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NISEKO | SUMMER 2018
NISEKO
DESTINATION
MAGAZINE
THE COLOURS
OF SUMMER
VOL 11 / ISSUE 51
CONTENTS
PLAY + ACTION
32
SEA KAYAKING
36
CAMPING IN HOKKAIDO
40
SUMMER FUN
42
FLY FISHING
44
MOUNTAIN BIKING & CYCLING
46
GOLF
NISEKO LIFE
50
PHOTO AARON JAMIESON ART + CULTURE
10 █
SPRING SOMOZA
50
"The beautiful Asiatic sight ARCHITECTURE
of freshly planted rice THE CLEARWATER
paddies offers spectacular AFTER THE MELT 50
reflections and photo COMMUNITY
opportunities in spring." INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL
10
FOUR SEASONS
THE BEAUT Y OF
NISEKO'S SEASONS
18
CULTURE
MATSURI (FESTIVAL)
SEASON
20
ADVENTURE
HUNTING FIREFLIES
24
FOOD 18 █
NISEKO GELATO C U LT U R E:
MATSURI SEASON
30
FOOD
HIGHLIGHTS
ON THE COVER
COVER PHOTO
SHAKOTAN PENINSUL A
RIDER
G L E N C L AY D O N
Glen Claydon is one of Niseko's 42 █
most prominent photographers and SUMMER ACTIVITIES:
documents life in Niseko year round
on his website 360niseko.com MOUNTAIN BIKING
VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018 6 7 VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018
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KAMIMURA KK. The publisher accepts no responsibility
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BAR GYU+ or photographs. No part of the publication
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THE ORCHARDS electronic, mechanical, photocopied,
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KUTCHAN TOURIST INFO CENTRE the accuracy of the information contained
HANAZONO 308 PARTNER PUBLICATION in this publication, neither the publisher nor
IGATE IKEUCHI NISEKO VILL AGE the employees of Niseko Media KK can be
IZONE IKEUCHI NISEKO VILL AGE held liable for any errors or omissions for the
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POWDER COMPANY app – download from your appstore. ©2018 NISEKO MEDIA KK
VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018 8 9 VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018
EDITOR’S NOTE
I have a secret that I need to reveal. It’s something
I've known deep down for a long time, but only realised
for certain a few years after I moved to Niseko and
experienced several summer/winter seasonal cycles.
█ KRISTIAN LUND
As I was putting this issue of My passion for warm weather opposite of “powder” to go with
Summerlife together, I realised it and fun in the sun came about “life”!). Green season isn’t 100 THANK YOU FOR
READING SUMMERLIFE
was time to let go of my anguish as a result of growing up surfing, per cent accurate as the start of
and decided there’s no better time fishing, boating and camping on spring and most of autumn aren’t Summerlife is a privately
funded, non-profit-making
or place to tell the world than in Australia’s east coast. Now my particularly green. Off-season initiative by Powderlife
this magazine. So, what I want to half-Japanese kids have their isn’t right either as that implies publisher Niseko Media KK.
It's designed to introduce
say is… I’m a summer person! own equally spectacular, if not winter is the only on-season, visitors to Niseko’s non-
more diverse landscape in which which as you’re about to discover, winter charms to encourage
That's not an easy thing to say in to create their own childhood is most definitely not true. year-round tourism for the
long-term benefit of the region
Niseko in winter when everyone's memories. Within a short walk or and its people.
having the time of their lives – drive we have volcanic mountains, In any case, this magazine is
We encourage you to support
especially when you're the editor some of Japan’s most pristine primarily distributed in Niseko
our long-standing advertisers
of the local ski mag! But don’t rivers, streams, waterfalls, in winter – when the world is who make our magazines
get me wrong – I’m not saying freshwater springs and lakes and here – and designed to introduce possible and directly contribute
to their quality and success.
I’m strictly hetero-seasonal. I do two spectacular coastlines on ski-season visitors to the wonder
love winter and there’s nowhere different oceans – the mighty of the "slower" seasons. So while
in the world I’d rather spend Pacific and the Sea of Japan. you might be a died-in-the-
the best part of four or five wool-jumper winter person, I'm
months cooped up inside. And Outdoor adventure and activity certain if you come back after
I absolutely love the consistent, opportunities are endless. I won’t the snow melts you will fall in love
dry powder snow that provides recount a list of everything you with what’s on offer here in the
daily entertainment and wonder can do in these parts because a warmer months as well. █
on and off the ski hill. flick through the pages of this
WHERE ARE YOU
magazine will give you a good idea. - KRISTIAN LUND
HEADED THIS
But there’s something about Although this magazine is by no SUMMER?
the cold that doesn’t allow me means an exhaustive round up. Tag your summer adventures
to feel completely relaxed. #summerlife
So I’ve decided to come clean Despite the title, this magazine
and confess I absolutely love isn’t just about summer. It’s just
summer more than anything else that summer is the best single
– especially when it’s served in word to describe the non-winter
Southwest Hokkaido. months (and the most perfect
VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018 10 11 VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018
FOUR SEASONS FOUR SEASONS
THE BEAUTY OF
NISEKO'S SEASONS
TEXT AARON JAMIESON
Living in Hokkaido and adopting the Niseko lifestyle
means becoming part of the powerful seasonal cycle
that governs all parts of life for all living things on the
island. It provides one of the greatest challenges to
existing on this remote northern island, but also brings
the most joy to the lives of all of us here.
To borrow from Japanese terminology, "kachoufugetsu"
literally translates to flower, bird, wind and moon. Its
combined meaning is ‘the beauty of nature’ but with an
understanding that they are connected and exist because of
each other. I think there is no better way to describe life in
Hokkaido. Hokkaido is a place that, for me, brings all factors
of life to their simplest form. The perfection of pure white dry
snow falling silently, or the fleeting moment a cherry blossom
is in full bloom. The rivers that flow with the seasons and the
blanket of brightly coloured leaves that cover Hokkaido every
autumn. Living with this harmonious natural cycle and taking
from each season what it brings have, for me, become the
essence of life.
PHOTO DARREN TEASDALE PHOTO MIKE RICHARDS
As spring breaks through the all- to get a head start on the green season ahead. the rivers and lakes, which begin to hum with with neatly planted rows of produce, their first
encompassing white, life flourishes with an Backcountry skiers wearing sunglasses and the roar of melting snow. Plant life returns to sprouts breaking the soil in record time. The SPRING HIGHLIGHTS
SPRINGING exponentially growing enthusiasm. The crisp, short sleeves traipse through the mountains green along the banks of the river and as the aroma of agriculture is everywhere as Niseko
• Sakura Season – Late Apr
cold mornings quickly become warm and now crisscrossed by bear tracks and a myriad first shoots from the trees begin to emerge, bursts to life.
