The Ultimate Guide to Shopping - Great lipsticks, blushes, and eye shadows to try and buy
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SPECIAL ISSUE
Kesewa Aboah
Photographed by
Ruth Ossai
The Ultimate
Guide to Shopping
Great lipsticks, blushes,
and eye shadows to try and buy
5 Must-Know Models
Wearing Black-Owned
Beauty Brands We Love
N O V E M B E R 2 0 2 0
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OUR BEST
BEAUTY BETS
When it comes time to go beauty shopping (and in our opinion, it’s always time), whether you’re
looking for a great gift for a loved one or yourself, you don’t want to take a chance. You want to
shop with confidence. With the right knowledge, you can be sure your gifts will thrill the recipient
(and give them radiant skin and shiny hair, too). So shop smart, and grab these hair, skin, makeup,
and fragrance must-haves—our can’t-miss favorites from Nordstrom. Happy shopping!
M.A.C. SHOWSTOPPER NEULASH DUO CRÈME DE LA MER THE DEEP
LIPSTICK SET Wimpy, dull lashes are a thing of MOISTURE MINI COLLECTION
You simply can’t go wrong with the past with this pair of luxuriously La Mer does its dew diligence with
M.A.C. lipsticks, ever, and their conditioning, strengthening, this luxurious kit containing its
Powder Kiss lipsticks are no shine-enhancing lash treatments. iconic cream, of course, plus
different. Get ready for your close- A Nordstrom exclusive! priming lotion, barrier serum, and
up with this set of five (count ‘em!) eye cream. Go ahead, treat yourself.
moisturizing matte formulas that
nail that soft-focus look.
TRY ME ON IN YOUCAM
BOBBI BROWN COSMETICS CHRISTIAN DIOR COSMETICS CHARLOTTE TILBURY COSMETICS
LONG-WEAR CREAM SHADOW DIOR MAXIMIZING LIP CARE SET BEJEWELED EYES TO HYPNOTISE
STICK MINI SET Plump up your lips and max out INSTANT EYE PALETTE
These shadow sticks from the their color and shine with this Creating mesmerizing eyes has
legendary makeup artist go the effective duo, packaged in a cute never been easier with this smartly
distance—no need to worry about matching pouch along with a lash designed limited-edition palette
creasing or fading. Set it and forget it! primer (why not?). with a mix of metallic and matte
TRY ME ON IN YOUCAM TRY ME ON IN YOUCAM shadow formulas.
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Allure partnered with YouCam to enhance this issue—download the app so you can try on
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BEAUTY BIOSCIENCE FRESH ROSE DAY & NIGHT VOLUSPA JAPONICA
SKINCARE’S BESTIE SKINCARE HYDRATION SET MACARON TRIO
Haven’t tried microneedling? Featuring the powerhouse These gorgeous glass “macarons”
Welcome to your new hobby. This ingredient hyaluronic acid, this would make a great gift even if they
set contains the Best of Beauty deeply hydrating skincare kit didn’t contain warm, sophisticated
Award–winning GloPro includes a mini toner plus a daytime fragrances inside.
microneedling tool! moisturizer and an overnight mask.
JO MALONE CHRISTMAS CRACKER SLIP FACE COVERINGS
Forget plastic toys and paper crowns Up your face-mask game with AND GLOW
—this Christmas cracker has the best these glam face coverings. They Brighter, healthier-looking skin in
prizes we’ve ever seen: a trio of tiny don’t skimp on luxury, with silk on one curated set from the classic
scented treats from the renowned both sides, so it’s gentle on your skin-care brand, complete with
fragrance brand. skin, plus a cotton inner layer and cleanser, dark-spot treatment, eye
adjustable ear ties. Safe and chic. cream, and moisturizer.
L’OCCITANE HOLIDAY HAND OLAPLEX HOLIDAY HAIR FIX SKIN GYM ROSE QUARTZ
CREAM TRIO Get your hair party-ready with this WORKOUT SET
You probably have a bunch of these reparative kit from Olaplex, No actual workout required!
classic tubes already bouncing featuring the brand’s best-selling Get skin glowing with these
around multiple handbags, but damage treatment and frizz- gorgeous tools, designed to work
that’s no reason not to snag this fighting smoothing cream, plus together to release tension and
new set. Your freshly scented, shampoo and conditioner. increase radiance.
baby-soft hands will thank you.
November 2020
ILLUSTRATION: CHRISTINA ZIMPEL. KESEWA ABOAH, JESS MAYBURY, AKON CHANGKOU: RUTH OSSAI. LIPSTICK: STEFAN RUIZ. STILL LIFE: BOBBY DOHERTY. PORTRAIT: KEITH OSHIRO. FRAGRANCES: PETER LANGER.
From left, on Kesewa
Aboah: 8 Moncler
Richard Quinn jacket.
Erdem dress. Cult
Gaia shoes. On Jess
Maybury: Paco Rabanne
dress. Giuseppe Zanotti
boots. Fenty earrings.
On Akon Changkou:
Richard Quinn dress.
L’Enchanteur earrings.
Details, see allure
.com/credits.
MAKEUP COUNTER HAIR COUNTER F R AG R A N C E C O U N T E R
1 6 9 Lipsticks That Get Damn 42 Spring Forward 74 On the Nose
Close to “Universal” 49 On the Money 80 In Essence
1 8 Pap er Do l ls 52 Power Tools 82 Sample Sale
2 2 Eyes Up SKIN COUNTER STA RT S H O P P I N G
30 Design Within Reach 56 Work From Home 8 Editor’s Letter
34 Super Mario 60 Beauty Spaces With 84 The Shopping Guide
Rainey Qualley
62 The Skin-Care Puzzle
68 Powder Up
ALLURE IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT © 2020 CONDÉ NAST. ALL
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4 ALLURE NOVEMBER 2020
NEW
BROW E TENSIONS
Fiber-Packed Pomade Crayon
A first for thicker-looking brows
Emily is wearing Medium Brown. Before After
©2020 Maybelline LLC.
ON THE COVER
Finding
Her Light
With her unique style, model and
artist Kesewa Aboah straddles two
creative worlds. By Baze Mpinja
ABOAH: AUTUMN DEWILDE. VOGUE, 2020. RUNWAY PHOTOS: FILIPPO FOR/GORUNWAY.COM.
London-born artist and model Kesewa ago. The experience she’s having now feels MUSE FLASH
Aboah’s career would be completely differ- much different than it did in her earlier days. Clockwise from top
ent if she had followed her childhood dream. “It’s so nice going on sets and not feeling like left: Aboah in Vogue,
ALESSANDRO LUCIONI/GORUNWAY.COM. YANNIS VLAMOS/INDIGITAL.TV.
August 2020; walking
“I wanted to be a lawyer because I watched you’re the token Black girl,” she says. “There’s
the runway for
Legally Blonde every weekend. I thought lots of different shapes, sizes, and colors.
