Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report 2018 - Textile Exchange

 
Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report 2018 - Textile Exchange
Preferred Fiber & Materials
Market Report 2018
Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report 2018 - Textile Exchange
Foreword from La Rhea Pepper                                                                                                Call to action
Rise to the Challenge
                                                                                                                             SET TARGETS
We are thrilled to launch our 2018 report demonstrating       deep passion about the vibrancy of the sector and its          Join an Textile Exchange Industry Challenge
even more growth over the last year in the preferred          leading role in the sustainable textile journey. We believe    and commit to transitioning your fiber usage to
fiber and materials landscape. I never tire of hearing        exchanges with like-minded people from all parts of the        a preferred option. Set quantitative, time-bound
of new innovation and this year’s report is packed full       value chain are the best way to transform the industry         targets to help track progress.
of exciting stories of new entrants and advancements          and that a more connected community will have greater
                                                                                                                             KNOW YOUR SUPPLY PARTNERS
across the portfolio of preferred fiber and materials.        collective impact than anyone of us can achieve alone.
We are seeing more and more innovation in alternative         As a result, we will continue to provide an environment        Tracing all the way back to your farmers, and
feedstocks, including biobased and recycled content           that will bring the industry together, creating space          feedstock suppliers means you can more actively
and, while its early days, these may one day take over        for dialogue and progress through training, practice           manage your risks and opportunities.
from the traditional fiber sources that we depend upon        sharing, and the encouragement of invention. We are
today. Our report presents information on recycled            very excited about facilitating a community connected
                                                                                                                             SUPPORT INNOVATION
options emerging in all fiber categories, indicating          by common themes and look forward to your input and            Looking for innovative ways to do great things?
that the circular economy is gaining importance, but          help in linking the sector for greater impact.                 Invest in research, technologies, and initiatives that
overall market share of recycled materials is still low,                                                                     will result in sustainability gains for all, and bring
particularly in fiber-to-fiber recycling. We are asking you                                                                  scale.
to be even more ambitious in setting and delivering
your sustainability targets that will slow consumption,                             La Rhea Pepper                           TAKE A PORTFOLIO APPROACH
save resources, and close the textile loop. If we are                               Managing Director,                       There’s no one size fits all to building your preferred
serious about shifting from a fossil carbon based sector                            Textile Exchange                         fiber and material supply base, different PFMs offer
to a circular one we need to embrace innovations that                                                                        different opportunities.
reduce and reuse waste, and regenerate farm land.
The findings from this market report make us more                                                                            BENCHMARK YOUR PROGRESS
determined than ever to look for opportunities to deliver                                                                    Are you moving fast enough? Ahead or behind the
the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), and so                                                                             curve? The PFM Benchmark helps you gain insight
we are renewing our commitment to the industry to                                                                            and focus efforts.
provide the best available data and analysis on the
availability of preferred fiber and materials. By doing so,                                                                  JOIN A WORKING GROUP
we hope to encourage the industry to build a portfolio                                                                       None of us can do this alone. Pre-competitive
of preferred fibers and materials, continue to switch                                                                        exchanges, with like-minded people from all parts
out risky feedstock sources, and use sustainability                                                                          of the value chain, are the best way to transform the
standards and traceability systems to drive up quality                                                                       industry.
across the board. We know we are unified by our
                                                                                                                             TAKE YOUR SEAT AT THE TABLE
                                                                                                                             Attend one or more of the in-person PFM Round
                                                                                                                             Tables held at our annual conference.
                                                                            Cover Page Photo: Wools of New Zealand
Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report 2018 - Textile Exchange
What’s inside

Contents                                         Synthetics                                                                    58
Key findings / The year in numbers          5   Polyester                                                                     59
The global market                           6   Recycled polyester                                                            60
                                                 Biobased polyester                                                            67
Plant-based Natural Fibers                  7
                                                 Nylon                                                                         69
Cotton                                      8
                                                 Recycled nylon                                                                70
Preferred virgin cotton                     9
                                                 Biobased nylon                                                                72
Recycled cotton                            19
Hemp, linen and other plant-based fibers   21   Other manmade fibers                                                          74

Animal Fibers                              25   Fiber blends recycling                                                        76
Down                                       26
                                                 Megatrends                                                                    77
Preferred virgin down                      27
                                                 SDGs / Science-Based Targets / circular economy / bioeconomy / microfiber
Recycled down                              33   prevention / sustainability standards                                         78
Wool                                       34
                                                 Appendix                                                                      92
Preferred virgin wool                      35
                                                 Methodology & Disclaimer                                                      93
Recycled wool                              40
                                                 About Textile Exchange                                                        96
Silk                                       42
Leather                                    45

Manmade Cellulosics                        48
Preferred virgin MMCs                      49
Recycled MMCs                              56

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Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report 2018 - Textile Exchange
Welcome to the 2018
Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report
Welcome to the 2018 Preferred Fibers & Materials             these important topics and continues to bring you the
Market Report (PFMR). We’ve made significant                 most up-to-date data and information.
advances this year and are excited to share more
preferred fiber volumes and certified facilities than ever   LEADERSHIP AND COLLABORATION – We are
before. There are also some important changes in the         committed to both leadership and collaboration –
content that I would like to bring to your attention. From   whether it is our own, our members, or together with
this year, the signature Textile Exchange Leaderboards       like-minded partners and friends. You will find many
will be published in our accompanying Preferred Fiber        examples of collaborative leadership throughout the
& Materials Benchmark report. These volume-driven            report – from the latest on Textile Exchange Working
“top 10” rankings, originate from the Textile Exchange       Groups and Round Tables to other non-profits and
Benchmark survey and are now listed in the Benchmark         experts’ platforms, many of them featuring in our “Insider
Report.                                                      Series” update for 2018.

How to read the PFMR:                                        We hope you enjoy our PFMR, and are as excited
                                                             as we are about the continued improvement in data
FIBER SECTIONS - The report is organized by fiber            and content. This report is fast becoming the most
categories: naturals (plant based), naturals (animal         comprehensive annual update you will find across
based), manmade cellulosics, and synthetics. You will        the suite of preferred fibers and materials. As always
know which fiber category you are navigating by the          we look forward to your feedback and support for our
distinctive colorways in each section.                       commitment to industry transformation.

Within each fiber section the information is organized
by:
                                                                                   Liesl Truscott
• Conventional materials: production data and trends                               Director of Europe & Materials Strategy,
• Preferred materials: virgin and recycled production                              Textile Exchange
  data and trends
• Updates on suppliers and innovations
• Standards and certification
• Q&As with fascinating fiber experts

KEY TOPICS – Some of our updates and information
are over-arching or cut across fiber categories, such
as the Sustainable Development Goals, circularity, and
microfibers. Textile Exchange is leading discussions on
Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report 2018 - Textile Exchange
Key findings                                                                               The year in numbers

                                                                                                 The market for preferred fibers and materials is growing.
New preferred fibers and materials                The use of standards is increasing,
are emerging.                                     and the availability of traceability

                                                                                                        19+81+P 14+86+P 5+95+P
                                                  systems is growing.                                      PREFERRED COTTON                RECYCLED POLYESTER                   LYOCELL
Manmade cellulosics see a particularly
vibrant innovation landscape e.g. Refibra™,       The number of facilities certified to
Naia™, Orange Fiber.                              sustainability standards is increasing e.g.
                                                  Global Organic Textile Standard, Global
Biosynthetics such as biobased polyester,         Recycled Standard, Responsible Down
nylon and spidersilk are an important             Standard, and the Responsible Wool
new emerging fiber category e.g. Fulgar’s         Standard.
EVO®, Bolt Threads’ Microsilk.
                                                  New supply chain connectivity and                              19%                            14%                             4.5%
The number of leather alternatives is             traceability systems (including blockchain)                  market share                  market share                    market share
growing e.g. Modern Meadow`s Zoa™,                are starting to change the way and speed
Apple Peel Skin, Vegea.                           in which we communicate, and share                    Share of preferred cotton      Share of recycled polyester    Share of lyocell in 2017 was
                                                                                                     fiber in 2017 was ~19% with       in 2017 was around 14%.          4.5%. A growing market
                                                  knowledge and data.
                                                                                                      growth in most of the major     The longer term growth trend       for preferred manmade
                                                                                                                initiatives.               is difficult to project.   cellulosics can be expected.