BACK TO LIFE while the mountains still welcome skiers, the of other mammals emerging from the frozen the first rafts of the season drift by and the
The Niseko countryside is dotted
with cherry blossoms that explode in
COLOUR RETURNS TO valleys and farmlands embrace the farming world. river becomes a hive of activity. Fish activity As rivers bulge and farms spring to life, energy
colour for one short week a year
THE L ANDSCAPE community that underpins life in this fertile is invigorated as the cold snow melt fills the levels are high. Adventure is afoot and hiking
volcanic basin. The first human signs of spring The joy of warm sunny days is shared by all that streams bringing avid fishermen, braving the boots are brought out as ski boots are gradually • Rice Paddies – Apr-Jun
having truly arrived are the farmers spreading live in Niseko and T-shirts seem to be worn icy waters for a catch of the season. The snow put away. Ski touring runs late into spring but The beautiful Asiatic sight of freshly
charcoal on the last remaining snow on their as soon as the mercury climbs over about 12 cycle continues, only this time as a life-giving eventually, as the mountains adopt their green planted rice paddies offers spectacular
fields. This method speeds up the melt of the degrees. As the sun takes care of snow clearing, water supply for all creatures who exist from summer hue, snowboards are swapped for reflections and photo opportunities
snow by absorbing the sun's heat, accelerating residents suddenly have a few extra hours in the river. surfboards as locals chase waves in the still– • Crops and fields - Apr-Jun
the oncoming seasonal change. their days. By late March, it starts to feel like frigid waters of the river mouths. Spring has As soon as the earth breaks through
winter has been long and intense. Spring feels The irrefutable connection of the seasons sprung and a temperate early summer is only the melting snow pack the farmers
Spring is a raucous season as birds fill the like a much needed holiday has just arrived. is most obvious in spring and the smell of weeks around the corner. plant the season's first crops which
sky, chasing down insects and hustling for rejuvenation fills the air. The white fields are form beautiful patterns in the fields
nesting sites. The buzz of humanity reignites While life in the mountains sees the snow quickly replaced with freshly-tilled, rich, red across the region
as farming and construction once again try dissipate and melt away, this feeds life into volcanic soil. These fields are then quickly filled
VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018 12 13 VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018
FOUR SEASONS FOUR SEASONS
PHOTO KRISTIAN LUND PHOTO DARREN TEASDALE PHOTOS AARON JAMIESON
Spring sees rapid change and then, as suddenly Golf kicks off in earnest and cycling takes hold Shorts, T-shirts and an easy-going attitude nothing for a group of hikers on the roadside,
as it started, the snow is gone and the only as the lycra army rolls into town. Temperatures are the correct attire for summer. The wildlife preparing for a day in the mountains. SUMMER HIGHLIGHTS
SUNSHINE & signs that winter was here still cling to the hike their way over 30 degrees Celsius and is vibrant but relaxed and so too are the local
• Swimming Season – Jul-Aug
shadows of the gullies and valleys. Summer finding shade on a sunny day is essential. people. It's a time for getting things done… but Hikers and mountain bikers replace skiers as
GOOD TIMES marches into Niseko and it feels as though Hokkaido summers are not long and the locals not in too much of a hurry. the adrenalin seekers of the hills, and road
Head to the rivers, lakes and oceans
to make the most of the beautiful
GET OUT AND PL AY everyone takes an enormous deep breath. The know to enjoy them while they are here. It’s cyclists zip between the patchwork farms of the
summer weather
connection with the seasons means this is a matsuri (festival) season and it’s time to eat, Loading the car and heading out from valleys. Mt Yotei stands at the epicenter of it
time of recreation and relaxation. drink and celebrate life and prosperity into the Niseko on beautiful roads, there is so much all and commands an entirely green-shrouded • Matsuri (Festivals) – Jul-Aug
warm evening hours. to discover and all within a day’s trip. With presence over all that is happening in Niseko. Don your summer kimono for an
Camping and barbecues are the favoured coastlines less than an hour’s drive in either Her transformation from a blanket of white to evening of food, fun and fireworks with
activities and the lakes form the nuclei of Fireworks fill the sky through summer as each direction, spectacular lakes, and a collection a cloak of green is complete… and Niseko rolls friends and family! There's one or more
social events. The days lengthen to allow so local village celebrates a harvest or special of villages and towns full of character and life through its cycle of seasons and change. every weekend in July and August
much more to be achieved in 24 hours than commemorative event. Spirits are high and that largely hibernate through winter. • Barbecues – Jun-Sept
is conceivable in the other seasons, meaning productivity roars forward, as crops come 'Tis the season to get outdoors and
work and play make way for each other at the to harvest markets and street side stalls are Exploring by car, by bike and by foot means grill bite-size pieces of meat and fresh
mood and discretion of the day. overflowing with produce, each local farmer there is so much to do that the long days are produce on yakiniku-style BBQs on
offering their own ‘specialty’. very welcome. First light is early – really early weekend afternoons and evenings
– and the buzz of bikes whipping by at 5am is
VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018 14 15 VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018
FOUR SEASONS FOUR SEASONS
PHOTOS TOP PAUL MAL ANDAIN / BOT TOM DALE GOULDING PHOTOS AARON JAMIESON PHOTO AARON JAMIESON
Summer holds on until the end of August time of year is when the skies are clearest Waking on a crisp September morning to bringing with it gold, orange, brown and red
but as September creeps in, so do the cooler and the light is at its most pure. It’s now see the first leaves have faded from green and the wave of colour flows over the Niseko AUTUMN HIGHLIGHTS
THE COLOURS evenings and earlier finishes to barbecues that we are truly able to enjoy the beauty of overnight is a subtle hint that the certainty region. Starting on the mountain peaks and
• Autumn Colours – Late Oct
and events. Whispers of winter begin and an nature with crystalline skies of iridescent blue of winter is nigh. But not before the climax of settling on the farms, the countryside is
OF FALL urgency creeps back into the daily activities forming a backdrop for the impending array the green season and nature's most dramatic cloaked in a blanket of coloured leaves born
The spectacular patchwork of reds,
yellows and oranges that envelopes the
NATURE'S FINAL SHOW and schedule for human and animal residents of colour to be provided by the forests and display. Almost as though holding back a only a few months earlier, fed by the rivers
mountains is one of the highlights of
BEFORE WINTER alike. It’s time to prepare for winter, but not wilderness of Hokkaido. sneeze, the area shudders and shifts toward and the snow of the seasons before.
