SSI Category & Consumer Insights - Speaking Hair Language ...

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SSI Category & Consumer Insights - Speaking Hair Language ...
Understanding how she communicates and responds
                                              to messages about haircare, and how well she feels the
                                                            industry represents her

                               “Although the industry is improving, there are still brands that under represent
                               black hair and beauty. There are many standards of beauty not just one”

                                              SSI Category & Consumer Insights -
                                                        January 2021
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .                                                1
SSI Category & Consumer Insights - Speaking Hair Language ...
Table of Contents

        p.3   • Executive Summary                  Summary & Purpose of Study
       p.6    • Methodology                        SSI Qualitative Research
       p.7    • What She Says                      Exploring the language that consumers prefer
                                                   when describing their hair
       p.30   • Representation                     How she feel about herself and the way
                                                   she is represented in the beauty industry
      p.47    • Communication                      How well are retailers and brands
                                                   communicating with consumers?
      p.80    • Respondent Profiles                Demographics

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
SSI Category & Consumer Insights - Speaking Hair Language ...
Executive summary
                                                                How does she talk about her hair?

                                                                                                                                                              Only

                   86%                                                                                                                                 27%
                                                                                                                                                       Use the Andre Walker
               Like or love their natural hair                                                                                                   classification system (e.g. 4b /4c
                            type                                                                                                                   etc) to refer to her hair type

      African American women are mostly very positive about their hair. Most said that they either love their natural hair type, or like it, even if caring for it can be challenging at
      times.
      Consumers commonly describe their hair type using words like kinky, curly, coily, wavy, thick, coarse and natural. Around three quarters of African American women are
      familiar with the Andre Walker number/letter classification system (e.g. 4A / 4B / 4C) however it is less widely used by consumers than may be have been thought; only 27%
      actually use this classification to describe their hair type and a similar proportion said that they don’t understand, or are not familiar with the classification at all. The
      classification is most frequently used by women with 4C hair.
      Consumers were asked about a number of popular and/or potentially contentious terms often used in relation to African American haircare. Kinky is one such term –
      although 28% use this term, particularly to describe their own hair type, 12% cringe when they hear the word, due to negative connotations of hair that is undesirable. This
      term is more acceptable with younger consumers than older women.
      Other terms consumers don’t like hearing include “good hair” and “bad hair”, “nappy”, and “exotic”. Some of these terms are used within the Black community, but even if
      accepted amongst the community, would be frowned upon if used by brands or commercial entities.
      Terms commonly used in hashtags, including Black Girl Magic, Black Girl Hair, and Black Lives Matter also do not hold universal appeal. While not necessarily offensive, some
      consumers cringe at these terms due to overuse, misuse, and a sense that they are unnecessary.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .                                                                                                          3
SSI Category & Consumer Insights - Speaking Hair Language ...
Executive summary
                                            How does she relate to the hair and beauty industry?

                   25%                                         51%                                          35%                                         18%
                                                          Feel that some looks or styles                 Are often or occasionally                   Have considered cancelling
              Do not feel well represented by
                                                         are more associated with lighter                offended or turned off by                        haircare brands
               the hair and beauty industry
                                                                  or darker skin                      communication from hair brands

      One quarter of African American women do not feel that they are well represented by the hair and beauty industry. This view is related to a lack of products that address
      their needs, as well as a lack of diversity in the industry. Much of the feedback from consumers relating to diversity were not necessarily suggesting that Black women are
      not represented, but that the industry only represents a narrow view of African American women, and not the full spectrum of skin tones, hair types, and combinations of
      the two.
      Related to this, half of surveyed women feel that certain looks or hairstyles are more associated with either lighter or darker skin tones. Examples include perceptions that
      lighter skinned women have looser hair textures and darker skinned women have coarser hair, and that certain hairstyles are usually portrayed in combination with
      particular skin tones. This is often rooted in colorism both from within and outside of the black community, and promotes the notion of lighter skin as more desirable than
      dark skin tones.
      Consumers are offended or turned off from brands when communication lacks diversity. This is not necessarily an overt omission of people of color, it can be as simple as
      dismissing a product or brand because the models featured in their advertising are all a similar shade, or have similar hair types. Consumers are also offended or turned off
      from brand communication with misleading or unbelievable claims, cliches, anything that implies that hair needs to tamed or that their hair is not ideal, and shallow
      attempts by non-Black owned brands to cash in on Black dollars.
      Almost one-in-five said that they have cancelled or considered cancelling haircare brands. They do this if products are not meeting their needs but also if a brand no longer
      aligns with their personal ethics.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .                                                                                                            4
SSI Category & Consumer Insights - Speaking Hair Language ...
Executive summary
                                        How does she decide whether or not a product is for her?

               Images                                                Ingredients                                                     Key words

      When evaluating product packaging, marketing, or in-store mechanizing, one of the first things African American consumers pay attention to is the image. They very quickly
      make a decision about whether or not a product is suitable for their hair based on whether or not the person pictured has the same hair type as them. If the woman
      pictured has tighter or looser curls/coils, or straight hair (for naturals, vice versa for relaxed women), many will instantly conclude that the product won’t be suitable for
      them.
      They seem to take imagery very literally, so even if looking at brand, not product, advertising, the hair type of any model shown will influence perceptions of the type of hair
      the brand is suited for. For this reason it is wise where possible to include more than one model showcasing different , but similar hair types to appeal to a broader
      consumer base.
      African American consumers make judgements on product or brand suitability based on ingredients; they look for natural and organic ingredients, and are also attracted by
      clear messaging about what is NOT included, for example no alcohol, sulfates, or parabens.
      In the absence of an image, or when investigating further beyond the initial perception created by an image, consumers look for keywords describing their hair type or
      texture. They also look for “moisturizing’ in most haircare products, natural or organic, and also keywords relating to particular hair concerns they have, for example repair,
      or growth.
      Women with natural hair look for anything relating to relaxer, perm, straightening, etc to rule out products. Less obvious keywords consumers may use to judge a product or
      brand as unsuitable include “for all hair types”, products that claim to be for oily or thin hair, and products that mention “volume”.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .                                                                                                        5
SSI Category & Consumer Insights - Speaking Hair Language ...
SSI Consumer Research Methodology
        • SSI conducted consumer research with 600
          African American women to gain insight into:
             • How she talks about her hair
             • Terms she uses and terms that make her
               cringe
             • How well she feels the beauty industry
               represents herself and other women of color
             • How she responds to brand communication,
               including how she makes decisions about
               product suitability
        • SSI Consumer Research is supported, enhanced and
          complemented by quantitative Retail Chains syndicated
          results.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
SSI Category & Consumer Insights - Speaking Hair Language ...
How does she talk about her
       hair?

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .   7
SSI Category & Consumer Insights - Speaking Hair Language ...
The Andre Walker hair typing system
                Is one of the most widely used hair type classification systems. It was developed in
                  the 90’s by stylist Andre Walker to market his haircare products and has become
                                            widely adopted by the industry

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .                                            8
SSI Category & Consumer Insights - Speaking Hair Language ...
Using the Andre Walker classification system

           Using an image as
                 a guide,
            respondents self-
           classified their hair

                 Around one quarter
          identified their hair as                        4C
                                                                                                                                                                                24%

                                                                                                                                      17%                           17%
                                                                                                                                                                          16%

                                                                     7%
                         5%                    4%                                          2%                    5%                                          4%

                          1                    2A                    2B                    2C                    3A                    3B                     3C    4A    4B        4C
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .                                                                                                                     9
      Using the image as a guide, which of the following best describes your NATURAL hair texture (i.e. as it naturally grows from your head)? Base Total (n=600)
SSI Category & Consumer Insights - Speaking Hair Language ...
How familiar are African American women with the
                                                   Andre Walker hair classification system?

                                                                                                                      Although most African American women are familiar
                                                                                                                           with the system, only just over one quarter
                             I use this classification                    I am not familiar with, or                      (27%) typically describe their hair using that
                            when describing my hair
                                  type/texture
                                                                           do not understand, this                                        classification.
                                                                             classification system
                                       27%                                            26%
                                                                                                                       One quarter of surveyed African American women
                                                                                                                          are not familiar with, or do not understand the
                                                                                                                       classification, which means brands should cautious
                                                                                                                           about when communicating with consumers.

