Papillon's Your Genetic Health Book
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Your Papillon’s Genetic Health Book
2 Congratulations! You’re about to discover the story of your dog’s history and genetic health Thank you for choosing OriVet Genetic Health Book to uncover the story of Your Papillon’s genetic health. Congratulations on taking the steps to learn about your dog’s unique nature and to understand his special health needs. Knowing your dog’s unique genetic makeup is more than a novelty - it is a medical necessity. Your dog’s breed is his ancestral genetic signature and carries unique health concerns much the same as his age, sex and lifestyle. We believe that combining this knowledge enables you to provide a lifetime of excellent care and live a happier life with your friend. In this book, you will find detailed information specific to Your Papillon's health. It is important to carefully review your entire report and discuss the results with your veterinarian to gain the most value out of your dog’s Genetic Health Report. Your vet can help you use your report to help better care for your dog. The next time you visit your veterinarian, consider taking this book with you and ask for specific screening that may be available for your dog. Dr. Noam Pik Orivet Managing director
3
Table of contents
Chapter 1: Papillon’s Breed description, history, temperament and behavior, special needs and
requirements. As well as what he may be best suited for.
Chapter 2: Genetic Diseases and inherited disease information Specific to Papillon.
Chapter 3: Caring for Papillon, a lifetime personalised wellness program.
Chapter 4: Training tips, Behaviour & socialization.
Chapter 5: Games you can play with Papillon.
Chapter 6: Nutrition.
Chapter 7: Dental Health.
4
Papillon Traits
Intelligent, Their tendency to
athletic, playful, bark makes them
and energetic good watchdogs.
dogs that seem
to be quick
learners.
Enjoy reward- They can be
based training wary or shy
and as such around strangers
enjoy dog and may
sports such as require careful
agility, tracking, socialisation
herding, to prevent or
musical canine reduce defensive
freestyle, rally aggressive
and competitive tendencies.
obedience.
Ancestral Genetics
5
Ancestral Genetics
The Papillon is named for the butterfly-like appearance of his ears
General Breed
(“papillon” is the French word for butterfly), which are long and
Description feathered, and distinctively and symmetrically coloured. The Papillon is
a toy breed, with a fine-boned, dainty look. When his coat is fully grown
he gives the appearance of being slightly longer than he is tall. The coat
is long, soft and silky, with no undercoat. The ears and legs are well
feathered, the chest has a profuse frill and the tail is plumed and carried
over the back. The papillon is white with patches of colour which may
be any colour except liver, and includes symmetrical colouring over the
front and back of the ears and extending from the ears over and around
the eyes. A blaze of white (a strip of white extending down between
the eyes) to represent the “body of the butterfly” is preferred but is
not essential. The Papillon stands 20 – 28 cm tall (at the shoulder) and
generally weighs between 2.5 – 5 kg.
The Papillon is considered to have originated in France and Belgium,
History and in the non-English speaking countries of Europe is known as the
Continental toy spaniel (or “Epangneul Nain Continental”) as it is listed
with the FCI. The “Papillon” is the name for the erect-eared variety of
ENC, and the “Phalene” for the dropped ear variety. The word “phalene”
means “moth” or “night moth” in French, and the use as the dogs’ name
relates to the moth’s habit of folding its wings at rest. Both the FCI and
the AKC and other English-speaking kennel clubs’ consider the Papillon
and Phalene to be both of the one breed, and they can both be produced
in the same litter.
The Continental toy spaniel dates back as far as the 13th century, as
evidenced by their depiction in artwork from Europe. Originally, these
dogs all had dropped ears, and the erect-eared Papillon did not become
popular until the nineteenth century. The toy spaniel has been portrayed
in many paintings and portraits over the centuries, and was often seen
on the lap of ladies from the French and Spanish courts. Marie Antoinette
and King Louis XIV are amongst some of the famous owners of toy
spaniels. These toy spaniels were bred as companion dogs and lap dogs
for the upper classes. The Papillon was first recognised by the AKC in
1935.
Breed The Papillon is an intelligent, friendly and lively little dog, who
Temperament despite his small stature loves to get outside for a good romp. He
needs to be close to his owner at all times, as he has long been
and Behaviour bred as a true companion dog, and he will not do well if left to
sleep in a kennel outside. He is a proud, spirited little dog who can
generally be taught tricks quite easily. He has quite a high energy
level, and needs more exercise than the average companion breed.
Because he lacks an undercoat, he can be susceptible to cold
weather. He is very playful and affectionate, but may not do well
with small children due to his very small size and susceptibility to
inadvertent injury.
6
Ancestral Genetics
Requirements The Papillon needs a reasonable amount of exercise, and would
prefer a secure yard to be able to run and play in. However, he
and Needs can also be a good apartment dog who will happily run around
madly inside. Either way he will need to get out and about
with a daily walk, so he gets to see new things each day. This
is important for all dogs, to keep them mentally stimulated as
well as to give them sufficient exercise. The Papillon needs to be
with his owner almost continuously to be happy, and this should
be kept in mind if you are not going to be home for long periods
of time each day. You will need to brush and comb the coat of
a Papillon several times a week to keep it in good condition and
free of tangles and knots. However, as the coat does not continue
to grow once it reaches its adult length, it should not require
regular clipping.
Best Suited for The Papillon will suit anyone who is able to share their lives with
him and spend most of their time together with him. He does
require a certain amount of exercise, and is generally not well
suited to small children.
7 Genetic Disease
8
Genetic Disease
Inherited Diseases 1. Luxating patella
Luxating patella refers to a kneecap that can dislocate in and out of the
and Diseases groove that it normally sits in. Medial luxation (dislocation inwards, or
Particularly towards the other leg) is considered heritable, and is usually seen in
relatively young dogs. It occurs more commonly in small breeds of dogs,
Common including the Papillon.
to the Breed Luxating patella is a developmental problem but the degree to which
the patella can move out of the patellar groove tends to increase over
time. The degree of luxation can be graded on a scale of 1 – 4, based on
clinical examination by the veterinarian and on the amount of change to
the knee joint (stifle) on x-ray. Breed registries are available and normal
scores can be given for those tested at 12 months of age or older.