the year in Niseko
without finding time to enjoy one of the most a gigantic natural change. Like a volcanic
beautiful times of year, and certainly the This is a beautiful time for hiking and phenomenon the overwhelming greens are And so the cycle beings again. October • Salmon and Ikura – Sept-Oct
most spectacular season in Hokkaido. exploring the lakes of the area. Time spent pushed aside with the trees exploding into ordinarily sees the first snows arrive on As soon as the salmon run starts in early
in the mountains now is crisp and fulfilling, every hue imaginable. the peaks and we know the wild winters of September fresh sashimi, sushi and ikura
Winds change and bring with them a chill the humidity and heat of summer has Hokkaido are but weeks away. Soon we will are on the menu
from the northwest. The leaves begin to faded and the clear weather brings with it First to arrive are the momiji, or maple, be chasing powder snow in the mountains as • First Snowfalls – Late Sept-Oct
change and adopt the first tinges of red, gold, unprecedented views. Sure enough, the leaves bright red and proud, throwing their star- we connect with and embrace the seasonal Catching a glimpse of the first frost
brown and orange. A crispness fills the air will change and each species of tree will take shaped leaves to the ground in a statement cycle that is life in Niseko. █ or snowfall atop Mt Yotei is one of the
and the skies clear themselves of the flurry of its turn. As the fire crackles, autumn arrives of their readiness for winter. Just a few leaves most exciting moments of the year –
pollination and the proliferation of summer in the night. from each tree at first, the next day a few winter is nigh!
and spring with a pre-winter cleansing. This more, then all of a sudden yellow takes hold,
VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018 16 17 VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018
LIQUID REFLECTIONS
PHOTO SHIN TOKUMARU
To k u m a r u - s a n ' s b o o k m i n a m o f e a t u r i n g m o r e o f h i s s t u n n i n g p h o t o g r a p h y i s a v a i l a b l e f o r p u r c h a s e a t N i s h i n d o B o o k S h o p o n E k i m a e D o r i , t h e m a i n s t r e e t o f K u t c h a n To w n .
VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018 18 19 VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018CULTURE CULTURE
01 Jaga Matsuri 1000-person dance
02 Rankoshi Matsuri (Photo Aaron Jamieson)
03 Jaga Matsuri Nebuta float (Photo Paul Malandain)
04 Men carrying a symbolic lantern
05 Rankoshi Matsuri
06 Lanterns & fireworks (Photo Aaron Jamieson)
02 03
祭
01
P H OTO G L E N C L AY D O N
"Every town and shrine in Japan has a festival. Matsuri is an expression
of a town’s spirit and character. A celebration of summer, a fun way to
り
04 05
meet and mingle and unwind.
PHOTO PAUL MAL ANDAIN PHOTO AARON JAMIESON
As the heat of a hot summer’s day It’s evening, around 6 or 7pm. In summer the of years before, relived year after year. Every
twilights are long and the evenings cool after town and shrine in Japan has a festival. Matsuri
subsides into a cool summer evening,
MATSURI SEASON there’s an uncommon buzz in the air
often balmy days. On matsuri night, eyes slowly is an expression of a town’s spirit and character.
adjust to torch and lantern-light as the sky A celebration of summer, a fun way to meet
THE CELEBRATION OF SUMMER – it’s the weekend of the local summer grows dark. Smells drift from a dozen food stalls and mingle and unwind.
matsuri (festival). and food trucks. The conversation and laughter
of thousands of residents, none of them quite Here in rural Hokkaido, matsuri are as down-
TEXT MASHA SIMONOV Kids bounce off the walls, ready to be strangers, drift and mingle with music playing. home and local as you can get. Kutchan Town
wooed by a whirlwind of sugar candies Somewhere there is a stage, and a show, and celebrates local produce in its famous potato
and plastic knick-knacks. Adults can’t help people dancing, singing and clapping. festival – Jaga Matsuri. Highlights include
an all-you-can-gather potato grab, themed
but be caught up in the excitement, and
Everybody in town goes to the local matsuri lantern floats and taiko drumming. Niseko
many draw out their summer kimono for – co-workers, taxi drivers, town mayors, Town’s matsuri is known for its unbelievable
the occasion. Tonight, and only tonight, the ladies checking out your groceries at fireworks display and food stalls with the
M AT S U R I (祭) I S T H E J A PA N E S E W O R D there is a transformation. the supermarket. On the mainland, festival townsfolk out with their kids and picnic rugs.
F O R A F E S T I VA L O R H O L I D AY. I N J A P A N ,
traditions are timeless. You can see men and The kids all chase each other, glowsticks and
F E S T I VA L S A R E U S U A L LY S P O N S O R E D
BY A LOCAL SHRINE OR TEMPLE, women taking the very same steps on the very water guns in tow. 06
THOUGH THEY CAN BE SECUL AR. same streets as their ancestors did, hundreds
VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018 20 21 VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018CULTURE CULTURE
07 Niseko Tanabata Matsuri
08 Taiko drumming performance
09 Lanterns light the streets
10-12 Niko Niko Niseko Village Festival
10
07 08 11 12
PHOTO DARREN TEASDALE PHOTO PAUL MAL ANDAIN P H O T O S YA S U Y U K I S H I M A N U K I
Festivals are a magical time for kids, a special, The Souga shrine, on a small side road cool or smooth or even a spectacle. It's a
once-a-year event akin to Christmas, where connecting Niseko Village to Niseko Town, celebration of community and an opportunity 2018 MATSURI CALENDAR
they can let themselves go and enjoy carnival offers a local talent show with the hundred or so for everyone to get outdoors and celebrate Mid July
games, cheap plastic toys that light up and residents in the area taking the stage to dance, the short, spectacular summer. • Kyogoku Shakkoi (Water) Matsuri
make noise, and delicious food that can only be sing or perform comedy routines. In Hirafu, • Tomari Kuki (Herring) Matsuri
eaten on that day. the most international of all the townships, Everyone comes to eat tasty food on
Late July
real estate moguls and baristas will take up skewers and drink “ramune” soft drink and • Kanronomori Natsu (Summer) Matsuri
At the Niseko Shrine festival in late September, newspaper swords and compete in the great beer. It’s also a chance to wear your yukata • Kutchan Jinja (Shrine) Matsuri
twice my friend passes me asking whether I’ve newspaper sumo sword fighting tournament, (summer kimono) and is one of the only times
Early August
seen her son, apt to run hyperactive laps in the with snowboards and cash prizes up for grabs. people get to do so in this day and age. It’s a
• Kutchan Jaga (Potato) Matsuri
presence of his friends. Each time I name the The head of Grand Hirafu ski resort serves wonderful opportunity for foreign residents
• Niseko Tanabata (Fireworks) Matsuri
time and place I last saw them zooming by. But beers and green tea at the corner store. and visitors to take part in a culture that is all
• Iwanai Dotou (Wild Wave) Matsuri
the lady selling hand-dyed handbags, the man at once ancient, modern and timeless. █
09 selling imported wine, and the Michelin-starred The true summer festival is the antithesis of a Late August
chef selling delectable snacks and drinks at his grand, slick event. From the collection of face- • Hirafu Matsuri
stall all know the boy by name, as does a good painted scarecrows in Kyowa town’s summer • Kaributo Jinja (Niseko Shrine) Matsuri
third of the crowd. celebrations to Kutchan’s time challenge • Kyowa Kakashi (Scarecrow) Festival
potato grab, nothing about these events is • Niko Niko (Smile) Niseko Village Festival
VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018 22 23 VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018ADVENTURE ADVENTURE
01 Perfect firefly habitat
02 The fascinating firefly
03 A classic Niseko summer evening
03
Shiribetsu. I explain to Satoba-san: "When I saw trees surround us. The little stream we've been
fireflies in Nagano it was in a sort of pondy area, following flows out to a still water reservoir.