                                                      I am familiar with the
                                                    classifications, but don't
                                                        usually use it when
                                                        describing my hair
                                                           type/texture
                                                                47%

. . . .How .     . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
           familiar are you with the letter/number classification system (eg 1 / 2/ 3A / 3B / 3C / 4A / 4B / 4C) for describing hair texture? Total sample (n=600)
                                                                                                                                                                     10
Women withBy 4C hair
                   hair are
                         typesignificantly
                                 – who uses / doesn’t use?
   more likely to use this classification
                By age
    compared to all other hair types
                                         By natural vs relaxed.
   40% of those who identified their hair as 4C said that they use this term for their hair. In contrast,
   only 19% of those who identified their hair as 4A/B (using the provided image as a guide) said
   that they use this terminology, while one third of those women said they are unfamiliar with, or do
   not understand the classification

                                  23%                                  19%
   Use this classification                          26%
   to describe my hair                                                                     40%

                                                                       49%
   Familiar, but don't            50%
   use it to describe my                            48%
   hair
                                                                                           42%

   Not familiar / don't
   understand it                                                       32%
                                  27%               26%
                                                                                           18%

                             1 / 2A / 2B / 2C   3A / 3B / 3C          4A / 4B               4C
       . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
How familiar are you with the letter/number classification system (eg 1 / 2/ 3A / 3B / 3C / 4A / 4B / 4C) for describing hair texture? Total sample (n=600)
                                                                                                                                                              11
Familiarity and usage of the Andre Walker classification system
                                               also varies significantly based on age, and hair state
                                                                           By age                                                                                          By hair state
                                         Women aged over 45 are less likely to be familiar with the                                             There is no difference in familiarity / understanding of the
                                                            classification                                                                      classification between women with natural and chemically
                                                                                                                                              altered hair textures, however, women with chemically altered
                                                                                                                                                 texture are less likely to use the classification to describe
                                                                                                                                                                           their hair.

                                                                                                 22%                     21%                                                                19%
                  Use this                     31%                      31%                                                                                          29%
                  classification to
                  describe my hair

                                                                                                                         31%

                  Familiar, but                                                                  48%                                                                                        55%
                  don't use it to                                                                                                                                    44%
                  describe my hair             53%                      50%

                  Not familiar /                                                                                         48%
                  don't understand
                                                                                                 30%
                  it                                                                                                                                                 27%                    26%
                                               16%                      18%

                                              18-29                    30-44                    45-59                     60+                            Natural hair texture     Chemically altered texture
. . . .How .     . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
           familiar are you with the letter/number classification system (eg 1 / 2/ 3A / 3B / 3C / 4A / 4B / 4C) for describing hair texture? Total sample (n=600)
                                                                                                                                                                                                     12
What other terms does she use to describe her
                                hair type or texture?

. . . .What.other.terms.do you.usually
                                  . use.when.describing
                                                 . .your hair
                                                         . TYPE
                                                              . or .    . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
                                                                   TEXTURE? Total sample (n=600)
                                                                                                      13
What terms relating to
                                  hair/beauty/ethnicity does she use?
                                                                 Kinky                                         28%

                                                            Good hair                              18%

                                                             Textured                              18%

                                                                Nappy                            17%

                                                      Black Girl Magic                       16%

                                                   Black Lives Matter                      14%

                                                        Black Girl Hair               12%

                                                      Black Excellence               11%

                                                               Grease               11%

                                                                Ethnic              10%

                                          Crown (i.e. to describe hair)         9%

                                                              Bad hair         8%

                                                                Urban     5%

            Exotic (i.e. when describing a woman's features or beauty)    5%

                                                   None of the above                                             29%

. . . Which
       . of.these.terms.do you.use.in your.everyday
                                              . life,
                                                    . on.social.media,.or in.relation
                                                                                  . to.hair and
                                                                                             . beauty?
                                                                                                 . .         . . . . . . . . .
                                                                                                       Total sample (n=600)
                                                                                                                                 14
What terms make her cringe?
                                                                     Nappy                                   45%

                                                                   Bad hair                          31%

                                                                 Good hair                     20%

                                                                      Kinky              12%

                 Exotic (i.e. when describing a woman's features or beauty)          10%

                                                             Black Girl Hair        9%

                                                           Black Girl Magic         8%

                                                        Black Lives Matter          8%

                                                                    Grease          8%

                                                                     Urban      7%

                                                                     Ethnic    6%

                                                           Black Excellence    4%

                                                                  Textured     3%

                                               Crown (i.e. to describe hair)   3%

                                                                Any others     2%

                                                        None of the above            11%
. . . .Do any.of these
                  . words
                       . or.terms.make.you.cringe.when.you hear
                                                           . them
                                                                . used
                                                                   . in relation
                                                                        . .to race
                                                                                 . or .hair? .Total .    . . . . . . . .
                                                                                                    sample (n=600)
                                                                                                                           15
“KINKY”
                                                     I use the term                                                                                          It makes me cringe
                                   Total                                             By age                                                      Total                                     By age

                                                                       18-29                          35%                                                                        18-29    7%
                                                                                                                                                     12%
                                           28%                         30-44                         34%                                                                         30-44    10%

                                                                       45-59               22%                                                                                   45-59     12%

                                                                         60+               22%                                                                                     60+              25%

           Demographic differences:                                                                                           Demographic differences:

               •    Used more by women aged under 45                                                                               •    Most likely to offend older women (60+).
               •    More commonly used by women with 4A/B (35%) or 4C (37%) hair

           How is it used?                                                                                                    Why is it offensive?

           •       To describe tightly coiled hair texture.                                                                    •       Not necessarily offensive when used to describe texture (i.e. 4C hair), but
           •       Can also refer to hair that is tangled, thick, coarse, hard to manage or difficult                                  some women don’t like it because of the negative connotations of being
                   to comb.                                                                                                            difficult or undesirable.
           •       Sometimes described as being another word for nappy.                                                        •       Can be used an insult.

. . . Which
       . of.these.terms.do you. use.in your.everyday
                                               . .   life, on.
                                                             social.   .or in.relation
                                                                    media,        . to.hair and
                                                                                             . beauty?
                                                                                                 . .         . .(n=600)
                                                                                                       Total sample . . . . . . .                                                                          16
           Do any of these words or terms make you cringe when you hear them used in relation to race or hair? Total sample (n=600)
“NAPPY”
                                                     I use the term                                                                                         It makes me cringe
                                   Total                                             By age                                                      Total                                  By age

                                                                       18-29               21%                                                                                 18-29                     44%
                                        17%
                                                                       30-44               22%                                                                                 30-44                         49%
                                                                                                                                                         45%
                                                                       45-59         13%                                                                                       45-59                     44%

                                                                         60+       9%                                                                                            60+                   40%

           Demographic differences:                                                                                           Demographic differences:

               •    Used more by women aged under 45                                                                               •    No significant difference by age,.
               •    More commonly used by women with 4C hair (24%)                                                                 •    More likely to be offensive to women with 4A/B (52%) or 4C (47%),
               •    Used less in the North East (7%).                                                                                   compared to those with type 1 or 2 hair (34%)

           How is it used?                                                                                                    Why is it offensive?