Circular economy gains importance                 Textile regulations are creating
                                                                                                                                                                                 Responsible
but market shares remain low.                     debate and impacting the industry.                     696       Responsible Down
                                                                                                                   Standard (RDS)
                                                                                                                                           235     Responsible Wool
                                                                                                                                                   Standard (RWS)
                                                                                                                                                                         350     Leather Initiative
Commitment to circularity and closing             The ban on importing certain plastic waste
material loops has increased e.g. Global          including PET bottles to China has caused               Number of RDS certified         Number of RWS certified      New Responsible Leather
                                                                                                        sites increased from 539 in      sites increased from seven    Round Table attracted 350
Fashion Agenda`s 2020 Commitment Call.            increasing prices and will result in a lower
                                                                                                           2016 to 696 in 2017.           in 2016 to around 235 in          stakeholders.
                                                  rPET production volume.
The number of initiatives working on fiber-to-                                                                                                      2017.
fiber recycling is increasing e.g. Re:newcell,    The ban of mulesing in New Zealand has led                          RDS                             RWS                          350
HKRITA, Infinited Fiber.                          to a shift in the debate on mulesing beyond                    (NO. OF SITES)                  (NO. OF SITES)               STAKEHOLDERS
                                                  the national borders.                                  800              696             800
There are recycled fiber options in all fiber
                                                                                                                   539
categories e.g. recycled cotton, wool,            The proposals for synthetic textile labeling           600                              600
down, MMCs, polyester and nylon but the           regulations in California and Connecticut,
                                                                                                         400                              400
share of fiber-to-fiber recycling is still very   USA, have received major media and                                                                      235
low (estimated at below 1% by the Ellen           industry attention.                                    200                              200
                                                                                                                                                    7
MacArthur Foundation).
                                                                                                           0                                0
                                                                                                                  2016   2017                     2016    2017
Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report 2018 - Textile Exchange
51+5+6251F
                                                                                                                                                                                       GLOBAL FIBER PRODUCTION IN 2017

2017 Global fiber market                                                                                                                       Other plant-based (~5.5%)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Wool (1%)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Down (
Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report 2018 - Textile Exchange
Plant-based
                   Natural Fibers

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Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report 2018 - Textile Exchange
Cotton
                          Photo: Ben Langdon , Mile91

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Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report 2018 - Textile Exchange
MARKET SHARE OF PREFERRED COTTON
Preferred Virgin Cotton

                                                                                                                                               6+94+F 10+90+F 12+88+F
                                                                                                                                                     2012-13                     2013-14                      2014-15
Production facts and figures                            (1)

From the niche to a market share                                          The preferred cotton figures include
                                                                                                                                                        6%                         10%                          12%
of 19 percent, preferred cotton is                                        cotton certified to the BCI Standard,
gaining ground.                                                           ABRACA, myBMP, Cotton made in                                           1,414 of 27,079 mt          2,411 of 26,225 mt           2,787 of 26,269 mt
                                                                          Africa, REEL, Cleaner Cotton, e3 and
With a production of around 23 million                                    organic and fairtrade cotton.

                                                                                                                                               19+81+F 19+81+F
mt in 2016/17, cotton had a share of                                                                                                                 2015-16                     2016-17
around 24.5 percent of the total fiber                                    The BCI standard without equivalents
market(2).                                                                made up around 47 percent of all                                                                                                   Preferred cotton

The market share of preferred virgin
                                                                          preferred cotton in 2016/17. All                                             19%                         19%                       Other cotton
                                                                          BCI cotton including its equivalents
cotton increased from six percent of                                      ABRAPA, Cotton made in Africa
the total cotton production in 2012/13                                    and myBMP made up around 87%                                            3,426 of 21,485 mt          3,758 of 23,095 mt
to 19 percent in 2016/17. This equals                                     of all preferred cotton. The Brazilian
an increase in global production                                          standard ABRAPA, is with a market
volume of preferred cotton from 1.4                                       share of 32% of all preferred cotton,
million mt in 2012/13 to 3.8 million mt                                   by far the most used standard apart                                           PREFERRED COTTON FIBER PRODUCTION IN 2016-17
in 2016/17(3). It is expected that the                                    from the BCI standard and the most                                                           3.8 million MT
market share of preferred cotton will                                     widespread BCI equivalent(4).                                                                in ,000 mt and % of pCotton
increase to 24 percent in 2017/18.
                                                                                                                                                                                      Fair Trade Conventional ≈ 7 (
Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report 2018 - Textile Exchange
The production volume of pCotton is growing (in ‘000 metric tons).

Preferred Virgin Cotton                                                                                                            4,000
                                                                                                                                           BETTER COTTON INITIATIVE                             COTTON MADE IN AFRICA
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     469
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               500
                                                                                                                                                                                3,262                           400
A closer look at the preferred virgin cottons                                                                                      3,000
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               400
                                                                                                                                                                        2,505                                               320

                                                                                                                                                              1,969
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               300
                                                                                                                                   2,000            1,879
Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) cotton                                  a look at the Organic Cotton Market                                                                                                                                     200
                                                                                                                                                                                                       169
                                                                                                                                                                                               145
production including equivalents                                       Report 2018.
                                                                                                                                   1,000   666
increased from 665,789 mt in                                                                                                                                                                                                                   100
2012/13 to 3.26 million mt in                                          Fairtrade cotton production reached
                                                                       13,336 mt in 2016/17. 65 percent of                            0                                                                                                        0
2016/17. The BCI Standard made

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up ~50 percent of all BCI cotton                                       all Fairtrade cotton was also certified to

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produced in 2016/17. The remaining                                     an organic standard.
                                                                                                                                              BCI Standard BCI eq. ABRAPA
~50% of BCI cotton was produced                                        Cleaner Cotton production increased                                  BCI eq. CmiA/SCS  BCI eq. MyBMB    
according to the BCI equivalents                                       from 258 mt in 2012/13 to 699 mt in
ABRAPA, Cotton made in Africa and                                                                                                                 ORGANIC COTTON                                             FAIRTRADE
                                                                       2016/17.
myBMP.                                                                                                                              125             117       112
                                                                                                                                                                                  118                                                          25
                                                                                                                                           107                           107
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     21
                                                                       REEL cotton production was 13,890                                                                                       19
Cotton made in Africa (CmiA)                                                                                                        100                                                                                                        20
                                                                       mt in 2016/17.                                                                                                                   16          17      17
production increased from 144,909 mt                                                                                                 75                                                                                                        15
in 2012/13 to 495,839 mt in 2016/17.                                   The e3 cotton production decreased
                                                                       from around 578 thousand mt in                                50                                                                                                        10
Organic cotton production increased                                    2015-16 to 42 thousand mt in 2016-
from 107,243 mt in 2012/13 to                                                                                                        25                                                                                                        5
                                                                       17 due to negative climatic conditions.
117,525 mt in 2016/17. For more                                                                                                       0                                                                                                        0
information on organic cotton have

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                                                                                                                                                                                                Fairtrade Organic        Fairtrade Conventional

                                                                                                                                                  CLEANER COTTON                                                REEL
                                                                                                                                     0.8                                0.75                                        48                         50
                                                                                                                                                                                  0.7

                                                                                                                                                     0.6      0.61                                      37                                     40
                                                                                                                                     0.6
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                                                                                                                                           0.26                                                                                                20
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            12       14
                                                                                                                                     0.2
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               10
The data are based on information from the standard owners which we have received by mail or from their websites. The production
volumes include the total volume produced per standard including equivalents and overlaps with other standards.                       0                                                                                                        0
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Preferred Virgin Cotton
Directory: Where to find preferred cotton across the globe
                                                                                                                                                                                                              CENTRAL ASIA
This map locates the preferred cotton growing regions. A closer look at the African

                                                                                                                                                               1+99+F 67+33+F 11+23+66F
countries is provided on the next page. Preferred cotton was grown in 33 countries                                                                             KAZAKHSTAN (7)           KYRGYZSTAN                  TAJIKISTAN
in 2016/17. The countries with the largest share of preferred cotton production -
apart from Israel, Madagascar and Thailand - include Brazil, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, as                                                                                 ~1.4%               ~67%                      ~33%
well as Burkina Faso, Cameroon, Mozambique, and Zambia(1).