the water wasn't really flowing. It was very dark.” We decide to sit on the bench and wait out our
Our confidence wavers. With 30 minutes left remaining 10 minutes.
on the clock we head out to Rankoshi.
And then, at that very last moment, we see
"Yeah, sure, fireflies. There are fireflies," a them. One twinkle at first, blinking. Definitely
local rafting guide told us an hour before our not spots in my eyes. Then another, and
departure. His farmer friend chips in, "I've another. Three in total. We watch mesmerised.
seen some, for sure. Niseko is a good place for The fireflies float up and above the lake, around
them. The water is so clean." The consensus is the reeds, the trees, and us. They hover and
reassuring, but when pressed for specifics the reflect off the perfectly still water. They look
answer is always vague. like cool, white Christmas lights set to a dim
01 glow. They twinkle rhythmically, off for a bit
On the far side of Rankoshi we find Yoshikuni and on for a while, and fly around in that aimless
Park. Lawns, trees and flowers centre around a yet purposeful way that insects do. Sometimes
walking trail, and a man-made stream meanders they appear to chase each other, other times
the length of the park. A little way from the just drift in vague arcs over the water. They are
street lights, darkness envelops us. We make it beautiful, natural little lights in the night.
to the far end of the park and sit on the side of
a bend in the stream. There are trees here, and We sit, bask, enjoy, laugh and watch in quiet
My partner Satoba-san and I are on the hunt Last summer I spent many a free night around reeds, and it’s dark as can be – as likely a spot satisfaction. I count six at the most. By about 9.15
for one of Japan's signature summer sights – the spring water fountain near Hirafu, or as any. It takes a few minutes for our eyes to pm the twinkling lights hover towards the trees,
HUNTING fireflies. We’ve Googled the requirements: down below the big bridge leading out of adjust. Everything looks grainy. My eyes dart land on leaves and glow intermittently. Then,
FIREFLIES fresh, still water with reeds and shrubbery;
dark, secluded forest; 8 to 9 pm. We have an
town towards Kutchan, squinting into the
darkness. One night I could have sworn I
around at every spark, but nothing shines except one by one, the lights blink out. The internet was
starlight glinting off the ripples in the flowing right, the fireflies go to bed after 9pm. █
A SUMMER EVENING
hour before the fireflies tuck in for the night saw a mysterious twinkle while staring into stream below. I stare into the darkness like this
ADVENTURE
before coming alive again (albeit less brightly) nothingness, though it could just as well have for five, 10 minutes, willing twinkling lights to
around 11pm, and again at 2am. Arriving at been my vision spotting in the dark. come into being.
8.10, we have 50 minutes left to hunt. 02
TEXT MASHA SIMONOV
After my fourth venture through the forests It's 8.50 and at this point I begin to doubt FIREFLY HUNTING CHECKLIST
Japanese families crowd around This is not my first stumble through the this year looked just as fruitless as last year's fireflies even exist in Niseko at all. Frogs • Mid-June to early August
woods I've embarked upon in order to catch endeavours, I decided to research – that is, ask "Niseko has everything fireflies chirping, distant bird calls, and an endless rustle • Warm evenings – 20C degrees plus
barbecues, couples bask in electric
a glimpse of summer fireflies. Fireflies are Japanese friends to Google in Japanese – and need – streams, forests and of leaves are our companions. Meanwhile the • 8-9 pm, 11 pm-12 am and 2-3 am
lantern light, kids play cards behind
sensitive to water and air quality, and struggle two spots came up as potential firefly habitats. pitch black as far as the eye stars are gorgeous. "I just saw a shooting star!" • Clean, still, smallish bodies of water
tent-flap fly screens. Warmly lit tent
in the city where tungsten lighting floods out Sahina Campsite on the far side of Niseko's can’t see." Satoba-san calls out, gazing up as we stroll. She’s
complexes that could be straight out • Reeds, bushes, overhanging trees
their gentle glow. Niseko has everything they onsen precinct, and Yoshikuni Park in Rankoshi. upbeat, and so I feel upbeat. Come what may,
of camping catalogues are neatly need – streams, forests and pitch black as far
• Little competing light, natural or
we've had a nice night exploring in the darkness. artificial
separated by rows of trees. Bonfires as the eye can’t see. The cool climate and short In Sahina we hear the river behind an
crackle, the air is thick with delicious • Insect repellent
summers are the only things that stand in the impenetrable hedge wall that marks the edge The lake, when we come to it, is maybe four
barbecue smoke. It’s a warm Saturday way of the view-on-demand firefly experience of the campsite – a dull and steady roar, so it • Happy hunting!
or five metres long and equally wide. A little
summer evening and the campsite is full. that occupies Japanese summer folklore. may be that we're on the banks of the mighty pagoda and bench are on the lawn nearby, and
VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018 24 25 VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018BLUE RIVER, BIEI
PHOTO AARON JAMIESON
VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018 26 27 VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018FOOD FOOD
"If it looks like it’s going to be really hot we’ll
NISEKO GELATO make a sorbet for that cool, fresh flavour. If
HAVE AN ICE DAY the weather looks like it might be cooler we’ll
do some more creamy, nutty gelatos."
D E N N I S VA N D E N B R I N K
TEXT KRISTIAN LUND
There’s nothing “vanilla” about Niseko Gelato. Niseko Gelato is the latest creative venture FLAVOURS TO CHOOSE FROM:
Niseko’s summer gelato shop prides itself on by legendary Niseko chef and organic
doing things a little differently. So don’t be farmer Dennis van den Brink. Dennis-san
surprised when you go if you find ice cream is somewhat of a local celebrity, regularly
flavours you’ve never heard of, or could even appearing in Japanese magazines and TV
dream of. programmes. Everything he does with food is
creative, innovative and inspired.
