Sailing Magazine October 2018 - For Sailors, by Sailors - 48 North
←
→
Page content transcription
If your browser does not render page correctly, please read the page content below
Sailing Magazine
October 2018
For Sailors, by Sailors
October Offerings - New & Brokerage - Sail & Power
NEW FROM J/BOATS!
Sailnorthwest.com
Shilshole Marina Suite 140
33’ J/99 Speedster 206-286-1004 - sales@sailnorthwestcom
Sail & Power - New & Brokerage
2003 J/160 $575,000 2011 Bestevear 45st $575,000 1980 Tartan 37 $67,000
2001 J/46 PRICE REDUCED TO $325,000 2002 SAFE Boat T-Top Yanmar Diesel Reduced $46,000
2006 J/109 $169,000
MORE SAIL LISTINGS
42’ 1983 Cooper 416................................. $75,000
40’ 1994 J/120............................................ $119,000
37’ 2015 Rustler..........................Reduced $400,000 1994 Grand Banks 42 $274,000
34’ 1999 J/105............................................. $59,000 MORE POWER LISTINGS
34’ 1982 Dash..............................Reduced $21,900
33’ 2007 e Sailing Yacht............................ $64,900 36’ 1983 Island Gypsy...............Reduced $40,000
32’ 1986 Gulf...............................Reduced $37,500 28’ 2014 Cutwater..................................... $149,000
30’ 1997 Henderson...................Reduced $23,000 22’ 2008 Chris Craft..................Reduced $30,000
30’ 1989 C&C 30 MKII..............Reduced $30,900 SEE MORE PHOTOS AT OUR WEBSITE
23’ 2012 J/70 ...................NEW LISTING $34,900 SAILNORTHWEST.COM
2 October 2018 www.48North.com
4 FUN FALL SAILING EVENTS
OCTOBER 21
SAIL TO BLAKE ISLAND
MEMBERSHIP
OCTOBER 25-29
ASA 103/104 CRUISE N LEARN
SAILING LESSON
OCTOBER 20/21
ASA 114 CRUISING CATAMARAN
SAILING LESSON
NOVEMBER 18
CHILI COOK-OFF &
RACE TO BLAKELEY ROCK
MEMBERSHIP
MEMBERSHIP. LESSONS. PRO SHOP.
TEAM BUILDING/CORPORATE PROGRAMS
(206) 782-5100 - WWW.SEATTLESAILING.COM
www.48North.com October 2018 3
Sailing Magazine
A view of the rig and the big spinnaker
on the new J/97E. The boat test article is
on page 28.
Photo by Joe Cline.
4 October 2018 www.48North.com
O c t o b e r 2018 Artist’s View - Secrets of the Salish Sea 19 Red-necked Grebe: Winter guests in the Pacific Northwest. By Larry Eifert Arctic Watch 20 Passagemaking through ice is intense and incredible. By Becca Guillote Voyage of the Heart 22 Loss, exploration, and healing in the Salish Sea. By Irene Panke Hopkins Exploring Rapa Nui 24 Several weeks cruising in the shadow of the Moai statues. By Jon Henderson Lessons Learned While Cruising 26 GRIB Thing - Part Two. By Jamie and Behan Gifford 48° North Boat Test: J/97E 28 We go sailing on a fast, fun, and versatile new boat. By Joe Cline Galley Essentials with Amanda 30 Exploring historic Cornwall, and eating very well. By Amanda Swan Neal How-To: Install Hydronic Heat 32 Often the most versatile and efficient heating system. By Alex and Jack Wilken The Hottest Cold-Weather Regatta 35 Do Round the County right - tips and tricks for this year. By Andy Schwenk Preparing for a Traveling Regatta 38 Sharing the experience of chartering a boat on the East Coast. By Bryan Rhodes 48° North Race Report 40 PITCH, Pink Boat, TransPuget, Melges 24 Nationals, and more! DEPARTMENTS Editorial 6 Crossword 17 Letters 8 Product News 18 Calendar 12 Classified Ads 47 Lowtide 13 Brokerage/Listings 54 Books 16 Index to Advertisers 62 Trivia 17 This month’s Cover, “Pax,” is by local artist, Jim A. Jacobson. Original oils and commissions at www.jajacobson.com www.48North.com October 2018 5
Autumn Reflections on a Summer Cruise
Autumn brings with it the opportunity to
make new sailing memories in the ever-building
October breeze. It also offers the chance to look Volume XXXVIII, Number 3, October 2018
back on a fabulous summer of sailing. Here’s my 6327 Seaview Ave. NW
favorite memory from my summer on the water, in Seattle, WA 98107
this case, from our Cascadia Cruising Rally. What’s (206) 789-7350, fax (206) 789-6392
your summer sailing highlight? Website: www.48north.com
Publisher
I grabbed a cockpit cushion and tiptoed up to The Northwest Maritime Center
the bow of our borrowed Canadian Sailcraft 40,
Black Bird, that was anchored off Medicine Beach in Editor
Bedwell Harbor. I propped the cushion at an angle Joe Cline
email: joe@48north.com
against the pulpit and plopped down on it. With a moment of cell service and
the rest of the crew headed for bed, I finally got a chance to call my bride-to-be, Associate Editor/Race/Current Events:
Kaylin. We were only a month away from the wedding and there were as many Karen Higginson
loose ends to tie-up as there were rocks on the beach. You’d think that a cellphone email: karen@48north.com
call wouldn’t be the time you feel most in the moment, but as we caught up about
Advertising Sales
the last few days and the thousand wedding projects, I was soon describing my Scott Pittrof
surroundings to her. In this description, I found myself noticing and appreciating email: scott@48north.com
the beauty around me as much as any other time on the trip before or after.
I leaned my head back against the cool blue cushion and told her about the Classifieds/Display Advertising
stars. The Milky Way wasn’t the faint transparent stripe I’m used to. It was a Benjamin Harter
email: benjamin@48north.com
galactic superhighway, a block of distant stars so distinct it looked like you could
reach out and grab hold. A shooting star went nearly horizon to horizon while Bookkeeper
we spoke. The constellations I recognize were almost imperceptible, awash in an bookkeeper@48north.com
ocean of stars that are usually invisible because of city light or my own impatience
at the onset of night vision. Contributing Editors
Culinary Cruiser: Amanda Swan Neal
I turned my attention to the water below. It was dead calm; a perfect
Photographer: Jan Anderson
anchorage. There was only the occasional whispered lapping sound where the
hull joined the dark brine. While I gazed, trying to make out the reflections of 48° North is published as a project of the
the stars, a fish darted out from underneath the boat. Then another. And another. Northwest Maritime Center in Port Townsend, WA
Each one trailed behind it a stream of bright green bioluminescent algae that was - a 501(c)3 non-profit organization whose mission
reminiscent of the shooting star I had just been awed by moments ago. The air is to engage and educate people of all generations
smelled salty, of course, but it was not damp the way it sometimes can be on the in traditional and contemporary maritime life,
water. I strained to see another shooting-star fish, but none appeared before my in a spirit of adventure and discovery. Nothwest
attention was taken by the slap of a seal with a fish dinner. The “thwapp” echoed Maritime Center: 431 Water St, Port Townsend,
against the cliffs of Mount Norman. WA 98368, (360)385-3628.
