata Harper's Clarifying Mask; Il Makiage’s foundation range.
  “Strategics and private equity            operators, as their businesses have
groups are looking for an earlier           practically ground to a halt for months      Aroma-Zone, the French,                     Manzanita bought Kevyn
proof point that the business might         on end while debt has accumulated.           natural DIY cosmetics brand,                Aucoin, estimated to have sales
not be scaled into full profitability but      The other area of increased buyers        is preparing to go on the block,            between 20 million and 40
can show some level of profit at the        is special purpose acquisition vehicles,     according to industry sources.              million pounds, two years later.
                                                                                         Its first store opened in Paris               Function of Beauty is said to
bottom line,” said Intrepid managing        which have permeated the public
                                                                                         in 2014, and was followed by                be in the discussion process,
director Steve Davis.                       markets over the past year. Hims
                                                                                         six others in France, while                 but close to inking a deal. The
  Valuations in the sector are slowly       recently unveiled that it would go
                                                                                         the brand’s online sales have               business started by making
shifting from revenue-based multiples       public via a SPAC acquisition at a $1.6                                                  customized hair products, and
                                                                                         boomed. Aroma-Zone is
to profitability-based multiples,           billion valuation, and industry sources      reportedly expecting about 100              has since branched into other
according to Michael Toure, founder         noted that could be the case for other       million euros in 2020 sales.                product categories.
and chief executive officer of Toure        companies as well. Several beauty               Bios Line, an Italian                      Goli, a brand that makes
Capital. “Now, people will look at          businesses have openly talked about          manufacture of natural                      apple cider vinegar vitamins, is
profitability,” Toure said, though he       the possibility of the public markets,       cosmetics, food supplements                 said to be navigating inbound
noted that isn’t the only thing buyers      including Morphe parent company              and medical devices for                     inquiries with the help of
will look at — “We are not there yet        Forma Brands, Glossier and Il Makiage.       personal care and wellbeing,                Centerview. Industry sources
where businesses get valued only on            “More and more companies that             is reported to have garnered                said the brand is surprisingly
                                                                                         interest from numerous funds,               big with broad distribution and
the profitability vertical.”                are getting to be of a certain scale —
                                                                                         including 21 Invest. Bios Line              a solid direct-to-consumer
  Global potential, too, has never          $150 million-plus revenue size — a
                                                                                         reportedly generated more than              business, with about $300
been more important. Buyers want            number of them are starting to think
                                                                                         30 million euros in 2019 sales.             million in net sales.
brands that either have, or could,          about, is a strategic exit what we’re                                                      Gray Away, a small brand
                                                                                            Men’s brands are hot
expand into China and the rest of the       really going to be looking for in terms      right now, which sources                    that’s part of Mana Products, is
Asian market, experts noted.                of a deal, or does it make sense at          said is because of Millennial               said to be coming to market with
  “All brands need to be able to            some point to consider the public            men taking personal care                    Threadstone. The business is
enter Asia — China cross-border, or         markets?” Goldman’s Gandhi said. ■           routines into products beyond               said to have $10 million in sales.  
                                                                                         soap. Several, including                      Il Makiage has hired
                                                                                         Duke Cannon with Houlihan                   Centerview to explore a
                                                                                         Lokey, Every Man Jack with                  possible sale or IPO, the
                                                                                         Intrepid, Manscaped, Brickell               company confirmed to WWD.
                                                                                         Men’s Products, Dude                        The business is expecting
                                                                                         Products and Dr. Squatch are                $150 million in net sales
                                                                                         said to be in the market.                   for 2020, after successfully
                                                                                         Industry sources said Duke                  building and scaling an online
                                                                                         Cannon has about $50 million                makeup business.  
                                                                                         in sales and $10 million in                   Kitsch, a hair accessories
                                                                                         Ebitda, that Manscaped has                  business, is said to have hired
                                                                                         about $100 million in sales,                Financo to explore options.
                                                                                         and that Dr. Squatch has about                Madison Reed, the direct-to-
                                                                                         $100 million in sales with $10              consumer hair color business, is
                                                                                         million in Ebitda. Manscaped                said to be raising another round,
                                                                                         ceo Paul Tran told WWD in                   according to industry sources.
                                                                                         an emailed statement: “So                     Merci Handy, a
                                                                                         many rumors going around.                   French personal-care brand
                                                                                         Manscaped is much larger than               conceived for Millennials, is
                                                                                         that [smiley face].”                        said to be looking either for
                                                                                            Erno Laszlo is expected to               further investment or maybe
                                                                                         come back to the market next                a sale. The brand, whose hero
                                                                                         year, industry sources said. The            product is a hand sanitizer,
                                                                                         business has done well in China             just entered the U.S. and U.K.
                                                                                         and is said to have $120 million            Its estimated annual sales are
                                                                                         in retail sales.                            about 20 million euros.   
                                                                                          Eve Lom and Kevyn                            Sources are also talking about
                                                                                         Aucoin are at least two of the              Tata Harper, which is also said to
                                                                                                                                                                                   Genz photograph by Dave Tacon