At Niseko Gelato you won't find tried-and-
true replicas of the classic flavours you used to One of the beautiful things about life in
eat at your local ice creamery. Instead you're Hokkaido is the different produce and flavours
likely to find a creative interpretation with available across the seasons. With the gelato
an injection of organic or natural ingredients “factory” in view of customers right behind the ACAI & COCONUT WATER COCONUT WITH EARL GREY & MANDARIN HOLO HOLO HOKK AIDO
inspired by the flavours of the season. servery, Dennis says Niseko Gelato is entirely CHOCOL ATE FUDGE & WITH HASK AP
RUM GANACHE
flexible, matching flavours to, and working
I was hooked on Niseko Gelato after my first with, what’s in season.
visit thanks to one simple flavour. Being a
long-time lover of mint-flavoured sweets, I was “If it looks like it’s going to be really hot we’ll
instantly drawn to the mention of “Wild Mint”. make a sorbet for that cool, fresh flavour,” he
It sounded spectacular, but it wasn’t until I says. “But if the weather looks like it might
tasted it that I understood what Niseko Gelato be cooler we’ll do some more creamy, nutty
was all about. Rather than the sweet, confected gelatos. If strawberries are in season we buy a
mint flavour you’ll find mixed with flakes of bunch of amazing strawberries, and when the
cheap chocolate in mass-produced ice creams, watermelons are out we’ll go and grab a bunch
this was made with locally harvested wild mint of them. We’re not just making ice cream –
Niseko Gelato is located at MOCHA ALMOND RASBERRY CHEESCAKE TIRAMISU CUSTARD STICKY MEDJOOL DATE &
79-45 Motomachi, Niseko-cho
leaves. The difference was incomparable. what I like to do is something more." █
FUDGE CREAM CHEESE COFFEE GRAPEFRUIT
0136-44-1385 CHOCOL ATE
VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018 28 29 VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018FOOD FOOD
SALMON RUN
In early autumn each year the beaches are
lined with fishermen wielding giant fishing
poles, trying to catch salmon before they
make it back to the relative safety of the
river of their birth. For when they enter
the river system, they are protected from
recreational fisherman – although not,
it must be said, from Hokkaido brown
bears and birds of prey. If they manage to
negotiate the final stretch of their gauntlet
alive, they may fulfil their life’s goal – to
spawn, and die.
Such is the life cycle of the paradoxical
salmon, who, after being born upstream
in freshwater, ventures out into the ocean
to mature, before several years later
uncannily finding its way back to the
very same river, and often the very same
HYDUNE BURGER & BAR spawning ground, of its birth.
Since the summer of 2014, a trip to Lake Toya
hefty serving of fresh Hokkaido produce, and If you’re in Hokkaido in September or
isn’t complete without dropping by Hydune
crafted with typical Japanese food mastery. Hydune Hamburger & Bar is located at October and have a chance to head
(rhymes with high-noon) and wrapping your
Mind you, this is by no means fast food – it’s 70-6 Toyako Onsen, Toyako-cho
towards the ocean anywhere near Niseko,
jaws around one of their now-famous burgers. 080-5835-1085
made with love and all the time necessary look for one of the many streams or rivers
Run by a crew of funky local chicks, many
to craft the perfect burger for customers. running from the mountains out to the sea.
of whom previously worked in Niseko, this
Be prepared to wait a few extra minutes, but Find a river mouth or bridge within a few
East-meets-West hamburger joint takes the
believe me – it’s worth the wait! █ hundred metres of the ocean and peer over
best of American fast-food culture and serves
it inside a huge house-made bun along with a the edge. Often there will be hundreds,
if not thousands, of huge green and pink-
tinged salmon heading slowly but surely
upstream towards their destiny. █
FRUIT PICKING UNI AND IKURA SEASON
For fruit lovers, there could be nothing more Dozens of Yoichi’s orchards are open to the Everyone living in a four-seasons destination has their favourite times of the year – special
heavenly than an all-you-can-eat smorgasbord public, allowing visitors to wander the fields moments or experiences that only come around once a year, and usually for short periods of
of bright, juicy, organic produce straight from and – for a small fee – pick and eat as much time. For example, the changing colour of the leaves in autumn; the first snowfalls of winter; or
tree or vine. And that is exactly what you can as they like. For just a few yen more you can the blooming of the cherry blossoms in spring. Two such moments for many are the first taste
indulge in at Yoichi, a fertile slice of paradise also fill a tub to take home for later. If you of the seasonal uni (sea urchin) and ikura (salmon roe) as they appear in mid-summer and early
hidden amongst Southwest Hokkaido’s rolling time your trip right, there could be several autumn respectively. These two local delicacies are available in restaurants year-round. But
mountain ranges. An hour’s drive due north different types of fruit ripe for the picking. If never are they as good as the first, fresh serves of their seasons.
of Niseko, where the winding green mountain you are a fruit lover, check out the calendar
passes descend to sea level, a fertile river opposite and plan your Niseko summer holiday
valley fans out towards the coastline of the around your favourite fruits’ season – ask your Uni scooped out of its hard, spiky shell could be described as a fruit of the sea, with a slightly
Sea of Japan, encompassing what is known as accommodation provider or contact Explore sweet, rich, creamy texture. Ikura, otherwise known as “red caviar”, are glistening, omega
“Northern Fruit Kingdom”. Niseko for details. █ 3-packed sacs of exquisite piquancy that explode with surprise and flavour on the taste buds.
Hokkaido, and especially particular areas along the coastlines around Niseko including the
WHEN TO GO:
Strawberries Plums Grapes Shakotan Peninsula, are famous for the harvest of both of these delicacies. If you’re a lover of
Mid Jun – Early Jul Early Aug – End Sep Early Sep – Early Nov the finest seafood, be sure to visit between June and October to experience either or both at
Cherries Peaches Apples
End Jun – Early Aug Mid Aug – End Oct Early Sep – Early Nov their exquisite best. █
Blueberries Prunes Pears
End Jul – End Aug Mid Aug – End Oct End Sep – End Oct
VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018 30 31 VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018ABOVE THE WATERLINE
P H OTO G L E N C L AY D O N
VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018 32 33 VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018PL AY + ACTION PL AY + ACTION
While it might be hard for ski-season visitors water surrounding the peninsula is so distinctly tours that give you a taste and get you right
to imagine, the predominant shade of the different to the rest of the region that the up close and personal with the ocean floor.
