Presenting a Collection in the Time of - COVID 19
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Presenting a Collection in the Time of
COVID 19
FBS C19 Issue 12:
24.07.20
Rick Owens
Since the last report there has a positive avalanche of new collections being
launched. Couture, menswear, Pret a Porter, Cruise and everything in between,
indeed some collections themselves seem to be a little of everything. On top of this,
the methods are an assortment, from a look book online, to a basic old style
catwalk with a socially distanced and masked audience. Some things have been
good at basic communication but uninspiring, some have been great in concept but
not so successful in practice, and final outcome. The over experimental and
elaborate can be just as unsuccessful as the boring basic. Yet, the key to all this is
after months of global pandemic the global fashion business is emerging as strong
and creative. The choices are widening daily as more ideas are being tested, more
thought is being applied to the way forward. More people are realising that, at least
for the moment, we are not jumping straight back into a fashion week exactly as it
was this time last year.
The purpose of these reports has always been about facts, and we have avoided statistics, and information about the virus itself, however right now it is obvious that the following are correct:- outbreaks and new cases are reoccurring across the globe, an instant vaccine is some months away, a vaccine will never be 100% effective, travel is problematic, we are still learning about COVID 19 and, not only it’s treatment, but the long term effects. So, all these factors are having, and will continue to have an effect on the global fashion industry at all levels, from the lower mass produced product through to artisan or couture special pieces. Right now, there is simply no reason to ignore the virus, but responses can be dictated by many factors. Finance, company size, manufacturing position, price level, online selling, ownership, and so many more things. The simplest move within a company right now can have a knock-on effect on the balance, or the strength, of the brand. Today one thing is emerging also clearly which is communication does not require creatives to all be in the same room, we can exchange ideas via many different media, and we can discuss face to face across time zones, through some format or the other. In this week report we cover key shows and collections, we look at what people are trying to do to engage our attention and promote their brand and it’s products. We look at factors which are arising in business generally which are of interest. The key themes remain constant - gender, race, culture, ethical and sustainable, sourcing, and value. Gender and its discussion throws up definitions of feminine, masculine, trans, queer and many many other conversations. Race is not just a hot topic, especially for fashion it’s been important for decades, now we are confronting it. Culture and its appropriation within fashion ability goes back centuries, we are questioning it at last. Ethical and sustainable is in direct relation to the number of products produced, and their ability to be re used in some way or another, plus our understanding of cleaning, washing and laundry is high on the fashion agenda. Sourcing and manufacture simply means who makes my clothes, what are their conditions like and what is their reward? We should finally be asking what is the value in these pieces? Can they be resold, reworn, how many times will I use them? These themes, topics, movements and concerns all prompt one thing in the world of fashion; ‘discussion’. We have to talk about these things, we have to exchange ideas, viewpoints and knowledge. Then we have to act. The huge unanswerable question is what do you do about those who don’t care? Does anyone have an answer for those who will not listen, and will not change? This applies to the basic rhythm of fashion. Will fashion not change? Why was this outpouring of collections and ideas so vital, so essential?
No one knows what to do with all the summer stockpiled up right now, and we’re
pushing more, new, must haves, trends, hundreds of pieces of clothing much of
which we don’t need, already have, or have no where to wear, and no occasion to
display.
For fashion creatives and the brands, of course we need to continue, but is more
product the right way?
Tony Glenville
Fashion Commentator
Note:
The shows ceased to be as neatly packaged, menswear and womenswear shown
together, a late couture entry or the early appearance of a menswear collection
meant that overlaps were unavoidable.
Hermes 2011
Maison Margiela:
Hours of John Galliano chatting, explaining, developing and communicating his
latest work for Maison Margiela was fascinating for so many reasons. Firstly, for the
first time since 2014 when Galliano first joined the house, he was strongly visible,
and articulate as he was years ago at both his own label and at Dior. Secondly the
sense of continuity with both Martin Margiela’s work and Johns work was clearly
visible and thirdly the use of Nick Knight and an a totally atmospheric form of visual
communication was modern and fresh.
