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Runway Review Business or Entertainment? - Accessories - trends magazine
T h e M a g a z i n e f o r Canadian   Fashion Retailers

                                  Runway Review
                                  Business or Entertainment?
Canada Post Agreement #41957515

                                  Accessories
                                  Taking S/S 2020 by Storm

                                  Retail Success
                                  Small Shops - Big Ideas

                                  Top Ten Trends
                                  2020 Retail Vision
January - July 2020
Runway Review Business or Entertainment? - Accessories - trends magazine
Runway Review Business or Entertainment? - Accessories - trends magazine
Runway Review Business or Entertainment? - Accessories - trends magazine
Runway Review Business or Entertainment? - Accessories - trends magazine
Runway Review Business or Entertainment? - Accessories - trends magazine
CONTENTS

      trends
      The Magazine for Canadian Fashion Retailers
                                                                                              J A N U A RY 2 0 2 0

                                                                                              S P E C I A L F E AT U R E S
                                                                                              38 Top 10 Trends
                                                                                                 Socially and ethically minded youth impact SS20 womenswear
     Vo l u m e 11              Issue 21               January 2020                              trends and buying patterns.

                                                                                              58 Sustainability in Business
                                                                                                 A sustainability strategy to future-proof businesses in an age
                                                                                                 of informed and socially minded consumers.
       Publisher / Editor
                                      8 Kait Walker
                                        kait@trendsmagazine.ca
       Editorial Contributors                                                                 D E PA R T M E N T S
                         8 Kirsten Mogg
                         8 Lucy Lau
                         8 Naeme El-Zein
                                                                                              08 Industry News
                         8 Ani Nersessian                                                        Dawn of a New Decade - opportunities and inspiration
                                                                                                 amid environmental, political and business disruptions.
       Editor / Art Director
                          8 Kim Walker
                             kim@trendsmagazine.ca                                            22 Retail Success
       National Sales Manager.                                                                   Small retailers with new ideas make landlords and municipalities
                         8 kait@trendsmagazine.ca                                                recognize that independents have an important role to play.
                              705-426-1712
       Website Address                8 trendsmagazine.ca
       Email Address                  8 info@trendsmagazine.ca                                32 Accessories
                                                                                                 Canadian designers take 2020 Spring/Summer runways by storm.
       Subscriptions                  8 subscribe@trendsmagazine.ca
       Head Office                    8 Beaverton ON L0K 1A0
                                                                                              42 Runway Review
                                                                                                 Have entertainment and activism overtaken business interests?
       Circulation                    8 trends@publicationpartners.com                           Spring 2020 runways deploy new strategies as they try to adapt.
       Toll-Free:                     8 1-877-547-2246
                                                                                              50 Visual Merchandising
                                                                                                Avoid the Stockroom Syndrome - how to display merchandise
       All rights reserved.                                                                     effectively to tell a story and give shoppers a break.
       Trends is published biannually.
       Contents may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the consent of the
       publisher. The publisher is not responsible for the contents of any advertisement.
       Any representations or warranties are those of the advertiser and not the publisher.   52 Vancouver Fashion Week
       The advertiser is responsible for obtaining permission to use any photographs or          VFW presents the major trends of the season.
       images used in an advertisement. The publisher is not liable for misprints that
       are not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s
       liability will not exceed the amount the publisher charged for the advertising.
                                                                                              60 Show Calendar
       Subscription Rates:                                                                       Dates and venues for 2020 Canadian, US & International shows.
         Canada 1 year CDN $22.00
         United States 1 year $33.00
         All other countries 1 year $44.00
         Single Copies: Canada $11.00
       Canada Post Agreement Number 41957515
                                                                                                 Cover Photo

6   TRENDS 4 January 2020
Runway Review Business or Entertainment? - Accessories - trends magazine
Runway Review Business or Entertainment? - Accessories - trends magazine
Industry
   News
                     By Kirsten Mogg

Dawn Of A New Decade
The ten-year post recession expansion cycle is either imminently doomed
or just getting started, depending on whom you ask. Global politics, climate
change, and technology continue to disrupt. Consumer activism is on the rise.
Trade policies are a question mark although the USMCA (NAFTA 2.0) agreement
seems finally to have bi-partisan approval and can proceed to ratification. The                                    Color of the Year 2020: Classic Blue 19-4052
WTO is in disarray and trade agreements will need to be rewritten when the                                                    Courtesy of Pantone Color Institute
UK leaves the Canadian European Trade Agreement (CETA).
                                                                                     Pantone Color of the Year
Climate Change                                                                       Pantone suggests that its Color of the Year 2020, Blue 19-4052, is both
Perhaps the most impactful challenge to the fashion industry, labeled as a           futuristic and classic. Darker than the optimistic and peaceful sky blue
significant global polluter, is a demand for urgent action on climate change led     Pantone selected a decade ago, this blue is closer to cobalt derived pigments
by sixteen year old Greta Thunberg. Consumers are responding by calling for          used for centuries to tint glass, ceramics and paint. Being neither masculine
political and corporate action.                                                      nor feminine it suggests a genderless trend while at the same time reflecting
                                                                                     a trend toward highly contrasting points of view - either a refreshing yet
United Nations                                                                       peaceful colour referencing an oasis of calm in troubled times or a
Mark Carney, the former investment banker and Bank of Canada chief is                disappointing, moody safe choice more suited to cars, political parties,
leaving his post as the head of the Bank of England. He has accepted a new           technology firms and conservative men’s suits.
role as United Nations special envoy on climate action and climate finance           This blue will be successful in fashion when presented in modern materials
reporting to Secretary-General Antonio Guterres. Carney takes over from              in a contemporary way or enlivened by its complimentary colours of
Michael Bloomberg, former Mayor of New York, and US Democratic Presidential          orange, black and white. Expect to see it in dark jeans, suiting, sportswear,
candidate. Carney will build on the Task Force on Climate-Related Financial          shimmery metallics, lace or velvet and in beauty products for nails, lips
Disclosures (TCFD) initiated by G20 leaders in 2015. About 80 percent of             and hair.
top 1,100 global companies already disclose climate risks aligned with those
guidelines.
Convincing companies to take up this global financial reporting framework is of
great interest to investors who need to assess the corporate risks associated with
climate change. Although there is heated disagreement over the price of carbon
emissions, Canadian companies already operate in an environment that puts a
dollar value on climate risk. The Canadian Securities Administration and the
Office of the Superintendent of Financial Institutions issued new guidelines
for accounting and reporting standards for public and regulated companies last
year. Increasingly, taking climate related risks can reduce a company’s ability
to raise capital.

