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SUMMER 2021

                      J OU R NA L
                        THE CENTER FOR REGENERATIVE PRACTICE

Field of the Future   New Def inition of Nutrient    Growing a New Crop
SUSAN JENNINGS        Density Goes Beyond Labels     of Regenerative Farmers
                      DAN KITTREDGE                  AMY HARPER & KAT CHRISTEN
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CONTRIBUTORS                                              Matan Mazursky, Educator                        AGRARIA JOURNAL SUMMER 2021

                                                                                                          CONTENTS
Gabby Amrhein, Megan Bachman, Beth Bridgeman,             Jyoti Miller, Database Coordinator
Ariella Brown, Caressa Brown, Kat Christen,               Scott Montgomery, Webmaster
Sheryl Cunningham, David Diamond, Emily Foubert,          Pam Miller, Office Manager
Rose Hardesty, Amy Harper, Bob Huston, Rachel Isaacson,   Teddy Pierson, Asst. Landuse Coordinator
Susan Jennings, Dan Kittredge, Jim Linne, Peggy Nestor,   Kaylee Rutherford, Miller Fellow                An Invitation to Pay Attention— and Thrive, SHERYL CUNNINGHAM 4
Teddy Pierson, Kenisha Robinson, Rich Sidwell,            Kenisha Robinson, Farmer Training Assistant
Cheryl Smith                                              Xinyuan Shi, Americorps VISTA                   What’s In a Name? 5

PHOTOGRAPHY
                                                          McKenzie Smith, Miller Fellow                   Field of the Future, SUSAN JENNINGS 6
                                                          Mark Thornton, Educator
Dennie Eagleson, Amy Harper, Rose Hardesty,                                                               New Definition of Nutrient Density Goes Beyond Labels, DAN KITTREDGE 9
                                                          Tiffany Ward, Educator
Susan Jennings, Teddy Pierson, Renee Wilde
                                                          Joseph Young, Melrose Acres Grant Coordinator   Edible Ethics: To Harvest or Not to Harvest, GABBY LOOMIS-AMRHEIN 12
ILLUSTRATION
                                                          FARMER PARTNER                                  Natural Foods – Native Edible Plants, BY TEDDY PIERSON 14
Bob Huston
                                                          Jason Ward
                                                                                                          Black Farming and Beyond, ARIELLA J. BROWN HORN 15
EDITORS
                                                          COMMUNITY SOLUTIONS
Amy Harper and Susan Jennings                                                                             Farmer Fellowship Program: Growing a New Crop of Regenerative Farmers, AMY HARPER & KAT CHRISTEN 16
                                                          BOARD OF TRUSTEES
DESIGN                                                    Sheryl Cunningham, President                    Coming Back to the Land: Reviving a Multigenerational Legacy, BY KENISHA ROBINSON & CARESSA BROWN 18
Tika Redding                                              Richard Sidwell, Treasurer
                                                                                                          As Below, So Above: From Healthy Soil to Healthy Body, A Conversation with Elaine Ingham, MEGAN BACHMAN 20
                                                          Megan Bachman, Secretary
AGRARIA STAFF
                                                          Mark Cohen                                      Optimal Health: A Physician/Farmer Perspective, JIM LINNE 22
Robert Bacheller, Land Team
                                                          Jessica D’Ambrosio                              Agraria: A New Educational Model, RICH SIDWELL 24
Amber Bodkin, Grantwriter
                                                          Donna Haller
Naomi Bongorno, Development Manager                                                                       Around Agraria, Photography, AMY HARPER & DENNIE EAGLESON 26
                                                          Kevin Hallinan
Ariella Brown, Black Farming Conference Lead
                                                          Sarah Hippensteel Hall                          From Activist to Advocate: How I Became a Voice for Black Agriculture, CHERYL WOOD SMITH 28
Sherry Chen, Melrose Acres Manager
                                                          Jim Linne
Kat Christen, Farm Training Manager                       Macy Reynolds                                   Grounded Hope: From the Highways to the Hedgerows, RENEE WILDE 30
David Diamond, K-12 Education Lead                        Steven Roe                                      Food as Farmacy, PEGGY NESTOR 32
Alberta Dempsey, Research Intern                          Cheryl Smith
Lyric Ester, Land Team                                                                                    for argiope, GABBY LOOMIS-AMRHEIN 33
Emily Foubert, Nature Education Lead                      AGRARIA
                                                                                                          Nature Based Education During a Pandemic, DAVID DIAMOND 34
Adam Green, GIS Coordinator and Web Developer             Box 243
Rose Hardesty, Social Media                               131 E. Dayton Yellow Springs Road               Building Community Through Reskilling, BETH BRIDGEMAN 37
Amy Harper, Communications Manager/Research Liaison       Yellow Springs, OH 45387
                                                                                                          VOLUNTEERS, 38
Kelly Hudson, Educator                                    937-767-2161
Rachel Isaacson, Americorps VISTA                                                                         SNAPSHOTS Around and About Agraria, AMY HARPER 40
Susan Jennings, Executive Director                                                                        CALENDAR, 46
Stephanie Kelly, Educator
                                                                                                          Electric Blue Songs to Nurture the Spirit, EMILY FOUBERT 48
Alex Klug, Food and Farm Program Manager
Matthew Lawson, Project Manager                           CENTER FOR REGENERATIVE PRACTICE                FUNDR AISING UPDATES, 49

