The Insider's Guide to Taking a Pebble Beach Golf Vacation - Insider secrets and priceless advice for visiting America's golf shrine

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The Insider's Guide to Taking a Pebble Beach Golf Vacation - Insider secrets and priceless advice for visiting America's golf shrine
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The Insider’s Guide to Taking a
 Pebble Beach Golf Vacation

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   Insider secrets and priceless advice
    for visiting America’s golf shrine

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The Insider's Guide to Taking a Pebble Beach Golf Vacation - Insider secrets and priceless advice for visiting America's golf shrine
Golf Odyssey is for golfers who want expert, honest, and trustworthy advice
   on where to play, stay, and dine worldwide. Unlike others, our approach is
   founded on editorial independence and objectivity.

   First, we do not sell golf packages or arrange/book golf vacations.

   Second, our travel tips and golf course, resort, and restaurant reviews are
   based largely on anonymous, “secret shopper” inspections by our small,
   expert staff.

   Third, we do not accept advertising from, or attend group media trips spon‐
   sored by, the golf courses, resorts, and restaurants we review.

   As such, our candid, insightful reviews have become legendary and are relied
   upon by avid golf travelers worldwide, including PGA professionals, Fortune
   500 CEOs, members of 95 of the top‐100 golf clubs in America, professional
   athletes and celebrities, and world‐famous golf course architects.

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The Insider's Guide to Taking a Pebble Beach Golf Vacation - Insider secrets and priceless advice for visiting America's golf shrine
Contents

Introduction: The Insider’s Guide to Taking a Pebble Beach Golf Vacation....…..4

The Best Time to Visit .................................................................…………………….5

How to Get There.........................................................................……………………5

Golf Packages and Packagers..................................................................….……..6

Where to Stay (Onsite)......................................……………………………………….……..6

           Making Tee Times as a Resort Guest.....................................................7

Where to Stay (Offsite)......................................…………….....……………………….…..8

Where to Play (Onsite).....…………………….………………………………………………………...8

          Pebble Beach Golf Links........................................................................8

                    9 Tips for Enjoying Your Round on Pebble Beach Golf Links......10

           Spyglass Hill Golf Course.....................................................................11

           The Links at Spanish Bay...................................................................11

           Del Monte Golf Course........................................................................12

           Peter Hay Golf Course.........................................................................12

How to Play the Pebble Beach Courses at a Discount.......................................13

           What You Can Expect to Spend...........................................…….………..13

Where to Play (Offsite)....................................................................................15

Where to Dine (Onsite).......................................................…………………………..16

Where to Dine (Offsite)……………......................................................................…..16

The Best Off‐Course Activities............................................................………………..18
The Insider's Guide to Taking a Pebble Beach Golf Vacation - Insider secrets and priceless advice for visiting America's golf shrine
Introduction: The Insider’s Guide to Taking a Pebble Beach Golf Vacation

   Pebble Beach Golf Links and the Pebble
   Beach Resort hold special reverence in
   the golf world. Every golfer who hasn't
   been wants — and ought — to make a
   pilgrimage there.

   With the exception of St. Andrews, no
   place in golf conjures the sport's allure
   like Pebble Beach.

   To utter the name is to summon images of water crashing the sea wall, land's
   end par threes like the 7th and 17th, a glorious finishing hole that wraps around
   the rocky beach, and a storehouse of history and lore.

   Pushing tee into turf here provides an instant connection to a storied past that
   includes U.S. Amateurs, U.S. Opens, The Crosby Clambake, Palmer’s Tree, and
   dozens of other happenings etched into golf’s legend and lore.

   Who can forget Tiger Woods' total domination en route to capturing his first US
   Open crown in 2000, Tom Kite's masterful play in nearly impossible gales in the
   1992 US Open, and Tom Watson's improbable chip‐in from the tall rough be‐
   hind the 17th green in 1982.

   No wonder Jack Nicklaus said if he only had one more round to play, he would
   play Pebble.

   Here’s hoping you have countless more rounds to play and Pebble Beach is just
   one of them.

                                                                 David Baum
                                                                 Editor & Publisher
                                                                 Golf Odyssey

Golf Odyssey                              4             The Insider’s Guide to the Best in Golf Travel
The Insider's Guide to Taking a Pebble Beach Golf Vacation - Insider secrets and priceless advice for visiting America's golf shrine
The Insider’s Guide to Taking a Pebble Beach Golf Vacation

The Best Time to Visit

                                                                                                                      A. Livsey
Unlike other situations, this might not be the
time to take a cue from the PGA Tour, which
has been making its annual tournament stop
at Pebble Beach in February.

That's not to say you can't have a great time
in winter (it really is quite mild all year
round), but if you go by average temperature
and precipitation alone, December through
March is the "riskiest" time to visit these hal‐
                                                         “The Lone Cypress” is a Pebble Beach area icon.
lowed golfing grounds.

And, given that it costs about $500 to play a            sure to inquire about the exact dates when
single round at Pebble Beach Golf Links (and             making your reservations.
there are no discounted “winter rates”), you
can understand why most people make their                How to Get There
reservations for the prime weather months of
May through October.                                     Most people flying in to Pebble Beach use
                                                         one of three airports:
Now, the early part of this window (summer
vacation time for most of us) would seem                 1. San Francisco International Airport (SFO),
ideal, but it can get quite foggy. People up             located about two hours north of the resort.
and down the California coast call this the              If you choose this option, we highly recom‐
"June gloom."                                            mend breaking up the drive with a stop at
                                                         Alister MacKenzie's beloved Pasatiempo Golf
So, the absolute best time for historically              Course, lovingly restored by architect Tom
ideal weather is late August, September,                 Doak.
and October, when average temperatures
are at their highest (low to mid 70s) and                2. San Jose International Airport (SJC) is
the risk of precipitation (and that pesky                about 90 minutes north of the resort and re‐
fog) is at its lowest.                                   ceives non‐stop flights from many major cit‐
                                                         ies across America (Atlanta, Austin, Boston,
As you might imagine, this is also the resort's          Chicago, Dallas, Denver, Houston, Minneapo‐
busiest time, and it's possible for the tee              lis, New York, Phoenix, Las Vegas, Portland,
sheet to be full a year in advance, so make              Seattle) including those in the Hawaiian Is‐
your arrangements accordingly.                           lands and from within California.