Alexander McQueen
Elle Woods was the coolest girl in the world,” Not just in front of the camera, but behind it (fall 2019), Preen by
Aboah says. “That was the one [goal] I stuck too.” At the Allure shoot, Aboah worked with Thornton Bregazzi
with for a long time. I quite like arguing with photographer Ruth Ossai, a Brit with Nigerian (spring 2020), and
people, so I thought I’d be really good at it.” roots. “It was the first time I had ever met Ruth, Kenzo (spring 2019);
There is no argument that today the 26-year- but I’d been a big fan. I’ve actually bought a The Water, by Kesewa
old is generating buzz in the modeling world. piece of her work before.” Aboah, 2017; All the
She has walked the runway for Michael Kors Aboah is also pursuing her own artistic Women in Me, by
Kesewa Aboah, 2019.
and Coach and was a muse for recent Miu Miu ambitions. In 2017, she earned a BFA from the
and Alexander McQueen campaigns. School of Visual Arts in New York City. “My
It’s not surprising that Aboah ended up in parents pushed me to have confidence and
this line of work. Her older sister, Adwoa, is to run with it,” she says. Her art mixes quick
already a supermodel, and her parents are no body impressions with “long, taxing, and slow”
strangers to the fashion world either. Aboah’s embroidery. “I like the duality,” Aboah explains.
British mother, Camilla Lowther, OBE, founded A few of her works were recently on display at
an artist management company, and Aboah’s a group exhibition in Paris. “At the beginning, I
Ghanaian father, Charles Aboah, is a former was more secretive about my art, but now I feel
location scout. Aboah was first signed to an more confident.”
agency when she was 16, but she didn’t start When she’s not making prints or sewing,
taking modeling seriously until a few years Aboah loves reading (currently A Little Life
6 ALLURE NOVEMBER 2020
Black Business Matters
The kaleidoscopic eye looks and candy-colored
blush in our cover story, Eyes Up (page 22), were all
created using Black-owned brands. Meet the
visionaries behind some of the pigmented products
you’ll see ahead. BY JESSICA CRUEL
DANESSA MYRICKS OF DANESSA
MYRICKS BEAUTY
“I was showing [women] how to layer and
mix, because there wasn’t always a
lot available for Black women,” says the
self-taught makeup artist. She decided
to create her own products with powerful
pigments, like the best-selling Colorfix,
a multiuse formula in pretty much any
color you can dream of.
by Hanya Yanagihara), watching movies,
and eating, although she’s not great in the
kitchen. “Apparently I’m the only person that
ARTWORKS: KESEWA ABOAH, THE WATER, 2017. KESEWA ABOAH, ALL THE WOMEN IN ME, 2019. MYRICKS: COURTESY PHOTO.
didn’t learn how to cook in lockdown. I was
not making any banana bread,” Aboah says.
McKISSACK AND ROGERS: ALEX WALLBAUM. ANIKEN-ATTANG: FRANCIS BASSEY. PRODUCTS: COURTESY OF BRAND.
She’s looking forward to traveling again, espe-
cially to Accra, where she has “loads of family.”
Aboah has traveled to Ghana regularly since
she was a child. “I’ve always felt [connected
to] it,” she says.
In the meantime, Aboah, who moved
back to London from NYC last year, is living The duo acquired Black Opal in 2019, making
a low-key life and maintaining an equally it Black-owned for the first time in its 26-year
low-maintenance beauty routine. “I don’t history. “As a Black owner, I’m looking to hire
really wear makeup. I just exfoliate [with Black [70 percent of their employees identify
Wildsmith Skin products] a couple of times a as African American], to work with other
week, put on REN face cream, and then I go. Black businesses, and to invest in nonprofits
I also use Palmer’s Cocoa Butter on my body in my community,” says Rogers.
every day,” she says. Her minimalist approach
is surprising for someone who says her
beauty icons are “anyone ageless with amaz-
ing skin,” like supermodel Iman, or her Auntie
Mary. “She’s in her 90s, and she still looks like
she’s in her 70s.”
Aboah says her natural hair regimen is a
lot more time-consuming than her skin habits:
“My hair is a lot of work and I struggle with
that sometimes. I had braids until I was 17, so
I learned how to look after my hair a bit later.
It was definitely trial and error. My friend was
a big help. She was like, ‘You’re a mess. Let After years working in finance and being the
me sort you out.’” Aboah conditions her hair beauty pro in her group chat, Aniekan-Attang
every day and detangles it with a Mielle deep built the brand of her dreams. “I would see
conditioner once or twice a week. Sometimes someone fairer than me create beautiful looks
she’ll incorporate a clay face-masking and it just wasn’t showing up on [me],” she
moment while she’s combing through her recalls. Now, her eye shadow palettes—like
‘fro. “I love a face mask,” she says. And who the ever-popular Oceanic—have a reputation
could argue with that? on Instagram for being bold and bright.
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
Self-Service
It’s been a month since my last full eye makeup look, even if there’s a much-needed pedicure. I can’t
at-home pedicure, and nearly a year nowhere to go. Our lives may have say I have the skill of a professional
since I set foot in a nail salon. Prepan- changed during the pandemic, but just yet, but I’m getting better. Call it
demic, I would have cringed to be that hasn’t diminished our love and a toehold.
seen in public with what I’m witness- enthusiasm for beauty.
ing now—the cracked remains of At the same time, the way we shop
a pale-pink Paintbox polish barely and engage with beauty has certainly
hanging on. But I’ve been home. Out- shifted. The fun, interactive, in-person
side of my family, the most that any- part of beauty shopping—swatching,
one has seen me has been from the smearing, and spritzing in stores—has
rib cage up on a 13-by-16-inch screen. been put on hold indefinitely. So we
(I joke that my go-to quarantine work- set out on a mission while developing
wear is a fashion “mullet”: business this issue: How could we bring the
on top, sweatpants on the bottom.) experience of the beauty store into NAIL POLISH: JOSEPHINE SCHIELE. MICHELLE LEE: EMILY LIPSON.
So, I’m left wondering whether your home?
it matters if my toenails are painted You’ll notice this special edition of
prettily if no one sees them. If a bottle Allure looks different. On the pages
of OPI Big Apple Red falls in the forest that follow, we’ve broken down the
and no one’s around to hear it, does it magazine into sections: makeup, skin
make a sound? It turns out the answer care, hair, and fragrance. And we
for me is yes. partnered with the YouCam Makeup
Spending more time at home has app to enable virtual try-ons for a lot
made me think a lot about the beauty of the looks. Throughout the issue,
rituals I perform for the approval of look for pages featuring the icon at
others versus those I do for myself. far right, including in our beautiful
For instance, I’m still devoted to doing cover story spotlighting rising star
hair masks two or three times a week, Kesewa Aboah and four other mod-
but I’ve dramatically simplified styl- els, using products from some of our
ing to a 15-second half-topknot. My favorite Black-owned beauty brands. Download the YouCam Makeup app by
skin-care routine, meanwhile, has I hope you’ll find a lot of new tips and opening your iPhone or Android camera and
remained a solid self-care practice. products to bring into your home. hovering over this QR code. With a few clicks,
And I’ve discovered—happily!—that As for me, I finally ended that you can try on many of the makeup looks and
I love the act and art of putting on a monthlong hiatus and gave myself products featured in this issue.