           •       To describe hair that is unruly, “wooly”, knotty, difficult to manage or hard to                            •       Racist, disrespectful, degrading, rude, linked to slavery.
                   comb.                                                                                                       •       Old and out-dated and very negative connotations
           •       Some women use it to describe their own hair and are not offended by the                                    •       Can be an insult to imply a person’s hair is not done, or unclean.
                   term.                                                                                                       •       Also implies coarser hair textures are bad or undesirable.
           •       Sometimes used interchangeably with nappy                                                                   •       Especially unacceptable if used by white or non-AA people, but many do not
                                                                                                                                       like hearing it used by other African Americans either, even if they are
                                                                                                                                       describing their own hair.
. . . Which
       . of.these.terms.do you. use.in your.everyday
                                               . .   life, on.
                                                             social.   .or in.relation
                                                                    media,        . to.hair and
                                                                                             . beauty?
                                                                                                 . .         . .(n=600)
                                                                                                       Total sample . . . . . . .                                                                             17
           Do any of these words or terms make you cringe when you hear them used in relation to race or hair? Total sample (n=600)
“GOOD HAIR”
                                                     I use the term                                                                                          It makes me cringe
                                   Total                                             By age                                                       Total                                    By age

                                                                       18-29               22%                                                                                   18-29                 33%
                                         18%                                                                                                           20%
                                                                       30-44             19%                                                                                     30-44         17%

                                                                       45-59           17%                                                                                       45-59          18%

                                                                         60+            17%                                                                                        60+        16%

           Demographic differences:                                                                                           Demographic differences:

               •    No significant difference by age                                                                               •    More likely to offend young women aged 18-29.
               •    More likely to be used by women with type 1 or 2 hair (24%) and least likely                                   •    More likely to offend women with natural (23%) vs chemically altered (12%
                    to be used by women with 4C hair (12%).                                                                             texture).

           How is it used?                                                                                                    Why is it offensive?
           •       To describe African American hair that is curly, soft, easy to manage (not coarse or
                   tightly coiled).                                                                                            •       Implies that coarser natural textures are bad or undesirable.
           •       Usually used to refer to a person’s natural hair texture but can also be used to                            •       Centers Eurocentric beauty standards.
                   describe a good hair day – when hair looks particularly good or they are happy                              •       Divisive
                   with how it is styled.                                                                                      •       All (healthy) hair is good hair.
           •       Sometimes to describe hair that has been straightened or texture softened
           •       Healthy, silky, shiny.
           •       Implication that you are lucky if you were born with “good hair”.
. . . Which
       . of.these.terms.do you. use.in your.everyday
                                               . .   life, on.
                                                             social.   .or in.relation
                                                                    media,        . to.hair and
                                                                                             . beauty?
                                                                                                 . .         . .(n=600)
                                                                                                       Total sample . . . . . . .                                                                       18
           Do any of these words or terms make you cringe when you hear them used in relation to race or hair? Total sample (n=600)
“BAD HAIR”
                                                     I use the term                                                                                         It makes me cringe
                                   Total                                             By age                                                      Total                                   By age

                                      8%                                 18-29            11%                                                                                  18-29                     36%

                                                                         30-44          8%                                                               31%                   30-44                    34%

                                                                         45-59      5%                                                                                         45-59              26%

                                                                           60+      6%                                                                                           60+                 31%

           Demographic differences:                                                                                           Demographic differences:

               •    No significant difference by age                                                                               •    No significant difference by age
               •    More likely to be used in the West (14%), least likely to be used in the North                                 •    Proportion who says it makes them cringe increases with household income
                    East (4%)                                                                                                           (47% of those with HH income $75+)

           How is it used?                                                                                                    Why is it offensive?

           •       Hair that is coarse, difficult to manage, unruly.                                                           •       There is no such thing as bad hair.
           •       Similar to nappy or kinky                                                                                   •       By whose standards?
           •       Sometimes used to describe a bad hair day rather than a bad hair type.                                      •       Comes from ignorance and misconception.
                                                                                                                               •       Does not acknowledge the beauty and diversity of African American hair.

. . . Which
       . of.these.terms.do you. use.in your.everyday
                                               . .   life, on.
                                                             social.   .or in.relation
                                                                    media,        . to.hair and
                                                                                             . beauty?
                                                                                                 . .         . .(n=600)
                                                                                                       Total sample . . . . . . .                                                                        19
           Do any of these words or terms make you cringe when you hear them used in relation to race or hair? Total sample (n=600)
“TEXTURED”
                                                     I use the term                                                                                            It makes me cringe
                                   Total                                             By age                                                       Total                                        By age

                                                                         18-29                21%                                                                                     18-29     5%
                                         18%                                                                                                              3%
                                                                         30-44               19%                                                                                      30-44    4%

                                                                         45-59              18%                                                                                       45-59   3%

                                                                            60+        13%                                                                                              60+    0%

           Demographic differences:                                                                                           Demographic differences:

               •    No significant difference by age                                                                               •    No significant difference by age or other demographic characteristics.
               •    More likely to be used in the West (29%), and Midwest (24%).
               •    More commonly used by women with household income over $75k (26%)
                    particularly compared to
“EXOTIC”
                                                                                                        (to describe features or beauty)
                                                     I use the term                                                                                         It makes me cringe
                                   Total                                             By age                                                      Total                                   By age

                                           5%
                                                                         18-29            7%                                                         10%                         18-29                     27%

                                                                         30-44          6%                                                                                       30-44        11%

                                                                         45-59       3%                                                                                          45-59   5%

                                                                            60+      5%                                                                                            60+   2%

           Demographic differences:                                                                                           Demographic differences:

               •    No significant differences in usage based on age or other demographics                                         •    Most likely to offend 18-29 year olds.
                                                                                                                                   •    More likely to turn off women with 4A/B (13%) or 4C (12%) hair compared to
                                                                                                                                        those with type 1 or 2 hair (4%).
                                                                                                                                   •    More likely to be offensive to women in the $25-50k HH income bracket (14%).

           How is it used?                                                                                                    Why is it offensive?

           •       To describe someone with unusual beauty or an uncommon look.                                                •       Racist and fetishizing
           •       Usually referring to mixed race or heritage.                                                                •       Dehumanizing – makes them sound like a fruit, animal, or from another planet.
           •       Typically not African American, but some similar features – may be part African                             •       Reductive and divisive – reinforces normative beauty standards and makes
                   American and possibly part Asian or another ethnicity.                                                              everything else “other”.
           •       An example would be “Brown skin with light brown, blue, or green eyes.
                   Perhaps almond-shaped eyes”

. . . Which
       . of.these.terms.do you. use.in your.everyday
                                               . .   life, on.
                                                             social.   .or in.relation
                                                                    media,        . to.hair and
                                                                                             . beauty?
                                                                                                 . .         . .(n=600)
                                                                                                       Total sample . . . . . . .                                                                        21
           Do any of these words or terms make you cringe when you hear them used in relation to race or hair? Total sample (n=600)
“BLACK GIRL MAGIC”
                                                     I use the term                                                                                        It makes me cringe
                                   Total                                             By age                                                     Total                                   By age

                                        16%
                                                                         18-29                   25%                                                 8%                         18-29           16%

                                                                         30-44                  23%                                                                             30-44     10%

                                                                         45-59        9%                                                                                        45-59   5%

                                                                            60+ 2%                                                                                                60+ 3%

           Demographic differences:                                                                                           Demographic differences:

               •    More likely to be used by women aged under 45                                                                  •    Most likely to offend or turn off women aged 18-29.
               •    More commonly used by women in the $25-50k bracket (20%), particularly
                    compared to those with lower household income (12%).

           How is it used?                                                                                                    Why is it offensive?

           •       Conveys a sense of cultural power and pride.                                                                •       We are not magic – just human
           •       Black women are amazing, beautiful, capable and inspirational                                               •       Suggests witchcraft or voodoo
           •       Signifies rising up and holding head high in the face of adversity or                                       •       The term is overrated / over used / cheesy
                   mistreatment.                                                                                               •       Women – not girls.
           •       Acceptance and love of her natural hair type, skin tone, and features.                                      •       No need to elevate Black women over Black men, or women from other
                                                                                                                                       ethnicities.