Another thing to keep in mind: aerification              3. Monterey Peninsula Airport (MRY) is by
often takes place in September (March, too)              far the most convenient to the resort as it's
and it can take a week to 10 days before the             only about 15 minutes away. Commercial
greens are back to their smooth selves. Make             flights (American, United, US Airways, Alle‐

     Golf Odyssey                                 5                  The Insider’s Guide to the Best in Golf Travel
The Insider's Guide to Taking a Pebble Beach Golf Vacation - Insider secrets and priceless advice for visiting America's golf shrine
The Insider’s Guide to Taking a Pebble Beach Golf Vacation

giant) serve Monterey non‐stop from San                 The exception is the travel agent who can get
Francisco, Los Angeles, Phoenix, Las Vegas,             preferred tee times, access to top private
and Denver. If you fly privately, the airport           courses, or reservations at in‐demand restau‐
has a 7,600‐foot runway.                                rants. One such firm is Monterey Peninsula
                                                        Golf Tours run by Herschel Hoffmann. Mr.
If you're driving in, we highly recommend get‐          Hoffman specializes in bringing British and
ting off the interstate (at least for a while)          Irish golfers to Pebble Beach, but his "insider"
and taking the Pacific Coast Highway, one of            connections (he was a member at Monterey
the most scenic and interesting stretches of            Peninsula Country Club) can certainly benefit
road in America.                                        North American golfers, too.

Pebble Beach Golf Packages                              All this being said, the resort itself does, at
                                                        times, create special, seasonal packages and
As you can imagine, Pebble Beach Resorts is             it promotes them through a hand‐picked net‐
very protective of its brand, and part of that          work of partners. We're one of them, so
protection is its general policy against dis‐           watch your email inbox.
counting, even to travel agents.
                                                        Where to Stay (Onsite)
"We do not have a travel agent rate," we
were told in no uncertain terms by a sea‐               While there are theoretically dozens of places
soned Pebble Beach Resorts reservation                  to stay in and around Pebble Beach, if you
agent when we called to get clarification on            want to make tee times far in advance for
this topic.                                             Pebble Beach Golf Links, Spanish Bay, or Spy‐
                                                        glass Hill, you effectively must stay at the re‐
That's why if you Google, "Pebble Beach golf            sort (details are in the section below on
packages," the result is a relatively small             Making Tee Times).
number of third parties ‐‐ because they can't
make much, if any, money selling them.                  But the decision‐making doesn't end there;
                                                        the resort itself presents several lodging op‐
The ones that do show up are simply reselling           tions with different locations, layouts and
the retail packages offered by the resort it‐           price points.
self, but not before marking them up to gen‐
                                                                                                                     John Rife
erate a little profit for themselves.

Some of them do this instead by combining,
say, two nights at Pebble Beach with three
nights at a more travel agent‐friendly (i.e.
commission‐based) hotel in Monterey.

That's not to say that travel agents can't be
helpful in making your Pebble Beach arrange‐
ments, but if you only want to stay at the resort,
don't expect to save anything more than time.
                                                        The understated exterior of the Lodge at Pebble
                                                        Beach. Inside, the rooms are large and elegant.

     Golf Odyssey                                6                  The Insider’s Guide to the Best in Golf Travel
The Insider's Guide to Taking a Pebble Beach Golf Vacation - Insider secrets and priceless advice for visiting America's golf shrine
The Insider’s Guide to Taking a Pebble Beach Golf Vacation

                       Perhaps the best approach is to choose your
                       accommodations based on the type of experi‐
                       ence you're looking for:
                                                                                           Making Tee Times
                                                                                      As we mentioned earlier, your ability to make
                       The Lodge at Pebble Beach, for example, is                     advanced tee times will vary greatly if you're a
                       the hub of the resort and always has a buzz.                   resort guest or not, and there are even differ-
                       Pebble Beach Golf Links and the Pebble Beach
                                                                                      ences based on which resort lodging you
                       shops are here. And at night, there's no bet‐
                                                                                      choose and which course(s) you want to play.
                       ter place to hang out than at the Lodge's Tap
                       Room. The Lodge is least appealing from the
                                                                                      Pebble Beach Golf Links:
                       outside, with a dormitory‐like look, but in‐
                                                                                      Guests of the Lodge at Pebble Beach and the
                       side, the rooms are great. All are large and
                                                                                      Inn at Spanish Bay can book tee times up to
                       elegant, with marble dressing areas, separate
                       showers and oversized tubs, and fireplaces.                    18 months in advance for Pebble Beach Golf
                                                                                      Links; Casa Palmero guests can book 12
                       The Inn at Spanish Bay has a more secluded,                    months out. Regardless of which resort lodg-
                       resort‐like ambiance and is probably the best                  ing you choose, you have to stay at least two
                       choice if you have non‐golfers in your traveling               nights for every one round you wish to play on
                       party (there’s a great fitness facility, swimming              the Links. If you're not a guest of Pebble
                       pool, and eight tennis courts). The property fea‐              Beach Resorts, you can only make a tee time
                       tures lots of stone and wood, and the rooms                    for Pebble Beach Golf Links one day in advance.
                       themselves are appointed with lovely blond
                       wood furniture, gas fireplaces, and terraces                   Spyglass Hill Golf Course:
                       overlooking the ocean or the forest. From here,                Guests of the Lodge at Pebble Beach and the
                       it's a 10‐minute drive to Pebble Beach Golf Links              Inn at Spanish Bay can book tee times up to
                       and Spyglass Hill, but it's an easy walk to the                18 months in advance; Casa Palmero guests
                       Links at Spanish Bay. At dusk, you can enjoy                   can book 12 months out. You have to stay
                       ocean‐front cocktails amid fire pits and Scottish
                                                                                      one night per round you wish to play. If you're
                       bagpipes. The only negatives from our perspec‐
                                                                                      not a guest of Pebble Beach Resorts, you can
                       tive are the Inn's spread out nature—the walk to
                                                                                      only make tee times for Spyglass Hill a month in
                       the center of things can be quite long—and its
                       heavy corporate traffic.                                       advance.

