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WorldView
FALL 2018
Vol. 31 No. 3
worldviewmagazine.org
CLIMBING
MT. KAILASH
CAMPING IN SOWETO
CLINIC WITH TOO MANY DOORS
TRUCKERS , SEX WORKERS
& OTHER HEALTH REPORTS
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Fall 2018
WorldView Volume 31, Number 3
Editor: David Arnold
Publisher: Glenn Blumhorst
Director of Communications: Meisha Robinson
Contributing Editor: John Coyne
Contributors: A magazine of news and comment about the Peace Corps world
Marc Altman Phil Lilienthal
Gareth Bentley Gabriela Lopez
Glenn Blumhorst Emily McGinnis
Kevin Bubriski Rafael Perez
Dave Chidley Jennifer Smith
Joe Coca Martín Vega Orrego
SIPHIWE SIBEKO/REUTERS
Susan Schaefer Davis Meisha Robinson
Ken Hill Siphiwe Sibeko
Aaron Hochman- Jack Swenson
Zimmerman Carolyn Yale
Vicki Huddleston Taryn Vian
Robin Landis Angene Wilson
WORLDVIEW ADVERTISING
Address all questions regarding interest in advertising
in WorldView or NPCA social media and other
online opportunities to Scott Oser at advertising@
peacecorpsconnect.org
WorldView (ISSN 1047-5338) is published four
times per year (Spring, Summer, Fall and Winter) by
National Peace Corps Association (located at 1900 L
Street, NW, Suite 610, Washington, DC 20036-5002)
to provide news and comment about communities
and issues of the world of serving and returned
Peace Corps Volunteers. WorldView © 1978 National
Peace Corps Association.
Periodicals postage paid at Washington, D.C.
& additional mailing offices.
POSTMASTER
Please send address changes to
WorldView magazine
National Peace Corps Association
1900 L Street NW, Suite 610
Washington, DC 20036-5002
Residents of the vast and underserved former township of Soweto.
EDITORIAL POLICY
Articles published in the magazine are not intended
to reflect the views of Peace Corps, or those of GLOBAL HEALTH
National Peace Corps Association, a nonprofit
mission-driven social impact organization mobilizing
those whose lives are influenced by Peace Corps.
NPCA is independent of the federal agency, Peace
9 CAMPING IN SOUTH AFRICA 17 MED SCHOOL ACROSS BORDERS
Can a boy raised at Maine’s Camp Winnebago An emergency medical technician in the Bronx
Corps.
create the same experience for children in studies to be a doctor in a global classroom
Soweto a few decades later? By Aaron Hochman-Zimmerman
EDITORIAL SUBMISSIONS
By Phil Lilienthal
Send all communications regarding WorldView
19 CENTER WITH TOO MANY DOORS
magazine to worldview@peacecorpsconnect.org.
We will consider article proposals and speculative 13 HEALTHY TRUCKERS A PCV launched her anti-corruption career
submissions. We also encourage letters to the editor The World Health Organization fought to when she applied for Canadian pounds to
commenting on specific articles that have appeared reduce the HIV/AIDS epidemic on African finish a health center in Cameroon’s Méfou
in the magazine. All texts must be submitted as
highways by converting 50 shipping containers Department
attached Word documents. For more details on writer
guidelines go online to www.peacecorpsconnect.org/
into all-purpose health centers in 13 countries By Taryn Vian
cpages/submission-guidelines or email the editor at By Robin Landis
darnold@peacecorpsconnect.org.
SUBSCRIPTIONS
In order to subscribe to WorldView magazine for $35
go online to www.peacecorpsconnect.org and click
on Join Now. COVER: A girl climbs a network of ladders in her village of Thehe in Nepal’s Nyin Valley. The
If you need to contact NPCA regarding a magazine photograph was taken by Kevin Bubriski for his book, Kailash Yatra, A Long Walk to Mt Kailash
subscription or other matters, call (202) 293 7728 through Humla, published by Penguin India, Ltd. appears with permission. See pages 25 to 30.
ext. 15.
WorldView ∙ Fall 2018 ∙ www.PeaceCorpsConnect.org | 1
THE PUBLISHER
The publisher of WorldView magazine is National Peace
Fall 2018 Corps Association, a national network of Returned Peace
Volume 31, Number 3 Corps Volunteers, former staff and friends. NPCA is a not-
for-profit 501(c)(3) educational and service organization
which is independent of the federal agency, Peace Corps.
ADVISORY COUNCIL
Carol Bellamy, Chair, Education for All—Fast Track Initiative
Ron Boring, Former Vice President, Vodafone Japan
Nicholas Craw, President, Automobile Competition Committee
for the U.S.
A magazine for the greater Peace Corps community Sam Farr, Former Member, U.S. House of Representatives,
California
John Garamendi, Congressman, U.S. House of
DEPARTMENTS Representatives, California
Mark Gearan, Director, Institute of Politics, Harvard Kennedy
School
Tony Hall, Former Member of U.S. House of
Representatives, Ohio; Former U.S. Ambassador to UN Food
PRESIDENT’S LETTER GALLERY floating in the Gulf, a State and Agriculture Organization
Department diplomat quietly Sandra Jaffee, Former Executive Vice President, Citigroup
3 Our Emerging Stregnth 25 Kailash Yatra distributed transistor radios William E. “Wilber” James, Managing General Partner,
RockPort Capital Partners
with a pretty big bandwidth.
John Y. Keffer, Chairman, Atlantic Fund Administration
Inspired new leadership rises Scholars, artists, geographers By Vicki Huddleston Virginia Kirkwood, Owner/Director, Shawnee Holdings, Inc.
from Connect conference and anthropologists study Richard M. Krieg, President and CEO, The Horizon
By Glenn Blumhorst change on a sacred mountain Foundation
TRAVEL Kenneth Lehman, Chairman Emeritus, Winning Workplaces
landscape across Nepal’s
C. Payne Lucas, Senior Advisor, AllAfrica Foundation
China border
LETTERS
Photographs and text
38 On Camels & Cobblestones Dennis Lucey, Vice President, TKC Global
Bruce McNamer, President & CEO, The Community
4 Let’s have more group by Kevin Bubriski Some of the most popular
Foundation for the National Capital Region
Gordon Radley, Former President, Lucasfilms
news, Praise for One Acre destinations for RPCVS on John E. Riggan, Chairman Emeritus, TCC Group
Fund, and some corrections. CULTURE NOTES this itinerary are erg Chebbi, Mark Schneider, Senior Advisor, Human Rights Initiative
and Americas Program, CSIS
Marrakesh, the Fes medina,
Donna Shalala, President, Clinton Global Foundation
OUR IMPACT 31 Bold Weavers and the ruins of Volubilis. Paul Slawson, Former CEO, InterPacific Co.