Preferred Fibre Production
The Textile Exchange defines ‘preferred fibers’ as materials with an improved
social and environmental impact, an important requirement for the UN SDGs.
In their latest Preferred Fiber and Materials Market Report, La Rhea Pepper,
managing director, outlined the scale of the challenge that could become even
more daunting.
“Global fiber production has doubled in the last 20 years, reaching an all-time
high of 107 million metric tons in 2018. If business-as-usual continues, it is
expected to grow to 145 million metric tons by 2030.”
Polyester has the largest share, followed by cotton and man-made cellulosics,
while linen, leather, silk and wool are a small and shrinking part of the global
fibre pie. The share of recycled polyester grew from 8% to 13% in just ten
years, although China’s ban on imported plastic waste caused a decline of 16%
in 2017. More promising is the reported increased production of ‘preferred’                  Juno Award winning artist Iskwe opened Canadian designer
fibres. The share of other recycled synthetics and bio-synthetics remains very                        Lesley Hampton’s runway show in February 2019
small. Preferred cotton more than doubled over 2013/14 to reach 22% of global                          Hampton has Anishinaabe and Mohawk heritage
cotton production in 2017/18.                                                                                                  Photo : George Pimentel

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  Science Based Standards
  The gold standards for textile sustainability are based on scientific measurements                                                Canadian companies including Arc’terx, Aritzia, Lululemon and MEC sent
  and broad-based industry collaboration. The non-profit Textile Exchange has                                                       representatives to the roundtables organized for specific fibres such as
  facilitated working groups in specific textile sectors for years. Representatives                                                 polyester, cotton, cellulosics, wool and cashmere. There is much more
  from fibre to finished product within each specialized area work towards                                                          to be done. The next Textile Exchange Global Conference will be held in
  consensus and establish voluntary global standards for the industry.                                                              Dublin, Ireland during the first week in November, 2020.
  The issues are many and complex, but there is progress and public corporate
  commitments have been made by global players such as Kering, Ikea and
  H&M Group. At the 2019 Textile Exchange conference held in Vancouver
  last October, over 900 international industry product developers, production
  and sourcing executives from fibre producers, mills, manufacturers, retailers,
  NGO’s and standards organizations came together to discuss solutions and push
  forward toward the 2030 UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs).
  Scaling up is a priority and it’s clear that the leaders in the room were far ahead
  of the industry in general. Presentations emphasized how some fiber producers,
  textile and apparel companies and retailers are executing real, measurable
  changes to their individual and collective industries. Some, like Kering, are
  sharing open-source information and playing a leading role in convincing large
  players to sign up to the Global Fashion Pact launched at the G7 in Biarritz,
  France in August.
  The key take-away for a Canadian apparel brand or retailer is this: sustainability
  is no longer a single item, a marketing slogan, a compliance checkbox or a single
  department. Actual movement towards sustainability must be led from the top
  and operationally resourced with employees in every discipline who have Ikea and H&M Group made joint public
  empowerment, training and the tools to design a product that approaches carbon commitments on their SDG2030 goals
  neutral or carbon positive status as it moves through the textile pipeline.                     at Textile Exchange

  Golden Opportunties
  There are already many quality and compliance standards for textiles and
  apparel. However, there is no single global standard against which all products
  designed with environmental concerns in mind can be measured. Over the next
  decade for-profit companies will move to create, license and provide policing
  of environmental standards required by retailers and government authorities.
  Apparel companies offering products on the cutting edge of climate change
  standards are enjoying expanded business opportunities.                                                                                                                                                 Cruelty-free thermal fill insulates the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 brand against vegan activism
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Courtesy of Woodpecker

                                                                                                                                   Woodpecker makes a strong statement
                                                                                                                                           on giant new outerwear label
                                                                                                                                                        Photo : K.Mogg

                                                                                      Will Poho’s new Woodpecker
                                                                                      premium outerwear brand launched
                                                                                      successfully last fall with custom
                                                                                      camo, a variety of vegan friendly
                                                                                      ‘cruelty-free’ insulated puffer styles
                                                                                      with slick wet-look fabrics. Instead of
                                                                                      typical external branding, animal
                                                                                      insignias adorn the sleeves. The neck
                                                                                      labels on men’s coats sport a giant
                                                                                                                              Courtesy of Nudnik Inc.
                                                                                      burning white house while labels
                                                                                      on the women’s line portray a Canadian children’s brand Nudnik
                                                                                      more inclusive family of bears of all shifted from post to pre-consumer
                                                                                      colours. Poho says the line did very organic cotton to ensure a circular
                           Men’s Bumnester Wet Black Gold & Women’s red penguin coats well and he expects sales to catch fire source, control of product quality and
                                                              Courtesy of Woodpecker for AW20/21.                             aesthetics, and the ability to scale.