8 ALLURE NOVEMBER 2020SLEEK & SHINE
KEEP HAIR S
LEE K.
EVEN IN
97% HUMIDITY*
TIRED OF FRIZZY,
UNRULY HAIR?
DISCOVER SLEEK & SHINE
WITH MOROCCAN ARGAN OIL
FOR SLEEK THAT LASTS UP TO 3 DAYS*.
FROM AMERICA’S #1 SMOOTHING BRAND!**
GARNIERUSA.COM ©2020 GARNIER LLC. *SYSTEM OF SHAMPOO, CONDITIONER, AND LEAVE IN CREAM. **BASED ON NIELSEN SALES DATA, UNITS SOLD, HAIRCARE, YTD 5/9/20.M I C H E L L E ’S M O S T WA N T E D
Cool Comforts
With a new baby at home and two older
kids in virtual school, I’m treating my frazzled
self to these just-launched products.
Clockwise from
top left: Em Cosmetics
Color Drops Serum
Blush in Peachy
Peach, $25. Hourglass
Confession Ultra
Slim Refillable Lipstick
in At Night, $36.
Becca Cosmetics Light
Gleam Primer & Topper
Liquid Eyeshadow in
Golden Hour, $26.
Lancôme Absolue
Overnight Repairing
Bi-Ampoule, $150.
Rings, Nina Kastens.
Farmacy Honey
Halo Ceramide
Moisturizer, $45.
Kérastase
Chronologiste Masque
Intense Régénérant,
$70. Sophie la Girafe
teether, $25. Clarins
Velvet Lip Perfector in
Raspberry, $26.
Photographed by Peter Langer
10 ALLURE NOVEMBER 2020TODAY’S FORECAST:
100% CHANCE OF
HYDRATED SKIN.
Clinically proven to lock in hydration
with Hyaluronic Acid.
Skin so supple and hydrated,
it bounces back.
© J&JCI 2019Michelle Lee
EDITOR IN CHIEF
EXECUTIVE BEAUTY DIRECTOR JENNY BAILLY CREATIVE DIRECTOR NATHALIE KIRSHEH DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL OPERATIONS AMANDA MEIGHER
DIGITAL EDITORIAL DIRECTOR SAM ESCOBAR HEAD OF DIGITAL STRATEGY LINDSAY SANSONE
DEPUTY BEAUTY DIRECTOR ELIZABETH SIEGEL Production/Copy/Research Allure.com
FASHION DIRECTOR RAJNI JACQUES DEPUTY MANAGING EDITOR NICOLE STUART DEPUTY EDITOR KARA McGRATH
DIRECTOR OF CONTENT DEVELOPMENT PRODUCTION MANAGER BRENT BURKET ASSOCIATE BEAUTY DIRECTOR
SOYINI DRISKELL COPY MANAGERS SARAH KINONEN
FEATURES DIRECTOR JESSICA CRUEL LESLIE LIPTON, DAWN REBECKY BEAUTY EDITOR DEVON ABELMAN
SENIOR WRITER BRENNAN KILBANE RESEARCH DIRECTOR LORI SEGAL WELLNESS EDITOR ROSEMARY DONAHUE
SENIOR BEAUTY EDITOR DIANNA MAZZONE RESEARCH MANAGER AMBER ANGELLE STAFF EDITOR JIHAN FORBES
BEAUTY EDITOR PAIGE STABLES EDITORIAL BUSINESS MANAGER TAYLOR SHEA STAFF WRITER NICOLA DALL’ASEN
SENIOR MANAGER OF CONTENT DEVELOPMENT ASSISTANT EDITOR ANGELA TRAKOSHIS
MONICA PERRY
ASSISTANT EDITOR KATHLEEN SUICO
Contributing Editors
ASSISTANT MARKET EDITOR KAREN LOPEZ
JESSICA CHIA, DAVID DENICOLO, Audience Development
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT GABRIELA THORNE
TALIA GUTIERREZ, EMILY NEWHOUSE, and Social
DANIELLE PERGAMENT, COMMUNICATIONS DIRECTOR JAIME MARSANICO
MARCI ROBIN, LIANA SCHAFFNER SENIOR SOCIAL MANAGER ALITHEA CASTILLO
Creative
SENIOR COMMERCE EDITOR LAUREN SWANSON
VISUALS DIRECTOR KATHRYNE HALL COMMERCE EDITOR NYKIA SPRADLEY
DESIGN DIRECTOR SARAH OLIN Founding Editor SENIOR COMMERCE WRITER SARAH HAN
DIGITAL ART DIRECTOR BRYAN VARGAS HEAD OF PROGRAMMING LULU KRAUSE
LINDA WELLS
SENIOR VISUALS EDITOR LAUREN BROWN SUPERVISING VIDEO PRODUCER ANNIE VENEZIA
DESIGNER BELLA GERACI MANAGER, ANALYTICS MELISSA HANEY
JUNIOR DESIGNER CLARA HENDLER
ASSISTANT VISUALS EDITOR CASSIE BASFORD
BOOKINGS DIRECTOR FELICITY WEBB
ENTERTAINMENT EDITOR EUGENE SHEVERTALOV
BOOKINGS MANAGER MORGAN SENESI
Susan D. Plagemann
CHIEF BUSINESS OFFICER
HEAD OF MARKETING KIMBERLY FASTING-BERG HEAD OF SALES, AUTO VP, ENTERPRISE SALES – LOS ANGELES
HEAD OF SALES, BEAUTY LUCY KRIZ & MEDIA/ENTERTAINMENT DAN WEINER
HEAD OF SALES, FASHION & LUXURY DAVID STUCKEY BILL MULVIHILL VP, FINANCE AND BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT
HEAD OF SALES, HEALTH CARRIE MOORE HEAD OF SALES, BIZ/FI/TECH DOUG GRINSPAN SYLVIA W. CHAN
HEAD OF SALES, CPG & VICE JEFF BARISH VP, REVENUE – MIDWEST PAMELA QUANDT EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, BRAND MARKETING
HEAD OF SALES, HOME & TRAVEL VP, REVENUE – SAN FRANCISCO CAMILLE DARBY
BETH LUSKO-GUNDERMAN DEVON ROTHWELL SENIOR BUSINESS DIRECTOR KELLY HWANG
PUBLISHED BY CONDÉ NAST CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER IN THE UNITED STATES
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER ROGER LYNCH DEIRDRE FINDLAY CHIEF COMMUNICATIONS OFFICER
CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER CHIEF PEOPLE OFFICER STAN DUNCAN JOSEPH LIBONATI
& PRESIDENT, INTERNATIONAL CHIEF COMMUNICATIONS OFFICER DANIELLE CHIEF BUSINESS OFFICER, U.S. ADVERTISING
WOLFGANG BLAU CARRIG REVENUE AND GLOBAL VIDEO SALES
GLOBAL CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER & PRESIDENT, CHIEF OF STAFF SAMANTHA MORGAN CRAIG KOSTELIC
U.S. REVENUE CHIEF DATA OFFICER KARTHIC BALA EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT – REVENUE MONICA RAY
PAMELA DRUCKER MANN CHIEF CLIENT OFFICER JAMIE JOUNING HEAD CREATIVE DIRECTOR RAÚL MARTINEZ
U.S. ARTISTIC DIRECTOR AND CHIEF PRODUCT & TECHNOLOGY OFFICER
GLOBAL CONTENT ADVISOR SANJAY BHAKTA CONDÉ NAST ENTERTAINMENT
ANNA WINTOUR CHIEF CONTENT OPERATIONS OFFICER PRESIDENT AGNES CHU
CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER MIKE GOSS CHRISTIANE MACK EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT –
GENERAL MANAGER OF OPERATIONS
CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD KATHRYN FRIEDRICH
JONATHAN NEWHOUSE
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Four makeup pros unleash their
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PAGE 18
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FOR YOUR EYES ONLY
Makeup artist Bea Sweet
plays with bold colors and
shimmering textures to
create maximalist eye looks.