Welcome to Morocco with Next F. Chapman Taylor, Senior Vice President and Research
6 NPCA offers affiliate a An economic development Step Director, Capital International Research Inc.
consultant’s favorite enterprise Joan Timoney, Director for Advocacy and External Relations,
platform By Angene Wilson Women’s Refugee Commission
By Meisha Robinson is the outspoken women who Ronald Tschetter, President, D.A. Davidson & Co.
quietly weave rugs in N’kob, Gaddi Vasquez, Senior Vice President, Government Affairs,
FIELD REPORTS Edison International
Ben Smim and dozens of other
CASE STUDY villages in Morocco. Aaron Williams, Executive Vice President, RTI International
By Susan Schaefer Davis
41 Agile in Lima Development Group
22 Iran Advocates Harris Wofford, Former U.S. Senator, Pennsylvania
When Johnson & Johnson BOARD OF DIRECTORS
An affiliate really got going BOOKLOCKER sends corporate experts to the Maricarmen Smith-Martinez, Sandra Bunch
long after Peace Corps closed aid of a health NGO in Peru, Chair Bridget Davis
down the program 35 My Little Radios the official guide to dialect, Jed Meline, Vice Chair Elizabeth Genter
Patrick Fine, Treasurer
By Carolyn Yale food, dialect and acronyms is Rhett Power, Secretary
Corey Griffin
While the United States and an expert RPCV. Chip Levengood
Mariko Schmitz, Affiliate
Cuba quarreled over who Katie Long
By Emily McGinnis Group Network Coordinator
can claim a little boy found Glenn Blumhorst, ex officio Robert Nolan
Nikole Allen Mary Owen
J. Henry (Hank) Ambrose Thomas Potter
25 Daniel Baker
Keith Beck
Edward van Luinen
STAFF
Glenn Blumhorst, President
Anne Baker, Vice President
Jonathan Pearson, Advocacy Director
Kemi Tignor, Director of Development
Meisha Robinson, Director of Communications
David Fields, Special Projects Coordinator
Kevin Blossfeld, Finance & Administrative Assistant
Elizabeth (Ella) Dowell, Community Technology Systems
Coordinator
Cooper Roberts, International Programs Coordinator
CONSULTANTS
David Arnold, WorldView editor
Lollie Commodore, Finance
Teena Curry, Corporate Engagement
Michael Kiernan, Media Consultant
Scott Oser, Advertising
NPCA FELLOWS
Rebecca Taylor
INTERNS
Emily Drewry
2 | WorldView ∙ Fall 2018 ∙ National Peace Corps Association VOLUNTEERS
Peter Deekle
LETTER FROM THE NPCA PRESIDENT
OUR EMERGING STRENGTH
Inspired new leadership rises
from Connect conference
By Glenn Blumhorst
I
’ve said it before and I’ll say it again. … the next generation board of directors has elected Maricarmen
These are exciting times for your Smith-Martinez, who served in Costa Rica
National Peace Corps Association.
is stepping up to from 2006 to 2008, as our board chair for
Coming off an exhilarating annual provide leadership for 2018-19. I’m elated with the opportunity
Peace Corps Connect conference in the
beautiful Poconos Mountains at Shawnee
the future, bringing to continue to work in partnership
with Maricarmen, building on her four
Institute, we are demonstrating our fresh perspectives, years of stellar leadership as a member
leadership as a united and vibrant Peace new ideas, and a keen of the NPCA board of directors and as
Corps community. coordinator of the annual gatherings
The speakers challenged us all. understanding of today’s of the leadership of our more than 180
National Teacher of the Year Mandy Peace Corps affiliate groups. She now brings to her
Manning served in Armenia from 1999 position as board chair an increased
to 2001 and gained national attention sensitivity to the needs and goals of
for her years of innovative work at a “…rise from humble beginnings to the the core of our greater Peace Corps
small school for refugees and migrants halls of the United Nations…” His career community.
in Spokane’s public school system. At was first inspired by the encouraging Maricarmen’s new appointment
Shawnee, Mandy implored our Peace work of several PCVs who taught him signals to our Peace Corps community
Corps community to continue our English at Janata Vidyalaya High School that the next generation is stepping
collective action to support the vulnerable in the Nepalese village of Gulmi. Kul rose up to provide leadership for the future,
refugee and immigrant community in the to become deputy executive director at bringing fresh perspectives, new ideas,
United States. UNICEF and assistant secretary-general and a keen understanding of today’s Peace
Global Citizen Award Winner Kul of the United Nations. Corps. It reinforces the fact that there is
Chandra Gautam reflected on his A full house of affiliate group leaders a new, more inclusive NPCA that serves
advocacy work with us in the halls of from across the country gathered for our broader community and its diverse
Congress and the story he shared with the Affiliate Group Network Annual interests and needs.
our nation’s lawmakers about his Meeting to exchange best practices and As we enter this new era, my fellow
to share insights board directors and I are committed
that will guide and to ensuring that NPCA is truly a social
inform NPCA’s impact organization driven by the Peace
emerging strategic Corps community—all of you. We’ve
plan for 2019-21. built on a proud history of nearly 40 years
The Community serving the Peace Corps community and
Builder membership we’ve emerged transformed as a more
platform continues relevant and visible organization capable
to be a vital capacity- of providing us with exciting plans to
building tool for build our Peace Corps community. Stay
our affiliates, tuned!
dramatically With great respect,
enhancing the Glenn Blumhorst
connectivity and
engagement of The author is NPCA’s president and chief
our Peace Corps executive officer. He served in Guatemala
community. from 1988 to 1991. Glenn welcomes your
The newly elected chair of the NPCA board of directors is Maricarmen
Smith-Martinez, proudly wearing the colors of her country of service during
With an eye to comments at president@peacecorpsconnect.org
Peace Corps Connect's Walk for Peace in Washington, D.C. in 2016. the future, NPCA’s
WorldView ∙ Fall 2018 ∙ www.PeaceCorpsConnect.org | 3
LETTERS
Turkey before the program closed in about the documentary and the lives of
HUNGRY FARMERS 1970. But Arkadaslar is still active and some of those men (that was a decade
To the Editor: I was impressed by doing very positive things. We have before women were admitted to the
Tony Kalm’s article in the Spring 2018 some 300 paying members. We’ve college) who met the President that day as
issue on “No More Hungry Farmers.” The contributed many thousands of dollars he passed through the crowd, asking what
campesinos we worked with in Colombia to worthy causes in Turkey, participated their plans were after graduation. Her
back in the 1960s shared many of the in earthquake relief, published a regular husband, Ted Nelson, was one of a small
frustrations experienced by those African newsletter, held frequent reunions, and group of undergraduates who chatted
farmers in the many kept alive a very valuable with Kennedy about their plans for
nations served by Kalm’s spirit. Time takes its entering medical school and law school.
