WORKING TOGETHER FOR A BRIGHTER FUTURE - ISSUE 82 MARCH 2020 - Australian Wool Innovation

Page created by Ruby Reed
 
CONTINUE READING
WORKING TOGETHER FOR A BRIGHTER FUTURE - ISSUE 82 MARCH 2020 - Australian Wool Innovation
ISSUE 82 MARCH 2020
                                PROFIT FROM WOOL INNOVATION
                                               www.wool.com

WORKING
TOGETHER
FOR A
BRIGHTER
FUTURE

          08
    NORTH POLE
                          51
                 RHDV2 RABBIT           SMART TAGS PUT
                                                      53
     IN WINTER    CALICIVIRUS              TO THE TEST
WORKING TOGETHER FOR A BRIGHTER FUTURE - ISSUE 82 MARCH 2020 - Australian Wool Innovation
36 F
                                                                                                                                              LYSTRIKE
                                                                                                                                               VACCINE R&D

                                                                     20 P
                                                                         RINCE
                                                                           PROMOTES WOOL

EDITOR                                             OFF-FARM                                                      ON-FARM
Richard Smith
E richard.smith@wool.com
                                                    4    Review of Performance                                    32 Sheep of the future
CONTRIBUTING WRITER                                 4    Wool industry long term plan                             34 Good news on wool residues
Lisa Griplas
E lisa.griplas@wool.com                             5    Getting sporty in Japan                                  35 Measuring wool follicle density
                                                    6    Wool grows in sportswear                                 36 Flystrike vaccine research update
Australian Wool Innovation Limited
A L6, 68 Harrington St, The Rocks,                 7    Seamless Merino knitwear                                 38 Sheep flystrike risk factors
  Sydney NSW 2000
  GPO Box 4177, Sydney NSW 2001                     8    Dark Ice Project to cross the Arctic                    40 Parasite control: how do you compare?
P 02 8295 3100
E info@wool.com W wool.com                          10 International Woolmark Prize                               41 ParaBoss resources
AWI Helpline 1800 070 099                                                                                         42 Putting WormBoss into practice
                                                    12 Collaborative education initiative
SUBSCRIPTION                                        13 Karl Lagerfeld and Woolmark                                43 Parasite management plans
Beyond the Bale is available free.
To subscribe contact AWI                            14 Consumers urged to #buyfromthebush                        44 Is your WEC provider up to scratch?
P 02 8295 3100 E info@wool.com
                                                    15 Sleepy Merino pyjamas                                      45 New WEC test
Beyond the Bale is published by Australian                                                                       46 Merino Lifetime Productivity
Wool Innovation Ltd (AWI), a company
                                                    16 Sarah Jane Bond baby blankets
funded by Australian woolgrowers and the            18 SWOOLLY knitwear from WA                                   48 AWI flystrike publications
Australian Government. AWI’s goal is to help
increase the demand for wool by actively            19 Wool care is easy campaign                                49 New footrot resources
selling Australian wool and its attributes
through investments in marketing, innovation        19 Wardrobe.NYC’s timeless luxury                            50 National Wild Dog Action Plan
and R&D – from farm to fashion and interiors.       20 Prince promotes wool to textile trade                      51 RHDV2 rabbit calicivirus
COPYRIGHT                                           21 Students design Merino outerwear                           52 Coordinating wild dog control
Material in Beyond the Bale is copyright.
                                                    21 The Wool Lab expands                                       53 AWI smart tags put to the test
Reproduction of the material is encouraged.
However prior permission must be obtained           22 Click to buy with Farfetch                                 54 Improving pregnancy scanning adoption
from the Editor.
                                                    23 Fusalp’s après ski and chic urban knits                    55 Shearing handpiece to get smart
DISCLAIMER
To the extent permitted by law, Australian          24 Machine-washable wool suits                                56 WA shearing camp provides a future
Wool Innovation Ltd excludes all liability
                                                    24 AWI receives award in China                                58 Shearing shed design workshop
for loss or damage arising from the use of,
or reliance on, the information contained in
                                                    25 Wool moving onward in Japan                                59 Shearing competitions promote quality
this publication.
The Woolmark symbol is a certification mark         26 India gets crafty with wool                                59 Woolmark bale stencil
registered in many countries.
© 2020 Australian Wool Innovation Ltd. All          27 Wool grows at retail in Vietnam                           60 LambEx heads to Melbourne in July
rights reserved.
                                                    28 Indian students inspired by wool                           61 Students gain insights into ram health
ADVERTISING SALES                                   29 Wool4School’s 100,000 students
Steve Luxford, Pulse Hub Pty Ltd                                                                                  62 Fostering wool industry leaders
P 0429 699 553                                      30 Chanelle’s Wool4School journey
E steve.luxford@pulsehub.com.au
                                                                                                                  63 Future leaders’ optimism for wool
Advertising is subject to terms and conditions                                                                   64 Price risk management
published on the ratecard, which is available
from Pulse Hub.                                                                                                   66 EMI steadies and still historically high
ISSN                                                                                                              67 WoolQ
1447-9680                                          WOOL.COM
                                                                                                                  68 Coronavirus (COVID-19) outbreak in China
                                                   To subscribe to the free monthly AWI e-newsletter
FRONT COVER                                        for woolgrowers, and the weekly wool market review            70 Readers’ photos
A shearer training camp for young Ingenious        e-newsletter, visit www.wool.com/subscribe
Australians in the Mid-West region of Western
Australia has made them job ready for shed work,
thereby benefiting both the wool industry and      AWI INVESTMENT STRATEGIES
local communities. Read more on page 56.
                                                        Marketing      Sheep Production,
                                                                                                  Consultation
                                                                       Science & Technology                       		   feedback@wool.com
                                                        Processing Innovation
       This magazine is printed on PEFC                                                Traceability
                                                        & Education Extension
       (Programme for the Endorsement of                                                                         WOOLMARK.COM
       Forest Certification) paper stock.
                                                        instagram/BeyondTheBale                                        facebook.com/TheWoolmarkCompany

                                                        twitter.com/woolinnovation                                     instagram.com/TheWoolmarkCompany

                                                        youtube.com/AWIWoolProduction                                  twitter.com/woolmark

                                                        wool.com/podcast                                               youtube.com/TheWoolmarkCompany

                                                                                                                       View Beyond the Bale online at
                                                                                                                 BtB http://beyondthebale.wool.com

GD3719
WORKING TOGETHER FOR A BRIGHTER FUTURE - ISSUE 82 MARCH 2020 - Australian Wool Innovation
UPFRONT          3

GETTING ON WITH
BUSINESS
We are continuing with initiatives to help increase the                                                       Stuart McCullough
                                                                                                              Chief Executive Officer
demand for wool through investments in marketing and                                                          Australian Wool Innovation
R&D – from farm to fashion.