Photographed by PAGE 22
Ruth Ossai
14 ALLURE NOVEMBER 2020MASTER CLASS
Renowned artist and educator
Mario Dedivanovic releases his
highly anticipated beauty line.
PAGE 34
LIP SERVICE
Top makeup artists share
nine lipsticks that
will look great on anyone.
PAGE 16
HOT TIPS
With these easy moves
(and some inspiration from
the experts), you can
become your own nail artist.
PAGE 30
TOP 25
The tried-and-true
shades manicurists
always keep in their kits.
PAGE 32
Special Issue Creative Director
Aurelie Pellissier Roman9 Lipsticks
That Get Damn
Close to “Universal”
For a bullet to work on many, it needs neutral
undertones, fantastic color payoff, and a buildable
formula. In the great tradition of MAC Ruby Woo, these
are the rarefied lipsticks that makeup artists reach
for again and again (and again). —Kathleen Suico
Laura Mercier Stickgloss Lipstick in Plum MAC Powder Kiss Lipstick in Devoted
“A plum color that gives lips a little something to Chili “The best burnt orange-red,” says
so they’re not disappearing on your face,” makeup artist Raisa Flowers. “It can
says makeup artist Ashunta Sheriff. be used on its own, or worn in the center
of the lips with brown lip liner.”
Photographed by
Stefan Ruiz
Urban Decay Vice Lipstick in Hex ”This semi-
matte formula can be layered to create a berry-
stained lip, or worn with purple liner for a deep
blood-red,” says makeup artist Lora Arellano.Dior Addict Stellar Shine in Diorosphere Becca Cosmetics Ultimate Lipstick Love in “On fair to tan skin, you’ll see coral; on Taupe “On light skin tones this is a gorgeous deeper skin, peach,” says makeup artist brick brown; on medium and dark, the Daniel Martin. perfect nude,” says makeup artist Gita Bass. Kosas Weightless Lip Color in Nars Lipstick in Schiap “A gorgeous Rosewater “Rose shades tend to look blue hot pink that can be worn as a wash on olive skin tones,” says Bass, “but this of color or layered for full impact,” soft, natural color flatters [everyone].” according to Bass. Pat McGrath Labs MatteTrance Lipstick Maybelline New York Color Sensational in Full Panic “It’s hard to find a [matte] Lipstick in Toasted Truffle “It’s your pink that isn’t overly matte,” says Flowers. ‘90s brown lipstick but better—I love using “This bright fuchsia pops.” it as contour on cheeks too,” says Martin.
Get the look: Giorgio
Armani Eyes to Kill Eye
Paper Dolls
Quattro Eyeshadow in
Hollywood, Make Up For Ever
Aqua Resist Color Pencil
in Deep Sea, Clé de Peau
Beauté Perfect Lash Mascara,
Four makeup artists return to the Jill Stuart Bloom Mix Blush
face chart to interpret the zeitgeist in Mellow Daisy, and
Giorgio Armani Ecstasy
in pigment, cream, and pencil. Mirror Lip Gloss in Eclectic.
Illustrations by Christina Zimpel
Mai Quynh
“I don’t really wear a lot of makeup on my own face, but I have been lately. Because of the pandemic, a lot of people
have been asking me, ‘What’s a good way of playing up your eyes [with a face mask]?’ So I’ve been working on eyes a
lot, and having fun with that. When Allure asked me to do this chart, at first I was like, ‘Oh, I’ll do natural, pretty makeup,’
but it’s so much fun to try on something bold and bright just to see how it would look. This blue color stuck out.”
18 ALLURE NOVEMBER 2020Get the look: Stila Suede
Shade Liquid Eye Shadow
in Violet Velvet, Huda
Beauty Pastel Obsessions
Eyeshadow Palette in
Lilac Obsessions, L’Oréal
Paris Brilliant Eyes Liquid
Shadow in Amethyst
Quartz, L’Oréal Paris Air
Volume Mega Mascara,
Uoma Beauty Double
Take Contour Stick in
Bronze Venus, and Fenty
Beauty Stunna Lip Paint
in Underdawg.
Sir John
“I’m known for two things: One is spotlight makeup; makeup that works for stadium lighting. [Editor’s note: Sir John is Beyoncé’s
makeup artist.] The other is my love of people. My job is to make people feel good. In a Zoom window, you want to make sure
you’re seeing health. It’s less of a look and more of a feeling. I didn’t want this look to be too dark and vampy. It’s nice for a socially
distanced block party, or a [video chat] happy hour. Lashes are always the icing on the cake. They give a sense of punctuation.”Get the look: Danessa
Myricks Beauty Colorfix
in Royalty, Danessa Myricks
Beauty Colorfix Foils in
Venus, Clarins Waterproof
Pencil in Fig, Maybelline
New York Falsies Lash
Lift Mascara, Mented
Cosmetics Bronzer in Yacht
Life, CoverGirl Clean Fresh
Cooling Glow Stick in
Opal Dreams, Nars Lipstick
in License to Love, and
Dior Lip Maximizer in Berry.