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   TH E UP S I DE O F D O W N
  The implementation of standards and labeling for responsible down, recycled
  down and sustainable down alternatives is a tribute to progress over the pursuit                                                  Updated Responsible Down Standard
  of perfection.
                                                                                      The Responsible Down Standard appears to be gaining global acceptance
                                                                                      over the Traceable Down Standard and the Downpass Standard. The RDS
  Stuffing Regulations                                                                first introduced in 2008 was written by the Textile Exchange, Control Union
  Policy is easy to implement, but hard to reverse. Quebec’s enforcement of (a certification body), and The North Face. Last year, an updated RDS 3.0
  antiquated Upholstered & Stuffed Articles regulations is “outdated, standard was released with input from global stakeholders.
  arbitrary and punitive” and “a barrier to free trade”. So says a report to the U.S.
                                                                                      China is the source of 70% to 90% of the 270,000 metric tons of down
  Trade Representative by the American Apparel & Footwear Association who
                                                                                      produced annually. Supply is highly fragmented with many small and
  worked for years with the Canadian Apparel Federation (CAF) to remove
                                                                                      medium-size producers, however the Textile Exchange has certified over 6,000
  this regulatory requirement on apparel.
                                                                                      farms and 904 processing sites in 2018, a significant increase since 2014.
  Bob Kirke, CAF executive director, puts it a little more bluntly, “It’s a zombie Over 70 brands have certified supply chains using RDS, including Canadian
  regulation. It serves no purpose for apparel and should be removed.” companies Arc’teryx Equipment, Aritzia, Indygena, Lululemon Athletica
  Quebec is the only jurisdiction that still has decades-old rules with an ambiguous Inc., Mackage, and MEC.
  and unenforced ‘health and safety’ rationale. What’s more, the restrictions
                                                                                      Patagonia remains a committed global leader when it comes to down traceability
  represent a cost to Canadian manufacturers, importers and retailers. Rules
                                                                                      and standards. The company started to trace down in 2007 and today their fall
  require any product made for Canadian distribution using recycled materials
                                                                                      2017 virgin down-filled products meet the advanced Global TDS standard.
  such as polyester or down to have a label identifying the garment as a
  “second hand article”.                                                              “It was neither cheap nor easy. And we had to re-examine our strategy and
                                                                                      business operations in the process. But building a long-lasting product that
  Most affected are companies creating and selling insulated outerwear such as
                                                                                      helps you stay warm in good conscience is a legacy of which we are extremely
  parkas and puffer coats. The trend to more sustainable recycled options leaves
                                                                                      proud.”
  the government of Quebec behind the times and out of sync with the industry
  and eco-conscious consumers. CAF is seeking an end to the requirement               A proposal to merge RDS and Global TDS was dropped due to different
  in early 2020 so that production of AW 20/21 winter outerwear can be stakeholders and areas of concentration.
  unencumbered by outdated regulations.

                                                                    Fall/Winter 19 Aritzia Super Puff coats
                                                                    wear Responsible Down Standard tag                                                                                                                    Aritzia SuperPuff display
                                                                                           Photo : K. Mogg                                                                                                                         Photo : K.Mogg
   RE:Down© email campaign, Sept 2019
            Courtesy of Tommy Hilfiger                                                                                               Indygena is a sustainably-driven outerwear company founded in Montreal
                                                                                                                                     in 2014 by three design and outerwear veterans: Jean-Pierre Ferrandez, the
  Recycled Down                                                                                                                      former head of international development for Orage and co-founder of Lolë
  Several European companies have developed methods to collect and produce                                                           and Paradox labels; Isabelle Vigneault, the executive director; and Stéphanie
  recycled down. Allied Feather and the Neokdun brand from Navarpluma SL of                                                          Noël, who studied at Jean-Charles de Castelbajac in Paris, is vice president
  Spain created a feather and down re-processing system sourced from the food                                                        of creation. The brand is available at MEC, Altitude Sports, Monod Sports
  industry in 2001. In September 2019, Navarpluma and Applied DNA Sciences                                                           in Banff, Trailhead Paddle Shack in Ottawa and Arthur James Clothing
  announced a partnership for a DNA based traceability project. The same month,                                                      Company in Newfoundland, among others. In August, the Canada Economic
  Japanese company Toray announced a collaboration with Uniqlo to reclaim                                                            Development for Quebec Regions granted a $250,000 repayable contribution
  and recycle down from apparel collected in Uniqlo stores.                                                                          to Indygena to develop new markets in the U.S. The company places design at
  Meanwhile, the French company RE:Down has built a commercial system that                                                           the centre of sustainable solutions while recognizing the challenges.
  achieves 97 percent of their zero waste goal that did meet the Global Recycled                                                     “The complexity of the supply chain and multiple components of a garment lay
  Standard (GRS). Re:Down partners with textile waste collectors, charities and                                                      great challenges in our quest for sustainable measures.”
  retailers to collect post-consumer down products (clothing, stuffed articles,
  bedding). Their energy-efficient and re-usable water facility in Hungary                                                           The company has published specific sustainability goals to be achieved by
  separates, sterilizes and re-processes down without the use of chemicals to                                                        2025. “Indygena is committed to replace synthetic fibers with recycled plastic
  produce recycled down that retains its natural insulating properties. Other                                                        polyethylene terephthalate (PET), recycled nylon, natural and/or organic fibers
  materials are recycled into non-woven insulation and broken feathers are turned                                                    by 2025 in its entire collection. 100% of our materials contain polyester or
  into organic fertilizer. In 2019, brands such as Tommy Hilfiger began to                                                           nylon, where our greater environmental impact takes place right now in the
  promote the use of re:Down in their products.                                                                                      supply chain.”

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   TO O L CHE S T
  Use The Free Library
  Achieving sustainability may seem overwhelming for a small fashion company                                                        free access to a searchable library with extensive information from vetted
  trying to do the right thing with limited resources. At the World Ethical                                                         resources that include reports, guidelines, standards, articles, podcasts and case
  Apparel Roundtable (WEAR) in 2019, the host and organizer, Fashion Takes                                                          studies. The goal is to make information ‘findable’, which will help companies
  Action, published The Sustainable Fashion Toolkit with the help of PWC.                                                           and individuals in the industry make progress toward sustainability.
  The online resource (sustainablefashiontoolkit.com) gives apparel companies