RECOVERING                                      Whether you are recovering from drought         1500-1600c EMI is good, but not great. I still
                                                and/or bushfire, I urge you take advantage      firmly believe that Merino is a $20-fibre,
FROM DROUGHT                                    of AWI resources. This includes utilising       because cashmere is a $120-fibre, and the
AND BUSHFIRE                                    the resources of the AWI-funded grower          fibre characteristics of cashmere and wool
The past few months have seen some              networks which run in each state: Sheep         are precisely the same. While cashmere
of the most dramatic climatic conditions        Connect in NSW, South Australia and             is slightly finer on average, Australia has
that Australia has seen. I have been deeply     Tasmania; Leading Sheep in Queensland,          Merino wools that are as fine as cashmere
concerned about the circumstances of the        BestWool/BestLamb in Victoria and The           and have a better length. I am very confident
many woolgrowers and rural communities          Sheep’s Back in WA. Their website and           that the EMI can reach heights of $20+ again.
that have not only been experiencing            contact details are at www.wool.com/            However, we are facing some tough global
the effects of ongoing drought conditions,      networks or call the AWI Helpline on            economic issues: international trade tensions
but also those of you who have been             1800 070 099.                                   such as those involving the US and China;
affected by the unprecedented scale of the                                                      weakened consumer demand for all goods
bushfires this season.                          AWI REVENUE AND                                 (not just wool); and now there are the
                                                EXPENDITURE                                     worries about the Coronavirus, although this
For a long time now, AWI has been proactive                                                     thankfully hasn’t had a significant effect on
                                                In the past 6-12 months, AWI’s revenue,
in providing support and information                                                            the wool market so far.
                                                which is largely dependent on wool levy
resources to woolgrowers in need. On
                                                income, has taken a hit. This is due to a
the AWI website at www.wool.com/                                                                It’s important we remain confident and
                                                combination of three things. Firstly, the
droughtresources, we make available a                                                           show resilience during this period of market
                                                reduction in the rate of wool levy from 2%
range of drought planning and management                                                        fluctuation. I strongly believe that the
                                                to 1½%, which came into effect on 1 July last   premium and natural qualities of our fibre
publications, webinar recordings and other
                                                year. Secondly, the fall in Australia’s wool    and the relationships we have built along
resources for woolgrowers going into,
                                                production caused by the drought. Thirdly,      the supply chain during the past decade
enduring or recovering from drought.
                                                the fall in the EMI that began about 10         ensures a positive outlook for Australian
We also provide links to useful external
                                                months ago resulting in the EMI now being       wool. At AWI, while we work to defend
resources and government agencies that
                                                about 25% down on the record prices we had      traditional markets like suiting, we are very
provide drought assistance. As this fire
                                                during 2018/19.                                 active in pursuing new and growing markets,
season began, we also made available on the
AWI website at www.wool.com/bushfires                                                           especially in sports and athleisure apparel,
                                                AWI operates in a lean, efficient and
a range of resources for woolgrowers to                                                         and in regions like the USA, where there is
                                                transparent manner, but just like any
prepare for and recover from bushfires.                                                         great potential to grow the market for wool.
                                                business with a reduced income, we have had

Thankfully, many parts of the country
                                                to make cutbacks in staffing and projects.
                                                                                                REVIEW OF
                                                While we have had healthy reserves, some of
have recently received some reasonable
                                                which we are using, the reality is that with
                                                                                                PERFORMANCE
falls of rain and green grass is returning to                                                   AWI is now 98% through implementing
                                                a reduced revenue we can’t provide the level
paddocks. While not everyone has received                                                       the recommendations of the company’s
                                                of R&D and marketing that we had done in
the same amount of rain and it’s probably                                                       independent Review of Performance (ROP).
                                                previous years. Nevertheless, rest assured
too soon to say that the drought has broken,                                                    To aid transparency with woolgrowers,
                                                that we are making sure that what we do is
the conditions for a lot of woolgrowers                                                         industry and Government, AWI’s online
                                                done for the maximum benefit of Australian
has improved, which is a great relief. Many                                                     Review of Performance Implementation
                                                woolgrowers.
woolgrowers will be considering purchasing                                                      Portal (ROPIP) has been available for all to
replacement sheep and restocking, or
                                                WOOL MARKET                                     view since we launched it in September 2018.
letting their stock out of containment                                                          It continues to provide detailed and up to
yards. For those woolgrowers, AWI provides
                                                AND PRICES                                      date information about the progress that
information resources for rebuilding in a       During the past few months, prices have         has been made by AWI in implementing the
considered way to maximise benefits and         begun to recover from the fall in the EMI       recommendations. See the next page and
avoid potential problems.                       that happened in mid-2019. The current          http://rop.wool.com for more details.
WORKING TOGETHER FOR A BRIGHTER FUTURE - ISSUE 82 MARCH 2020 - Australian Wool Innovation
4     UPFRONT

    REVIEW OF PERFORMANCE RECOMMENDATIONS
    AWI’S PROGRESS OF IMPLEMENTATION
    As part of AWI’s three-year business cycle, an independent           THEME IMPLEMENTATION PROGRESS
    review of performance (ROP) of AWI is routinely undertaken

                                                                                                                          100%*
    to assess the company’s performance. The latest ROP was                CONSTITUTION
    undertaken by Ernst & Young (EY) for the period 2015-2018.             24 out of 24 recommendations complete.
    EY’s report, which was published in July 2018, included 82
    recommendations.
                                                                                                                          97%*
                                                                           GOVERNANCE
    In September 2018, AWI launched its ROP                                20 out of 23 recommendations complete.
    Implementation Portal at rop.wool.com to provide

                                                                                                                          98%*
    detailed and up to date information to woolgrowers                     MONITORING EVALUATION
    about the progress made by AWI in implementing the 82                  & REPORTING
    recommendations. Displayed right is a summary of the                   13 out of 16 recommendations complete.
    overall progress, and the progress across each of the

                                                                                                                          100%*
    seven themes of the recommendations.                                   COLLABORATION
                                                                           3 out of 3 recommendations complete.
    Further information is available at
    rop.wool.com

                                                                                                                          98%*
                                                                           PEOPLE & CULTURE

    98%
                                                                           6 out of 7 recommendations complete.

                                                                                                                          90%*
                                                                           CONSULTATION
                                          AWI POSITION                     4 out of 5 recommendations complete.
    OVERALL
                                             Agree/ Industry
    IMPLEMENTATION                           agree (81)

                                                                                                                          96%*
                                                                           ROP RECOMMENDATIONS
    PROGRESS                                 For Shareholder
                                                                           & IMPLEMENTATION
                                             Consideration (1)
                                                                           2 out of 4 recommendations complete.

                                                                               * Percentage figure is calculated on the cumulative completion rate within each theme.
    (as at 11 February 2020)
                                                                                                           Remaining recommendations at various completion stages.
                                                                                                To view individual recommendation progress rates, visit rop.wool.com

    WOOL INDUSTRY LONG-TERM PLAN
    AWI’s Woolgrower                                   meeting, and these were grouped into the
    Consultation Group is to                           following nine main themes for discussion:
                                                       Genetics; Animal welfare and biosecurity;               WHAT IS THE
    develop a 10-year strategic
    plan for the Australian wool
                                                       Feral pests; Pastures, farming systems and
                                                       drought; Shearer and wool handler training;
                                                                                                               WOOLGROWER
    industry, in consultation                          Digital; Market intelligence and traceability;
                                                       Grower engagement; and Marketing.
                                                                                                               CONSULTATION
    with woolgrowers and
    other industry stakeholders.                       Consultation with wider industry                        GROUP?
    AWI will resource the                              stakeholders will be paramount throughout               AWI’s new consultation model was
                                                       the plan’s year-long development process. It
    development of the plan.                           is anticipated that this wider consultation
                                                                                                               developed with industry endorsement
                                                                                                               and rolled out last year. It enables AWI
                                                       process will include a combination of online            to ascertain the key R&D and marketing