Delina Medhin
“As soon as [social-distancing] began, I started practicing on my own face to stay sharp. Having a steady hand is something
you have to practice every day—my line work has improved. I toe the line between natural and bold. The skin always maintains
this natural look, and then I focus color on the eye or the lip or both. We didn’t get to experience summer in New York, so I
wanted elements of summer in a fall look—purple feels very summery. I just turned on some music and let myself paint.”
20 ALLURE NOVEMBER 2020Get the look: Huda
Beauty Obsessions Eyeshadow
Palette in Amethyst and Topaz,
Lime Crime Diamond Dew
Liquid Eyeshadow in Pixie,
KVD Vegan Beauty Super
Pomade Vegan Eyeliner,
Shadow & Brow Pigment in
Satellite, Nyx Epic Wear Liner
Stick in Pink Spirit, Fenty
Beauty Killawatt Foil Freestyle
Highlighter in Mimosa Sunrise/
Sangria Sunset, and
Folly Fire Matte Manipulation
Lipstick in The Supreme.
Doniella Davy
“When we all went into quarantine, I had so many Euphoria looks bouncing around in my head [Editor’s note: Davy is the head of the show’s
makeup department], and for a while I was like, ‘Well, let me just save them or shelve them for a couple of months.’ Then I realized I didn’t
know when we’d start [shooting] season two, so I started doing them on my own face, which became a really fun outlet. This look feels like
[two Euphoria characters]: There’s the more experimental, electric color palette of Jules, and then Maddy’s adornment, with the rhinestones
and the wing liner shape. It’s definitely inspired by my current reality being the opposite—casual, at home, in bed.”MONO Y MONO
Look closer: What you see here
isn’t a single shade, but a symphony
of colors. Left, three hues from
Juvia’s Place The Sweet Pinks
Eyeshadow Palette are layered into
a hazy dawn. Right, see how the
color (from The Crayon Case’s The
Matte Book) heats up as it draws
away from the corner of the eye?
Left, on Jess Maybury: Gucci cape, dress, and
neckpiece. Right, on Ariish Wol: JW Anderson
top. These pages: Fashion stylist, Gabriella
Karefa-Johnson. Hair: Issac Poleon. Makeup: Bea
Sweet. Set Design: Luke Ossai. Production:
Rosie Cartwright. Details, see allure.com/credits.BEAM UP Each eye is a universe of its own, a pink, glitter-dusted nebula stretching out to galactic infinity. Makeup artist Bea Sweet used Black Opal’s eye pencil in After Hours, then Pat McGrath Labs’ VR Sextraterrestrial (from the Mothership VIII: Divine Rose II Eyeshadow Palette) on the inner corners and Ace Beautè’s Night Sky (from the Paradise Fallen palette) everywhere else. On Akon Changkou: Prada shirt, tie, and sweater vest. Details, see allure.com/credits.
PAINTED LADY Your eye makeup canvas starts at the bottom of your eyebrows and goes to the top of the lash lines. Blend a sparkling shadow out to an arc between the outer corners of the eyes and the tip of the eyebrows for a no-liner cat eye. Sweet used Juvia’s Place Fighter, topped with Gossip on the center of the lid (both are from the Wahala Palette). On Maybury: Emilia Wickstead top. Diaboli Kill earrings. Details, see allure.com/credits.
OUT OF BOUNDS
Where does the blush begin
and the eye shadow stop?
Blur the line between the two—
a fresh take on ’70s makeup
that pairs as well with a bold
floral as it does with a T-shirt.
Sweet used three shades
from makeup artist Danessa
Myricks’s line. From left:
Colorfix 24-Hour Cream Color
in Carrot Top, the Waterproof
Cream Vivid Palette’s Flamingo
shade, and Colorfix 24-Hour
Neon Color in Lollipop.
From left, on Kesewa Aboah:
Moncler 8 Richard Quinn jacket.
Erdem dress. On Maybury: Paco
Rabanne dress. Giuseppe Zanotti
boots. Fenty earrings. On Changkou:
Richard Quinn dress. L’Enchanteur
earrings. Details, see allure.com/credits.
27COUPLE UP
Maximal eyes and minimal
lips ruled the (eerily prescient)
fall 2020 runways, which
managed to show color in
new and exciting shapes and
applications. Sweet nodded
to the color-blocked eyes at
Dries Van Noten, Altuzarra,
and Charlotte Knowles with her
own take on two-tone—a battle
of fire and ice waged just south
of the forehead. She used Ace
Beautè Oceanic Palette (the
Bora Bora shade) and The
Crayon Case The Matte Book
(the light peach and coral shades).
On Aboah: Loewe dress. Details,
see allure.com/credits.TWO OF A KIND
Complementary colors offer
a softer take on the two-tone
trend. Sweet stacked the
shades Vegetation and Maize
from Ace Beautè’s Classical
Paradise palette for a look
that’s got all the promise of a
sunrise. Sweet finished with a
dusting of bubblegum-pink
blush using Beauty Bakerie
Neapolitan Bar face palette.
On Lily Vogt: KAI Collective turtleneck.
Details, see allure.com/credits.BEAUTY SCHOOL
Design
Within Reach
You have a nail artist within you.
Or at least you will in about...
three pages. By Paige Stables
GO TO ANOTHER DIMENSION. Take your nails to Amazing Grace, respectively). To mimic the look
the next level with a 3D design, like rhinestones of marble, all you need is a clean kitchen sponge,
on one or two nails on each hand. “Crystals are a says Miles. Use one shade as your base color
big statement; a soft base color balances them (doesn’t matter which one), let it dry completely
out,” says manicurist Naomi Yasuda, who likes (give it a full two minutes), and then “brush the
using icy turquoise blue (try Essie In the Cab-ana), surface of the sponge [with your other color] until
with stones in different sizes. (“You can find glass you can see a marble pattern,” Miles explains.
stone sets between $10 and $20 on Amazon,” she Press the sponge over your nails, and “rotate it
says.) Yasuda’s method: “Start with big stones in so you get different patterns on each nail,” she
the center of the nail, then surround them with says. Don’t have a steady hand? No problem, says
smaller ones.” For less glitz, “try a small crystal Miles: “The imperfections are what make it look
near the cuticle.” Adhere the crystals using a nail [like real marble].”
