Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report 2018 - Textile Exchange
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Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report 2018
Foreword from La Rhea Pepper Call to action
Rise to the Challenge
SET TARGETS
We are thrilled to launch our 2018 report demonstrating deep passion about the vibrancy of the sector and its Join an Textile Exchange Industry Challenge
even more growth over the last year in the preferred leading role in the sustainable textile journey. We believe and commit to transitioning your fiber usage to
fiber and materials landscape. I never tire of hearing exchanges with like-minded people from all parts of the a preferred option. Set quantitative, time-bound
of new innovation and this year’s report is packed full value chain are the best way to transform the industry targets to help track progress.
of exciting stories of new entrants and advancements and that a more connected community will have greater
KNOW YOUR SUPPLY PARTNERS
across the portfolio of preferred fiber and materials. collective impact than anyone of us can achieve alone.
We are seeing more and more innovation in alternative As a result, we will continue to provide an environment Tracing all the way back to your farmers, and
feedstocks, including biobased and recycled content that will bring the industry together, creating space feedstock suppliers means you can more actively
and, while its early days, these may one day take over for dialogue and progress through training, practice manage your risks and opportunities.
from the traditional fiber sources that we depend upon sharing, and the encouragement of invention. We are
today. Our report presents information on recycled very excited about facilitating a community connected
SUPPORT INNOVATION
options emerging in all fiber categories, indicating by common themes and look forward to your input and Looking for innovative ways to do great things?
that the circular economy is gaining importance, but help in linking the sector for greater impact. Invest in research, technologies, and initiatives that
overall market share of recycled materials is still low, will result in sustainability gains for all, and bring
particularly in fiber-to-fiber recycling. We are asking you scale.
to be even more ambitious in setting and delivering
your sustainability targets that will slow consumption, La Rhea Pepper TAKE A PORTFOLIO APPROACH
save resources, and close the textile loop. If we are Managing Director, There’s no one size fits all to building your preferred
serious about shifting from a fossil carbon based sector Textile Exchange fiber and material supply base, different PFMs offer
to a circular one we need to embrace innovations that different opportunities.
reduce and reuse waste, and regenerate farm land.
The findings from this market report make us more BENCHMARK YOUR PROGRESS
determined than ever to look for opportunities to deliver Are you moving fast enough? Ahead or behind the
the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), and so curve? The PFM Benchmark helps you gain insight
we are renewing our commitment to the industry to and focus efforts.
provide the best available data and analysis on the
availability of preferred fiber and materials. By doing so, JOIN A WORKING GROUP
we hope to encourage the industry to build a portfolio None of us can do this alone. Pre-competitive
of preferred fibers and materials, continue to switch exchanges, with like-minded people from all parts
out risky feedstock sources, and use sustainability of the value chain, are the best way to transform the
standards and traceability systems to drive up quality industry.
across the board. We know we are unified by our
TAKE YOUR SEAT AT THE TABLE
Attend one or more of the in-person PFM Round
Tables held at our annual conference.
Cover Page Photo: Wools of New Zealand
What’s inside
Contents Synthetics 58
Key findings / The year in numbers 5 Polyester 59
The global market 6 Recycled polyester 60
Biobased polyester 67
Plant-based Natural Fibers 7
Nylon 69
Cotton 8
Recycled nylon 70
Preferred virgin cotton 9
Biobased nylon 72
Recycled cotton 19
Hemp, linen and other plant-based fibers 21 Other manmade fibers 74
Animal Fibers 25 Fiber blends recycling 76
Down 26
Megatrends 77
Preferred virgin down 27
SDGs / Science-Based Targets / circular economy / bioeconomy / microfiber
Recycled down 33 prevention / sustainability standards 78
Wool 34
Appendix 92
Preferred virgin wool 35
Methodology & Disclaimer 93
Recycled wool 40
About Textile Exchange 96
Silk 42
Leather 45
Manmade Cellulosics 48
Preferred virgin MMCs 49
Recycled MMCs 56
© | Page 3
Welcome to the 2018
Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report
Welcome to the 2018 Preferred Fibers & Materials these important topics and continues to bring you the
Market Report (PFMR). We’ve made significant most up-to-date data and information.
advances this year and are excited to share more
preferred fiber volumes and certified facilities than ever LEADERSHIP AND COLLABORATION – We are
before. There are also some important changes in the committed to both leadership and collaboration –
content that I would like to bring to your attention. From whether it is our own, our members, or together with
this year, the signature Textile Exchange Leaderboards like-minded partners and friends. You will find many
will be published in our accompanying Preferred Fiber examples of collaborative leadership throughout the
& Materials Benchmark report. These volume-driven report – from the latest on Textile Exchange Working
“top 10” rankings, originate from the Textile Exchange Groups and Round Tables to other non-profits and
Benchmark survey and are now listed in the Benchmark experts’ platforms, many of them featuring in our “Insider
Report. Series” update for 2018.
How to read the PFMR: We hope you enjoy our PFMR, and are as excited
as we are about the continued improvement in data
FIBER SECTIONS - The report is organized by fiber and content. This report is fast becoming the most
categories: naturals (plant based), naturals (animal comprehensive annual update you will find across
based), manmade cellulosics, and synthetics. You will the suite of preferred fibers and materials. As always
know which fiber category you are navigating by the we look forward to your feedback and support for our
distinctive colorways in each section. commitment to industry transformation.
Within each fiber section the information is organized
by:
Liesl Truscott
• Conventional materials: production data and trends Director of Europe & Materials Strategy,
• Preferred materials: virgin and recycled production Textile Exchange
data and trends
• Updates on suppliers and innovations
• Standards and certification
• Q&As with fascinating fiber experts
KEY TOPICS – Some of our updates and information
are over-arching or cut across fiber categories, such
as the Sustainable Development Goals, circularity, and
microfibers. Textile Exchange is leading discussions on
Key findings The year in numbers
The market for preferred fibers and materials is growing.
New preferred fibers and materials The use of standards is increasing,
are emerging. and the availability of traceability
19+81+P 14+86+P 5+95+P
systems is growing. PREFERRED COTTON RECYCLED POLYESTER LYOCELL
Manmade cellulosics see a particularly
vibrant innovation landscape e.g. Refibra™, The number of facilities certified to
Naia™, Orange Fiber. sustainability standards is increasing e.g.
Global Organic Textile Standard, Global
Biosynthetics such as biobased polyester, Recycled Standard, Responsible Down
nylon and spidersilk are an important Standard, and the Responsible Wool
new emerging fiber category e.g. Fulgar’s Standard.
EVO®, Bolt Threads’ Microsilk.