    T   he Woolgrower Consultation Group               and phone surveys, one-on-one meetings,                 priorities of woolgrowers and industry.
        (WCG) held its first meeting on 15             workshops and regional meetings.                        It has two key forums through which
    November last year, which was attended by                                                                  AWI formally consults and engages with
                                                       One of the strong messages arising from
    representatives from 26 woolgrower groups                                                                  woolgrower representative groups.
                                                       the WCG meeting was the importance of
    as well as the Department of Agriculture,
                                                       attracting and mentoring young entrants to              Firstly, the AWI Woolgrower Industry
    together with AWI directors and managers.
                                                       the industry. This will mean ensuring gender            Consultation Panel (WICP) which
    One of the main purposes of the WCG                and age equity is evident within the WCG                is made up of national woolgrower
    meeting was to discuss the framework for           and will be achieved by each WCG member                 representative organisations, the
    a wool industry 10-year strategy (which            nominating a suitable second representative             Department of Agriculture, AWI and an
    will help guide AWI’s three-year Strategic         to mentor and join them as part of the WCG.             independent chair. The second forum,
    Plans). The development of a strategic                                                                     the AWI Woolgrower Consultation Group
                                                       AWI is facilitating the development of the
    long-term vision for the wool industry was                                                                 (WCG) is a broader group comprising
                                                       10-year industry plan, while the WCG is the
    one of the recommendations from the 2018                                                                   representatives of state and regional
                                                       principal oversight body for the project and
    Review of Performance.                                                                                     production-based woolgrower groups, as
                                                       will be the ones ultimately to approve the
                                                                                                               well as the members of the WICP.
    Members of the WCG were asked to supply to         plan. It is the intention that the plan will
    AWI their group’s research and development         be launched before the next AWI Annual                                       MORE INFORMATION
    (R&D) and marketing priorities prior to the        General Meeting (AGM) in November.                                     www.wool.com/consultation
WORKING TOGETHER FOR A BRIGHTER FUTURE - ISSUE 82 MARCH 2020 - Australian Wool Innovation
OFF        5
                                                                                                                                              FARM

A clip from a video by Lanvin Sport promoting its wool golfing apparel in Japan.                        A promotion of Munsingwear wool golfing apparel
                                                                                                        in Japan.

WOOL TEES
                                                                                                        business case so that we can extend
                                                                                                        our relationship with other brands of
                                                                                                        Descente Group in the future.”

OFF IN JAPAN
                                                                                                        THE THREE BRANDS
                                                                                                        Munsingwear is one of the famous golf
                                                                                                        wear brands in Japan for men and women.
                                                                                                        It is the third largest brand in the Descente
                                                                                                        Group with 150 stores and 500 wholesale
The biggest sportswear group in Japan has expanded the                                                  partners. Wool apparel promoted during
number of its products containing wool, thanks to a marketing                                           the recent campaign has included golfing
                                                                                                        jackets, jumpers, trousers and skirts.
collaboration with The Woolmark Company during the past
Autumn/Winter season as well as the upcoming Spring/                                                    Lanvin Sport is widely acknowledged as a
Summer season.                                                                                          high-end French golf wear brand in Japan
                                                                                                        and has 58 stores and 60 wholesale accounts.
                                                                                                        Wool jumpers and jackets have been

T   he Descente Group is the largest
    Japanese sportswear group with annual
sales of A$1.87 billion and it operates several
                                                      Australian wool-growing properties in 2018,
                                                      and close work with the various brand
                                                      managers, it decided to expand its use of wool
                                                                                                        promoted during the past winter season.

                                                                                                        Marmot is a well-known outdoor wear
major sports and outdoor apparel brands               and convey the story of the fibre to consumers.   brand for men and women in Japan, with
including golfing brands Munsingwear and                                                                sales mainly from 800 wholesale partners.
Lanvin Sport and outdoor brand Marmot.                “Through this collaboration with three            It is the first brand in Japan to use the
                                                      of Descente’s brands, we are marketing            100% Merino wool water and wind resistant
The Woolmark Company is supporting the                Merino wool as the best fibre for sports          Neulana Protect fabric made using OptimTM
promotion of nearly 100,000 pieces of wool            and outdoor activities, but also promoting        technology. Aside from wool jackets, other
and wool blend products of these three                Merino wool as a natural and earth-friendly       wool products promoted have included
brands during the Autumn/Winter season                fibre of choice,” said AWI Country Manager        long-sleeve T-shirts.
and upcoming Spring/Summer season.                    Japan Samuel Cockedey.
                                                                                                        MARKETING ACTIVITIES
Descente has in the past only used a small            “We are encouraging these three brands
amount of wool. However, following an                 to increase their use and marketing of            The marketing of the brands’ wool products
inspiring AWI-organised tour of several               wool whilst also creating a successful            includes print and digital channels as well
                                                                                                        as in-store promotion.

                                                                                                        Print advertorials promoting the wool products
                                                                                                        and educating readers about the natural origin
                                                                                                        and benefits of wool have appeared in the
                                                                                                        most famous and major newspaper in Japan,
                                                                                                        Nikkei, golf magazines and brochures.

                                                                                                        Digital promotion has included features on
                                                                                                        Descente’s and the brands’ own websites,
                                                                                                        the most famous outdoor/fashion website
                                                                                                        in Japan ‘Go Out Web’, as well as social
                                                                                                        media posts on Instagram and Facebook.

                                                                                                        In-store promotion at all 208 of Munsingwear’s
                                                                                                        and Lanvin Sport’s stores across Japan has
                                                                                                        included window displays, brochures, wool
                                                                                                        care guides, special swing tickets and digital
Marmot is the first brand in Japan to use the 100% Merino wool water and wind resistant                 signage, plus wool key ring mementos.
Neulana Protect fabric made using OptimTM technology.
WORKING TOGETHER FOR A BRIGHTER FUTURE - ISSUE 82 MARCH 2020 - Australian Wool Innovation
6     OFF
      FARM

MERINO AT ISPO
    Polar explorer George Bullard launching the Dark Ice Project on The Woolmark Company stand at the ISPO sports and outdoor trade show.

    With the industry’s continued focus on sustainability (sustainability is no longer a trend, it is
    an inherent aspect of the textile industry), the world’s leading sports and outdoor trade show
    ISPO was this year again the perfect opportunity for brands to drive demand for Merino wool.

    M    erino wool’s presence continues to
         increase in the rapidly growing sports
    and outdoor market. This was very much in
                                                      Merino wool, provided the starting point
                                                      for the kit’s development. A selection of the
                                                      garments was on show at The Woolmark
                                                                                                         wool and it won the award for its cushioning
                                                                                                         properties, comfort and sustainable approach.

    evidence at the ISPO trade show in January        Company’s stand at ISPO before they go             A seamless running shoe that has a knitted
                                                      through the final round of testing.                Merino wool inner layer won Italian company
    in Munich which attracted more than 80,000
                                                                                                         UYN a Gold Award in the Fitness & Team
    visitors from more than 120 countries.
                                                      Also on display on The Woolmark Company            Sports category. In the Outdoor category,
    Increased competition in the activewear           stand was a prototype yoga collection              Icebreaker won a Gold Award for its 100%
    market means a growing number of brands           illustrating the full potential of Merino wool     Merino wool Nature Dye 200 Oasis Long
    are looking to innovate with natural              in technical seamless performance apparel          Sleeve Crewe, while Italian company SALEWA
    performance fibres, such as Australian            (see page 7). Partnering with knitting machine     won an award for its Fanes Wool Powertex
    Merino wool. This move not only allows            manufacturer Santoni Shanghai and designed         Jacket for women.
    for a point of difference, but also fulfils       by innovative knitwear designers Studio Eva x
                                                      Carola, the seamless yoga collection was created   A new award category at ISPO this year
    the demands of environmentally-aware
                                                      using Merino wool yarn from Südwolle Group.        was the Brandnew category for newcomers
    consumers seeking a healthier lifestyle.
                                                                                                         to the sporting goods business. Founded
    AWI’s marketing arm The Woolmark                  The latest edition of AWI’s The Wool Lab           in 2018, Berlin-based label mvdham uses
    Company once again exhibited at ISPO,             Sport sourcing guide was again available for       only natural fibers, as is the case with its
    displaying innovative wool products – for         viewing, providing visiting manufacturers and      LAPALUE range that uses a padded two-
    activities such as yoga, hiking and cycling –     brands with direct access to the world’s most      layer fabric made from wool and silk, which
    and championing Australian wool’s natural         innovative technical performance fabrics and       won the company the ISPO Brandnew
                                                      yarns. The inaugural The Wool Lab Vision (see      award in the Urban Outdoor category.
    benefits and technical properties.
                                                      page 25) was also on show.
                                                                                                         Zhejiang Xinao Textiles of China won the
    In a major new initiative, The Woolmark
    Company along with adidas, BYBORRE                WOOL WINNERS                                       ISPO Textrends award for the Base Layer
    and GORE-TEX were announced as official           OF ISPO AWARDS                                     category for its Bundle yarn. The yarn is
                                                                                                         produced using Hybrid Spinning Technology
    technical partners for the ‘Dark Ice Project’,
                                                      Prestigious awards were won at ISPO by             where ultra-fine Merino wool together with
    an ambitious winter expedition to the
                                                      several companies for their wool innovations.      polyamide is ‘bundled’ together during the
    Arctic, strategised by three of Britain’s most
                                                      German company Alpina Sports won Product           yarn formation process. Circular knitted
    accomplished polar explorers – see pages
                                                      of the Year in the Snowsports category for its     fabrics and garments made from the Bundle
    6-7 overleaf. The four companies have been
                                                      Prolan Vest which is a back protector to help      quality yarn exhibit a high degree of wear
    tasked to design and create a kit to meet the     keep skiers or mountain bikers from injury.        performance while maintaining a smooth
    athletes’ physiological and environmental         It consists of three layers of pressed 100%        surface appearance.
    needs. The explorers’ fibre of choice,                                                               
WORKING TOGETHER FOR A BRIGHTER FUTURE - ISSUE 82 MARCH 2020 - Australian Wool Innovation
OFF        7
                                                                                                                                                  FARM