                                                                                         brands Manzanita Capital is                 be evaluating potential options.
                                                                                         said to be shopping around. Eve               Industry sources said
                                                                                         Lom was founded 30 years ago                the investment community
                                                                                         and acquired by Manzanita in                remains interested in Thrive
                                                                                         May 2013. Industry sources                  Causemetics, which is said to
Gen Z and Millennial                                                                     estimated it has sales between              have hired Goldman Sachs to
shoppers in China are                                                                    $17 million and $18 million.                evaluate options.
fueling interest in brands
that are buzzy there.
Clinically-
Effective,
Biocompatible
Skincare
BEAUTY ROLODEX                                                                                                                                                                                                             12

                                                                                                                                                                                      NOVEMBER 20, 2020

U.S.-based Venture
Capital and Private
Equity Beauty
Investors
The key financial players in the beauty sphere.
BY ALLISON COLLINS

BEAUTY HAS BEEN a hotbed                              group seems to grow by the year, as
of M&A activity for years now, with                   more firms hope to realize outsized
strategic buyers vying to take over                   exits with major returns. Here, a
companies and capabilities, and paying                rolodex of key U.S. venture capital and
top dollar to do so. Before that, though,             private equity investors in the beauty
come the early-stage investors. That                  sphere, in alphabetical order.

ADVENT INTERNATIONAL                                  BERTRAM CAPITAL PARTNERS
Headquarters: B o sto n                               Headquarters: S a n M a te o, C a l i f.
Current Beauty Investments:                           Current Beauty Investments:
O l a p l ex                                          Pa u l a ’s C h o i c e
Deal Size: Invests $100M to $2B in                    Deal Size: I nve st s $ 2 5 M to $ 1 0 0 M
companies with $50M-plus in sales.                    i n c o m p a n i e s w i t h b et we e n $ 3 0 M
Key Player: Tr i c i a G l y n n ,                    to $ 2 5 0 M i n s a l e s .                          $ 2 5 0 , 0 0 0 to $ 1 M i n c o m p a n i e s         GENERAL ATLANTIC
m a n a g i n g d i re c to r                         Key Player: J ef f D ra za n ,                        w i t h a t l e a st $ 2 M i n s a l e s .             Headquarters: N ew Yo r k
                                                      m a n a g i n g d i re c to r                         Key Player: Desiree Gruber, founder                    Current Beauty Investments:
ALLIANCE CONSUMER GROWTH                                                                                                                                           F o r m a B ra n d s , G rove C o l l a b o ra t i ve
Headquarters: N ew Yo r k a n d                       THE CARLYLE GROUP                                     ENCORE CONSUMER CAPITAL                                Deal Size: I nve st s $ 2 5 M to $ 5 0 0 M
Lo s A n g e l e s                                    Headquarters: Wa s h i n g to n , D.C.                Headquarters: S a n F ra n c i s c o                   i n c o m p a n i e s of va r y i n g s i ze s .
Current Beauty Investments:                           Current Beauty Investments:                           Current Beauty Investments:                            Key Player: A n d rew F e r re r,
H a r r y ’s , M i l k M a ke u p, O u a i ,          Pe r fe c t D i a r y, To k i wa                      S u p e rg o o p, B u t te r Lo n d o n                m a n a g i n g d i re c to r
N u d e st i x , Pa c i f i c a , Ta ta H a r p e r   Deal Size: I nve st s $ 5 0 M to s eve ra l           Deal Size: I nve st s $ 5 M to $ 4 0 M
Deal Size: I nve st s $ 5 M to $ 3 0 M                b i l l i o n d o l l a rs p e r c o m p a ny, i n    i n c o m p a n i e s w i t h b et we e n              GRYPHON INVESTORS
i n c o m p a n i e s w i t h $ 5 M to $ 5 0 M        c o m p a n i e s w i t h a t l e a st $ 7 5 M        $ 1 0 M to $ 1 0 0 M i n s a l e s .                   Headquarters: S a n F ra n c i s c o
in sales.                                             in sales.                                             Key Players: Ro b e r t B row n ,                      Current Beauty Investments:
Key Player: J u l i a n S te i n b e rg ,             Key Player: J a y S a m m o n s ,                     m a n a g i n g d i re c to r, N i c h o l e N ova k   Ro C S k i n c a re, M i l a n i C o s m et i c s
c ofo u n d e r a n d m a n a g i n g p a r t n e r   m a n a g i n g d i re c to r                         F e r ra ra , v i c e p re s i d e n t                 Deal Size: I nve st s $ 5 0 M to $ 5 0 0 M
                                                                                                                                                                   i n c o m p a n i e s w i t h $ 5 0 M to $ 2 5 0 M
ANCORA INVESTMENT HOLDINGS                            CLERISY                                               FENWICK BRANDS                                         in sales.
Headquarters: C h i c a g o                           Headquarters: M i a m i                               Headquarters: Birmingham, Ala.                         Key Player: M a t t F a r ro n , p a r t n e r
Current Beauty Investments:                           Current Beauty Investments: N / A                     Current Beauty Investments:
I n d i e Le e , Va p o u r B e a u t y,              Deal Size: I nve st s $ 5 M to $ 2 0 M i n            M a d i s o n Re e d , U rs a M a j o r                GRACE BEAUTY CAPITAL
Ta o s Ae r C l e a n D e o d o ra n t                companies with$10M-plus in sales.                     Deal Size: I nve st s $ 3 M to $ 1 2 M i n             Headquarters: N ew Yo r k
Deal Size: I nve st s va r y i n g                    Key Players: A l exa n d ra W i l k i s               companies with $5M-plus in sales.                      Current Beauty Investments:
amounts in companies with up                          W i l s o n ; L i s a M ye rs , c ofo u n d e rs      Key Player: E l i za b et h S tewa r t ,               Pa u s e We l l Ag i n g , S u p e rg o o p,
to $ 1 0 m i l l i o n i n s a l e s .                                                                      partner                                                P i n ro s e, G l a m s q u a d , B i rc h b ox ,
Key Players: N i c k y K i n n a i rd ,               CORNELL CAPITAL                                                                                              H a r r y ’s
Lo r i Pe re l l a K re b s , c o -fo u n d e rs      Headquarters: N ew Yo r k                             FINN CAPITAL PARTNERS                                  Deal Size: I nve st s $ 5 0 0 , 0 0 0 to
                                                      Current Beauty Investments:                           Headquarters: S a n F ra n c i s c o                   $5M in companies with less than
BAIN CAPITAL                                          K n ow l to n D eve l o p m e n t C o r p. ,          Current Beauty Investments:                            $20M in sales.
Headquarters: B o sto n                               B l u e M i st ra l                                   S ta r fa c e, C row n Af fa i r, W i n k y Lu x ,     Key Player: F ra n k F a z z i n g a ,
Current Beauty Investments:                           Deal Size: I nve st s $ 2 5 M to                      K j a e r We i s , U rs a M a j o r, N e e d e d ,     p re s i d e n t
Maesa, WWP Inc.                                       $ 1 0 0 M i n c o m p a n i e s w i t h b et we e n   C a ke, P l u s , Va c a t i o n
Deal Size: I nve st s $ 1 5 0 M - p l u s             $ 1 0 M to $ 5 0 0 M i n s a l e s .                  Deal Size: I nve st s $ 1 0 0 , 0 0 0                  HIGHLANDER PARTNERS
i n c o m p a n i e s w i t h $ 1 0 0 M to            Key Player: J u st i n e C h e n g , p a r t n e r    to $ 1 . 5 M i n c o m p a n i e s w i t h u p to      Headquarters: D a l l a s
$5B in sales.                                                                                               $10M in sales.                                         Current Beauty Investments: N / A
Key Players: R ya n C ot to n ,                       CULT CAPITAL                                          Key Player: Pa t F i n n ,                             Deal Size: Va r y i n g a m o u n t s i n
m a n a g i n g d i re c to r ; M i ra y To p a y,    Headquarters: N ew Yo r k                             m a n a g i n g p a r t n e r a n d c ofo u n d e r    b u s i n e s s e s w i t h s a l e s b et we e n
principal                                             Current Beauty Investments:                                                                                  $10M and $100M
                                                      S u p e rg o o p, La w l e s s B e a u t y            FORERUNNER VENTURES                                    Key Player: D a v i d O l s e n ,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Illustration by Matthew Billington