Clinical signs of luxating patella may be hard to detect initially. Dogs may
“skip” a step when running, or “bunny hop” in the back legs. Untreated,
luxating patella will wear away at the bone of the leg on each side of the
patellar groove, and arthritis will develop. This can lead to severe pain
Screening for luxating and lameness as a dog gets older.
patella: In young dogs, surgery is generally recommended to correct the problem
1. Easily detected before bony changes and arthritis sets in. However surgery is less likely
on examination and to be helpful once arthritis is present, and in older dogs’ treatment is
manipulation by generally aimed at managing pain. It is advisable not to breed with
experienced veterinarian animals affected by this condition.
– should check for this in
puppies in a predisposed
breed. 2. Endocardiosis (Mitral Valve Disease)
2. Radiography and Endocardiosis is a heart disease that tends to affect smaller dog breeds,
assessment by radiologist and certain breeds in particular seem to be particularly predisposed. It
for breeding animals: is a disease that generally affects middle aged to older dogs, and the
usually done at 12 – 18 Papillon is predisposed to developing this disease. The prevalence is
months of age. reported at around 5 - 15% during middle age, increasing to 35 - 50%
once over 10 years of age.
The mechanism of inheritance is not known, although the high prevalence
is some breeds suggest a genetic basis, and a polygenic mode of
inheritance is thought to be likely. Endocardiosis affects the valves that lie
within the heart between the atria and ventricles, with the left (mitral)
valve being affected much more commonly than the right (tricuspid)
valve. Both valves may be affected in the same animal.
Deposition of mucopolysaccharides occurs within the valve, which forms
nodules that gradually enlarge and deform the valves, causing them to
leak. This leads to blood being able to flow backwards when the heart
contracts, causing a heart murmur, atrial enlargement and pulmonary
congestion as blood pools in the lungs. The disease is generally a slowly
progressive disease, causing progressive deformity of the valve and
spreading to the tendons that hold the valve leaflets in place. Sudden
deterioration or death can occur in some cases. More commonly dogs
develop congestive heart failure, which usually presents as coughing,
rapid breathing and exercise intolerance, and which may initially be worse
at night, but which gradually becomes more severe as time goes on.
9
Genetic Disease
There is no cure for this condition, which is diagnosed by your vet based
Screening for on clinical examination and character of the heart murmur, as well
endocardiosis: as x-ray findings and echocardiogram (heart ultrasound) showing the
1. Type and thickened, deformed heart valve. Echocardiography can also document
characterisation of heart the severity of secondary changes to the heart itself (e.g. how severe is
murmur on auscultation – the atrial enlargement, is the heart muscle still working well etc). Based
part of yearly check-up. on these findings medication to manage the condition is prescribed, and
2. Echocardiography for this will be daily, life-long medication to alleviate the signs caused by the
any dog with a murmur heart disease.
documented at annual
check-up. 3. Transient Juvenile Hypoglycaemia
Hypoglycaemia refers to having a low blood sugar level, and is relatively
common in very small dogs (toy breeds such as the Papillon) because
they have less capacity to store energy due to their very small muscle
mass. The liver and muscle are the body’s main areas of glycogen
storage, where glucose is mobilised from when it is needed. This
condition occurs commonly in young animals, up to around 12 months of
age, if they go too long without eating. This condition is commonly seen
in young animals because they also have less fat reserves to draw on
than adult animals when their blood sugar levels start to drop, and their
muscles are not fully developed as puppies.
Note that in varieties of toy breeds marketed as “miniature” or “teacup”
this condition can occur anytime during the life of the animal due to their
extremely small size and very low muscle mass. In addition, stress, cold
or illness (especially if the dog stops eating or if their tummy is upset) can
also bring on an episode of hypoglycaemia.
Signs of low blood glucose range from mild to fatal depending on how
low the blood glucose level is, and how quickly it develops. Mild signs
include weakness or sleepiness, incoordination and shivering, increasing
to disorientation and tremoring as glucose levels drop further, and the
most severe signs include seizures, coma and then death.
Young puppies should be fed every few hours, and owners of young
toy breed dogs should ensure that they always have a digestible sugar
substance on hand in case of a hypoglycaemic episode. Some common
examples are honey, corn syrup, jam (not the 100% fruit types) and table
sugar. These need to be rubbed on the gums or roof of the mouth. If
Screening for transient your dog is seizuring get him to your vet – do not injure yourself trying
juvenile hypoglycaemia: to treat him yourself! Your dog will need to eat a more substantial
There is no screening meal after this to provide ongoing energy, and will need to see your
available for this disease, veterinarian as soon as possible once you have given an initial meal of
sugary food (e.g. tinned/wet food).
all animals susceptible
due to their small size.
4. Cataract (Cloudiness of the Lens of the Eye)
Most cases of cataract in dogs are of an inherited form. This disease
causes cloudiness in the lens of the eye. This cloudiness may be located
in the centre of the lens, or towards the front or the back of the lens.
Inherited cataract is almost always bilateral (that is, in both eyes).
Cataract causes initial blurriness of vision, and as it gets worse can lead to
blindness.
10
Genetic Disease
The disease can become apparent over a wide range of ages, ranging
from when the puppy first opens its eyes to over 8 years of age. Cataracts
that develop at or around birth are termed congenital cataract. Those
that develop in dogs under 2 years of age are called juvenile cataract,
while those developing in dogs between 2-8 years are termed adult
onset cataract. Those that develop in older dogs are generally not of an
inherited nature.
The Papillon is prone to developing juvenile cataract as well as adult
onset cataracts. Inherited cataracts may be seen over a wide age range
in this breed, from 6 months up to 8 years of age. Cataract is diagnosed
by eye exam once it is present in the lens, and by ruling out other causes.
Most cataracts can be treated surgically, and the earlier this is performed
the better the prognosis is, and the less chance there is for complications.
An intraocular replacement lens is often placed, which helps improve
Cataract Screening: post-surgical vision.
1. Eye examination
by veterinary Cataract should not be confused with the normal aging change of the lens
ophthalmologist; of the eye called sclerosis – this is often visible as a white cloudiness in
recommended as part of
puppy eye exam, then older dogs’ eyes. Often this can be confused with cataract by dog owners,
annually from 1 year of but sclerosis of the lens does NOT cause loss of vision.
age.