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INTRODUCTION

                                                                                                                                   about food legacies—Gabby Loomis-Amrhein asks us to                antioxidants, while other spinach may have only a small
BY SHERYL CUNNINGHAM                                                                                                               pay attention to where and who we are as we forage and             amount? Megan Bachman’s interview with Elaine Ingham
                                                                                                                                   the impacts our foraging might have on ecosystem health.           puts a new spin on an old idea—you are what you eat—to
                                                                                                                                   Caressa Brown and Kenisha Robinson turn our attention              make the connection between healthier soils and healthier
                                                                                                                                   toward their family histories, and their grandfathers’ and         humans. In her feature on Leslie Edmunds of Clem &
                                                                                                                                   fathers’ relationships with growing food, and how those            Thyme Nutrition, Peggy Nestor explains that there is work

An Invitation to Pay Attention                                                                                                     growing lessons are connected to their present and future,
                                                                                                                                   and that of their community. Cheryl Smith looks back
                                                                                                                                                                                                      being done, just down the road, for people hungry to learn
                                                                                                                                                                                                      about the healing power of real, whole food.

— and Thrive                                                                                                                       toward the decline of her childhood home in Dayton,                     Susan Jennings asks us to pay attention to the
                                                                                                                                   and the liberatory capacity of land reclamation and food           bigger picture, and how new understandings of our
                                                                                                                                                                                                      interconnectedness with each other and the planet can lead
                                                                                                                                   production for Black Americans.
                                                                                                                                                                                                      us to a healthful future.
                                                                                                                                        Other writers featured in this edition ask us to pay
      I started to grow some of my own food in the spring of           Nope.                                                                                                                               What do we need to thrive? At Agraria, the answers start
                                                                                                                                   attention to the relationship between soil, food, human
2009. I knew nothing about soil health, but the house I had            Soil. Depleted soil. I was asking plants to grow without                                                                       in the soil.
                                                                                                                                   health, and the health of ecosystems. Jim Linne walks us
moved into had a big garden and I decided to use it. I got on      paying attention to what they needed to thrive.
                                                                                                                                   through rebuilding a farm, literally from the ground up,           Sheryl Cunningham is president of the Agraria Board
the Internet and read about something called the “double-          What do we need to thrive? And who, or what, counts as
                                                                                                                                   while Dan Kittredge directs our attention to the mystery of        of Trustees and a communication professor and faculty
dig” method, a sort of tilling by hand. That sounded good          “we”?
                                                                                                                                   nutrient density—how can some spinach be packed with               sustainability coordinator at Wittenberg University.
to me. It turned out to be an enormous amount of work and              The writers featured in this edition of the Agraria
I’m still not sure if my lower back has ever forgiven me for it.   Journal ask us for something, though they do so gently and
I planted what seemed like everything that first spring—and        with encouragement. They ask us to pay attention to the food
it all grew!                                                       we put into our bodies, how it was grown, and by whom.
      Year two, my back and I decided not to double dig.
Instead, I attempted to till in a rather clueless way, the
                                                                   They also ask us to pay attention to the legacies of food and
                                                                   growing, what has been lost, and what can and should be             What’s in a Name?
borrowed tiller bucking left and right, raked a bit of the soil    regained.
                                                                                                                                       Over the years our organization has gone by different
around, and weeded what was left. My food grew again,                  Beth Bridgeman talks to us about skills from the past
                                                                                                                                       names, but the work has been essentially the same:
but not as well. Too much water? Not enough? Too humid?            and the joy that comes with learning that they are still
                                                                                                                                   to research, educate and promote community as both a
Plants in the wrong spots?                                         worth passing down. Other writers encourage us to think
                                                                                                                                   cooperative attitude and place-based way of life.
                                                                                                                                        Founded in 1940 as Community Service, Inc., the intent
                                                                                                                                   was to serve small communities by disseminating ideas and
                                                                                                                                   strategies for their economic and cultural vitality. It was only
                                                                                                                                   later that the term “community service” came to mean a
                                                                                                                                   type of local volunteering.
                                                                                                                                        So in the early 2000s, the organization began using
                                                                                                                                   The Community Solution to highlight the ways that
                                                                                                                                   community — local, cooperative living — was the solution           out in several of his books.
                                                                                                                                   to many of our most pressing challenges, namely oil and                 The name Agraria speaks to the work to both reclaim
                                                                                                                                   resource depletion.                                                and reimagine a more rooted way of life in deep relationship
                                                                                                                                        In 2009, we rebranded as The Arthur Morgan                    to the land and one another. It brings us back to our
                                                                                                                                   Institute for Community Solutions, honoring the work of            foundations as an organization, and as a civilization.
                                                                                                                                   our pioneering founder and reflecting our research and                  And it brings us to another name change for our
                                                                                                                                   education prowess as a new kind of think tank.                     80-plus year-old organization. The legacy that began
                                                                                                                                        The 2017 purchase of our 128-acre farm brought                with Community Service and continued with Community
                                                                                                                                   another shift. We called it Agraria in a nod to both a             Solutions will now live on under the banner of the Agraria
                                                                                                                                   low-energy community design crafted by Pat Murphy and              Center for Regenerative Practice. After all, the more things
                                                                                                                                   Morgan’s vision of vibrant rural cultures and economies laid       change, the more they stay the same.
Jacoby Creek crossing on Agraria.									                                                                          AMY HARPER

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DIRECTOR’S NOTE

BY SUSAN JENNINGS

The Field of the Future
“The answers you get depend on the questions you ask.” -Thomas Kuhn