                                                                                      Links at Spanish Bay and Del Monte GC:
Pebble Beach Resorts

                                                                                      Guests of the Lodge at Pebble Beach and the
                                                                                      Inn at Spanish Bay can book tee times up to
                                                                                      18 months in advance; Casa Palmero guests
                                                                                      can book 12 months out. You have to stay
                                                                                      one night per round you wish to play. If you're
                                                                                      not a guest of Pebble Beach Resorts, you can
                                                                                      only make tee times for The Links at Spanish
                                                                                      Bay and/or Del Monte Golf Course six months
                                                                                      in advance.
                       The Inn at Spanish Bay is often the best choice for
                       groups with non‐golfers.

                            Golf Odyssey                                     7                  The Insider’s Guide to the Best in Golf Travel
The Insider's Guide to Taking a Pebble Beach Golf Vacation - Insider secrets and priceless advice for visiting America's golf shrine
The Insider’s Guide to Taking a Pebble Beach Golf Vacation

Casa Palmero is the choice for those who                (for this, see our Where to Play Offsite recom‐
want the ultimate in privacy and pampering.             mendations that follow), but they are quite
This refurbished, Mediterranean‐style estate            enjoyable if you're in the mood for shorter,
alongside the first and second fairways of              sporty layouts and less strenuous terrain.
Pebble Beach Golf Links, brings small‐hotel
charm to the sprawling Pebble Beach resort.             The Pete Dye design at Carmel Valley Ranch
Consider the check‐in process: you are                  ($135‐$225) is fresh off a renovation that in‐
greeted by name on the circular driveway and            cluded significant work to the cart paths, tee
escorted directly to your room. Only there              boxes, greens, irrigation, and drainage. Unfor‐
will an employee discreetly ask for your credit         tunately, the eccentric routing remains essen‐
card and return it later. Each of the 24 guest          tially unchanged.
rooms and suites—all with fireplaces, fresh
flowers, and vast marble bathrooms—is spa‐              The resort‐style eighteen at Quail Lodge
cious and sumptuously furnished. The down‐              ($140‐$200) was routed by Robert Muir
stairs rooms have private patios with whirl‐            Graves through a country club community
pools; the upstairs rooms have views of the             and currently stretches only to 6,449 yards.
course. Two have ocean views. The main part             It's clubhouse received special attention dur‐
of the former mansion is given over to a                ing the property's most recent renovation.
tasteful bar, library, billiards room and con‐          Edgar's restaurant and sports bar is appealing
ference rooms. Casa Palmero has no restau‐              for post‐round drinks and dinner. As is the
rant of its own, but complimentary cocktails            case with Carmel Valley Ranch, the green fee
and hors d'oeuvres are a nightly treat and the          is a bit steep for the experience.
main Lodge's regular restaurants are only a
short walk away.
                                                        Where to Play (Onsite)
Where to Stay (Offsite)
                                                        Pebble Beach Golf Links
As noted, unless you need guaranteed, ad‐               ‐ Greens Fee: $495
                                                        ‐ Caddies Available: Yes
vance tee times at Pebble Beach Golf Links,             ‐ Carts Available: Yes (cart path only)
Spyglass Hill, or Spanish Bay, you don't have           ‐ Pull Carts Available: No (and not permitted)
to stay at the Pebble Beach Resort. There are
dozens of lodges and inns in Monterey and               Lately, it's become fashionable to argue that
Carmel Valley, most notably the Bernardus               Spyglass Hill and/or The Links at Spanish Bay
Lodge (a couple's paradise), Quail Lodge (a             are better golf courses than the renowned
wonderfully relaxing home base), and Carmel             Pebble Beach Golf Links.
Valley Ranch (which recently underwent ex‐
tensive renovations). These lodging alterna‐            True, its Monterey mates may be architectur‐
tives are at least as nice and far less stressful       ally more “correct,” and offer greater hole‐to‐
on the bank account.                                    hole consistency, but what makes a golf
                                                        course great isn’t just its angles, it’s the ex‐
Be advised, the golf courses at Carmel Valley           perience it provides. And for that, there is
Ranch or Quail Lodge are not likely to satisfy          none more powerful on the Peninsula than
you if you're looking for a challenging game            Pebble.

     Golf Odyssey                                8                  The Insider’s Guide to the Best in Golf Travel
The Insider's Guide to Taking a Pebble Beach Golf Vacation - Insider secrets and priceless advice for visiting America's golf shrine
For one thing, the course was played for

                                                                                                                  Golf Odyssey
nearly 50 years before Spyglass was even
planted and nearly 70 years before Spanish
Bay. So, if you want a true sense of "where it
all began," this is the place to play.

That’s not to say the design isn’t anything less
than spectacular, too. In fact, every hole has a
special stimulant that puts the central nerv‐
ous system on full alert, whether it’s a strate‐
gic option, a heart‐pounding challenge, or a
majestic, cliff‐top view of the Pacific Ocean.
                                                      The 7th hole at Pebble Beach Golf Links is one of
Bottom line: this is one course that lives up to      the most photographed in golf.
its hype.

