THE NEW YORK TIMES SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO - SPECIAL WATCH PORTFOLIO - The Watch Avenue
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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO
THE NEW YORK TIMES
S P E C I A L WAT C H P O R T F O L I O
USA EDITION Sunday, October 24, 2010
Breguet, the innovator. Invention of the Breguet balance spring, 1795 The balance spring gives time rhythm and sets its rate – the key to a watch’s precision. With its many patented innovations, the Tradition 7047PT with fusee tourbillon pushes the limits of precision time-keeping by combining the accuracy of the Breguet balance-spring’s terminal curve, conceived in 1795, and the anti-magnetic properties of silicon. History is still being written ... www.breguet.com/inventions
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W W W. B R E G U E T. C O M
The Ralph Lauren Stirrup Watch
18K ROSE GOLD LARGE MODEL. MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT. SELF-WINDING CHRONOGRAPH.
261 COMPONENTS, 41 JEWELS, 48-HOUR POWER RESERVE. SWISS MADE.
NEW YORK LONDON PARIS MILAN TOKYO GREENWICH BEVERLY HILLS CHICAGO DALLAS CANNES ST MORITZ GSTAAD MACAU SHANGHAI
RALPHLAURENWATCHES.COM
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES
WATCH
OUR COVER
SERGE LUTENS
PUBLISHER-FOUNDER CHRISTIAN LL AVALL-UBACH
MANAGING DIRECTOR ISABELLE BOUDRINGHIN
YOUR TIME
DEVELOPMENT MANAGER ERIC DUMATIN
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR GRÉGOIRE BAILLOD
WRITERS CAROL BESLER , CHRISTOPHE CACHER A ,
VINCENT DAVE AU, L AURIE K AHLE, D. MALCOLM L AKIN,
ROBERTA NA AS, CHRISTOPHE ROULET
S P E C I A L WAT C H P O R T F O L I O
TR ANSL ATION SANDR A PETCH
ART DIRECTION L A FONDERIE (GENEVA),
VINCENT FESSELET, YAN RUBIN USA EDITION SUNDAY, OCTOBER 24, 2010
PHOTOENGR AVING BOMBIE (GENEVA)
PRINTED IN ITALY BY MAESTRO
ˇ
This advertising supplement is produced by Editions
Temps International and did not involve the reporting or
editorial staff of The New York Times.
THE WATCH AVENUE - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 11
NOT JUST THE TIME - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 13
PATEK PHILIPPE - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 16
MAKING WATCHES FOR ETERNITY
TAG HEUER - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 18
Serge Lutens has, since the 1960s, realized PIONEERING TIME MEASUREMENT FOR 150 YEARS
a body of visual artwork that has become
a reference in the world of design, fashion ZENITH - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 20
and images in general. “ Between 1960 and EL PRIMERO 40 YEARS IN POLE POSITION
2010 I have staged, photographed and filmed
characters as versions of myself, ” he says. COMPLICATED WATCHES - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 25
Since the 1980s and in parallel to this activity, COLLECTING TIME - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 33
Serge Lutens developed a passion for perfume.
For decades now he creates new fragrances, JAEGER-LECOULTRE - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 37
initiating a true revolution in the world of ENDLESSLY INNOVATIVE
perfumes and recognized by the prestigious
Fragrance Foundation which honored him with WESTIME - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 38
several distinctions (FIFI Awards). Since 2000 A PASSION FOR WATCHES
his olfactory creations are grouped under the
label “ Parfums Serge Lutens ”. BREGUET - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 40
THE INSPIRED INVENTOR OF THE TOURBILLON
The cover photograph is part of a series
created by Serge Lutens in October 1989 A WATCH FOR ALL REASONS - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 43
as a tribute to “ Suprématisme ”.
RALPH LAUREN - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 47
OPENS ITS FIRST WATCH & JEWELRY SALON IN THE US
GIRL TIME - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 49
VACHERON CONSTANTIN - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 53
A LEGACY OF EXCELLENCE
HEAVY METAL- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 55
HUBLOT BIG BANG CLASSIC ALL BLACK.
THE SOPHISTICATED CHIC OF AN ALL-BL ACK VERSION
OF THE LEGENDARY BIG BANG. 45 MM POLISHED SEIKO - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 57
CER AMIC CASE, SATIN-FINISH CER AMIC BEZEL WITH MANUFACTURE OF THE RISING SUN
SIX TITANIUM SCREWS . MAT BL ACK MICROBL ASTED
DIAL, MICROBL ASTED FACET TED SKELETON HANDS .
SELF-WINDING MECHANICAL MOVEMENT. ADJUSTABLE OMEGA - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 58
RUBBER STR AP. WATER-RESISTANT TO 100 M. MASTERS OF INNOVATION AND ACCURACY
· · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · WATCH YOUR TIME USA 7
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For more information, contact our Concierge at 1 (877) 862-7555 or visit www.vacheron-constantin.com
3:>@7;3@=AB@797
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES
THEWATCHAVENUE.COM Maybe come back to where you began. It’s entirely up to you. You
are the guest of honor. The Watch Avenue exists to please you.
There are many ways to explore the Avenue : click to your heart’s
desire, use the search engine to locate a specific model, or put
You can stay in any State of the Union your trust in technology. “ The Watch Selector is an innovative
or travel in any country in the world, application that guides users towards the watches they are look-
ing for, ” explains James, one of the webmasters who worked on
an internet connection is all you need to
the project. “ Technology makes choosing a watch easier. ” Enter
enter The Watch Avenue, a 3D world
of watches, brought to life by virtual
reality and web technology. All the
luxury watches, all the new models just
released by major Swiss brands are
just a click away, along with photos,
films, information, reports, explanations.
Whatever time of night or day, you can
get any information you may need on
watches.
your criteria and the Selector will cross-reference them with the
hundreds of watches on the Avenue. It then proposes a shortlist of
models that correspond exactly to the type of watch you are look-
ing for. Once you have made your choice, the Selector displays
a full description and details of the nearest (real) store to where
you are. The Avenue is also a unique source of information. From
a highly technical question to a glamorous video, it’s all there.
The news-stand is your chance to catch up on online media,
including The Watch Daily where articles by specialist journalists
bring essential, real-time information on the latest brands, new
models and international events. The Watch Avenue also has
its own cinema, showing videos, commercials and reports from
the brands, and a bookstore selling specialist publications. The
Geneva School of Watchmaking has a virtual branch, where a
“ It’s an immersive experience, a new way to discover watches. teacher explains the secrets behind complications. The Fonda-
A cross between a website, a glossy magazine and brick-and- tion de la Haute Horlogerie is also present, with information on
mortar stores, ” notes Christian Clément, one of the inventors of watchmaking’s professions, and exploits past and present. The
the Avenue whose ultra-realistic backdrop is the kind of grand Watch Avenue speaks several languages, with versions in Man-
thoroughfare found in the chic shopping districts of Europe’s darin Chinese and Spanish soon to launch. The websites of some
capital cities. of the world’s most prestigious newspapers open on the site. You
The names above the doors are those of prestigious watch can also spot Avenue banners on the homepages of Le Monde
brands. One click reveals the spacious, elegant interiors, each (lemonde.fr), The New York Times (nytimes.com) and International
designed to reflect the personality of the individual brand. “ It was Herald Tribune (iht.com).