48° North encourages letters, photographs,
I figured I must sound insufferable, waxing poetic like this, and tried to
manuscripts, burgees, and bribes. Emailed
change the subject, “So, did you get the invoice from the caterer?” manuscripts and high quality digital images
“Yeah, it’s all good. Keep going. What else?” she replied. are best, but submissions via mail or delivered
How lucky did I get with this woman? I looked to the boats around me. in person are still most welcome!
Several were rafted up to us, with lights out and no movement. Is there better We are not responsible for unsolicited
night’s sleep than the one you get on a cruising boat in a placid anchorage? A materials. Articles express the author’s
friend’s boat was anchored just a ways off. His light was on. He was tidying the thoughts and may not reflect the
cockpit. He stopped, then did that movement we all do on deck from time to opinions of the magazine.
time - scanning slowly, turning, trying to see what little jobs still need to be done. Reprinting in whole or part is
expressly forbidden
Satisfied, he ducked under the dodger and into the cabin. His boat rocked a little
except by permission
with his movement, but the ripples never made it to us. The glow of his cabin from the editor.
lights warmed the cool black surface of the water. He was singlehanding, and I
wondered whether he would read a book, or just quietly find his bunk and drift Subscription Rates:
off thinking about today’s travels, or tomorrow’s. U.S. one year - $25 -
“You know, if I’ve got to be away from home, I’m pretty glad this is where I 3rd Class
am,” I said. (3rd Class is not
“I wish I was there.” automatically forwarded)
“Me too.” 1st Class in U.S. - $35 U.S Funds
Canada Printed Matter - $35 U.S. Funds
I hope you’ve had a great summer on the water, Over-Seas Foreign Air Mail - $65 U.S. Funds
Joe Cline, Editor, 48° North
6 October 2018 www.48North.com
www.nwyachtnet.com
The Northwest’s Premier Yacht Broker Network
Swantown Marina Office Tacoma Waterfront Office Lake Union Waterfront Office
700 Marine Dr. NE, Suite 105 1717 Dock Street 1500 Westlake Ave. N, Suite 102
Olympia, WA • 888-219-5485 Tacoma, WA • 888-641-5901 Seattle, WA • 877-215-0559
More Information on
over 80 listings at
www.NWYachtnet.com
49' Schooner Chapelle '90.150,000
43' Wauquiez CC '82........... 109,000
49' Schooner Pinky '90 $150,000 43' Slocum Cutter '84 SOLD 43' Wauquiez CC '82 $109,000 43' Slocum Cutter '84..............SOLD
We’re Selling 43' Hunter 430 ‘96.................. 99,400
Quality Listings! 42' Endeavour CC '88........... 49,000
41' Lord Nelson '82...................SOLD
Your Yacht Could 41' Morgan CC '87................ 79,900
Be Shown Here. 40' Malo Sloop '10............... 392,500
43' Hunter 430 '96 $99,400 42' Endeavour CC '88 $49,000 39' Cal MkII '79....................... 99,900
38' CT Fast Cruiser ‘86........... 49,900
38' German Frers IOR '82.........SOLD
37' C&C ‘84..............................SOLD
37' Valiant Esprit '85............... 99,999
36' Morgan Out Island ‘73.... 22,000
41' Lord Nelson '82 SOLD 41' Morgan CC '87 $79,900 40' Malo Sloop '10 $392,500 36' Catalina Sloop '90.............SOLD
36' Nauticat PH '85..................SOLD
35' Wauquiez Pre. '81............ 85,000
35' Fuji Ketch '74.................... 29,999
34' Catalina Sloop '86........... 39,500
34' Tartan T34C '78................. 34,900
34' X-Yacht X-342 '89...............SOLD
39' Cal MkII '79 $99,900 38' CT Fast Cruiser '86 $49,900 37' Valiant Esprit '85 $99,999
32' Islander '77........................ 29,000
31' Cal '79.................................SOLD
30' Catalina Tall Rig '80......... 19,999
30' Catalina Sloop '79........... 25,000
29' Cascade Custom '77...... 23,500
Six of our Brokers are 28' Cape Dory Sloop '83....... 28,500
36' Catalina Sloop '90 SOLD Certified Professionals 36' Nauticat PH '85 SOLD
28' Hunter Sloop '96............... 29,400
TRAWLERS
80' Hatteras MY '81.............. 869,000
70' Ocean Alex '17........... 3,375,000
60' Nordlund PH '79............. 199,000
35' Wauquiez Pre. '81 $85,000 38' Linssen Grand Sturdy 380 '04 37' Fountaine Pajot Maryland '00 49' Grand Banks Cl '85...... $299,500
SOLD Power Cat SOLD 42' Grand Banks ‘92............ 269,000
38' Lissen Grand Sturdy...........SOLD
37' Fountaine Pajot '00............SOLD
Dealers for:
Wauquiez PS Yachts
New Fairway Yachts Wauquiez Pilot Saloon Yachts Linssen Dutch Steel Yachts
Linssen Steel Yachts
From 37' - 72' In stock 2017 From 42' to 58' Sedan's, Aft Cabin's, Pilot House's
Fairway 37' loaded at $399,500 2018 PS 42 starting at $450,000 30' to 50' starting at $215,000 Fairway Yachts
www.48North.com October 2018 7
Letters
All the Power You Need
48° North at 58° North
Hey 48° North crew,
Model Shown Beta 38 Just thought I’d let you know that I’m enjoying this issue
here in the glacial waters of Alaska!
Engineered to be Serviced Easily!
Thanks,
Don Hebard
S/V Juniper, J/40
Bainbridge Island, WA
Beta Marine West (Distributor)
400 Harbor Dr, Sausalito, CA 94965
415-332-3507
Pacific Northwest Dealer Network
Access Marine
Seattle, WA
206-819-2439
info@betamarineengines.com
www.betamarineengines.com
Sea Marine
Port Townsend, WA
360-385-4000
info@betamarinepnw.com
www.betamarinepnw.com
Deer Harbor Boatworks
Deer Harbor, WA
888-792-2382
customersupport@betamarinenw.com
www.betamarinenw.com
Overnight Row to Port Townsend
Emerald Marine
Anacortes, WA Hey 48° North,
360-293-4161
www.emeraldmarine.com Earlier this month, 48° North fans, Kevin Flick and Matt
Johnson, wanted to attend the Wooden Boat Festival in Port
Oregon Marine Industries Townsend on the weekend September 7-9. So, they rowed to
Portland, OR Port Townsend from Seattle, making the 35-mile trip on the
503-702-0123
omi@integra.net night of September 7, 2018. (continued on page 10)
8 October 2018 www.48North.com
Letters Our business is fun!
MEMBERSHIP VS. OWNERSHIP
SailTime Traditional
What do you pay?