No matter the pace of play, the rounds seem          Holes 4 through 10 are as good a stretch as
to fly by. Once you get to the 4th hole, if you      you will play in the world. Just be sure to
blink, you're making the turn. Blink again and       bring your camera and your A‐game! Hole 5,
you're on 15. And the glorious finish: the par‐      the coastal par three designed by Jack Nick‐
three 17th playing back to the sea, and the          laus in the late 1990s after Pebble finally ac‐
famous par‐five 18th playing along the coast         quired a long‐cherished plot of land, was the
to the Lodge—leaves you looking back in ut‐          toughest hole to par in the 2000 Open.
ter awe.
                                                     The little drop‐shot par three 7th (depending
Unquestionably, Pebble Beach Golf Links              on the wind, it can be a sand wedge or mid‐
starts a little slowly out of the gate, but a        iron) that overhangs the abyss may be our
number of changes were made in preparation           favorite short one‐shotter on earth.
for the 2010 US Open that added bite to a
relatively benign opening.                           Though the par‐four 10th was tough enough
                                                     already at 430 yards, the subsequently added
Most notably, trees and bunkers were added           length makes for an utterly nerve‐wracking
to tighten the driving zones and maintain the        tee shot as the fairway follows Carmel Bay
integrity of doglegs.                                and slopes toward the water.

The par‐five 2nd, in addition to being length‐       On 14, changes since the 2000 US Open in‐
ened 15 yards, now features a huge bunker            clude big bunkers (with big lips) to catch balls
complex on the left‐hand side and another            running through the fairway in the left hand
bunker a little further down into the fairway        landing zone and another new bunker set
to catch the long ball. To replace the trees         ahead of the old fairway bunker in exactly the
that died on either side beyond the dreaded          area where modern drives come to rest. This
barranca bunker, the groundskeepers planted          par five is a legitimate dogleg again.
significant cypress trees to restore the tree‐
framed shot. The hole now sports a very dif‐         Additionally, decades after an ill‐fated tree
ferent look and plays much harder.                   that fell victim to “lightning” the night after a

     Golf Odyssey                                9               The Insider’s Guide to the Best in Golf Travel
The Insider's Guide to Taking a Pebble Beach Golf Vacation - Insider secrets and priceless advice for visiting America's golf shrine
The Insider’s Guide to Taking a Pebble Beach Golf Vacation

                     9 Tips for Enjoying Your Round
                      on Pebble Beach Golf Links
Walk the course. Pebble Beach is a joyous                    tee time. Given that the new range (which
walk, as tee boxes are very close to the previ-              opened January 2014) is a five-minute shuttle
ous green. If you elect to drive a cart, keep in             ride away (and you may have to wait for the
mind that you will be confined to the cart path.             shuttle), allow yourself at least an hour if you
                                                             want to warm up before your round.
Take a caddie. At $65 per bag, plus tip, hiring a
caddie at Pebble Beach Golf Links costs more                 Play the correct tee box. This is a course you
than the average American green fee, yet the                 want to savor and revel in every moment. It's
resulting advice and colorful history and lore is            no use beating yourself up playing from the
utterly invaluable. What most people don’t                   tips. As the starter which tees are most appro-
know about these coverall-clad champions of                  priate for your handicap or average score. Oh,
the golf challenged is that many of them are                 and on the first tee, relax. No matter how bad
highly skilled players in their own right.                   your shot, someone else has done worse. It's
Whether they’re twenty-something mini-tour                   counterintuitive given the price to play, but
players or twenty-year veterans from Scotland,               Pebble attracts many people who can barely
they all know and love golf and will use their               swing a club.
experience to make you feel comfortable and
get the most from your round. In addition to                 Hone your sand game. Pebble Beach features
pointing out aiming lines, hidden hazards, sub-              some of the smallest and most strategically
tle green breaks, and deceptive wind currents,               bunkered greens you are likely to play. In fact,
they’re veritable encyclopedias when it comes                the fourth hole features the smallest green on
to the course’s famous sites. The golf course                the PGA tour. Spend some time in the bunkers
does give you the option of carrying your own                at the practice area.
bag or renting a golf cart, but the caddy’s com-
pensation is likely the best money you could                 Prepare to play fast. The greeter will read you
spend here.                                                  the riot act about “no mulligans” and the re-
                                                             quirement to complete the round in 4 1/2
Choose the right tee time. If it's your first time           hours. Groups are sent off every ten minutes
playing Pebble Beach and you really want to                  and the marshals are keen on keeping play
"take it all in," we recommend choosing an af-               moving. This may irk players who've just
ternoon tee time. The views are likely to be                 burned a $500+ hole in their wallets for the
clearer (less chance of fog) and the pace of                 green fee and caddie, but we applaud manage-
play may be more conducive to taking in the                  ment's efforts to address a historical problem.
scenery…and taking pictures, as you'll see                   Even with Kodak moments, there's no reason
many people doing. On the other hand, if                     to spend more than 4:30 playing any course.
you've played here before, you might want to
make an early tee time. It's worth risking the               Don't load up on balls. Caddies hate lugging the
morning fog to beat the inevitable afternoon                 extra weight, and more importantly, you don't
backup and course conditions will be markedly                need much ammo here. Most of the water haz-
better. Playing early also leaves time for an-               ards are lateral, so unless you really spray the
other 18 or the ability to enjoy the resort's                ball, you'll be able to find it and play it.
other amenities and activities.
                                                             After your round, visit the Tap Room. In addition
Whatever your tee time, arrive early. Pebble                 to being a veritable museum of American golf, it
Beach requires that all players be on the 1st                serves a phenomenal burger and expertly
tee at least ten minutes before their scheduled              prepared drinks.