extremely important to us that visitors to the Vacheron Constantin
virtual store should be surrounded by the atmosphere of Vacheron The Watch Avenue is also on social networking sites, with a
Constantin, ” Chief Executive Juan-Carlos Torres, explains. Once Facebook page (http://www.facebook.com/TheWatchAvenue)
inside a store, choose any one of the displays, then a model. Zoom and a Twitter account (http://twitter.com/TheWatchAvenue). As
in to inspect each detail. View as many watches as you wish, or Pauline Lip, one of the site’s fans, remarks : “ Even when you’re
go into a different store and browse the collections there instead. not on the Avenue, the Avenue stays with you ! ”
· · · · · · · · · · · · · THEWATCHAVENUE.COM WATCH YOUR TIME USA 11T WO HEARTS. REAL PRECISION. DUOMÈTRE À QUANTIÈME LUNAIRE. Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 381. The Dual-Wing concept is a genuine horological revolution featuring two distinct mechanisms synchronised by a single regulating organ. The patented jumping stop seconds function enables time-setting to the nearest 1/6th of a second. YOU DESERVE A REAL WATCH. JAEGER-LECOULTRE BOUTIQUES Los Angeles • 9490B Brighton Way • Beverly Hills, CA 90210 • 310-734-0525 Boca Raton • 312 Plaza Real • Boca Raton, FL 33432 • 561-368-3866
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES
Hence the appeal of owning more than one watch to show
the different sides of your personality, adapt to life’s every
occasion and mood, and symbolize the milestones in your
life. Behind every watch lies a story. It brings to life memo-
ries of when and why you bought it, your feelings when you
Excuse me, do you have the time ? How long since someone chose it, or who gave it to you. Both given and received, a
asked you that ? It’s a question that’s going out of style, along watch is unforgettable. The watch your father gave you when
with Got a light ? Yet while smokers are a diminishing breed, you started college. Your graduation watch. The watch you
time is still very much with us… despite the impression we bought when you made your first million. The watch engraved
have less and less of it. Thankfully, the Earth still rotates on with your undying love.
its axis in 24 hours, and orbits the Sun in pretty much 365
days. After almost five centuries, the Gregorian calendar still We don’t need a watch to remind us of the time. We need a
dictates our years, schedules, statistics and celebrations. watch to remind us who we are. We need a watch to savor
There was a time when we got up and went to bed with the every passing moment. And to live each second to the full.
NOT JUST THE TIME
sun. It was enough to know what day it was. No one worried
about hours and minutes until the railway suddenly made
distances, and time, so much shorter. Now every minute of
the day is accounted for : never, since the dawn of time, have
we run to such tight schedules.
Why is it then that hardly anyone asks the time these days ?
Because time is everywhere. On your cell phone. On your
dashboard. On network news channels. On your computer
screen, and a million other places. We’re constantly informed
CYRIL BAYS – WWW.HEREANDNOW.CH
what time it is where we are, and even where we aren’t, in
time zones from New York to Hawaii.
When time is on every corner, why wear a watch ?
Because the watch I wear gives my time. Not anyone and
everyone’s time. My time. Not theoretical, universal time, but
a personal, intimate, almost secret time. Have you noticed
how some hours fly by faster for you than for the rest of the
world; when you’re with the people you love, for example. This
is something your watch will confirm, including after you’ve
turned off your cell phone to enjoy each moment undisturbed. The entire Watch Your Time team, in memory of
Your watch does more than its primary function of giving the Christian Llavall-Ubach, Publisher-Founder
time. It also says who you are, or at least hints strongly at your
personality. Outgoing or reserved, your watch reveals all. It
tells the world you’re extravagant, elegant, sporting, classic,
and much more.
· · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · EDITORIAL WATCH YOUR TIME USA 13A Q U E S T FO R D E PT H .
ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE DIVER
Designed and developed for deep-sea exploration, the Royal Oak Offshore Diver is equipped with
a dedicated divingscale on an inner rotating dial ring and meets the demanding criteria of the
Swiss watch industry diver’s watch norms. Water-resistant to 300 meters. Stainless steel case.
Proprietary selfwinding caliber 3120, all parts finely decorated; oscillating weight engraved with
the AP monogram as well as the Audemars and Piguet family crests.
AUDEMARS PIGUET BOUTIQUES
65 East 57th Street, New York, NY 888.214.6858
Bal Harbour Shops, Bal Harbour, FL 866.595.9700
www.audemarspiguet.comSPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK
K TIMES
“ PATEK PHILIPPE IS A LEGEND ” tion and precision of every movement, case
“ Patek Philippe is truly a legend, ” observed and dial, and making constant improvements
Geoffroy Ader, European Head of Watches to quality. We now have over 50 different
at Sotheby’s. “ It is one of the few brands to movement types and are always alert to
THIERRY STERN,
have made every known own complica- developments. We manufacture
new developm
PRESIDENT OF tion. Possibly it has also
so been our own parts, knowing that
PATEK PHILIPPE overwhelmed by collectors’
ctors’ our aannual production uses
enthusiasm. Think of the he 15 million components.
Patek Philippe Museum m Patek
P Philippe has
in Geneva, where the never taken the easy
first floor is given over option to increase
to watches by the production. We have
Manufacture, while always put the qual-
the second displays ity of our timepieces
timepieces from 1530 first. These are the
to 1839, the year Patek ek elements
e that make the
A simple reason lies behind a decade of Philippe was established.
hed. brand
bra unique. ”
impressive growth at Patek Philippe, now The message is clearly ly that
with the fourth generation of the Stern the firm is the direct descendant
escendant C. R.
family at its head : timepieces that will of these centuries of watchmaking. No one
THE NEW CH 29-535 PS CHRONOGR APH MOVEMENT
remain for generations to come, as record else can make such a claim. All of which has FOUND IN THE REF. 5170J MODEL INTRODUCES SIX
prices at auction remind us. conferred star status on the brand. ” PATENTED INNOVATIONS .
PATEK PHILIPPE : MAKING WATCHES
FOR ETERNITY
This is evidenced by the company’s growth. PATEK PHILIPPE NAUTILUS CHRONOGRAPH.
NEW CHRONOGR APH VARIATION OF THE MY THICAL
Some 500 staff moved into its new manu- CASUAL SPORTS WATCH NAUTILUS . SELF-WINDING
facturing facilities in Geneva in 1996 ; MECHANICAL MOVEMENT, COLUMN-WHEEL
more than 1,300 are employed there CHRONOGR APH WITH 60-MINUTE MONOCOUNTER
AND SWEEP SECONDS . DATE AT 3 O’CLOCK .
today. The Manufacture has launched 45.60X45.52 MM. 18-K ROSE GOLD CASE WITH
some ambitious projects over the past TR ANSPARENT CASEBACK . HAND-STITCHED
fifteen years, opening a new production ALLIGATOR STR AP WITH FOLD-OVER CL ASP IN 18-K
ROSE GOLD. WATER-RESISTANT TO 120 METERS .
center for cases and bracelets in 2003, a
new building for its case-making, polish-
ing and stone-setting partner companies
PATEK PHILIPPE 5951. PATEK PHILIPPE BREAKS A WORLD in 2009, and the transfer of its movements
RECORD BY CREATING THE THINNEST SPLIT-SECONDS
MONOPUSHER CHRONOGRAPH WITH A PERPETUAL
component-manufacturing activities to a
CALENDAR : 7.3 MM ONLY. COLUMN-WHEEL-CONTROLLED new site in 2010. This additional capacity
SPLIT-SECOND CHRONOGRAPH MOVEMENT, PERPETUAL means the brand can meet the strong
CALENDAR DISPLAYING DAY, MONTH, LEAP YEAR AND
A DAY/NIGHT INDICATION. 37 MM PLATINUM CASE WITH
demand for its complication watches.
TRANSPARENT CASEBACK. BLACK DIAL WITH 18-K WHITE
GOLD HOUR MARKERS AND LEAF-SHAPED HOUR ONE OF A KIND
AND MINUTE HANDS. HAND-STITCHED ALLIGATOR STRAP,
PLATINUM PIN BUCKLE.