SEAMLESS
                                                                                                          wool has a wonderful soft touch. Choosing
                                                                                                          the right twist level is always a balancing act
                                                                                                          between the yarn’s hairiness and softness.

MERINO
                                                                                                          Next-to-skin clothing must be abrasion
                                                                                                          resistant and so a higher twist level is needed.”

                                                                                                          “The beauty and sophistication of this

KNITWEAR
                                                                                                          natural fibre means we can create styles
                                                                                                          with an unparalleled level of fineness and
                                                                                                          softness, creating innovative patterns and
                                                                                                          structures on a single finished fabric.”
                                                                                                                                  Leila Guo, Santoni

DESIGNED FOR
PERFORMANCE                                                                                               The collection was constructed using the
                                                                                                          latest seamless technology circular knitting
                                                                                                          machines from Santoni Shanghai. What
A new prototype yoga collection that illustrates the full
                                                                                                          started as a way to manufacture comfortable
potential of Merino wool in seamless performance apparel                                                  under garments, these machines are now
is being showcased to the textile trade by AWI’s subsidiary                                               opening new markets.
The Woolmark Company, with the aim to drive new growth                                                    “Seamless technology from Santoni Shanghai
opportunities for wool in sports and performance wear markets.                                            is key to creating graphics within the textiles,”
                                                                                                          explained Santoni Shanghai Marketing
                                                                                                          Director, Leila Guo. “When seams are removed,

M    erino wool is soft next to skin, breathable,
     naturally elastic and odour resistant,
making it ideal for stretch related activities like
                                                        and brands to use Merino wool in their own
                                                        seamless performance apparel, thereby
                                                        building demand for the fibre.
                                                                                                          fantastic results can be achieved; the garment
                                                                                                          attains a new level of comfort that is seldom
                                                                                                          found with conventional methods.
yoga. In addition, the eco-credentials of the
fibre – namely being 100% natural, renewable                                                              “Combining wool with Santoni Shanghai’s
                                                        “This innovative new concept yoga                 technology means we can create a unique
and biodegradable – align with yoga’s
connection with both nature and mindfulness.
                                                        collection draws on the form and                  touch experience with fine gauges, no seams
                                                        function of seamless construction whilst          and mindful engineering. Clothing has that
Seeing a gap in the market for seamless                 highlighting wool’s natural benefits and          all-important second skin effect that feels soft
yoga apparel made from Merino wool, The                 innate versatility.”                              and sensual against the skin.”
Woolmark Company’s processing innovation                                       Julie Davies, AWI
team introduced Merino wool to the state-of-                                                                                    MORE INFORMATION
the-art circular seamless knitting machines                                                                                  www.woolmark.com/yoga
of Santoni.                                             “With the increasing rise of mindful
Through rigorous product development, a                 consumption and the importance of health
12-piece collection was designed by innovative          and wellbeing, The Woolmark Company
knitwear design studio Eva x Carola, using              brought together a collection of like-minded
Merino yarn from Südwolle Group. Created                partners inspired by fitness and yoga’s
in a vibrant colour palette, the collection             connection with all things natural,” explained
includes leggings, crop tops and bras, racer-           AWI General Manager, Processing Innovation
back tank top and a T-shirt, all designed with          & Education Extension Julie Davies.
performance in mind.                                    The Woolmark Company works closely
The collection was launched at the sporting             with spinners to develop Merino wool and
textiles trade show Performance Days in                 wool-rich yarns for specific categories, such
Munich in November and continues to be                  as performance-wear, and in this way drives
shown by The Woolmark Company at other                  new growth opportunities for wool.
leading trade shows, including ISPO (see                Choosing the perfect yarn was a major
opposite). International trade shows are the            factor for the design of this collection,
ideal place to showcase the collection, with the        with Eva x Carola finding the right balance
aim to inspire the attending manufacturers              between pushing a next level three-
                                                        dimensionality in seamless products with
                                                        a certain level of performance, whilst also
                                                        retaining the right touch and feel.

                                                        The collection’s hero yarn is a superfine
                                                        15.5 micron Merino wool yarn from the
                                                        Südwolle Group.

                                                        “For our next-to-skin yarns we use superfine
                                                        Merino wool, ranging from 15.5 microns
                                                        upwards to ensure next-to-skin softness and
                                                        comfort,” said Michel Mastio, Director Circular
A prototype seamless yoga collection made               Knitting and Hosiery Yarns, Südwolle Group.
from Merino wool is being showcased by The
Woolmark Company at trade shows across the              “The persistent rumour that wool is itchy is
world to inspire brands to use the fibre in similarly   outdated and clothing made from this Merino
innovative ways in their own collections.
WORKING TOGETHER FOR A BRIGHTER FUTURE - ISSUE 82 MARCH 2020 - Australian Wool Innovation
8     OFF
      FARM

                                                  AN EXPEDITION
                                                  ACROSS THE ARCTIC
                                                  IN THE DARKNESS
                                                  OF AN ICY WINTER

    The three explorers taking part in the
    Dark Ice Project will trek across the North
    Pole in the total darkness of the Arctic
    winter, experiencing below -40o Celsius
    temperatures and hurricane-force winds.
    Luckily, they’ll be wearing Merino wool!