5. Tracheal Collapse
This is a condition that is most commonly seen in small and toy breeds,
such as the Papillon, and is often accompanied by other disease, such as
upper airway obstruction (e.g. brachycephalic syndrome), chronic airway
inflammation, or pulmonary hypertension. The trachea is supported by a
Screening for tracheal series of cartilage rings but with tracheal collapse the cartilage of these
collapse: rings becomes softened and the rings can be distorted. The changes
in pressure within the trachea associated with breathing in and out are
1. Auscultation over the enough to cause the tracheal rings to collapse down.
trachea and of the chest
for sounds associated The result is that the main airway collapses during breathing, and this
with bronchial &/or narrowing means that breathing becomes obstructed and it is difficult for
bronchiolar collapse, and the dog to move enough air for effective respiration. Commonly this will
associated inflammation appear as rapid or difficult breathing, weakness and exercise intolerance.
or excessive tracheal A dry, honking cough is very common (sometimes called a “goose honk”
membrane movement. cough). Sometimes affected dogs suffer fainting due to a lack of oxygen
Include tracheal palpation. getting into the blood and to the brain. The condition is worsened by
Perform thorough heat, excitement and exercise, as well as obesity.
examination at each Some researchers believe that there is an inherited or genetic tendency
annual veterinary check. for the cartilage rings to soften and be prone to collapse, but this has yet
2. Radiography of to be proven. Animals may be affected at different ages, from less than
entire tracheal length one year in severe cases to middle or old age more commonly. Diagnosis
during inspiration and can be made on x-ray and further imaging studies (bronchoscopy,
expiration – perform fluoroscopy etc) and generally the condition is managed by addressing
if any abnormality on associated and contributing conditions, and by managing clinical signs. In
examination/auscultation. severe cases of cervical tracheal collapse, surgical treatment with stent
Consider bronchoscopy or placement to hold the tracheal rings open has been undertaken as a last
other imaging methods resort.
for conformation.11
Genetic Disease
6. Epilepsy (Idiopathic, Primary or Inherited Seizures)
Epilepsy is a disease characterised by seizures, and is diagnosed by ruling
out all possible reasons or causes for seizures – causes such as disease or
trauma to the brain, metabolic disease (such as low levels of glucose or
calcium in the blood), or exposure to toxins. When no cause for seizures
is present, this is called primary or idiopathic seizures - or epilepsy - and
is generally accepted to have a genetic basis, although the mechanism by
which it is inherited is not yet understood.
Epilepsy generally presents between 1.5 and 3 years of age, although it
may be seen between 6 months and 5 years. Dogs whose seizures begin
at less than 2 years of age are more likely to have severe disease that is
difficult to control.
Seizures are almost always generalised, or “grand mal” type, and will
begin initially as a single episode (as opposed to clusters of seizures or
continuous seizuring, known as “status epilepticus”). Also called “tonic-
clonic” seizures, there is a period where the dog goes stiff and falls (if
standing), followed by a variable period of repeated muscle contractions
(jaw chomping, legs jerking). Salivation occurs and loss of bladder and/
or bowel control may also occur. The seizure will last up to a minute or
two, followed by a variable recovery period.
Epilepsy cannot be cured, and a dog will continue to suffer seizures for
the rest of its life. Seizures tend to occur more and more frequently if the
condition is left untreated, and can be fatal in severe cases. Treatment
Screening for epilepsy: is with anti-seizure medication (anticonvulsants), and aims to reduce the
No routine screening occurrence and severity of seizures.
available.
7. Generalised Progressive Retinal Atrophy
This is a collection of several inherited diseases affecting the retina
that cause blindness. Each breed exhibits a specific age of onset and
pattern of inheritance, and the actual mechanism by which the retina
loses function can vary. The result of almost all types of PRA is similar
– generally an initial night blindness, with a slow deterioration of vision
until the dog is completely blind. The age at which the dog becomes fully
blind also varies depending on the breed. Affected eyes are not painful,
unless complicated by a secondary problem, such as cataract or uveitis
(inflammation due to a leaking cataract).
Progressive retinal atrophy (PRA) has been classified in several different
ways. The simplest of these is by age of onset. Early onset PRA occurs
when the affected dog is night blind from birth, and generally is
completely blind between 1 – 5 years of age. Late onset PRA is where the
dog is night blind at some time over 1 year of age, and full blindness will
occur at a somewhat later stage in life.
Another is by the type of genetic abnormality causing the PRA. For many
types of PRA in many breeds a DNA test is now available to allow for easy
screening for the disease and hence aid in programs for eradication of the
disease by eliminating affected animals from breeding programs.
Cone-rod degeneration due to a mutation at CORD1 is an autosomal
recessive form of PRA that occurs in the Papillon (and Phalene). There
is a DNA test for this type of PRA now available for this breed. Modifier
genes are also thought to affect when the disease becomes apparent12
Genetic Disease
(age of onset of clinical signs), and in the Papillon this is considered a late
onset form of PRA, and is generally apparent at around 5 – 6 years of age.
Screening for PRA: DNA tests are not yet available for all affected breeds. Alternate
1. DNA test should be methods of diagnosis are examination of the retina by a veterinary
carried out in breeding ophthalmologist, and electroretinography (ERG). These are generally
animals prior to entering specialist procedures, and in some breeds with late onset PRA, serial eye
breeding (e.g. before 1 examinations may be required before the signs of retinal degeneration
year of age) become apparent. ERG is a very sensitive method of detecting loss of
photoreceptor function, and can be a very good screening test for puppies
2. Direct retinal that may have an early onset form of PRA.
examination by veterinary
ophthalmologist – Dogs generally adapt quite well to blindness - especially when it develops
recommend annually. gradually - as long as their surroundings remain familiar (e.g. furniture
3. Offer DNA test to does not get rearranged, they do not move house etc). They are best
owners of puppies if not kept on a lead outside the yard, and care should be taken not to startle
performed by breeder them. Balls containing bells can be used as toys for mental stimulation.
prior to sale.