Quality, innovation and, most importantly,
continuity are uppermost at Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe again stole the show at an as the Patek Philippe Seal, introduced in
auction held by Christie’s Geneva in May. 2009, shows. Its standards are among the
The Manufacture’s timepieces are, without most draconian in the profession. “ The
doubt, the most coveted among collectors. brand has never strayed from its course
Among the lots coming under the hammer, a which is to manufacture superlative time-
Patek Philippe Ref. 1527 gold chronograph pieces, ” declared Thierry Stern, who suc-
from 1943 went for $5.7 million, more than ceeded his father, Philippe, at the head of the
doubling its pre-auction estimate of $1.5 to firm. “ Each year we produce some 30,000
2.5 million. The sale set yet another record mechanical watches and some 10,000
for the Geneva Manufacture. quartz watches, respecting the sophistica-
16 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · ·Finally, a navigation system
without that annoying voice.
Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph. Ref. 3902: “Please make a U-turn if possible.” The instruments used by
sailors in the tradition of Vasco da Gama are less intrusive. One of the legends of navigation is the Portuguese Yacht
Club Chronograph. Its IWC-manufactured movement with flyback function and automatic double-pawl winding
guarantees precise landings. And even if you happen to head off in the wrong direction, no one’s going to start nagging
you. Mechanical IWC-manufactured movement | Flyback function | Automatic IWC double-pawl winding system | Date display |
Antireflective sapphire glass | Sapphire-glass back cover | Water-resistant 6 bar | 18 ct red gold | IWC. Engineered for men.SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK
K TIMES
these 150 years, the brand has stood out high-performance electric sports car at
JEAN-CHRISTOPHE BABIN, for technical innovations that now belong the forefront of automotive and horologi-
PRESIDENT AND
to the wider history of watchmaking. The cal design and technology. It accelerates
CEO OF TAG HEUER
oscillating pinion is the perfect example, faster than virtually any petrol supercar,
as CEO Jean-Christophe Babin explains : and is twice as energy-efficient as the
“ This invention was patented in 1887 and Toyota Prius. ” The Odyssey of Pioneers
is now a part of virtually every mechanical took in sixteen world cities, with exhibi-
chronograph. TAG Heuer has incorporated tions and events retracing TAG Heuer’s
it into its new Caliber 1887 which joins the history in each one. For the US leg of the
Carrera line. ” tour, the Roadster pulled up in Los Ange-
les (July 27-31), Miami (August 17-21)
A BRIEF HISTORY OF TAG HEUER TIME and New York (August 31-September 5).
TAG Heuer has never ceased to break new The last word goes to Jean-Christophe
ground in this specialty field of chrono- Babin : “ With The Odyssey of Pioneers,
graphs. In 1911, it launched the legendary two avant-garde brands share their values
Time of Trip, the first “ dashboard chrono- of innovation, performance, precision and
graph ” for cars and aircraft. This was fol- energy-efficient luxury. ”
lowed in 1916 by the Mikrograph, the first E. D.
TAG HEUER :
PIONEERING TIME MEASUREMENT
FOR 150 YEARS
TAG Heuer has never ceased to innovate
throughout its century and a half exist-
ence. This year the brand is celebrating
its mastery of time with The Odyssey of 1/100th of a second stopwatch. In 1966, the
Pioneers. Microtimer became the first portable time-
piece accurate to 1/1,000th of a second.
The year 2010 will be remembered as a The Caliber 360 Concept Chronograph,
milestone in TAG Heuer’s history. Estab- unveiled in 2005, was the first mechani-
lished by Edouard Heuer in 1860, in the cal wrist chronograph to measure time to
Swiss Jura mountains, the company is cel- 1/100th of a second. Two years later, the
ebrating a century and a half of pioneering brand launched the Link Caliber S, the first
exploits in the measurement of time. During electro-mechanical chronograph, again
with 1/100 th of a second precision. The
list of innovations continues with concept
watches, such as the V4 and its belt-driven
transmission, and the Pendulum which, in
a revolutionary development, replaces the TAG HEUER GRAND CARRERA CALIBER 36 RS 2 CALIPER
balance spring with magnetic force. CHRONOGRAPH. WINNER OF THE 2008 GENEVA
WATCHMAKING GR AND PRIX IN THE SPORTS CATEGORY,
THIS SELF-WINDING CHRONOGR APH IS THE ONLY
THE ODYSSEY OF PIONEERS MODEL CAPABLE OF ME ASURING TENTHS OF A SECOND
With inventions such as these to its credit, AND DISPL AYING THEM BY ME ANS OF ITS ROTATING
the TAG Heuer name has become syn- FL ANGE. ST YLISH TITANIUM CARBIDE-COATED 43 MM
CASE. CALIBER 36 RS WITH POWER RESERVE AND T WO
onymous with speed and sport. Continu- ROTATING SYSTEMS IN “ BL ACK GOLD ” INDICATING
ing in this vein, the brand has struck up a THE CHRONOGR APH MINUTES AT 3 O’CLOCK AND
partnership with Tesla Motors, a leader in CHRONOGR APH HOURS AT 6 O’CLOCK. LINE AR SECONDS
AT 9 O’CLOCK. NEW TITANIUM CARBIDE AND RUBBER
TAG HEUER MONACO V4. THE UNIQUE BELT-DRIVEN SELF-
clean electric sports cars. As the Swiss STR AP WITH FOLDING CL ASP.
WINDING MECHANICAL MOVEMENT BUILDS ON ENGINE watchmaker celebrates its 150 th anniver-
TECHNOLOGY. THE OPEN DIAL REVE ALS THE MECHANISM
sary year, the two partners have embarked
WITH HAND-FINISHED BRIDGES . BLUE FACET TED HANDS,
SMALL SECONDS AT 4 O’CLOCK. EXCLUSIVE TUNGSTEN
on a major venture : The Odyssey of Pio-
LINE AR OSCILL ATING WEIGHT CONNECTED TO T WO PAIRS neers, or a 23,000 mile round-the-world
OF COUPLED BARRELS WITH DIFFERENTIAL LINK.
tour between March and October by the
40.5 MM SQUARE PL ATINUM CASE. WATER-RESISTANT
TO 50 M. ALLIGATOR STR AP WITH BLUE TOP STITCHING.
TAG Heuer Tesla Roadster. Says Jean-
LIMITED EDITION OF 150. Christophe Babin : “ This is a one-off,
18 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · ·Entirely invented and manufactured in-house
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K TIMES
History presents a strong case for the
brand’s qualities of precision and reliability,
JEAN-FRÉDÉRIC DUFOUR,
two of the strengths behind its success.
CEO OF ZENITH “ Zenith has done everything to ensure
that aficionados are first to benefit from
its success. ” The 600,000 El Primeros
sold in 40 years are living proof of the
company’s decades-long production in
Fine Watchmaking.
In Chinese pronunciation, the Zenith name
conveys values of reliability, truth and pre-
ZENITH EL PRIMERO 1/10 TH SECOND CHRONOGRAPH.
cision. Knowing this, the brand can but
THIS MAJOR NEW MODEL FROM ZENITH INCORPOR ATES
make every endeavor to ensure its custom- THE LEGENDARY EL PRIMERO MOVEMENT, ONE OF
ers take pride in their purchase. “ A Zenith THE FIRST TO ME ASURE 1/10 TH OF A SECOND. THE
CENTR AL CHRONOGR APH HAND SWEEPS THE DIAL
watch is a real watch. It’s a little piece of
IN 10 SECONDS INSTE AD OF THE USUAL SIXT Y. 42 MM
heritage. My ambition is to make people CASE IN STEEL OR ROSE GOLD WITH SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL
happy by offering them a high precision BACK . NEW SELF-WINDING MECHANICAL MOVEMENT.
SMALL SECONDS AT 9 O’CLOCK , DATE AT 6 O’CLOCK .
instrument ”, says Jean-Frédéric Dufour.
CHRONOGR APH 60-MINUTE COUNTER AT 6 O’CLOCK ,
His vision for the company is to “ make 60-SECOND COUNTER AT 3 O’CLOCK. ALLIGATOR STR AP
Zenith the brand that opens the door to WITH RUBBER LINING. WATER-RESISTANT TO 100 M.