Membership Ownership
Joining Fee of 20% of boat
Getting Started
$1500-$3000 cost
Flexible Membership Fees Yes No
Slip Fees No Yes
Elan Impression 40 Registration No Yes
Fuel No Yes
Maintenance No Yes
Topside Waxing No Yes
Winterization/Haul out No Yes
Bottom Painting No Yes
Boat Loan Payments No Yes
Major Repairs No Yes
Insurance No Yes
The Elan Impression 40 is perfectly suited
Other Advantages
for our SailTime program as it was designed
to satisfy even the most demanding cruising Access to ASA-certified instructors Yes No
families, friends and couples who appreciate Access to 160+ boats at
Yes No
distinctive design, style and comfort. Two 50+ bases around the world
cabin and two head layout. Flexible commitment Yes No
Flexible Payment Options Yes No
Access to Crew Connection Yes No
TWO MEMBERSHIP OPTIONS TO CHOOSE FROM:
As a MEMBER you can enjoy a day, weekend or As a OWNER-MEMBER you enjoy the benefits of
weeklong trips via regular access to the boat you a Member, but you will also be the proud owner
join at either our Seattle or Anacortes location. of a new, fully loaded sailboat and receive
monthly revenue from participating members!
It's this simple: you pay a membership fee, reserve
your time online and then head to the boat!
Either way, no slip fees, no insurance costs and no maintenance troubles - we manage it all for you!
Find out more at www.SailTime.com/Seattle
Seattle @ Shilshole Marina Anacortes @ Anacortes Marina
7001 Seaview Ave NW, Suite 150, Seattle WA 2415 T Ave, Suite 112, Anacortes WA
seattle@sailtime.com 844.692.2487 www.SailTime.com/Seattle
www.48North.com October 2018 9
YAGER SAILS & CANVAS
™
WE DESIGN AND MAKE CUSTOM SAILS FOR Letters
EVERY BOAT IN OUR WASHINGTON LOFT!
They had two boats. One was a classic 17’ lapstrake
We design and build Whitehall with 8’ oars and a fixed seat, appropriate for the
light air sails designed to fly Festival. The other was an experimental structural foam and
free! And fast! fiberglass trimaran with a pedal drive and rudder, designed
and built by Johnson. Fans of Race to Alaska might recognize
Custom asymmetrical Johnson and his pedal boat - he’s been been involved in the
spinnakers & drifters! R2AK in some capacity each of the past few years, including
a second attempt at the full race in 2018.
Custom performance furling Flick, 49, a data scientist, and Johnson, 44, a massage
sails & G-Spinn™ sails!
therapist, left Secret Beach in Shilshole Bay at 6:00 PM, traded
Performance racing sails! boats four times over the night, and arrived off the Taylor
Street dock in Port Townsend at 7:50 AM this morning. By
See our sails in action w/ 8:00 AM, they were tied up to a friend’s anchored trawler,
new drone footage! eating steak and eggs for breakfast.
The seas were calm all night with little wind and
Call now for a favorable tide. It rained lightly for an hour just after
Fall DISCOUNTS! sundown. They navigated in the dark with smart phones.
For safety, they had hand-held VHF radios and an EPIRB
(a small device that broadcasts a signal to satellites in an
emergency), and they shared their location with friends on
Google Maps. The trimaran carried a small outboard motor,
yagersails.com™ strapped to its cowling, which could not have been deployed
™
509.928.1964 ™ while under way. Each boat had a small white light, bright
enough to be seen by the Kingston ferry, which came close
and then cut its engines. The hardest part, they said, was
just before dawn, south of the Port Townsend canal, when
they struggled to stay awake and keep a straight course.
FLAGSHIP
MARITIME
TRAINING
After breakfast, the two cast off from the trawler in the
Captain’s
License
Training
Whitehall and rowed into Port Hudson to attend a 9:00 AM
talk at the festival. On Sunday, the Whitehall went home on
the trawler and the trimaran headed for home on its own,
this time propelled by the outboard motor.
A n y t h i n g
l e s s
…
Thanks
i s
s o m e o n e
e l s e .
Captain Bill Urschel
M/V Endeavor
Seattle, WA
Captain Evans
Dear Joe and Karen,
Upcoming
course
start
dates:
I wanted to share the following story with you and the
48° North readers:
Tacoma
October
8th
Bellingham
October
22 n d
William D. Evans had been a Commander in the
P & O company service for the Royal mail steam packet
Tacoma
November
5 t h
company. When he retired, he lived in Ostend Holland on
a small pension under strained circumstances with his son
Lac
Conner
November
26th
and daughter in-law.
(253)
9 05-‐5972
As it happens, during the year of 1870, the Grand Duke
Nicholas of Russia was visiting Bruges, Holland and he
learned that the good captain lived nearby. On a decent
www.flagshipmaritimellc.com
10 October 2018 www.48North.comLetters The 28’
Bristol Channel Cutter Mk II
day, there came a knock at the door of the Evan’s home.
His daughter in-law answered the door only to find a well
dressed man dressed in the finest of livery attire awaiting
outside. Also, behind him she saw a very large and ornate
coach, waiting. He asked, “Is this the dwelling of Captain
Evans?”
“Yes.” Then she hurried to tell her father-in-law,
“William, there’s a liveryman at the door who is asking for
you.”
Upon approaching the door, the Captain asked. “What
is it you require?”
“You, sir. The Grand Duke Nicholas requests your
presence to play a few games of chess.” A reinterpretation of a classic ocean cruiser by the builders
The good captain frowned, but answered. “I thank you of the Cape George Cutter. Drawing from decades of expe-
my good man, but I’m not available.” He closed the door rience in constructing the world’s finest offshore cutter, this
and returned to his room. new BCC is a welcome addition to our family of designs.
That evening his son and daughter-in-law were
overwhelmed at the invitation that had been given to him,
and that he had refused. Once again stating. “I’ll not go.”
The following day the same events played out once Cape George Marine Works, Inc.
again and, as before, he refused. However, on the third day 1924 Cape George Pl.
the Duke’s personal carriage arrived, but this time it was Port Townsend, WA 98368
with the Duke’s Aides-de-camp who had come to collect (360) 385-3412
him regardless. And, of course, the Captain agreed to go www.capegeorgecutters.com
along. He packed a change of clothes, gathered his pipe and
tobacco, as he knew that a few games of chess was in reality
going to be a few days in the making.
On the last day in the Duke’s presence, the game had
been a hard one, but won by the Captain. At the end of the
game the Duke asked. “You are the one who invented the
‘Evan’s Gambit, are you not?” Experience the Challenges
“Yes, and that is not the only thing I have invented.”
“What was the other?” of Ocean Passage Making
Captain Evans knew the Duke was also an Admiral in
the Russian navy. “The other, and for which you have not as
yet paid me, are the green and red lights your naval ships
use in navigation.”