Key                                                                                                                                                             1,000 of 70,000 mt    8,019 of 12,000 mt       19,405 of 58,000 mt

    Organic
    BCI Standard                                                                                                                                                                         EAST AND SOUTH EAST ASIA
    Cleaner Cotton

                                                                                                                                                                                      1+18+180F 100+F
                                                                                                                                                                                          CHINA (8)                  THAILAND
    REEL
    MyBMP (BCI eq.)                                                                                                                                                                        ~19,5%                     100%
    ABRAPA (BCI eq.)
    Other                                                                                                                                                                            0.95 of 4.9 million mt            4 mt

(1)The figures are based on the data
                                              USA                                                                                                                                                                   SOUTH ASIA
received by the standard owners.

                                               3+97+F                                                                                                                                 19+81+F 2+5+192F
(2) In the Unite, BCI, organic and Cleaner           USA  (2)                                                                                                                             PAKISTAN                   INDIA (9)
Cotton is produced. Organic and Cleaner
Cotton have a market share of
Preferred Virgin Cotton

                                                                                                       100+F 86+14+F 30+70+F 4+3+93F
                                                                                                           MALI (1)              BURKINA FASO (2)                 ETHIOPIA              UGANDA (5)

Directory: Spotlight on Africa                                                                                                                                      ~31%
Preferred Virgin Cotton
Sustainability standards across the globe

ORGANIC (+OCS/GOTS)               Focus Sustaining health of soils, ecosystems          CLEANER COTTON                Focus Cleaning up cotton in California
                                        and people
                                                                                                                Verification / 2nd party monitoring
                           Verification / Verification (annual); certification by 3rd                            certification
                            certification party                                                                   (farm level)
                             (farm level)
                                                                                                                    Chain of Bale identification system - USDA
                               Chain of Identity Preserved; Certification of Supply                                 custody barcode on each bale
                               custody Chain
                                                                                                                   Product Marketed and trademarked as Cleaner
                              Product In store marketing/ on product label.                                       marketing Cotton™
                             marketing 3rd party certification label optional
                                                                                                                     GMOs Yes, but sold separately from non-GMO
                                GMOs No                                                                          permitted?
                            permitted?

                                                                                        COTTON MADE IN AFRICA           Focus    Sustainable African Cotton for a global
FAIRTRADE                         Focus    To make trade fair, empower small scale                                               textile industry
                                           producers and workers and to foster
                                           sustainable livelihoods.                                              Verification / Self-assessment and 3rd party
                                                                                                                  certification certification on field and gin level
                           Verification / Certification by 3rd party                                               (farm level)
                            certification
                             (farm level)                                                                            Chain of    Mass Balance from spinning mill onward
                                                                                                                     custody     (hard identity from field to spinning mill);
                               Chain of Two models: (1) Classic - physically                                                     full traceability possible through Hard
                               custody segregated and traceable, (2) Mass                                                        Identity Preserved (option)
                                        balance - physically traceable until
                                        spinner; CoC maintained through supply                                       Product In store marketing/ on product labeling
                                        chain via online tool                                                       marketing (own label or CmiA hangtag).

                              Product On product and In store marketing.                                               GMOs      No
                             marketing Third party certified (Fairtrade Mark)                                      permitted?

                                 GMOs      No
                             permitted?
                                                                                        REEL COTTON                     Focus    To create more sustainable, traceable
                                                                                                                                 cotton
                                 Focus To transform the market by making                                         Verification / Developed and verified by Flo-Cert (3rd
BETTER COTTON INITIATIVE               Better Cotton a sustainable mainstream                                     certification party)
                                       commodity.                                                                  (farm level)
                           Verification / Self-Assessment, 2nd Party and 3rd                                         Chain of    Bale preserved - procurement links to
                            certification Party Verification                                                         custody     supply chain provided if required
                             (farm level)
                                                                                                                     Product In store and on product marketing
                               Chain of Physical segregation farm to gin; Mass                                      marketing
                               custody balance gin to retailer
                                                                                                                       GMOs      Yes
                              Product      On-product Claims Framework                                             permitted?
                             marketing
                                GMOs Yes
                            permitted?

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Preferred Virgin Cotton
Supporting the transition
There are a number of initiatives         Cotton 2040 launched CottonUp, a            General information                           industry policy, manage and identify
supporting the transition towards         new Guide to Sourcing Sustainable                                                         resources and provide support
                                                                                      Textile Exchange Microsite –                  services to accelerate the growth of
preferred cotton. Collaboration and       Cotton in 2018. This guide provides         aboutorganiccotton.org is a resource
information are key for a successful      practical information and resources to                                                    the organic cotton sector.
                                                                                      space dedicated to spreading the
uptake of preferred cotton.               either start sourcing sustainable cotton    word about organic cotton.                    CottonConnect is an enterprise with
                                          or increase volumes.                                                                      a clear mission to transform the cotton
Key news                                                                              Organic Cotton Accelerator is a
                                          Cotton and coffee industry working                                                        industry for good. CottonConnect
Textile Exchange`s First Regional                                                     multi-stakeholder initiative focused on       delivers services to promote
                                          on joint indicators in Project Delta:       creating a prosperous organic cotton
Organic Cotton Round Table West           The International Coffee Organization                                                     sustainable cotton agriculture and
Africa was held in Koudougou,                                                         sector which benefits everyone —from          develop thriving lives and livelihoods.
                                          (ICO) and the Global Coffee Platform        farmer to consumer.
Burkina Faso in September 2018            (GCP) are collaborating with the                                                          These include BCI, REEL Cotton
in collaboration with Catholic Relief     Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) and          Organic & Fair Cotton Secretariat             Program, Organic, Farmer Business
Services (CRS), USDA and SICOT.           the International Cotton Advisory           (OFCS) - India: Representatives from          School and Women’s Empowerment.
Further round tables include an annual    Committee – Social, Environmental           the Indian organic cotton industry
event held in Izmir focusing on Turkey,                                                                                             Please see also Textile Exchange`s
                                          & Economic Performance of Cotton            have agreed to set up a new organic           Organic Cotton Market Report 2018
Egypt and Central Asia as well as the     (ICAC-SEEP) in order to develop a           and fair cotton secretariat to focus on
Global Organic Cotton Round Table.                                                                                                  for more information.
                                          measurement and reporting framework
West Africa Organic & Fairtrade           that is applicable not only to the coffee
Cotton Coalition was launched at          sector but across different agricultural
the International Cotton and Textile      commodity sectors.
Conference (SICOT) in Koudougou,
Burkina Faso. This coalition aims to
establish reliable market access for
tens of thousands of small farmer
families in West Africa who are
producing organic-fairtrade cotton and
other organic crops.