One Acre Fund. toll, however, and our “No, no, no you’re not,” Kennedy
After my experience as numbers dwindle. replied. “You’re all going to join the Peace
a Volunteer developing co- Arkadaslar will cease its Corps.” Those are the words that Ted
ops in Colombia 1963 to formal operations at the Nelson remembers changed his future.
1965, I began a business end of this year but it has Several of those students did eventually
career, first with Procter & served a very valuable follow Kennedy’s advice: five percent of
Gamble in Cincinnati and purpose. the elite school’s graduating class joined
then with my own small In spite of the the Peace Corps. Nelson spent three and
manufacturing company relevance and success of a half years in Turkey. Stephen Downs
in Toronto. My Peace RPCV groups that have went to India. The rest ended up in Brazil,
Corps experience uniquely been important in the Kenya, Niger, Nigeria, Panama, and a
equipped me to deal with history of Peace Corps training program in Hawaii. The Nelsons
the many challenges I and the NPCA, they are met in the Kingdom of Tonga a decade
managed in that career. I too seldom highlighted later where Jan was a volunteer and Ted
loved my Peace Corps year in WorldView. This is was a trainer.
and married a wonderful an opportunity missed. Decades later, these RPCVs returned
woman who had served RPCV groups should get to that hilltop campus in Massachusetts
in the Peace Corps in Peru. Three of our far more attention in WorldView. as part of a committee from the Amherst
children have made overseas service part Ken Hill, Turkey, 65-67 Class of ‘64 to create the documentary,
of their lives, as well. produced by Northern Light Productions,
Thanks to WorldView, we re-live our A GOOD RECRUITER a book of the same title, and a website
Peace Corps experience and I’m sure At the October 1963 groundbreaking about how the President changed the
it helps currently serving Peace Corps of the Robert Frost Library on the hilltop course of their lives.
Volunteers do their work throughout the campus of Amherst College, John F. See jfkthelastspeech.org for more.
world. Kennedy gave a speech about public The Editors
Jack Swenson, Colombia, 63-65 service and the arts. Robert Frost, who
was a favorite poet of the President and CORRECTIONS
MORE GROUP NEWS a member of the faculty, had died a year In the Summer 2018 article,
To the Editor: RPCV Groups— earlier. Kennedy was assassinated three "International Book Recycling," the
country, regional, program—are of weeks later. magazine incorrectly reported the
significant value. For the past 50 years, A documentary about the president’s location of International Book Project.
RPCV groups have had a very positive speech, “JFK: The Last Speech,” premiered The 52-year-old nonprofit, which
impact on Peace Corps, host countries, at the Kennedy Library in Boston in May sends recycled and new books to
NPCA, and…. RPCVs and staff. Yet, if of this year and was later broadcast on schools and libraries in many of the
you scan WorldView these days, you don’t many PBS stations. world's underserved communities, is in
find much about them—the “Our Impact” While some have called it one of Lexington, Kentucky.
column being a welcome exception in the Kennedy’s best speeches, what he said The article in the Spring, 2018 issue,
Summer 2018 issue. In my view, this is a afterward had a direct impact on the "The Back of the Mosque," published
missed opportunity for NPCA. lives and futures of many of the Amherst the wrong years of Peace Corps service
For myself and many of my colleagues students present that day. of the author, Jade Wu. She served in
who make up Arkadaslar (Friends of Jan Worth-Nelson, the editor of East Malawi from 1995 to 1997 and is now an
Turkey) this matter has particular Village Magazine in Flint, Michigan wrote independent contractor in Washington,
relevance. Over 1400 of us served in a summary for Peace Corps Worldwide D.C.
4 | WorldView ∙ Fall 2018 ∙ National Peace Corps Association
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OUR IMPACT
RAISING YOUR VOICE 1,000 news websites. The PCC4Refugees
also mobilized its membership to oppose
Affiliates join media debate, launch new web sites the nomination of Ronald Mortensen as
assistant secretary of state for refugee
By Meisha Robinson and migration affairs. More than 100
I
RPCVs from 27 states wrote letters to
t’s not just a promise in our mission the Iran Nuclear Agreement by writing their U.S. senators in opposition to the
statement. NPCA champions a letters to their U.S. senators and local nomination. An important letter to the
lifelong commitment to Peace Corps newspapers. Three op-eds and 10 letters editor opposing Mortensen also appeared
ideals. Bringing that mission to life, to the editor were published, two of them in Mortensen’s home state of Utah.
we actively and successfully engage in in The Washington Post. A group video
community-based projects that produce that focused on the respect they have as
global giving that’s efficient, transparent RPCVs for the people, history and culture
These media efforts
and effective. NPCA operates through of Iran received more than 4,500 views on further promoted her
many touchpoints, including to make Facebook and YouTube. as this year’s national
the world a better place with our Meanwhile, the Peace Corps
Community Builder Platform and a Community for Refugees gave media spokesperson for refugee
special media engagement grant. support to Mandy Manning, an RPCV and immigrant students
who was chosen National Teacher of the
Advocates appeal through the press Year for her success teaching immigrant
in our schools.
Two affiliates are engaging in public and refugee high school students in
debates on issues that concern them Spokane, Washington. These media Also through the grant, NPCA
greatly. They received guidance by an efforts further promoted her as a Advocacy Director Jonathan Pearson
NPCA consultant whose work is funded spokesperson for refugee and immigrant traveled to Kentucky and conducted
by a grant to raise public awareness and students in our schools. PCC4Refugees four workshops across the state, training
increase engagement with the media by also organized a national media Returned Peace Corps Volunteers on
the greater Peace Corps Community. conference call on June 18 to focus public advocacy strategies to engage citizens
The media consultant helped Peace attention on the Trump administration’s on local, national, and global issues.