glue, like IBD Brush-On Nail Glue. Or try a bubble STRIPE RIGHT. Lines, and tigers, and zebras, oh,
effect to make nails pop without all the shine. Use my! For a zigzag animal print, manicurist Jessica
a dotting tool to create each drop by painting on Washick suggests using a small, pointed paint-
little blobs of The Gel Bottle’s clear builder gel until brush, but she says “you can also use a toothpick
it becomes a ball shape, says manicurist Sojin Oh. if you’re in a pinch.” To mimic a zebra’s stripes,
Skip a topcoat to keep them from looking bulky. paint your nails white, then add black by “moving
LET SPARKLES FLY. Color in half of each nail with the brush across the nail with a jaggedy stroke,”
glitter for a look that’s part Beyoncé, says manicur- Washick says. Or give polka dots an edge simply
ist Anna Miles: First, paint each nail using a clear by adding dashes: Manicurist Gina Edwards rec-
base coat or sheer pink (Miles likes Deborah Lipp- ommends starting with a clear base coat, then
mann Love At First Sight), then “paint glitter nail painting on light pink and black dots (she likes
polish onto a cosmetic sponge. The [clear] base OPI Mod About You and Black Onyx). “A dotting
of the polish will absorb, leaving behind concen- tool works best,” she says, “and I place the dots
trated glitter.” Stick Scotch tape over the left half randomly, without any rhyme or reason.” Finish by
of each nail and sponge the glitter over the right. drawing a white slash (Edwards likes OPI Alpine
An even easier cheat for professional-looking nail Snow) through each dot using a striping tool.
art: stickers. “Anyone can do this,” says Yasuda, FLUFF IT UP. Do your best John Constable with a
who likes to pop small glitter star stickers (from a dreamy cloud design. For an ethereal effect, Oh
99 Cent shop) over a navy manicure (China Glaze lightly holds her brush (the Liner 1 Diamond Nail
One Track Mind) for a night-sky vibe. Seal it with Art Brush by Bio Seaweed Gel) and draws lots of
two layers of topcoat. little dots: “Start in the middle of the cloud and
SWIRL AROUND. Give subdued shades new make circles around to create the shape,” says Oh.
life by marbleizing them together. Deep navy or (She likes Bio Seaweed Gel in White for the clouds
black pairs well with white (Miles likes Deborah and Bio Seaweed Gel in Powder Blue for the sky.)
Lippmann Fight the Power, Fade to Black, and And if you need inspiration, don’t forget to look up.
Mini Masterpieces
You’ve got 10 blank canvases at your fingertips. Top manicurists
created the nail designs at right to help inspire you.
Top row, from left: Nail art by Jessica Washick, Naomi Yasuda, Sojin Oh, Anna Miles, Yasuda.
Second row, from left: Nail art by Oh, Miles, Miles, Miles, Yasuda.
Third row, from left: Nail art by Miles, Miles, Washick, Oh, Miles.
Fourth row, from left: Nail art by Gina Edwards, Miles, Yasuda, Yasuda, Yasuda.
Fifth row, from left: Nail art by Washick, Yasuda, Yasuda, Miles, Yasuda.
Sixth row, from left: Nail art by Miles, Yasuda, Miles, Edwards, Miles.
30 ALLURE NOVEMBER 2020Photographed by Josephine Schiele
BEAUTY SCHOOL
1 2 3 4 5
6 7 8 9 10
11 12 13 14 15
16 17 18 19 20
21 22 23 24 25
The Ultimate Polish Kit
The world’s sexiest, most fun, and most flattering assortment
of lacquers, according to top manicurists who
always have these bottles on hand. By Kathleen Suico
1. ESSIE LICORICE “is my go-to fidence booster,” says Remark. 18. DIOR NUIT 1947, “a dark red that’s
black—pure, undiluted, and densely 9. ESSIE BLANC is your best bet for not streaky or watery,” says Inzerillo.
pigmented,” says manicurist Rita a highly pigmented and opaque white, 19. DIOR MASSAÏ, “an opaque, sexy,
Remark (who works with the brand). says manicurist Betina Goldstein. one-coat red,” says Kandalec.
2. OPI GOT THE BLUES FOR RED is “a 10. DIOR INCOGNITO is “exactly what 20. ESSIE INSIDE SCOOP, a “sheer,
classic deep red with cool undertones the name says—a beautiful neutral that candy pink [that’s] like rosy lip gloss—
that looks great on medium to dark complements every skin tone,” says fresh and pretty [on everyone],” says
skin tones,” says manicurist Sigourney manicurist Mar y Sol Inzerillo. Remark.
Nuñez. 11. ZOYA LOUISE is “a creamy choc- 21. ORLY OH SNAP, “a highly pig-
3. ESSIE WILD NUDE “is as if Goldi- olate that’s beautiful on darker skin mented neon yellow. I love using this
locks chose it: not too pink, opaque tones,” says Inzerillo. for a French tip with a twist,” says man-
but not chalky, just right,” says mani- 12. OPI IT’S A BOY!, “a refreshing icurist Amy Le.
curist Julie Kandalec. powdery blue that can be worn year- 22. OPI BLACK ONYX is Nuñez’s
4. PAINTBOX LIKE WILD “actually round,” says Nuñez. “trusted black [for] nail art.”
reads green from afar—many greens 13. PEACCI MAMASITA is the best 23. BUTTER LONDON STRAWBERRY
are too bright or read black,” says Kan- bright orange, says Inzerillo. FIELDS, “a full-coverage pink that you
dalec. 14. ORLY SKINNY DIP, “an ocean blue don’t need multiple coats of,” says
5. OPI POLLY WANT A LACQUER?, “a that’s great on toes for all skin tones,” Inzerillo.
pastel lavender that’s a subtle pop of says Inzerillo. 24. OPI SAMOAN SAND “is neutral
color,” says Nuñez. 15. DEFY & INSPIRE BRIDEZILLA is enough for just about everyone, and
6. OPI MOD ABOUT YOU is “an iconic Inzerillo’s pick for the sultriest deep- it’s buildable for maximum coverage,”
JOSEPHINE SCHIELE
bubble-gum pink,” says Nuñez. red manicure. says Kandalec.
7. ESSIE WICKED is “the quintessen- 16. ESSIE YES I CANYON, “a brick 25. OPI THINGS I’VE SEEN IN ABER-
tial vampy ’90s red—a grunge shade,” orange that’s the perfect summer-to- GREEN, “a deep, mossy, almost-black
says Remark. fall transitional shade,” says Remark. green for a bold fall look; with a matte
8. ESSIE GERANIUM, “the closest to 17. DEBORAH LIPPMANN NAKED is topcoat it has a moody, vampy vibe,”
neon that red can get—an instant con- Inzerillo’s go-to sheer beige. says Nuñez.
32 ALLURE NOVEMBER 2020MAKEUP BEAUTY REPORTER
Super Mario
If you are familiar with the modern one of the most recognizable faces decades into his career, Dedivanovic
beauty world, you are familiar with in the world (and the most famous finally feels worthy of putting his
Mario Dedivanovic’s résumé: global Kardashian). Yet Dedivanovic, who vision behind a line of beauty prod-
started training as a makeup artist ucts. “As an artist, I needed to feel I
at the New York City Flatiron Dis- was ready for that in terms of being
trict Sephora when he was 17, never mature enough, being experienced
felt fully validated—until now. Two enough, and...not just being, but
feeling innately that I am,” he says. “I
feel like I’ve gotten old, to be honest,
but I feel like I became a man.” (If you
want his definition of “old,” he just
turned 37.)