. . . Which
       . of.these.terms.do you. use.in your.everyday
                                               . .   life, on.
                                                             social.   .or in.relation
                                                                    media,        . to.hair and
                                                                                             . beauty?
                                                                                                 . .         . .(n=600)
                                                                                                       Total sample . . . . . . .                                                                     22
           Do any of these words or terms make you cringe when you hear them used in relation to race or hair? Total sample (n=600)
“BLACK LIVES MATTER”
                                                     I use the term                                                                                        It makes me cringe
                                   Total                                             By age                                                      Total                                  By age

                                       14%                               18-29                  23%                                                  8%                        18-29      9%

                                                                         30-44              19%                                                                                30-44    8%

                                                                         45-59       8%                                                                                        45-59    8%

                                                                            60+       6%                                                                                         60+     7%

           Demographic differences:                                                                                           Demographic differences:

               •    More likely to be used by women aged under 45                                                                  •    No significant difference based on age.
                                                                                                                                   •    More likely to turn off women in the lowest income bracket (
“BLACK GIRL HAIR”
                                                     I use the term                                                                                         It makes me cringe
                                   Total                                             By age                                                      Total                                    By age

                                       12%                               18-29                 22%                                                   9%                          18-29     12%

                                                                         30-44         13%                                                                                       30-44     9%

                                                                         45-59       8%                                                                                          45-59     6%

                                                                            60+      7%                                                                                            60+     9%

           Demographic differences:                                                                                           Demographic differences:

               •    More likely to be used by women aged 18-29.                                                                    •    No significant difference based on age.
                                                                                                                                   •    More likely to offend women with 4A/B hair (12%) than 4C hair (6%).

           How is it used?                                                                                                    Why is it offensive?

           •       To refer to afro-centric hair textures.                                                                     •       Ignorant and stereotypical term with no real meaning – Black women have
           •       Acknowledges that Black hair is different to other hair types and has it’s own                                      many different hair types, and some other races also have thick or coarse hair
                   challenges and requirements.                                                                                        textures usually associated with “Black girl hair”.

. . . Which
       . of.these.terms.do you. use.in your.everyday
                                               . .   life, on.
                                                             social.   .or in.relation
                                                                    media,        . to.hair and
                                                                                             . beauty?
                                                                                                 . .         . .(n=600)
                                                                                                       Total sample . . . . . . .                                                                          24
           Do any of these words or terms make you cringe when you hear them used in relation to race or hair? Total sample (n=600)
“BLACK EXCELLENCE”
                                                     I use the term                                                                                        It makes me cringe
                                   Total                                             By age                                                      Total                                  By age

                                                                         18-29
                                      11%                                                      22%                                                                              18-29     6%
                                                                                                                                                         4%
                                                                         30-44         13%                                                                                      30-44   3%

                                                                         45-59       5%                                                                                         45-59    5%

                                                                            60+      7%                                                                                           60+   2%

           Demographic differences:                                                                                           Demographic differences:

               •    Most likely to be used by women aged 18-29.                                                                    •    No significant difference based on age.
               •    Most likely to be used by women with 4C hair (16%), particularly compared to                                   •    More likely make women with chemically altered hair texture cringe (7%),
                    type 1 or 2 hair (7%).                                                                                              compared to natural (3%).
               •    Most commonly used by women in the $50-75k HH income bracket (18%),
                    particularly compared to $75k+ (6%).
           How is it used?                                                                                                    Why is it offensive?

           •       Celebrates the successes of Black people doing great things.                                                •       Divisive and unnecessary
           •       Reinforces positive representation of the Black community and encourages
                   working hard and striving for personal best.

. . . Which
       . of.these.terms.do you. use.in your.everyday
                                               . .   life, on.
                                                             social.   .or in.relation
                                                                    media,        . to.hair and
                                                                                             . beauty?
                                                                                                 . .         . .(n=600)
                                                                                                       Total sample . . . . . . .                                                                       25
           Do any of these words or terms make you cringe when you hear them used in relation to race or hair? Total sample (n=600)
“GREASE”
                                                     I use the term                                                                                         It makes me cringe
                                   Total                                             By age                                                      Total                                   By age

                                      11%                                18-29       11%                                                             8%                          18-29     9%

                                                                         30-44         13%                                                                                       30-44    10%

                                                                         45-59       9%                                                                                          45-59    6%

                                                                            60+      8%                                                                                            60+    6%

           Demographic differences:                                                                                           Demographic differences:

               •    No significant difference by age.                                                                              •    No significant difference based on age or other demographic characteristics.
               •    Usage is highest in the lowest income bracket ($25k, 14%), and decreases
                    with affluence ($75K+, 5%).

           How is it used?                                                                                                    Why is it offensive?

           •       To describe a thick, heavy hair product or ointment, often used on the scalp or                             •       Old fashioned product and term.
                   to slick down hair.                                                                                         •       Sounds unappealing and not something you would want in your hair.
           •       Hair moisturizer.                                                                                           •       There are now better products on the market which serve the same purpose
                                                                                                                                       grease used to serve.
                                                                                                                               •       Some use the term “moisturizer” now instead for similar products (eg
                                                                                                                                       ointments).

. . . Which
       . of.these.terms.do you. use.in your.everyday
                                               . .   life, on.
                                                             social.   .or in.relation
                                                                    media,        . to.hair and
                                                                                             . beauty?
                                                                                                 . .         . .(n=600)
                                                                                                       Total sample . . . . . . .                                                                         26
           Do any of these words or terms make you cringe when you hear them used in relation to race or hair? Total sample (n=600)
“ETHNIC”
                                                     I use the term                                                                                         It makes me cringe
                                   Total                                             By age                                                      Total                                    By age

                                      10%                                18-29       2%                                                             6%                            18-29        14%

                                                                         30-44         14%                                                                                        30-44    6%

                                                                         45-59       10%                                                                                          45-59   3%

                                                                            60+      12%                                                                                            60+   3%

           Demographic differences:                                                                                           Demographic differences:

               •    Rarely used by 18-29 year olds.                                                                                •    Most likely to turn off 18-29 year olds.
               •    More likely to be used by women with natural (12%)than chemically altered                                      •    Does not bother women in the Midwest (2%).
                    (5%) texture., and highest amongst women with 4A/B hair (15%).
               •    Usage increases with affluence; $17% in the $75k+ bracket, 8% for
“CROWN”
                                                                                                                  (to describe hair)
                                                     I use the term                                                                                          It makes me cringe
                                   Total                                             By age                                                       Total                                    By age

                                       9%                                18-29         13%
                                                                                                                                                      3%
                                                                                                                                                                                   18-29           8%

                                                                         30-44       11%                                                                                           30-44 1%

                                                                         45-59       6%                                                                                            45-59      3%

                                                                            60+      3%                                                                                              60+ 0%

           Demographic differences:                                                                                           Demographic differences:

               •    More commonly used by women under the age of 45.                                                               •    Most likely to be a turn off 18-29 year olds and women in the North East
               •    More likely to be used by women with natural (10%)than chemically altered                                           (7%).
                    (5%) texture., and highest amongst women with 4C hair (12%).

           How is it used?                                                                                                    Why is it offensive?

           •       Hair is my crown and glory. Have been raised with this sentiment.                                           •       Not particularly offensive but some find it annoying , an unsuitable way of
           •       Celebrates natural hair                                                                                             referring to hair, or just not a term they would use.

. . . Which
       . of.these.terms.do you. use.in your.everyday
                                               . .   life, on.
                                                             social.   .or in.relation
                                                                    media,        . to.hair and
                                                                                             . beauty?
                                                                                                 . .         . .(n=600)
                                                                                                       Total sample . . . . . . .                                                                           28
           Do any of these words or terms make you cringe when you hear them used in relation to race or hair? Total sample (n=600)
“URBAN”
                                                     I use the term                                                                                          It makes me cringe
                                   Total                                             By age                                                       Total                                    By age

                                       5%                                18-29          6%                                                          7%                            18-29              12%

                                                                         30-44            8%                                                                                      30-44             11%

                                                                         45-59       4%                                                                                           45-59   2%

                                                                            60+      3%                                                                                             60+   2%

           Demographic differences:                                                                                           Demographic differences:

               •    No significant difference, but usage is slightly more common in for women                                      •    More likely to turn off or offend women aged under 45.
                    aged under 45..

           How is it used?                                                                                                    Why is it offensive?

           •       Literally, to describe city areas or living a city lifestyle, but is often used to mean                     •       Overused and misused.
                   Black.                                                                                                      •       Feels like a “code” for Black for people who are afraid to use the word Black.
                                                                                                                               •       Implies ghetto.