Corps Iran Association members launch a severe cutbacks in refugee admissions. The Kentucky Peace Corps Association
campaign to oppose U.S. withdrawal from The briefing featured experts from three initiated a mini-grant program to
refugee agencies promote the importance of international
and was attended diplomacy, development and cooperation.
by seven media Six projects being planned this fall in five
representatives Kentucky cities have been approved for
including reporters funding.
from the Associated RPCVs attending the August 23-25
Press, National Peace Corps Connect gathering at the
Public Radio, Shawnee Institute participated in two
Reuters, and CBS media training workshops conducted
Radio. by the consultant, Michael Kiernan,
Following a former journalist with 25 years of
the media call, experience directing media relations and
AP conducted a public affairs for major non-government
follow-up interview organizations.
with one of the
experts, Kay Bellor, Expanding our Internet
from Lutheran NPCA’s Community Builder Platform
Immigration and is an online association management
RPCVs in Covington, Kentucky, reviewed strategies for effective advocacy Refugee Services. system that was designed specifically
during a Global Issues Advocacy 101 training at the Center for Great
Neighborhoods. The session was led by NPCA advocacy director Jonathan
The story quoting for NPCA’s more than 180 affiliate
Pearson during one of his four July meetings with Kentucky affiliates to Bellor ran the next groups. The platform increases their
hone their citizen advocacy skills for pending campaigns. day on more than
6 | WorldView ∙ Fall 2018 ∙ National Peace Corps Association
A MSIH DOCTOR IS MORE
THAN JUST A WHITE COAT
8 week global health rotation in one of several
resource scarce locations around the world
Clinical exposure in the 1st year and
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Only medical school to incorporate
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Small class sizes with a close and supportive community
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visibility, engagement, capacity, and GLOBAL HEALTH
impact and features a customizable
website, membership database,
fundraising and payment processing
center, communications tools, and
events calendar. With 36 groups now
connected through this nation-wide,
FOUR STORIES
FROM AFRICA
integrated platform, all groups that have
launched their new websites thus far have
increased their membership, engagement,
S
and donations. These groups have also
increased their productivity and lightened erving in Peace Corps is an Lilienthal’s hope to create a camp in
their workload while using our platform’s awakening, but sometimes Soweto came true in 2003. Over eight
dynamic mailing lists and reports, it takes decades to make days at Camp Sizanani, thousands of
customizable automatic notifications, and something happen. It took children of Soweto have learned to cope
real-time membership updates. that long for Phil Lilienthal, with the emotional, physical and social
With training and support from a Washington, D.C. lawyer, to build challenges of HIV/AIDS and a host of
NPCA’s community technology systems his summer camp for South African health problems. His camp is one of
coordinator, Elizabeth (Ella) Dowell, children. He writes that even with a several stories we offer in this report on
these groups are producing beautiful, couple of shopping malls and a few good global health.
modern, mobile-friendly websites. roads, Soweto is still a sprawling former Bronx emergency room technician
Susan Robinson, communications township with a large number of residents Aaron Hochman-Zimmerman decided
director for NPCA’s 2018 Ruppe Award- who “still live in squatter shacks without to study medicine in Beersheva, Israel
winning group Cincinnati Area Returned sewage, electricity, or running water.” and on three continents and in other
Volunteers (CARV), had never made a languages. “Muslim and Jewish doctors
Action Image/Bob Martin/REUTERS
website before, but thanks to the user- and nurses eat lunch together at the
friendliness of the platform, she created hospital cafeteria," he writes. "They
CARV’s new website. Now she’s blogging speak Hebrew even though their original
the steps in CARV’s promising journey to languages may be English and Arabic,
resettling a Syrian refugee family. Russian or Amharic.”
Our website’s new platform fostered In 1985 Taryn Vian organized
an alliance between Peace Corps Alliance fundraising for a health clinic in
for Intercultural Understanding and Ndzandouan, Cameroon. “There were 13
Friends of Afghanistan to partner with wooden doors stacked on the large truck,
Code to Inspire, a coding school for but the blueprints for the health center
women in Afghanistan, to develop a only showed eight doors,” she recalls. This
website on NPCA’s Community Builder experience led her to an academic and
Platform. These groups are now getting activist career searching and calling out
development assistance from talented the varieties of greed and corruption that
young coders in Afghanistan and undermine the promise of better health
providing these young women real-world care in many countries.
application of their new skills. When major trucking firms in Africa
To learn more about these projects discovered their drivers were dying of
visit www.peacecorpsconnect.org AIDS, Robin Landis writes that she and
some colleagues at the UN’s World Food
Meisha Robinson is NPCA communications Programme retrofitted 50 shipping
director and founding director of I Am. We containers to build awareness and to
Are, a youth empowerment organization in treat the epidemic. The blue steel boxes
South Africa’s Royal Bafokeng Nation. She eventually became roadside health clinics
served in Benin (00-02) and as a Peace Corps for larger populations.
Response Volunteer for Special Olympics
South Africa in in 2012. The Editors
8 | WorldView ∙ Fall 2018 ∙ National Peace Corps AssociationGLOBAL HEALTH
CAMPING SKILLS the Peace Corps, had three children born
in different countries, and opened a law
practice. When my father died a few years
Inventing a summer camp in Soweto later, I became Camp Winnebago’s third
By Phil Lilienthal owner and director.
I
For many years I insisted I would
was 62 years old and had already John Coyne, told me, I jumped at the return to Africa and open youth
given up my law practice for the opportunity. Thinking how brilliant I development camps. Finally, a good
life of a camp director when, in was, I did a straight transfer from my friend said, “Are you going to do it or just
2003, I took off for the month of Winnebago experience with all the same talk about it?” My oldest son, Andy, who
May to travel through South Africa, traditions, substituted “Camp Langano” was born in Ethiopia, said he would run
Botswana, and Kenya to look for a partner for “Winnebago” and even kept the same Winnebago.
on the ground with whom to start youth college fight song melodies. The results Three years later, I was on a plane to
camps for local kids. were surprisingly powerful, especially find business partners and sites in Africa.