Several months later and after Captain Evans had been
delivered home safely he was summoned to the cottage door
once again. There stood a well dressed gentleman, who upon
meeting the Captain, invited him to the Russian Embassy,
where there was a message awaiting him. He accompanied
the man in his coach and upon arrival at the embassy was
given a letter from the Grand Duke. He also received a sum
of money as well as a gold chronometer, with a gold chain.
This was given in payment for the rights to use his invention
for what we now simply call, “Running lights.”
So, the red light on our port side and the green light
on our starboard side has a history not normally known to Join expert instructors John and Amanda Neal
many. aboard Mahina Tiare III, their
Hallberg-Rassy 46, for a unique hands-on
Hope you enjoyed that, sail-training expedition.
Donald Boone
Gleneden Beach, OR www.mahina.com 360.378.6131
www.48North.com October 2018 11Lowtide
October
Calendar
22-2 Flagship Maritime Captain’s License Class, Bellingham,
2 Multihull NW Association presents Mark Dix, “R2AK Solo check: www.flagshipmaritimellc.com
Attempt on a Tornado Beachcraft,” www.nwmultihull.org 26-28 SeattleYC Grand Prix Invitational Race, www.seattleyachtclub.org
5-7 Oak Harbor YC Scott Cline Memorial Regatta, www.ohyc.org 27-28 Puget Sound Cruising Club Raft-up at Port Madison Yacht
6 Coast Guard Auxiliary About Boating Safely Course on Club and Pumpkin Carving Contest,
Bainbridge Island, call Grant at (206) 842-5862 or www.pugetsoundcruisingclub.org
Loretta at (360) 779-1657 31 Happy Halloween!
6 CYC Tacoma Point Defiance Race, www.cyct.com
6 CYC Edmonds Foulweather Bluff Race, www.cycedmonds.org November
6 Orcas Island YC Benson Cup, (360) 376-3236
6 Bellingham YC Marmetta Cup, www.byc.org 3 CYC Tacoma Brown’s Point Race, www.cyct.com
6-7 Anacortes YC S’Ale Fest, www.anacortesyachtclub.org 3 WSCYC Fowl Weather Regatta, www.wscyc.net
6-7 Corinthian YC Seattle PSSC Small Boat Regatta, 3 SSSS Herron Island Race, www.ssssclub.com
www.cycseattle.org 5-16 Flagship Maritime Captain’s License Class, Tacoma,
8-19 Flagship Maritime Captain’s License Class, Tacoma, check: www.flagshipmaritimellc.com
check: www.flagshipmaritimellc.com 10-11 Orcas Island YC/Friday Harbor SC Round the County Race,
12-14 West Vancouver YC Pumpkin Regatta, www.wvyc.ca https://oiyc.org
13 SSSS Fall Series #4, www.ssssclub.com 17 Shilshole Bay YC Snowbird #1, www.shilshole-bayyc.org
13 CYC Tacoma Memorial Singlehanded Race, www.cyct.com 17 Gig Harbor YC Lemans Race, www.gigharboryc.com
13-14 Corinthian YC Seattle PSSC Large Boat Regatta, 17 SSSS Squaxin Island Race, www.ssssclub.com
www.cycseattle.org 17-18 Corinthian YC Seattle Turkey Bowl Regatta, www.cycseattle.org
13-22 AMTC Captain’s License Course in Sequim, 22 Happy Thanksgiving!
www.americanmarinetc.com 26-7 Flagship Maritime Captain’s License Class, LaConner,
19 Puget Sound Cruising Club presents Nancy Early, speaking check: www.flagshipmaritimellc.com
on her two world circumnavigations and Night Navigation,
www.pugetsoundcruisingclub.org
20 Hand Sewing Skills of the Ditty Bay Apprenticeship, at The December
Artful Sailor Whole Earth Nautical Supply, Port Townsend,
www.theartfulsailor.com 1 Tacoma YC Winter Vashon Race, tycsail@gmail.com
20 CYC Tacoma Neil Point Race, www.cyct.com 8 Shilshole Bay YC Snowbird #2, www.shilshole-bayyc.org
20 Bellingham YC Jack Island Race, www.byc.org 8-9 US Sailing Judges Seminar at Corinthian YC Seattle,
20 West Sound CYC Commodore’s Cup, www.wscyc.net webalsiger@comcast.net
20 SSSS Eagle Island Race, www.ssssclub.com 10-21 Flagship Maritime Captain’s License Class, Tacoma,
20 Sloop Tavern YC Fall Regatta, www.STYC.org check: www.flagshipmaritimellc.com
21 Sloop Tavern YC Race Your House, www.STYC.org 15 SSSS Hope Island Race, www.ssssclub.com
DAVIS INSTRUMENTS AIR-DRYR SALE
Say Goodbye to Moisture, Mold and Mildew
Air-Dryr is an inexpensive and effective way to fight moisture problems,
cold drafts, and corrosion. Designed to operate anywhere, 24 hours a day.
Reg. $59.99 Reg. $69.99
Sale $39.99 Sale $45.99
Air-Dryr 500 Air-Dryr 1000
• Handles up to 500 cubic feet of living space. • Handles up to 1000 cubic feet of living space.
• Draws only 0.6 amps, 70 watts. • Draws only 1.1 amps, 130 watts.
• Rectangular unit measures 13.5 x 5.5 x 4.25” • Circular unit measures 13.5” in diameter, 4.25” high.
October 1 through 15, 2017
To view these and other great winterizing ideas go to fisheriessupply.com/winterizing-2017
Call us 800.426.6930 FisheriesSupply.com 1900 N. Northlake Way, Seattle
12 October 2018 www.48North.comLowtide
2018
Wooden Boat Festival
I t’s been a weird summer. When
Fogust turned to Smogust, the
wooden boat community mourned
an extra day to avoid the storm).
At an event steeped in tradition,
there were still some notable firsts to
class post-fest rock opera; and, a first-
ever Women’s Offshore Panel, which
packed the room beyond fire code.
the loss of those old growth trees, celebrate: kids’ boatbuilding included Certainly, elders who marked major
knowing that hundreds of beautiful Hokulea voyaging canoes; the 90’ milestones were honored as well.
vessels that were built or restored from Thames River barge, Amara Zee, moored Notable among the latter: Lifetime
wood with roots in our region would on the waterfront rigged for a world- Achievement Awards went to prolific
soon gather at the annual Wooden Boat yacht designer, Bob Perry, and small
Festival in Port Townsend. Luckily, boat restorer and raconteur, Marty
gratitude trumps weirdness. Festival Loken. As concentric circles emanate
exhibitors and attendees tend to express out each decade of Festival, their lists of
overwhelming gratitude - for it is, so thanks included generations attending.
often, the hands and hearts of others Ripples continued with continuous
that enable us to sail, row, or simply toasts at Friday’s celebration where
observe the magnificent works of art Carol Hasse celebrated 40 years in
and craftsmanship, and which remind business at Port Townsend Sails. Her
us of the connections between land, list of thanks was far from finished
sea, and one another. as night fell.