New supply chain connectivity and 19% 14% 4.5%
The number of leather alternatives is traceability systems (including blockchain) market share market share market share
growing e.g. Modern Meadow`s Zoa™, are starting to change the way and speed
Apple Peel Skin, Vegea. in which we communicate, and share Share of preferred cotton Share of recycled polyester Share of lyocell in 2017 was
fiber in 2017 was ~19% with in 2017 was around 14%. 4.5%. A growing market
knowledge and data.
growth in most of the major The longer term growth trend for preferred manmade
initiatives. is difficult to project. cellulosics can be expected.
Circular economy gains importance Textile regulations are creating
Responsible
but market shares remain low. debate and impacting the industry. 696 Responsible Down
Standard (RDS)
235 Responsible Wool
Standard (RWS)
350 Leather Initiative
Commitment to circularity and closing The ban on importing certain plastic waste
material loops has increased e.g. Global including PET bottles to China has caused Number of RDS certified Number of RWS certified New Responsible Leather
sites increased from 539 in sites increased from seven Round Table attracted 350
Fashion Agenda`s 2020 Commitment Call. increasing prices and will result in a lower
2016 to 696 in 2017. in 2016 to around 235 in stakeholders.
rPET production volume.
The number of initiatives working on fiber-to- 2017.
fiber recycling is increasing e.g. Re:newcell, The ban of mulesing in New Zealand has led RDS RWS 350
HKRITA, Infinited Fiber. to a shift in the debate on mulesing beyond (NO. OF SITES) (NO. OF SITES) STAKEHOLDERS
the national borders. 800 696 800
There are recycled fiber options in all fiber
539
categories e.g. recycled cotton, wool, The proposals for synthetic textile labeling 600 600
down, MMCs, polyester and nylon but the regulations in California and Connecticut,
400 400
share of fiber-to-fiber recycling is still very USA, have received major media and 235
low (estimated at below 1% by the Ellen industry attention. 200 200
7
MacArthur Foundation).
0 0
2016 2017 2016 2017
51+5+6251F
GLOBAL FIBER PRODUCTION IN 2017
2017 Global fiber market Other plant-based (~5.5%)
Wool (1%)
Down (
Plant-based
Natural Fibers
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 7
Cotton
Photo: Ben Langdon , Mile91
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 8
MARKET SHARE OF PREFERRED COTTON
Preferred Virgin Cotton
6+94+F 10+90+F 12+88+F
2012-13 2013-14 2014-15
Production facts and figures (1)
From the niche to a market share The preferred cotton figures include
6% 10% 12%
of 19 percent, preferred cotton is cotton certified to the BCI Standard,
gaining ground. ABRACA, myBMP, Cotton made in 1,414 of 27,079 mt 2,411 of 26,225 mt 2,787 of 26,269 mt
Africa, REEL, Cleaner Cotton, e3 and
With a production of around 23 million organic and fairtrade cotton.
19+81+F 19+81+F
mt in 2016/17, cotton had a share of 2015-16 2016-17
around 24.5 percent of the total fiber The BCI standard without equivalents
market(2). made up around 47 percent of all Preferred cotton
The market share of preferred virgin
preferred cotton in 2016/17. All 19% 19% Other cotton
BCI cotton including its equivalents
cotton increased from six percent of ABRAPA, Cotton made in Africa
the total cotton production in 2012/13 and myBMP made up around 87% 3,426 of 21,485 mt 3,758 of 23,095 mt
to 19 percent in 2016/17. This equals of all preferred cotton. The Brazilian
an increase in global production standard ABRAPA, is with a market
volume of preferred cotton from 1.4 share of 32% of all preferred cotton,
million mt in 2012/13 to 3.8 million mt by far the most used standard apart PREFERRED COTTON FIBER PRODUCTION IN 2016-17
in 2016/17(3). It is expected that the from the BCI standard and the most 3.8 million MT
market share of preferred cotton will widespread BCI equivalent(4). in ,000 mt and % of pCotton
increase to 24 percent in 2017/18.
Fair Trade Conventional ≈ 7 (
The production volume of pCotton is growing (in ‘000 metric tons).
Preferred Virgin Cotton 4,000
BETTER COTTON INITIATIVE COTTON MADE IN AFRICA
469
500
3,262 400
A closer look at the preferred virgin cottons 3,000
400
2,505 320
1,969
300
2,000 1,879
Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) cotton a look at the Organic Cotton Market 200
169
145
production including equivalents Report 2018.
1,000 666
increased from 665,789 mt in 100
2012/13 to 3.26 million mt in Fairtrade cotton production reached
13,336 mt in 2016/17. 65 percent of 0 0
2016/17. The BCI Standard made
12
13
14
15
16
12
13
14
15
16
up ~50 percent of all BCI cotton all Fairtrade cotton was also certified to
-1
-1
-1
-1
-1
-1
-1
-1
-1
-1
3
4
5
6
7
3
4
5
6
7
produced in 2016/17. The remaining an organic standard.
BCI Standard BCI eq. ABRAPA
~50% of BCI cotton was produced Cleaner Cotton production increased BCI eq. CmiA/SCS BCI eq. MyBMB
according to the BCI equivalents from 258 mt in 2012/13 to 699 mt in
ABRAPA, Cotton made in Africa and ORGANIC COTTON FAIRTRADE
2016/17.
myBMP. 125 117 112
118 25
107 107
21
REEL cotton production was 13,890 19
Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) 100 20
mt in 2016/17. 16 17 17
production increased from 144,909 mt 75 15
in 2012/13 to 495,839 mt in 2016/17. The e3 cotton production decreased
from around 578 thousand mt in 50 10
Organic cotton production increased 2015-16 to 42 thousand mt in 2016-
from 107,243 mt in 2012/13 to 25 5
17 due to negative climatic conditions.
117,525 mt in 2016/17. For more 0 0
information on organic cotton have
12
13
14
15
16
12
13
14
15
16
-1
-1
-1
-1
-1
-1
-1
-1
-1
-1
3
4
5
6
7
3
4
5
6
7
Fairtrade Organic Fairtrade Conventional
CLEANER COTTON REEL
0.8 0.75 48 50
0.7
0.6 0.61 37 40
0.6
30
24
0.4
0.26 20
12 14
0.2
10
The data are based on information from the standard owners which we have received by mail or from their websites. The production
volumes include the total volume produced per standard including equivalents and overlaps with other standards. 0 0
12
13
14
15
16
12
13
14
15
16
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
13
14
15
16
17
13
14
15
16
17
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 10Preferred Virgin Cotton
Directory: Where to find preferred cotton across the globe
CENTRAL ASIA
This map locates the preferred cotton growing regions. A closer look at the African
1+99+F 67+33+F 11+23+66F
countries is provided on the next page. Preferred cotton was grown in 33 countries KAZAKHSTAN (7) KYRGYZSTAN TAJIKISTAN
in 2016/17. The countries with the largest share of preferred cotton production -
apart from Israel, Madagascar and Thailand - include Brazil, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, as ~1.4% ~67% ~33%
well as Burkina Faso, Cameroon, Mozambique, and Zambia(1).