S.W.A.L.K. | Maison Margiela Artisanal Co-Ed Collection Autumn-Winter 2020
• https://youtu.be/GCnbjRlICSQ
• https://wwd.com/runway/fall-couture-2020/paris/maison-martin-
margiela/review/
• https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/12690/this-film-takes-you-
behind-the-scenes-of-the-maison-margiela-atelier
• https://fashionista.com/2020/07/maison-margiela-fall-2020-artisanal-
collection
Tod’s: How does a great classic brand with beautiful products and a strong Italian heritage and profile deal with digital? See below for appropriate response and aesthetic. It’s not over complex, and yet it faces up to the times and how the brand responds. Tod's | Spring Summer 2021 | Digital: • https://youtu.be/IIllbzqtqdc • https://www.zoemagazine.net/166234-tods-milano-digital-fashion-week/ • https://wwd.com/runway/resort-2021/milan/tods/review/ JW Anderson: Creativity and craft are at the heart of all Jonathan’s work and this season his answers to the current situation in regard to communication are pitched within his handwriting and signature work. It’s digital yet not, it’s open access and yet the delivery of the real box identifies key players and the limited-edition quality of the presentation. The heart of a designer’s work can be conveyed in many ways and integrity in design is a major underestimate quality. It’s not about liking or not liking what he does, it’s about recognition for how well he does it and how he remains true to his own creative values. JW Anderson | Men's SS21 & Women's RS21 Collection Walkthrough with Jonathan Anderson • https://youtu.be/_kJ-TpZdBC0 • https://wwd.com/runway/resort-2021/london/jw-anderson/review/
JW Anderson | Men's SS21 & Women's RS21 Collection Reveal with Jonathan
Anderson
• https://youtu.be/2x7iQ-lByY8
• https://wwd.com/runway/mens-spring-collections-2021/london/jw-
anderson/review/
Loewe:
Loewe | Spring Summer 2021 | Digital:
• https://032c.com/unboxing-loewe-for-jonathan-anderson-ss2021-is-not-just-
digital
• http://fuckingyoung.es/loewe-spring-summer-2021/
• https://www.vogue.com/article/jonathan-anderson-unpacks-loewe-show-in-
a-box-24-hour-livestream
• https://wwd.com/runway/mens-spring-collections-2021/paris/loewe/review/
Etro:
Classic brand, classic show. It’s important to question if this best represented the
brand, and if it had any relevance to the current global problems facing fashion.
Methods and ideas need to evolve so one has to think about a print and decorative
based imagery and how that influences the communication of a brand.
Etro Men's Spring Summer 2021 and Women's Resort 2021 Collections:
• https://youtu.be/E7OUDJKmCeM
Alberta Ferretti | Resort 2021 | Digital: Classic Italian glamour, a brand with a beautiful heritage, a woman at the helm who understands her clients and the image they expect very well indeed. • https://youtu.be/Y6fGSmxwhEQ • https://runwaymagazines.com/alberta-ferretti-spring-summer-2021/ Moschino: Tongue firmly planted in his cheek, Franco Moschino was a brilliant and witty designer whose heritage is hard to channel. “This is not a cheap jacket” spectacularly embroidered in gold on the back of an exquisite tailored jacket, knives and forks as buttons matching down the front of a piece of military precision tailoring, and so on. Jeremy Scott should be a match made in heaven but it’s often a little to much Jeremy and not enough Franco for me. Oddly the slightly less fussy and digital presentation seems stronger? Have a look and decide.
Menswear | Womenswear Moschino| Resort 2021 | Digital: • https://youtu.be/xwkuFkltVhw • https://www.snipfeed.co/videos/5f0f09f8d72e8700192c028c Moschino Menswear • https://runwaymagazines.com/moschino-spring-summer-2021/ Milan Reviews: Since the weeks were somewhat confusing, and there were many designers showing a lot of the reviews were of a number of designers, shows and digital presentations all together rather than even day by day. As when a full-on live fashion week occurs some designers get less coverage, but below are some round ups, some analysis and some extra names in the mix. There are also some further mentions of designers we’ve picked out for closer analysis. Enjoy.