I grew up a camp brat. My father to one who thought summer camps I had a friend in Botswana who worked
was made a junior partner at Camp were a U.S. preserve and they might with me in Thailand, a friend of a friend
Winnebago in Maine and I grew up there. not be adaptable to Ethiopia. Little did in Kenya, and a sense that the financial
I loved that camp and engine of South Africa
MARC ALTMAN
Maine, spent two should not be ignored.
summers as a counselor
and always pointed to In the time of AIDS
that as a lifestyle and In 2003 HIV/
career. Our camp was AIDS had emerged as
too small to occupy my a major health crisis
father full-time so he for South Africa’s 50
was a part-time lawyer million people with
when he wasn’t engaged more HIV positive
in camp. I would follow people than any
suit. country in the world,
After I graduated an unenviable honor.
from law school and my The epidemic was
wife, Lynn, graduated made worse by family
with a master’s in taboos on talking
social work, we went about it. We knew
to Ethiopia as Peace we had to break that
Corps Volunteers. I was taboo and avoid
assigned to government parent/family groups
ministries, ostensibly rising up in arms
to replace local lawyers Counselor Odette Mgidi greets a session of Soweto children to Camp Sizanani’s eight-day life against us but I also
who would be attending skills camp. The residential camp uses the grounds of six schools in the region. Ross Coleman is a worried about local
law school under a Ford counselor from the United States. Some South African counselors work at U.S. camps. repercussions.
Foundation program My South African
to teach the newly consolidated and I realize how universal camp principles counterpart, Michelle Schirn, said not to
codified laws to local lawyers. Lynn made of teamwork, cooperation, trust, skill worry. She was right. After 15 years, 8,700
her own program, working at the local development, and living simply could be. kids have gone through our program
prison, the Cheshire Home for mentally I ran Camp Langano for two years and we have yet to have any pushback
and physically disabled children, and the and gave it to the local YMCA when I left. regarding subject material.
mental hospital. They ran it for seven more years until a At Global Camps Africa we focus on
Six months after we got there, the violent Marxist revolution shut down any HIV/AIDS, sexuality, and a list of other
Ethiopian government asked Peace Corps independent youth development projects. crucial life skills: gender bias, abusive
for help in starting a summer camp. My wife and I returned home and behaviors, alcohol, drugs, crime, self-
When our associate Peace Corps director, worked in Washington, DC and abroad for esteem, teen pregnancy and parenting,
WorldView
WorldView
∙ Summer
∙ Fall2018 ∙ www.PeaceCorpsConnect.org| | 9
2018∙ www.PeaceCorpsConnect.organd xenophobia. In addition to HIV disadvantaged schools, youth centers, and a graduate degree. She works in the
infections, we discuss other sexually and orphanages. We limit our campers to public affairs office of a large nonprofit.
transmitted diseases such as chlamydia, one eight-day session and most sessions Many campers have carved lives for
gonorrhea, and syphilis. This is all in just are residential though we offer occasional themselves beyond what they or their
eight days. It often takes evening sessions day camps. Because they can’t qualify for families thought was possible. Because of
to handle all the questions we face once another eight-day camp, we offer youth resiliency and self-empowerment, they
we open the door. clubs that meet in their neighborhoods learn initially from their camp experience
We also have sports, swimming, arts every other Saturday throughout the and know that their future is in their own
and crafts, theater, nutrition, and yoga year. We offer a full year’s curriculum of hands. Most have acted accordingly.
every day for an hour for each activity. life skills, but they can stay after the year. Dennis is an orphan who survived a
We opened Camp Sizanani with our The clubs as well as camp are free for the tough childhood—even by South African
first partner in Soweto. We transported campers. standards. Adults punished him by
the campers and pouring boiling water
counselors to a camp For many years I insisted I would return to Africa on his feet. Despite
site about 90 minutes and open youth development camps. Finally, a this, he has become
away. one of the more
A word about good friend said, “Are you going to do it or just talk sensitive counselors.
Soweto. A sprawling about it?” He has also started
former township in his own clothing
PHIL LILIENTHAL
the mining belt of manufacturing
Gauteng Province business. Although
and once the barely able to support
political hotbed of himself, he buys
the anti-apartheid shoes for needy
movement, Soweto children.
has a reputation akin
to New York City’s Relying on local
Harlem. There are counselors
many elements in this I have learned
Baltimore-sized area. more than ever
Like Harlem, Soweto that staff quality
has its upper crust determines the power
and has become more of camp. Leadership
gentrified. Soweto has must be strong, but
two large shopping the policies can’t be
malls and paved roads. conveyed without
It has a population of a strong counselor
three to four million. staff. Over the years,
Even with these signs we have achieved a
of economic progress Like many U.S. camps, Sizanani creates a joyful atmosphere for learning and to address crucial staff I am proud of.
in Soweto, a large Soweto concerns such as HIV/AIDS, sexuality, gender bias, abusive behaviors, alcohol, drugs, crime, Most of them are
self-esteem, teen pregnancy, parenting, and xenophobia.
number of residents from Soweto and had
still live in squatter no camp experience
shacks without sewage, electricity, or Many of these campers have turned before coming to us.
running water. their expectations of life around as a Many of our counselors are former
Soweto is comprised of many result of what they discovered they can do campers. We have a chance to evaluate
neighborhoods with their own during a camp experience. Once blinders them as they go through our Youth Club
characteristics and hundreds of thousands are taken away, the campers learn what program and can employ those most
of underserved kids, more than we could can be available if they apply themselves effective as counselors.
ever serve—and it remains the base from and learn how the system works. Whether we are tapping into a need
which we draw most of our campers and Phili completed our camp in 2004, got or simply providing a modest source of
counselors. We invite kids from the most financial aid to a private school, college, temporary employment and income,
10 | WorldView ∙ Fall 2018 ∙ National Peace Corps Associationcounselors sometimes pass up permanent younger children. When these children To be accredited, we must have only
jobs in order to work at camp. At most age up to 13 to 15 years of age, they counselors who have passed a nationwide
this would give them three-session camps come to camp. We find that there is little 12th-grade exam. Many of our counselors
of 12 days: four days of training and eight difference between what they get from had to drop out of high school for a
days of camp, in addition to 18 days at camp compared to campers completely variety of reasons, so we need to make
Youth Club. new to the program. it attractive for them to return to school
Global Camps Africa also offer We have received three AIDS- to pass the exam. This is proving more
counselors the chance for international reduction contracts under PEPFAR, the difficult than we had thought it would be.
experience. Many U.S. camps look for marvelous U.S. government effort. The We have worked with groups in
counselors from Zambia, Lesotho,
other countries At Global Camps Africa we focus on HIV/AIDS and Zimbabwe and
and will pay all sexuality and a list of other crucial life skills: gender Uganda. We are
expenses and a good also considering
salary by South bias, abusive behaviors, alcohol, drugs, crime, requests to work
African standards. self-esteem, teen pregnancy and parenting, and with girls and boys
We provide those traumatized by many
camps with trained
xenophobia. years of violence and
and experienced displacement during
PHIL LILIENTHAL
counselors from the Boko Haram
South Africa. For insurgency in Niger
our counselors, and Nigeria.
getting to the U.S. We believe
can be a dream camps have a prime
come true. Some have role to play in the
been back several future of youth
times. They truly find development. The
a home away from power to influence
home. lives of young people
in a positive way
Camp operation has great potential.
gets complicated The possibilities are
Management of limitless and the
the camp and club opportunities are
programs remains attractive for anyone
the responsibility who has ever been to
of South Africans. camp or worked in a
We hired a country camp. Using a good
director, backed by Lilienthal’s non-profit Global Camps Africa uses the grounds of Bekker School and five other schools camping experience
outside of Soweto for sessions of Sizanani’s residential camp program.
a strong local board to change the course
of directors. We raise of children’s lives is a
the bulk of our funding in the United two training programs and nine camps powerful way to make one’s life more full.