      As we enter a new decade, the         show up in laboratories that cannot be              extreme version of this is seeing all
ground beneath our feet continues           explained by the current understanding              living things as nothing more than
to shift as the natural and human           of how reality is constructed. When                 machines set loose in a random
systems that sustain us are increasingly    anomalies proliferate, science enters               universe. Rene Descartes famously
imperiled. Yet our greatest challenge       a crisis period that is resolved when               operated on his wife’s dog when it was
                                                                                                                                                									                                                                                                     DENNIE EAGLESON
may be the collapse of the narratives       a new paradigm arises that shifts                   awake to show that animals did not
that have guided us—narratives about        understanding and practices.                        have a soul. Materialist science assumes        other and the planet we inhabit. This       an air-conditioned office, and AI-         scientific underpinning of the Gaia
our future, about “progress” and                  It's clear to me that we are in this          that wholes can be cut into parts               thinking is evident in agricultural         enhanced humans are promoted as an         hypothesis and deep systems thinking.
technology, about our relationships         crisis space between a world organized              without fundamentally altering their            systems that suggest we can kill major      evolutionary option, we know that we       Our understanding of frequencies
with each other and the natural world.      by materialist science, conceptualized              nature.                                         parts of the food web, such as insects      are on the edge of an historical cliff.    as communication helps us to see
Some of the proffered descriptions of       by Newton and Descartes, and                             Many of our most pressing                  and soil, without harming ourselves,        We are on the verge of breaking the        that trees and plants are talking to
our present—that we are in a time of        an arising quantum paradigm, as                     problems have at their root materialist         and confine animals in darkness as if       delicate threads that bind us to each      one another and whales and bees are
civilizational and ecological collapse, a   understood by Einstein and Bohm.                    thinking. Climate change, ecological            they could be reduced to a piece of         other and the planet.                      navigating by sonar. In fact these are
great reset, a great turning, and a long          The tenets of Scientific                      overshoot, rampant degenerative                 a corporate food “chain.” In other               Yet fully embracing the arising       just a few known examples of how the
emergency — provide helpful framing.        Materialism (also known as scientism)               diseases, hunger, and inequity                  systems, materialist thinking shows up      quantum paradigm gives us reason for       fundamental underpinnings of life are
But there are longer scientific and         include the hypothesis that the natural             share a basic premise that we are               in siloed institutions and professions—     hope, and a toolkit for change available   akin to a field of energy that connects
historical arcs that illuminate a broader   world is without consciousness. An                  fundamentally separate from each                like urban planning systems that            to all. The double-slit experiment that    us in magical yet potentially traceable
context for our predicament and                                                                                                                 separate the engineers who design           forms one basis for quantum physics        ways.
provide new mindsets for developing                                                                                                             roads from the biologists who deal          was first performed in 1801—and                  Practices based on the
on-the-ground solutions to our systemic                                                                                                         with the challenges of toxic run off.       has since become the most replicated       understanding of this unity, and the
crises.                                                                                                                                         Also witness energy systems created         experiment in scientific history. This     need to repair the systems that threaten
      Thomas Kuhn’s The Structure of                                                                                                            without a concern for the limits of their   experiment shows that light is both        it, are proliferating across the planet.
Scientific Revolutions, first published                                                                                                         component parts, and health systems         wave and particle—and that waves           In natural systems, through rewilding
in 1962, is a history of scientific                                                                                                             that ignore nutrition and the need for      become particles when they are             projects and wildlife corridors and
discovery that lays out a thesis that                                                                                                           people to be in community with each         observed. The collapse of the wave         bridges, we are helping to restore
science, rather than progressing from                                                                                                           other and nature.                           function into concrete reality, in other   biological communities. In our
insight to insight in measured steps                                                                                                                  The atomized separateness             words, happens when we pay attention.      human communities, degrowth and
through experimentation, actually                                                                                                               epitomized by a one-size-fits all                This linking of consciousness         cooperative initiatives; alternative
takes its biggest leaps through new                                                                                                             materialist culture urges us toward an      to the creation of concrete reality,       work and currencies; and doughnut
theories that arise outside the bounds                                                                                                          evermore brittle centralized control        coupled with an understanding of the       and ecological economics are helping
of the accepted science—think the                                                                                                               of all systems by an evermore distant       unity that underlies all life, gives us    us to mend the divides between us—
Copernican Revolution. In this                                                                                                                  other. When drone strikes that kill         principles and practices for re-mending    and pull us back from the ecological
narrative, “normal” science starts                                                                                                              people on the other side of the             our relationships with nature and with     edge. Permaculture and regenerative
to become stressed when anomalies                                                                                                  AMY HARPER   planet are done by an “operator” in         each other. Quantum theory is the          agriculture are showing us ways to feed
                                            Fall colors along Mary's Way, the bike trail connecting Agraria with Yellow Springs.