This year may be remembered most Less obvious, but no less essential
for Sunday’s gale. But that blustery exchanges happen constantly at
day just gave us more reason to do Festival. If you were here, you got a
the things we love to do at the Festival years worth of stories. If you weren’t,
anyway - to hang on tightly to the here are a random few that I witnessed
things and people we care about (and on my daily walk to and from PAX. Life-
anything else that might blow away in long sailor and 42-year Festival boat
the wind) and to linger in the magical exhibitor, Lee Caldwell, of Sausalito,
Festival atmosphere (Sunday’s Sail-by quietly rowed his trailered dory around
was cancelled and many of us stayed the harbor each morning. Pete and
www.48North.com October 2018 13Lowtide
Cathy Langley shared the unflappable calm of Festival.
backstory on tables full The chilly temperatures and
of locally-made bronze. sideways rain of Sunday’s
Bolstering the work of 400 gale could not dampen
t-shirt wearing volunteers, our enthusiasm. When the
one of my mentors—Anne 130’ Canadian tall ships
Greer, gave directions to Pacific Grace and Pacific
the Corn Booth, the oldest Swift, had to leave early
exhibitor. While the real- (after the Schooner Cup) due
deal craftspeople, members to the forecast gale, those
of the PT Marine Trades fortunate enough see them
Association, served as made sure the story of their
the unofficial “welcome” presence was not forgotten
committee, while offering by Sunday’s attendees -
advice from their 100+ sharing photos, descriptions,
member businesses. histories, and tales of how
The teen-built boat, the skillful pod of Harbor
Epic, was surrounded by Master ’s dinghies spun,
crowds of youth all weekend. On the spidsgatters, surprise visitors from nudged, and lovingly berthed them
docks, Daniel Evans and Marybeth China, Japan, Australia, and New together for the first time in Point
Armstrong - the passionate longboat Zealand, and warm hugs from former Hudson on Thursday. Speaking of pods,
captain/educators who made me WBF board chair (painter of this Orcas cruised the festival entrance!
believe those hard-to-row boats could month’s 48° North cover) Jim Jacobson, Weird, but there’s not a witness among
change kids’ lives - got their own kids who was stationed near his lapstrake us who isn’t forever grateful.
out on the water. Even the smallest dinghy. Mark your calendar for next year’s
exchanges conjure thanks—the daily I am always struck by the radiant Festival, September 6-8, 2019.
good mornings with Festival icon Sam spirit of generosity, ready wit and by Kaci Cronkhite
Devlin, friends waking on nearby wisdom of the community, and the photos by Karen Higginson
625+ slips for
commercial and
pleasure boats. Blaine Harbor
Over 800’ of Located at the U.S. / Canada border,
year-round With views of the Peace Arch
visitor
moorage.
Quick, easy
access to the
San Juans &
Gulf Islands
Waterfront
trails leading
into historic
downtown Blaine
portofbellingham.com ∙ (360) 647-6176
14 October 2018 www.48North.comLowtide Lowtide
About Boating Safely Multihull NW Association
October 6 Event Factory Trained & Authorized Servicing
Fully Stocked Parts Department
Join us for the 8-hour About October 2: Mark Dix, “R2AK Solo
Boating Safely class, taught by certified Attempt on a Tornado Beachcat: Boat
teachers of the Coast Guard Auxiliary modifications, custom pedal drive,
at Eagle Harbor Congregational preparation, experiences.” Northwest
Church, Bainbridge Island. This Multihull Association meeting at
course meets the mandatory boater 7:00pm at Puget Sound Yacht Club on
education requirements of the State of Lake Union, 2321 N. Northlake Way,
Washington for the Boater Education Seattle. Non-Members are always • Factory trained technicians • Repower or rebuild
Card and is sanctioned by the United welcome. For more information, call • Extensive inventory of Westerbeke & Yanmar parts
States Coast Guard and the State of (206) 795-2111 or www.nwmultihull.org • Mechanical service for sailing & power vessel
Washington. Please pre-register with • Annual maintenance • Troubleshooting
Grant Winther, (206) 842-5862, email: • Free estimates • Our dock or yours
gawsail@sounddsl.com or Loretta Puget Sound Cruising Club
Rindal (360) 779-1657. • Mercruiser • Crusader • Cummins
Events • Volvo • Hino • Lehman
Ready for Rescue PSCC Meeting on Friday, at
Challenge 7:30pm, at North Seattle College.
F o r m o re i n f o r m a t i o n , c h e c k :
The U.S. Department of Homeland www.pugetsoundcruisingclub.org
Security (DHS) Science and Technology
Directorate (S&T), in collaboration with October 19: Nancy Erley on Tethys.
the U.S. Coast Guard Research and Join us for a fun story or two, and a
717 NE Northlake Way Seattle, WA. 98105
Development Center (RDC), launched tech-talk on Night Navigation. 206-547-2477 • www.gallerymarine.com
the U.S. Coast Guard Ready for Rescue Nancy Erley led two voyages from
Challenge, a $255,000 prize competition Seattle, around the world, aboard her
that seeks boater safety solutions that Orca 38 sailboat, Tethys. Darwin says:
will help make it easier to find people Night Navigation - How to travel Hoist
in the water. safely after dark when you have to, those
When a person is separated from and stand a night watch at sea. A Clean Sails
their boat or other watercraft, they can technically rich presentation covering
be left isolated in open waters. A life night vision, navigation aids and lights
jacket or personal floatation device on shore, vessel identification, collision Dirt
(PFD) keeps a person afloat while they avoidance at night, radar, night time doesn't
seek safety. deck safety protocols, watch scheduling
This call for concepts is the first and more. stand
phase of an anticipated three-phase October 27-28: PSCC Raft-up a Ghost
prize competition. Phase I concepts Pumpkin carving contest and
could include a new or updated life potluck at Port Madison Yacht Club. of a
jacket or PFD, an attachment to a chance
life jacket or PFD, or an additional
device for boaters. The best concepts at
will be effective, affordable, and hold Hand Sewing Skills of the
the potential for wide adoption by
recreational boaters.
Ditty Bag Apprenticeship
Those interested in participating October 20 SAIL & CANVAS CLEANING
in the Challenge should submit their
The Artful Sailor presents a one-
206-842-4445
concept by 4:59pm ET, Monday, DROP-OFF POINTS
October 15, 2018. The judges will select day workshop on basic palm and Seattle - Schattauer Sails & North Sails
up to five monetary prize winners. needle canvas work with Emiliano Anacortes - Ullman Sails
$25,000 will be distributed evenly Marino and Salty Sue. The Artful Bellingham - Skookum Sails
PORTLAND - Banks Sails
among each of the Phase I monetary Sailor Whole Earth Nautical Supply,
SF BAY AREA - Hood Sailmakers & Doyle Sails
prize winners. 410 Washington St, Port Townsend, SAN DIEGO - Ullman Sails
For more information visit www.theartfulsailor.com
readyforrescuechallenge.com www.cleansails.com
www.48North.com October 2018 15Lowtide Books
Upon retiring, Patrick sea level. They forged in shallow waters, especially out of
and Heather bought a 35-foot on south for 1,500 miles sight of land, and 50+ knot winds in
sailboat on Lake Superior, via the Intra Coastal night anchorages.