• https://nowfashion.com/reflections-on-life-post-lockdown-at-mfw-29937
• https://nowfashion.com/purity-and-tradition-intertwine-at-mfw-29925
• https://nowfashion.com/a-triumph-of-the-sublime-29911
• https://nowfashion.com/hybridists-of-the-fashion-sphere-29904
• https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/gallery/2020/jul/18/milan-mens-
fashion-week-ss21-10-key-collections-in-pictures
• https://www.nytimes.com/2020/07/17/style/gucci-prada-margiela-digital-
fashion-shows.html
• https://www.spokesman.com/stories/2020/jul/14/prada-headlines-milans-
first-digital-fashion-week/
• https://wwd.com/fashion-news/shows-reviews/
• https://wwd.com/runway/
• https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/article/milan-digital-fashion-weekDolce e Gabanna: Many years ago, when Dolce e Gabanna started they were famous for clothes in black and corseted and lingerie looks. Sexy Italian widows, as it was once described. In the intervening years they’ve became more and more associated with a very special kind of cinematic luxury, dramatic imagery, and with colour and pattern, print and embellishments. The Alta Moda made to order is extremely successful and the luxurious boutiques around the world keep their loyal customers very happy. It’s not about pushing boundaries of extraordinary modernity, it’s no longer about switching what they do, it’s about the image, the reliability and of course the superb quality that Dolce e Gabanna represents. Optimistic, up tempo, and always intensely Italiano. The customer who loves the major Versace pieces or who misses Roberto Cavalli at its most over the top is happy to find Dolce e Gabanna still flaunting it. Sexy fitted suits, huge floating caftans, outrageous ball gowns, it’s what they do best. Many will have forgotten D & G the “lower priced younger” ready to wear label “ Dolce & Gabbana had two central lines (D&G and Dolce&Gabbana) until 2012, when the lines merged under the label Dolce & Gabbana” it’s clear this Has focussed the brand in the intervening eight years. If you’re interested to know more, below is the link to the huge Wikipedia entry on the house.
• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dolce_%26_Gabbana
Dolce&Gabbana Alta Moda, Palazzo Dolce&Gabbana, July 2020
• https://youtu.be/ewjmVA8vno4
#DGParcoDeiPrincipi Spring-Summer 2021 Men’s Fashion Show
• https://youtu.be/gMF8GBzAnnA
Dolce&Gabbana Alta Sartoria, Palazzo Dolce&Gabbana, July 2020
• https://youtu.be/CjM7c7CX0Xg
• https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2020/jul/15/dolce-gabbana-holds-
first-major-physical-catwalk-show-of-coronavirus-era
Zegna:Read the reviews; simply an object lesson in how to get everything right. This is
done with a seemingly effortless creativity, and without distorting the house
aesthetics.
“On the 110th anniversary of Ermenegildo Zegna, we return to the birthplace of our
brand in Oasi Zegna for the Summer 2021 Fashion Show. Discover the new
collection inspired by our enduring love of nature.”
• https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved
=2ahUKEwjzhrv-ttzqAhWGDxQKHfm-
CdwQFjAGegQIAhAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.vogue.com%2Ffashion-
shows%2Fspring-2021-menswear%2Fz-
zegna&usg=AOvVaw00DD4oLNh05RfS7tSpaqKt
• https://wwd.com/runway/mens-spring-collections-2021/milan/ermenegildo-
zegna/review/
• https://www.designscene.net/2020/07/ermenegildo-zegna-ss21.html
• https://www.thefashionisto.com/collection/ermenegildo-zegna-spring-2021-
menswear/
Prada:Until the debuts of Raf Simons this is the last solo show for Muiccia Prada. It was
one hundred percent the attitude and approach to the sedan one might expect from
a designer renowned for their creative integrity, their questioning of fashion and
whose core and heart as a brand has always been clear and well communicated.
This wasn’t the end of a chapter or marking time; this was a fashion statement for
right now but a very strong brand relative director. This is the woman who was once
asked if she saw everything and every piece that went out with the Prada brand
name on it. “of course,” she replied, “it has my name on it”. That is the strength of
the house; creative vision and integrity.
• Chapter 1 - Prada Multiple View Spring/Summer 2021
• https://youtu.be/xsZ4XqPDVtc
• Chapter 2 - Prada Multiple View Spring/Summer 2021
• https://youtu.be/aJ19T6MragM
• Chapter 3 - Prada Multiple View Spring/Summer 2021
• https://youtu.be/c5Vpu8WSDAU
• Chapter 4 - Prada Multiple View Spring/Summer 2021
• https://youtu.be/oy21xFGnjO8
• Chapter 5 - Prada Multiple View Spring/Summer 2021
• https://youtu.be/AnmSWqlcbSA
• Prada Multiple Views Spring/Summer 2021 – The Show That Never
Happened
• https://youtu.be/ghbvuaK_aSc
• https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2020/jul/14/show-that-never-
happened-pradas-digital-hangover-in-milanGucci:
Epilogue is Alessandro Michele’s homage to his own design codes and Gucci in the
70s. Epilogue: In Detail
"The period of greatest liberation, which I lived through when I was a child, was the
70s, which were really the golden years of the brand I work for, and I keep going
back to them because, for me personally they were the real seeds of change."