      Golf Odyssey                                   10                  The Insider’s Guide to the Best in Golf Travel
The Insider’s Guide to Taking a Pebble Beach Golf Vacation

                                                                                                                       Amy Halverson
shot by Arnold Palmer hit it and ricocheted
out of bounds, a new tree in the fairway has
replaced the “Arnold Palmer tree.” (By the
way, Mr. Palmer, who never won here, ulti‐
mately secured his prize when he became
one of the owners of Pebble Beach.)

On hole 15 you just can't attack the tee ball
fearlessly anymore thanks to tree planting on
the right side and the addition of formidable
bunkers (including a pot) on the left. When
                                                         The opening, dune‐filled holes at Spyglass Hill are
you reach 18, the most sublime finishing hole            its best.
in golf, you will now see new trees in the fair‐
way and a bunker on the right side.                      taste of the forest and ocean simultaneously.
                                                         The next four tests follow the sea. These
Other significant changes have been made to              holes are not only beautiful but also strategic
the greens. Pebble's old push‐up greens sat              and varied, with shots over blind ridges and
on clay‐based soil. The course has gradually             final approaches to offset greens requiring
switched to sand‐based putting surfaces that             placement as well as length.
conform to USGA standards.
                                                         Jones considered the short par‐four 4th the
Spyglass Hill Golf Course                                best hole he ever designed. Options abound
‐ Greens Fee: $360                                       on the tee. Players electing to go long and
‐ Caddies Available: Yes                                 deep had better be precise. Shorter hitters
‐ Carts Available: Yes (cart path only)                  and conservative golfers have an easy drive
‐ Pull Carts Permitted: Yes (but not for rent)
                                                         into a wide landing zone, although the ap‐
                                                         proach then becomes a knee‐knocking test,
Our second favorite course at the resort is
                                                         as the green is small and tough to hold.
Pebble Beach Resort's most difficult layout,
and one of the toughest on the PGA Tour.
                                                         After the 5th, Spyglass turns uphill into the
Robert Trent Jones, Sr. built the course in
                                                         forest for the balance of the day. While the
1965 for just $300,000—how's that for an
                                                         golf is not as memorable, it's still quite enjoy‐
investment!—using Pine Valley as his model
                                                         able, and if you can control your ball flight,
for the opening dune‐filled holes, and Au‐
                                                         you have an opportunity to score.
gusta National as a blueprint for the tree‐
lined remainder of the course.
                                                         The Links at Spanish Bay
                                                         ‐ Greens Fee: $260
The dunes holes steal the show, and it's al‐             ‐ Caddies Available: Yes
ways been a great misfortune to Spyglass's               ‐ Carts Available: Yes (allowed on fairways)
reputation that the rest of the eighteen can't           ‐ Pull Carts Permitted: Yes (but not for rent)
match the opening.
                                                         With its complement of sandy dunes, high
The 1st, a par five, races downhill toward the           rough, and beautiful oceanfront holes, Span‐
sea. This is the only hole that gives players a          ish Bay provides yet another world‐class

      Golf Odyssey                               11                   The Insider’s Guide to the Best in Golf Travel
The Insider’s Guide to Taking a Pebble Beach Golf Vacation

              round at the resort. And this first great faux‐              long par five with a gorse‐filled ravine split‐
              Scottish public course in the US is less                     ting the second half of the fairway. Overall,
              crowded, less expensive, in better shape, and                however, Spanish Bay is a very fine course
              much more relaxed than its famous siblings.                  without great highs and lows.

              In 1987 designers Robert Trent Jones, Jr.,                   A word of caution for players who have trou‐
              Tom Watson, and Sandy Tatum had the ad‐                      ble controlling their shots: Spanish Bay is
              vantage of creating their homage to Scottish                 quite tight in places with numerous environ‐
              golf on a sand dune. Spanish Bay enjoys far                  mental areas.
              superior drainage to any other course at the
              resort, and as a result, carts are permitted on              Players who spray the ball around are in for a
              the fairway.                                                 long day. Even moving to a shorter tee box
                                                                           can't save wayward hitters. If warming up at a
              The biggest change over the years has been                   range helps your accuracy, keep in mind that
              the switch from the original fescue fairways                 only a putting and chipping area is available
              and greens, which didn't take well here, to                  at Spanish Bay.
              ryegrass fairways and poa greens like at the
              other courses at the resort. Because the poa
              greens at Spanish Bay are larger and newer                   Del Monte Golf Course
              than those at Pebble, they sport a much more                 ‐ Greens Fee: $110
              attractive, uniform look and are much less                   ‐ Caddies Available: Yes
                                                                           ‐ Carts Available: Yes (allowed on fairways)
              susceptible to the impact of grain.
                                                                           ‐ Pull Carts Permitted: Yes (but not for rent)

              The round starts off with the best opening
                                                                           Del Monte Golf Course, an 18‐hole, par‐72
              hole on the Monterey Peninsula. Try to play
                                                                           layout, claims to be "the oldest course in con‐
              this reachable, Scottish‐flavored par‐five run‐
                                                                           tinuous operation west of the Mississippi"
              ning to the sea in the late afternoon as the
                                                                           inland course, wide fairways lined with oak,
              view from the tee is one of the most magnifi‐
                                                                           pine and cypress trees
              cent you will find in American golf.

              We also especially like the 8th, a par three
                                                                           Peter Hay Golf Course
              over a pond with the ocean behind, and 18, a                 ‐ Greens Fee: $30 (Juniors 13‐17: $10; under 12: Free)
                                                                           ‐ Caddies Available: n/a
Fritz Liess

                                                                           ‐ Carts Available: Yes
                                                                           ‐ Pull Carts Permitted: Yes (but not for rent)

                                                                           Peter Hay Golf Course is a collection of nine,
                                                                           par‐3 holes located across the street from
                                                                           Pebble Beach Golf Links.