                                                                                                  FTA Sustainable Fashion Toolkit

  BCorp: A Fashion Status Symbol
  At the WEAR conference in Toronto last October, Ethan Song, co-founder Trust Tools
  of Frank & Oak, explained why he took his company through the process to Truepic is a secure imaging pipeline. At the moment a photo or video is taken,
  become a Certified B Corporation.                                                   its origin, contents and metadata are verifiable. The company offers digital
  “From the beginning we were involved in sustainability, community                   forensics to organizations in need of certainty throughout their supply chain.
  involvement. We always felt we were doing the right thing as a business, but how do
  you know you are taking the right actions? BCorp offers a framework.” Second Hand Stigma Fades
  Song was confident, but the process was tougher than expected. The fees were                                                      At WEAR, Chris Homer, co-founder of Calfornia-based reseller ThreadUP’
  not substantial, but it required significant human and other resources to implement                                               said, “We started with a mission to inspire a new generation of consumers to
  organizational improvements in order to achieve the points needed to reach the                                                    think second-hand first. When we started there was a stigma - over time it has
  BCorp standard.                                                                                                                   evaporated.”
                                                                             ThreadUp designed and built its own software technology and in-house
  “It took us two years to get certified and it gets more challenging as you get
  bigger. The more complex your business, the more complex your supply chain processes and has the first data set in the world able to price items, add tags and
                                                                             put attributes on those items, and determine which products should be available
  and governance, the harder it is to get certified. I put together a cross-disciplinary
  squad and we met for 2-3 hours every single week until we got it.”         online or at physical retail. ThreadUP’s success lies in the ability to offer
                                                                             shoppers a tailored treasure hunt covering 35,000 brands in 100 categories. Hot
  A growing number of Canadian clothing companies of all sizes have become retail brand Reformation partnered with ThreadUP on a give-some-get-some
  BCorps, including Kotn, Tentree, Grey Rock Clothing Co., and Poppy Barley, Reformation x ThreadUP campaign to help burnish their eco-credibility.
  all of which have been part of previous Trends Magazine stories.           Over the past year, ThreadUP’s business in Canada has grown by 70% before
                                                                             its official launch.

   EVE NTS & AWA R D S
   Winter Sports Apparel & Gear Combo
   Marisa Nicholson, Outdoor Retailer's senior vice president and show director,                                                     and 12 months of business mentoring. Last year, two promising Canadians were
   announced in August the merger of the Winter Market and the Snow Show.                                                            short-listed: 3.Paradis men’s streetwear brand and Marie-Ève Lecavalier the
   Renamed the Outdoor + Snow Show, the combined trade shows for winter                                                              winner of the CAFA/Swarovski Award for Emerging Talent in 2019.
   gear and apparel will run from January 29 to 31, 2020 in Denver.                                                                  Canadian Arts and Fashion Awards has set April 30, 2020 as the deadline for
                                                                                                                                     nominations. The 2020 CAFA Awards gala at the Fairmount Royal York will be
   Fashion Career Fair Returns to Toronto in March                                                                                   held on May 29, 2020. The Suzanne Rogers Designer Grant for International
   After a successful one-day event in 2018, the Canadian Apparel Federation                                                         Development is a $20,000 prize that includes mentorship, one of the best
   and the City of Toronto will again co-host a Fashion Career Fair and Expo                                                         financial opportunities for emerging designers in the country. However, it pales
   on March 10, 2020. They plan to expand on the event, which drew over 350                                                          in comparison to similar prizes for similar talent such as the LVMH Prize or
   qualified candidates from area fashion schools and showcased speakers and                                                         the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund in the U.S. which hands out US$400,000 for
   exhibits from some of the leading industry employers in the GTA.                                                                  the winner and $150,000 to the two runners-up. A jury will select an outstanding
                                                                                                                                     Canadian fashion designer or brand that has demonstrated significant impact,
   The seventh edition of the LVMH Prize for emerging designers is open for                                                          growth, and maturity and is poised to expand internationally. In 2019, the
   submissions until February 2, 2020. The most substantial award for emerging                                                       Suzanne Rogers grant went to Sid Neigum, who also received the CAFA
   designer talent presents the winner with €300,000 Euros in financial support                                                      Womenswear Designer of the Year Award.

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   RETA I L TREN D S
                                                                                         Super Winners                                                                          A Modern Underwear Index
                                                                                         According to the 2020 State of the Fashion Industry      Back in the 1970s, former U.S. Federal Reserve
                                                                                         report by McKinsey, only a few public global fashion     chairman Alan Greenspan suggested an ‘underwear
                                                                                         companies are ‘Superwinners’ while the rest struggle     index’ to predict where the economy is headed.
                                                                                         to make a profit.                                        He based it on the premise that men buy new briefs
                                                                                         Increasingly, profit is gained at the retail extremes of when they felt confident about the future. The
                                                                                         luxury or discount. With the exception of Inditex informal index tracked Hanesbrands stock against
                                                                                         (Zara, Massimo Dutti), those in the middle are the Standard & Poors whereas the closest
                                                                                         weaker fiscal performers. The report identifies comparable public company in Canada today would
                                                                                         among the Superwinners LVMH on the luxury end be Montreal-based Gildan Activewear, which makes
                                                                                         with H&M and TJX (Winners, Marshall’s) in the basic t-shirts and socks. If Greenspan were around,
                                                                                         discount arena.                                          he might note a divergence in the performance of
                                                                                                                                                  private high-end companies versus those dressing
                                                                                         Giant Tiger celebrated 50 years since opening in the middle market.
                                                                                         Ottawa’s Byward Market. The company has stepped
                                                                                         up its fashion and moved into the void left by Sears, Despite the collapsing fortunes of Victoria’s Secret,
                                                                                         Target and Zellers by opening 201 stores in cost- two Canadian underwear companies do provide
                                                                                         conscious secondary markets. Its profitable business promising predictions of the economic future.
                                                                                         model competes with Walmart.                             Saxx men’s underwear became the fastest growing
                                                                                         “By keeping our costs low, we compete on price and underwear brand in North America. Founded in
                                                                                         still make a profit,”                                    Vancouver in 2006, it is known for its patented
                                                                                           ~ Andy Gross, President and CEO of Giant Tiger ‘ballpark’ pouch. Trent Kitsch, Saxx founder, has
                                                                                                                                                  moved on from underwear to construction, cannabis
     Giant Tiger men’s ACX reversible packable puffer
                                                                                         High Cost of Returns                                     and wineries in the Okanagan after selling Saxx in
                                                                                                                                                  2015.
                              Courtesy of Giant Tiger                                    The volume and costs of returns are staggering.
                                                                                         In the U.S. and probably in Canada, 11% of total Knix (Knixwear) is a body-positive brand for women
  Digital Disruptors Weakening
                                                                                         annual retail sales are returned and of those returns started by Joanna Griffiths in Toronto in 2013.
  For some time, bricks and mortar retailers have                                        13% are apparel items and 9% are footwear, according She led her company’s growth by acquiring highly
  raced to join direct-to-consumer sales on digital                                      to the National Retail Federation.                       engaged customers and adding a range of specialized
  platforms. To compete with lower overhead,                                                                                                      wire-free products that address parts of the market
                                                                                         Another statistic from Shopify should give
  endless aisles and free shipping, traditional retailers                                                                                         previously ignored, like leak-proof fashionable
                                                                                         e-commerce retailers pause: in just four years, the
  had to change their distribution platforms, reduce                                                                                              underwear and a range of sizes more fitting for the
                                                                                         total expected cost of return deliveries swallowed
  their store footprints, and build a seamless and                                                                                                whole population.
                                                                                         by U.S. retailers is up by over 75% and forecast to
  exciting shopping experience.
                                                                                         reach US$550 billion.                                    In the fall of last year, Knix opened its first retail
  Headlines still tout the death of traditional retail but
                                                                                         Recovering expenses on returned merchandise sold locations as long-term popups in Vancouver and
  now there are signs that Amazon, the king of digital
                                                                                         at a discount costs retailers 4.4% of total revenue, Toronto where it introduced loungewear, maternity
  disruption, has fallen on hard times as the costs of
                                                                                         according to DHL. That plus lost sales is why some and Knixteen, a sub-brand of underwear for teens.
  e-commerce returns, delivery, and digital marketing
                                                           retailers are reducing the window for returns from                                                                   Griffiths has raised $1 million through a record-
  take a toll.
                                                           30 to 14 days or less. Others are trying the subscription                                                            setting crowd-funding campaign and small
  In addition, Quebec and Saskatchewan introduced model or asking consumers to pay higher ‘restocking’                                                                          investments from advisors like Bravado Designs
  new local sales taxes for foreign sellers a year ago, fees. These policies might help, but they may not go                                                                    plus a partnership with Nordstrom. Last year she
  something the Retail Council of Canada and local over well with customers used to more leeway.                                                                                raised $5.7 million towards the next phase of growth
  retailers such as Larry Rosen have been seeking The competition is just one click away.                                                                                       through Action Capital.
  for a long time.