Alessandro Michele
Fancy twelve hours of Gucci? Well at last your dreams can come true. Alessandro
Michele took us behind the scenes for an extraordinary event. If COVID 19 has
spurred some creatives forward into new ways of thinking, communicating and
opening up the brand to its true followers and enthusiasts, this is brilliant. We can’t
and don’t all love the same things but if we do feel strongly about something we
want to know more, it’s what train spotters, or a football fan with their home team,
do. It’s about insider knowledge and Gucci offered clothes worn by the team in
house, close ups of every detail, walk throughs and photo opportunities throughout
the day. The rolling hours of dressing, discussing, watching, the teams, the
dedication and the commitment was truly communicated.If the clothes themselves felt like “more of the same” surely when your audience is
going to be largely composed of fans this is only the correct thing to offer?
Michele proposed the same eclectic mix, the same flight of retro fantasy and the
same “pile it on, too much is never enough” philosophy. It was celebratory and
strong, it was tried and tested, and it was pure Alessandro Michele for Gucci.
• https://www.gucci.com/us/en/st/stories/runway/article/epilogue-video
• https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/designers/a33350210/gucci-
epilogue-collection/
• https://hypebeast.com/2020/7/gucci-epilogue-collection-review
• https://wwd.com/runway/resort-2021/milan/gucci/review/
• https://fashionista.com/2020/07/gucci-epilogue-collection-review-resort-
2021
• https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/gallery/gucci-
epilogue?image=5f11d65b0f4836e64909f061
Menswear:
Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana
For the first time in its history, CNMI is experimenting with a highly innovative
formula, through a live, digital platform that represents a new form of storytelling for
the Italian fashion industry. Milan Digital Fashion Week is a dynamic response to the
complexity of today. It’s an ultra-inspiring tool, designed to support, rather than
replace, the physical fashion calendar, which will resume in September.A landmark antidote to an age marked by social distancing and travel restrictions
imposed by the global health crisis. One that aims to provide a dynamic solution to
the complexity of the present, a functional and creative tool amid these times and to
support to the brands, when normalcy returns, in their physical fashion shows,
which remains a crucial tool in conveying Made in Italy’s prowess and creative
impact. With the February launch of China, We Are with You, a ground-breaking
digital experience, CNMI rapidly created a digital bridge with the Chinese public,
affording them the opportunity to experience the Milan catwalk shows, despite
travel restrictions brought on by the unexpected evolution of the Covid-19
pandemic. Emboldened by this experience, we are presenting an ever-more
revolutionary project that will open Milan Fashion Week up to a broader audience of
non-professionals: a demographic composed of younger generations that consume
fashion via images and to whom CNMI has assumed the role as Fashion Translator
with the aim of conveying the creativity and culture that emanates from the Italian
fashion world.
Carlo Capasa, Chairman of Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana
• https://milanofashionweek.cameramoda.it/
10 Magazine Milan Digital Fashion Week.
July 15, 2020
TEXT: MILI GODIO
Milan Digital Fashion Week finally kicked off on Tuesday, starting with MSMG and
continuing with a strong group of designers and fashion houses, including Prada
and Philipp Plein. Moschino, who gave a digital presentation, was straightforward
compared to its fellow participants so far – the Italian luxury fashion house kept it
short and sweet at just a minute and 53 seconds.
The digital livestream event; a first for the Italian fashion industry _ hosts a variety of
major luxury brands and designers. The fashion week spectacle features two in-
person shows (organised for Dolce & Gabbana and Etro) and digital presentations
and videos.
• https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/live-coverage-milan-digital-
fashion-week-1203676507/
• https://www.crfashionbook.com/mens/g33298598/paris-menswear-spring-
summer-2021-best-looks/
• https://www.showstudio.com/collections
Serdar Milano Digital Fashion Week Spring Summer 2021
• https://youtu.be/sDze2GYzuFwJil Sander:
The team at the helm of this house are doing a splendid job. For those of us who
knew Jil Sander and the house when it was her vision which drove it and every
superb piece which issued forth from its doors some attempts and working as the
creative director for the house have misfired. However, Lucie and Luke Meier seem
to be in touch with the ethos’s of the houses founder without either subverting it to
something else or just being dull and slavish. It’s a very difficult tightrope to balance
on since the world have turned many times since Jil first offered a luxury
minimalism, an edited view of womenswear, which at the time was one hundred
percent fresh and individual. A house must hold true to the raison d’etre of what
established it in the first place as an individual voice, but it also has to develop and
grow and move forwards. The Meiers seem to be doing just that.