    FAST FACTS                                    The Woolmark Company with its Dark Ice Project partners is
                                                  creating the ultimate polar exploration garments for a trio of
    • The Dark Ice Project involves three         explorers who will travel across the Arctic to the North Pole in
      of Britain’s most accomplished
                                                  the dark of winter. The project provides a unique opportunity
      polar explorers embarking on a
      gruelling six-month expedition to           to showcase and ultimately commercialise innovative products
      collect vital scientific data from the      made from Australian Merino wool.
      Arctic Ocean and trek to the North
      Pole, all in the darkness of winter
      (hence the name ‘Dark Ice Project’).
      This is the first expedition of its kind    Imagine the North Pole in winter. -40o
                                                   Celsius, icy winds and complete darkness.
                                                                                                     of microplastics in the Arctic Ocean and
                                                                                                     measuring ice thickness to help understand
                                                                                                     climate change.
      and a unique venture.                       There are only a handful of polar expeditions
    • The Woolmark Company is an official         in history that have ventured into the polar       The three explorers – Alex Hibbert, George
      apparel partner of the Dark Ice Project     winter. However, in September this year,           Bullard and James Wheeldon – will set off
      and will bring together leading sports      three Britons will venture into the darkness       in September from northern Canada for the
      and technical apparel partners and          on an unassisted six-month journey, aiming         first phase of their expedition, a three-week
      manufacturers for the project. They         to get all the way to the geographical North       sail northerly on the Arctic Ocean. They will
      are developing an innovative Merino         Pole before the sun begins to rise six months      then drift in their boat while they undertake
      wool apparel system for each of the         later in March 2021.                               their scientific research, until January next
      explorers that will enable them to                                                             year when they will begin their ski/trek to the
                                                  More is known about the surface of the moon        North Pole. If they arrive at the North Pole by
      perform and ultimately, survive.
                                                  than the Arctic Ocean in winter, yet it provides   19 March 2021, they will be the first explorers
    • The project will help promote the           a key barometer to the health of our planet.       to reach the North Pole without resupply in
      performance and eco benefits of Merino      So this first-ever winter expedition is not only   polar winter conditions, before the sun rises.
      wool and drive product innovation that      about exploring new territory but also about
      can be commercialised at the end of         making fresh discoveries in environmental          The ski/trek phase will take up to 70 days
      the expedition.                             science, such as finding out the behavior          with the explorers usually trekking for 8-10
WORKING TOGETHER FOR A BRIGHTER FUTURE - ISSUE 82 MARCH 2020 - Australian Wool Innovation
OFF      9
                                                                                                                                                  FARM

The six-month expedition will commence in September this year, but the team have already tried out the kit on a pre-expedition trip to Canada to test and
refine the equipment and garments.

hours each day, in extreme cold reaching -40o       “Our clothing forms an essential part
Celsius and hurricane-force winds. Remember,        of this project; indeed, it allows us to             “The Dark Ice Project not only reinforces
the trek will also be in total darkness with no     survive in the harsh winter on the Arctic            The Woolmark Company’s commitment
sunlight during the winter months!                  Ocean,” said Dark Ice Project explorer               to championing innovation at the fibre,
                                                    George Bullard.                                      processing and garment stage, but also
The explorers’ kit and equipment will be
                                                                                                         highlights our dedication to promoting
key to their success. Such extreme                  “We are delighted to be able to build and
                                                                                                         best-practice to ensure minimal impact
conditions mean there are specific and              create specialised base- and mid-layer
                                                                                                         on the environment.”
exacting requirements for their garments,           garments that are not only sustainably
                                                                                                                      AWI CEO Stuart McCullough
such as wind and water resistance, durability,      sourced but also traceable from Australian
breathability, moisture management and              farms to the finished products. This ethos
maintaining thermal comfort.                        aligns seamlessly with ours.”
                                                                                                         The Dark Ice Project will not only garner
The Dark Ice Project draws on the                   The kit has currently undergone lab testing as       attention for the performance and eco
expertise of technical performance leaders          well as two rounds of extreme wear testing to        benefits of Merino wool amongst sports
The Woolmark Company, adidas Terrex,                ensure ultimate performance; the first being         and outdoor brands, the wider apparel trade
BYBORRE and GORE-TEX to design                      a series of high-tech environmental chamber          and global media, but it will also present
and create a kit to meet the athletes’              tests and the second during a one-month              new and innovative wool fabrications to the
physiological and environmental needs.              pre-expedition trip in northern Canada.              trade that can be commercialised for wider
                                                                                                         adoption. The expedition team’s scientific
Merino wool is the original performance             The wool single jersey base-layer developed
                                                                                                         investigations will also highlight and reflect
fibre and its technical benefits coupled            has successfully outperformed the single
                                                                                                         wool’s eco-credentials.
with its eco-credentials – it is 100% natural,      jersey base-layer previously worn by the
renewable and biodegradable – make it the           explorers, securing a reduction in total weight      “The Dark Ice Project not only reinforces
fibre of choice for the explorers’ kit.             of 18%, an increase in thermal resistance of         The Woolmark Company’s commitment to
                                                    26%, a 3% increase in breathability and the          championing innovation at the fibre, processing
                                                    dry time and drying rate improved by 28%             and garment stage, but also highlights our
“We are delighted to be able to build and
                                                    and 61% respectively. The base- and mid-             dedication to promoting best-practice to ensure
create specialised base- and mid-layer              layer fabrics have also undergone Woolmark           minimal impact on the environment,” said AWI
garments that are not only sustainably              quality assurance testing.                           CEO Stuart McCullough.
sourced but also traceable from Australian
farms to the finished products.”                    Feedback provided by the explorers based             “We are proud to have partnered with this
                           George Bullard,         on their experience on the pre-expedition            group of like-minded global leaders in
                  Dark Ice Project explorer         trip will be used to make any necessary              performance and innovation, challenging
                                                    changes to the final kit.                            and inspiring us in new and unique ways.” 

The Woolmark Company and textile
innovation studio BYBORRE have developed
a wool-rich base- and mid-layer system
from technical Merino yarns from the
Südwolle Group, providing next-to-skin
comfort, superior breathability and
enhanced protection from the elements.
By utilising innovative Merino wool yarns
and fabrics, the explorers are able to dress
lighter, without losing protective benefits
such as warmth.

Adidas Terrex has developed the
outerwear in collaboration with BYBORRE,
supported by The Woolmark Company
and GORE-TEX. The outerwear includes
weather protection technology from
GORE-TEX, along with a wool fleece lining
in the trousers and jackets for enhanced                                             The explorers at their base during pre-expedition testing in Canada.
thermoregulation, to be worn during the                                                    Their Merino garments include base-, mid- and outer-layers.
ski phase of the expedition.
WORKING TOGETHER FOR A BRIGHTER FUTURE - ISSUE 82 MARCH 2020 - Australian Wool Innovation
10     OFF
       FARM

 Models displaying the Merino wool garments by the 10 finalists in front of the crowds at the International Woolmark prize event in London.

  INTERNATIONAL
 WOOLMARK PRIZE During last month’s London Fashion Week, woolgrower Anthea Sutherland
         of ‘Pooginook’ presented this year’s International Woolmark Prize, the illustrious fashion
         competition that generates long-term demand for Australian Merino wool by connecting
                       emerging designers and consumers with our premium fibre.