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people healthfully while leaving food for            through the rubble? Clearly, the future               agricultural practices and the healing
our fellow creatures. And forest bathing,            is malleable, and dependent on our                    of the systems by which we share            BY DAN KITTREDGE
outdoor schools, and an explosion of                 dreams as well as our doings.                         food; and the healing of the silos of
people starting to grow their own food,                   We chose to call Agraria a Center                education through transdisciplinary
are providing opportunities for deep                 for Regenerative Practice because                     hands-on initiatives. We share our work
immersion and reconnection between                   we understand that the healing that                   with multiple institutional partners,

                                                                                                                                                       New Definition of Nutrient Density
people and planet.                                   needs to happen on the planet goes                    many of whom are written about in this
     Kuhn stresses that the scientist’s              far beyond the regeneration of soils.                 journal. Together with our funders and
tools and viewpoint determine the                    Regenerative practices are those that
                                                                                                                                                       Goes Beyond Labels
                                                                                                           volunteers, they are helping to weave
outcome of experiments. If what                      move forward people, institutions, and                a field of the future that is diverse and
we pay attention to determines the                   projects in an evolutionary-spiraling                 filled with creativity and hope. We
outcome of our future, we might                      cycle of growth and development.
                                                                                                           invite you to join us as we develop a
think of attention as one of the most                     Our nonprofit’s current work plan                                                                 As a child in elementary school I
                                                                                                           new narrative of the possible
important resources we have. Do we                   assumes that we need to pay attention                                                             remember telling my science teacher
choose to “pay” our limited attention                to multiple levels of healing—the                                                                 that I was an Organic Farmer. The
to our collapsing structures, or to                  healing of the biosphere and the                      Susan Jennings is the Executive Director    disdain with which she responded in
these vigorous new shoots growing                    urban/rural divide; the healing of our                of Agraria.                                 front of my peers by saying “organic
                                                                                                                                                       means contains carbon, so all farmers
                                                                                                                                                       are organic farmers” sticks with me to
                                                                                                                                                       this day. It was not actually that long
                                                                                                                                                       ago that a group of back-to-the land
                                                                                                                                                       homesteaders took a word that meant
                                                                                                                                                       one thing in the world of science
                                                                                                                                                       and redefined it to create a cultural
                                                                                                                                                       touch point that now has a significant
                                                                                                                                                       meaning globally.
                                                                                                                                                            In much the same way, food
                                                                                                                                                       scientists have defined nutrient density
                                                                                                                                                       differently than have those in the
                                                                                                                                                       broader food movement. Specifically,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           PHOTO COURTESY OF BFA
                                                                                                                                                       they determine the nutrient density          Bionutrient Meter developed by the Bionutrient Food Association (BFA) measures the nutrient density
                                                                                                                                                       index of a crop by its average level of      of food.

                                                                                                                                                       nutrients per unit calorie. For example,     nutritionally uniform. This assumption             effectively process standards, not quality
                                                                                                                                                       kale has on average a relatively high        is foundationally flawed.                          standards. A crop is either organic or
                                                                                                                                                       level of nutrients but a low level of             My experience as a farmer has                 not, local or not. There is no subtlety or
                                                                                                                                                       calories. By this metric then kale has       been that some crops have greater                  nuance in them.
                                                                                                                                                       a high nutrient density score. Rice has      sheen, vigor, vibrancy, pest and disease                For a decade, the Bionutrient Food
                                                                                                                                                       many more calories in it per unit and so     resistance, flavor and shelf life than             Association, which I helped found and
                                                                                                                                                       would have a low nutrient density score.     others. My understanding is that there             serve as executive director, has been
                                                                                                                                                            For the broader food movement,          are some profound nutrient variations              working to expand our understanding
                                                                                                                                                       however, nutrient density has to do with     in these crops, and these are really what          of this new definition of nutrient
                                                                                                                                                       quality, with how nutritious one bunch       I should be striving for rather than               density, and for the past four years we
                                                                                                                                                       of kale is in relation to another. Or one    a label like Organic or Regenerative               have been using the scientific process to
                                                                                                                                                       bag of rice to another. Among food           or local or Non-GMO etc. None of                   do so.
                                                                                                                                                       scientists there is an implicit assumption   these labels correlate to the inherent                  We devised a strategy to move this
                                                                                                                                                       that all kale or rice is relatively          nutritional quality of the crop and are            process forward:
Volunteers planted raspberries, strawberries, gooseberries, currants, and jostaberries in Agraria's perennial pantry garden.