• https://wwd.com/runway/mens-spring-collections-2021/milan/jil-
sander/review/
Resort 21 Women's Collection documented by Stephen Kidd
• https://youtu.be/-cMOA5jG_OA
• https://www.jilsander.com/en-es/
Jil SanderParis:
Louis Vuitton Resort:
Shot in the studios this was realistic and approachable fashion. Without the huge
production and the hype, the clothes actually appeared really strong and
‘investment’ as pieces.
• https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved
=2ahUKEwiA3tH43dnqAhUa5uAKHeUxBVUQFjAAegQIBBAB&url=https%3A
%2F%2Fwww.vogue.com%2Ffashion-shows%2Fresort-2021%2Flouis-
vuitton&usg=AOvVaw3JM-7OkuR3VBmQhtXdcEZQ
Lemaire:
This designer whose pieces are so covetable and who takes “classic” and makes it
into “desirable” isn’t for everyone, and his aesthetic is hardly about “fashion” in the
sense of constant change, new seasons looks and tricks. His work is about integrity
and honesty and craft and quality, and wearability and timelessness. It’s not
clothing and it’s not edgy fashion it’s pure unadulterated beautiful pieces. This
applies even when he works with Uniqlo. It’s ‘just right’
‘Vogue Runway’ PARIS, JULY 13, 2020 by Luke Leitch
The fashion show that Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran presented in Paris
as the subject matter for this video was a sadly audience less landmark in the
development of the label they co-create.From now on, they said on a Zoom from their studio earlier today, the brand will
show co-ed during the men’s week in Paris and bid adieu to the womenswear
shows in February and September.”
• https://www.lemaire.fr/pages/spring-summer-2021
• https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved
=2ahUKEwjuv56p39nqAhUH8xQKHY--
BAQQtwIwAHoECAQQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.vogue.com%2Ffash
ion-shows%2Fspring-2021-menswear%2Fchristophe-
lemaire&usg=AOvVaw0UNzuBTYLkKfJnJWDiEfoa
Lemaire
Phipps:
• https://nowfashion.com/phipps-menswear-spring-summer-2020-paris-27781
Davi:
• https://nowfashion.com/davi-paris-menswear-spring-summer-2021-29896Oteyza:
Spring 2021 Menswear Online Paris
• https://youtu.be/b_YBaDSU04k
Etudes:
• https://www.numero.com/en/fashionweek/etudes-spring-summer-
menswear-collection-2021-fashion-week-paris-streets
Auralee:
• https://nowfashion.com/auralee-s-imaginary-journey-through-time-29912
Isabel Marant:
Spring Summer 2021 Men’s Collection
• https://youtu.be/Hpp3cQIlGpc
Berluti:
• https://www.fashionotography.com/berluti-spring-summer-2021-paris-
fashion-week-mens/
Dior:
It’s all about the eyes and vision of one man, even though in reality we know there’s
a team and a vast Dior machine, it’s the man at the top of the pyramid, the man
whose instincts says what will be right and what he knows should be developed as
part of the Dior Menswear offering each season. It’s a brilliant mix of extra special
and core product, of house signatures and pared down and almost classic. It is how
you take all the things that a huge number of clients want and answer that with a
cohesive statement and a contemporary statement and yet still match with a luxury
heritage brand.
Men’s Summer 2021 Collection
• https://youtu.be/FL_g906Ov9Y
Dior Men’s Summer 2021 Accessories
• https://youtu.be/mZhFQP6bwgsHermes:
Winning some of the finest reviews in recent digital weeks Hermes is always about
quality. The work on show needs no tricks the pieces are perfect, and the clients
know what to expect and why they shop at the house. This is true for some names
but not all, focus and editing let’s some houses and brands down when it falters,
tries to hard or simply goes for gimmicks. This is not the Hermes way, back in the
80’s they tried flash as a kind of “extra” but in the end it was left to others to do it.
When Martin Margiela joined Hermes in the 1990’s his quiet, refined, minimal pieces
sold like hot cakes. It why one shops at Hermes, investment dressing can get no
better. Approaching the digital season, the team reacted in perfect harmony to the
house ethos and the product, the communication is judged to a whisper.