States but want to change that. that operated around South Africa were
Our Saturday youth clubs were all great successes. Phil Lilienthal served as a PCV in Ethiopia
designed as clubs for those who had We hope to have the camp and club from 1965 to 1967, was staff in Washington
completed the eight-day camp. However, operation run with South African money headquarters and in the Philippines and
many needed to care for younger siblings in the next two years. This presents Thailand between 1968 and 1974, and
and brought them to clubs. When we saw interesting and unforeseen challenges for is president and founder of Global Camps
the numbers of non-campers exceed the us. The South African government has Africa, an independent South Africa non-
camp graduates, we decided to apply for established an accreditation program to profit.
a grant to develop a life skills curriculum vet NGOs, thereby avoiding and stopping
for younger children. With a grant from the flood of financial scams by some
LinkedIn, we developed a curriculum for organizations in South Africa.
WorldView ∙ Fall 2018 ∙ www.PeaceCorpsConnect.org | 11GRADUATE
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12 | WorldView ∙ Fall 2018 ∙ National Peace Corps AssociationGARETH BENTLEY/NORTH STAR ALLIANCE
In a truck yard in Tunduma, Tanzania, a young mother and her children receive comprehensive medical care at the Blue Box Clinic. The clinic is one of 50
operated by North Star Alliance along African roads where HIV prevention for truck drivers has expanded to more health services for African populations.
HEALTHY TRUCKERS
Fighting HIV on the road led to 50 mobile clinics across Africa
By Robin Landis
I
n 2003, the southern Africa region the agency struggled to find enough throughout Africa. Men who were away
was facing an unprecedented healthy truck drivers. At the same time, from their wives and on the road for
humanitarian crisis caused by one of WFP’s corporate partners, TNT, the weeks at a stretch often fought boredom
widespread drought, fueled by weak global transport and logistics company, and loneliness in the company of local sex
governance, and an extraordinarily was attempting to expand its business in workers. Many women facing hunger and
high HIV prevalence; up to 40 percent in the region. They soon found that the road poverty with no other way to feed their
some countries. An estimated 14 million transport sector suffered from a lack of family had turned to sex work to make
people across six countries—Lesotho, workers. Some transport companies in ends meet.
Malawi, Mozambique, Swaziland, Zambia the region reported that they had lost 50 While research revealed the
and Zimbabwe—faced food shortages and percent of their workforce to AIDS. Long- relationship between food insecurity
six million of those urgently needed food distance truck drivers were especially and HIV infection, a gap remained
relief. impacted. in accessible healthcare for these two
The U.N. World Food Programme The link between truck drivers populations. Truck drivers and sex
geared up to deliver massive amounts and sex workers was long known as a workers were frequently deemed hard
of emergency food relief to these contributing factor in the high rates of to reach for HIV prevention because of
communities, but for the first time ever HIV transmission along the corridors their constant mobility. The associated
WorldView
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∙ Summer
∙ Fall2018 ∙ www.PeaceCorpsConnect.org| | 13
2018∙ www.PeaceCorpsConnect.orgsocial stigma of and treatment;
GARETH BENTLEY/NORTH STAR ALLIANCE
AIDS made health HIV counseling,
service delivery testing, PrEP and
challenging, if not antiretroviral
impossible. therapy; male and
By joining female condoms;
forces to tackle a laboratory testing;
common problem, referrals to partner
the commercial healthcare providers;
and humanitarian information
transport actors— on sexual and
TNT and WFP— reproductive health
took the first and rights; Star
step on the road to Driver Loyalty
potentially change Program for truck
the course of public drivers; education
health for mobile and behavior change
populations. communication;
outreach activities;
At the crossroads and training of
of health peer educators. An
and mobility encrypted health
North Star database that makes
Alliance is a public- patient records
private partnership available at every
that provides clinic in the network
quality healthcare ensures individual
to mobile workers continuity of care.
and the communities with whom they They soon found that As more and more people move for
interact. It started in 2006 as a practical work, recreation, and safety reasons, the
workplace response to the impact of the
the road transport sector risk of communicable diseases spreading
AIDS epidemic in southern Africa. It has in general suffered from across national borders increases. People
matured into a multinational organization
and recognized leader in delivering
a lack of workers. who leave their homes behind and are
away for prolonged periods of time are
frontline health services that meet concerns like flu and colds, headaches, often beyond the reach of traditional
industry, public health, and individual hemorrhoids, hypertension, and malaria. health services—making them more
needs. Many of the female sex workers who came vulnerable to illness and more likely to
From the pilot roadside ‘wellness to the clinics quickly took responsibility take health risks.
center’ in Malawi in 2005 that offered for telling others and distributing Of course, it is not only HIV and other
little more than free condoms and condoms and prevention information. As STIs that move freely across borders.
information, the North Star network the number of clients rapidly increased, While the most recent Ebola outbreak in
currently consists of nearly 50 clinics it became apparent that the clinics the Democratic Republic of Congo is now
across 13 African countries offering a mix were drawing from the surrounding contained with no indication that anyone
of prevention, treatment and referrals, communities. In some cases, community carried the virus out of the country,
community outreach, and outpatient care. members outnumbered truck drivers and taking services to where people are rather
Stand alone ‘blue box’ clinics made from sex workers. Instead of turning people than waiting for them to come presents a
converted shipping containers outfitted away, North Star strengthened their highly relevant approach to Ebola control
with equipment for testing and screening partner referrals, created links to other and pandemic planning in general.
are strategically placed at busy truck local services, and added community
stops. outreach. Lead from the ground up
What began as a way to get HIV North Star likes to say that one of its
Listening and responding prevention into the hands of truck strengths is recognizing their weakness: it
It wasn’t long after the first clinics drivers now provides an expanded cannot achieve its mission alone. Bringing
were up and running that health package of primary healthcare including essential healthcare to mobile populations
staff reported their male clients were malaria, tuberculosis, and emerging and the communities with which it
requesting treatment for occupational non-communicable diseases; STI testing interacts requires all hands on deck.