SEA KAYAKING summer months in Niseko is a powerful colour has been given its own name – Shakotan But for a real adventure jump on a kayak or
spectrum of greens and blues. From the dense blue. The mere sight of crystal clear rock pools SUP (stand-up paddle) board. If you haven’t
EXPLORING THE foliage of the forests to the blue and green and coves on a hot summer’s day is enough SUP boarded before, the ocean probably
SHAKOTAN PENINSUL A tinged rivers, lakes and oceans, the strength of to give a beach-lover the urge to race to the isn’t the best place to learn, so for many of us
the summer colours are a stark contrast to the water’s edge and dive in… although unless it’s that leaves kayak as the number one choice.
all-pervading white of winter. peak summer prepare for it to be a little chillier They’re fairly stable once you get the hang
TEXT KRISTIAN LUND than the tropics. of them, you’re sitting down so you can take
P H OTO S G L E N C L AY D O N One of the most dramatic colours of summer a breather any time, and you can keep your
can be found off the Sea of Japan coastline, an The Shakotan Peninsula is also home to one belongings safely tucked away inside.
hour’s drive west of Niseko. From Shimamaki of the most dramatic, cliff-lined coastlines in
in the south to Otaru in the north, far from Hokkaido which, coupled with the water colour, The best time to do a tour is when the weather
the pollutants of any major industrial ports, makes for a spectacular combination. You can is fine – the fewer clouds the better as the
the waters off Southwest Hokkaido take on an get a feel for the beauty of the area by driving sunlight brings out the full brilliance of all the "The Shakotan Peninsula is also home to
almost tropical clarity in various tones of vivid, along the coastline and walking out onto the colours. Light winds are also a bonus so the one of the most dramatic, cliff-lined
turquoise ocean blue. gnarled spine of the punctuating tip of the water is nice and calm and you can take your coastlines in Hokkaido."
peninsula at Cape Kamui. pick of locations – however if the wind is up
In particular, there is one point along the from one direction, you may be able to head to
coastline where the water puts on a show The most rewarding way to experience a leeward side of the peninsula.
all of its own – the Shakotan Peninsula. The Shakotan blue, however, is to immerse
almost-phosphorescent blue colour of the yourself in it. There are glass-bottom boat
VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018 34 35 VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018PL AY + ACTION PL AY + ACTION
01 02 04
01 Shakotan pinnacle Once on the water you leave civilisation There are several Niseko companies offering spiky sea urchin “uni” clinging to the sides of
02 Navigating caves behind – the road that hugs most of the tours out to the peninsula, picking up guests the rock pools. Although it must be noted it’s
03 Chile con carne with Takanashi-san
04 Exploring the kelp pools coastline around here heads inland as you from Niseko and transporting them out to the illegal to take any or even eat any on the spot,
head out towards the wild, rugged coastline. coast by bus. One of these is Toyru, the little ski no matter how tempting it may be.
Generally, you will stick relatively close to the and outdoor shop just near the Hirafu Gondola.
shore where the shallower sea floor intensifies It’s owned and run by legendary local telemark A tour out on the water takes a leisurely several
the colours, and you can duck and weave skier and Niseko poster boy, Yutaka Takanashi. hours, although allow the better part of the day
between rock formations and explore deep Sponsored by adventure brand Patagonia, from door-to-door to get out to the peninsula
holes and kelp forests. The highlight is feeling Takanashi-san loves the great outdoors year- and account for preparation and packing up.
the exhilaration of adventure as you paddle round, and guides the Shakotan tours himself. Pack plenty of sunscreen, a sense of adventure
into some of the many caves that penetrate and explore the depths of one of Niseko’s
deep into the heart of the cliff faces. Takanashi-san is passionate about Shakotan green-season wonders. █
and makes sure guests have the best possible
If your guide is up for it, they may take you a experience. He brings along a gas stove and
little way offshore where the views take on a cooks up a small feast for lunch – often a
different aspect – looking back over the water chilli con carne – below one of the several-
"The highlight is feeling the to the land. If you head out far enough in hundred-metre-high cliffs that can only be
exhilaration of adventure the right spot, you can actually see Mt Yotei accessed by water. While he’s preparing it’s
as you paddle into some and the Annupuri Range. Mt Yotei above time for a dip. Takanashi-san will lend you
of the many caves that an expanse of Shakotan blue and sheer cliff some goggles so you can dive down and get a
penetrate deep into the faces… now that’s sure to get a sea of likes on feel for what lies beneath the surface. Keep
03
heart of the cliff faces" your Instagram page! your eye out for a Shakotan delicacy – the
VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018 36 37 VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018PL AY + ACTION PL AY + ACTION
05
03
06
01 04 07
PHOTO PAUL MAL ANDAIN
01 Summer camp vibes 05 Old school exploration
02 Island time 06 The perfect set up
03 Takarada Camp Ground, Lake Toya 07 Breakfast with a view
04 Bifue Camp Ground, Lake Shikotsu
Niseko’s summer starts in earnest when If salt water and sand are more your flavour,
then there are also a number of great LAKESIDE CAMP SPOTS
CAMPING IN camping and barbecues dominate
conversation preceding every weekend. beachside campgrounds within an hour’s
Hangetsuko / Half Moon Lake Shikotsuko / Lake Shikotsu Toyako / Lake Toya
HOKKAIDO With temperate summers, camping in drive of Niseko. The coastline and mountains
Shaped like a half crescent moon, Hangetsuko Shikotsuko is another of Hokkaido’s most Toyako is a well-known and exceptionally
Niseko and the surrounding region is of Hokkaido are spectacular and camping is
allowed in many parks and reserves across the at the foot of Mt Yotei is a beautiful spot with famous lakes and, at 363m, is the second beautiful destination for Hokkaido locals
the best way to indulge in the pristine a lovely bush walk, which takes about an hour. deepest in Japan. Shikotsuko is surrounded and visitors from Japan and abroad. About
entire island.
TEXT A ARON JAMIESON wilderness in its most pure form. The more adventurous can hike to the top by spectacular volcanic mountain peaks and 10km in diameter with several cone-shaped
PHOTOS PAUL M AL ANDAIN & A ARON JA MIESON
The Japanese love camping, but only at of Mt Yotei (about four hours) and look into boasts magnificent vistas in every direction. islands in its centre, the lake is encircled by
Niseko is wedged on a swathe of land between the crater which, at the start of summer, still There is a cute campsite with great facilities a road linking the small towns, restaurants
certain times. If it's school holidays and
two oceans. With mountains and rivers, the has a small pond of melted snow in its basin. nestled on the lake’s western shore. Look for and onsens dotted around its shores. Cycling
designated camping season, the camp
region is thriving with wildlife and wilderness Hangetsuko itself is just a 10-minute walk from Bifue Camping Ground and pack your fishing around the lake is a great way to spend the
grounds will be absolutely packed. Outside
centred around two picturesque lakes flooding the campsite for a refreshing swim on a hot rods, the lake is full of fresh water fish of day, or just relax in one of the well-appointed
these times, you could have the wilderness
large volcanic craters. Their pristine fresh summer’s day. There are fresh water and toilet many varieties. campsites with a book, while the kids swim or
almost all to yourself.
water makes for fantastic swimming, water facilities at the campsite, and a delicious udon enjoy water activities on the lake.
sports and fishing and there are a multitude of restaurant at the end of the road which makes
campsites spotted around the lakes, varying for a great lunch on your last day.