BACK TO CONTENTS                                                                                                                ©                              |   Page 14
Q&A with Alison Ward

                                            have increased their knowledge and          outreach efforts just 4% of women join           the importance of creating harmonious
                                            also developed the confidence to create     any form of training program that can            communities and the need to include
                                            thriving micro-businesses.                  assist them in their roles as farmers and        men in any training to empower women
                      Alison Ward
                      CEO, CottonConnect
                                                                                        champions within their communities. So           to avoid creating conflict. Societal
                                            I am also excited to work with brands       it is important to offer specific training for   changes take a number of years before
                                            who look beyond the raw material they       women to close the gender gap.                   you begin to see movement.
                                            are buying and consider the social
        What excites you most about         impacts. Kering and SuperDry have both      We must make sure women are not                  It is essential for growing communities

Q       working with women in rural
        cotton communities?
                                            invested in supporting women in organic
                                            cotton communities, with Kering adding
                                                                                        left behind in the current trend towards
                                                                                        using technology, particularly mobile
                                                                                                                                         to be resilient, and so they are often
                                                                                                                                         nervous of changing practices that could
                                            Women’s Right and Life Skills training      phones, as an enabler for agri-extension         affect their crop and income. They might
The potential to improve the livelihoods    and Winter Crop Training to their Organic   services. This means ensuring women              not change all the practices at once or
in rural cotton communities really          Cotton Farmer Training Program. This        have equitable access to and use of              wait to see if something works with a
escalates when you work with women.         follows C&A Foundation’s pioneering         technology, as well as influence over            neighbouring farmer first. Understanding
When women are empowered to take            initiatives to support a thriving organic   how it evolves. It is usually the men in         this, and building the confidence
care of themselves, make decisions,         cotton sector, for example by improving     the household that have mobile phones,           in a program, is key for adoption of
take charge of land and their finances,     women’s business skills through the         so men need to be encouraged to give             sustainable practices.
not only does their household income        Farmer Business School.                     women access to mobile phones.
grow, the entire community economy                                                                                                               Tell us a story of where
benefits.                                   As an implementation partner for BCI,       Traceability and creating a demand                       CottonConnect’s

I have personally seen the benefits of
                                            enabling farmer training for multiple
                                            brand partners, it has been encouraging
                                                                                        for sustainable cotton continues to be
                                                                                        important, which is why it is encouraging        Q       intervention has made a
                                                                                                                                                 difference. How can we
taking a holistic approach when visiting    to see the power of these interventions,    to see the commitment from the                           replicate, scale, and build
CottonConnect’s Women in Cotton             especially in one community where           companies signing the Sustainable                        on this success?
project, supporting 500 women farmers       women were inspired to set up their own     Cotton Communique to use 100%
and adolescent girls in Gujarat, India.     self-help group.                            sustainable cotton by 2025.                      A great example is CottonConnect’s
The program provides a background                                                                                                        work with Primark and the Self-
in literacy, numeracy, rights and health           What are the areas where
to enable women to take advantage           Q      improvement is most                           Why are these problems so
                                                                                                                                         Employed Women’s Association
                                                                                                                                         (SEWA). The Sustainable Cotton
of increased livelihood opportunities,
both within cotton and through
                                                   needed?
                                            Women play key roles in cotton farming
                                                                                        Q        entrenched... what have you
                                                                                                 learned from other areas
                                                                                                                                         Program, based on CottonConnect’s
                                                                                                                                         REEL Cotton program, trained 1,251
supplemental income running their own                                                            where you have worked?
                                            but often do not receive the same                                                            female cotton farmers in the Gujarat
enterprises. Each time I visit, I can see   training, support or pay as men. Our        When meeting with women in the Cocoa             region in India in its first three years.
a transformation in how the women           research found that without specific        Life program in Ghana, I learned about           The program trains female farmers

BACK TO CONTENTS                                                                                                                         ©                              |   Page 15
Q&A with Alison Ward

in sustainable farming methods so          I saw the personal side of the story
they minimize the impact on their          when I visited a family in Gujarat where
local environment and improve their        the wife was involved in the program
livelihoods through increased income.      and the father and daughter were
                                           enrolled in a Farmer Business School,
Farmers participating in the program       part of the REEL Cotton program.
recorded significant results. By the       With the wife’s increased profit,
third year of the program, they saw        she had bought a motorbike for her
an average profit increase of 247%,        husband and he was so proud of her.
a reduction of input costs by 19.2%,       It was great to see the education and
40% reduction in the use of chemical       benefits cascading through the family.
fertilizer, 44% reduction of chemical
pesticide usage, and a 10% water           We are in a great place to build on
usage decrease.                            this success and scale up. It’s always
                                           been my focus to drive women’s
Since the outcomes of the program          participation and it’s rewarding to see
far exceeded expectations, Primark         that we now have 49,500 women
decided in 2016 to substantially scale     enrolled in our agronomic and social
up the initiative to train an additional   programs including India, Pakistan,
10,000 women farmers over the next         China and Peru. We know our model
six years. In total, over 6,000 farmers    works, we have created supply chain
have either received, or are currently     connectivity, and established a base
receiving, training as part of the         from which to accelerate change. I am
program. The farmers are connected         particularly excited to be expanding
directly with Primark’s supply chain       into Pakistan, with a new project
and the cotton is used in its first        working with 10,000 women.
sustainable cotton product, a range
of women’s pyjamas. It’s incredible to
have this level of transparency from
farmer to garment.

                                                                                      Photo: CottonConnect

BACK TO CONTENTS                                                                                             ©   |   Page 16
Preferred Cotton                                                                                                                                        Examples of commitments:

                                                                                                                                                        Nudie committed to 100% organic cotton
Commitments                                                                                                                                             by 2017.

                                                                                                                                                        Stella McCartney commit to100% organic
The commitment of brands and                                the 100% by 2025 pledge to date are:         use at least 35 percent sustainable            cotton by 2020.
retailers is key to accelerating the                        ASOS, EILEEN FISHER, Greenfibres,            cotton by 2020, with 10 percent of
preferred cotton market.                                    H&M, IKEA, Kering, Levi’s, Lindex,           the total volume being organic cotton.         All EILEEN FISHER cotton and linen will be
                                                            M&S, Nike, Sainsbury’s, F&F at Tesco,        The aim is to increase the proportion          organic by 2020.
The market for preferred cotton                             Woolworths, Adidas, A-Z, BikBOk,             of sustainable cotton to 70 percent by
has been developed and shaped                                                                                                                           Mantis World commit to 100% organic
                                                            Burberry, Burton Snowboards,                 2025, with 20 percent being organic            cotton by 2021.
through the commitment of engaged                           Carlings, Coyuchi, Cubus, Days               cotton. The following standards apply
individuals from its beginning.                             like This, Dressmann, Hanky Panky,           to purchasing of organic cotton:               C&A’s 2020 goal is for 100 percent of the
To scale the preferred cotton market                        House of Fraser, Indigenous Designs,         the Global Organic Textile Standard            cotton they use to be more sustainable.
a Sustainable Cotton Pledge(1)                              KappAhl, Kathmandu, Mantis World,            (GOTS), the International Association of       In 2017, 67 percent of the cotton C&A
was initiated by the International                          MetaWear, Otto Group, prAna,                 Natural Textile Industry (NATURTEXTIL          sold was either certified organic cotton or
Sustainability Unit (ISU) under His                         SkunkFunk, Timberland, Urban, Volt           IVN) standard, the Textile Exchange            sourced as Better Cotton.
Royal Highness The Prince of Wales.                         and Wow. The pledge is still open            Organic Content Standard (OCS), the
                                                            and brands and retailers are invited to      bioRe Social & Environmental Standard          IKEA is committed to 100 percent
Since the closing of the ISU in March                                                                                                                   sustainable cotton and reached this target
2018, it was agreed that Textile                            submit their commitments here.               and all the organic standards forming
                                                                                                         part of the IFOAM Family of Standards.         in 2015. For IKEA sustainable cotton
Exchange would take over the role of                        Brands are also publicly committing                                                         means that the cotton is either recycled or
                                                                                                         (2)
the initiative`s Secretariat.                               to using 100 percent organic.                                                               grown with less water, chemical fertilizer
38 major brands have pledged to                                                                          Cotton Pledges Against Forced                  and pesticides.
                                                            Examples are Nudie, Stella McCartney,        Labor
achieve 100 percent sustainable                             EILEEN FISHER, SkunkFunk                                                                    H&M’s aim is for all cotton in their range to
cotton by 2025, an additional 25                            and Mantis World. Alongside the              Over 250 industry brands and retailers         come from sustainable sources by 2020
brands since May 2017.                                      Sustainable Cotton Challenge, other          have signed the Uzbek Cotton Pledge,           – organic cotton, recycled cotton or Better
The 2025 Sustainable Cotton                                 initiatives have also committed to           committing to end the practice of              Cotton.
Challenge challenges retailers and                          preferred cotton.                            forced labor in the cotton sector in
                                                                                                         Uzbekistan. Companies are now                  By 2020, Levi’s aim to use 100 percent
brands to champion the greater use                          German Partnership for Sustainable                                                          sustainable cotton, including 95 percent
of sustainable cotton by aiming that                                                                     invited to sign the Turkmen Cotton
                                                            Textiles - 70 percent sustainable            Pledge to end government-sponsored             Better Cotton, plus a mix of organic cotton
100 percent of the cotton from their                        cotton by 2025 with 20 percent                                                              and recycled cotton.
supply chains comes from the most                                                                        forced labor in Turkmenistan’s cotton
                                                            being organic.                               sector.
sustainable sources.                                                                                                                                    adidas committed to using 100%
                                                            Alongside individual goals, Partnership                                                     Sustainable Cotton by 2018. For adidas,
The brands that have committed to                           members have also jointly agreed to                                                         BCI is the primary standard.