                                                       level we see here tonight. Each and every              The Woolmark Company, the International
                                                       designer here tonight has done Australia’s             Woolmark Prize generates long-term demand
                                                       wool industry proud. I am so looking forward           for Australian Merino wool by increasing the
                                                       to going home and sharing this unforgettable           knowledge of and lifetime loyalty to the fibre
                                                       experience with other growers.                         amongst the competition’s designers and
                                                                                                              alumni around the globe.
                                                       “I would like to congratulate AWI on the
                                                       initiative of the International Woolmark Prize.        Furthermore, the phenomenal interest in
                                                       The encouragement and opportunity they                 these awards from fashion communities and
                                                       provide to young designers and countless               media globally has helped put wool back on
                                                       people across the fashion industry to empower          the agendas of a broader range of fashion
                                                       the use of our amazing, low impact, and                designers, manufacturers, brands and
                                                       traceable fibre is simply outstanding.”                retailers, and consequently into retail stores
                                                                                                              for consumers to purchase.
 Woolgrower Anthea Sutherland of ‘Pooginook’ with
 winning designer Richard Malone, to whom she          “Each and every designer here tonight has
 presented this year’s International Woolmark Prize.   done Australia’s wool industry proud.”
                                                                                                              THE 2019/20
                                                                                                              COMPETITION
 O        n an exciting February evening in                     Woolgrower Anthea Sutherland
          central London, more than 16,000km                                                                  To reinforce the origin of the fibre and the
                                                                                                              integrity of the supply chain used in the
     from the sheep paddocks of ‘Pooginook’ in
                                                       Anthea reinforced to the audience the natural          creation of the collections, each finalist
     the southern Riverina of NSW, woolgrower
                                                       eco credentials of Australian Merino wool.             was this year required to present ‘traceable’
     Anthea Sutherland had the distinction
                                                                                                              collections, using technology from platform
     of announcing the winner of the 2020
                                                       “From our unique and diverse landscape                 partner Provenance. By focusing on
     International Wool Prize in front of                                                                     transparency and sharing key product
                                                       is produced this exquisite and sustainable
     an audience comprising global fashion             fibre. Our passion and dedication to our
     celebrities, influencers and media.               sheep and to our land means we continue to
                                                       work with Mother Nature, not against her,
     “I am part of a fifth-generation wool-
                                                       to ensure our industry thrives in the most
     growing family, currently from Jerilderie
                                                       sustainable way possible.”
     in Australia, standing here in front of you
     at the International Woolmark Prize at            It was very fitting for an Aussie woolgrower
     London Fashion Week; what a privilege to          to present the award, given that the
     represent Australian woolgrowers here             International Woolmark Prize celebrates the
     tonight,” Anthea told the audience.               beauty and versatility of Australian Merino
                                                       wool, showcased in garments by outstanding
     “Many woolgrowers rarely have the                 emerging fashion designers.
     opportunity to see the end products created by                                                           Woolgrower Anthea Sutherland interviewed by
                                                       Relaunched in 2012 by AWI’s marketing arm,             Nine News’ Europe Correspondent Sophie Walsh at
     our precious fibre – especially at the stunning                                                          the International Woolmark Prize finals in London.
OFF       11
                                                                                                                                       FARM

information, each designer brings the             upbringing in Wexford to create considered,
supply chain to the shopper in a way that’s       functional and beautifully made garments
accessible and trustworthy.                       that minimise harm to the environment
                                                  and works towards creating a circular,
Also, for the first time this year, the 10
                                                  sustainable fashion system.
designers were supported by The Woolmark
Company’s Innovation Academy – a fast-            Eliminating traditional chemicals to
track mentoring and education program             provide a natural, less intensive method
helping brands implement best practices           of dyeing, the Irish designer worked with
to address environmental and social issues        a society of incredibly skilled weavers in
along with sustainable business growth.           Tamil Nadu, India, using completely organic
                                                  and plant-based dyes as well as more recent
The 2020 International Woolmark Prize
                                                  innovations using Merino wool.
also saw the introduction of the inaugural
Karl Lagerfeld Award for Innovation, in           “Winning the Woolmark Prize is completely
honour of the late icon and International         unexpected,” the designer said after the
Woolmark Prize alumnus who won the coat           show. “It means we can continue working
category in 1954.                                                                               Designer Emily Adams Bode (second from
                                                  with this supply chain and share our          right) with models wearing three looks from her
                                                  learning with other brands and designers.     award-winning Merino wool collection.
The Merino wool designs from the 10
                                                  It also opens up the dialogue of fashion so
finalists in this year’s competition – selected
from more than 300 applicants from 47             more people can be part of it.”               by stitch samples from a retired 1930s
countries across the world – were judged at                                                     knitting factory, and housecoats built from
the finals event in London by some of the         “Thank you to Australia’s woolgrowers for     hundreds of individually crocheted Merino
most respected fashion industry experts.          growing this incredible fibre.”               wool fleurettes.

"What I'm loving this year is the use of wool                                Richard Malone    “I’m really excited that this is the first Karl
mixed with sustainability,” explained judge                                                     Lagerfeld Innovation Award,” the designer
Edward Enninful OBE. "The Woolmark                                                              said. “He’s been such an idol and inspiration
Prize for me is a sign of excellence; it puts     WINNER OF THE                                 for me. I’m also really excited to build on all
designers on an international level.”                                                           the relationships I have made during my
                                                  KARL LAGERFELD                                Woolmark Prize journey.”
The competition also, once again, connected       AWARD FOR
with leading industry taste-makers, such          INNOVATION                                                         MORE INFORMATION
as actor Colin Firth and Vogue Australia's        The USA’s Emily Adams Bode of BODE
                                                                                                                   www.woolmarkprize.com
fashion director Christine Centenera, as
                                                  was crowned the first winner of The Karl
ambassadors for the award.
                                                  Lagerfeld Award for Innovation and was
Finalist collections will be available for        praised for outstanding creativity and          INTERNATION
commercialisation in September 2020 via
the International Woolmark Prize retail
                                                  innovation, the same characteristics which
                                                  led to Lagerfeld’s history-making success
                                                                                                  WOOLMARK PRIZE
network which includes David Jones,               back in the 1954 awards.                        AT A GLANCE
Mytheresa.com, Matchesfashion.com,
                                                  Mixing left over fabrics found in               •   Connecting the world’s leading
Takashimaya and Lane Crawford.
                                                  abandoned factories, BODE beautifully               fashion designers with Australian
                                                  marries the old with new to bring modern
WINNER OF THE                                     interpretations to traditions of the past.
                                                                                                      Merino wool is extremely important
                                                                                                      due to the enormous influence
INTERNATIONAL                                     For the International Woolmark Prize,               these designers have in setting
WOOLMARK PRIZE                                    BODE featured overcoats and suits                   global textile trends for
The winner of this year’s International           composed of reclaimed and remade equine             mainstream retail brands.
Woolmark Prize is Ireland’s Richard Malone        show blankets, traceable and certified
who created a collection inspired by his          Merino wool jacquard knits inspired             •   Every year, the designers develop
                                                                                                      and present the most innovative
                                                                                                      collection, made from at least 70%
Designer Richard Malone                                                                               Australian Merino wool.
(second from right) with
models wearing three looks                                                                        •   Since its relaunch in 2012, more
from his award-winning                                                                                than 500 of the award’s participating
Merino wool collection.                                                                               designers from across the world have
                                                                                                      received an extensive wool education
                                                                                                      from product development to sourcing.
                                                                                                  •   The competition’s alumni
                                                                                                      (designers and judges) are imbued
                                                                                                      with a love of wool that often
                                                                                                      translates into their subsequent
                                                                                                      collections being wool-rich.
                                                                                                  •   The designs are judged by some
                                                                                                      of the most famous and respected
                                                                                                      authorities on fashion, and presented
                                                                                                      in front of the world’s media.
                                                                                                  •   The winning collections are stocked
                                                                                                      by the program’s retail partners,
                                                                                                      some of the world’s most prestigious
                                                                                                      department stores and boutiques.
12     OFF
       FARM

 EDUCATION INITIATIVE INSPIRES A

 BESPOKE WOOL
 COLLABORATION
 The two judges of last
 year’s TexSelect graduate
 design prize, sponsored by
 The Woolmark Company,
 were so impressed with the
 winner’s woven designs that
 they subsequently chose to
 use the fabrics in a unique
 collaboration.