8. Legg-Calve-Perthes Disease (Avascular Necrosis of the Femoral Head)
This is a condition that affects the hip joint, usually only in one leg,
and is thought to be a recessively inherited condition with incomplete
penetrance. The hip joint is a ball and socket joint, and the head of
the femur bone is the ball part of the joint. With this disease there
is a decrease in the supply of blood to the femoral head at around 3
months of age. This causes part of the bone to die, and it then becomes
malformed as the rest of the bone continues growing. The overlying
cartilage that lines the surfaces of the hip joint become cracked and
deformed as well, and this causes pain, and leads to the development of
arthritis in the joint.
Dogs usually will start to show pain and lameness at approximately
Screening for avascular 6 months of age. This is not a common condition, but it is usually a
necrosis of the femoral progressive lameness that can lead to severe pain and an inability to put
head: any weight on the affected leg. It is generally diagnosed on x-ray, and
Screening is not practical, in small breeds can be treated with good results by surgically removing
as signs appear shortly the head of the femur. This surgery has a high success rate as long as
after radiographic changes rehabilitation is carried out following surgery.
become apparent.
9. Von Willebrand’s Disease (type I)
Von Willebrand’s disease is the most common inherited bleeding disorder
in dogs and occurs when there is a lack of functional von Willebrand
factor. Von Willebrand factor is needed for the normal adhesion of
platelets, and therefore clotting of blood. There are 3 types of von
Willebrand’s disease, and type 1 von Willebrand’s disease is the most
common. This type is where there is an overall lack of structurally normal
von Willebrand factor. It has been reported in over 60 breeds, including
the Papillon.
Not all pups are affected equally when they have von Willebrand’s
disease, as the decrease in amount of von Willebrand factor can vary
quite a lot. The genetic abnormality has been described as autosomal
dominant with incomplete penetrance, which leads to the high variability
in expression. Different mutations have been reported. Some breeds are
affected from birth, while others may not be affected until adulthood, or
even middle age. DNA tests are available for some breeds, including the13
Genetic Disease
Papillon, but some dogs that test “positive” may have severe disease,
Screening for von while others may never develop any bleeding tendency.
Willebrand’s disease: Signs of von Willebrand’s disease are generally those of abnormal
1. DNA testing of bleeding or prolonged periods of bleeding. If undiagnosed, affected dogs
all breeding animals can suffer life-threatening haemorrhage at times of routine surgery or
performed prior to after a traumatic event. Treatment can often be required with blood or
breeding – e.g. at 1 year plasma transfusions.
of age. It is generally recommended to test for this disease (or at least test
2. Recommend von bleeding times) prior to routine surgery in breeds with a high incidence of
Willebrand factor levels the disease and have appropriate transfusion products available in case of
measured prior to surgery a bleeding episode.
(e.g. desexing).
10. Congenital Portosystemic Shunts
This is a condition where the blood vessels that run from the
gastrointestinal tract (intestine) to the liver have developed abnormally,
and the liver is bypassed to a varying degree. Blood from the gut
runs directly into the central circulation that flows to the heart, and
this bypasses the detoxifying effect that the liver normally carries
out. The liver is also responsible for taking nutrients from this blood
and metabolising them into products that the body needs. Congenital
portosystemic shunts (i.e. developmental abnormalities from birth) are
thought to be hereditary to some degree, as distinct breed predilections
are seen, including for the Papillon.
Signs can vary from small, poorly grown pups to non-specific
gastrointestinal signs (such as vomiting and diarrhoea). Urinary tract
signs due to the presence of ammonium biurate crystals may also occur,
and in severe cases neurologic signs develop due to a build up of toxins in
the blood. Dogs may then seem blind, may circle, head press or seizure.
Dogs with congenital portosystemic shunts are usually diagnosed before
the age of 2 years, with many being picked up as puppies. However,
milder shunts may not be picked up until later in life.
Diagnosis is usually by blood tests, including fasting and post-prandial
Screening for congenital (post-meal) bile acids. Further tests are available if required. Shunts
portosystemic shunting: may be inside or outside the body of the liver, and the location of the
1. Paired bile acid testing; shunt also needs to be determined if surgical correction of the shunt is
to be attempted. This can be done via a number of imaging techniques.
can perform at 8 weeks Shunts located within the liver tend to be more common in large breeds,
in breeds where there while shunts outside of the liver are more generally more common in
is a high prevalence. In small breeds.
other predisposed breeds
consider screening any Most shunts can be corrected surgically, and if surgery is uncomplicated
undergrown pups or pups dogs will do well without requiring further medication or dietary
with any suggestive signs. management. Medical treatment with medications, antibiotics and
2. Ultrasound dietary modification are largely aimed at reducing the toxin load within
examination in any animal the blood, to reduce/prevent hepatic encephalopathy (neurologic signs
with abnormal hepatic such as seizures).
function testing.14
Genetic Disease
These conditions are reported to have a breed predilection in the Papillon,
Other Conditions although they are less common than those mentioned earlier, or have
Which Are Less less of an impact on the animal when they occur. Hence they are not
Common or Less covered in detail in this article, however further information can be
found by clicking on any diseases that are highlighted. This list is not a
Devastating In the comprehensive list of all diseases the Papillon may be prone to.
Breed
Corneal dystrophy
Follicular dysplasia
Inherited deafness
Persistent pupillary membranes
Hydrocephalus
Vitreous degeneration
Urolithiasis
Hypothyroidism
Reverse sneezing
Entropion15
Caring for your Papillon
Caring for your So now you know a little bit about your Papillon. And of course you
have chosen the perfect one for you! So how do you sort through all the
Papillon (sometimes contradictory) information about caring for your new puppy?
There are several aspects of caring for your new dog that we would like to
cover in a little detail. Firstly, we will summarise the ages that your puppy
will need to visit the vet for general and routine visits, in order to provide
him with the best preventative and protective medicine, in order to help
him have the healthiest and happiest life possible.
Secondly, did you know that the number one cause of dogs being
euthanised is behavioural problems? This results in more deaths than
any single disease or cause of injury in any dog breed! So we will also
cover some basics in socialising your puppy, and how to avoid some
of the common causes of behaviour problems in dogs. No matter how
perfect the breed (or line) you have chosen, raising a puppy is a huge
commitment, and the biggest factor determining a puppy’s behaviour and
temperament as an adult is the socialisation and training that he receives
– and this is all up to you!