ZENITH : EL PRIMERO 40 YEARS
IN POLE POSITION
The new Chief Executive of Zenith since
June 3 rd 2009, Jean-Frédéric Dufour
has taken time to soak up the Manufac-
ture’s philosophy before expressing his manufacture timepieces. ” This explains why for themselves. ” As a man who believes in
vision. “ I wanted to gain a true under- the firm, despite being one of watchmaking’s the power of fundamentals, Jean-Frédéric
standing of the brand, and so I looked most prestigious names, runs a tight pricing Dufour advocates simple solutions. Hence
at the intangible facts that underlie the policy without diminishing the emotional El Primero and Elite movements feature in
quality of its production. I spent a long spark that aficionados are searching for. the new Captain collection : the first, in its
time studying the archives so that I could Both mainstays in their category, the day, to successfully combine precision with
grasp its core substance. My research El Primero and Elite calibers carry the elegance. “ My wish in relaunching our icons
led me to the conclusion that here is a emotional weight that comes with being part, is to show that Zenith belongs heart and
brand with an unimagined and very much in many people’s view, of horological history. soul to Fine Watchmaking. ” Jean-Frédéric
under-exploited force. ” Zenith has indeed The new collection of timepieces unveiled Dufour has listened to the grass roots and is
developed 500 movements in almost a from January 2010 confirms that Jean- imposing Zenith as a name that immediately
century and a half, and won close to 1,500 Frédéric Dufour’s strategic direction is well- springs to mind. He is doing this by reviving
first prizes in chronometry trials, including grounded. “ During the speculative bubble, the Manufacture’s history and reawakening
a majority of records in the series watch watch prices increased by an unjustified its essential values. “ Zenith has a rich past.
category, meaning models that will be amount. It was time to come back down to Modern precision timekeeping originated
offered to customers. earth and offer customers very beautiful, with the brand, whose extraordinary
impeccably precise timekeeping instruments heritage is a combination of performance
at an appropriate price. The results speak and beauty. With a heritage like this, we
ZENITH MANUFACTURE, LE LOCLE, 1908
should go far and for a long time. ”
V. D.
ZENITH ELITE 681 ULTRA THIN. AT JUST 7.6 MM HIGH, THIS CLASSIC
WATCH EMBODIES THE ELEGANCE AND EXPERTISE OF ZENITH.
40 MM CASE IN 18-K ROSE GOLD OR STEEL WITH SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL
BACK SHOWING THE ELITE SELF-WINDING MECHANICAL MOVEMENT.
TUNGSTEN OSCILLATING WEIGHT WITH CÔTES DE GENÈVE
DECORATION. SILVERED DIAL, DAUPHINE HANDS, FACETTED HOUR
MARKERS, SMALL SECONDS AT 9 O’CLOCK. ALLIGATOR STRAP WITH
RUBBER LINING AND PIN BUCKLE. WATER-RESISTANT TO 50 M.
20 WATCH YOUR TIME USA FOCUS · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · ·AN EVENT CREATED BY EDITIONS TEMPS INTERNATIONAL editions@temps-international.com
T H E A R T O F F U S I O N
F1 FORMULA 1 logo, F1 logo, Formula 1, F1, GRAND PRIX and related marks are trade marks of Formula One Licensing BV, a Formula One group company. All rights reserved.
F1 KING POWER
TM
T H E O F F I C I A L W AT C H O F F O R M U L A 1 T M
Formula 1™, the world’s most technologically advanced sport and
the pinnacle of motor racing. Hublot is proud to present the F1™ King
Power, our first vision for the Official Watch of Formula 1™ series,
which embodies the very essence of this legendary sport. Luxury,
a dedication to perfection, and exotic, super performing materials
such as ceramic, carbon, titanium and rubber are expertly fused
using the most advanced, cutting edge manufacturing techniques.
In Formula 1™ we have found a brand with which we truly feel at
home. We think the same and we are the same. The F1™ King Power
is the first incarnation of the ultimate realisation of the Art of Fusion.
Hublot TV on: www.hublot.comSPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES
IWC PORTUGUESE GRANDE COMPLICATION.
THE NEW FL AGSHIP OF THE MOST CELEBR ATED WATCH FAMILY
FROM IWC, FE ATURING A PERPETUAL CALENDAR MECHANICALLY
PROGR AMMED UNTIL 2499 AS WELL AS A PERPETUAL MOON PHASE
DISPL AY, CHRONOGR APH AND MINUTE REPE ATER. 45 MM 18-K RED
GOLD CASE. SELF-WINDING MECHANICAL MOVEMENT. SILVER-
PL ATED DIAL. DARK BROWN ALLIGATOR STR AP STITCHED WITH 18-K
RED GOLD THREAD. LIMITED TO 50 PIECES PER YEAR. AVAILABLE AT ALL
IWC BOUTIQUES IN NORTH AMERICA (BEVERLY HILLS - 310-734-0520 /
LAS VEGAS - 702-650-0817) AND WEMPE NEW YORK.
24 WATCH YOUR TIME USA RUBRIQUE · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · ·SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES
COMPLICATED
WATCHES SET –o–––- Roberta Naas
SINGULAR TRENDS
In a centuries-old craft it isn’t always While some functions built into these machines may seem
superfluous, complicated timepieces are the ultimate expres-
easy to invent something new –
sion of what the watchmaker, engineer and artisan can
especially when the craft is an object accomplish with gears, wheels, springs and plates. Essen-
less than two inches in diameter. In tially, a complicated watch is a mechanical “ computer ” that
not only keeps time, but also uses hundreds of other tiny
luxury watchmaking, however, whose
parts within the movement to operate secondary and tertiary
roots are 500 years deep, the finest tasks, like logging moon phases or audibly chiming the time
master watchmakers spend years with miniature hammers and gongs. Like the most esteemed
painting, these coveted devices often take years to develop
tirelessly toiling with miniscule pieces
and months to build just one.
to fit inside watches in new and CHOPARD L.U.C TOURBILLON
different ways to qualify as NINE MONTHS IN THE MAKING
ENGINE ONE. INSPIRED BY
THE WORLD OF AUTOMOBILES .
“ We develop our timepieces three or four years in
inventions and world firsts. RECTANGUL AR TITANIUM CASE
advance of their unveiling, ” says Larry Pettinelli, Presi- (35.4X44.4 MM). SIXT Y-HOUR
POWER-RESERVE INDICATOR
dent of Patek Philippe USA, “ In some instances it SHAPED LIKE A PETROL GAUGE
ZENITH EL PRIMERO TOURBILLON. NEW TOURBILLON
takes nine months from the launch of a watch to AT 12 O’CLOCK. HAND-WOUND
CHRONOGR APH WITH A UNIQUE AND PATENTED
DATE AROUND THE TOURBILLON CARRIAGE.
its delivery, because it takes that long to build MANUFACTURE MECHANICAL
TOURBILLON MOVEMENT,
HIGH FREQUENCY EL PRIMERO MECHANICAL one. ” To date, the most valued complications FASHIONED LIKE AN ENGINE
CHRONOGR APH MOVEMENT. 44 MM CASE
in a watch include minute repeaters that BLOCK AND MOUNTED ON SHOCK
IN 18-K RED GOLD, AVAIL ABLE IN STEEL.