Key 1,000 of 70,000 mt 8,019 of 12,000 mt 19,405 of 58,000 mt
Organic
BCI Standard EAST AND SOUTH EAST ASIA
Cleaner Cotton
1+18+180F 100+F
CHINA (8) THAILAND
REEL
MyBMP (BCI eq.) ~19,5% 100%
ABRAPA (BCI eq.)
Other 0.95 of 4.9 million mt 4 mt
(1)The figures are based on the data
USA SOUTH ASIA
received by the standard owners.
3+97+F 19+81+F 2+5+192F
(2) In the Unite, BCI, organic and Cleaner USA (2) PAKISTAN INDIA (9)
Cotton is produced. Organic and Cleaner
Cotton have a market share ofPreferred Virgin Cotton
100+F 86+14+F 30+70+F 4+3+93F
MALI (1) BURKINA FASO (2) ETHIOPIA UGANDA (5)
Directory: Spotlight on Africa ~31%Preferred Virgin Cotton
Sustainability standards across the globe
ORGANIC (+OCS/GOTS) Focus Sustaining health of soils, ecosystems CLEANER COTTON Focus Cleaning up cotton in California
and people
Verification / 2nd party monitoring
Verification / Verification (annual); certification by 3rd certification
certification party (farm level)
(farm level)
Chain of Bale identification system - USDA
Chain of Identity Preserved; Certification of Supply custody barcode on each bale
custody Chain
Product Marketed and trademarked as Cleaner
Product In store marketing/ on product label. marketing Cotton™
marketing 3rd party certification label optional
GMOs Yes, but sold separately from non-GMO
GMOs No permitted?
permitted?
COTTON MADE IN AFRICA Focus Sustainable African Cotton for a global
FAIRTRADE Focus To make trade fair, empower small scale textile industry
producers and workers and to foster
sustainable livelihoods. Verification / Self-assessment and 3rd party
certification certification on field and gin level
Verification / Certification by 3rd party (farm level)
certification
(farm level) Chain of Mass Balance from spinning mill onward
custody (hard identity from field to spinning mill);
Chain of Two models: (1) Classic - physically full traceability possible through Hard
custody segregated and traceable, (2) Mass Identity Preserved (option)
balance - physically traceable until
spinner; CoC maintained through supply Product In store marketing/ on product labeling
chain via online tool marketing (own label or CmiA hangtag).
Product On product and In store marketing. GMOs No
marketing Third party certified (Fairtrade Mark) permitted?
GMOs No
permitted?
REEL COTTON Focus To create more sustainable, traceable
cotton
Focus To transform the market by making Verification / Developed and verified by Flo-Cert (3rd
BETTER COTTON INITIATIVE Better Cotton a sustainable mainstream certification party)
commodity. (farm level)
Verification / Self-Assessment, 2nd Party and 3rd Chain of Bale preserved - procurement links to
certification Party Verification custody supply chain provided if required
(farm level)
Product In store and on product marketing
Chain of Physical segregation farm to gin; Mass marketing
custody balance gin to retailer
GMOs Yes
Product On-product Claims Framework permitted?
marketing
GMOs Yes
permitted?
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 13Preferred Virgin Cotton
Supporting the transition
There are a number of initiatives Cotton 2040 launched CottonUp, a General information industry policy, manage and identify
supporting the transition towards new Guide to Sourcing Sustainable resources and provide support
Textile Exchange Microsite – services to accelerate the growth of
preferred cotton. Collaboration and Cotton in 2018. This guide provides aboutorganiccotton.org is a resource
information are key for a successful practical information and resources to the organic cotton sector.
space dedicated to spreading the
uptake of preferred cotton. either start sourcing sustainable cotton word about organic cotton. CottonConnect is an enterprise with
or increase volumes. a clear mission to transform the cotton
Key news Organic Cotton Accelerator is a
Cotton and coffee industry working industry for good. CottonConnect
Textile Exchange`s First Regional multi-stakeholder initiative focused on delivers services to promote
on joint indicators in Project Delta: creating a prosperous organic cotton
Organic Cotton Round Table West The International Coffee Organization sustainable cotton agriculture and
Africa was held in Koudougou, sector which benefits everyone —from develop thriving lives and livelihoods.
(ICO) and the Global Coffee Platform farmer to consumer.
Burkina Faso in September 2018 (GCP) are collaborating with the These include BCI, REEL Cotton
in collaboration with Catholic Relief Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) and Organic & Fair Cotton Secretariat Program, Organic, Farmer Business
Services (CRS), USDA and SICOT. the International Cotton Advisory (OFCS) - India: Representatives from School and Women’s Empowerment.
Further round tables include an annual Committee – Social, Environmental the Indian organic cotton industry
event held in Izmir focusing on Turkey, Please see also Textile Exchange`s
& Economic Performance of Cotton have agreed to set up a new organic Organic Cotton Market Report 2018
Egypt and Central Asia as well as the (ICAC-SEEP) in order to develop a and fair cotton secretariat to focus on
Global Organic Cotton Round Table. for more information.
measurement and reporting framework
West Africa Organic & Fairtrade that is applicable not only to the coffee
Cotton Coalition was launched at sector but across different agricultural
the International Cotton and Textile commodity sectors.
Conference (SICOT) in Koudougou,
Burkina Faso. This coalition aims to
establish reliable market access for
tens of thousands of small farmer
families in West Africa who are
producing organic-fairtrade cotton and
other organic crops.