Nutrition is another topic that can seem overwhelming initially, and many
people will give you different advice. Mostly this will be well meaning,
but rarely will it be based on scientific evidence. Occasionally it can be
downright wrong. So we will try to present an overview of how to go
about choosing the right diet for your puppy, based on scientific evidence.
Also remember that your veterinarian knows your individual puppy’s
needs and can provide you will individual advice that suits his specific
requirements as he grows and changes.16
Caring for your Papillon
Recommended schedule
for taking your Papillon to see your vet
AGE What The Vet Does Diseases Tested For Other Things Done At This Visit
6-8 weeks Full examination and treat for Consider stool exam for parasites as needed. Weigh.
parasites. Discuss feeding and care of
Vaccination – 1st puppy Consider paired bile acids if indicated puppy at home.
vaccinations given Exclude T. J Hypoglacaemia
Check for heart murmurs.
Puppy Eye Exam
10-12 weeks Full examination, check for Check for heart murmurs. Weigh and assess growth rate.
parasites and treat as needed. Discuss ongoing feeding.
2nd puppy vaccination given. Puppy Eye Exam – check for developmental Arrange puppy school/ puppy
Begin heartworm, flea and eye disease pre-school classes.
internal parasite prevention Start teeth cleaning.
program as indicated.
14-16 weeks Full examination, check for Check for heart murmurs – investigate fully Weigh and assess growth rate.
parasites and treat as needed. any murmur that is still present. Discuss ongoing feeding.
3rd puppy vaccination given. Prepare for desexing surgery
Re-Check eyes – discuss blood screen, DNA
testing
4-6 months Full examination. Consider pre-anaesthetic blood test, include Weigh and assess growth rate.
Desexing surgery under Clotting and Bile Acid if indicated Arrange to start obedience
general anaesthesia (unless training when stitches out
breeding animal). Joint examination for luxating patellas, (after 2+ weeks)
Examine teeth fully. consider corrective surgery if indicated
1 year Full examination Yearly eye examination Weigh, assess size and
1st booster vaccination growth rate. Assess diet and
nutrition.
Assess heartworm/flea/ Discuss ongoing training &
parasite prevention program. exercise requirements.
2 years – repeat Annual full examination. Yearly eye examination Weigh. Assess body condition
annually until 6 Consider vaccination – core and adult nutrition program.
years vaccination generally Routine health Discuss ongoing exercise and
recommended every 3 years, training requirements.
but discuss with vet for Detailed dental examination
your dog’s individual needs.
Non-core vaccine (eg kennel Heart check
cough) still required annually
if to be given.
6-8.5 years Annual full examination. Yearly eye examination Weigh and assess body
and annually Continue with individualised condition, assess nutrition
thereafter vaccination program as Consider routine health check including blood requirements.
discussed with your vet. work, urinalysis & Thyroid Screen Assess joints and gait for
possible arthritic change
Detailed dental examination and assess exercise program
needs.
Heart check
8.5 years Full examination. Senior health check Weigh and assess body
and annually condition, assess nutrition
thereafter Yearly eye examination requirements.
Assess movement and mental
Annual blood work, urinalysis & Stool status, discuss any changes –
examination & Thyroid Screen possible early onset dementia
etc.
Detailed dental examination
Heart Screen
Consider Cancer Screen
The colours in the table above:
Blue – refers to the time when your dog is a puppy (a true child!)
Green – this time approximates your dog’s adolescent period
Red – this is when your dog is an adult
Purple – this is when your dog is a senior (an “aged” adult)17 Caring for your Papillon Checked √ Details Note there can be some overlap in the ages at which your dog moves through the different life stages, just as there is for people. These coloured stages are a guide only.
18
Behaviour & Training19
Behaviour & Training
Dogs are very social animals, and your puppy needs to be indoors with
Behaviour,
the family from the start. There is no such thing as a “good outdoor
Training and dog”. Puppies need to learn how to behave around different animals and
Socialisation people from a young age. This is called socialisation, and it is essential to
prevent your puppy growing up to have problems with nervousness and
aggression.
A puppy needs to be with his mum and littermates until he is 8 weeks
old, while he learns from them how to get along with other dogs. Note
that in many states of Australia it is illegal to sell or give away a puppy
that is younger than 8 weeks of age. Once your puppy comes home you
can start to train and socialise him straight away. You should always be
gentle and positive with him – you should never punish or scare your pup.
Anything that spooks your pup, especially between 8-12 weeks of age
(his “vulnerable” period) can become a lifelong phobia. Yelling and hitting
is never effective with any dog. Expose your puppy to all the things he
will encounter as an adult – different people, dogs, sights, and sounds.
Introduce new experiences gradually, and in a non-threatening manner.
Ensure he has lots of his own toys that he can chew on.
Although your puppy cannot venture out into the big wide world until
he has had all his puppy vaccinations, you can invite different types of
people over for “puppy parties”, and enrol in puppy preschool, which is
often run through your local vet clinic. These classes are a great way for
him to meet and play with other puppies in a social setting. Playing and
wrestling with other puppies is really important because it teaches him
not to bite later in life (through learning “bite inhibition”).
Your puppy needs to get used to all the different noises that happen
around the house and outside, as well as being grabbed by the collar
(see below), having his nails trimmed, being groomed, having his teeth
cleaned, having people around his food and so on. This will prevent these
situations from becoming issues for him when he is older.
Teaching your pup to be a dog-friendly, people-friendly dog is your most
important job. It keeps people safe, and it keeps him safe, and he will be
more likely to be a happy and sociable dog.20
Behaviour & Training
It is important for the The Gotcha Game
safety of your dog that This game is designed to teach your puppy to accept and enjoy being
he learns to accept being grabbed by the collar, so that if it becomes necessary in an emergency
grabbed by the collar you should not have trouble performing it.
Start with your pup inside on a lead, at mealtime.
in times of emergency
(eg if the door/gate is
Gently hold his collar for around a minute, then say “Gotcha!” and follow
accidentally left open, by giving him a piece of his food.
or he is about to run out
into traffic etc). Practice this at least 25 times a day, always with a treat at the end.