• https://www.hermes.com/us/en/story/271480-men-spring-summer-2021-
performance/
• https://ww.fashionnetwork.com/news/Hermes-unveils-its-spring-2021-
menswear-via-performance-art,1229000.html
• https://cpp-luxury.com/hermes-impresses-with-digital-mens-fashion-week/Hermes
Louis Vuitton Resort:
Shot in the studios this was realistic and approachable fashion. Without the huge
production and the hype, the clothes actually appeared really strong and
‘investment’ as pieces.
• https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved
=2ahUKEwiA3tH43dnqAhUa5uAKHeUxBVUQFjAAegQIBBAB&url=https%3A
%2F%2Fwww.vogue.com%2Ffashion-shows%2Fresort-2021%2Flouis-
vuitton&usg=AOvVaw3JM-7OkuR3VBmQhtXdcEZQ
Lanvin:
Menswear/Womenswear
Lanvin | Spring Summer 2021 | Digital
• https://youtu.be/_rGssw9HQ1kParis Menswear: Below is the link to the entire season onlIne. Some shows are also in the body of this report, but as with the womenswear it’s a hugely mixed offering. Complex and exciting visual communication, engaging but odd creative thinking, straightforward collections Lookbook and some who have not really shown much in the way of clothes, and one feels are waiting. Some designers are clearly sitting quietly and thinking, observing and waiting. They are unwilling yet to stride forward with confidence. Indeed, some menswear designers are in the business of clothes as much as fashion, which means they use digital for facts and information as much as they do creativity. • https://parisfashionweek.fhcm.paris/fr/calendrier/ Issey Miyake: Like Fortuny or indeed any great designer who fuses fabric originality to form and construction, also with originality Miyake as a name continues to hold our attention. This perfectly pitched presentation during the current times shows exactly why. HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE premiered its SPRING SUMMER 2021 collection video online on Friday, July 10th. The video titled Meet Your New Self, namesake of the collection, is creative director Yusuke Kobayashi's take on people discovering their new selves, featuring the idea behind the collection: looking forward to the future and living through the life in transition. • https://www.isseymiyake.com/en/news/6470
Y/Project: Since day one this brand and name has had something wonderful, original, intriguing about it. Commitment to a certain kind of fashion, a quirkiness and a really original eye adds up to a special and original viewpoint. It’s also terrific in close up with a respect for shape and construction, fabric choices which are out of the ordinary and attention to finish and detail. Y/Project | Spring Summer 2021 | Digital • https://youtu.be/Dx3pDpdPqeI
Rick Owens:
Unique, brilliant and articulate with a truly original approach to fashion. That’s really
all there is to say regarding Rick Owens. His digital presentation, is, as one would
guess perfectly pitched as a communication tool for the brand and the name.
• https://www.showstudio.com/collections/spring-summer-2021/rick-owens-
ss-21-menswear/video?autoplay=1
• https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=video&cd=&ve
d=2ahUKEwjUt4OQhtzqAhXp6eAKHb3AC-
kQtwIwAHoECAAQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.vogue.com%2Ffashion-
shows%2Fspring-2021-menswear%2Frick-
owens&usg=AOvVaw2IAJjzHVqpmlW0n2tl23yUHenrik Vibskov:
This is exactly how you communicate your brand ethos, your creative pulse and
engage with your audience.
The idea that a brand can communicate with press and buyers, but also the clients
is to a degree the result of digital, online and film. These nine minutes can tel, us so
much about the thoughts and concepts behind the clothes, it’s so much more
informative than a press release or even those grabbed moments after a show when
everyone wants a soundbite.
The thoughts and words Vibskov uses have been thought about and shared for a
purpose not just a whim.
• https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/shows/springsummer-2021-
menswear/henrik-vibskov/collection
• https://youtu.be/ODxm8VUj_VQBotter:
In recent years the integrity of this label and the work they produce has been a
refreshing inspiration in fashion. It’s not “edgy” it’s not classic and it’s not street.
So, having said what it’s not; what is it? It’s simply Botter, a style and a creative
style for the second decade of the twenty first century. It’s not nostalgic but
acknowledges the past, it’s not aimed only at a young client and it’s originality is in
a word; original.