Dedivanovic is transforming
the way we approach makeup with
Makeup By Mario, a collection that
includes molten palettes, long-last-
ing liners, and sparkling highlight-
ers, all inspired by his most coveted
looks. We asked for a class on the
shimmering selection and the mas-
ter obliged. —DEVON ABELMAN
MASTER CRYSTAL MASTER METALS
REFLECTOR Part of a three-palette lineup
Remember Kim Kardashian separated by finish (matte, metallic,
West’s 2019 Met Gala wet and metal), this one is made to be
look? This bouncy powder destroyed. Tucked below these
(right) is the one-step way to glittering Gold (above left), Silver
re-create it. You can blend it (above), Copper, Bronze, and Rose
onto your cheekbones and Gold colors is a removable tray made
collarbone as highlighter, for scraping the pigments into. There
PRODUCTS: COURTESY OF BRAND
but Dedivanovic likes it best you can add a couple of drops
on lids—just swipe it on of the Master Metals Manipulator
with your index finger. “You (a water-resistant mixing medium,
could do it on your bare lid, sold separately; shown on opposite
or you could do it over your page) and whip up your own metal
eye shadow,” he says. “When liquid shadow or liner. “So let’s say
light hits this, the sparkles you do the Gold, but you want
dance on your eyelids. It more depth to it, you can add a bit
looks like water.” of the Bronze,” says Dedivanovic.
34 ALLURE NOVEMBER 2020MASTER EYE PREP & SET
This compact (above; available
in three shades) neatly packages
Dedivanovic’s go-to eye makeup
priming technique: “Typically,
I use a concealer in a couple
of shades, then a translucent
powder to set it.” The top row
is a duo of creams—in a light
and darker shade—that can be
combined to match your skin
tone, topped with the powder,
and worn under eye shadow (you
can also use the creams to touch
up your complexion throughout
the day). Or use only the lighter
shade as a shadow base “if
you want to go [brighter] with
your eyes,” says Dedivanovic. MASTER SECRET GLOW
Just as its name implies,
this transparent, nonsticky
balm (below) gives skin a
lit-from-within quality. What
the name doesn’t tell you
is how beautifully your new
glow will stay put. “When
PRODUCTS: COURTESY OF BRAND. PORTRAIT: STEFANIE KEENAN/WIREIMAGE VIA GETTY IMAGES
you come home, it’s still
there, where you [first]
put it,” Dedivanovic says.
“It grips to that area and
doesn’t move.” Tap it onto
the high points of your
face for a glassy gleam
that won’t disrupt any base
product underneath.
Above: the Master Metals MASTER PIGMENT
Manipulator and a spatula for all your PRO PENCIL
makeup mixology needs. Below: In the blackest of blacks and an
biodegradable Gentle Makeup
earthy brown, this long-lasting
Remover Wipes that go easy on skin,
pencil (above) slicks on
but work tough on makeup.
creamy lines. Flip it over to
reveal a rectangular brush that
Dedivanovic designed with his
older sister Vicky in mind. He
wanted her to be able to create
the winged liner of her dreams.
Now all she has to do is run
the pencil along the roots of
her lashes and then swoop the
pigment up at the outer cor-
ners. It’s strategically made with
a flat edge to bring the color
into the perfect flick.Hair
CURL POWER
Pro-recommended tips and
techniques to get your best
coils, spirals, and waves.
PAGE 42
TOOLBOX
If you’ve got curls, consider
these brushes, combs,
clips, and more.
PAGE 44
SHOP SMART
We asked three celebrity
hairstylists about the products
that pack the most punch per
dollar. (You’ll want every one.)
PAGE 49
Photographed by
Ruth Ossai
40 ALLURE NOVEMBER 2020INSPECTOR GADGET
The latest hair tools work
harder, better, faster.... you get it.
And they do it all without
sacrificing the health of your hair.
PAGE 52
NOVEMBER 2020 ALLURE 41BEAUTY SCHOOL
42 ALLURE NOVEMBER 2020
S-shaped waves to pin-tight coils, we’ve
styling your textured hair. By Jessica Cruel
created the ultimate guide to caring for and
Thank heaven for little (and big) curls! From
Spring Forward
PHOTO: IVANA CRUZ. BLAKE LIVELY: NORMAN JEAN ROY. ALLURE, 2010. JULIA ROBERTS: FRANK EDWARDS/FOTOS INTERNATIONAL/GETTY IMAGES. LORDE: GREG HARRIS. TEEN VOGUE, 2014. DIANA ROSS: MOTOWN PRODUCTIONS/NIKOR
PRODUCTIONS/SUNSET BOULEVARD/CORBIS VIA GETTY IMAGES. ALIA SHAWKAT: COLUMBINE GOLDSMITH. VOGUE, 2016. TAMERA & TIA MOWRY: WALT DISNEY TELEVISION VIA GETTY IMAGES PHOTO ARCHIVES. VIOLA DAVIS: PAOLA
KUDACKI. GLAMOUR, 2018. GRACE JONES: ANGELO DELIGIO/MONDADORI PORTFOLIO VIA GETTY IMAGES. LUPITA NYONG’O: STEVE GRANITZ/GETTY IMAGES. ERYKAH BADU: AMANDA DEMME. NEW YORKER, 2016.OF BEA
T
S
UT
BE
Y
AW
2020
R
R
E
A
D N
WINBEAUTY SCHOOL
Wave tutorials and tools
abound. Yet, naturally
wavy girls can attest: It’s
not all a day at the beach.
WAVES
Coaxing hair into springy crimps takes finesse. ALL WASHED UP Pre-poo, no poo, low poo…
Most curly girls start styling in the shower, but Which poo is right for you?
hairstylist Lorraine Massey recommends those Pre-Poo: Tight curls and coils can benefit from
with waves squeeze out as much water as pos- treatments that prep for shampoo by moisturizing,
sible before adding product. “[Water] is weight detangling, and removing shed hair, says hairstyl-
bearing. So [hair] in its wet state is kind of loos- ist Stacey Ciceron. Try her DIY recipe: Mix one to
ened, and it’s going to dry in that state,” she says. two tablespoons of deep conditioner with six to
Massey likes bamboo fiber towels or reusable eight ounces of water, and a bit of oil—coconut,
construction paper, which you can find at places jojoba, or olive work well—in a water bottle, then
like Home Depot, rather than microfiber that spray hair in sections while finger combing.