      Cut To The Future
      Graysha Audren, BA Textile Design, presented the design concept
      “Seamless Woven Workwear For The Automated Future” as part
      of the “Designing in Turbulent Times” exhibit at the University of
      Arts in London. The weaving techniques bypasses traditional cut and
      sew processes to create seamless garments of organic cotton and natural
      indigo engineered directly on the loom.
                                              Seamless workwear design by Graysha Audren
                                                                 UAL exhibit, London 2019
                                                                          Photo : K. Mogg

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                                                                                                                                    Stores With Nothing To Sell
                                                                                                                                    Luxury brands display minimal stock in highly controlled environments.
                                                                                                                                    Canada Goose, for example, has opened a theatrically frozen but empty store
                                                                                                                                    at CF Sherway Gardens in Toronto. There is a crevasse, fake ice and a room
                                                                                                                                    resembling a snow globe, but almost no inventory. CEO Dani Reiss expects
                                                                                                                                    to attract customers in search of an experience who then shop and post online
                                                                                                                                    and tell their friends all about it. The new store is a marketing exercise to link
                                                                                                                                    the brand with the harsh, cold north and to distinguish it from the increasing
                                                                                                                                    number of premium coat competitors with high-end retail stores.
                                                                                                                                    Reiss told the National Post, “You’re entering a new world. You’re entering
                                                                                                                                    the world of Canada Goose. You’re entering the Arctic.” He also explained that
                                                                                                                                    the store is not accountable for achieving the typical performance metrics
     Ribbit app used by BIA’s in Toronto to encourage local shopping with rewards                                                   at other stores.

  Delivery Too expensive To Be Disruptive                                            “There are measurable objectives to do with this store, but they don’t have to do
                                                                                     with store performance or sales per square foot or any of that stuff. I think that
  In the online food marketplace, delivery costs are the reason 37% of people would drive the wrong behaviour.”
  choose not to order. Where market demand exists but rental rates are prohibitive,
  restaurants are turning to ‘cloud kitchens’ to cook up better profits with no Luxury brands regularly introduce new, exquisite products and accomplish that
  front-of-house and no wait staff. Similarly, shoppers abandon online shopping by hiring star designers who inject new concepts and bring along their followers.
  carts at clothing retailers when they see the additional shipping costs.           So far, Canada Goose is taking a marketing approach.

  Amazon and Shopify are both building last mile distribution centres in proximity Fast-growing luxury reseller The RealReal posts an annual list of the top 10
  to some of Canada’s larger markets, but free same day or next day deliveries is most-searched-for brands. Gucci and Louis Vuitton are the top two followed
  expensive. In search of a solution that lets the company stock more product and by third place Chanel with less than half the interest. Demand for Gucci
  fulfill faster, Nordstrom has partnered with two robotics startups, Attabotics and increased by 78 percent but Balenciaga had the most impressive gains taking
  Tompkins Robotics, in a test of a new type of automated distribution centre in it to tenth spot for the first time. In the report issued in August, Sasha Skoda,
  San Jose, CA.                                                                      category director for women’s, said that when young visionary designers are
                                                                                     brought on board it helps heritage labels reach the top ten.
                                                                                                                                    “Balenciaga brought in Demna Gvasalia, Louis Vuitton brought in Virgil Abloh
                                                                                                                                    in men’s, and Gucci brought in Alessandro Michele. They all re-imagined the
                                                                                                                                    brands in ways that speak to the Millennial and Gen Z customer base in a way
                                                                                                                                    they previously have not.”