14 | WorldView ∙ Fall 2018 ∙ National Peace Corps AssociationWhat began as a way to get HIV prevention into those they encounter along the way.
the hands of truck drivers now provides … primary And in doing so, the same people who
once were heavily subjected to judgment
healthcare, including malaria, tuberculosis, and and blame are now leading the way to
emerging non-communicable diseases… information healthier communities.
on sexual and reproductive health and rights… Change can be hard
The partnership between WFP
The U.N. World Health Organization’s deliver services. But the investment in and TNT began as an unconventional
HIV strategy addresses a range of health the community goes well beyond that. cooperation between a large humanitarian
challenges and provides direction for Through dedicated programs such as agency and one of the world’s largest
ending the AIDS epidemic by 2030. To Star Driver and Hands Off!, thousands logistics companies trying to spread a
achieve this ambitious target throughout of truck drivers and sex workers have successful health delivery innovation
the transport sector, regional, national, received education and training with via a small South African NGO, Ikaheng.
and local health authorities, transport many taking on roles as peer educators, TNT’s charismatic chief executive officer
owners, trade unions, academia, civil outreach workers, and role models. hit it off with WFP’s executive director
society and, of course, the key populations Now in its second decade, North Star and a blended project team was created
themselves, must work together. Alliance has shown that communities, to test the concept. Momentum grew
From the outset, North Star aligned peers, and partners can create a powerful fast from early success, which sparked a
its activities with public health authorities response that continually adapts to the commitment to expand the model and
and relied on hiring local expertise to health needs of mobile populations and drew the attention of massive health and
DAVE CHIDLEY/ NORTH STAR ALLIANCE
A North Star clinician in Maai Mahiu, Kenya, conducts daily outreach among truck drivers and sex workers along one of dozens of Africa’s busiest freight routes.
WorldView
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∙ Summer2018 ∙ www.PeaceCorpsConnect.org| | 15
2018∙ www.PeaceCorpsConnect.orgYOU
development partners. The name came
ARE
from a midnight teleconference call.
North Star Foundation (later changed
THE KIND OF
to North Star Alliance) was announced
the next morning and within 48 hours,
PERSON
President Bill Clinton launched the
official partnership at the first Clinton
Global Initiative conference.
It was not long before the road got
with a belief in the common good? bumpy as the partners struggled to learn
each other’s “language” and build trust.
You’re positive that regardless of race, gender, or
Initially, TNT didn’t fully comprehend
geographic location, good health is a universal right
for all mankind. the social, cultural, and political aspects
of HIV and of AIDS. It was eager to take
You’re a fighter. A voice for the voiceless; an advocate
for the weak; a catalyst for change.
a calculated risk and had the funds to get
the project off and running. TNT became
You’re the kind of person who needs a career that reflects impatient with WFP’s comparatively
your passion.
slow action and lengthy consultation
with field staff and others on the ground.
The world needs a person like you. Endless discussions turned into debates,
Start your career at the USF College of Public Health
debates became heated arguments. A
meeting to identify the sources of the
PAUL D. COVERDELL FELLOWS PROGRAM conflict degenerated into a yelling match
that forced an almost-fatal walkout. The
our
practice social entrepreneur in South Africa grew
our passion.
is TM
impatient with it all and threatened to
pull out.
At the outset, the involved
institutions shared a commitment to
protect the transport workforce. It was
a touchstone when things got wobbly.
At each turn, they took the time to
understand each other’s perspectives.
They forgave each other… a lot. They
learned to trust each other’s motives.
WFP’s humanitarian mission, TNT’s
business acumen, and Ikaheng’s
innovative experience created a winning
partnership. All parties kept in mind a
popular saying adopted by South African
rights advocates: Nothing about us without
us. It reminded them of whom they
wanted to serve, how to reach them,
and who would lead the way. Just short
of 10 years of operation, WFP and TNT
recognized North Star needed to evolve
without them, and that the power of
many is the key to sustainability.
Robin Landis (Sierra Leone, 83-86) was an
HIV/AIDS policy advisor for WFP and part of
the original team from which the partnership
began.
16 | WorldView ∙ Fall 2018 ∙ National Peace Corps AssociationGLOBAL HEALTH
MED SCHOOL ACROSS BORDERS
It started on Long Island and in the High Atlas
By Aaron Hochman-Zimmerman
A
few years ago, I worked do. I thought it would fit well with my with white at the top and changed shades
nights and weekends on journalism career. But when the Peace on the way down as exposed sediment of
an ambulance crew as Corps recruiter asked how I handled a reds, tans and browns gave way to small
an Emergency Medical stressful situation, I thought about that grasses and then almond and apple trees
Technician in Manhattan rainy night on Amsterdam Avenue. along the river valley. Above, where the
and the Bronx in New York City. One That seemed more interesting to my mud brick houses were built, little water
rainy night, an elderly lady was hit by Peace Corps interviewer than my job sources trickled right out of the rock,
a car crossing Amsterdam Avenue. We writing financial news, so I became a as if by some miracle water could come
took the call in the last minutes of our health volunteer in the High Atlas village straight from rocks. I hoped it was as
shift and got there seconds before a of Ait Boulli, Morocco. That was the first much a source for pure thought as it was
range of other first-responders arrived. step on my struggle to decide if I could for pure water.
My adrenalin was high, the patient was give up journalism for something else. I loved being an EMT. I loved training
moaning, unable to speak, and the family One day in Ait Boulli, I felt I needed and learning from the Moroccan Red
was desperate. some fresh air, so I went out back, hiked Crescent and the local ambulance drivers.