                           (1) https://textileexchange.org/2025-sustainable-cotton-challenge/.
BACK TO CONTENTS           (2) https://www.textilbuendnis.com/en/what-we-do/individual-responsibility.                                              ©                             |   Page 17
Q&A with Dr. Jürgen Janssen

                                                 and Textile Exchange. Given the global          far two Partnership Initiatives running,            You’ve been focusing on
                       Dr. Jürgen Janssen
                                                 nature of garment supply chains, for the
                                                 Textiles Partnership as a national initiative
                                                                                                 one focusing on labor conditions in
                                                                                                 spinning mills in Southern India and the
                                                                                                                                             Q       cotton primarily, which
                                                                                                                                                     fiber(s) do you head to next?
                       Head of the Secretariat
                       of the Partnership of
                                                 it is crucial to cooperate with other           other on chemical and environmental
                                                                                                                                             In July, the new expert group of the
                       Sustainable Textiles      players.                                        management in Asian factories. Finally,
                                                                                                                                             Textiles Partnership on best available
                                                                                                 the Textiles Partnership provides a
                                                         How does membership work                                                            manmade fibers kicked off its work.
        It’s been a big year for the             Q       and what are the unique
                                                                                                 unique platform for mutual support and
                                                                                                 learning for our members.
                                                                                                                                             The objective is to agree on minimum

Q       Partnership, what are you
        most proud of?
                                                         benefits for members?
                                                 The Textiles Partnership is a multi-
                                                                                                                                             requirements for manmade fibers
                                                                                                                                             regarding raw material, production,
                                                                                                         Tell us more about how your         product toxicity and end-of-life. In
In 2018, for the first time all members of
the Textiles Partnership had to publish
                                                 stakeholder initiative with some 130
                                                 members, including companies,                   Q       sustainable cotton targets
                                                                                                         work?
                                                                                                                                             addition, the expert group will identify
                                                                                                                                             areas where members need support
their roadmaps with their annual targets         business associations, NGOs, trade
                                                                                                                                             and guidance. The focus is on
related to sustainability in textile supply      unions, standard-setting organizations          The Textiles Partnership has agreed on
                                                                                                                                             manmade cellulose fibers, synthetic
chains. 116 members submitted their              and the German Federal Government.              mandatory targets regarding the use
                                                                                                                                             fibers and biobased plastics.
roadmaps with a total of 1,300 specific          Company members include not only                of sustainable cotton. At the individual
targets. This is a major step forward,           German, but also international brands           level, all companies that purchase
as it means that many members have               and retailers. Members are required             cotton have to increase the share of
revealed detailed information for the first      to take on their individual responsibility      sustainable cotton annually from 2018
time. External experts have reviewed the         to improve environmental and working            on. In addition, at the aggregate level,
roadmaps.                                        conditions along the textile and garment        the collective target for the Textiles
                                                 supply chain. This is reflected in the          Partnership as a whole is to use at least
In addition, members submitted reports           annual roadmaps and progress reports            35% sustainable cotton by 2020, with
on the progress they made in 2017.               already mentioned. The unique feature           10% of the total volume required to
From next year on, all members will              of the Textiles Partnership is that it brings   be organic cotton. By 2025, the total
publish the progress reports, too. The           together a range of actors from different       proportion of sustainable cotton will
Textiles Partnership has also started            stakeholder groups pursuing the same            then rise to 70% and the proportion of
strategic cooperation arrangements with          goals. Within the context of so-called          organic cotton to 20%.
several other European and international         Partnership Initiatives, members
initiatives in the past year, including          have the possibility to participate in
the Dutch Agreement on Sustainable               broader actions aimed at achieving
Garments and Textiles, Sustainable               systemic change on the ground in
Apparel Coalition, the ACT Initiative            production countries. There are so

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Recycled Cotton
A closer look at recycled cotton

The Ellen MacArthur Foundation                                      attracts increasing interest for denim
Recycled Cotton
Who’s doing what in recycled cotton?

Initiatives supporting the transition    which are produced with 100%
                                         recycled fibers. These yarns contain
The Alliance for Responsible             a high percentage of mechanically
Denim (ARD) is a collaboration           recycled cotton, which is blended with
between Made-By, Circle Economy          recycled polyester from PET bottles.
and the Amsterdam University of          Read more in our Insider Series.
Applied Sciences. The project “Post-
Consumer Recycled Denim Standard”        Martex Fiber offers Eco2cotton®
led by Circle Economy focuses on         which stands for recycled fiber
developing a preferred industry buying   made from pre-consumer fibers and
standard, defining a business model      clippings which are sorted by color
and road map for the introduction        and blended. The resulting cotton-like
and scaling up of Post-Consumer-         fluff can be used as a fill for stuffing
Recycled-Denim (PCRD) production.        and pads or for spinning new yarns.
                                         The regenerated fibers retain the color
Textile Exchange organized a session     of the original textile, so less dyes and
“The Second Life of Cotton” at the       harmful chemicals pollute our planet.
Textile Exchange Conference in Milan     For yarns made with Eco2cotton®,
in 2018.                                 other acrylic, polyester or eco fibers
Examples of suppliers                    are added to enhance performance
                                         and color.
Artistic Milliners is a Pakistan based
company producing post-consumer          Velener Textil GmbH has won the
recycled cotton.                         Discover Natural Fibres Initiative
                                         (DNFI) Innovation in Natural Fibers
Belda Lloréns is a Spanish yarn          Award for 2018. Its WECYCLED®
manufacturer offering recycled yarns     system addresses the issue that 30
branded EcoLife®.                        percent of yarn used in weaving mills,
                                         knitting mills and garment making
Geetanjali Woollens is an Indian         remains unused. The remaining yarn
company offering recycled cotton fiber   is separated from the paper cone.
and yarn.                                The recycled fibers are blended with
                                         responsible virgin cotton into new
Hilaturas Ferre has developed its                                                    Photo: Ferre Kweskin
                                         yarn.2)
RECOVER range of yarns and threads

BACK TO CONTENTS                                                                                            ©   |   Page 20
Other Plant-
    Based Fibers       add credit
                               Photo: xxx

BACK TO CONTENTS   ©       |   Page 21
57+18+5421F
                                                                                                                                                      OTHER PLANT-BASED FIBERS
Other Plant-based Fibers
A range of choices