                                                                                                                                    NRF 2020 Preview
                                                                                                                                    Every January, the National Retail Federation hosts the “Big Show” in New York.
                                                                                                                                    Technology suppliers offer retail tools to improve every aspect of merchandise
                                                                                                                                    planning, store operations, e-commerce, distribution and delivery services to
           AMEX shop small campaign for the Saturday after Black Friday 2019                                                        packaging, in-store display, consumer tracking and engagement.
                                                                                    One of the challenges retailers have is evaluating which tech is right for them
  Digital Marketing Costs Soar                                                      and how to affordably integrate the new cloud-based ‘big data’ options into
  Search advertising has slowed globally, according to research by WARC. Global their legacy systems in a way that will give them a competitive edge. A full
  search ad spend will rise 9.6% this year ($135.5 billion), the slowest rate since roster of candid guest speakers and an Innovation Lounge full of interesting
  2015. The share of search internet advertising remains about the same proportion startup ideas provide an opportunity to gather valuable retail insights.
  at 45.8%. Google controls 95% of search in Canada, but increased search
  competition from Amazon has prompted testing of new revenue sources:
  increased ad prominence in search engine results page; increased number of Food for Dinosaurs
  ads in the same auctions; and forced search placements to other properties like Department stores and malls have been referred to as retail dinosaurs.
  YouTube and Google Maps.                                                          Some are successfully avoiding extinction by selling off real estate (HBC) or
  That last trend could impact independent retailers. Implementing automated battling back with smaller urban formats supported by smart warehousing and
  ‘smart’ formats for shopping and local campaigns takes control and distribution (Ikea). Some profitably sub-let space to brands and other retailers.
  transparency away from advertisers. Some retailers looking for shoppers with Events, private brands and ‘discovery’ merchandise help to draw traffic.
  ‘search intent’ may do better by migrating their ad spend to Pinterest, Food also draws shoppers as evidenced by fine dining at Collette inside Holt
  YouTube, Quora or Facebook where consumers spend more time researching Renfrew at Yorkdale Mall. Even the smallest retailer can add hospitality to the
  before making a purchase decision.                                      shopping experience by setting up a beverage barista, offering packaged foods
  In November, Pinterest announced a new profile page in the U.S. called or take-out treats.
  Pinterest Shop. Seventeen small brands were ‘selected’ to upload their                                                            For inspiration look to the great food halls of the world like the one at Harrods with
  catalogues as part of Pinterest’s strategy to offer marketers an alternative to                                                   its robust multisensory experience. Harrod’s Motorcar Garage and Workshops
  Google, Facebook and, increasingly, Amazon as a destination for their digital                                                     actually functioned as a warehouse from 1911 to 2016 when it was transformed
  ad buys. If the initiative is successful the roster of businesses may expand to                                                   into luxury residences, offices and small ground-floor retail in close proximity
  include both USA and international brands.                                                                                        to Chanel, Joseph, J. Crew and Stella McCartney.

  18            TRENDS 4January 2020
44 INDUSTRY NEWS
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   IN SP I RATI O N & I N S I G H T

                                                                   High Fashion Fabrics
                                                                   A newly refreshed Musée des Tissus
                                                                   de Lyon has “reinvented itself as a
                                                                   place of inspiration and reflection
                                                                   celebrating the textile industry through
                                                                   fashion, design and digital technology”
                                                                   An exhibit on until March 8, 2020,
                                                                   showcases works of the late Yves                                                                                                          Christian Louboutin Pigalle shoe,
                                                                   Saint Laurent featuring a replication                                                                                                                © Christian Louboutin
                                                                   of his studio with colour charts and                                                                                                          Photo : Jean Vincent Simone
                                                                   fabric sample books along with
                                                                   25 pieces from his haute couture                                                                                                   Christian Louboutin
                                                                   collections from 1962 to 2002.                                                                                                     On February 26, the Christian
                                                                   The exhibit features sketches, muslins,                                                                                            Louboutin L’exhibition[niste] opens
                                                                   photographs, and finished garments                                                                                                 in Paris at the Palais de la Porte
                                                                   seen only on the runway. Stunning                                                                                                  Dorée. Olivier Gabet, director of the
                                                                   jacquards, chiffon, taffeta and velvets                                                                                            Musée des Arts Décoratifs, with the
                                                                   created by renowned silk weavers                                                                                                   financial sponsorship of Nordstrom,
                                                                   from the area will also be on display.                                                                                             has curated an exhibit from the designer’s
                                                                   The show stopper is a gold and                                                                                                     private collection.
                         Yves Saint Laurent                        jewel-encrusted ‘Shakespeare’ wedding                                                                                              During his adolescence, Louboutin
                 Shakespeare wedding dress                         dress from 1980 designed by YSL.                                                                                                   lived near the museum that was to
                                                                                                                                                                                                      play an influential role in his early
                                                                                                                                                                                                      designs beginning in 1991. Forms and
                                                                                                                                                                                                      motifs, such as the metallic leathers of
                                                                                                                                       Yves Saint Laurent Cleopatra Dress                             his Maquereau shoe, were inspired
                                                                                                                                       Spring Summer 1990 haute couture
                                                                                                                                                     © Yves Saint Laurent
                                                                                                                                                                                                      by the iridescent fish in the museum’s
                                                                                                                                                     Photo : Pierre Verrier                           tropical aquarium. A cartoon of a shoe
                                                                                                                                                                                                      with a red ‘X’ forbidding visitors to
                                                                                                                                                                                                      wear high-heels was the inspiration
                                                                                                                                                                                                      for his iconic Pigalle shoe.

                                                                                                                                                               Yves Saint Laurent                         Yves Saint Laurent silk suit (detail)
                                                                                                                                                           Cleopatra dress (detail)                      Spring Summer 1990 haute couture
                                                                                                                                                             Photo : Sophie Carré                                      © Yves Saint Laurent
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Photo : Sophie Carré
                                                                                                                                     Canadian Design Excellence
                                                                                                                                     In 2017, Avyn Omel, in St. Mary’s, Ontario, launched her brand of ageless
                                                                                                                                     apparel designed with a dancer’s understanding of the body in motion and an
                                                                                                                                     approach to excellence in craftsmanship. In March 2018, she showed her first
                                                                                                                                     collection in Paris. In 2019, she won the RBC Foundation Design Exchange
                                                                                                                                     (DX) Award for an emerging Canadian fashion designer. The collection is
                                                                                                                                     produced in Veneto, Italy, using Italian and Japanese fabrics, leather and down.
                                                                                                                                     Avyn styles are a minimalist contemporary merge of masculine and feminine
                                            Silk and cotton sateen overcoat and silk plisse dress                                    that draws on earlier work at conceptual fashion design studios in London and
                                               SS20 collection by Canadian designer Avyn Omel                                        Berlin. Her collection for AW 20/21 will show in Paris in February. The collection
                                            Photo : Marina Denisova Courtesy of Avyn Studio Inc.                                     is sold at INK in Hong Kong and Zoven Boutique in Shenzen, China.