All too often dogs learn
to associate a collar Gradually work up to a slightly firmer grab of the collar. The aim is to
grab with a negative build up over time to the type of collar grab you might need to make
experience, such as in an emergency situation. Interrupt play and other activities during the
being put outside after day to practice this game, so that your pup learns to accept this in more
play, or being dragged lifelike situations.
to a site of a misdeed for
punishment. As important as socialisation for your puppy is training. Early training is
key, as it provides mental stimulation, hones impulse control and helps
prevent many behaviour problems associated with boredom, stress and
inconsistent communication.
Enrol in obedience classes will your puppy. Ensure that the trainer uses
positive reinforcement techniques. You can usually find a good trainer in
your area by word of mouth or through you local vet clinic. Make sure
you check out a session first, and see if the dogs and owners seem to be
enjoying the lessons, and are engaged with the trainer/s. (Not just sitting
around waiting while one person interacts with the trainer at a time.)
Obedience classes with teach both you and your puppy methods of
good communication, while helping to build a strong bond between
you. They also provide more opportunity for good socialisation. Practice
what you learn at home as much as possible, even after the classes are
finished. Training should be a lifelong pursuit. If the whole family can
attend classes together you will see the best results, as consistency in
communication with your puppy is key.
Remember to intersperse training times with plenty of play – your puppy
can start learning from as soon as you bring him home, but he may have
a short concentration span at first, and you want to make his learning as
much fun as possible!
Your puppy should not run and jump on hard surfaces (such as concrete)
the way adult dogs can. Growing bones are not as strong as adult ones,
and are more prone to injury. Avoid high impact exercise for growing
bodies.21
Behaviour & Training
Adolescence
Adolescence is a critical time, when your dog’s behaviour can go through
large changes, not always for the better! It is important to continue
working with your dog through this period until his behaviour stabilises
into adulthood, usually around 2 – 3 years of age. It remains vital
that the adolescent dog is socialised well, both outside and inside the
home. Because bite inhibition may decrease, it is important to keep
handfeeding, cleaning your dog’s teeth, and continuing to allow him to
play and wrestle with other dogs.
Training should be maintained to ensure that basic manners and
household behaviour do not deteriorate – do not take earlier good
behaviour as a puppy for granted. He is now developing adult doggy
interests, which may provide a great distraction to training! Behaviour
can deteriorate markedly and quickly during this time if your adolescent
dog does not get out and socialise regularly and continue to meet new
people, new dogs and get to see new places and experiences.
Note that during adolescence, especially in males, it is common for
posturing to occur around other dogs – eg staring, snarling, growling,
snapping and maybe even fighting. Often this can mean the end of a
dog’s socialisation. However, this is normal adolescent dog behaviour,
generally reflecting a lack of self confidence. This behaviour will
generally go away with continued socialisation as a dog develops
confidence and no longer feels the need to prove themselves.
There is a need to assess any fighting behaviour as objectively as possible
– and to react appropriately when your dog fights. Your dog may be
a real pain for a period of time, but this does not necessarily mean he
is dangerous! Fighting is normal behaviour in dogs, however causing
another dog harm is not. Bite inhibition should remain intact, and the
result of a fight should only be saliva around the head and neck. It is rare
for a dog to injure another dog in a fight at this age. Injury, especially
to the legs or belly, is an indicator of a serious problem, and should be
addressed with your vet and/or behaviourist immediately.22
Games23
Games
Variety is the spice of life, and just like us, puppies and dogs will get
Doggy Games
bored doing the same thing day in day out. You will soon learn that there
are certain types of games that your dog enjoys more than others – often
this will relate to his breed, and what “type” of dog he is. For example,
terriers often love to dig, while collies and working dogs will run all day!
The Papillon is an Athlete, with certain attributes of Smart Cookie as
well.
You will also get to know which games your dog likes to play
See if you recognise your dog here:
The Athlete – dogs with endless energy to burn – will run all day.
Often dogs from herding or hunting breeds.
The Ball Hog – obsessed with fetching and chasing just about anything.
Often come from breeds that work with their mouth, such as retrievers
and gun dogs.
The Nose Dog – loves nothing more than following his nose around and
around.
Often from breeds used to track scent, such as hounds, beagles.
The Couch Potato – master of the “do we have to?” look, just love
sitting in front of the fire.
Examples include greyhounds, basset hounds, and bulldog.
The Diggy Dog – just loves to dig and dig.
Often also like to chase small animals; breeds such as terriers, or the
dachshund.
The Smart Cookie – bored easily and loves to learn new things.
Often from a breed used to performing work, such as herding
livestock.
In general, dogs should have a morning and evening exercise session,
with at least one session being dedicated to aerobic exercise. This is
best performed in a fenced (safe) off lead area and can include running
or playing with other dogs, swimming, playing fetch etc. If there is no
safe area where your dog can be off lead, running beside a jogger or
cycler are also good aerobic exercises for dogs. (But as mentioned earlier,
not for puppies!) Always ensure your dog is safe from traffic if biking or
rollerblading with him.
You can even train a dog to run on a treadmill if he is confined to an
apartment or small house. Aerobic exercise releases endorphins, which
will have health benefits for your dog as well as have a calming effect on
his behaviour.24
Games
The Athlete * Loves high energy games, running and always looking for new things
to do.
* May be from a breed that was originally bred for high-energy
jobs, such as hunting or herding. Examples include Vizslas, German
Shorthaired Pointers, Australian Shepherds.
Good Activities:
Frisbee
Lets your dog run to his heart’s content. Ensure that you get a
Frisbee designed just for dogs, with padded edges that will not injure
his mouth. You can even join a club or compete with other dogs!
Frisbee dog:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qp9OcGPufEc&feature=related
Agility
This combines athletic activity with obedience work, and is ideal for
intelligent athletes. Dogs follow courses that go over, under, around
and through various obstacles, and can work up to competition level
depending on your level of motivation. Many clubs are available to
help you get started and practice at agility.
Dog Agility:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dR7mZ5jRAH8&feature=related
Flyball
This activity combines a
hurdle race with retrieving
a ball – see below for a
great Aussie example:
Freestyle
This is basically dancing
with your dog! This is
an organised sport, and
competitions are held all
over the world, or you can
keep it between you and
your dog if you prefer...