sold their cars, and rented Waterway to Miami and Join the adventurous Hills as
their home all in sixty days then headed out into they satiate their sailing appetite,
to pursue an adventure to the delightfully hued not fully sated during an earlier trip
the Bahamas. They relished Bahamian waters. They with their two children to the exotic
the sights and challenges were thrilled exploring South Sea islands, atolls, then Alaska
of sailing the Great Lakes, the fascinating islands, in their 42 ft. self-built boat.
the historic Erie Canal, and meeting the friendly French Silk on Water, by Patrick
vibrant waters of New York, people and yachties, but Hill, www.patrickhillcruising.com
while dropping 600 feet to surprised with grounding
S a i l i n g a ro u n d t h e w o r l d stretch of the Russian other sublime, introspective
horizontally is difficult enough, Arctic. Flanagan survived moments as he pondered the
crossing thousands of miles of ocean being washed overboard, vast ocean and his place in it.
only to end up battling treacherous capsizing, a close encounter This is a timeless and
currents near the Capes. Hundreds of with pirates, and was treated unique story, pacily written
sailors have nevertheless managed it. to not one, but two, dislocated with a sense of humor,
Adrian Flanagan became obsessed with wrists - all of this alone, often capturing the zeal and
the idea of sailing vertically around the 1,000 miles from anyone determination required to
world - over the poles. Thirty years who could help. It wasn’t be the first to sail over the top
later he became the first sailor ever all high drama, however. - and bottom - of the world.
to do so solo. Flanagan experienced Over the Top, The First Lone
This was an epic challenge, sailing moments of awe-inspiring Yachtsman to Sail Vertically
through the perilous waters off Cape beauty - sailing alongside a pod of Around the World, by Adrian Flanagan,
Horn and across the remote, hostile whales, swimming with dolphins, and www.bloomsbury.com
50 T Y
AR
H
ANN
IVERS
Marine consignment store
Buy - Sell - Repair
Whatever you need we have it for less!
THE BEST Now in Gig Harbor!
TIME EVER. 3720 Harborview Dr. Gig Harbor, WA 98332
(253) 509-0798
Have Ullman Sails Check Your Sails For
Fall Sailing! www.secondwaveattheboatyard.com
Phone: 206.234.3737 Follow us on social media!
Seattle, WA | 2442 Westlake Ave N. Second Wave @ the Boatyard
Anacortes, WA | 700 28th Street
SailsInfo@UllmanSailsPNW.com
secondwavestore
www.pnw.ullmansails.com.com
@secondwavestore
16 October 2018 www.48North.comMaritime Trivia Lowtide
The weight of the Antarctic ice cap Seawater freezes at about 29°
deforms Earth’s shape. Fahrenheit.
by
The ice in Antarctica began forming B ryan H enry Only 2% of Antarctica is ice free.
between 35 and 50 million years ago.
Sea ice has many names and is
The Ross Ice Shelf in Antarctica is named by size: fragments less than six
the world’s largest ice shelf. It is nearly Mountains beneath Antarctica’s and a half feet across—smaller than
the size of France. ice sheets rise 16,000 feet. a grand piano—are called brash ice.
The first deep sea sounding by line The mountains that stretch the The Antarctic Ice Sheet is the
and lead was made by James Clark length of the Antarctic Peninsula are world’s thickest, averaging more than
Ross in 1840 while on an expedition an extension of the Andes in South a mile thick.
to Antarctica to locate the magnetic America, to which Antarctica originally
South Pole. was attached. It separated, or drifted Several hundred lakes lie buried
apart, about 40 million years ago, but under the ice sheet.
In 2000, the Ross Ice Shelf calved is still connected by a submarine ridge.
the largest iceberg ever seen - 185 Lakes buried under ice in Antarctica
miles wide by 25 miles long - an area Antarctic sea ice covers about 1.5 are 10 times as salty as the oceans.
of more than 4,200 square miles, or million square miles of ocean in summer,
nearly the size of Connecticut, the and more than 8 million square miles in Buried in ice below Russia’s Vostok
fourth smallest state. winter, a seven-fold increase in area. It Research Station is Lake Vostok, the
becomes as large as the United States. largest of Antarctica’s subglacier
The world’s southernmost volcano, lakes. It measures 160 miles long by
Mount Erebus, (12,280 feet) is the only Permafrost is frozen soil, not ice. 30 miles wide.
active volcano in Antarctica. It was
named by polar explorer James Clark There are at least 12 forms of sea Don Juan Pond in Antarctica is
Ross after one of his ships. It’s the ice, including cake ice, frazil ice, and thought to be the saltiest lake on Earth,
world’s only volcano named after a ship. pancake ice. with a salt content of 40.2%.
Nautical Crossword
Across 1 2 3 4 5 6 3 Inconsistent
1 The arced shape of some 7 8
5 Directional abbreviation,
decks and deckhouses opposite to long.
9 10 11
4 A in radio transmissions 6 Very brave, like many sea
9 Vessel powered by an engine 12 rescues
11 Baseball score 7 Opposite starboard
13 14 15 16 17
12 A shape of material that 8 Lifeboats
causes lift 18 10 Twofold as a prefix
13 Toward the rigging above 19 20 21 14 Shelter from the weather
the deck 15 Description for a boat that
22
16 Turning across the eye of is hauled for repairs or
the wind 23 24 25 26 painting, 3 words
18 One with a six-yr. term 27 28 17 Let go docking lines to get
19 Plot a navigational direction, underway, 2 words
29 30 31 32
3 words 20 It’s worn by seamen in
21 Circle ratio 33 34 35 military positions
23 To the side of a ship 36 37 22 Military academy students
25 Weather chart lines 23 “The ____”- film set in the
27 ‘’___ Wiedersehen’’ depths of the ocean
28 Complete 36 Help cry at sea 24 Vertical spars
29 Measurements of time 37 Flat-bottomed Chinese boats 26 It’s worn in a spa
30 Not switched on 32 Sand ___, it may block harbor
31 ___ and flow Down entrances sometimes
33 Swabby 1 Navigation equipment 34 Airline, abbr.
35 Hot or cold drink 2 Intersected as two lines Solution on page 54
www.48North.com October 2018 17Lowtide Product News
Staying in touch with the asymmetrical design for a SmartPlug Systems replaces
outside world has never been more matched look. Its plastic outdated and troublesome twist-
important, even when in a marina or interior is easily type inlets and connectors.
campground. The problem has been, modified to Double-side locking clips and
how to get all those cables connected accommodate a a sleeved inlet design provide
to the boat or RV? SmartPlug Systems telephone jack, a rock-solid connection. With
offers the BDCOAX, a new inlet that or TV/data more metal-to-metal contact,
accommodates telephone, television coax cable. Its it provides greater protection
and Internet cables. cut-out size and against the leading causes
Built from the same durable, mounting holes of power failure and fires,
marine grade 316 stainless steel match industry standards, resistance and overheating.
as SmartPlug’s shore power inlet, so installation is easy using Check: www.smartplug.com
the BDCOAX duplicates its unique common household tools.