Other plant-based fibers had a market                                                                                                                               5.8
share of around 5.5 percent of global
                                                                                                                                                                million mt
fiber production in 2017(1).                                                                                                                                                                                             8+ million households
There is a diversity of other plant-
based fibers produced but not all of                                                                                                                                                                                           are estimated to be involved
them are used in the textile industry.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                               in the production of natural
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                plant-based fibers such as
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 jute, coir, flax and hemp.
Beyond cotton other plant-based                                                                                                       Jute, Kenaf & Allied Fibers      Coir   Flax fiber and tow, ex scutching mill  
fibers include jute, kenaf, coir, flax,                                                                                                 Other, not specified elsewhere   Sisal, Hennequen & similar hard fibers  
sisal, ramie, kapok, abaca and hemp.                                                                                                   Bast fibers   Ramie   Kapok   Abaca   Hemp fiber and tow

Jute has the largest market share
of all other plant-based fibers
at around 50-60%. The most                                                                                                                                         OTHER PLANT-BASED FIBER PRODUCTION (MILLION MT)
important other plant-based fibers                                                                                                            6
for the textile industry are flax (linen)
and hemp.                                                                                                                                     5

It is estimated that more than eight
                                                                                                                                              4
million households are involved in the
production of these other natural plant-
based fibers(2).                                                                                                                              3

                                                                                                                                              2

                                                                                                                                              1

                                                                                                                                              0
                                                                                                                                                      2008       2009       2010      2011       2012       2013        2014      2015     2016       2017e

                                                                                                                                                               Jute, Kenaf & Allied Fibers         Coir         Flax Fiber and Tow, ex scutching mill  
(1) Source: DNFI Website - Natural fibers production reaches 30 million mt published on 29th July 2017; plus Textile Exchange                                     Other Not Specified Elsewhere          Sisal, Hennequen and similar hard fibers  
estimate for 2017 based on 2016 figures; total fiber volume calculated by Textile Exchange based on various sources (see chapter on
Global Fiber Volume). (2) Source: DNFI Website - Natural fibers production reaches 30 million mt published on 29th July 2017.                             Bast Fibers (Other)         Ramie           Kapok             Abaca       Hemp fiber and tow

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Other Plant-based Fibers
Hemp, linen, and beyond

Hemp                                       USA.

Hemp for fibers is mainly grown in         9Fiber is a USA based company
China but there are also emerging          dedicated to delivering innovative,
initiatives for example in the United      responsible and sustainable solutions
States.                                    to cannabis and hemp biomass
                                           waste recycling. The 9Fiber patented
Hemp requires fewer inputs and has a       solution™ converts unwanted waste
lower impact in cultivation compared       material from the cannabis and
to other fibers. A small number of         industrial hemp industries into usable
suppliers offer organic and recycled       bast fiber and hurd to be used in a
hemp.                                      wide variety of products including
Examples:                                  fibers for the textile industry.

Hempfortex is a main supplier of           Research is underway into hemp
hemp textiles. The vertically integrated   and jute as feedstock for manmade
company uses hemp grown in China           cellulosics and even biobased leather.
and manufactures yarn and knitted
and woven fabrics made from hemp.

Earth Alive Clean Technologies,
a leading Canadian Clean-Tech
company, announced the launch of
the Clean Fiber Initiative in 2018,
a collaborative research project to
improve the production of natural
fiber crops in Canada and around the
world. Earth Alive currently has hemp
trials underway with conventional and
organic growers in Canada, and the

                                                                                    Photo: Hempfortex

BACK TO CONTENTS                                                                                        ©   |   Page 23
Other Plant-based Fibers
Hemp, linen, and beyond

Linen                                         CRAiLAR Technologies is a
                                              Canadian cleantech company which
Flax is mainly grown in China and             has developed its proprietary CRAiLAR
Europe.                                       fiber processing technology. This
Flax has a comparatively small                enzymatic process transforms flax
environmental impact since it needs           into soft fibers which are functionally
fewer inputs in cultivation than other        equivalent to manmade cellulosics.
natural fibers.                               And beyond - nettle, lotus, kapok
Some suppliers also offer organic linen       Further plant-based fibers used in
which does not use any synthetic              the textile industry include nettle,
chemicals in production.                      kapok and others. Innovators include
Examples:                                     Himalayan Wild Fibers which
                                              extracts textile fiber from a nettle plant
Libeco is a Belgian-based company             that grows wild in the mountain forests
that collaborates with a group of             of the Himalayas, Samatao Lotus
growers of organic flax in France and         Textiles which extracts the fibers from
processes this flax to organic linen          the lotus plant and FLOCUS™, a
products.                                     brand producing yarn blends and filling
                                              made with kapok.
TERRE DE LIN is a French
cooperative specialized in the
production of textile flax (linen) from the
seeds to the fiber. With 650 farmers
and 240 employees the cooperative
produces 15 percent of the world’s
quality flax. Visit our Insiders Series for
Q&A.

BACK TO CONTENTS                                                                           ©   |   Page 24
Animal-based
                   Fibers & Materials

BACK TO CONTENTS                   ©    |   Page 25
Down &
                   Feathers
BACK TO CONTENTS     ©   |   Page 26
Preferred Virgin Down
Production facts and figures(1)

The global production volume of                                       Responsible Down Standard                                    >270,000 mt                      70–90%                              75-90%
down and feather is difficult to                                                                                                   of down and feathers             produced in                          from ducks,
quantify. Rough estimates indicate                                    The Responsible Down Standard is                               produced globally                 China                           rest from geese
that the global down and feather                                      gaining importance. The number of
production volume has increased to                                    Responsible Down Standard (RDS)
                                                                      certified sites increased from 108 in                                                                     RDS
more than 270,000 mt per year(1).                                                                                                                                          (NO. OF SITES)
                                                                      2014 to 696 in 2017(3).
70-90 percent of the down production                                                                                                     800
comes from China(1). The global                                       Traceable Down Standard                                                                                                                      696

down and feather market is highly
                                                                      The number of Global Traceable                                     600                                                539
fragmented with many small and
                                                                      Down Standard (TDS) certified sites
medium producers.
                                                                      increased from seven in 2016 to nine                               400
Around 75-90 percent of the down                                      in 2017(3).
                                                                                                                                                                     239
comes from ducks, most other down                                                                                                        200
                                                                      Downpass Standard                                                               108
comes from geese(2).
                                                                      The number of Downpass certified                                     0
Increasing concerns about the
                                                                      sites increased to 4500 in 2017. Due                                            2014           2015               2016                     2017
treatment of animals have let to
                                                                      to a change in the standard system, a
the development of animal welfare
                                                                      comparison with the previous year is
standards for down. Key standards
                                                                      not possible(3).                                                               DOWNPASS                                          TDS
include the Responsible Down
                                                                                                                                                   (NO. OF SITES)                                 (NO. OF SITES)
Standard (RDS), the Global Traceable
Down Standard (TDS) and Downpass.                                                                                                         5000                               10
                                                                                                                                                       4500                                                         9
These standards award and ensure
that there is:                                                                                                                            4000                                8              7

• no live-plucking                                                                                                                        3000                                6
• no force-feeding
• broader animal welfare (depending                                                                                                       2000                                4
  on standard)
                                                                                                                                          1000                                2
(1) Source: OIA - Priority Issues Brief: Down published in May 2016 - referencing EOG; communication with the EOG; cross-checked
with other sources such as cn-down.com and FAO database, IDFL Info Worldwide Sources of Down and Feathers 2006. *These
figures do not include recycled down. For recycled down see the chapter on “Recycled Down”. (2) Based on FAO database and                      0                              0
conversations with industry experts (3) Source: Data received by mail from the standard owners. Please note that these numbers                         2017                             2016                     2017
include down processing sites.

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Preferred Virgin Down
Directory: Where to find preferred down across the globe
This map locates key production regions and certified sites in 2017.