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1) Identify the nutritional variation       conference that fall.                      carrot has as much copper as those             if you ate one leaf of the highest                      In 2020 we increased the number                conditions. This will allow us to
that exists in crops so that an empirical        In 2018 we established our first      three carrots, and that leaf of spinach        antioxidant level spinach on January               of crops to 20 and broadened our                    build correlations from management
definition of the nutritional density       lab to begin identifying the nutritional   has as much iron as those 18 leaves            1 of a year, you would have to eat one             base of labs from the primary lab in                to quality in a way that should give
of any individual crop could be             variation in food and chose two crops      of spinach. When it came to those              leaf of the lowest antioxidant level               Ann Arbor to the first satellite lab at             significant insight to growers about
accomplished.                               to begin with: carrots and spinach.        higher order nutritional compounds,            spinach every day for the entire year to           Chico State in California and our first             what limiting factors they can change
2) Identify the environmental               We reached out to our community for        antioxidants and polyphenols, it was           get the same level as you received on              European lab, in partnership
conditions and causal factors that          volunteers and asked for samples of        75:1 – 200:1. As in this leaf of spinach       January 1st of the most nutritious one!            with Valorex, in the
relate to those varied nutrient density     these two crops to be shipped to the       has as many antioxidants as those 75                Most impressively perhaps we                  Normandy region of France.
readings.                                   lab. We received samples from gardens,     leaves of spinach and that carrot has as       were able to build a calibration on                We added oats and wheat
                                                                                       many polyphenols as those 75 carrots.
                                                                                             This variation did not correlate       "The results we found in this short year
                                                                                       with local or organic or any other
                                                                                       labeling or marketing type. Some non-        of assessment were nothing short of
                                                                                       organic carrots in a grocery store, for
                                                                                                                                    astounding."
                                                                                       example, had much more nutrition in
                                                                                       them than some organic carrots from            those six crops for our first-generation           to our assessments, and
                                                                                       the local farmers market.                      Bionutrient Meter. The calibration is              we increased the number
                                                                                             In 2019 we added lettuce, cherry         not perfect, but we have proved that we            of farms we are getting
                                                                                       tomatoes, kale, and grapes to our              can build a handheld spectrometer at a             management data from                                                                   AMY HARPER
                                                                                       assessment process along with soil             consumer price point that can be used              to more than 125. We will            Corn, bean, and squash, known as the Three Sisters, have been
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              at the center of indigenous agriculture and food traditions for
                                                                                       from 35 farms where those crops                in real time and non-invasively to give            now have more meaningful
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              centuries. The three complementary crops grow in Agraria's
                                                                                       were grown, and management and                 readings about nutrient density in food.           data about environmental             staff garden.
                                                                                       environmental conditions data like
                                                                                       cover cropping, crop variety, soil                                                                                                                    to increase overall function in the
                                                                                       minerals, tillage practice, soil carbon,                                                                                                              biological system of the operations.
                                                                                       fertility amendments and fertilizers,                                                                                                                       This work has been accomplished