                                                                           While these two courses may be good and good
                                                                           fun, we certainly wouldn't recommend playing
                                                                           them over the pebble beach resort courses
              The Links at Spanish Bay can be particularly tough           above or the off‐resort courses that follow.
              on those who hit spray the ball.

                   Golf Odyssey                                    12                   The Insider’s Guide to the Best in Golf Travel
The Insider’s Guide to Taking a Pebble Beach Golf Vacation

How to Play the Pebble Beach Courses
at a Discount                                             What You Can Expect to Spend
                                                          If you’re unable or unwilling to leverage
Play at Twilight. Pebble Beach Resorts does               the discount options presented, here’s
offer twilight rates at its Spyglass Hill and             what you can expect to pay for various
Spanish Bay golf courses, but not at Pebble               Pebble Beach goods and services:
Beach Golf Links.
                                                          Accommodations (per room, per night):
The rate is $180 to walk and $210 to ride at              Lodge at Pebble Beach: from $715
Spyglass Hill. It’s $130 to walk and $160 to              Inn at Spanish Bay: from $615
ride at Spanish Bay. As far as the riding rates           Casa Palmero: from $875
go, this represents an approximate 30‐35 per‐
cent discount off the regular fee. Replay rates           Taxes and Fees (per room, per night):
cost the same as the twilight rates.                      Occupancy Tax: 10.5%
                                                          County Tourism Tax: $2
                                                          Resort/Service Fee: $20-$25
Keep in mind that, like most places, “twilight”
starts at different times during the year and it          Greens Fees (no replay discounts):
can be as late as 5:30 pm in the summer.                  Pebble Beach: $495
                                                          Spyglass Hill: $360
One reason you might not see many people                  Spanish Bay: $260
taking advantage of these discounted rates is             Del Monte: $110
because you can’t reserve twilight tee times              Peter Hay: $30 (discounts for children)
at the Pebble Beach golf courses in advance –
they are available at the pro shop on a first‐            Caddies:
come, first served basis only.                            $80 (plus $35-$55 suggested gratuity)

Still, this might be a better option than paying          Carts:
full price for a round that you can’t finish, a           $35 ($25 at Del Monte) or Free for resort
                                                          guests
problem the resort tries to mitigate by fully
disclosing that certain tee times fall under the
                                                          Course Guide:
“not‐guaranteed‐to‐finish” category. (This is             $10
another reason why you might not see many
people teeing off in the afternoon.)                      Range Balls:
                                                          $10 or free with tee time

Play During Aerification. By default, this                Rental Clubs:
weeklong window doesn't come around of‐                   $95
ten, but when it does, you can play Pebble
Beach Golf Links for nearly half the regular              Dining, Per Person:
rate.                                                     Gallery Cafe: $10-$30
                                                          The Tap Room: $30-$50
                                                          Roy’s: $30-$50
For example, a few years ago, we learned
                                                          Peppoli: >$50
that Pebble Beach Golf Links would be con‐

     Golf Odyssey                               13                  The Insider’s Guide to the Best in Golf Travel
The Insider’s Guide to Taking a Pebble Beach Golf Vacation

ducting large‐tyne aerification one day in               cipitation is highest then, too, about 20 days
early September, and, for the following three            of each month, on average, are dry.
days, the green fee was reduced from its                 Second, any member of a recognized state or
regular $475 to $250.                                    regional golf association in the US and Can‐
                                                         ada can join the NCGA for $25.
During the four days after that, the green fee
was $350.                                                And, in addition to this special offer on Peb‐
                                                         ble Beach golf courses, NCGA members can
While Spyglass Hill and the Links at Spanish             play Poppy Hills (previously used for the PGA
Bay also undergo similar, periodic mainte‐               Tour’s AT&T Pebble Beach Pro Am) for $55‐
nance, at the time, the resort had not an‐               $70, instead of the regular $200. There is a
nounced discounted green fees and the reser‐             long list of other benefits, too, which you can
vation attendant we spoke with indicated                 find at ncga.org.
that none was likely.
                                                         Finally, and perhaps most important of all,
Most importantly, if a deep discount is what             someone I know called the Pebble Beach Re‐
motivates you to whip out the credit card and            sorts reservation number (800) 654‐9300, in‐
take a Pebble Beach golf vacation, bear in               quired about “special rates on Pebble Beach
mind that maintenance schedules are subject              golf courses until the end of January,” and
to change. And sometimes the discount policy             had no problem starting the reservation proc‐
does, too. In some years, a pro shop gift card           ess…without being asked about NCGA mem‐
is offered instead. Our best advice? Call the            bership or residency.
resort and "check before you charge."
                                                         I’ll leave you to draw your own conclusions
Join the NCGA. We're not sure if this is of‐             about that.
fered every year, but it's well worth checking
out.                                                     Join the Duke's Club. Pebble Beach offers
                                                         something called the Duke's Club Member‐
At certain times of the year (usually Decem‐             ship.
ber and January), members of the Northern
California Golf Association (NCGA) and any               It won't help you get a discount at Pebble
resident of Northern California can play the             Beach Golf Links, but it's a great way for you ‐
Pebble Beach courses, including the Links, for           ‐ and others in your group ‐‐ to each save
30%‐50% off.                                             about 50% at Spyglass Hill, the Links at Span‐
                                                         ish Bay, and Del Monte Golf Course.
Equally important, you're not required to stay
at the comfortable, but expensive, Pebble                It costs $295 to join, but again, given the 50%
Beach Resort to get these rates.                         discount on green fees for you and your
                                                         group members, it might be worth it
A few important things to keep in mind:                  (especially if you're planning on playing multi‐
                                                         ple rounds).
First, Pebble Beach golf courses enjoy an av‐
erage high temperature of 60°F (15.5 °C) in              You get other perks as a member of the
December and January. While average pre‐                 Duke's Club, which you can read about here.