Wiping rain out of my eyes, I tried up the mountain that rose behind the Maybe I should stick to medicine, I
to stabilize an exposed-bone femur village, and changed my mind about thought, but it would mean years more of
fracture while receiving instruction and writing. I needed a better view… of school and a ton of money. Adding up the
encouragement at a rather high volume everything. I climbed as high as I could. pros and cons, only one path was clear for
from a fire department lieutenant. He me to follow.
pushed us to move faster and faster The decision made itself--med school.
while members of the victim’s family I would grit my teeth and prepared
kept asking questions and trying to help. to become a science and math guy. I
Finally, we had done what we could and desperately wanted to nurture what I had
were on the road to the hospital, the learned in Morocco: that not everyone
injured woman and her family in the back sees life or good health the same way.
of the ambulance with us. Some people think that ‘less is more’
I don’t know what happened to the when it comes to medical treatment and
woman. Ambulance crews almost never some people want the whole menu of
hear the end of the story. We hope for the medications and therapies.
best but once the hospital doctors take Then there was another interview, but
over, we clean up our ambulance and head this time with a woman staffing a booth
back out on the street. a Columbia University career fair. She
However, my chosen career was that described the global health curriculum
of a journalist. I’d been a copywriter at the Medical School for International
and a reporter struggling through the Health at Ben-Gurion University of
early years of freelancing and working the Negev, in Beersheva, Israel. The
for a small financial news website. school offered a two-month training
But the problem was that every time clerkship in low/mid-income countries
I thought I had something to write, I like India, Sri Lanka, Peru, or Mexico
couldn’t figure out how to make the story where medical students would learn from
interesting to strangers, how to market From high on that mountain in Morocco, staff doctors and, when language and
the manuscripts, or how to monetize my untethered from the world below, I medical knowledge permitted, would
journalism. experienced a level of clear thought actually practice medicine. The idea of the
that was unattainable elsewhere. My overseas clerkship made me appreciate
Exit the reporter village’s backyard mountains made for a that they were serious about global
Peace Corps service was also staggeringly beautiful backdrop. The sky health, that it would be more than just a
something that I had always wanted to was pure blue, but the mountains began few hollow lectures.
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2018∙ www.PeaceCorpsConnect.orgShe asked in a skeptical tone, “…is that Our classroom lectures are all in their homes by violence and felt lost
something you think you could handle?” English, but we’ve learned to work with without food, shelter, and medical care.
With what I hope wasn’t too cocky a patients and staff in several languages. Without regular, long-term supplies of
smile, I told her: “I think I can manage.” My Arabic is better than it was in their medicines, most of them suffered
Morocco. I often speak in French and from diabetes and hypertension. Some
Complex of cultures my parents are proud that my Hebrew is had conditions we could treat. For others,
I felt drawn to the thought of studying better than theirs ever was. all we could do is provide advice. Still, we
medicine overseas, in Israel, and on Working day to day at Beersheva’s wanted them to know we were concerned
the campus at Ben-Gurion University Soroka Hospital, we can see very clearly about their well-being.
at Soroka Hospital where the patients how culture influences medicine, what We were not fluent in Arabic so
receive treatment for especially rare good health means to different people, we worked with interpreters. It was a
congenital and infectious diseases and and how doctors constantly find ways frustrating experience but I think these
speak such languages as Hebrew, Arabic, to weave science and faith, finance, and refugees wanted someone to listen. And
Russian, and Amharic. circumstance together. Some patients we listened to a lot of stories.
Ben-Gurion accepted my application make greater demands of the staff and
to study medicine. It all seemed like have challenging questions and high Your left is my right
a Peace Corps dream. But something expectations. Others take a fatalist Occasionally, it is a medical student’s
concerned me that I was embarrassed approach, have no questions, and quietly duty to act as a model patient so other
to admit to myself. I was concerned that accept whatever we recommend along students can learn. It was my turn
studying in Israel would make it difficult with its result, including their deaths or when a few dozen Palestinian doctors
for me to work in Muslim countries and that of family members. visited Soroka Hospital to train in
that non-government organizations and Despite my early fears that I would echocardiography. They poked me in the
the embassy officers who issue visas to be unable to work with Muslim patients, ribs with an ultrasound probe so many
other countries would object to an Israeli I have worked with the local Bedouin times I started showing bruises. When
they realized I was uncomfortable, each of
Despite my early fears that it could be difficult to them apologized.
work with Muslim patients … I taught English to I smiled and said, “Mafey mushkile.”
No problem, in Arabic. They chuckled and
Bedouin high school students, I’ve worked in Jordan, smiled.
presented research at a conference in Cairo and I worked for three weeks with a
group of Italian medical students in the
worked with doctors at training seminars in the West understaffed emergency department of
Bank and Gaza. a hospital in Kampala, Uganda. Many of
our patients had suffered deep lacerations
degree. Still, I applied and accepted Ben- communities, on weekends I have taught from accidents riding on boda boda,
Gurion’s invitation to study there. English to Bedouin high school students, motorcycles, that required sutures.
It turned out that many cultural I have worked in Jordan, presented Two of us created our own specialty
differences come together to make a research at a conference in Cairo and suturing team. Roberta spoke excellent
medical degree from this small city of worked with doctors at training seminars English but she was having trouble
Beersheva what it is. Muslim and Jewish in the West Bank and Gaza. keeping her left hand and right hand
doctors and nurses eat lunch together at Once in a while, a few of us in the straight in English. So I reminded her
the hospital cafeteria. They speak Hebrew medical program take an overnight bus with my best Italian “sinistra” and
even though their original languages through Nazareth to Jordan to offer “destra.”
may be English and Arabic, Russian triage care to Syrian refugees staying For the doctor and the patient, sutures
or Amharic. The food they eat rotates outside the U.N. camps. Our Iraqi and can be difficult and uncomfortable,
between Russian, Moroccan, and other Jordanian colleagues caution us not to especially if the patient can see the
cuisines. say we have come from Israel. They want needle. I had to push hard with the
Beyond the difficulties and headlines to avoid the wrong kind of rumors that needle to finally poke through the firmer
of Middle Eastern conflict, day-to-day life might make life more stressful for the outer layer of epidermis into the juicier
here is calm and friendly. Down the street refugees, the medical team, and ourselves. skin layers and fat tissue below. I was
from my apartment, I visit a café that The few days we were in that sleepy comforted only by the thought that it was
would fit in perfectly in New York and little town in the north of Jordan were a necessary thing to do.
order coffee and a sandwich in Hebrew. marked by bustling people who had not I also spent one of my school holidays
In Arabic I order shisha with my coffee at seen doctors in a long time. They had riding along with paramedics in Cape
a café a few doors down that would fit in no fresh war wounds to be treated but Town, South Africa. Most of the work was
perfectly in Cairo. these refugees had been chased from surprisingly familiar and it was good to
18 | WorldView ∙ Fall 2018 ∙ National Peace Corps AssociationYou can also read