 A        WI last year sponsored an award at the
          UK’s leading graduate design prize to
     encourage the use of Merino wool by the
     UK’s textile graduates. Entrants for The
     Woolmark Company TexSelect Award had              September 2019: TexSelect judges Edward Crutchley and Alan Scott seeing the woven wool fabric
     to incorporate a minimum of 60% Merino            designs of Jaeyong Kim for the first time, at the Première Vision trade show in Paris.
     wool into their collections and demonstrate
     a good understanding of the fibre’s qualities     a bespoke collaboration between Jaeyong            they were able to adapt and simulate the
     and potential application in fabric.              Kim, Johnstons of Elgin, Edward Crutchley          chosen designs ready for production.
                                                       and The Woolmark Company – that would
     The award was judged by the 2019                  result in several of Jaeyong’s designs being       “During the visit it was a chance for us at
     International Woolmark Prize menswear             incorporated into Edward’s Autumn/Winter           Johnstons to share with Jaeyong the process
     and Innovation Award winner Edward                2020/21 Ready to Wear collection showcased         of designing and creating in an industry
     Crutchley and Creative Director of luxury         at London Fashion Week Men’s in January.           setting,” said Johnstons designer, Beth Wilson.
     brand Johnstons of Elgin, Alan Scott. Central                                                        “Collaborating with Jaeyong was great, with
     Saint Martins’ graduate Jaeyong Kim won
     the award, praised for the complexity and
                                                       WOVEN WOOL                                         such creativity and a keen eye for detail, the
                                                                                                          process was seamless working on three design
     brilliance of his woven designs.
                                                       COLLABORATION                                      ideas for manufacture.”
                                                       Three fabrics from Jaeyong’s collection were
     “You look closely at the work and see how         industrialised by Johnstons of Elgin. Jaeyong      On the second visit to Johnstons, Jaeyong saw
     different it is, how sophisticated,” Alan Scott   had the opportunity to visit the company’s         all three fabrics in production during a bespoke
     said at the award ceremony at September’s         historic mill in Scotland twice. Firstly, on       VIP mill tour. The collection consisted of:
     Première Vision trade show in Paris. “Colour,     7 November to translate his designs into
     proportion, technique. Stacks of stuff,                                                              • A tailoring fabric featuring a check design
                                                       fabrics for the collection, and secondly on 10
     beautifully designed, and with a modern edge.                                                          made from 100% wool.
                                                       December to see the fabrics in production.
                                                                                                          • A Blazer weight jacquard fabric created using
     “He could be employed in a second, but he’s       On the first visit, Jaeyong worked with the          an interchanging double cloth structure
     already a designer in his own right.”             Johnstons of Elgin design team to discuss            made from 100% extrafine Merino wool.
                                                       colour, yarn and structure before moving to
     Alan’s words were to prove more true than                                                            • A coating weight fabric in a stripe design
                                                       the computer-aided design (CAD) area where
     he realised, as the comments foreshadowed                                                              constructed using 100% lambswool.

                                                                                                          January 2020: Two of Edward Crutchley’s designs
     December 2019: Alan Scott with TexSelect Award winner Jaeyong Kim, seeing Jaeyong’s woven wool       using fabric designed by Jaeyong Kim, on show at
     designs brought to life on an industry scale at the Johnstons of Elgin mill in Scotland.             London Fashion Week Men’s.
OFF      13
                                                                                                                                          FARM

Edward subsequently invited Jaeyong
to his studio in London to see the final
garments and assist with fitting/styling.
Jaeyong was also invited backstage
during Edward’s show on 4 January
during London Fashion Week to see two
of his designs launched on the catwalk.
The third will be used by Edward in his
Spring/Summer 2021 collection.

“Everyone loved the fabrics and they
really added to the collection,” Edward
said. “Working with Jaeyong and
Johnstons allowed us to add extra
dimensions of texture and detail into
the collection whilst at the same time
celebrating how versatile wool can be.”

Edward’s overall collection featured
approximately 75% wool, which
reflects the success of the International
Woolmark Prize in imbuing designers
with a knowledge and love for wool that
continues through their careers. The
collection was also shown in January
as part of the British Fashion Council’s
‘London SHOW rooms’ initiative in
Milan in collaboration with the National
Chamber of Italian Fashion.                 Each Knit Karl box contains one of four unisex Lagerfeld designs: a pullover, cap, headband or scarf.

A UNIQUE
EXPERIENCE
Edward helped create a truly unique
and unforgettable experience for            KARL LAGERFELD
                                            AND WOOLMARK
Jaeyong Kim. Following the journey
of fabric design, production, garment
to catwalk has been invaluable for
Jaeyong who has been overwhelmed
with the support he has received from
all parties involved.                       A TRIBUTE TO CELEBRATE
“I went to Edward’s studio whilst they
were doing styling, during which it was
                                            KARL’S LIFE AND LEGACY
great to see the fabrics working their
way into the collection,” Jaeyong said.     Sharing a history dating back to 1954, KARL LAGERFELD and
“Edward’s show was wonderful; I was         The Woolmark Company last month introduced 777 limited-
able to go backstage and see everything     edition ‘Knit Karl’ boxes including pure Australian Merino yarn,
up close. He has been helpful and
                                            personalised knitting needles, and patterns for winners to create
supportive throughout, even when so
busy with preparations.
                                            one of four exclusive designs imagined by Karl Lagerfeld.

“I really thank The Woolmark Company

                                            B
for helping set up this opportunity; it         reaking down borders, everyone across            In 2018, the idea of a collaboration with The
definitely wasn’t something I imagined          the world was invited to take part in            Woolmark Company was born and together
possible before graduation. I’m very        a digital scavenger hunt, searching for a            the two companies developed the initial
much looking forward to the next steps.”    unique code for the chance to win a limited          phases of this special project. Furthermore,
                                            edition Knit Karl box. There were 777 knit           beginning with the Autumn 2020 collection,
Johnstons of Elgin also said the                                                                 all KARL LAGERFELD knitwear will be made
                                            boxes created – an ode to the iconic designer’s
collaboration was very productive.          favourite number. The competition ran from           using Woolmark-certified premium wool.
“It has been a great experience             7 February until 7 March, with the exclusive
                                                                                                 “This entire year we have launched
                                            codes to be entered at www.knitkarl.com.
working through this project with                                                                special projects and initiatives to celebrate
The Woolmark Company, Jaeyong               Both Karl Lagerfeld and his namesake brand           Karl’s life and legacy,” said Caroline Lebar,
and Edward,” said Johnstons of Elgin        share a longstanding relationship with The           Head of Image and Communications at
Design Manager, Louise Sullivan.            Woolmark Company. The late designer first            KARL LAGERFELD. “As Karl’s first-ever
“It was a real testament to the             rose to fame after he won the 1954 Woolmark          creation was for the Woolmark Prize in
collaborative philosophy that can be        Prize in the coat category. Then just 21             1954, it feels appropriate to celebrate his
found in our industry, and we’re really     years old, the win launched the start of his         life with this collaboration with The
proud at Johnstons to have had the          extraordinary career that would change the           Woolmark Company.”
opportunity to be involved.”               face of fashion.
14     OFF
       FARM

 CONSUMERS URGED TO
 BUY FROM THE BUSH
     The impacts of the drought                     IRIS + WOOL
     and bushfires are being felt
     well beyond the farm gate in all                                                                  the twenty rural-based companies invited
     parts of the regional economy,                                                                    to Martin Place.
     including retail trade and                                                                        “Wowsers, Sydney really embraced us
     small businesses. As a result,                                                                    bush businesses; it was quite incredible!
     Australian consumers are                                                                          You could see in their eyes how much they
     being urged to support local                                                                      cared and really wanted to support us
                                                                                                       all – and this showed at the end of the day
     growers and manufacturers                                                                         with many of the businesses selling out of
     more than ever.                                                                                   stock,” Emily said, after returning to Burra.