. . . Which
       . of.these.terms.do you. use.in your.everyday
                                               . .   life, on.
                                                             social.   .or in.relation
                                                                    media,        . to.hair and
                                                                                             . beauty?
                                                                                                 . .         . .(n=600)
                                                                                                       Total sample . . . . . . .                                                                           29
           Do any of these words or terms make you cringe when you hear them used in relation to race or hair? Total sample (n=600)
How does she feel about herself and the
       way she is represented in the beauty
       industry?

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .   30
How does she feel about her natural hair
                                                      type?
                                                                 Other
                                                                  2%
                                                                                                                                           Most African American women feel
                                             I don't like it
                                                 13%
                                                                                                                                       positively toward their hair and their natural
                                                                                                                                                   hair texture and type.

                                                                                                                                                     86%
                                                                                                    I love it
                                                                                                       40%

                                                                                                                                            Said that they “like” or “love” their
                                                                                                                                                        natural hair.
                                  I like it but it is
                                     challenging
                                         46%

. . . .Q How.do you
                 . feel.about.your.NATURAL
                                      . hair
                                           . type.(i.e..if/when.it is.NOT .    . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
                                                                          chemically altered)? Please tell us what you like/don't like. Total sample (n=600)
                                                                                                                                                                                31
Other                                                                                                                                              Other
                            2%                                                                                                                                                 1%

               I don't like it
                    8%                                                                                                                                                                     I love it
                                                                                                                                                            I don't like it                   31%
                                                                                                                                                                24%
                                            I love it
                                               44%

        I like it but it
       is challenging
                                                                                                                                                               I like it but it
              46%
                                                                                                                                                              is challenging
                                                                                                                                                                     44%

                                         Women with natural hair LOVE their hair type more
        . . . . .
                                              than those with chemically altered texture
                                        . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .                                                                                             32
Q How do you feel about your NATURAL hair type (i.e. if/when it is NOT chemically altered)? Please tell us what you like/don't like. Total sample (n=600)
Women with Type 1 and 2 hair are more likely to love
                                      their hair, and have fewer challenges

                                                             7%                                     11%                    In contrast, approximately half of women with type 3 or above said
                                                                                15%                                        that they like their hair but it is challenging. The most common
                                         17%
                                                                                                                           challenges include:
                    Other
                                                                                                                           •     Hard to manage or maintain
                                                                                                                           •     Detangling and keeping it detangled – many said their hair is
                    I don't like         27%                50%                                                                  hard to comb through
                                                                                                    51%
                    it                                                          48%                                        •     Not knowing how to style, maintain or care for their hair
                                                                                                                           •     Keeping hair moisturized
                    I like it but                                                                                          •     Finding the right products that work for their hair
                    it is
                    challenging
                                                                                                                           These challenges are similar for women with type 3 and above.
                    I love it
                                         52%
                                                            41%                                     38%
                                                                                35%

                                    1 / 2A / 2B / 2C    3A / 3B / 3C          4A / 4B                4C
. . . .Q How.do you
                 . feel.about.your.NATURAL
                                      . hair
                                           . type.(i.e..if/when.it is.NOT .    . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
                                                                          chemically altered)? Please tell us what you like/don't like. Total sample (n=600)
                                                                                                                                                                                         33
What does she LOVE
                  about her hair?
            African American women who love their natural hair type talked about
          loving not (or no longer) using chemicals, ease and versatility of styling,
            hair health, embracing their heritage, and being it part of themselves.

                          “I love my natural hair. I love the texture, smell and length of my hair. My
                                                         hair is beautiful.”

                      “I love the fact that I can wear it natural and it will look great, or I can flat iron
                      and straighten it and it will look great as well. I'm thankful that I do not need
                                                  the chemicals for my hair”

            “It is me, and I love my hair and texture. It represents my life as a person
                                              of color”

                                “It's super diverse, very fun to play in and taking care of it can be very
                                                     beneficial to your overall health.

          “Whatever type of hair God gave me I would love it and take care of it.”
        . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .                                                                                         34
Q How do you feel about your NATURAL hair type (i.e. if/when it is NOT chemically altered)? Please tell us what you like/don't like. Total sample (n=600)
One quarter do not feel well represented in the
                                                       hair and beauty industry
                                                  Women who do not feel well represented pointed to a need for greater diversity of women in advertising, on packaging, and in the media,
                                                  including featuring a wide range of skin tones, hair types, hair styles, and body types. They also commonly indicated that they need more
                                                                                        and better (and less expensive) products to meet their needs.

                                                                                                                                                              If no, what could the industry do to better represent you?

                                                                                                                                            More diversity of women featured                                                         53%

                                                                                                                                        More / better products to address my
                                                                                                                                                                                                              31%
                                                      Do you feel that you                                                                             needs
                                                      (and your hair type /                              No
                                                     skin tone) are currently                           25%                                 More Black owners and employees              5%
                                                     well represented in the
                                                         hair and beauty
                                                                                                                                                  More information to help me            8%
                                                            industry?

                                                                                                                                      More research to understand my needs              4%

                                                                                                                                                                                                   “Other comments were mostly stating that it
                                                                                                                                                                              Other      5%        is better than it used to be, but still room for
                                                                                                                                                                                                   improvement

. . . .Do you.feel.that you
                         . (and.your.hair .     . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
                                          type / skin tone) are currently well represented in the hair and beauty industry? If no, what could the industry do to better represent you? Total sample (n=600)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                35
Women with type 4C hair are most likely to feel that they
                                      are not well represented in the beauty industry
                                  Majority of those with type 3 or above hair who feel they are not represented want to see more diversity portrayed in the beauty industry

                         % who do not feel well represented                                                                         If not, what could industry do to better represent
                                                                                                                                                          them?

                                                                                                                                                44%
                   1 / 2A / 2B / 2C                             16%                                                         33%
                                                                                                                                                                                        0%                                22%
                                                                                                                                                                     0%based on small number of comment –0%
                                                                                                                                                                  (chart                                 n=9)

                                                                                                                            52%
                      3A / 3B / 3C                                            23%
                                                                                                                                                26%                  4%                 4%                                19%
                                                                                                                                                                  (chart based on small number of comment –0%
                                                                                                                                                                                                           n=27)

                                                                                                                            54%
                            4A / 4B                                                 26%
                                                                                                                                                32%
                                                                                                                                                                     5%                 5%
                                                                                                                                                                                                              10%         0%

                                                                                                                            58%
                                 4C                                                               34%
                                                                                                                                                30%
                                                                                                                                                                     8%                 15%                   3%          0%
                                                                                                                       More diversity      More / better         More Black      More information More research to        Other
                                                                                                                                            products            owners/staff                       understand my

. . . .Do you.feel.that you
                         . (and.your.hair .     . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .                                                                                                                needs
                                          type / skin tone) are currently well represented in the hair and beauty industry? If no, what could the industry do to better represent you? Total sample (n=600)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     36
Diversity means…                                                             “Most hair commercials are more geared toward
     “Represent us properly and not
       what’s in your imagination”                                                                                     “Use models with my hair type            straight hair. I have to really search to find
                                                            “Use women with different body types, and use more
                                                                                                                              on packaging”                                   products for me”
                                                                   women with 4b and 4c hair types..”