  20            TRENDS 4January 2020
R ETAIL
                                                       Many shop windows have gone dark in big                 once avoided. An additional incentive comes from
                                                       cities and small towns, in malls and on main streets.   consumers who are willing to pay more for a
                                                       Cheap capital, e-commerce competition and perverse      shopping experience and personal services from

SUCCESS
                                                       tax incentives have combined to make it difficult       interesting and locally connected shops.
                                                       for some retailers to operate profitably. Some         This confluence of market forces might just make
                                                       Canadian municipalities and commercial property        the best conditions for independent retailers to thrive.
                                                       owners have begun to reassess the important role

           A Bounty of
                                                                                                              Policy shifts can go some way to lifting barriers, but
                                                       small retail plays in sustaining their communities.    for independent fashion retailers, competition remains
                                                       Municipal policies, such as vacancy tax rebates and intense and success requires astute identification
             Boutique                                  highest use valuations, have resulted in raised rents, of opportunities, investment in innovative concepts
                                                       which hastened the demise of many independent and products, and nimble execution.

             Ingenuity                                 retail businesses. While low interest rates have Here are five retailers achieving success in very
                                                       helped real estate investors enjoy escalated real different ways. One thing they all have in common
                                                       estate values, e-commerce has affected large tenants is a founder with international experience:
                                   By Kirsten Mogg     of mall and commercial real estate owners who now NARCES - a petite glamour spot
                                                       face their own vacancy challenges.                     BRIKA - a popup provider
Savvy small retailers launch new business ideas          Some landlords have always embraced small unique STYLEARTIST - a cottage industry innovator
while landlords and municipalities begin to recognize retail concepts and even large Real Estate Investment INDOCHINO - a rising star in mass customization
that retail independents have an important role to play. Trusts see the rationale for including retailers they BANK & VOGUE - a remarkable recycler and reseller.

                                 Narces Atelier
          New boutique on Davenport Rd. Toronto
                               Photo : K. Mogg

NA RCES AT E L I E R                                                                        Narces Atelier
                                                                                  Photo : George Pimentel
A Petite Glamour Spot
                                                                                                                                                      Narces Atelier
Canadian designer bridal and eveningwear brand,        are on the other. A satin-draped change area is                                   Photo : George Pimentel
NARCES, newly opened a street-front shop on busy       toward the back. The overall effect is friendly, fun
Davenport Road, just north of the Bloor-Yorkville      and intimate. It is definitely less intimidating than “I love having direct contact with my customers.
area in Toronto.                                       many other bridal and eveningwear boutiques.          They tell me what they like.” Wirthenson always
                                                                                                             listens to learns. Relationships and a fitting service
The petite space used to be an artist studio, complete “It fits with how I want my customer to feel:
                                                                                                             are important in this kind of high fashion retail.
with brightly coloured paint splatters on the floors. comfortable when wearing my gowns and enjoying
Narces designer, Nikki Wirthensohn Yassemi, herself themselves.”                                             “I have been surprised at the amount of walk-in traffic
a painter, wanted to keep the artistic impression. She and husband/business partner Stefan Wirthenson we have had when the boutique is open to the public.”
She added her own splashes on the floor, some neon chose the location because it serves clientele who Like many Canadian designers, even though she has
lighting, velvet benches and enormous mirrors have a lifestyle that requires formal eveningwear a built considerable international business and
decorated with flowers.                                and cocktail dresses for weddings, social events and regularly participates in runway shows, it is tough to
Her sumptuous contemporary bridal gowns are galas. She offered custom fittings by appointment get local attention. Already she believes that having
hung in alcoves on one side, and colourful, at her old studio and continues the practice at the a street-front retail presence helps to increase
shimmery statement-making eveningwear pieces new location.                                      awareness of the NARCES brand.

22      TRENDS 4January 2020
B RIK A
A Transition to Turnkey Retail Solutions
Artisan curator Brika announced plans last summer to reposition as a B2B
marketplace provider. Since 2015, their POS, marketing, distribution and retail
platforms have been proven in-house, at street popup events, at large retailers
like Hudson’s Bay, and at shopping centres like Yorkdale and CF Square One.
Brika now offers its own turnkey temporary retail solution covering staffing,
interior design, inventory curation, merchandising, reporting, moving and storage.
Brika can source appropriate vendors as part of a short-term shopping
experience with a collective theme for customers planning to revitalize or fill
vacant or low-traffic space.

                                                                                                             Brika created the ‘Wool Land’ popup in Yorkville Village
                                                                                                                                                   Photo : K. Mogg

                                                                                     Nordic Themed Mini Market
                                                                                     Brika partnered with Yorkville Village to craft the ‘WoolLand Nordic & Noël Edit’,
                                                                                     a popup mini market from late October to early January. A complimentary
                                                                                     woolland.ca e-commerce site accompanied its launch featuring style influencer
                                                                                     Liv Judd and Brika co-founder Jen Lee Koss who both have family connections
                                                                                     to Norway and the Nordic lifestyle.
                                                                                     Campisi said the event successfully combined a cold-weather theme with
                                                                                     active outdoor fashion.
                                                                                     “Winter weather was the synergy this time for the Wool Land brand from
                                                                                     Norway and the related Nordic-themed products have done very well.”

Forough compact tote by Zvelle,
the Toronto-based brand of fine
leather handbags and stylish
shoes was among the retail pop-
ups in Yorkville Village in late 2019.