Freestyle demonstration:
Canicross
This is basically running cross country with your dog! Definitely for
the runners out there.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ns_US6jrs425
Games
Bikejoring
This is a fun way to enjoy time with your active dog – all you need is
a bike and a harness that attaches your dog to your bike! Your dog
basically pulls you along. See the example below:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IiC3Sbrrqf4
Dock Jumping
This is a competition event where dogs jump from a dock and the
aim is to see which dog can jump the furthermost. Great for dogs
that love to swim!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d0yqKpH2D8c
Other Good Games:
Doggy Soccer
This game is just what it sounds like. Use a large ball and roll it
gently towards your dog. Encourage him to “get it!” and praise him
when he paws or noses it. He will soon get the hang of it!
Dog Park
Playing with doggy mates at the dog park will give him a great work
out. You can also take your Frisbee, and run or bike to the park to
incorporate other work outs into the fun!
Dog Beach
For a variation on the theme during warm weather, a trip to
your local dog beach (or river, pond etc) can also be loads of fun.
Remember to take a floating throw toy, and always watch your dog
doesn’t get out of his depth!
The Ball Hog * Loves fetching and chewing on toys. May be prone to nipping, chewing
and play biting.
* Generally from a breed that works with his mouth, such as a retriever.
Examples include Golden Retrievers, Labradors, Border Collies, English
Springer Spaniels.26
Games
Frisbee
Great for athletic mouthy dogs. Ensure that you get a Frisbee designed
just for dogs, with padded edges that will not injure his mouth. You can
even join a club or compete with other dogs!
Frisbee dog:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qp9OcGPufEc&feature=related
Flyball
This activity combines a hurdle race with retrieving a ball – see below for
a great Aussie example:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yXeqzwz75Is&feature=related
Belly Ball
This is a game that combines various sports such as basketball, soccer and
rugby. It uses a large ball (about the size of a soccer ball) and the aim is
for the people (usually played with 2 -3 humans) to score by putting the
ball under the dog’s belly and through the legs. The dog aims to stop
this by getting the ball before it goes through the legs. Hectic and fun!
designed for the larger sized ball hog! Or you can try with a small ball.
Belly Ball:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5dNO733sWks&feature=related
Fetch
A classic favourite and a great way for your dog to get all the exercise he
needs without you having to do too much running yourself. Make sure
you have an appropriate fetch toy for your dog that will not injure his
mouth or get stuck in his throat – avoid sticks and small balls such
as tennis balls for most dogs, as these can lodge behind the
jaw and block the dog’s airway. Balls on a rope, rope
toys, specific throw toys and Frisbees are all fine.
Water fetch. Ball dogs usually love to swim, so
taking your game of fetch to the water is often a fun
variation for warmer weather. Be careful that your
dog doesn’t get out of his depth and ensure you
have a throw toy that floats!
Provide your dog with a box of chew toys that
he can carry around and gnaw on – this will be
much appreciated!27
Games
The Nose Dog * Loves to follow his nose, and will follow a trail anywhere!
* May come from a breed originally used as a tracker, such as beagles
and other hounds. Examples include Beagles, Bloodhounds, black and tan
Coonhounds.
Good Activities
Training as a Search and Rescue Dog
A huge commitment, but very rewarding if you have the time and energy
to dedicate to it. Certainly investigate further before starting out on this
one – generally this is a career path, not a hobby.
SAR training:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YhUnNI2g-1w&feature=related
Contact your local organisation for training opportunities
Australia: www.sarda.net.au
USA: http://www.nasar.org/page/34/Canine-Search-and-Rescue
UK: http://www.sardaengland.org.uk/
Tracking trials
This involves following a scent trail that is laid for dogs to follow, in
the basic format of a “missing person” and things that the person has
“dropped” along the way. A shortened and more accessible form of
search and rescue training.
For more information check your local kennel club. For an introduction
click below:
http://www.akc.org/events/tracking/getting_started.cfm
Fun stuff to do:
You can also create your own tracking trail, by asking your dog to sit-stay,
then walking through long grass and leaving a treat at the end of the trail.
Retrace your steps to your dog and release him to find the treat!
Hide treats throughout the yard, and then let your dog sniff them out.
Meals can be fun times by putting your dog’s bowl in a new spot each
day and letting him sniff it out, with a widely spaced trail of kibble
leading to the bowl. Good for bigger yards especially.28
Games
The Couch Potato * Generally happy to settle back down after going for a walk, and not
particularly keen on a long run to the park
* Common Couch Potatoes include Greyhounds, Basset Hounds and
Wolfhounds.
Good Activities & Games:
Walking
Either a number of short walks or long leisurely walks - whatever your
dog prefers. Try to visit new places where there will be new smells and
sights to see regularly and often.
A good way for the Couch Potato to get out and about is to accompany
you when you are out and about town on errands, or maybe visiting
with friends at a cafe. Take a portable water bowl with you and he can
socialise while you do!
Hide and Seek with a toy such as a Kong containing treats can be fun
for your dog. Start off with fairly easy “finds” and your dog will learn to
go look for his treat. Working for food inside a Kong or other similarly
designed toy gives your dog mental stimulation as well.
The Diggy Dog * Really really loves to dig! Generally likes to chase other small animals.
* Most often from terrier or dachshund breeds.
Good Activities:
Earthdog Trials
Courses designed to let these dogs do what they love best – run along
“underground” tunnels in search of their prey (for example a rat). Usually
dogs start with training tunnels made out of modular wooden boxes, then
move up to buried tunnels and longer, more challenging courses. Contact
your local breed club or kennel club for more information.
Earthdog demonstration:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NGbC379hVIQ&feature=related
Good Games:
Digging Box
Create a digging area in the yard such as a sandbox or other designated
area that is just for your dog. Get your dog to sit-stay, then bury his toys
or a treat. Let him loose to dig them up! As he gets better at the game,
bury treasure for him when he’s not there to see it. Having his own
digging box will give your dog a place to dig that is just for him, and help
prevent destruction of the rest of your garden too.29
Games
The Smart Cookie * Very intelligent dog, very easy to train and becomes bored easily –
which may then lead to destructive behaviour such as chewing.