BEECHWOOD CAPITAL                                     Deal Size: Invests up to $10M in                      Headquarters: S a n F ra n c i s c o                   m a n a g i n g d i re c to r
Headquarters: We l l e s l ey, M a s s .              companies with at least $2M in sales.                 Current Beauty Investments:
Current Beauty Investments:                           Key Player: C h r i st i n e H o l c o m b,           G l o s s i e r, C u ro l o g y, P ro s e,             IMAGINARY VENTURES
Ko s a s , S h a n i D a rd e n S k i n C a re,       b ra n d a s s o c i a te                             N e c e s s a i re                                     Headquarters: N ew Yo r k
V i o l et G rey                                                                                            Deal Size: I nve st s $ 1 M to $ 1 0 M i n             Current Beauty Investments:
Deal Size: Invests $2M to $5M in                      DGNL VENTURES                                         c o m p a n i e s w i t h $ 1 M to $ 1 0 M - p l u s   B re a d B e a u t y S u p p l y, H u m
companies with $5M to $20M in sales.                  Headquarters: N ew Yo r k                             in sales.                                              N u t r i t i o n , N é c e s s a i re , H a w t h o r n e,
Key Player: La r r y Ka h n ,                         Current Beauty Investments: N / A                     Key Player: K i rste n G re e n ,                      Ko s a s , G l o s s i e r
fo u n d e r a n d m a n a g i n g p a r t n e r      Deal Size: I nve st s b et we e n                     fo u n d e r a n d m a n a g i n g p a r t n e r       Deal Size: I nve st s $ 1 M to $ 1 0 M „
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