TR ANSPARENT SAPPHIRE CASEBACK .
chime the time on a series of gongs, tour- ABSORBERS . WATER-RESISTANT
TO 50 M. LIMITED EDITION OF
ALLIGATOR STR AP LINED WITH A RUBBER billions that house a special escapement 150 FOR THE 150 TH ANNIVERSARY
PROTECTION, TRIPLE FOLDING BUCKLE.
to compensate for errors in timing due to OF THE BR AND.
gravity’s effects on the movement, and
The world’s most prized timepieces are “ equations of time ” that display
those with complex movements that contain the difference between an average
up to 600 or 700 pieces. Called “ complicated ” day and a true solar day. There are
watches, these masterpieces are among the high- also Grande Complications housing three
est feats – created by craftsmen who put their or more of these elite complexities. Gener-
hearts into their making. Designed as heirloom ally, watches in this category fetch well over
pieces, complicated watches are some of the most $100,000 retail because of the hundreds
intriguing – and often expensive – timepieces. of parts and hundreds of hours of hand-
Offering functions beyond simple time telling, they are often finishing and assembling required. The tier of com-
chock-full of such features to measure split seconds or track plicated watches below that retails in the $25,000
dates, years – even leap years – for centuries to come. This to $100,000 price range. It includes perpetual cal-
fascinating arena of watchmaking – where timepieces sell endars with day, date, leap year and moonphase
for hundreds of thousands of dollars – is commanding an indications, and chronograph rattrapantes that can
ever increasing amount of attention from watch collectors time multiple events simultaneously, including lap HUBLOT GOLD KING POWER GMT. 48 MM KING POWER
and enthusiasts around the world. Celebrities, politicians times. “ Complications have always been important CASE IN KING GOLD, AN INNOVATIVE GOLD ALLOY
WITH 5% PL ATINUM. MICROBL ASTED BL ACK CER AMIC
and businessmen and women with an interest in top-quality because they are the highest achievement in the BEZEL WITH MOLDED BL ACK RUBBER AND SIX BL ACK
mechanics are paying closer attention to the limited-edition watchmaking art, ” says Jean-Claude Biver, CEO PVD TITANIUM SCREWS . HAND-WOUND TOURBILLON
and one-of-a-kind pieces being unveiled by the world’s best of Hublot. “ They remain eternal, despite economic MOVEMENT, 90-HOUR POWER RESERVE. SECOND TIME
ZONE IN A SUBDIAL AT 1 O’CLOCK . RETROGR ADE DATE
brands – and often putting themselves on months-long wait- crises or trends. Which complications are in demand AT 9 O’CLOCK . ARTICUL ATED BL ACK RUBBER STR AP.
ing lists to buy these complicated watches. may vary, but they always prevail. ” · ⁄· WATER-RESISTANT TO 100 M. LIMITED EDITION OF 28.
· · · · · · · · · · · · · COMPLICATED WATCHES WATCH YOUR TIME USA 25SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES
GREUBEL FORSEY DOUBLE TOURBILLON TECHNIQUE. ROBERT GREUBEL AND STEPHEN FORSEY SIGN
A HOROLOGICAL MASTERPIECE THAT BLENDS HIGH LEVEL TECHNICAL MASTERY WITH INCREDIBLE
AESTHETIC FINISHING. THE MOVEMENT FEATURES THE PROPRIETARY DOUBLE TOURBILLON
30° ESCAPEMENT TO WHICH HAVE BEEN ADDED FOUR FAST-ROTATING CO-AXIAL BARRELS
PROVIDI
PROVIDING A 120 HOUR POWER RESERVE. HAND-WOUND MECHANICAL MOVEMENT. 47.5 MM
DIAMET
DIAMETER 18-K RED GOLD CASE WITH TRANSPARENT BACK. HOUR AND MINUTE HANDS IN
REDEFINING
GOLD. HAND-STITCHED ALLIGATOR STRAP WITH 18-K GOLD FOLDING BUCKLE. COMPLICATION
As watchmaking has
At this extremely high-end of watchmaking, complicated moved into the 21st cen-
timepieces are handmade in very limited numbers, often, as
timepie tury, it has witnessed a
one-of-a-kind pieces. Collectors can find themselves on
one- repositioning and rethinking
waiting
wa lists for certain types of complications for months, of what constitutes a compli-
even
ev years, and sometimes still not be able to purchase cation, and in some instances new
the desired watch. While years ago, the trend was to categories may be dawning. One is watch
pack
pa as many complications as possible into a watch, movements utilizing silicium (silicon) parts. Indeed, silicium may
the turn of the new millennium witnessed the tourbillon well revolutionize the complicated watch industry. The material
craze
craz emerging strong. Indeed, race is on amongst the is stronger and makes a movement almost lubricant-free,
world’s
world finest watchmakers to push the envelope of creativ- reducing required service or maintenance. Some of the savvi-
ity around
arou this particular complication. The tourbillon is one est brands (including Ulysse Nardin, Patek Philippe, Breguet)
of the m most revered and beautiful watchmaking accomplish- are utilizing silicium in their calibers. Ulysse Nardin was in the
ments. T The watch typically features an aperture on the dial just vanguard here as the first to use silicium in watches in 2000,
so one canc view the constantly rotating tourbillon cage – its experimenting with the material in a host of calibers.
mesmerizing
mesmer motion almost a dance in flight. “ The use of silicon and high-frequency movements will
AUDEMARS PIGUET JULES AUDEMARS definitely become important factors in the future develop-
CHRONOMETER. THIS HIGH-PRECISION WATCH
TOURBILLON CRAZE ments of sophisticated mechanical movements since they
FE ATURES THE REVOLUTIONARY AUDEMARS
PIGUET ESCAPEMENT. PRESENTED IN 2006, To this day, watchmakers vie to create the lightest-weight push back the physical limits for high-performance in terms
IT OPER ATES LUBRICANT-FREE, ENSURES tourbillon, the thinnest tourbillon, flying tourbillons, double, of accuracy, anti-magnetism and wear and reduce servic-
EXCELLENT EFFICIENCY, AND SUPERIOR
triple and quadruple tourbillons – all in an effort to create ing, ” says Rodolphe Schulthess, Breguet’s vice president
SHOCK-RESISTANCE. SPECTACUL AR
THREE-DIMENSIONAL MOVEMENT DESIGN, more beautiful, more accurate and more exciting tourbillon of sales. Of nine introductions unveiled earlier this year, he
DECOR ATED AND FINISHED BY HAND timepieces. So advanced and hybrid have the permutations notes, one of the most important is the Breguet Tradition
ACCORDING TO THE GR AND WATCHMAKING
and variations of tourbillon timepieces become that some Fusee Tourbillon because it houses a patented Breguet
TR ADITION. ULTR A-HIGH FREQUENCY
(43,200 VPH). HAND-WOUND MOVEMENT, brands have even developed a method to move the tourbillon silicon balance spring and patented titanium carriage and
56-HOUR POWER RESERVE. EXTR A L ARGE escapement outside of the watch movement itself and place balance wheel. Breguet introduced its first wristwatches
46 MM CASE IN PL ATINUM 950 WITH SAPPHIRE
it as a rotating module on the watch dial, or even on the watch with silicon balance spring and escapements in 2006 and
CRYSTAL CASEBACK . WHITE ENAMEL DIAL.