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 14Q&A with Alison Ward
have increased their knowledge and outreach efforts just 4% of women join the importance of creating harmonious
also developed the confidence to create any form of training program that can communities and the need to include
thriving micro-businesses. assist them in their roles as farmers and men in any training to empower women
Alison Ward
CEO, CottonConnect
champions within their communities. So to avoid creating conflict. Societal
I am also excited to work with brands it is important to offer specific training for changes take a number of years before
who look beyond the raw material they women to close the gender gap. you begin to see movement.
are buying and consider the social
What excites you most about impacts. Kering and SuperDry have both We must make sure women are not It is essential for growing communities
Q working with women in rural
cotton communities?
invested in supporting women in organic
cotton communities, with Kering adding
left behind in the current trend towards
using technology, particularly mobile
to be resilient, and so they are often
nervous of changing practices that could
Women’s Right and Life Skills training phones, as an enabler for agri-extension affect their crop and income. They might
The potential to improve the livelihoods and Winter Crop Training to their Organic services. This means ensuring women not change all the practices at once or
in rural cotton communities really Cotton Farmer Training Program. This have equitable access to and use of wait to see if something works with a
escalates when you work with women. follows C&A Foundation’s pioneering technology, as well as influence over neighbouring farmer first. Understanding
When women are empowered to take initiatives to support a thriving organic how it evolves. It is usually the men in this, and building the confidence
care of themselves, make decisions, cotton sector, for example by improving the household that have mobile phones, in a program, is key for adoption of
take charge of land and their finances, women’s business skills through the so men need to be encouraged to give sustainable practices.
not only does their household income Farmer Business School. women access to mobile phones.
grow, the entire community economy Tell us a story of where
benefits. As an implementation partner for BCI, Traceability and creating a demand CottonConnect’s
I have personally seen the benefits of
enabling farmer training for multiple
brand partners, it has been encouraging
for sustainable cotton continues to be
important, which is why it is encouraging Q intervention has made a
difference. How can we
taking a holistic approach when visiting to see the power of these interventions, to see the commitment from the replicate, scale, and build
CottonConnect’s Women in Cotton especially in one community where companies signing the Sustainable on this success?
project, supporting 500 women farmers women were inspired to set up their own Cotton Communique to use 100%
and adolescent girls in Gujarat, India. self-help group. sustainable cotton by 2025. A great example is CottonConnect’s
The program provides a background work with Primark and the Self-
in literacy, numeracy, rights and health What are the areas where
to enable women to take advantage Q improvement is most Why are these problems so
Employed Women’s Association
(SEWA). The Sustainable Cotton
of increased livelihood opportunities,
both within cotton and through
needed?
Women play key roles in cotton farming
Q entrenched... what have you
learned from other areas
Program, based on CottonConnect’s
REEL Cotton program, trained 1,251
supplemental income running their own where you have worked?
but often do not receive the same female cotton farmers in the Gujarat
enterprises. Each time I visit, I can see training, support or pay as men. Our When meeting with women in the Cocoa region in India in its first three years.
a transformation in how the women research found that without specific Life program in Ghana, I learned about The program trains female farmers
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 15Q&A with Alison Ward
in sustainable farming methods so I saw the personal side of the story
they minimize the impact on their when I visited a family in Gujarat where
local environment and improve their the wife was involved in the program
livelihoods through increased income. and the father and daughter were
enrolled in a Farmer Business School,
Farmers participating in the program part of the REEL Cotton program.
recorded significant results. By the With the wife’s increased profit,
third year of the program, they saw she had bought a motorbike for her
an average profit increase of 247%, husband and he was so proud of her.
a reduction of input costs by 19.2%, It was great to see the education and
40% reduction in the use of chemical benefits cascading through the family.
fertilizer, 44% reduction of chemical
pesticide usage, and a 10% water We are in a great place to build on
usage decrease. this success and scale up. It’s always
been my focus to drive women’s
Since the outcomes of the program participation and it’s rewarding to see
far exceeded expectations, Primark that we now have 49,500 women
decided in 2016 to substantially scale enrolled in our agronomic and social
up the initiative to train an additional programs including India, Pakistan,
10,000 women farmers over the next China and Peru. We know our model
six years. In total, over 6,000 farmers works, we have created supply chain
have either received, or are currently connectivity, and established a base
receiving, training as part of the from which to accelerate change. I am
program. The farmers are connected particularly excited to be expanding
directly with Primark’s supply chain into Pakistan, with a new project
and the cotton is used in its first working with 10,000 women.
sustainable cotton product, a range
of women’s pyjamas. It’s incredible to
have this level of transparency from
farmer to garment.
Photo: CottonConnect
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 16Preferred Cotton Examples of commitments:
Nudie committed to 100% organic cotton
Commitments by 2017.
Stella McCartney commit to100% organic
The commitment of brands and the 100% by 2025 pledge to date are: use at least 35 percent sustainable cotton by 2020.
retailers is key to accelerating the ASOS, EILEEN FISHER, Greenfibres, cotton by 2020, with 10 percent of
preferred cotton market. H&M, IKEA, Kering, Levi’s, Lindex, the total volume being organic cotton. All EILEEN FISHER cotton and linen will be
M&S, Nike, Sainsbury’s, F&F at Tesco, The aim is to increase the proportion organic by 2020.
The market for preferred cotton Woolworths, Adidas, A-Z, BikBOk, of sustainable cotton to 70 percent by
has been developed and shaped Mantis World commit to 100% organic
Burberry, Burton Snowboards, 2025, with 20 percent being organic cotton by 2021.
through the commitment of engaged Carlings, Coyuchi, Cubus, Days cotton. The following standards apply
individuals from its beginning. like This, Dressmann, Hanky Panky, to purchasing of organic cotton: C&A’s 2020 goal is for 100 percent of the
To scale the preferred cotton market House of Fraser, Indigenous Designs, the Global Organic Textile Standard cotton they use to be more sustainable.
a Sustainable Cotton Pledge(1) KappAhl, Kathmandu, Mantis World, (GOTS), the International Association of In 2017, 67 percent of the cotton C&A
was initiated by the International MetaWear, Otto Group, prAna, Natural Textile Industry (NATURTEXTIL sold was either certified organic cotton or
Sustainability Unit (ISU) under His SkunkFunk, Timberland, Urban, Volt IVN) standard, the Textile Exchange sourced as Better Cotton.
Royal Highness The Prince of Wales. and Wow. The pledge is still open Organic Content Standard (OCS), the
and brands and retailers are invited to bioRe Social & Environmental Standard IKEA is committed to 100 percent
Since the closing of the ISU in March sustainable cotton and reached this target
2018, it was agreed that Textile submit their commitments here. and all the organic standards forming
part of the IFOAM Family of Standards. in 2015. For IKEA sustainable cotton
Exchange would take over the role of Brands are also publicly committing means that the cotton is either recycled or
(2)
the initiative`s Secretariat. to using 100 percent organic. grown with less water, chemical fertilizer
38 major brands have pledged to Cotton Pledges Against Forced and pesticides.
Examples are Nudie, Stella McCartney, Labor
achieve 100 percent sustainable EILEEN FISHER, SkunkFunk H&M’s aim is for all cotton in their range to
cotton by 2025, an additional 25 and Mantis World. Alongside the Over 250 industry brands and retailers come from sustainable sources by 2020
brands since May 2017. Sustainable Cotton Challenge, other have signed the Uzbek Cotton Pledge, – organic cotton, recycled cotton or Better
The 2025 Sustainable Cotton initiatives have also committed to committing to end the practice of Cotton.