                                                Canadian-made Apres sweater                                            Brika's ‘Wool Land’ popup in Yorkville Village
                                            Photo Courtesy of GOGO Sweaters                                                                        Photo : K. Mogg

First Capital Realty Inc.                                                            Temporary Retail Is Ongoing
The enclosed renovated shopping centre at Yorkville Village in Toronto is            The popup retail phenomenon is not going away. As a mini-market curated by
Canada’s premium retail mecca. Much of the nearby street-front retail space is       providers such as Brika or as a retail space dedicated to an individual brand,
owned by First Capital Realty Inc., one of Canada's leading developers owning        popups are becoming the market expansion tool of choice for online retailers
and operating mixed-use urban real estate. The company is also an active             because it is a competitive solution in an era where digital marketing costs and
co-owner and host of Toronto Fashion Week. Still, even a luxury mall owner           clutter have escalated. It also benefits both the vendor and the property owner
needs to drive steady foot traffic to its stores and to maximize rent on vacant or   by combining physical and digital retail to conduct test marketing that leads to
underutilized common space.                                                          a compelling product suited to the location and its shopper audience.
“We have been working with Brika since 2016 to bring new brands and products         Campisi expects Yorkville Village to continue to have popups in the smaller retail
in short leasing inside Yorkville Village common areas.” ~ Melissa Campisi,          spaces promoting brands that compliment but do not compete with other tenants.
manager of strategic partnerships and event marketing at Yorkville Village
                                                                                     “We have popups right now with Zvelle (fashion footwear and handbags) and
First Capital has assets of $10.6 billion and an interest in 166 properties, about   The Good Goddess (nutrition products, chic workout and après-gym wear),
25.1 million square feet of gross leasable area. The company reported a 96.7%        which fit perfectly with the fashion and health and wellness interests of our
occupancy rate on September 30, 2019 with a net rental rate increase of 11.8%        clientele. They each have a strong online presence, but are not available
over the previous year.                                                              anywhere else at retail in Toronto.”

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44 RETAIL SUCCESS
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  S T YLEART I S T
  Style With Service
  Port Carling is the municipal centre of the District of Muskoka Lakes and has
  an established population of 6,588. The local Chamber of Commerce lists 38
  shops. One might think the only fashion finds in Muskoka are casual t-shirts,
  shorts, boat shoes, and the occasional fleece hoodie for cool nights. So why did
  Catherine Abela open her first fashion-conscious StyleArtist retail location
  there?

                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Photo Courtesy of StyeArtist

                                                                                                                                     The challenges of a short season, short-supply employees and online competition
                                                                                                                                     were some of the issues recently tackled at an event hosted by the Muskoka Small
                                                                                                                                     Business Centre featuring longtime retail consultant, Barbara Crowhurst.
                                                                                                                                     Corey Moore, the communications and economic development specialist for
                                                                                                                                     the Township of Muskoka Lakes, says that there isn’t much in the way of
                                                                                                                                     data or economic development grants to assist local business owner’s who are
                                                                                                                                     directed to the Chamber of Commerce for resources and training or to The
                                                                                                                                     Small Business Centre for loans through Muskoka Futures.
                                                                                                                                     The municipality along with two others in the area (Lake of Bays, Georgian Bay)
                                                                                                                                     and three BIA’s (Bracebridge, Gravenhurst and Huntsville), applied jointly and
                                                                                                                                     won a $60,000 grant from the Ontario program for digital transformation of
                                                                                                                                     small main streets.
                                                                                                                                     “The group received the Digital Main Street grant and we will be launching a
                                                                                                                                     program with a local squad in early 2020 to help local businesses develop their
                                                                                                                                     online presence,” Corey Moore confirmed in December.

                                                                                                                                     Testing the Waters - Timing Store Openings
                                                                                                                                     Abela is ahead of the game having first tested her retail concept online.
                                                                                                                                     “StyleArtist launched in 2017 as an online only shop, yet after the first year
                                                                            StyleArtist fashions on the dock                         of business we received many requests for an in-person shopping experience.
                                                                             at Duke’s Marina, Port Carling                          In 2018 we tested a couple of pop up shops, one in Muskoka and one in
                                                                               Photo Courtesy of StyeArtist
                                                                                                                                     midtown Toronto, and both proved successful.”
  “Spending a good part of my summers in Muskoka over the years, I recognized                                                        In 2019, Abela leased her first permanent small space in Port Carling’s historic
  an underserved market and the opportunity to bring a Toronto store to the Lakes.                                                   Duke’s waterfront marina, a busy hub of activity during the summer.
  The women spending their summers in Muskoka are largely my target customers,                                                       The 1930’s building was originally a boat repair workshop purchased in 2011
  including existing clients.”                                                                                                       by Kathy McCarthy and Jeremy Fowler who restored the building and divided
                                                                                                                                     it into several commercial spaces.
  Abela’s retail instincts were right. The Muskoka lakes are a summertime play-
  ground for Toronto area and international folk who have enjoyed the area’s Abela chose a location off the main shopping street as StyleArtist would be open
  waters and natural wonders since roads, steamships and railroads made the area only during the peak summer and shoulder seasons. Last spring, the opening
  more accessible around the time of Confederation.                               was delayed due to record flooding, but the store was busy every day - not just
                                                                                  on weekends.
  Today, a more sophisticated Muskoka offers Pilates classes, shopping at marinas
  and popular dockside lunch spots. It boasts high-end associations such as
  ‘Cottage Country’ and ‘Hamptons of the North’. More luxury waterfront homes
                                                                                  Social Shopping
  than rustic cabins now perch on the rugged landscape dotted with rocks, trees As a buyer for Town Shoes and Hudson’s Bay, Abela understood how today’s
  and historic retreats like the Victorian-era Windemere House on Lake Rosseau. customers prefer to shop and she developed a keen eye for spotting fashion that
                                                                                  will sell. A travelling executive with a busy family life, she has developed some
  Local Knowledge and Resources                                                   practical tips for building a closet that makes getting dressed for work, leisure
  In summer, the population swells to 27,000. One can expect such a seasonal or travel less stressful. Above all, she recognized a need by some women to be
  boom of cottagers and visitors to benefit local businesses and, anecdotally fashionably dressed at work or on the dock without wasting time shopping for
  at least, tourism and residential construction businesses are booming. clothes. Not everyone enjoys endless scrolling online to find a suitable fashion
  However, data on tourist spending and consumer shopping patterns is lacking. and fit.
  Understanding such a highly seasonal market is critical to any retail business                                                     “Our business model is a little unique. A significant amount of our revenue
  plan and to retailers attempting to assess prospective locations.                                                                  is generated through shopping parties and personal shopping appointments.”

  24            TRENDS 4January 2020
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