                                                                                                       “I’m still pinching myself – it exceeded
                                                                                                       all my expectations as I’m quite a high
 T       o help the economies of rural
         communities, many of which are
     affected by drought and bushfires, there
                                                                                                       price point but that didn’t put many off.
                                                                                                       I completely sold out of all size S and M
                                                                                                       and have only a few L and XL left. What
     have been widespread calls for city-
                                                                                                       a dream for our first ever collection. It’s
     dwelling Australians to visit rural and
                                                                                                       really put us in good stead to continue
     regional communities and spend their
                                                                                                       on as a lifestyle brand that’s passionate
     money on local services and products,
                                                                                                       about showcasing farm to fashion.
     be it a bed and meal at the local pub
     or a souvenir from the local store.            Emily Riggs (wearing the iris + wool Eurovale      “Thank you to Grace and team from
                                                    top) after returning home to the farm at Burra     #buyfromthebush. I am forever indebted
     Other initiatives have enabled businesses      after participating in the #buyfromthebush         to you. I loved meeting all of the other
     in drought-affected communities to             pop-up market in Sydney, pictured here with
                                                                                                       businesses too – we have such clever
     showcase their products more broadly           her woolgrower husband and son Sam.
                                                                                                       creative people in the country!”
     online for consumers, bridging the
     divide between city and country. These         Emily Riggs of Merino wool knitwear
                                                                                                       iris + wool was featured in the September
     initiatives include the NSW Government’s       brand iris + wool, based at Burra in the
                                                                                                       2019 edition of Beyond the Bale.
     ‘Buy Regional’ campaign (www.nsw.gov.au/       mid-north of South Australia, was one of
     buy-regional) and Senator Hollie Hughes’
     ‘Go Country for Christmas’ initiative
     (www.gocountryforchristmas.com.au).            SARAH JANE BOND
     Another prominent initiative is the
     #buyfromthebush campaign, which was                                                               products. The response from the Sydney
     launched as an Instagram account in                                                               public was overwhelming,” Vanessa said.
     October last year by Grace Brennan, a
     lady from a sheep and cropping property                                                           “The idea of inspiring people in the city
     in Warren, NSW. In the first six weeks,                                                           to buy from the bush has bridged the
     $2.6 million of revenue was generated for                                                         divide between city and country and has
     businesses featured on its social media                                                           had a real impact both financially and
     pages. The campaign now has more than                                                             emotionally. The initiative has provided
     220,000 followers on Instagram, with 194,000                                                      a sense of purpose as well as a second
     followers on Facebook and its own website                                                         income to many in the bush.
     www.buyfromthebush.com.au. That's
                                                                                                       “The drought is catastrophic, and this
     about 400,000 potential customers 'buying
                                                                                                       was a remarkable opportunity to speak
     in' to bush business. It is reported to have
                                                                                                       firsthand with people in the city about
     increased rural postage figures by 40%.
                                                                                                       what we are going through. The genuine
     Another component of the                       Vanessa Bell of Sarah Jane Bond on her stall       love and support was incredible and I still
     #buyfromthebush campaign that                  in Martin Place, being interviewed for the ABC’s   get emotional even thinking about it.
                                                    live breakfast show.
     exemplified the affinity between city and
                                                                                                       “I feel it is absolutely brilliant urban
     country was the #buyfromthebush pop-
                                                    Vanessa Bell of Merino wool baby                   consumers are now aware of the incredible
     up market that was held in Martin Place
                                                    blanket brand Sarah Jane Bond (see                 products, creativity and innovation the
     in Sydney on Thursday 12 December. 20
                                                    page 16), based at Breadalbane in                  bush has on offer, and have consciously
     retailers based in the bush were invited
                                                    NSW, was another of the rural-based                changed their buying behaviours.
     to participate and set up stalls in Martin
                                                    companies invited to participate in the
     Place to sell their products to city folk,                                                        “My business was immediately propelled,
                                                    #buyfromthebush pop-up market.
     from 8am to 8pm.                                                                                 and I certainly didn’t expect to be
                                                    “We did the bush proud with every store            interviewed twice for the ABC’s live
                       MORE INFORMATION             representing beautifully made and unique           breakfast show which was tremendous.”
                www.buyfromthebush.com.au
OFF        15
                                                                                                                                                   FARM

WAKE UP TO
SLEEPY MERINO
Sleepy Merino is a new sleepwear brand launched by a                                                        of Merino wool's unique properties,” Julie said.
Merino woolgrower near Inverell in NSW, whose property                                                      The current range includes three styles of
has been severely affected by drought. The brand was set up                                                 women’s pyjama top (flutter sleeve, short
as a drought diversification business and sells pyjamas that                                                sleeve and long sleeve), sleep pants, sleep
                                                                                                            shorts and a long sleeve sleep shirt. They are
are made in Australia from 100% Australian Merino wool.
                                                                                                            available in a range of sizes and colours (red,
                                                                                                            grey, charcoal and navy).

                                                                                                            Soon to be launched are a men's pyjama
                                                                                                            range, a new women’s flutter sleeve sleep
                                                                                                            shirt, some new colours and women’s and
                                                                                                            men’s sheepskin slippers.

                                                                                                            The brand uses 100% Australian Merino wool
                                                                                                            jersey fabric of 18.9 to 19.9 micron. It has a
                                                                                                            weight of 145gsm, which is perfect for both
                                                                                                            winter and summer use.

                                                                                                            The garments are manufactured in
                                                                                                            Australia by OCC Apparel in Sydney, which
                                                                                                            is experienced in manufacturing Merino
                                                                                                            wool active wear and underwear. OCC’s
                                                                                                            Merino wool fabrics comply with Woolmark
                                                                                                            specifications and are machine washable.

                                                                                                            Sleepy Merino was launched in Inverell, in
                                                                                                            conjunction with the local Eat Drink Live
                                                                                                            New England Festival in November.

                                                                                                            “We held a fashion parade at a Wine and
                                                                                                            Canapes event, and a market stall. Despite
                                                                                                            the tough times in our region, the local
                                                                                                            community has been very supportive of
                                                                                                            the new business, and lots of pyjamas were
                                                                                                            purchased for Christmas presents,” Julie said.

                                                                                                            The brand’s garments are all available to
                                                                                                            purchase online at sleepymerino.com.au,
                                                                                                            reaching international as well as Australian
                                                                                                            markets. “Our Aussie made Merino wool
                                                                                                            pyjamas are proving popular in Britain, and
                                                                                                            one lady is going to hike across USA with our
Local Inverell girls modelling Sleepy Merino’s flutter sleeve pyjama top and sleep shorts on                sleep shirt,” Julie said.
Julie Bird’s property, which in the photo is showing the effect of a bit of recent and very welcome rain.
                                                                                                            The brand is also aligned with the

T   he drought has hit rural Australia
    badly, very badly – and Inverell in
northern NSW has been suffering as
                                                        close their doors in our town, including the
                                                        big end of town.”
                                                                                                            #buyfromthebush, ‘Buy Regional’ and ‘Go
                                                                                                            Country for Christmas’ campaigns – see
                                                                                                            opposite page.
terribly as anywhere. The area has also                 If ever there was a time or motivation for those
endured bushfires this summer.                          in the bush to consider business diversification    “These initiatives are really helping regional
                                                        then now is that time. “Like many farmers,          businesses to stay afloat and helping this
“Times are tough in the bush here in NSW                we have had to think outside the square for         farming family keep feeding stock.”
– we are in the grip of the worst drought               additional income options,” Julie said.
in living memory,” says local Merino                                                                        Last month, Sleepy Merino travelled
woolgrower Julie Bird.                                  Julie started to investigate other enterprise       to Brisbane with its full range to sell at
                                                        opportunities. She had always loved wearing         the MindBodySpirit Festival, Australia’s
Julie’s family runs Merino sheep producing              Merino wool, such as active wear, knits and         largest health and wellbeing event. Later
17-18 micron wool, on 2,000 hectares of mostly          underwear, but she couldn't easily source adult     this month they will be attending the
native pasture, shrubs and trees. Due to the            Merino sleepwear or pyjamas. Seeing a gap in        MindBodySpirit Festival at Darling Harbour
drought, the family has had to destock many             the market, she decided to set up a new apparel     in Sydney (12-15 March). Sleepy Merino also
of its livestock.                                       brand – and so Sleepy Merino was born.              sells at markets local to Inverell.
“But it is not only the farmers being affected          “Sleepy Merino builds on my passion for                                  MORE INFORMATION
by the drought. We have had many businesses             Merino wool, and pyjamas are a fantastic use                         www.sleepymerino.com.au
You can also read