If you ever plan to be off the identify and rescue open water with confidence, by
dock after dark, the FLIR people or pets. avoiding hazards, kayakers, small
Ocean Scout 320 will The Ocean Scout watercraft, and small boats running
give you a big edge. 320 is a rugged, without lights.
The Ocean Scout 320 handheld thermal It has an internal rechargeable
helps you see marine camera that lets you Li-ion battery that provides up to
traffic and navigational see other vessels, landmarks, five hours of continuous use. With
aids in darkness to avoid buoys, and floating debris in total its high resolution LCD display and
danger. This palm-sized monocular darkness. The Ocean Scout 320 offers FLIR’s industry-leading thermal
allows you to pick out a person in the the tools you need to see clearly, steer sensor technology, Ocean Scout 320
water in inky-black darkness at up confidently, and respond quickly in makes your time on the water safer
to 1,800 feet away. It can detect the an emergency. and more relaxing.
body heat allowing you to quickly Navigate river channels and Check: www.flir.com
H2O Audio presents FLOAT, FLOAT offers a no-compromise, boat deck, kayak, SUP, or shower.
a durable, waterproof, high- high-fidelity music experience, with The FLOAT’s integrated Bluetooth
fidelity wireless speaker designed everything needed functionality and large
to withstand rigors on the go for easy use on the buttons allow for
a n d i n t h e w a t e r. Wi t h h i g h - water or even in the easy pairing with a
definition sound and rich bass, shower. smartphone, while an
FLOAT features H2O Audio IPX7 FLOAT includes integrated microphone
waterproof technology, ensuring a pivoting, extra- allows for taking calls
the FLOAT can withstand complete strong suction cup with the smartphone safely
submersion underwater, and in mount, designed to stowed in a dry bag or compartment.
addition, it floats on the water. provide dependable mounting on a Check: https://h2oaudio.com
If for no other To counter this, Fortress feature when faced with an emergency
reason than what Marine Anchors offers the or anchorage that suddenly got too
might happen if the Stowaway Bag. With sizes crowded and swing needs to be
primary is lost, keeping to fit its full line of Fortress limited.
a secondary anchor and Guardian models, it The custom designed Stowaway
on board is a sign of provides a safe and easy Bag is built with rugged, heavy duty
proper seamanship. stowage solution. Cordura ® and has assembly and
Storage, however, can Stowed below or in a packing instructions sewn inside. It
become a problem. lazarette, the Stowaway includes a spare fluke clip, nut and
And a lot of damage Bag is easily brought bolt, and two wrenches; and holds an
can be done if it on deck. Assembling anchor and 6' of chain. 16 models are
accidentally bumps a Fortress Anchor is offered for an exacting fit.
into gelcoat. fast—an important Check: www.fortressanchors.com
18 October 2018 www.48North.comThe Artist’s View – Secrets of the Salish Sea
Sketches and story by Larry Eifert
Fall in the Salish Sea means lots of wildlife coming in with emergent vegetation to help anchor their floating
to escape winter. Many come from the far north, but also nests. Grebes have highly-complex courtship displays
from the east, where freshwater lakes and rivers freeze and are very territorial against other birds. They defend
early. The Salish Sea might be cold, but compared with their home turf with dive-bomb attacks and they work
Alberta or eastern Washington, this place is balmy. Red- as a couple to ensure their family is safe. Shortly after
necked grebes are coming in now, one of several grebes hatching the young can swim by themselves, but many
with a somewhat similar appearance. Colors are dulled spend time riding on the parent’s backs – even while
down for winter, but this place we call home is critical to diving for food. With kids grown, fall sets in quickly as
them. Look at the bird’s profile. Body low in the water, these birds once again head to saltwater for the winter.
long heavy bill that trends downward, thick neck, large Before they get here, first they stop midway to molt.
feet for swift swimming to catch fish. These birds are This process happens every fall when the grebes find
divers, and by fall, plenty of forage fish are here to carry a safe haven where they loose feathers and grow fresh
them over until they return to their summer homes. ones for the winter. Look for these interesting birds
In spring, these birds fly east and north to find lakes throughout the Salish Sea from October through March.
Larry Eifert paints and writes about the Pacific Northwest from Port Townsend. His large-scale murals can be seen
in many national parks across America, and at larryeifert.com.
www.48North.com October 2018 19Wa t c h
Arct ic
By Becca Guillote
M y eyes are still squeezed tight,
but I can feel the grey – the
heavy grey sky holding back snow,
clumsily, still pulling on PFDs,
adjusting neck warmers and un-
bunching socks. It’s not dark, but it’s
for everyone, or cleaned up the cockpit.
In the predominantly empty stretches
of water, there was also plenty of
the wispy grey fog that swirls and not daylight either. The world is grey. leeway to read a book, eat a snack, or
eludes, the dark grey sea dotted with I try to shake the sleep from my brain make some tea.
ice. Someone is shaking my arm gently, as I listen to Savai and Graeme give us That leeway evaporated as we
but I’m reticent to emerge from my the update from their watch. There’s entered the fields of ice east of Barrow.
sleepy warmth. My arm shakes again, lots of ice, it’s very foggy, the wind Being on watch in the arctic literally
and I squint my eyes open at the little has calmed, and we need to trend our means watching. Not glancing up
girl standing by my bed, bundled in so course to the south if the ice allows. and around between the pages of a
many layers she looks like a mummy. With the information disseminated, good book to check on traffic and
“You’re up” she whispers, her muffled they head downstairs, clumsily pushing wind speed; but staring ahead without
words barely escaping the layers of past our awkward marshmallow suits respite for three hours, eyes trained
fleecy fabric swaddled around her. in the closed-in cockpit to get down the forward. Sometimes looking for
I nod as I groan and stretch, and she companionway. And then it’s just us chunks of ice floating in the mostly
disappears around the corner. I crawl and the ice and the heavy cold sky. open choppy sea, other times seeking
out of my warm nest and start to add Before we rounded Point Barrow, narrow pathways of water that emerge
clothes in the dimness. A few layers of our two-person three-hour watch and vanish among a quagmire of ice.
fleece, a puffy, two pairs of socks, gloves schedule was straightforward and That is the type of watch we are
inside mittens, a big coat, a second hat comfortable. Those on watch were beginning now – the watching kind. I
for good measure. The form of Janna, expected to keep a look out for traffic head to the bow with binoculars and a
veiled under an impossibly puffy and debris, make sail changes or course compass. My job on the bow is to watch
and oversized outfit, emerges from modifications, prepare meals for the for ice in our immediate path and to
the bow, and I emit a sleepy chuckle. crew, and also accomplish small tasks try to untangle the deceptive mazes of
I must look just as marshmallow-y, to keep the boat tidy. With two people water amid the bands of ice ahead. I
because she chuckles back. on watch together, one could pay communicate with Janna, now standing
It’s 4am and the beginning of our attention to the course while the other attentively behind the wheel, with
watch. We clamor into the cockpit organized a locker, cooked breakfast exaggerated hand signals, indicating to
20 October 2018 www.48North.comher which direction to steer, how much
and – sometimes most importantly –
“Being on watch in against the biting wind and straining to
see the next chunk of ice in our path,
how quickly. The binoculars help me
distinguish grey ice from grey water
the arctic literally weary from the exertion.