BL ACK ALLIGATOR STR AP. case side. The Tourbillon Relatif from Piaget, for instance, has worked with this material ever since. While demand for
separates the tourbillon carriage from the rest of the move- tourbillons and high-tech materials remains strong, as the
ment and suspends it on the minute hand. Cartier this year economy has shifted, so has what is demanded. Calls now
launched the Rotonde Astrotourbillon, whose manual winding are for specialty pieces that house singular complications,
Caliber was five years in the making. The tourbillon carriage as they offer more “ affordable ” price points.
rotates around the dial and is positioned above the movement
instead of integrated into it, placed between two dial plates SINGLE COMPLICATIONS
for striking visual effect. Montblanc’s newest ExoTourbillon “ The trend now is toward single complications, ” says Ben-
Chronographe reconfigures the design, as well. Its balance is oit de Clerck, President of IWC North America. “ People
separated from the cage and oscillates outside on a higher want an annual calendar, a perpetual calendar, a rattra-
level (hence the name Exo). pante, or a watch with just one or two complications in it ;
something classical in look. ” IWC, which builds Grande
LIMITED SUPPLY Complications, minute repeaters and tourbillons, this year,
Still, the development and the production of these tourbil- offers a host of annual and perpetual calendars and chro-
lons is extremely limited. According to Biver, the entire Swiss nograph rattrapantes. · ⁄ ·
URWERK UR-202 TURBINE AUTOMATIC watch industry produced 4,000 to 5,000
WHITE GOLD. THE ALREADY VERY
tourbillons for the world last year – more
INVENTIVE URWERK WATCH NOW FEATURES
A WINDING SYSTEM REGULATED BY AIR.
than was produced in 400 years – and that
THIS WAY OF USING FLUID DYNAMICS IN A is still a minuscule part of the world’s watch
WRIST WATCH IS A WORLD PREMIERE. THE
production and consumption. So tourbillions
MOVEMENT FEATURES THE PROPRIETARY
REVOLVING SATELLITE COMPLICATION
remain a coveted complication. Collectors OMEGA SKELETONIZED TOURBILLON
WITH TELESCOPIC MINUTES HANDS, MOON keep demanding more and Swiss brands CO-AXIAL PLATINUM. UNIQUE CENTR AL
TOURBILLON MECHANISM WITH
PHASE AND DAY/NIGHT INDICATORS. IT
struggle to comply. In a major move for its TITANIUM ROTATING CAGE. SELF-
IS HOUSED IN A 45.6X43.5X15 MM MICRO
SANDBLASTED AND SATIN FINISHED 18-K
future, Hublot recently purchased BNB, a WINDING SKELETONISED MOVEMENT
WHITE GOLD CASE. THE DIAL IS MADE IN highly regarded movement manufacturer. WITH CO-A XIAL ESCAPEMENT AND
ROTOR WITH SAPPHIRE PL ATE. COSC
ARCAP P40 AND HAS A SUPERLUMINOVA
Since 2006, BNB had been building the CERTIFICATION. HANDS ETCHED
TREATMENT ON THE HOUR AND MINUTE
MARKERS. SELF-WINDING MECHANICAL
Hublot tourbillons exclusively, but thanks to ON SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL DISCS AND
MOVEMENT CALIBER UR 7.02. this move, Hublot is producing its own tourbil- CONNECTED TO THE MOVEMENT AT
THEIR PERIPHERY. PL ATINUM CASE.
lon watches (as well as its minute repeaters). BL ACK ALLIGATOR STR AP. LIMITED
EDITION OF 18.
26 WATCH YOUR TIME USA COMPLICATED WATCHES · · · · · · · · · · · · ·SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES
SEIKO PREMIER KINETIC PERPETUAL. FREDERIQUE CONSTANT MAXIME HEART
Its Portuguese Perpetual Calendar is an exceptional work PERPETUAL CALENDAR THAT REQUIRES BEAT MOON & DATE. FE ATURING THE ICONIC
with displays for the date, day, month, year in four digits NO ADJUSTING UNTIL 2100, L ARGE DATE HE ART BE AT APERTURE AT 12 O’CLOCK , THIS
and perpetual moon phase. One model (Ref. 5021) dis- AND SECOND TIME ZONE. THE KINETIC MODEL IS ENDOWED WITH A MOON PHASE
CALIBER 7D56 IS WOUND BY THE INDICATOR AND A DATE POINTER. SELF-WIND-
plays the number of days until the next full moon and MOVEMENT OF THE BODY. MONTH ING CALIBER. 42 MM CASE IN STEEL WITH
the moon’s course, and features mirror images of the AND LE AP YE AR AT 6 O’CLOCK , 24-HOUR PINK GOLD POLISHED BEZEL. GUILLOCHÉ
moon in the northern and southern hemispheres. It INDICATOR AT 4 O’CLOCK. LE ATHER DIAL COMBINING SUNR AY PAT TERN IN THE
STR AP WITH TRIPLE FOLDING BUCKLE. CENTER AND “ CLOU DE PARIS ” DECOR ATION.
is so accurate that it deviates from the moon’s actual WATER-RESISTANT TO 100 M. BROWN ALLIGATOR STR AP.
progress by just 12 seconds in one lunar period.
IMPROVING FUNCTIONALITY AND READABILITY THE CHRONOGRAPH REVISITED
“ Single complications are very important to us, ” says Gaetan At Patek Philippe this year, says
Guillosson, A. Lange & Söhne US Brand President. “ We try to Pettinelli, the brand unveiled more
make complications that not only represent watchmaking art, simple complications in Basel,
but also improve the functionality and readability of the watch, including chronographs and
which is a complication in itself. ” A. Lange & Söhne has achieved annual calendars, than in the past
this in multiple ways, including developing its own hairspring, and eight years at the fair. Among
launching its own annual calendar with a mechanical digital the launches were a ladies chro-
readout that is exceptionally easy to read. This nograph and the much-awaited men’s chronograph
year, in its Homage to “ F.A. Lange Collection, ” (Ref. 5170), a manually wound caliber with classic
the brand also unveiled its sophisticated 1815 column wheel chronograph developed and crafted
Moonphase watch in its unique honey gold. It in the brand’s workshops. The timepiece holds six
is so precise that it takes 1,058 years for its patents and offers a traditional look inspired by 1950s
slight error in moonphase tracking to add chronographs with a sweep seconds hand and 30-min-
up to a deviation of one day relative to ute counter. Audemars Piguet this year unveiled the new
the actual lunar cycle. Only 256 pieces ChronoAP, housing the high-tech three-dimensional Aude-
will be built. mars Piguet escapement first released in 2006. The move-
ment beats twice as fast as most movements (at an excep-
A LANGE & SÖHNE 1815 MOONPHASES. PERFECT
ILLUSTRATION OF THE GERMAN MANUFACTURE’S
tional 43,200 vibrations per hour) and operates lubricant
PHILOSOPHY : MAKING STATE-OF-THE-ART TIMEPIECES free. According to Francois Henry Bennahmias, president
COMBINING EXTREME PRECISION AND READABILITY. INDEED,
and CEO of Audemars Piguet North America, “ In addition
IT SHOULD TAKE MORE THAN A 1,000 YEARS FOR THE MOON
PHASE TO SHOW AN ERROR SUPERIOR TO ONE DAY. MANUALLY
to traditional complications, today we must focus on offer-
WOUND MECHANICAL L943.2 CALIBER, 45-HOUR POWER ing efficiency, shock resistance, and complex watches that
RESERVE. WITH 37.4 MM HONEY-COLORED 18-K GOLD CASE WITH
withstand normal wear and tear and offer real ease of use.
A TRANSPARENT BACK. THE DIAL AND THE LUNAR DISC ARE
ALSO IN SOLID GOLD. HAND-STITCHED ALLIGATOR STRAP WITH
The consumer wants to be sure the watch they buy today will
work in the year 2020 or 2030. ”
18-K GOLD PRONG BUCKLE. LIMITED EDITION OF 265.
ˇ
“ Our customers are everywhere so we have to declared, pointing out that Miller was world cham-
be everywhere too. Today’s customer has many pion in all disciplines in 2005 and 2008.
different passions. Wherever they go, they have to When Hublot heard that Miller intended continuing HUBLOT BODE BANG.
BIG BANG 44.5 MM CASE
see the Hublot name to feel that the brand is part his career after Vancouver, it immediately renewed
IN SANDBL ASTED BL ACK
of their world, ” explained Jean-Claude Biver, CEO CER AMIC. MECHANICAL SELF-
of Hublot, when asked about the brand’s mul- WINDING CHRONOGR APH
MOVEMENT. DATE AT 4H30.
tiple partnerships, including high-profile alliances
ADJUSTABLE BL ACK RUBBER
with FIFA for STR AP WITH CL ASP IN BL ACK
the South Africa PVD STEEL. LIMITED TO
HUBLOT and Brazil World 250 NUMBERED PIECES .