Challenge challenges retailers and preferred cotton. forced labor in the cotton sector in
Uzbekistan. Companies are now By 2020, Levi’s aim to use 100 percent
brands to champion the greater use German Partnership for Sustainable sustainable cotton, including 95 percent
of sustainable cotton by aiming that invited to sign the Turkmen Cotton
Textiles - 70 percent sustainable Pledge to end government-sponsored Better Cotton, plus a mix of organic cotton
100 percent of the cotton from their cotton by 2025 with 20 percent and recycled cotton.
supply chains comes from the most forced labor in Turkmenistan’s cotton
being organic. sector.
sustainable sources. adidas committed to using 100%
Alongside individual goals, Partnership Sustainable Cotton by 2018. For adidas,
The brands that have committed to members have also jointly agreed to BCI is the primary standard.
(1) https://textileexchange.org/2025-sustainable-cotton-challenge/.
BACK TO CONTENTS (2) https://www.textilbuendnis.com/en/what-we-do/individual-responsibility. © | Page 17Q&A with Dr. Jürgen Janssen
and Textile Exchange. Given the global far two Partnership Initiatives running, You’ve been focusing on
Dr. Jürgen Janssen
nature of garment supply chains, for the
Textiles Partnership as a national initiative
one focusing on labor conditions in
spinning mills in Southern India and the
Q cotton primarily, which
fiber(s) do you head to next?
Head of the Secretariat
of the Partnership of
it is crucial to cooperate with other other on chemical and environmental
In July, the new expert group of the
Sustainable Textiles players. management in Asian factories. Finally,
Textiles Partnership on best available
the Textiles Partnership provides a
How does membership work manmade fibers kicked off its work.
It’s been a big year for the Q and what are the unique
unique platform for mutual support and
learning for our members.
The objective is to agree on minimum
Q Partnership, what are you
most proud of?
benefits for members?
The Textiles Partnership is a multi-
requirements for manmade fibers
regarding raw material, production,
Tell us more about how your product toxicity and end-of-life. In
In 2018, for the first time all members of
the Textiles Partnership had to publish
stakeholder initiative with some 130
members, including companies, Q sustainable cotton targets
work?
addition, the expert group will identify
areas where members need support
their roadmaps with their annual targets business associations, NGOs, trade
and guidance. The focus is on
related to sustainability in textile supply unions, standard-setting organizations The Textiles Partnership has agreed on
manmade cellulose fibers, synthetic
chains. 116 members submitted their and the German Federal Government. mandatory targets regarding the use
fibers and biobased plastics.
roadmaps with a total of 1,300 specific Company members include not only of sustainable cotton. At the individual
targets. This is a major step forward, German, but also international brands level, all companies that purchase
as it means that many members have and retailers. Members are required cotton have to increase the share of
revealed detailed information for the first to take on their individual responsibility sustainable cotton annually from 2018
time. External experts have reviewed the to improve environmental and working on. In addition, at the aggregate level,
roadmaps. conditions along the textile and garment the collective target for the Textiles
supply chain. This is reflected in the Partnership as a whole is to use at least
In addition, members submitted reports annual roadmaps and progress reports 35% sustainable cotton by 2020, with
on the progress they made in 2017. already mentioned. The unique feature 10% of the total volume required to
From next year on, all members will of the Textiles Partnership is that it brings be organic cotton. By 2025, the total
publish the progress reports, too. The together a range of actors from different proportion of sustainable cotton will
Textiles Partnership has also started stakeholder groups pursuing the same then rise to 70% and the proportion of
strategic cooperation arrangements with goals. Within the context of so-called organic cotton to 20%.
several other European and international Partnership Initiatives, members
initiatives in the past year, including have the possibility to participate in
the Dutch Agreement on Sustainable broader actions aimed at achieving
Garments and Textiles, Sustainable systemic change on the ground in
Apparel Coalition, the ACT Initiative production countries. There are so
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 18Recycled Cotton A closer look at recycled cotton The Ellen MacArthur Foundation attracts increasing interest for denim
Recycled Cotton
Who’s doing what in recycled cotton?
Initiatives supporting the transition which are produced with 100%
recycled fibers. These yarns contain
The Alliance for Responsible a high percentage of mechanically
Denim (ARD) is a collaboration recycled cotton, which is blended with
between Made-By, Circle Economy recycled polyester from PET bottles.
and the Amsterdam University of Read more in our Insider Series.
Applied Sciences. The project “Post-
Consumer Recycled Denim Standard” Martex Fiber offers Eco2cotton®
led by Circle Economy focuses on which stands for recycled fiber
developing a preferred industry buying made from pre-consumer fibers and
standard, defining a business model clippings which are sorted by color
and road map for the introduction and blended. The resulting cotton-like
and scaling up of Post-Consumer- fluff can be used as a fill for stuffing
Recycled-Denim (PCRD) production. and pads or for spinning new yarns.
The regenerated fibers retain the color
Textile Exchange organized a session of the original textile, so less dyes and
“The Second Life of Cotton” at the harmful chemicals pollute our planet.
Textile Exchange Conference in Milan For yarns made with Eco2cotton®,
in 2018. other acrylic, polyester or eco fibers
Examples of suppliers are added to enhance performance
and color.
Artistic Milliners is a Pakistan based
company producing post-consumer Velener Textil GmbH has won the
recycled cotton. Discover Natural Fibres Initiative
(DNFI) Innovation in Natural Fibers
Belda Lloréns is a Spanish yarn Award for 2018. Its WECYCLED®
manufacturer offering recycled yarns system addresses the issue that 30
branded EcoLife®. percent of yarn used in weaving mills,
knitting mills and garment making
Geetanjali Woollens is an Indian remains unused. The remaining yarn
company offering recycled cotton fiber is separated from the paper cone.
and yarn. The recycled fibers are blended with
responsible virgin cotton into new
Hilaturas Ferre has developed its Photo: Ferre Kweskin
yarn.2)
RECOVER range of yarns and threads
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 20Other Plant-
Based Fibers add credit
Photo: xxx
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 2157+18+5421F
OTHER PLANT-BASED FIBERS
Other Plant-based Fibers
A range of choices
Other plant-based fibers had a market 5.8
share of around 5.5 percent of global
million mt
fiber production in 2017(1). 8+ million households
There is a diversity of other plant-
based fibers produced but not all of are estimated to be involved
them are used in the textile industry.
in the production of natural
plant-based fibers such as
jute, coir, flax and hemp.