                                                                                       irrigation type, soil biological activity,                                                                                                            solely through charitable donations so
                                                                                       mulching etc. With the 2019 data                                                                                                                      all information, raw data, hardware
                                                                                       we now have the ability to overlay                                                                                                                    engineering, software code, etc. remains
                                                                                       all of these different dynamics in                                                                                                                    open source and in the commons in
Dan Kittredge				                                           PHOTO COURTESY OF BFA
                                                                                       relation to each other. After reviewing
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             perpetuity. We want to make sure that
                                            farms, farm stands, grocery stores and     this information, although from a
3) Build and calibrate a hand-held                                                                                                                                                                                                           free access to the best information
                                            farmers markets, ranging from Maine        relatively small data set of 35 farms,
nutrient density meter that anyone,                                                                                                                                                                                                          is available to all globally regardless
                                            to Iowa. We got local, organic, and        it became clear that no one factor
from grower to consumer, could use                                                                                                                                                                                                           of resources. We hope to have a
                                            not organic. We looked at 16 different     like type of seed, no-till, or fertility
to get a real-time assessment of the                                                                                                                                                                                                         comprehensive definition of nutrient
                                            elements in the crops, like calcium,       product correlates with nutrient density
food they want so that there would                                                                                                                                                                                                           density with cutting edge spectrometers
                                            potassium, copper and zinc, as well as     variation. It seems to be a combination
be no need or role for a bureaucratic
                                            polyphenols and antioxidants, two well     of these factors.                                                                                                                                     and a deep understanding of how to
certification system.
                                            defined plant secondary metabolites              Also in 2019 we were able to verify                                                                                                             do more well within the next five years.
4) Engage as many aligned partners          associated with flavor and nutritional     that the dramatic nutritional variation                                                                                                               The level of support for our work is
as possible who also had critical           value.                                     in crops, both in the mineral levels as                                                                                                               really the primary variable.
subject matter expertise. We call this           The results we found in this first    well as the higher order compounds,
partnership the Real Food Campaign.         year of assessment were nothing short      is present in the broader spectrum of                                                                                                                 Dan Kittredge has been an organic farmer for
    In 2017, we created our first           of astounding.                             crops assessed. The most significant                                                                                                                  more than 30 years and is the founder and
generation “Bionutrient Meter” and               The variations for mineral levels     variation we found was the antioxidant                                                                                               AMY HARPER
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             executive director of the Bionutrient Food
presented it at the Soil and Nutrition                                                                                               The staff garden on the front campus of Agraria contains native perennials as well as annual crops.
                                            were from 3:1 to 18:1. As in, this         levels in spinach: 364.5:1. That means        Staff members Naomi Bongorno and Kat Christen tended the garden on a staff work day in May.             Association.