Cups, and with
AND BODE MILLER Formula 1. One
of the faces of
JOIN FORCES the brand is the
skier Bode Miller, black ceramic, with the skier’s signature embla-
the Bad Boy of the slopes who brought home BODE MILLER AND CELEBRIT Y FRIENDS PARTICIPATED IN HUBLOT zoned across the white dial. The link between Bode
“ TENNIS FUSION ” CHALLENGE TO SUPPORT HARLEM JUNIOR TENNIS
three medals from the Vancouver 2010 Winter AND EDUCATION PROGR AM.
Miller and Jean-Claude Biver, and the values they
Olympics, claiming gold in the Super Combined, share, have inspired Hublot to donate a portion of
silver in the Super-G and bronze in the Men’s its support of the champion. The brand has also cre- sales of the watch to the Turtle Ridge Foundation,
Downhill. “ Hublot is proud to have as its ambas- ated a watch in his name – the Bode Bang launched set up by Bode Miller and his family in 2005 to
sador such a talented and exceptional sportsman in New York in December 2009 – a Big Bang chro- enable young people to take part in sports that
who is capable of truly great things, ” the brand nograph whose case and bezel are in microblasted wouldn’t otherwise be available to them.
28 WATCH YOUR TIME USA COMPLICATED WATCHES · · · · · · · · · · · · ·SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES
AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK CHRONOGRAPH 1362.
A STRONG DESIGN FOR A WATCH IN WHICH SEVER AL ELEMENTS
CONTR AST ONE WITH ANOTHER : PINK CASE, GR AY SCREWS,
CRE AM COLOR DIAL WITH BL ACK AND WHITE SUB-DIALS . THE
CASE ALSO ALTERNATES VERTICALLY BRUSHED AND MIRROR
POLISHED SURFACES . SELF-WINDING MECHANICAL MOVEMENT
CALIBER 2385 WITH CHRONOGR APH, SMALL SECOND AND DATE
FUNCTIONS . 40-HOUR POWER RESERVE. 39 MM X 49.5 MM 18-K
PINK GOLD CASE. ALLIGATOR STR AP WITH PINK GOLD FOLDING
CL ASP. WATER-RESISTANT TO 50 METERS .
32 WATCH YOUR TIME USA EASTERN · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · ·SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES
COLLECTING –o–––- Carol Besler
TIME
What makes a watch collector’s
heart beat faster than a 30-second
tourbillon ? A fresh crop of IWC TOURBILLON MYSTÈRE IWC PORTUGUESE TOURBILLON MYSTÈRE
special-edition watches to add to The Mystère’s tourbillon cage is positioned at 12 o’clock instead
RETROGRADE. FLYING TOURBILLON
ESCAPEMENT SITUATED AT 12 O’CLOCK
his must-have list. of the conventional 6 o’clock spot, with the cage and gold bal- AND LARGE RETROGRADE DATE INDICATOR
ance brilliantly contrasting against a blackened background AT 7H30. HAND-WOUND MECHANICAL
MOVEMENT WITH 7-DAY POWER RESERVE.
plate. A flyback date indicator adds to the dance on the dial RUTHENIUM BLACK DIAL WITH 44.2 MM
For watch lovers, exploring the annual Swiss watch fairs is created by the oscillating balance inside the tourbillon cage. As PLATINUM CASE WITH SEE-THROUGH
the ultimate treasure hunt, where the prize is a first glimpse a flying tourbillon, the escapement is cantilevered off a single SAPPHIRE-GLASS BACK. ALLIGATOR STRAP.
LIMITED EDITION OF 250.
of the latest introductions destined to become the next col- bridge, which, together with the mirrored ring around the open-
lectors’ pieces. The following top-10 list of treasures saves ing, creates the illusion that the cage is spinning in mid-air. IWC
you the trouble of the hunt. Each of these new introductions will make 250 pieces in platinum and 500 pieces in pink gold.
is special for its own reason (or reasons) : either it represents
a new development in an iconic collection, a new combina- PANERAI LUMINOR TOURBILLON EQUATION OF TIME
tion of complications in a particular model, a totally unique The equation of time function usually includes a miniature
watchmaking invention, or it houses a unique variation on a sky view, either on the dial or caseback. In keeping with
high complication. It will be difficult to choose just one. Panerai’s characteristically minimalist dial design, the
sky view is engraved on the caseback of this new watch,
CARTIER ASTRO TOURBILLON ROTONDE rather than the dial. In fact, the only indication to signal
The cage of this tourbillon rotates not only on its axis, but that this watch is also a tourbillon is the tiny dot that trav-
around the dial. It is attached to the center seconds hand and els around the seconds subdial, driven by the tourbillon
so rotates it once every 60-seconds, producing more than carriage underneath the dial plate – even the sunrise/sun-
the usual show of virtuosity in a tourbillon. The movement is set indicator is tucked away on the flange. The watch, which
a hand-wound flying tourbillon, produced in-house by Cartier is the most complicated ever developed by Panerai, does,
and cased in pink gold. “ The movement is revolutionary ”, says however, indicate the equation of time variance on the dial.
Thierry Lamouroux, marketing and development manager
of Cartier’s watch division, “ because it is pure innovation. ” ROLEX SUBMARINER OYSTER PERPETUAL DATE
Cartier became a manufacture watchmaker two years ago, The Rolex Sub is the watch industry’s most enduring and
now making and developing its own movements, including widely-imitated iconic collection, and the quintessential diver’s
complications such as this one. watch. The latest, with a Big Date, is a long-awaited stainless
steel version – not just any kind of steel but tough, 904L
CARTIER ROTONDE ASTROTOURBILLON. steel. How tough ? – you could be frozen, beaten, submerged
THIS NEW MOVEMENT HAS BEEN
to 1,000 feet underwater, incinerated or shot at, and your
PRODUCED BY THE CARTIER
MANUFACTURE IN L A CHAUX-
watch would survive. (The bezel is Cerachrom, a combination PANER AI LUMINOR 1950
DE-FONDS AF TER A 5-YE AR of ceramic and platinum, which is bullet-proof). Like all Rolex L’ASTRONOMO. THE MOST COM-
PLICATED WRIST WATCH SO FAR
LONG DEVELOPMENT PHASE. IT
watches, it is COSC certified. · ⁄· BY THE FLORENTINE BR AND, THIS
CRE ATES A TRULY STRIKING
VISUAL EFFECT AS THE ASTRONOMICAL MODEL IS A TRIBUTE
ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL
TOURBILLON CARRIAGE TO GALILEO. THE PROPRIETARY
SUBMARINER DATE. 40 MM
TURNS NOT ONLY ON ITSELF MOVEMENT COMBINES A TOURBILLON,
OYSTER CASE IN 904L STEEL.
BUT ALSO ALL AROUND EQUATION OF TIME (LINE AR INDICATOR
UNIDIRECTIONAL ROTATING
THE MULTI-LEVELED DIAL AT 6 O’CLOCK), SUNRISE AND SUNSET
BEZEL WITH 60-MINUTE
IN 1 MINUTE. HAND-WOUND TIMES (VISIBLE ON THE FL ANGE), DATE,
GR ADUATION IN PL ATINUM
MECHANICAL MOVEMENT MONTH, FOUR-DAY POWER-RESERVE
AND BL ACK CER ACHROM
CALIBER 9451 MC, WITH A INDICATOR AND A MAP OF THE NIGHT
INSERT. TRIPLOCK SCREW-
48-HOUR POWER RESERVE. SKY ON THE BACK OF THE 50 MM
DOWN CROWN. SELF-
47 MM DIAMETER 18-K CASE SATIN-FINISH TITANIUM CASE WITH
WINDING MECHANICAL
FE ATURING A TR ANSPARENT BACK SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL BACK . BL ACK DIAL,
MOVEMENT, COSC CERTIFIED
AND A BLUE SAPPHIRE SET CROWN. POLISHED BEZEL, LUMINOUS NUMER-
CHRONOMETER. DATE AT
BROWN ALLIGATOR STR AP WITH DOUBLE ALS, HOUR MARKERS AND HANDS .