* Often will come from a breed with a working background, for
example herding livestock. Examples include German Shepherd Dog,
Border Collie, Australian Shepherd.
Good Activities:
Agility
This combines athletic activity with obedience work, and is ideal for
intelligent athletes. Dogs follow courses that go over, under, around
and through various obstacles, and can work up to competition level
depending on your level of motivation. Many clubs are available to
help you get started and practice at agility.
Dog Agility: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjcWIyHpUIk
Obedience training
Great for your dog whether it is at home, in a small local group or at
competition level. Gives him the mental stimulation he craves.
Obedience competition:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b8Ihl7ABQuQ&feature=related
Sheep Dog Trials
In this activity your dog gets to pit his skills against a small flock
of sheep and has to herd them through a gate. Very well known
pastime for Border Collies in Australia, this is run worldwide, and
you don’t need a farm to practice! Contact your local (state) working
sheep dog association for information on your nearest club and
information on how to get started. An activity designed specifically
for sheep herding breeds.
Sheep dog trials:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qojXfXUdG0g&feature=related
Good Games
Teach your dog to do a job. You need to know how to train your dog,
and then pick a job – it doesn’t matter what it is. Your dog will enjoy
feeling useful, and can learn to put away his toys, fetching the paper,
or putting away the socks! See link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dXFmYZiTKMU
Use interactive toys that get your dog to use his brain to get to the
treat hidden inside.
Hide and Seek
Play hide and seek with toys, treats or yourself. Initially start by
getting your dog to sit-stay, then hide a treat where he can see
(eg behind the bed, shrub etc) then let him loose to go find it.
Eventually you can work up to hiding his treats when he is not there.30
Nutrition31
Nutrition
Papillon Nutrition General Nutritional Advice for Puppies and Dogs
Good nutrition is essential for your dog to have a healthy, happy life, and
for Puppies what your dog eats will affect every aspect of his life. It is critical that
and Adults he has the correct amounts of energy, protein, fatty acids, carbohydrates
and trace minerals and nutrients for growth as well as maintenance of
a healthy body and brain. Nutrition is vital to a dog’s ability to think
clearly, as thinking requires mental energy and the correct amino acid
balance for the maintenance of normal brain chemistry.
Poor nutrition, e.g. poor quality protein in the diet, or a diet that is
not balanced can lead to behaviour problems, as the dog cannot focus
properly and will “act out” because he does not understand what you are
trying to teach him. It can lead to increased stress levels and reduced
immune system function, making the dog more vulnerable to toxins
and the various infectious agents that he is exposed to in everyday life.
Overall this leads to a reduced lifespan and a reduction in his quality of
life, due to an increase in illness and general lack of wellbeing. So, how
do you know if your dog’s diet is good or bad?
There are several options when feeding your dog – generally the easiest
in terms of ensuring a good quality and well balanced diet is to buy a
high quality commercial dog food. We shall discuss what makes a dog
food “good quality” shortly.
More and more people, including some vets, are now advocating raw
food diets, or “natural” diets for dogs. There are some drawbacks
to this approach. Firstly, raw meats can transmit parasites (such as
toxoplasmosis) and bacteria that can make your dog very ill, such as
Salmonella, E.coli and Enterobacter. Raw meat can spoil very quickly,
especially in warmer weather, and can generally not be stored for later
feeding. Commercial raw meats (“pet meat” or “pet mince”) generally
have preservatives added, some of which can be dangerous. Be aware
that in many countries the pet meat industry is less regulated than the
human meat industry, and a lot of preservatives may be added to meat,
some of which can make the meat look red when in fact it is starting
to spoil. Most veterinary nutritionists recommend that all meat fed to
animals should be well cooked, the same as if it were being fed to
people.
Secondly, it can be very difficult when home preparing meals to ensure
that the meal is well balanced with all the nutrients your dog requires, in
a form that will be easily digestible and absorbed by your dog’s digestive
system and that will be palatable to your dog. Vitamins and minerals
must be present not only in the correct amounts, but in the correct ratio
in respect to one another, otherwise deficiencies can occur.32
Nutrition
Remember that commercial pet foods are quality tested to ensure that
they are fully balanced to meet your dog’s requirements, and many
are available that are of excellent quality. With a little effort you can
generally find a dog food of very high quality if you know what to look
for, and know what to avoid. Always look for a diet that is accredited
by the regulator in your country. So how do you go about finding a fully
balanced, good quality commercial dog food?
The first thing to remember is that ingredients on the label must be
listed in order of how much the diet contains. This means the first listed
ingredient in a food in theory is the ingredient that the food has the most
of, the second ingredient is the one that the food has the second most of,
and so on.
Note that if the first ingredient is a meat – e.g. chicken – a lot of this
meat is actually water. Once the food is cooked and processed, a lot of
this water is removed, leaving maybe 20% of the original weight of the
ingredient. So if the second ingredient is a grain – e.g. corn – there may
actually be more corn than chicken in the food! If however, the first
ingredient is chicken meal, this means that the water has already been
removed from the chicken meat (before adding it to the formula and
weighing it for the ingredient list), and so the product is more likely to
have a high content of animal protein.
Ideally there should be more animal-based protein in a food than grain
protein. Animal proteins are more digestible than protein from grain
sources – this means the dog can utilise more of the food, and less is
wasted and passes through the gut unused. Animal-based protein,
including specified meats, dairy products and egg, is referred to as high
quality protein, and is important for a healthy immune system, good
mental functioning and a good coat quality.
Avoid a diet that contains unspecified meat – ingredients listed as
“poultry” or “animal protein”. Often this will be the waste products of
meat production that is considered unfit for human consumption. It will
often contain a lot less actual meat protein. Look for specified meat, such
as “chicken”, “chicken meal”, “lamb”, “pork” etc. Avoid anything termed
a “by-product” e.g. “meat by-product” “poultry by-product” etc. This may
mean feet, beaks, feathers, fur etc and often contains very little meat!
Also note that animal fat or animal tallow is not a source of protein,
and is often added to a diet high in grain protein in order in increase
palatability (i.e. make it taste better). If the first few ingredients are all
grains and include an animal fat e.g. “chicken tallow” this indicates a
lower quality diet that is not as preferable as one with a high content of
animal proteins.You can also read