02
from well-appointed to more secluded.
VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018 38 39 VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018PL AY + ACTION
08 A serious camp set up (Photo Paul Malandain)
09 Mmmm, bacon
10 Hokkaido squirrel
11 A room with a view
12 Lake Shikotsu
10 11
08
09 12
NISEKO COASTAL CAMPING AREAS
Shakotan Peninsula Central Hokkaido
This rugged coastal peninsula juts out westward Central Hokkaido is home to Hokkaido’s Site. One of Hokkaido’s most beautiful
between Otaru and Iwanai and has fantastic highest peaks with 16 reaching over 2000m, areas, Shiretoko has spectacular scenery and
coastal scenery with jagged cliff faces and all within the Daisetsuzan National Park – fantastic options for hiking and day trips.
separating some beautiful sandy beaches. the largest national park in Japan. Daisetsuzan
There are a number of places to camp with is crisscrossed with walking trails and there are The Northern Tip
an official campground near the end of the plenty of information points and signs to point Looking to the northern-most point of
peninsula as well as a beautiful beachfront you in the right direction. the island you will see Rishiri and Rebun,
campground right on the sand. two small islands located just off the coast.
Eastern Hokkaido Rishiri is dominated by a towering volcanic
Okushiri Island Heading further east to the area around peak, visible from almost 100km away. This
This small island lies off the coast, about an Hokkaido’s most famous lakes – Akanko, remote corner of Hokkaido offers campers
hour on the car ferry and has two great camp Mashuko and Kussharoko – you will encounter a truly unique location with several choices
grounds. On the west coast, Kitaoimisaki Park more pristine volcanic wilderness and an area of campsites around the small island. There
camp ground, and Sainokawara Park on the worth spending several days exploring the lakes are a variety of campsites with onsens close
island’s northern tip. Certainly worth a day or and surrounding area. Further east is Shiretoko by to suit families, or more secluded sites for
two detour from a Hokkaido camping road trip. National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage wildlife and adventure enthusiasts. █
VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018 40 41 VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018PL AY + ACTION PL AY + ACTION
JAPAN’S BIGGEST
NEW TREE TREK
Niseko has taken another big step towards
becoming the four-seasons adventure capital
of Japan this year as home to the country's
biggest tree trekking course. Built right
alongside the Ace Family Run in Hirafu by a
specialist tree-trekking course builder all the
way from Estonia, the new NAC Adventure
Park connects almost a hectare of pine forest
– an area equivalent to the size of a football
field. Set between 5m and 13m above the
ground, there are a total of 100 features and
obstacles including climbing nets, tightropes,
bridges, ziplines and rope swings. It's very safe
but you need to be at least 6 years old and
taller than 115cm for the standard courses and
140cm for advanced. Open year round! █
www.nacadventures.jp
RENT A SCOOTER GETTING INTO THE
There’s no funner way to explore a holiday
RHY THM OF SUMMER
destination than by motor scooter, and as of last When Rhythm started a humble ski rental One of the businesses playing a key part in help make it a success and keep building the
summer you can do just that in Niseko! Niseko’s business in 2005, Niseko was just starting the green-season revolution is Rhythm, which atmosphere of summer in Niseko.
year-round activity booking centre Explore to become known as an international ski now spends the “off-season” doing everything
Niseko jumped on the opportunity to introduce destination. But as a summer tourism it can to build the spirit of summer in Niseko. So if you’re coming back to check out what
mechanised two-wheel tourism and now offers destination? Apart from a thriving day-trip Soon after the final lifts are switched off in Niseko looks like sans-snow, be sure to head
scooters for rent to visitors. While road cycling rafting industry and several long weekends May, the team throws a free barbecue for all on in to Rhythm, let them kit you up and
and mountain biking are popular green season that attracted a few domestic visitors, and sundry outside their Hirafu headquarters point you in the direction of your summer
pastimes here, if you need some time off Niseko used to go into summer hibernation on the main street above the traffic lights, adventure. Be sure to give the guys a high
the pedals and just want to zip around to see with most shops and restaurants closing unofficially marking the start of summer for five on your way out the door! █
more of the countryside and local sightseeing down and the villages becoming ghost towns the international community. www.rhythmjapan.com
attractions, one of these nifty 50cc mopeds is for most of the year.
for you. They’re easy to ride, cheap on fuel, and The rental shop itself turns into the Hirafu
cheap to rent… and there’s no better way to get That’s all starting to change. After a decade summer hub for international visitors looking
a lung full of Niseko’s fresh air! █ of promotion driven largely by the winter to rent everything needed for mountain
www.explore-niseko.com accommodation providers, hotels and other biking, road cycling, hiking and recently SUP
big businesses, there are now domestic and (stand-up paddle) boarding. Not only do they
international tourists here over much of the offer the equipment, they also run regular
“off-season”. It’s still very quiet compared group cycling mornings for locals and visitors
to winter, but there is an ever-increasing alike. If there’s an activity or event on in
Explore Niseko can book all the activities
in this magazine and plenty more. Go to number of businesses open and a variety of town, the Rhythm team will be sponsoring it
Explore-Niseko.com, or drop into their summer activities and events on offer. or lending a hand in some form or another to
booking office at Odin Place, 1F to book.
VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018 42 43 VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018PL AY + ACTION PL AY + ACTION
02
01 03 04 05
As winter turns to spring the snow melts from region, boasting both Lake Toya and Lake and characteristics of the most common Whether fishing the main areas or venturing
the mountains and the rivers begin to swell. Shikotsu, offers a variety of picturesque 01 Finding the sweet spot insects to truly understand the stimulants of deeper into the wilderness in search of the
FLY FISHING So begins an entirely new cycle as fish spring locations to chase the fish of the season. 02
03
Amemasu (white spotted Japanese char)
A fish in the net is worth...
their target species. This holistic approach smaller and less frequented rivers and bigger
to life in search of food. As they do, more captivates the minds of the adventurous fish, taking a professional guide can help. More
GO WITH THE FLOW 04 Unidentified species
and more fishermen can be found astride Niseko is prime fishing territory in Southwest 05 Custom-made Niseko flies artisan fisherman and informs their pursuit to than just finding your way and identifying fish
the banks of the largest and most flourishing Hokkaido. The Shiribetsu River is officially create the perfect fly. and fishing hot spots a day on the river with a
rivers of the Niseko region. The best time one of Japan’s most pristine rivers and draws local also means gaining a few local secrets on
TEXT AARON JAMIESON to fish is just after the melt starts to abate well-informed and adventurous fishermen For fly fisherman, the process of catching designing the perfect fly. █
PHOTOS HUGO TRÉMOLIÈRE
around May, and then again just before winter from across the country and overseas. Coming a fish starts with an intimate understanding
kicks in around October. to Hokkaido to fish its rivers, lakes and oceans of the seasons, the life cycles of the insects
"The Shiribetsu River is officially is, for many fishermen, a famed pilgrimage and the tastes of the fish, which informs the
one of Japan’s most pristine rivers Apart from the spectacular local scenery, to a new frontier. It’s also a chance to learn crafting of their flies. Starting with a barbless
and draws fishermen from across the stunning Shiribetsu River and its culturally unique methods of Japanese fly- hook, the process incorporates feather, cotton Thanks to local guide Hugo Trémolière for lending
the country and overseas." tributaries are home to a wonderful array tying and fishing techniques. and steel with clever methods of binding and us his expertise and introducing us to the art of fly
making (see some of Hugo’s beautiful flies above!).
of freshwater fish, including several species interweaving colours and textures to react with For more information or to book a tour go to
of the prized trout and salmon. These rivers Dedicating themselves to the study of the water surface. niseko-flyfishing.com.
feed the lakes, which in turn are their own nature and their natural environment, local
natural havens for marine life. The Niseko fly fishermen study the shape, movement,
VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018 44 45 VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018PL AY + ACTION PL AY + ACTION
NISEKO CL ASSIC
TEXT KRISTIAN LUND
The UCI Gran Fondo – the amateur cycling The UCI Gran Fondo differs from the
world tour – selects about 20 destinations professional world cycling tour in that the
around the world to host championship amateur participants generally can’t afford
qualifying races each year. Of those, Niseko is to tour the whole year to every destination.
one, and one of only two Asian destinations on Instead, it’s largely riders competing just once
the tour. in the race that is hosted closest to them, and
for the top 25 per cent of finishers at each
“That’s testament to the quality and suitability location, the opportunity to compete in a
of Niseko and Hokkaido as a road cycling penultimate world championship race that is
destination,” says Kento Maeda, marketing held in a different destination each year.
manager for the local event the Niseko Classic.
“Riders love the race here because of the Maeda-san is confident that destination could
beautiful views from the mountains out to the one day be Niseko. “UCI has said Niseko has
sea, the cool climate and fresh air, and wide, a lot of potential so it would be incredible
well-maintained roads.” publicity for Niseko if we did secure the world
championship event. That would mean the best
The Niseko Classic has been staged for the amateur riders from all over the world would
past four years, featuring 70km and 140km get a chance to experience Niseko in summer,
races, and from this year a 3.4km time trial and all the associated media coverage that
course. The event has grown from just 165 would come with it.” █
participants in its inaugural event in 2014 to www.nisekoclassic.com
881 last year. This year they’re expecting more
than 1000. Participants will come from all over
the world to compete, but a majority of riders
NISEKO CL ASSIC 2018: 7 – 8 JULY
will be from Japan.
Entry fees
Time Trial: ¥4000 / 70km: ¥12,000 /
MOUNTAINBIKE TRAILS
140km: ¥14,000
TEXT MASHA SIMONOV
Entries open: December 15
P H OTO S G L E N C L AY D O N
Amateur riders of all abilities are welcome
A core crew of local mountain-bikers has 25-hectare parcel of land on the eastern
8 FACTS ABOUT THE MTB to join – and in fact plenty of people who
been busy hacking through the undergrowth edge of greater Hirafu Village, built by
MARKET live in Niseko and rarely do any riding at
and sculpting the mountainsides over the another new company Trail & Track Japan.
all manage to pump up the tyres on their
past few summers building Niseko’s first • Mountain bikers are getting older
old racers and give the 70km circuit a
“flow trails”. Flow trails are a modern form of Development of the Ginto Trail was driven and younger
go. If you’re not a competitive cyclist but
mountain-bike trail ingeniously designed to by Holiday Niseko, a local accommodation
• The mountain bike market has like the idea of entering an official cycling
suit a wide range of skill levels from relative provider with a particular passion for mountain spending power event and at the same time experience
beginners right through to pros. Rather than biking. The trail winds through designated
• Many mountain bikers are also Niseko in the summer, this is an excellent
heading straight down steep mountains, these green zones around the soon-to-be-developed
skiers and hikers opportunity. You will be in good company
winding tracks allow for a gentle gradient Pavilions hotel and residences on existing
with plenty of rank amateurs (including
featuring bumps, jumps and banked turns, but unmaintained forest tracks. The project • Nature is the primary motive for
this magazine’s editor) struggling towards
allowing riders to cruise down or attack to was funded by the local community and mountain bikers
the finish line!
their desire and skill level, with minimum businesses, and trails are free to the public.
• Most mountain biking takes place
pedalling and braking necessary. away from actual mountains To balance out the weekend and provide
Trail & Track Japan founder Warrick Walsh
• There is no such thing as an average an opportunity for non-competitive
Following a highly successful pilot flow- has seen mountain biking paired successfully
mountain biker members of your party, a fun ride also
trail project at small neighbouring resort with ski resort towns across the world to
takes place circuiting Mt Yotei. The 64km
Asahigaoka in summer 2016, two new trails bolster business in the summer, and is keen • Most mountain bikers don’t compete
Niseko Yotei Circuit Fun Ride is relatively
were commissioned this year: one 3km/475m to see similar success reflected here in
• The MTB “scene” doesn't represent flat with just minor hills and plenty of rest
vertical track on the main slope of the Hirafu Niseko. “We want to make this a place you most riders breaks at different scenic spots, including
ski resort by newly established trail building come to mountain bike,” he says. “Europe,
the Ikeuchi Niseko Nature Center in
company Niseko 9; and the Ginto Trail, New Zealand, Australia, the US – every ski (SOURCE: Allegra Tourismus)
Higashiyama, alongside Hirafu. █
a 1.8km trail on relatively flat terrain at a resort is doing this and Niseko is next.” █
VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018 46 47 VOL. 11 / ISSUE 51 . SUMMER 2018You can also read