3 O’CLOCK WITH CYCLOPS
ADJUSTABLE 18-K PINK GOLD FOLDING HAND-WOUND MECHANICAL MANUFAC-
LENS. STEEL BR ACELET
CL ASP. WATER-RESISTANT TO 30 METERS . TURE MOVEMENT CALIBER P.2005/G.
WITH GRIDLOCK CL ASP.
ALLIGATOR STR AP WITH SATIN-FINISH
WATER-RESISTANT TO 300 M.
TITANIUM ADJUSTABLE BUCKLE.
WATER-RESISTANT TO 100 M.
· · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · COLLECTING TIME WATCH YOUR TIME USA 33SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT TO THE NEW YORK TIMES
PIAGET 1200P AUTOMATIC
This is the right piece for collectors who yearn to add a dis-
tinguished dress watch to their collections without com- PATEK PHILIPPE REF. 5170. PATEK PHILIPPE’S NEW MEN’S
promising on substance. Piaget’s new 1200P caliber CHRONOGR APH IS DRIVEN BY A NEW PATEK PHILIPPE HAND-
is the automatic version of the brand’s famously slim WOUND MOVEMENT, WHICH WAS FIVE YE ARS IN DEVELOPMENT AND
FOR WHICH SIX PATENTS WERE FILED. CENTER SECONDS HAND,
12P hand-wound movement. The 1200P measures in PULSOMETRIC SCALE WITH GR ADUATIONS FOR 15 PULSATIONS .
as the world’s thinnest automatic movement, at 30-MINUTE COUNTER AT 3 O’CLOCK , SMALL SECONDS AT 9 O’CLOCK.
2.35 mm thick, compared to the manual version CL ASSIC 39 MM ROUND CASE IN YELLOW GOLD WITH SCREW-DOWN
SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL BACK . 65-HOUR POWER RESERVE. PATEK
at 2.30 mm. It is appropriately cased in an 18-K PHILIPPE SE AL. HAND-STITCHED ALLIGATOR STR AP WITH FOLDING
white gold anniversary edition of the Altiplano BUCKLE. WATER-RESISTANT TO 30 M.
and is limited to 235 pieces.
PIAGET ALTIPLANO AUTOMATIC 43 MM. A CL ASSIC MODEL AND SYMBOL
OF PIAGET’S EXPERTISE IN THE CRE ATION OF ULTR A-THIN WATCHES,
THIS TIMEPIECE SETS T WO RECORDS : ONE FOR THE WORLD’S THINNEST
WATCH (5.25 MM) AND ONE FOR THE THINNEST MOVEMENT (2.35 MM). NEW
PIAGET 1200P CALIBER SELF-WINDING MECHANICAL MOVEMENT WITH MICRO-
ROTOR. 43 MM CASE IN WHITE GOLD OR ROSE GOLD. THE PRESTIGIOUS FINISH
OF THE MOVEMENT – CIRCUL AR CÔTES DE GENÈVE, CIRCUL AR-GR AINED PL ATE,
CHAMFERED BRIDGES, ROSE GOLD OSCILL ATING WEIGHT WITH THE PIAGET COAT
OF ARMS – IS DISPL AYED THROUGH THE SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL CASEBACK . SILVERED
DIAL WITH BL ACK BATON HOUR MARKERS AND BATON HANDS . SMALL SECONDS
BET WEEN 4 AND 5 O’CLOCK . ALLIGATOR STR AP WITH GOLD PIN BUCKLE.
BREGUET TRADITION FUSEE TOURBILLON
This watch is a paragon of innovation ; not just compared
to other watches but to Breguet’s own signature style. The
Tradition collection stands apart from the brand’s heritage
as a traditional, classic line. The edgy, open movement with PATEK 5170 CHRONOGRAPH
H
its sandpaper-like, black finish on the bridges is controversial The new caliber CH29-535 5 PS, is a
among Breguet fans, who are divided on whether they like manually wound chronograph aph cali-
the combination of ultra-modern, open-worked movement ber that was five years in the e making,
with traditional guilloché dial and fluted, platinum case. On the and, to the surprise of manyy watch
technical side, a silicon balance distinguishes it as technically connoisseurs, fi rst launched ed in a
superior – a Breguet signature. “ Fusee ” refers to the fusee- ladies’ case in Paris last November
ember
and-chain regulating system. The silicon balance spring is (Ref. 7071). The men’s version, the
friction- and corrosion-resistant. Ref. 5170, was the brand’s major
jor
launch at the Basel fair in April.
ril.
TAG HEUER CARRERA CALIBER 1887 The movement incorporates six
TAG Heuer’s new caliber 1887 chronograph movement derives patented innovations that attest
est
its name from the date when company founder Edouard Heuer to Patek’s celebrated obsessionsion
patented the oscillating pinion that, in one form or another, is with the minutiae of watchmaking
aking
used in most column-wheel chronograph movements. TAG’s technology. In a nutshell, thehe new
updated version of the pinion enables the chronograph to start refinements, many of which constitute
onstitute
in less than 1/1000th of a second and ensures the movement total refabrications of components,
nents, not
is more shock resistant than a vertical clutch system. only make the watch run more e smoothly
but render it more self-adjusting
sting and
BREGUET TRADITION TOURBILLON
FUSÉE. A DEMONSTR ATION OF
maintenance-free. · ⁄·
TECHNICAL SOPHISTICATION IN A F.P. JOURNE CHRONOMÈTRE À RÉSONANCE.
É THE FAMOUS GENEVA
TIMEPIECE WHOSE L ARGE 60-SECOND WATCHMAKER CELEBR ATES THE 10 TH ANNIVERSARY OF ONE OF HIS MOST
TOURBILLON AT 1 O’CLOCK JUXTAPOSES EMBLEMATIC TIMEPIECES . THE NATUR AL RESONANCE PHENOMENON
THE SMALL OFF-CENTRE DIAL AT CRE ATED BET WEEN ITS T WIN BAL ANCES GIVES THE WATCH AN
7 O’CLOCK . HAND-WOUND MECHANICAL UNEQUALLED PRECISION. 24-HOUR INDICATOR. HAND-WOUND PINK GOLD
MOVEMENT WITH TOURBILLON, SILICON MECHANICAL MOVEMENT, FE ATURING 2 INDEPENDENT GE AR TR AINS,
BAL ANCE SPRING AND TITANIUM ESCAPEMENTS, BAL ANCES AND SMALL SECONDS . POWER RESERVE :
BAL ANCE. A FUSEE-AND-CHAIN 40 HOURS . 38 MM CASE. ALLIGATOR STR AP WITH PIN BUCKLE.
TR ANSMISSION ENSURES CONSTANT
FORCE FOR AS LONG AS THE WATCH IS
RUNNING. ROUND 41 MM CASE IN TAG HEUER CARRERA CALIBER 1887. THE FIRST MODEL
950 PL ATINUM WITH FLUTED CASE BAND TO FE ATURE TAG HEUER’S PROPRIETARY CHRONOGR APH
AND SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL BACK . DIAL IN MOVEMENT, THE SELF-WINDING MECHANICAL CALIBER 1887.
SILVERED GOLD WITH GUILLOCHÉ HAND COLUMN-WHEEL CHRONOGR APH AND A NEW INTERPRETATION
ENGR AVING. 50-HOUR POWER RESERVE. OF THE OSCILL ATING PINION, AN ESSENTIAL COMPONENT OF
BL ACK ALLIGATOR STR AP. WATER- THE CHRONOGR APH, PATENTED BY HEUER IN 1887. 41 MM STEEL
RESISTANT TO 30 M. CASE. SATIN-FINISH POLISHED STEEL BR ACELET.
34 WATCH YOUR TIME USA COLLECTING TIME · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · ·You can also read