PARIS, JULY 10, 2020 by TINA ISAAC-GOIZÉ
“The gut-punch came in a re-edition of last year’s message sweatshirt that asks,
“Do you see us now?” That one was originally produced when they first arrived in
Paris, straight out of student life, to speak for their muses and in hopes of catching
the fashion world’s attention, the designers explained. “It’s a message that’s close
to our hearts,” offered Herrebrugh. “A collection is like a diary, and to say nothing
would be a betrayal.” Vogue Runway
• https://youtu.be/dzw2h24j7WY
• https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved
=2ahUKEwjv3e2BiNzqAhWREBQKHV9tBUkQFjADegQIBBAB&url=https%3A
%2F%2Fwww.vogue.com%2Ffashion-shows%2Fspring-2021-
menswear%2Fbotter&usg=AOvVaw1lPrMbsgj526tuOi5UM5DeLouis Vuitton:
Virgil Abloh; like him of dislike him, he has something to say, he has ideas. He offers
strong ideas so either reaction of like/dislike becomes imperative. You can’t ignore,
you can’t sit on the fence and you simply can’t be ambivalent. Watch his Louis
Vuitton menswear communication and think which way your feel. It’s not safe, and
it’s not the same as anyone else’s so just wait a minute and then see what you
think.
The Film
In lieu of the traditional fashion show format, the Men’s Artistic Director has instead
imagined a virtual and literal voyage across the world to present his new collection
‘Message in a Bottle’. Starting at Louis Vuitton’s ancestral home in Asnières,
outside of Paris, the film follows movers packing up shipping containers and loading
them onto a barge, that then sails down the Seine River and beyond Paris. Aboard,
a colourful crew of animated characters called ‘Zoooom with friends’ are hiding as
stowaways, as a nod to Virgil Abloh’s ongoing theme of boyhood present in all of
his Louis Vuitton collections.”
• https://eu.louisvuitton.com/eng-e1/magazine/articles/men-spring-summer-
2021-show#the-filmPalomo Spain:
“This collection is the spring we didn’t have, the spring we had to watch through a
window”
In this new age designers speaking their concepts or thoughts has a resonance that
those printed press releases seldom have. This film and the atmosphere is so
strong as are he designers’ words. When digital works it gives us more than models
walking up and done a catwalk, no matter the setting or the atmosphere. We need
both of course but film and digital presentations are something else, and well
employed they can be magical, and they can say something deeper than just a
show; sometimes.
Perhaps in the end it’s a question of weather or not the designer or creative director
actually has something to say?
• https://www.palomospain.com/
• https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved
=2ahUKEwipxouRsdzqAhXHDWMBHS9qANoQtwIwAHoECAUQAQ&url=http
s%3A%2F%2Fwww.vogue.com%2Ffashion-shows%2Fspring-2021-
menswear%2Fpalomo-spain&usg=AOvVaw1iw5zs2hU1IanX5-4VOvq1Jacquemus: Jacquemus SS21 "L'AMOUR" Official Two versions, one office one not. But it simply doesn’t matter, because Jacquemus is great whatever version of the shows you see. He is intensely loyal to France, he eschews glitz and fuss, he’s a brilliant colourist, he has a beautiful aesthetic sense and he makes good clothes. Interestingly enough he combines attributes from past designers but only as elements of the mixture. Like Christian Lacroix he has a deep affection for his roots, and like Yves Saint Laurent he is makes clothes for a modern real woman. The pieces work, and that’s why he’s become stronger each season. It’s a wardrobe of pieces from jackets to dresses, from short and sexy to long and soft and it’s deceptively simple, but never dull or classic. • https://youtu.be/5vTYQWNFgTU Jacquemus Spring/Summer 2021 • https://youtu.be/BZBmPlSSfLk
Other News:
New York Resort
This is a label to fall in love with at first sight. Joyous and celebratory and personal,
all the things we are seeking right now in fashion.