                RESPONSIBLE DOWN STANDARD (RDS)                                         DOWNPASS                                           GLOBAL TRACEABLE DOWN STANDARD (TDS)

                696 sites across 26 countries                                           4,500 sites across                                 9 sites across five countries:
                Top 10 producing countries:                                             9 countries:                                       • USA: 3
                • China: 418                                                            • China: 1,970                                     • Vietnam: 3
                • South Korea: 92                                                       • Ukraine: 946                                     • Bangladesh: 1
                • USA: 33                                                               • Germany: 615                                     • China: 1
                • Poland: 21                                                            • France: 284                                      • Ireland: 1
                • Germany: 19                                                           • Poland: 213
                • UK: 14                                                                • Russia: 190
                • France: 12                                                            • Hungary: 143
                • Hong Kong: 10                                                         • Ireland: 142
                • Italy: 9
                • Vietnam: 9

                                                                                                             Tip: How to find suppliers of preferred down

                                                                                                             Check out the Textile Exchange database or contact NSF or Downpass for a
(1) Please note that these figures include both down production and processing sites.                        list of certified suppliers of preferred virgin down.

BACK TO CONTENTS                                                                                                                                 ©                            |   Page 28
Preferred Virgin Down
Standards update

                                                                                                                                     “
Responsible Down Standard (RDS)                                        autumn 2016. The results of a public                              In March of 2018, we traveled to China to visit the RDS supply chain
                                                                       survey, as well as the feedback from                              in preparation for the upcoming revision. We partnered with two
In 2017, Textile Exchange initiated the                                animal welfare organizations, testing                             Certification Bodies: Control Union and IDFL to coordinate the visits,
revision of the RDS 2.0. This revision                                 institutes, certification companies,
is expected to be completed by the                                                                                                       and we were accompanied by NSF International for some of the
                                                                       NGOs and trade partners, flowed
end of 2018. Within the International                                                                                                    audits.
                                                                       into this development. The revised
Working Group, there are 31 voting                                     standard is valid from 01 January                                 During our visit, we observed raising farms, slaughterhouses,
member organizations and over 100                                      2017 and stands for the exclusion of                              hatcheries, and parent farms. While on our trip, we met a young family
individual members of the group. You                                   feathers and down from live animals,
can read more about the revision on                                                                                                      that owns a farm and has a contract to care for birds owned by a
                                                                       material from foie gras production as
the standard`s website(1).                                                                                                               nearby slaughterhouse. They live in a small apartment attached to
                                                                       well as rearing control. In May 2017
                                                                                                                                         the shelter for the birds. They provide direct care for the flock of birds
Downpass                                                               the standard and the implementation
                                                                       rules were edited(2).                                             under their contract. They explained to us how they care for the birds,
The first version of the Downpass                                                                                                        including details about handling, feed, access to water, and keeping
standard was completed in June                                         Global Traceable Down Standard                                    the baby chicks warm in their early days. With each flock of birds,
2016. As part of a continuous                                          (TDS)                                                             they also receive the feed, medicine, and books for record-keeping.
improvement process, a new version                                     There was no revision of the TDS in                               This trip highlighted the importance in providing training and education
of the standard was developed in                                       the reporting period(3).                                          to farmers working with the standard, to ensure our goals are being
                                                                                                                                         met. We also plan to review several of the farm, slaughter, and
                                                                                                                                         transport criteria to ensure they are truly the highest possible level of
                                                                                                                                         animal welfare for the birds.

                                                                                                                                                                                     Anne Gillespie and Ashley Gill

                                                                                                                                                                                          Integrity & Standards Team,
                                                                                                                                                                                                    Textile Exchange

(1) http://responsibledown.org/for-business/rds-international-working-group/. (2) https://www.downpass.com (3) http://www.nsf.org/
newsroom/nsf-global-traceable-down-standard-explained

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Preferred Virgin Down
Supporting the transition

There are a number of initiatives            by the European Outdoor Group in
working towards preferred down.              collaboration with Textile Exchange
Collaboration and information are key        and the Down Round Table.
for a successful uptake of preferred
down.                                        Textile Exchange Responsible
                                             Down Standard (RDS) International
Textile Exchange Preferred Down              Working Group works on a regular
Working Group and Round                      revision of the Responsible Down
Table supports the knowledge,                Standards (RDS).
understanding, and sustainable
development of the preferred down            Textile Exchange Responsible
market. The global working group was         Down Microsite informs about
initiated by the European Outdoor            the Responsible Down Standard
Group (EOG) in 2014 and transitioned         and its revision process: http://
to Textile Exchange in 2018.                 responsibledown.org/

The European Outdoor Group (EOG)             IDFL is the world’s largest down
led the Global Stakeholder Roundtable        and feather testing institute with
on ‘Responsible Down and Animal              laboratories in the USA, Europe,
Welfare’ before it transitioned to Textile   China, and Taiwan. See Q&A on the
Exchange. EOG published a Recycled           next page.
Down Report in 2018.

A down stakeholder survey was
conducted in 2018 to find out more
about the preferred down market.
At the time of the report launch, the
survey was still open. 59 participants
including brands and retailers,
suppliers and other stakeholders have
submitted their answers by October
2018. The survey was designed

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Q&A with Matthew Lieber

                                    in the down and feather supply chain.                   2. Down is naturally a “green”               been made in the transparency and
Matthew Lieber
                                    In addition to our own audit systems,                   sustainable product. However, there are      verification of animal welfare practices
Managing Director, IDFL Europe
                                    IDFL provides certification services for                sometimes chemical treatments and            due to the active involvement of the
                                    the Responsible Down Standard (RDS),                    inputs used to enhance quality. Some         feather and down industry and their
        How are you working to
Q
                                    Downpass, EDFA, and J-TAS. IDFL has                     of these unwanted treatments may lead        impact on the meat industry through
        make the down industry more conducted audits for entire textile supply              to increased dust / allergens and poor       implementation of animal welfare
        sustainable?                chains.                                                 performance which impact consumer            standards. This impact has provided
Feather and down are naturally a                                                            confidence in down products.                 needed clarity and confirmation of
                                                      What are the biggest                                                               the humane treatment of waterfowl
very sustainable product – being
a by-product of the meat industry
which typically requires strict health
                                              Q       challenges when it comes
                                                      to shifting the needle on
                                                                                            3. Consumer demand for down
                                                                                            products has been on the rise in the
                                                                                                                                         that is typically regulated by the meat
                                                                                                                                         industry, but just less transparent. We
                                                      down?                                 past few years which has also increased
and safety requirements. Consumer                                                                                                        have seen an increased capability in
                                                                                            the price. This increase in demand           traceability and overall management
demand for transparency of products           1. There always seems to be a constant
                                                                                            combined with the impact of avian flu        systems and best practices. In terms
and the processes and inputs used to          challenge of verification of animal welfare
                                                                                            and other environmental policies, which      of sustainability, there has been an
create them has led to the necessity          practices – mainly focusing on force
                                                                                            decreases supply, cause price spikes         increased demand of recycled down
for testing services that validate            feeding and live-plucking, but also other
                                                                                            and uncertainty in the market place. This    and feather. New technologies in
sustainable claims. IDFL provides help        practices involving handling and general
                                                                                            uncertainty in price may lead purchasers     down and feather processes and
in understanding regulatory and market-       health of the waterfowl. It is common
                                                                                            to find other alternatives such as           also fabric creations lead to high
driven sustainability testing requirements.   knowledge now that live-plucking is
                                                                                            polyester or other synthetic fills.          quality, fashionable finished products,
Through evaluation and analysis, our          a very small (
Recycled Down
A closer look

It is estimated that in Germany                    post-consumer recycled down and
alone, the bed feather processing                  feathers as part of their Sustainovation
industry generates around 950 mt                   initiative. Downlite also offers RDS and
of waste feathers(1). Down recycling               TDS certified down.
is an important approach to reduce
resource consumption and address                   The Spanish company Navarpluma
the waste feathers. Recycled down                  offers 100 percent recycled down
can be from pre- or post-consumer                  branded NEOKDUN® originating
sources.                                           from the recycling of bedding/apparel
                                                   finished products that have reached
Recycling of these materials not only              the end of their product life cycle. It
helps to divert waste from landfills and           also offers RDS certified down.
low-value pathways but also to save
resources such as energy and water                 Re:Down is a company specialized
used in down production.                           in the down recycling made from
                                                   post-consumer products. Re:Down
Standards                                          produce a garden fertilizer from
                                                   feathers that do not make the grade.
Standards used for recycled down
include the Recycled Content                       Rohdex is a supplier of down certified
Standard (RCS), Global Recycled                    to RDS and Downpass as well as
Standard (GRS), and the SCS                        recycled down certified to the GRS.
Recycled Claim. Further information
on these standards is provided in the
chapter on “Sustainability Standards”.