With the intensity of these
and the compass helps me keep my means watching.” watching watches, the rest of the crew
bearings in this fog-enshrouded world picks up the slack in their downtime.
so I don’t send DogBark! in circles with My role now is to watch our course and After handing over the wheel to John
my hand signals. depth on the chart, keeping us headed and Talia and peeling off the many
I stand at the bow, one arm draped in the right direction and in deep constraining layers of down and
around the furled-in jib, the other enough water, and to react to Janna’s fleece, I scramble up some eggs and
motioning almost constantly for course waving hands with quick turns of the toast for the crew that is awake while
changes. Minutes evaporate in the wheel, sometimes threading between Janna makes hot tea and coffee for
raw beauty of the sculptures gliding intimidating ice formations with John and Talia; then we fill in the log
by. They seem to pulse with vivacious inches to spare, other times zigging book and check the bilges for water
shades of blue and white, these elegant and zagging and making U-turns in intrusion. And then I climb back into
statues of power and evanescence that cul-de-sacs of water bounded by ice. bed to snuggle under the deep thick
morph and transform as we slip past. The rest of our watch slips by on comforter.
They are endlessly mesmerizing. The the long low sheets of ice expanding A shiver of delight and warmth
time flies by. endlessly to our starboard. The runs through me. I love the intensity
After an hour and a half, I wobble intermittent rumble of icebergs of these watches, the vivacity of the
back to the cockpit on stiff legs and splitting and rolling nearby melds with cold wind across my face, the strained
we switch places for the second half the growling drone of the diesel engine staring and quick maneuvering,
of our watch. Now behind the wheel, under my feet. The dark damp grey of the beauty and intricacy of the ice
I am unnerved by the hindered view pre-dawn has stretched into the softer sculptures around us, almost as much
of the ice ahead, accustomed to the grey of a foggy day, unfolding and as I love the feeling of crawling back
sweeping landscape I could see from spreading in every direction. By the under the comforter and snuggling in
the bow. I have to trust Janna entirely, end of our watch, the cold has reached for a warm cozy nap at the end of it.
as she trusted me, to guide DogBark! through my toes and fingers, creeping Follow Becca and John’s journey at
through the ice with her hand signals. into my core. My eyes water, fighting www.patreon.com/johnandbecca
Have Plans to Go Cruising?
Discover what West Coast Sailors have long known…
THE CRUISER’S CHANDLERY
Outfit your Bluewater Adventure at Downwind Marine!
Use our Online Catalog for all the Gear you Need!
Use our Online Cruising Guide to assist in planning your gear and itinerary.
Call or email us for expert help when you need it.
If heading south this fall, visit our store and attend our fall cruising events.
Email: info@downwindmarine.com
VISIT US IN SAN DIEGO …
2804 Cañon Street OR VISIT OUR WEBSITE! 2636 Shelter Island Drive
San Diego
San Diego (619) 223-7159
(619) 225-9411 We are a great family of marine stores with even more products, (800) 336-SDMX
(800) 532-3831 services and resources to meet all your boating needs. Mexico 001-800-336-7369
www.downwindmarine.com
www.downwindmarine .com
www.48North.com October 2018 21“Don’t you get the endless possibility
tired of doing the for new experiences,
same thing every even after 30 years of
summer?” our non-
cruising friends
A Voyage of the Heart: summer meanderings
between Seattle and
ask as we prepare Loss, Exploration, and Healing Prince Rupert.
our Discovery 42 Clam Bay,
sailboat, Beija Flor, by Irene Panke Hopkins between Thetis and
for another summer Kuper Islands, faces
trip. In truth, I ask east and is fairly
myself the same well protected from
question when my both north and south
travel fantasies drift winds. I was eyeing
towards Europe, Penelakut Spit on
South America, and the south end of the
places I have never bay as a walking
been and long to possibility, but it is
experience. But by the time our anchor We revisited many of the usual First Nations territory so that was out.
is set and the sunset’s pink and orange spots. In San Juan Island’s Friday We dropped anchor in 35 feet of water
light has faded to gray, those thoughts Harbor, after a long day chugging up with good holding ground. As I tidied
have disappeared. The moon rising in a the strait, we joined the throngs of lines and took in the scenery, another
significantly darker sky than the one I tourists, grabbed a delicious meal at boat passed close enough for a woman
left behind and the gentle movement of the Cask and Schooner, and picked up to ask if I had been in the water yet. “Is
our boat at anchor seals the deal. We are a few forgotten items at well-stocked it warm enough?” I asked, hopefully.
exactly where we are supposed to be. King’s Market. “Supposed to be!” she answered.
Our trip this summer had as much Next stop: Reid Harbor on Stuart Our point and shoot digital
to do with our love for the coast as Island, where there’s room for plenty of thermometer revealed that, at least
my need to heal from events of the boats without feeling crowded. We had on the surface, I was looking at 72
past year. My mother’s death in late a great walk to stretch the old legs - the degrees. I wasted no time getting into
March was at the top of that list. When popular hike to Turn Point Lighthouse my bathing suit and lowering myself
we slipped the lines off the cleats in takes walkers through sun dappled down the stern ladder. After an initial
late July and headed north into Puget woods, beside expansive, golden gasp (72° is warm by Pacific Northwest
Sound, I knew where we were going pastures, past a one-room schoolhouse standards, but still not exactly bathtub
and I knew what to expect, but I did and the wooden, honor-system temp), I swam a couple of laps around
not know that something we have done souvenir chests, before spilling onto the the boat. Luxuriating in the clean
forever could assuage the debilitating grounds of the historic lighthouse and salt water, I floated on my back and
grief I was experiencing. a sweeping view of Haro Strait. For me, looked up at the cloudless, blue sky.
it’s more than just Sitting on the stern afterwards, warm
a walk through sun evaporating the droplets of water
the woods. It’s a on my skin, I felt a shift beginning.
portal to places Tingling from the cool water and
and a state of feasting on the combined smells of
mind we can pine and salt energized me. My senses,
only get to on the which had been dulled for months,
water. were waking up.
Our decision The next day we kayaked through
not to venture the lovely, shallow cut to Telegraph
too far north Harbor. We went ashore for coffee at
this summer the marina gift shop and café. Fully
allowed us to blooming flora onshore was at eye
explore some level and in sharp focus. I tuned into
new anchorages the sound of my paddle entering the
in Canada’s Gulf water and pushing it behind me. The
Islands. One of return trip against the current gave us
the marvels of this a moderate workout. Back on the boat,
Irene and her mother in the galley of the “Beija Flor.” cruising area is I swam again. Twice!
22 October 2018 www.48North.comYou can also read