Beyond cotton other plant-based Jute, Kenaf & Allied Fibers Coir Flax fiber and tow, ex scutching mill
fibers include jute, kenaf, coir, flax, Other, not specified elsewhere Sisal, Hennequen & similar hard fibers
sisal, ramie, kapok, abaca and hemp. Bast fibers Ramie Kapok Abaca Hemp fiber and tow
Jute has the largest market share
of all other plant-based fibers
at around 50-60%. The most OTHER PLANT-BASED FIBER PRODUCTION (MILLION MT)
important other plant-based fibers 6
for the textile industry are flax (linen)
and hemp. 5
It is estimated that more than eight
4
million households are involved in the
production of these other natural plant-
based fibers(2). 3
2
1
0
2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017e
Jute, Kenaf & Allied Fibers Coir Flax Fiber and Tow, ex scutching mill
(1) Source: DNFI Website - Natural fibers production reaches 30 million mt published on 29th July 2017; plus Textile Exchange Other Not Specified Elsewhere Sisal, Hennequen and similar hard fibers
estimate for 2017 based on 2016 figures; total fiber volume calculated by Textile Exchange based on various sources (see chapter on
Global Fiber Volume). (2) Source: DNFI Website - Natural fibers production reaches 30 million mt published on 29th July 2017. Bast Fibers (Other) Ramie Kapok Abaca Hemp fiber and tow
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 22Other Plant-based Fibers
Hemp, linen, and beyond
Hemp USA.
Hemp for fibers is mainly grown in 9Fiber is a USA based company
China but there are also emerging dedicated to delivering innovative,
initiatives for example in the United responsible and sustainable solutions
States. to cannabis and hemp biomass
waste recycling. The 9Fiber patented
Hemp requires fewer inputs and has a solution™ converts unwanted waste
lower impact in cultivation compared material from the cannabis and
to other fibers. A small number of industrial hemp industries into usable
suppliers offer organic and recycled bast fiber and hurd to be used in a
hemp. wide variety of products including
Examples: fibers for the textile industry.
Hempfortex is a main supplier of Research is underway into hemp
hemp textiles. The vertically integrated and jute as feedstock for manmade
company uses hemp grown in China cellulosics and even biobased leather.
and manufactures yarn and knitted
and woven fabrics made from hemp.
Earth Alive Clean Technologies,
a leading Canadian Clean-Tech
company, announced the launch of
the Clean Fiber Initiative in 2018,
a collaborative research project to
improve the production of natural
fiber crops in Canada and around the
world. Earth Alive currently has hemp
trials underway with conventional and
organic growers in Canada, and the
Photo: Hempfortex
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 23Other Plant-based Fibers
Hemp, linen, and beyond
Linen CRAiLAR Technologies is a
Canadian cleantech company which
Flax is mainly grown in China and has developed its proprietary CRAiLAR
Europe. fiber processing technology. This
Flax has a comparatively small enzymatic process transforms flax
environmental impact since it needs into soft fibers which are functionally
fewer inputs in cultivation than other equivalent to manmade cellulosics.
natural fibers. And beyond - nettle, lotus, kapok
Some suppliers also offer organic linen Further plant-based fibers used in
which does not use any synthetic the textile industry include nettle,
chemicals in production. kapok and others. Innovators include
Examples: Himalayan Wild Fibers which
extracts textile fiber from a nettle plant
Libeco is a Belgian-based company that grows wild in the mountain forests
that collaborates with a group of of the Himalayas, Samatao Lotus
growers of organic flax in France and Textiles which extracts the fibers from
processes this flax to organic linen the lotus plant and FLOCUS™, a
products. brand producing yarn blends and filling
made with kapok.
TERRE DE LIN is a French
cooperative specialized in the
production of textile flax (linen) from the
seeds to the fiber. With 650 farmers
and 240 employees the cooperative
produces 15 percent of the world’s
quality flax. Visit our Insiders Series for
Q&A.
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 24Animal-based
Fibers & Materials
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 25Down &
Feathers
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 26Preferred Virgin Down
Production facts and figures(1)
The global production volume of Responsible Down Standard >270,000 mt 70–90% 75-90%
down and feather is difficult to of down and feathers produced in from ducks,
quantify. Rough estimates indicate The Responsible Down Standard is produced globally China rest from geese
that the global down and feather gaining importance. The number of
production volume has increased to Responsible Down Standard (RDS)
certified sites increased from 108 in RDS
more than 270,000 mt per year(1). (NO. OF SITES)
2014 to 696 in 2017(3).
70-90 percent of the down production 800
comes from China(1). The global Traceable Down Standard 696
down and feather market is highly
The number of Global Traceable 600 539
fragmented with many small and
Down Standard (TDS) certified sites
medium producers.
increased from seven in 2016 to nine 400
Around 75-90 percent of the down in 2017(3).
239
comes from ducks, most other down 200
Downpass Standard 108
comes from geese(2).
The number of Downpass certified 0
Increasing concerns about the
sites increased to 4500 in 2017. Due 2014 2015 2016 2017
treatment of animals have let to
to a change in the standard system, a
the development of animal welfare
comparison with the previous year is
standards for down. Key standards
not possible(3). DOWNPASS TDS
include the Responsible Down
(NO. OF SITES) (NO. OF SITES)
Standard (RDS), the Global Traceable
Down Standard (TDS) and Downpass. 5000 10
4500 9
These standards award and ensure
that there is: 4000 8 7
• no live-plucking 3000 6
• no force-feeding
• broader animal welfare (depending 2000 4
on standard)
1000 2
(1) Source: OIA - Priority Issues Brief: Down published in May 2016 - referencing EOG; communication with the EOG; cross-checked
with other sources such as cn-down.com and FAO database, IDFL Info Worldwide Sources of Down and Feathers 2006. *These
figures do not include recycled down. For recycled down see the chapter on “Recycled Down”. (2) Based on FAO database and 0 0
conversations with industry experts (3) Source: Data received by mail from the standard owners. Please note that these numbers 2017 2016 2017
include down processing sites.
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 27Preferred Virgin Down
Directory: Where to find preferred down across the globe
This map locates key production regions and certified sites in 2017.
RESPONSIBLE DOWN STANDARD (RDS) DOWNPASS GLOBAL TRACEABLE DOWN STANDARD (TDS)
696 sites across 26 countries 4,500 sites across 9 sites across five countries:
Top 10 producing countries: 9 countries: • USA: 3
• China: 418 • China: 1,970 • Vietnam: 3
• South Korea: 92 • Ukraine: 946 • Bangladesh: 1
• USA: 33 • Germany: 615 • China: 1
• Poland: 21 • France: 284 • Ireland: 1
• Germany: 19 • Poland: 213
• UK: 14 • Russia: 190
• France: 12 • Hungary: 143
• Hong Kong: 10 • Ireland: 142
• Italy: 9
• Vietnam: 9
Tip: How to find suppliers of preferred down
Check out the Textile Exchange database or contact NSF or Downpass for a
(1) Please note that these figures include both down production and processing sites. list of certified suppliers of preferred virgin down.