 “More images of women and other people with 4c hair,                                                                                                                    “Not tokenize us in advertisements,
  showing the struggles of having that hair type but also                  “Show more girls with like me with more     “It is rare that I see someone who looks          schools, salons and product needs.
 showing us being happy and not wanting to change it”                         natural hair and natural hairstyles”       like me and has my hair texture. The          Include and celebrate all skin color and
                                                                                                                           beauty industry is missing diversity            hair types, textures and patterns
                                                                                                                                                                       according to each individual needs. Non
 “They could show more Black women with
                                                                                                                                                                                biased representation.”
locs, without a chemical dye. Do a campaign                 “Show more women with dark brown skin and kinky coily
              celebrating locs.”                             hair. Especially in an afro. That would make me feel so      “They could show more dark-
                                                                                   much better.”                                                                                        “Show more people that look
                                                                                                                          skinned women with 4c hair”        “Promote all textures        like me in ads and on tv.”
                                                                                                                                                             of African American “

                    “Realize that people of color cover a WIDE spectrum of shades from light
    . . . . . . . . beige
                    . . to . charcoal
                              . . . black
                                       . . and. we
                                                 . .need. items
                                                           . . that
                                                                . .accentuates
                                                                      . . . .our. beauty.”
                                                                                     .                                                                                                             37
Some specifically called out what they
                           see as a tendency for the media and
                          beauty industry to use mixed race and
                             lighter skinned women with less
                          coarse hair to represent Black women

     “Use more unambiguous black women who are actually black and NOT mixed race”

“Usually the Black female models are clearly mixed race or they are from other countries like
    African or Caribbean countries. Rarely do you see someone who looks more traditional
African American, descendants of slaves in the US. Like Michelle Obama, Stacy Abrams, etc.”

“I feel that way because you can see in the ads that they want Black to look a certain way
     and the way our natural hair and skin is not 100% in the beauty and hair industry.”

“The media shows mixed women with curly hair and not dark-skinned women with 4c hair

 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .                                    38
However it is not just dark
                                       skinned women with 4C hair who
                                                 feel unseen
                                             There are so many combinations of hair type and skin tones and
                                             women want to see themselves reflected in imagery and
                                             communication and feel that THEIR unique needs are considered

                                                  “For a long time it was either products for white women's hair and skin
                                                     or black, highly textured or type 4c, and relaxed hair and skin, but
                                                  nothing for women like me who were mixed race, lighter skinned and a
                                                    variety of curl types. Every time I see a lighter skinned person it is a
                                                      token or a bunch that look very similar in curl patterns as if light
                                                  skinned women only have looser hair or shouldn't be as represented as
                                                  every other woman. Most of us don't know if the products are good for
                                                    us if we do not see how it can work for everyone if there is no one
                                                                    similar to us in these brands.” (3C hair)

                                        “Most African American products are designed for very coily hair. I feel
                                                 as though they have neglected my type.” (3B hair)

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .                                                        39
Half believe that some hairstyles or beauty choices are
                                associated with either lighter or darker skin tones

               View that everyone
                 is beautiful and                                                                                                                                   This includes both their own
                 unique and can                                                                                                                                     personal views on what looks
                choose whatever                                                                                                                                   better or is more suitable, as well
                looks she desires                                                                                                                                 as what they believe the views of
                regardless of hair                                                            For Black women, are                                                           society to be
                type or skin tone                                                              certain hair styles or
                                                                     No                            beauty choices
                                                                    49%                       associated with either
                                                                                                                                                 Yes
                                                                                               lighter or darker skin                            51%
                                                                                                       tones?

                                                                                                                                                                     Yes, I mostly hear these things in reference to dark
                                                                                                                                                                     skin black women. There is a deep hatred towards
             “I don't believe in colorism – i.e. if                                                                                                                     dark skin black women and it is truly sad and
               you are a darker Black this is for                                                                                                                     disgusting. I’ve heard people say they can’t wear
            you, or if you are a lighter Black this                                                                                                                  blonde hair or red lipstick and I think it’s ridiculous,
              is for you. You should make your                                                                                                                       and those people are ignorant and projecting their
               choice by what works for you “                                                                                                                            own self hate onto dark skin black women.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .                                                                                                                                                    40
      Do you think that for Black women, certain hair styles or beauty choices are sometimes associated with being more suitable for either lighter or darker skin tones? Total sample (n=600)
Associations and misconceptions about skin tone
                                                              and hair style or type

                “Because people think when you ate darker your hair is more                          “People assume people of color who are
                  oily and thick, bit when you have lighter skin your hair is                          of a lighter complexion should have                          “For example if the model is lighter-skinned she has loose
                                 straight like Caucasian hair.”                                                   straighter hair.”                               textured hair but if the model is dark-skinned her hair is kinky
                                                                                                                                                                  and tightly coiled. It never seems to be the other way around.”

                        “Dark skin is associated
                           with nappy hair.”                                                                                                                                             “Right now, I am seeing an emphasis on
                                                                     “I’m thinking specifically of wigs with loose curls; those are more associated with being                             hair twisting, which I would associate
                                                                       suitable for lighter skin tones. Also hair with highlights or lighter color hair is seen as                                 with darker skin tones
                                                                       more suitable for lighter skinned women. When darker skinned women (like myself)
               “The lighter the tone the                             wear lighter hair colors or hair with highlights (either natural colors or unnatural ones),
              more manageable the hair                                                  it’s usually seen as showy, unprofessional, or “ghetto””
                 style represents. The
                                                                                                                                                                                             “It is noticeable that kinky curly afro-
               darker the tone the more
                                                                                                                                                                                           type styles tend to look better on lighter
              kinkier the hair represents.
                                                                                                                                                                                            skin tones. Straight or wavy hair tends
                                                                                                                            “Many believe a lighter skin should be of                            to suit darker skin tones best.”
                                                 “Straight hair is associated with lighter hair while wild
                                                                                                                            a more European hair texture, and darker
                                                     hair is associated with darker skinned people”
                                                                                                                              skin should be more of a 4c texture.
                                                                                                                             Neither belief is true, because skin color
                                                                                                                                                                                           “Natural hair is more associated
                                                                                                                                 doesn’t determine hair texture..”
                                                                                                                                                                                               with darker skin tones.”
                 “I feel like certain styles like afros and braids are publically associated with
                medium to dark-skinned women. Whereas straighter hair and even wavy are
               publically associated with lighter-skinned women. In actuality, these hairstyles
                                                                                                                             “it is usually assumed that long hair is more                       “People think that looser textures
              are worn by any black woman, whether she's dark-skinned, medium skinned, or
                                                                                                                                 appropriate for lighter skinned people”                          are for lighter skin tones which
                                                   lighter-skinned.”
                                                                                                                                                                                                            isn’t the case.”

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .                                                                                                                                                            41
      Do you think that for Black women, certain hair styles or beauty choices are sometimes associated with being more suitable for either lighter or darker skin tones? “Yes” sample (n=308)
Colorism and preference for lighter skin tones

                                                                                          “Certain products are pushed for women                            “Some feel that braids are low class and they associate anything low
              “People tend to think that lighter is better and nice                          with lighter skin with nicer hair as                             class with a darker skin tone whereas loose curls are considered
                    hair is soft, straight and manageable..”                                opposed to darker skinned women.”                                    attractive, and they associate that with a lighter skin tone”

                    “I feel this way sometimes. Lighter skin
                      tones seem to be more acceptable”                                “Its an inside the culture thing”                      “It's all misogynoir, but for Black women with light brown skin, they're typically
                                                                                                                                               seen with more Eurocentric hairstyles (e.g. curly, or long, bone-straight hair)
                                                                                                                                              and Black women with darker skin are typically shown in short afros. 4c hair, in
                                                                                                                                                  general, is also not well-accepted among Black women unless the model
                                                                             “I feel like most styles are made to look                                                  rocking it has light brown skin.”
          “Lighter skin women are often told they
                                                                                        better on lighter skin”
             can pull off any hairstyle or beauty
             choices meanwhile darker skin are
           mocked women for their hair choices.”
                                                                              “The fact that this is true is a problem for my people that
                                                                               dates back to the height of colorism and promoting self
                                                                                             hate amongst Black people”                                                    “I grew up with the concept of good hair, bad
                                                                                                                                                                          hair. We were made to be ashamed of our hair.”