     Golf Odyssey                                14                  The Insider’s Guide to the Best in Golf Travel
The Insider’s Guide to Taking a Pebble Beach Golf Vacation

Where to Play (Offsite):

                                                                                                                   Bayonet & Blackhorse
For sheer convenience, you can't beat Poppy
Hills which is about two miles away. This
championship track (a former staple of the
AT&T Pebble Beach National Pro‐Am rota‐
tion) is owned and operated by the Northern
California Golf Association (NCGA) and ex‐
tends to its members greens fees of $55 to             You can’t go wrong at either course at Bayonet
$70 instead of the usual $200.                         and Blackhorse (above).

What good does that do you? As described              While the front nine is an uneventful add‐on
earlier, anyone who belongs to a state golf           crammed into limited playing space amidst
association can become an NCGA Association            old houses, the original, very good back nine
member for $25 (just be sure to sign up at            along the water is attributable to Pebble
least a day in advance of your tee time).             Beach creator Jack Neville. The highlight is
                                                      the 11th hole, a dogleg right that features a
Keep in mind, Poppy Hills is a parkland layout        scenic tee shot and stakes a claim for being
routed over rolling hills. Other than for a few       the best par five on Seventeen Mile Drive.
glimpses of the Pacific and the sounds of
seals in the background, you wouldn't know            The downside of this city‐owned course is
you are so close to the ocean.                        that it's very busy. Course conditions can be
                                                      dicey, too, although in most instances we've
Another tour‐quality venue that offers excel‐         found the layout in very reasonable shape.
lent bang for your buck is Bayonet and Black‐         Efforts to firm up the fairways to play like a
horse ($60‐$120), a 36‐hole facility about 20         true links have paid off. Given the scenery
minutes north of Pebble Beach. Even before a          and quality of the game, this is one of our fa‐
blade of grass was touched for the recent             vorite munis in the country, and it just may
renovations, both courses were really good            be the best $45 green fee you will ever find.
and tough. Now some of the holes have been
rerouted, bunkers have been updated, and              If you're in the area and have connections,
the green complexes strengthened. And                 you should beg and bribe whomever you can
thanks to the removal of overgrown trees and          to play Cypress Point, the 36‐hole Monterey
brush, almost every hole looks out on Mon‐            Peninsula Country Club (especially the late
terey Bay. Bayonet is the superior course.            Mike Strantz's Shore Course), and The Pre‐
                                                      serve. The lesser known Preserve is not on
By far, the best bargain around is Pacific            the water, but it is spectacular nonetheless,
Grove Municipal Golf Links, about a 15‐               and it features some of the best bentgrass
minute drive from the resort on other (north)         greens you'll find.
side of the peninsula. This course, which the
locals call “PG Muni,” features eight holes on        If you are unable to gain access to these su‐
the beach or bluff and warrants its other nick‐       per‐exclusive clubs, you may have an easier
name, “the poor man's Pebble Beach.”                  time getting on Pasadera, Clint Eastwood's

     Golf Odyssey                             15                  The Insider’s Guide to the Best in Golf Travel
The Insider’s Guide to Taking a Pebble Beach Golf Vacation

                                                                             fabulous, and with its immersion in Pebble
Jack French

                                                                             Beach memorabilia, it's our favorite spot at
                                                                             Pebble Beach. Insider tip: ask for plastic cups
                                                                             and you can enjoy your drinks (and cigars) on
                                                                             the 18th tee box...or the illuminated putting
                                                                             green for some late‐night action.

                                                                             For a casual breakfast or lunch, the best spot is
                                                                             the Gallery Café (also at the Lodge), which over‐
                                                                             looks the first tee of Pebble Beach Golf Links.
              Many golfers who have played all over the world
              say Cypress Point is their all‐time favorite course.           The Inn at Spanish Bay has its highlights, too,
                                                                             most notably Roy's, where chef Roy Yamagu‐
              Tehama, or a true sleeper, Corral de Tierra,                   chi serves highly imaginative Asian fusion cui‐
              located near Quail Lodge.                                      sine and excellent sushi. The barbeque ribs
                                                                             and the blackened ahi are exquisite.

                                                                             We also like Pèppoli, the first United States
              Where to Dine (Onsite)
                                                                             establishment by noted Italian winemakers
                                                                             and restaurateurs, the Antinori’s. Featuring
              There are more than a dozen dining options                     authentic Tuscan country dishes and Floren‐
              among the three hotels and four‐and‐a‐half                     tine fare prepared in an open, big‐oven Italian
              golf courses operated by Pebble Beach Re‐                      kitchen, the restaurant combines a somewhat
              sorts, but just like its National Pro‐Am, there                modern look with Old World traditions.
              are some not‐to‐be‐missed highlights.
                                                                             Again, these are by no means the only nota‐
              Located in the Lodge at Pebble Beach, Club                     ble dining options on a Pebble Beach golf va‐
              XIX was our first choice for a "special dinner."               cation, but they are the cream of the crop if
              But resort brass felt the restaurant had “run                  you’re staying on‐property with Pebble Beach
              its course” and by 2012 replaced it with The                   Resorts.
              Bench, a far more casual but still
              “sophisticated” dining spot.
                                                                             Where to Dine (Offsite)
              So, you won’t see any more jackets and ties,
              but you will continue to gaze over the 18th
              hole at PBGL. Early reviews of the overall din‐                Almost every restaurant in quaint, nearby
              ing experience are very strong.                                town of Carmel‐by‐the‐Sea has merit. You can
                                                                             literally park your car, walk around a bit, and
              For something even more casual, but no less                    pick out a restaurant that looks good and
              memorable, nothing tops The Tap Room, the                      chances are it will be.
              epicenter of the Lodge. As mentioned earlier,
              the Tap Room serves one of the best burgers                    We especially like Casanova for its Northern
              anywhere (plus good steaks, seafood, and                       Italian‐French flair and excellent wine offer‐
              salads). The beer, wine and scotch selection is                ings from its hand‐dug wine cellar.