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 28Preferred Virgin Down
Standards update
“
Responsible Down Standard (RDS) autumn 2016. The results of a public In March of 2018, we traveled to China to visit the RDS supply chain
survey, as well as the feedback from in preparation for the upcoming revision. We partnered with two
In 2017, Textile Exchange initiated the animal welfare organizations, testing Certification Bodies: Control Union and IDFL to coordinate the visits,
revision of the RDS 2.0. This revision institutes, certification companies,
is expected to be completed by the and we were accompanied by NSF International for some of the
NGOs and trade partners, flowed
end of 2018. Within the International audits.
into this development. The revised
Working Group, there are 31 voting standard is valid from 01 January During our visit, we observed raising farms, slaughterhouses,
member organizations and over 100 2017 and stands for the exclusion of hatcheries, and parent farms. While on our trip, we met a young family
individual members of the group. You feathers and down from live animals,
can read more about the revision on that owns a farm and has a contract to care for birds owned by a
material from foie gras production as
the standard`s website(1). nearby slaughterhouse. They live in a small apartment attached to
well as rearing control. In May 2017
the shelter for the birds. They provide direct care for the flock of birds
Downpass the standard and the implementation
rules were edited(2). under their contract. They explained to us how they care for the birds,
The first version of the Downpass including details about handling, feed, access to water, and keeping
standard was completed in June Global Traceable Down Standard the baby chicks warm in their early days. With each flock of birds,
2016. As part of a continuous (TDS) they also receive the feed, medicine, and books for record-keeping.
improvement process, a new version There was no revision of the TDS in This trip highlighted the importance in providing training and education
of the standard was developed in the reporting period(3). to farmers working with the standard, to ensure our goals are being
met. We also plan to review several of the farm, slaughter, and
transport criteria to ensure they are truly the highest possible level of
animal welfare for the birds.
Anne Gillespie and Ashley Gill
Integrity & Standards Team,
Textile Exchange
(1) http://responsibledown.org/for-business/rds-international-working-group/. (2) https://www.downpass.com (3) http://www.nsf.org/
newsroom/nsf-global-traceable-down-standard-explained
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 29Preferred Virgin Down
Supporting the transition
There are a number of initiatives by the European Outdoor Group in
working towards preferred down. collaboration with Textile Exchange
Collaboration and information are key and the Down Round Table.
for a successful uptake of preferred
down. Textile Exchange Responsible
Down Standard (RDS) International
Textile Exchange Preferred Down Working Group works on a regular
Working Group and Round revision of the Responsible Down
Table supports the knowledge, Standards (RDS).
understanding, and sustainable
development of the preferred down Textile Exchange Responsible
market. The global working group was Down Microsite informs about
initiated by the European Outdoor the Responsible Down Standard
Group (EOG) in 2014 and transitioned and its revision process: http://
to Textile Exchange in 2018. responsibledown.org/
The European Outdoor Group (EOG) IDFL is the world’s largest down
led the Global Stakeholder Roundtable and feather testing institute with
on ‘Responsible Down and Animal laboratories in the USA, Europe,
Welfare’ before it transitioned to Textile China, and Taiwan. See Q&A on the
Exchange. EOG published a Recycled next page.
Down Report in 2018.
A down stakeholder survey was
conducted in 2018 to find out more
about the preferred down market.
At the time of the report launch, the
survey was still open. 59 participants
including brands and retailers,
suppliers and other stakeholders have
submitted their answers by October
2018. The survey was designed
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 30Q&A with Matthew Lieber
in the down and feather supply chain. 2. Down is naturally a “green” been made in the transparency and
Matthew Lieber
In addition to our own audit systems, sustainable product. However, there are verification of animal welfare practices
Managing Director, IDFL Europe
IDFL provides certification services for sometimes chemical treatments and due to the active involvement of the
the Responsible Down Standard (RDS), inputs used to enhance quality. Some feather and down industry and their
How are you working to
Q
Downpass, EDFA, and J-TAS. IDFL has of these unwanted treatments may lead impact on the meat industry through
make the down industry more conducted audits for entire textile supply to increased dust / allergens and poor implementation of animal welfare
sustainable? chains. performance which impact consumer standards. This impact has provided
Feather and down are naturally a confidence in down products. needed clarity and confirmation of
What are the biggest the humane treatment of waterfowl
very sustainable product – being
a by-product of the meat industry
which typically requires strict health
Q challenges when it comes
to shifting the needle on
3. Consumer demand for down
products has been on the rise in the
that is typically regulated by the meat
industry, but just less transparent. We
down? past few years which has also increased
and safety requirements. Consumer have seen an increased capability in
the price. This increase in demand traceability and overall management
demand for transparency of products 1. There always seems to be a constant
combined with the impact of avian flu systems and best practices. In terms
and the processes and inputs used to challenge of verification of animal welfare
and other environmental policies, which of sustainability, there has been an
create them has led to the necessity practices – mainly focusing on force
decreases supply, cause price spikes increased demand of recycled down
for testing services that validate feeding and live-plucking, but also other
and uncertainty in the market place. This and feather. New technologies in
sustainable claims. IDFL provides help practices involving handling and general
uncertainty in price may lead purchasers down and feather processes and
in understanding regulatory and market- health of the waterfowl. It is common
to find other alternatives such as also fabric creations lead to high
driven sustainability testing requirements. knowledge now that live-plucking is
polyester or other synthetic fills. quality, fashionable finished products,
Through evaluation and analysis, our a very small (Recycled Down
A closer look
It is estimated that in Germany post-consumer recycled down and
alone, the bed feather processing feathers as part of their Sustainovation
industry generates around 950 mt initiative. Downlite also offers RDS and
of waste feathers(1). Down recycling TDS certified down.
is an important approach to reduce
resource consumption and address The Spanish company Navarpluma
the waste feathers. Recycled down offers 100 percent recycled down
can be from pre- or post-consumer branded NEOKDUN® originating
sources. from the recycling of bedding/apparel
finished products that have reached
Recycling of these materials not only the end of their product life cycle. It
helps to divert waste from landfills and also offers RDS certified down.
low-value pathways but also to save
resources such as energy and water Re:Down is a company specialized
used in down production. in the down recycling made from
post-consumer products. Re:Down
Standards produce a garden fertilizer from
feathers that do not make the grade.