           “Black hair is/was often not represented positively due to
          beauty standards that have been imposed upon by society.
         This also goes for lack of understanding and racial biases as it                                “I feel women with darker complexion are                               “People will sometime say she’s
         was always stated that darker skin women were less appealing                                  supposed to look a certain way that is different                            too dark skin for that hair”
                       than women of lighter complexion”                                                   from women with a lighter complexion”

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .                                                                                                                                                       42
      Do you think that for Black women, certain hair styles or beauty choices are sometimes associated with being more suitable for either lighter or darker skin tones? “Yes” sample (n=308)
Perceptions that some things just don’t suit, or
                                                         look better, on certain skin tones
                                                                                This frequently related to colors (i.e. hair color, cosmetics)

                                                                                                                                                                                                 “Specifically, many say that brighter
                 “Certain colors look better on                     “Yes, I believe some people may think different
                                                                                                                                           “Certain hair colors look better on                   colors don't look good in dark skin
                    different complexions”                         skin tones "look better" with different hairstyles. I
                                                                                                                                           darker skin women and vice versa”                                    women.“
                                                                           believe that is ridiculous, though..”

        “You have to get the right hair style to                 “For a long time bright lipstick wasn't
                                                                                                                           “In regard to makeup, certain colors                        “Well, maybe fair skin (light skinned) black
             for your face and skin color”                        socially acceptable for dark skinned
                                                                                                                             aren't suitable with darker skin “                       women will wear blonde or light brown, even
                                                                                women”
                                                                                                                                                                                        red hair, rather than black or dark brown
                                                                                                                                                                                               because of their skin tone.“
                   “Dark skin should not wear blonde
                                                                          “I think light brown, blonde or other light colors
                     hair. It makes them look very
                                                                               sometime goes good on light skin black                        “When it comes to very bright
                               unnatural”
                                                                           women. I think black, dark blue or other dark                     hair colors I think darker skin                       “Some hairstyles only fit a lighter
                                                                               colors goes good on dark skin women.”                          should refrain from using.“                        skinned person or a hair color ie red“

                                                            This is also influenced by hair type, face shape and features

          “Hair styles should be based on the shape                                                                                                                     “All styles don't look good it                “Depending on
                                                                         “It's about the difference in the                “Certain hair textures work
            of your face. But beauty (makeup) is                                                                                                                      really depends on your skin tone                facial features.”
                                                                           texture of hair not skin tone.                 better with different styles.”
                 dealing with your skin tones”                                                                                                                          and the shape of your face.”

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .                                                                                                                                                           43
      Do you think that for Black women, certain hair styles or beauty choices are sometimes associated with being more suitable for either lighter or darker skin tones? “Yes” sample (n=308)
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. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .                                                                         44
Women who are aged under 45 are more likely
                       to feel that certain looks are more associated
                           with either lighter or darker skin tones
                   This is interesting as it implies that these views are not the outdated views of an older generation.
                     It may related to younger women tending to be more focused on appearances, and more self-
                                conscious, Higher usage of social media may also inform these perceptions.
                          For Black women, are certain hair styles or beauty choices
                              associated with either lighter or darker skin tones?

                              No                       No
                             41%                      42%                       No
                                                                                                         No
                                                                               54%
                                                                                                        62%

                             Yes                      Yes
                             59%                      58%                      Yes
                                                                                                        Yes
                                                                               46%
                                                                                                        38%

                             18-29                    30-44                    45-59                     60+
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .                                                                                                                                      45
      Do you think that for Black women, certain hair styles or beauty choices are sometimes associated with being more suitable for either lighter or darker skin tones? Total sample (n=600)
African American women of all hair types expressed similar levels
                            of agreement that some looks are more suited to either darker or
                                                  lighter skin tones
                         Despite many of the explanations given relating to the associations between hair type and skin tone, a consumer’s hair type does not
                                                  significantly impact whether or not she is aware of, or subscribes to, these beliefs.
                         Although not statistically significant, women with chemically altered hair textures were slightly more likely to indicate a belief that some
                                                                     looks are more associated with certain skin tones.
                                 For Black women, are certain hair styles or beauty choices associated with either lighter or darker skin tones?

                               No                       No                       No                       No                                                                                                No
                                                                                                                                                                    No
                              47%                      50%                      51%                      46%                                                                                               43%
                                                                                                                                                                   51%

                              Yes                      Yes                      Yes                      Yes                                                                                               Yes
                                                                                                         54%                                                       Yes                                     57%
                              53%                      50%                      49%                                                                                49%

                       1 / 2A / 2B / 2C            3A / 3B / 3C                4A / 4B                     4C
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Natural
                                                          . .hair texture                                                                                                                                        46 texture
                                                                                                                                                                                                  Chemically altered
       Do you think that for Black women, certain hair styles or beauty choices are sometimes associated with being more suitable for either lighter or darker skin tones? Total sample (n=600)
Communicating with African
       American consumers

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .   47
HASHTAGS & BUZZWORDS
                                                        We asked her what hashtags and buzzwords she loves and/or hates

                                      18%                                                                         8%                                                78%
                Listed hashtags/buzzwords they                                           Listed hashtags/buzzwords they                              Don’t know or don’t have any
                             LOVE                                                                     HATE:                                             that they love or hate
              Frequently mentioned terms include:                                      Frequently mentioned terms include:                        Hashtags and buzzwords are more the domain of
              •   Black girl magic (32 mentions)                                       •   Nappy (17 mentions)                                    younger women The proportion who couldn’t
              •   Natural / natural hair / natural curls / natural                     •   Black girl magic (6)                                   name any they love or hate increases significantly
                  beauty (13)                                                          •   Good hair / bad hair (7)                               with age:
              •   Queen / Black queen / Black royalty (12)                             •   Slang terms (e.g. booty, hoochie, baby mama            •   70% of 18-29 year olds
              •   Black beauty / black is beautiful (11)                                   and other more offensive terms) (5)                    •   69% of 30-44 year olds
              •   Black girls rock / Back women rock (7)                               •   Angry / angry black woman (4)                          •   88% of 45-59 year olds
              •   Black excellence (7)                                                 •   Queen (3)                                              •   90% of 60+ year olds
              •   Kinky /Coily / Curls / Afro (6)                                      •   For a black girl (i.e. pretty, for a black girl) (3)
              •   Melanin / melanin magic /melanated (6)                               •   Strong / strong black woman (2)
              •   Crown (5)                                                            •   Others include ghetto / ghetto fabulous,
              •   Love / love hair / black love (5)                                        sassy, ethnic, too dark, #teamdarkskin and
              •   Black lives matter / BLM (4)                                             #teamlightskin, colored, curly girl, ashy.
              •   Strong / stong black woman (4)
              •   Beautiful (4)
              •   Black hair / black natural hair (3)
              •   Magic / black magic (3)
              •   Black girl power (2)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .                                                                                                                              48
      What buzzwords or hashtags (particularly relating to Black women) do you love and/or hate? Total sample (n=600)
When looking at packaging or marketing, what
                          tells her a product is definitely for her?

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .                                                                                                                                                                 49
     When looking at haircare packaging, merchandising (i.e. store displays), or marketing, what are some key words / phrases, images or ingredients that make you think "this is definitely for me" Total sample (n=600)
What tells her a product is definitely for her?
                                                                           Moisturizing / hydrating                                                                                      15%
                 Words describing my hair type (e.g. kinky, coily, curly, thick, coarse, 4C)                                                                                       14%
                                                                                    Natural / organic                                                                    12%
                                                            Specific ingredients / ingredients list                                                                     12%
                                                             No chemicals / sulfate / alcohol etc                                                  8%
                 African American woman pictured / made for African American women                                                                 8%
                                                                                                                                                           When evaluating haircare product packaging, marketing,
                                                                                          Natural hair                                          7%                          and merchandising
                                                                    Particular hair need or benefit                                    6%                      African American women use a
                                                                                 Natural ingredients                                   6%                   number of cues to decide if a product
                                      Person pictured has the same hair type / looks like me                                        5%                             is suitable for their hair
                                                                     Strengthen / repair / protect                               5%                            One of the key words or benefits they look for is
                                                                                                                                                            “moisturizing”. They also look for words that describe
                                                                                  Smoothing / shine                         4%
                                                                                                                                                             their hair type, products that say they are natural or
                                                                       Detangling / manageability                          4%                                  organic, and specific ingredients they know to be
                                                                                                                                                              beneficial for African American hair, including shea
                                                                                     “Textured” hair                    3%
                                                                                                                                                           butter, castor oil, essential oils, coconut oil and olive oil.
                                                                                               Growth                 3%                                       Imagery also plays an important role; they look for
                                                                                 Healthy hair / scalp                 3%                                       African American women to be pictured, and more
                                                                                                                                                             specifically, women with the same hair texture, or who
                                                                                                Soften            2%                                                             look like them.
                                                                                    For all hair types          2%                                          They look for products that claim to address particular
                                                                                                                                                                needs including strength and repair, growth,
                                                                                  Ethnic hair / urban           2%
                                                                                                                                                                       smoothing/shine and detangling.
                                                                             Relaxed / straight hair            2%
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .                                                                                                                                                                 50
     When looking at haircare packaging, merchandising (i.e. store displays), or marketing, what are some key words / phrases, images or ingredients that make you think "this is definitely for me" Total sample (n=600)
When looking at packaging or marketing, what
                         tells her a product is definitely NOT for her?