                   Golf Odyssey                                      16                  The Insider’s Guide to the Best in Golf Travel
The Insider’s Guide to Taking a Pebble Beach Golf Vacation

                                                                                                                        Post Ranch Inn
Le Auberge is an intimate 12‐table restaurant
where the dining experience centers on the
10‐course chef's tasting menu.

At sister restaurant Bouché, we've always
had great food, although we were taken
aback once when, after spending a small for‐
tune on food and wine for dinner, our party
of four was asked to leave because “our res‐
ervation was up.” After that incident, we've
had a tough time going back.

For breakfast in Carmel, Katy's Place remains
the gold standard.

You can also visit its excellent sister property
Wagon Wheel, which is literally next door to
Quail Lodge.

The rustic restaurant at the historic Mission
Ranch, a boutique inn owned by Clint East‐                  Few restaurants can compare to the combination
wood, is right near the Carmel mission. With                of food and views at Sierra Mar.
its piano bar, fireplace, great food, and star
power, this 1850s farmhouse dining room                    von Foerster, who developed his talents
oozes with character.                                      locally and in Colorado and Hawaii, brings
                                                           French, Asian and Mediterranean cooking
Rio Grill, a casual and very lively option, is a           styles and flavorings to regional ingredi‐
very popular hangout during the AT&T Cham‐                 ents.
pionship.
                                                           Lunch is often the way the public experi‐
One restaurant worth a drive is Sierra Mar,                ences Sierra Mar, as hotel guests are given
the award‐winning restaurant inside the                    all dinner seating slots except for 5:30,
equally acclaimed Post Ranch Inn.                          6:00 and 8:45. If that sounds like a tough
                                                           ticket for a table, imagine what it was like
Located in Big Sur, about 30‐40 minutes south              a short time ago when they didn’t take res‐
of Pebble Beach, Sierra Mar is wedged into                 ervations.
the cliffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean. The
view is unbelievable and airplanes actually fly            Our favorite "locals' secret" enjoys an
below you along the coast while you dine.                  unlikely location at the Monterey Penin‐
                                                           sula Airport. The casual Golden Tee is
The food, at one time rated by Zagat as the                known for excellent seafood (superb cala‐
best in the entire state, is some of the best              mari) and runway vistas.
we’ve sampled in the region. Chef Craig

     Golf Odyssey                                  17                  The Insider’s Guide to the Best in Golf Travel
The Insider’s Guide to Taking a Pebble Beach Golf Vacation

                                                                                  off with a visit to one of the local wineries is
Adventures by the Sea

                                                                                  also a nice touch.

                                                                                  If you prefer more “transactive” recreation on
                                                                                  a Pebble Beach golf vacation, the town of
                                                                                  Carmel‐by‐the‐Sea will make you feel as if
                                                                                  you’ve died and gone to Fifth Avenue.

                                                                                  This bohemian‐based beach town on Carmel
                                                                                  Bay occupies only one square mile and main‐
                                                                                  tains a resident population of less than 5,000,
                        The best of both worlds: kayaking in Stillwater           yet it boasts hundreds of stores (selling every‐
                        Cove amidst Pebble Beach’s famous, 7th hole.              thing from the chic to the antique) and 40 art
                                                                                  galleries, including the venerable Zantman
                        Off Course Activities                                     and Carmel Art Association.

                        It may seem counterintuitive not to play as               Despite the multitude of merchants, the town
                        much golf as humanly possible on a Pebble                 maintains a controlled and cozy atmosphere,
                        Beach golf vacation, but the Monterey Penin‐              thanks to a preservation‐minded planning
                        sula truly has much more to offer than world‐             board that keeps storefronts small, well‐
                        class smallball and it’s amazing what its off‐            maintained and from encroaching on its pro‐
                        course pursuits can do to smooth out your                 lific Monterey Pines.
                        mood and your golf swing.
                                                                                  So, whether you’re into aviation memorabilia,
                        For the active, you can gallop down the beach             Louis Vuitton leather goods or unique, hand‐
                        on a private horseback ride, paddle through               made crafts, you can stroll the streets looking
                        Stillwater Cove (while watching people play               for that perfect keepsake from your Pebble
                        Pebble’s famous par‐three, seventh hole) on               Beach golf vacation while enjoying the natu‐
                        a guided kayak tour, or, if you stay with Peb‐            ral surroundings at the same time.
                        ble Beach Resorts, pound the fuzz off the ball
                        on one of its Beach and Tennis Club’s 12
                                                                                                                                               Courtesy of CarrmelCalifornia.com
                        courts (two of which are clay).

                        For the inactive — we prefer relaxationally
                        proficient — you can lounge on the afore‐
                        mentioned beach, enjoy dozens of rubs,
                        scrubs and wraps at The Spa at Pebble Beach,
                        or take the famous 17‐mile Drive through the
                        Del Monte Forest, which winds around the
                        famous Lone Cypress tree and a slideshow of
                        pelicans, cormorants, sea lions, seals, and ot‐
                        ters (also viewable up‐close at the award‐
                        winning Monterey Bay Aquarium). Topping it                Nearby Carmel‐by‐the‐Sea is loaded with shops,
                                                                                  galleries, and restaurants.

                             Golf Odyssey                                 18                  The Insider’s Guide to the Best in Golf Travel
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