Standards used for recycled down
include the Recycled Content Rohdex is a supplier of down certified
Standard (RCS), Global Recycled to RDS and Downpass as well as
Standard (GRS), and the SCS recycled down certified to the GRS.
Recycled Claim. Further information
on these standards is provided in the
chapter on “Sustainability Standards”.
Examples
The USA based company Downlite
launched a new innovation called Re/
charged down in 2017, GRS certified
(1) European Down and Feather Association (EDFA)
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 32Preferred Down
Commitments to preferred down
“
The number of apparel, outdoor and RDS - International Working Group We’re excited that since we gifted the RDS standard to Textile
home textile companies that have Exchange and the industry, the RDS is now on its third revision with
publicly committed to preferred down Around 30 brands, retailers, suppliers,
a group of diverse stakeholders contributing their expertise and
increases each year, with over 40 certification bodies and NGOs are part
of the Responsible Down International feedback to further improve the standard.
brands and retailers making public
commitments to the Responsible Working Group (RDS-IWG). James Rogers,
Down Standard (RDS). Suppliers engaged in the RDS-IWG Director of Sustainability,
Examples for public commitments: include: VF Corporation
Columbia has committed to 100 • Allied Feather and Down
percent RDS-certified down and • Downlite
feathers throughout its global line.* • Navarpluma
(excl. Japanese subsidiary). • Sustainable Down Source
Esprit ensures that 100 percent of
their down and feathers are sourced
according to the Responsible Down
Standard.
From Fall 2017, Tommy Hilfiger
confirmed that all their down products
will be certified to the Responsible
Down Standard.
From Fall 2017 product season,
all Patagonia’s virgin down was
certified to the Global Traceable Down
Standard (Global TDS), Advanced
certification level by NSF International.
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 33Wool
Wool
add credit
Photo: xxx
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 34Preferred Virgin Wool
96+4+F 1+1+98F
WOOL BY TYPE IN 2017e PREFERRED WOOL MARKET SHARE IN 2017
Production facts and figures(1)
With an annual production volume Since the RWS only launched in
~1.2
of more than one million mt, wool 2016, the market share is still low at ~1%
million mt
is the most important animal-based below one percent of the global wool
fiber. Sheep wool accounts for production.
approximately 95 percent of all wool.
Alpaca, Angora Rabbit, Camelhair, The RWS ensures animal welfare Sheep wool (95%) Other wool (5%) Organic (1%) Responsible (Preferred Virgin Wool
Directory: Where to find wool certified to the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS)
This map locates RWS certified farms and wool processing sites in 2017.
RESPONSIBLE WOOL STANDARD (RWS)
15 COUNTRIES - 235 SITES incl.
161 sites involved in both farms and processing,
19 in farms only and
55 in the processing only
RWS-CERTIFIED FARMS RWS-CERTIFIED
PROCESSING SITES
180 farms in six
countries 216 processing sites
in 15 countries
• South Africa: 130**
• Uruguay: 28** • South Africa: 130**
• Australia: 14 + 3**= 17 • Uruguay: 28**
• New Zealand: 3* • China: 26
• Argentina: 1 • USA: 6
• USA: 1 • Argentina: 5
• Taiwan: 5
• Germany: 4
• Australia: 3**
• Italy: 3
• Bulgaria: 1
• Hong Kong: 1
• Japan: 1
• New Zealand: 1
• UK: 1
• Thailand: 1
Tip: How to find suppliers of preferred wool
Countries with farms and processing Check out the Textile Exchange and organic standard databases for certified
Countries with processing only suppliers of preferred wool.
*Please note that due to incomplete data at the time of publication, the numbers for New Zealand do not include individual farms. The
actual number of certified units is even higher.
**These sites are involved in farm and processing activities.
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 36Preferred Virgin Wool
Standards update
Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) grown under the ZQ Accreditation the land so that it may be passed Governmental regulation
program (ZQ Merino and ZQ Premium to future generations. Wools of
The Responsible Wool Standard Wool) can now be sold as RWS New Zealand has been inspected New Zealand bans sheep mulesing
(RWS) has been registered as a certified. and assessed according to the
quality assurance scheme within the New Zealand has become the first-
Responsible Wool Standard (RWS). wool producing country to officially ban
Australian Wool Exchange (AWEX). Ovis21 combines a Grassland The intended launch of new RWS
Regeneration and Sustainability sheep mulesing. The new regulation
In a meaningful step towards approved consumer goods is in will go into effect on October 1, 2018.
Standard and with the RWS. 2018. Wools of New Zealand has also
integrating the RWS into existing
trading models, the RWS has been Ovis21 is a network of more than worked with EU Ecolabel to develop Australia - shift in the mulesing
registered as a quality assurance 160 producers and 22 studs in the world’s 1st on farm accreditation debate
scheme within the Australian Wool seven Argentine provinces as well system for greasy wool.
There was also a shift in the mulesing
Exchange (AWEX) wool auction trading the south of Chile and Uruguay. The Fibershed - Climate-Beneficial™ debate in Australia (see for example
system end of 2016. This step will network includes over one million wool AWI on the next page).
allow woolgrowers and brokers in sheep. Ovis 21 promotes a culture of
Australia to register their wool clips as grassland regeneration and biodiversity Fibershed is a California based
RWS Certified and will appear in the so the land will sustain people, organization which develops regional
auction catalogue as “RWS” so that their businesses and communities. fiber systems that build soil & protect
wool buyers can easily identify RWS Their Grassland Regeneration and the health of the biosphere. Fibershed
wool in the Australian auction system. Sustainability Standard and the is the initiator of the Climate Beneficial
Rangeland Health Index covers these Wool Program which is grounded in
ZQ Merino Accreditation Program ambition. To cover the animal welfare an effort to scale the implementation
and RWS Alignment as well, Ovis21 has adopted the of Carbon Farming to create carbon
Textile Exchange and The New Responsible Wool Standard (RWS). sinks. The wool of the participants
Zealand Merino Company Ltd. is marketed as Climate-Beneficial™
Wools of New Zealand and RWS wool.
recently signed a Memorandum
of Understanding (MOU) detailing Wools of New Zealand is owned
the alignment between the ZQ by the people who grow the wool
Accreditation program and the RWS. – farming families committed to
As a result of this agreement, wool sustainable practices and caring for
(1) http://responsibledown.org/for-business/rds-international-working-group/. (2) https://www.downpass.com (3) http://www.nsf.org/
newsroom/nsf-global-traceable-down-standard-explained
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 37You can also read