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .                                                                                                                                                             51
     When looking at haircare packaging, merchandising (i.e. store displays), or marketing, what are some key words / phrases, images or ingredients that make you think "this is definitely NOT for me" Total sample (n=600)
What tells her a product is definitely NOT for her?
                     Chemical, unfamiliar, or unnatural ingredients (other or unspecified)                                                                                          12%
                                                               White or non black person shown                                                                            11%
                                                          Mentions perm, relaxer, straightening                                                    7%
                                    Shows/mentions hair that is straight/wavy/long/blonde                                                         7%
                                                                                               Alcohol                               5%
                                                                                              Sulfates                          4%
                                                                                   For fine/thin hair                      3%                     When evaluating haircare product packaging, marketing,
                                   Certain product types (eg dry shampoo, mousse, weave)                                3%
                                                                                                                                                     and merchandising INREDIENTS are one of the
                                                                                     Nappy/bad hair                   2%                           primary cues African American women use to determine
                                                                                 For “all hair types”                 2%                             that a product is NOT for them. Specific ingredients
                                                                                             Parabens                 2%                             include alcohol (5%), sulfates (4%), parabens (2%),
                                                                                          For oily hair            2%                              petroleum (1%) and silicon (1%). 13% also mentioned
                                                                                          Silky / shiny
                                                                                                                                                    other or unspecified chemical, unnatural, or unfamiliar
                                                                                                                   2%
                                                                                                                                                                         ingredients.
              Product that will strip moisture (including super clean / removes build-up)                          2%
                                                 Certain natural ingredients I don’t agree with                    2%
                                                                   Not my texture/style (general)                 2%                                 They are likely to evaluate as unsuitable products
                                                           Kinky hair / coarser texture than own                 2%                                showing a white or non-black model, those showing or
                                                                                                                                                    mentioning hair that is straight, long, or blonde, and
                                                                                     For natural hair         1%
                                                                                                                                                    products mentioning perm/relaxer/straightening (for
                                                                                       Too expensive          1%                                                 women with natural hair).
                                                                   Mentions volume / volumizing              1%
                                       Non-applicable benefits (eg frizz reduction, dandruff)                1%
                                                                                                                                                      Other less obvious cues include products that are
                                                                                             Moisture       1%
                                                                                                                                                      specified as being for fine or thin hair, for “all hair
                                                                                           Petroleum        1%                                      types”, for oily hair, or that mention boosting volume.
                                                                       Lightweight or water based           1%
                                                                                               Grease       1%
                                                                                                Silicon     1%
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .                                                                                                                                                             52
     When looking at haircare packaging, merchandising (i.e. store displays), or marketing, what are some key words / phrases, images or ingredients that make you think "this is definitely NOT for me" Total sample (n=600)
Product cue differences across demographic
                                           groups
                   Cues that a product is definitely for me                        Cues that a product is definitely NOT for me

            •   Women with 4C hair are more likely to look for natural         •    Women with type 3 hair or above are more likely to be
                ingredients and/or specific ingredients.                            turned off by products that show or mention straight or
                                                                                    wavy, blonde or long hair, and those which show images
            •   “Textured” hair is a term that was predominantly
                                                                                    on non-black women.
                mentioned by women with 3A/B/C hair.
                                                                               •    These factors are also more likely to dissuade
            •   Women with natural hair look for moisturizing claims and
                                                                                    consideration amongst women with natural than
                products that are natural/organic or formulated for
                                                                                    chemically altered hair textures.
                natural hair.
                                                                               •    Alcohol and sulfates are avoided more commonly by
            •   Women with chemically altered hair are less concerned
                                                                                    women with natural hair textures.
                with products being natural/organic or having natural
                ingredients, however they are likely to have specific          •    Younger women are more likely to have specific
                ingredients they look for, such as cocoa butter, shea               ingredients that that tell them a product is not suitable
                butter, and olive oil. They are also more likely to look for        (alcohol, sulfates, parabens), while older women were
                terms like growth, smooth/shine, and for all hair types             more likely to make more general references to
                                                                                    unnatural, chemical, or unfamiliar ingredients.
            •   Older women (60+) are most likely to look products that
                explicitly state they are for African American women
                and/or show images of African American women, while
                young women are more likely to look for words that
                describe their hair texture.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .                                                                                     53
ONE THIRD
                                    of African American women are
                                          occasionally or often
                                  o f fe n d e d o r t u r n e d o f f
                                 by communications from hair and beauty
                                      products, brands, or retailers

                                                                            Often
                                                                             8%

                                                                                               Occasionally
                                                                                                  27%

                              Rarely or never
                                   65%

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .                                                                                                                                                                   54
      Thinking about communication (eg advertising, social media, packaging, etc) you see from hair and beauty products, brands, or retailers how often do you find it offensive, or it turns you off? Total sample (n=600)
Women are offended or turned off by:
               Lack of diversity or                       False or misleading product                          Implying natural hair is                         Cliches and stereotypes in
               misrepresentation                                     claims                                         problematic                                          imagery
       “When they only show one shade of black                                                          “Advertisements that say you need a product
                                                         “The one thing that really infuriates me is
      women which is light skin women in particular                                                               to tame your hair texture.”               “I don't think you have to put an African flag
                                                       when I see a model on a hair care package or
                      mixed girls”                                                                                                                           on the bottle or show a woman wearing an
                                                       commercial where they talk about how great
                                                                                                                                                               African hair covering to imply they know
                                                       the product is for your hair, and the model is       “It turns me off when advertisements
         “Some brands will advertise that their                                                                                                                 about Black hair. It's frankly offensive.”
                                                                wearing a wig. I hate that.”              suggests that my hair needs to change its
        products are for all hair types when the
                                                                                                                        natural state.”
      commercial doesn't even show all hair types
           especially in the African spectrum”             “Not offensive, but annoying. Hair and                                                           “It’s weird to market products for poc using
                                                        beauty companies try to communicate that                                                                 bottles that are brown like the target
                                                         their product(s) are natural and for every     “They make it seem like it bad to have natural                         audience”
      “Most of them use pictures of females with a              type of hair, but it's untrue.”                            hair.”
         lighter complexion and straight hair to
                 promote their business”               “Product tries to make you believe if you use
                                                           it you cab have the same look as the
                                                                          models”

                  Offensive terms                                Attempts to profit                        Just because it doesn’t apply                             Racial insensitivity
         “I would find it irritating if the product    “When brands who've always catered to white        “When I see only white women or black            “When they put word black /white. Everything
         described hair types just the way the             women suddenly try to get the black              women with loose curly hair in the                      shouldn't be about race”
      community defined it as: kinky and bad hair.”                 woman's purse”                       communication, that turns me off. It shows
                                                                                                          me that the product is likely not going to       “When i see an advert that is not sensitive to
      “When I see a sign that indicates the products                                                                   work for me.”
                                                           “Companies that are not black owned                                                                other races besides the ones they are
       are for people of color. I want to ask what
                                                               profiting from black people.”            “I see hair textures and skin tones that do not            representing it turns me off”
          color do you need to be to use these
                                                                                                         apply to me, so I will not be able to use their
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
                        products.”
                                                                                                                           products.”
                                                                                                                                                                                        55
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