• https://elder-statesman.com/
• https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved
=2ahUKEwia5uOi3dnqAhUjzoUKHc3aBKQQFjAAegQIAhAB&url=https%3A%
2F%2Fwww.vogue.com%2Ffashion-shows%2Fresort-2021%2Felder-
statesman&usg=AOvVaw1DvGd55sZv4YC58UOIoHMl
• elder-statesman.com
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Sweater.Chloe: Logic Pringent takes us inside the house to learn more about its ethos, it’s success, and talks to the Front Row. Access and questions combine to tel, is a lot more about Chloe in 2020. Way back Karl Lagerfeld has two stints as the head designer at this house. Logic Chloe Founded by Gaby Aghion in 1952, Chloé has also twice had Karl Lagerfeld, now of Chanel and Fendi fame, as its creative head: in 1974 and 1992. The designer had worked with the house from 1964 and for the next decade would go on to cement its bohemian romance through bold prints on flowing dresses that were confident, fun and liberating. Under his creative eye, the brand reached international success, which put Lagerfeld out there as a serious fashion name. [#image: /photos/5d5447dc511e9f000877c682] Read more: This Is What Female Utopia Looks Like, According to Chloé's Natacha Ramsay-Levi His designs became the go-to for Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and Brigitte Bardot. After being appointed at Chanel in 1982, Lagerfeld returned to Chloé again in 1992, though this time to less successful effect. In 1997, aged just 25, Stella McCartney took on the role.
Her commercial success with the brand at the turn of the millennium embraced a new, minimalist but sassy phase in fashion – which also coincided with the internet and thus the proliferation of her name at the house.” Vogue.com It’s also interesting to realise that Virginie Viard was with Lagerfeld at during the 1990’s. • https://youtu.be/WtUF7Iyx9oU Couture Extras | Update: Christophe Josse Fall 2020 Making of Haute Couture Online Paris • https://youtu.be/XoR2sCRSyZQ Some reviews you might have missed… • https://nowfashion.com/a-verdict-on-digital-fashion-week-29955 Audience Notes: Since so much is digital, since so much is online, and because we are glued to our screens to watch, learn, shop and criticise from the comfort of our armchairs, how do we watch?
There are plenty of options, from brands own YouTube, own website, and own
Instagram, to YouTube, Fashion Channels, Instagram generally, and WWD, Vogue
Runway, it’s endless.
Through this mishmash of film, slide show interaction, presentation, etc, one thing
does become clear. Many of the viewing numbers are surprisingly low on YouTube,
for example Alberta Ferretti has 237 + 51 only on her own feed, but over on IGTV
Instagram TV there is in excess of 50,000.
Predicting and Predictions and News:
We launched three months ago on the premise of being informative. Every entry
we’ve selected has been a fact, and the additional notes are observational or for
clarification. In unprecedented times, conjecture and forecasting is, at best,
uncertain. So many articles in every area of reporting from financial to football have
been about what might happen. Below we note that indeed the financial forecasting
and predictions was wrong. This isn’t to gloat over this information, but truly to
remind readers that at any given moment, right now, anywhere in the world to
predict is dangerous. I was told by a Russian many years ago “Good advice is no
better than bad advice, unless it’s given at the right time” true or not this is
something to think about.
Hope Fades for the V-Shaped Recovery:
• https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/slow-return-to-growth-ends-hopes-of-
swift-recovery-
t76d6rgp0?shareToken=90bb2c8f1435094ab9208cf394846308Luxury Store News:
• https://www.thetimes.co.uk/edition/business/harvey-nichols-warns-of-
redundancies-fqz3r02dh
Luxury Brand News:
• https://www.thetimes.co.uk/edition/business/burberry-cuts-500-jobs-
bvxq9qms3
Gossip:
Did anyone mention diversity to the CFDA panel? Practice what you preach has
never been a more appropriate adage?
“While the nominations for the 2020 American Emerging Designer of the Year are
certainly worth celebrating, the other five Fashion Awards categories this year
exemplify what many believe is fashion’s inability to change and evolve. Tom Ford,
who won the ceremony’s Lifetime Achievement Award in 2014 and is currently the
Chairman of the CFDA, is up for not one, but two more nominations this year for
American Womenswear Designer of the Year and American Menswear Designer of
the year. He’s already won six other CFDA awards in the past.Marc Jacobs, Thom Browne, and The Row's Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen have
previously also won numerous CFDA awards. Right now, when the world is looking
closely at fashion to see how it will amplify and support BIPOC voices that have
historically been overlooked, the CFDA had an opportunity to do something
different. Yes, the nominations were submitted prior to the protests following
George Floyd’s death in May, as well as the pandemic, but, as the leading figures of
influence in fashion, the CFDA has an opportunity to lead the pack in supporting
BIPOC and young designers. And yet — aside from the Emerging Designers
category and promising to make "changes to bring racial equity to the fashion
industry" (see below) — it’s clear that it didn't take it.”
• https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/2020/07/9922505/cfda-2020-fashion-
awards-nominees
• https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/designers/a33368431/2020-cfda-
fashion-award- nominees-list/
Thank you
T.G.You can also read