sticks to hair like Velcro. Shampoo: Curly and kinky textures tend toward
Once hair is about 85 percent dry, add a sty- knots and dryness, which is why you should reach
ler, says hairstylist Irinel de León. “If your hair is for a gentle cleanser. Dermatologist Wendy Rob-
healthy, then you can probably go with some- erts recommends a shampoo every two weeks to
thing like a mousse or foam. If it’s compromised keep the scalp clear of buildup. Those with extra-
[by color] or damaged, a light cream will infuse dry hair can aim for less: Roberts advises cleans-
moisture back in,” de León explains. Instead of ing twice a month, once with a co-wash, and
using a raking motion, squeeze and scrunch. “Tilt another with shampoo. When it comes to sulfates,
your head forward, and slowly, like an accordion de León recommends avoiding sodium lauryl and
spring, go up [from the ends] to the roots,” says sodum laureth, which can strip natural moistur-
Massey. “When you let go, very gently, you’ll find izing oils. But there are sulfates, like behentrimo-
that you have this lovely shape.” You can also lock nium methosulfate, that are derived from canola
your waves in this shape overnight by “plopping.” oil and okay to use on curls, says de León. Try Brio-
“Flip your head upside down and put on a plastic geo Don’t Despair, Repair! Shampoo.
cap, or [wrap hair in] a cotton T-shirt, so your hair Co-wash: Co-wash stands for conditioner-only wash-
sits compressed on top of your head. [With wet ing, explains Roberts. If curls look dull or your scalp
plopping] the curls are forced to spring together feels dry, swap out shampoo for a cleansing con-
and upwards,” say de León. ditioner to help hair retain moisture and shine. Try Clockwise from top
Want more volume? Reach for a texture spray, Bumble and Bumble Curl 3-in-1 Custom Conditioner. left: Tresemmé Dry
not a salt spray, which can dry out hair. If you are Rinse: After cleansing, consider a rinse. Diluted Texture Finishing
looking for a beach wave effect, Massey prefers apple cider vinegar can smooth frizz and balance Spray, Living Proof
saline, the kind you might use in your eyes, for roots. your scalp’s pH. Tea rinses, according to Roberts, Humidity Shield,
She thinks saline isn’t as harsh: “If it’s good enough may promote hair growth by increasing scalp cir- Virtue Moisture-
for your eyes, it’s good enough for your hair.” —J.C. culation, and green tea specifically is packed with Defining Whip, and
nutrients like the humectant provitamin B5, which Ouai Wave Spray.
strengthens the hair cuticle. Try SheaMoisture
Power Moringa & Avocado Greens Hair Tea Rinse
for moisture, or DpHue Apple Cider Vinegar Hair
Rinse to treat a troubled scalp. —AMBER RAMBHAROSE
The Essentials
No outfit is complete without
accessories, and no curly routine
is finished without the proper
tools. If we travel to a desert
Pattern Wide-Tooth Comb. A Slip Large Scrunchie. At night,
island, we’re taking a backpack— detangling necessity. “With coils, a silk bonnet or pillowcase
just in case—because every one approach it from ends to root, maintains curls. For added stretch,
of these tools is a must-have for whether wet or dry, to [get] less use a scrunchie with one or two
maintaining textured hair. —J.C. breakage,” says Pekela Riley. ponytails, a.k.a. pineappling.
44 ALLURE NOVEMBER 2020Bouncy and boundless,
curly hair has tons of
personality—and quality
time is its love language.
CURLS
Ranging from the diameter of a large marker to A CUT ABOVE Wet or dry? Blown out or curly?
the size of a piece of chalk, curls require more When it comes to cutting curls, the only thing
moisture than waves. So prepare to spend a our experts agree on is there’s no one-size-fits-
lot of time in the shower and stock up on con- all answer.
ditioner. Hairstylist Pekela Riley recommends Curl by Curl: If you’re committed to a no-heat
applying gel or cream styler (or a mix of both) styling routine, a dry cut might be for you. “Curly
while hair is soaking wet. “The hair is fully mal- hair shrinks [when wet], and dry cutting helps pre-
leable at that point, super defined, and what- vent making the haircut too short,” says hairstylist
ever you create in that wet state is what it will Mona Baltazar. As a visual technique, a dry cut
be when it dries,” she says. Massey is a fan lends itself to enhancing overall shape. Baltazar
of the air-dry, or more accurately, the drip- requests clients arrive with naturally dried hair to
dry. “If you see drips, that means your hair has get a sense of their curl pattern.
been sufficiently hydrated. If you don’t drip, it When to Wet: Looser curls and waves can benefit
means your hair is holding onto the water, just from wet cutting as “shrinkage is more forgiving
like a camel. It’s 100 percent thirsty.” This is with this texture,” says Baltazar, and a wet cut can
common for those new to the curly lifestyle. provide a longer-lasting look with more structure.
One culprit could be too much shampooing, The Straight Debate: If you’ve got a coily or kinky
which can dry out curls. texture, consider starting with a blowout, says
If you don’t have time to drip-dry, use a blow- hairstylist Anthony Dickey. “Then I recurl the hair
dryer with a diffuser attachment on low speed in a wash-and-go and cut more, customizing the
and low heat. De León uses what she calls “the cut to the texture.” This two-step method allows
Beyoncé method” to dry: “Flip it like Beyoncé. for versatility if you want to vacillate between
Flip it to the left, flip it to the right, flip it upside straight and curly looks. —A.R.
down.” You can also use the finger-like prongs
of the diffuser to lift hair at the roots without Clockwise from top left:
disturbing curls (too much touching can cause TPH by Taraji Ride or Die
curls to frizz). A Detangling Leave-
One of the best parts of having curly hair is In Conditioner, Bread
that it generally looks better as the days pass. Beauty Supply Hair-Mask,
De León says that silk pillowcases, scarves, Kristin Ess Weightless
and bonnets are a necessity for nighttime. But Shine Curl Defining Jelly,
and Dove Amplified
hairstylist Tippi Shorter prefers “the pineap-
Textures Twist In Moisture
ple method” to bonnets, which can “crush the Shaping Butter Cream.
curls.” Use a silk scarf or scrunchie to pull hair
up into a high ponytail. “When you take it off, all
the hair that’s around the perimeter is further
stretched and all the curls on top are maintained
and intact,” she explains. In the morning, just
smooth on a bit of oil or cream. —J.C.
JOSEPHINE SCHIELE
Tangle Teezer The Ultimate Kristin Ess Do-It-All Sectioning Clips. T3 SoftCurl Diffuser. Our experts
Detangler. Tippi Shorter prefers to Not just for sectioning, you can use agree that a diffuser is useful for all
detangle with a brush because the clips to enliven limp curls. “Clip at the curl types. When combined with
bristles have give and movement root to create lift while you air-dry. It’ll the T3 Cura Dryer, this one locks in
that unravel knots and tangles. give you volume,” says Irinel de León. definition without creating frizz.You can also read