Examples

The USA based company Downlite
launched a new innovation called Re/
charged down in 2017, GRS certified

(1) European Down and Feather Association (EDFA)

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Preferred Down
Commitments to preferred down

                                                                                      “
The number of apparel, outdoor and          RDS - International Working Group             We’re excited that since we gifted the RDS standard to Textile
home textile companies that have                                                          Exchange and the industry, the RDS is now on its third revision with
publicly committed to preferred down        Around 30 brands, retailers, suppliers,
                                                                                          a group of diverse stakeholders contributing their expertise and
increases each year, with over 40           certification bodies and NGOs are part
                                            of the Responsible Down International         feedback to further improve the standard.
brands and retailers making public
commitments to the Responsible              Working Group (RDS-IWG).                                                                             James Rogers,
Down Standard (RDS).                        Suppliers engaged in the RDS-IWG                                                           Director of Sustainability,
Examples for public commitments:            include:                                                                                             VF Corporation

Columbia has committed to 100               • Allied Feather and Down
percent RDS-certified down and              • Downlite
feathers throughout its global line.*       • Navarpluma
(excl. Japanese subsidiary).                • Sustainable Down Source
Esprit ensures that 100 percent of
their down and feathers are sourced
according to the Responsible Down
Standard.

From Fall 2017, Tommy Hilfiger
confirmed that all their down products
will be certified to the Responsible
Down Standard.

From Fall 2017 product season,
all Patagonia’s virgin down was
certified to the Global Traceable Down
Standard (Global TDS), Advanced
certification level by NSF International.

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Wool

       Wool
                              add credit

                                                Photo: xxx

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Preferred Virgin Wool

                                                                                                                                                 96+4+F 1+1+98F
                                                                                                                                               WOOL BY TYPE IN 2017e                         PREFERRED WOOL MARKET SHARE IN 2017
Production facts and figures(1)

With an annual production volume                                        Since the RWS only launched in
                                                                                                                                                            ~1.2
of more than one million mt, wool                                       2016, the market share is still low at                                                                                                          ~1%
                                                                                                                                                           million mt
is the most important animal-based                                      below one percent of the global wool
fiber. Sheep wool accounts for                                          production.
approximately 95 percent of all wool.
Alpaca, Angora Rabbit, Camelhair,                                       The RWS ensures animal welfare                                        Sheep wool (95%)          Other wool (5%)                  Organic (1%)   Responsible (
Preferred Virgin Wool
Directory: Where to find wool certified to the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS)
This map locates RWS certified farms and wool processing sites in 2017.

RESPONSIBLE WOOL STANDARD (RWS)

15 COUNTRIES - 235 SITES incl.
161 sites involved in both farms and processing,
19 in farms only and
55 in the processing only

RWS-CERTIFIED FARMS                               RWS-CERTIFIED
                                                  PROCESSING SITES
180 farms in six
countries                                         216 processing sites
                                                  in 15 countries
•   South Africa: 130**
•   Uruguay: 28**                                 •   South Africa: 130**
•   Australia: 14 + 3**= 17                       •   Uruguay: 28**
•   New Zealand: 3*                               •   China: 26
•   Argentina: 1                                  •   USA: 6
•   USA: 1                                        •   Argentina: 5
                                                  •   Taiwan: 5
                                                  •   Germany: 4
                                                  •   Australia: 3**
                                                  •   Italy: 3
                                                  •   Bulgaria: 1
                                                  •   Hong Kong: 1
                                                  •   Japan: 1
                                                  •   New Zealand: 1
                                                  •   UK: 1
                                                  •   Thailand: 1

                                                                                                                                        Tip: How to find suppliers of preferred wool

       Countries with farms and processing                                                                                              Check out the Textile Exchange and organic standard databases for certified
       Countries with processing only                                                                                                   suppliers of preferred wool.

*Please note that due to incomplete data at the time of publication, the numbers for New Zealand do not include individual farms. The
actual number of certified units is even higher.
**These sites are involved in farm and processing activities.

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Preferred Virgin Wool
Standards update

Responsible Wool Standard (RWS)                                        grown under the ZQ Accreditation                              the land so that it may be passed                Governmental regulation
                                                                       program (ZQ Merino and ZQ Premium                             to future generations. Wools of
The Responsible Wool Standard                                          Wool) can now be sold as RWS                                  New Zealand has been inspected                   New Zealand bans sheep mulesing
(RWS) has been registered as a                                         certified.                                                    and assessed according to the
quality assurance scheme within the                                                                                                                                                   New Zealand has become the first-
                                                                                                                                     Responsible Wool Standard (RWS).                 wool producing country to officially ban
Australian Wool Exchange (AWEX).                                       Ovis21 combines a Grassland                                   The intended launch of new RWS
                                                                       Regeneration and Sustainability                                                                                sheep mulesing. The new regulation
In a meaningful step towards                                                                                                         approved consumer goods is in                    will go into effect on October 1, 2018.
                                                                       Standard and with the RWS.                                    2018. Wools of New Zealand has also
integrating the RWS into existing
trading models, the RWS has been                                       Ovis21 is a network of more than                              worked with EU Ecolabel to develop               Australia - shift in the mulesing
registered as a quality assurance                                      160 producers and 22 studs in                                 the world’s 1st on farm accreditation            debate
scheme within the Australian Wool                                      seven Argentine provinces as well                             system for greasy wool.
                                                                                                                                                                                      There was also a shift in the mulesing
Exchange (AWEX) wool auction trading                                   the south of Chile and Uruguay. The                           Fibershed - Climate-Beneficial™                  debate in Australia (see for example
system end of 2016. This step will                                     network includes over one million                             wool                                             AWI on the next page).
allow woolgrowers and brokers in                                       sheep. Ovis 21 promotes a culture of
Australia to register their wool clips as                              grassland regeneration and biodiversity                       Fibershed is a California based
RWS Certified and will appear in the                                   so the land will sustain people,                              organization which develops regional
auction catalogue as “RWS” so that                                     their businesses and communities.                             fiber systems that build soil & protect
wool buyers can easily identify RWS                                    Their Grassland Regeneration and                              the health of the biosphere. Fibershed
wool in the Australian auction system.                                 Sustainability Standard and the                               is the initiator of the Climate Beneficial
                                                                       Rangeland Health Index covers these                           Wool Program which is grounded in
ZQ Merino Accreditation Program                                        ambition. To cover the animal welfare                         an effort to scale the implementation
and RWS Alignment                                                      as well, Ovis21 has adopted the                               of Carbon Farming to create carbon
Textile Exchange and The New                                           Responsible Wool Standard (RWS).                              sinks. The wool of the participants
Zealand Merino Company Ltd.                                                                                                          is marketed as Climate-Beneficial™
                                                                       Wools of New Zealand and RWS                                  wool.
recently signed a Memorandum
of Understanding (MOU) detailing                                       Wools of New Zealand is owned
the alignment between the ZQ                                           by the people who grow the wool
Accreditation program and the RWS.                                     – farming families committed to
As a result of this agreement, wool                                    sustainable practices and caring for

(1) http://responsibledown.org/for-business/rds-international-working-group/. (2) https://www.downpass.com (3) http://www.nsf.org/
newsroom/nsf-global-traceable-down-standard-explained

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