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Edible Ethics
TO HARVEST OR NOT TO HARVEST

BY GABBY LOOMIS-AMRHEIN

     Foraging for food is an ancient             plants have on the communion I        or non-native plants vs. native plants.
tradition spanning cultures, and                 now seek with them?                   Let’s take Ramps for example, Allium
geographic and political boundaries.       • What are the potential ecological         tricoccum, var. tricoccum or burdickii.
The practice is seeing an uptick in              effects of my harvesting or           Much has been written by others
recent decades in the U.S., particularly         promoting the consumption of this     about this wonderful plant. This
among folks who appreciate having a              food?                                 native Allium (onion family) is a native
relationship with the outdoors. This       • What is the difference between            woodland plant known for inhabiting
trend, along with the current ecological         “can” and “should” in harvesting      shaded areas with good soil quality.
footprint of global trade and market-            and in eating each of the foods I     The leaves and bulb of the plant
driven relationships with nature, has            forage?                               are a delectable edible, tasting like a
                                                                                                                                  From left: Garlic mustard flower, ramp leaf, ramp flower				                                      		                 TEDDY PIERSON
created many ethical quandaries.           • If I find myself at odds with the         rich, sweet, combination of the garlic
     Some that are often on my mind              questions above or similar ones,      and onion commonly found in U.S.           fraction of a given patch or population,   potential to outcompete native plants        however, in relation to garlic mustard
include:                                         are there alternatives or do I need   supermarket chains. It is often made       while others still will encourage          such as ramps, increasing the already        consumption over ramps. I am a
• Whose land am I on and what                    to set boundaries with myself now     into pesto, used as an onion/garlic        foragers to eat other plants entirely.     ecologically cumbersome footprint of         forager on colonized land who is
     does that mean about how I should           in relation to these foods?           garnish, and of course the foragers        In the case of ramps, this often looks     the history of this country.                 descended from colonizers. My colonial
     forage and what I eat?                      This last question is becoming a      favorite in many places, cooked low        like never harvesting the bulb, only            This plant, in the Brassica or          relation to ramps and to garlic mustard
• What bearing does the way my             hot one in foraging circles, particularly   and slow in butter with morels, which      taking one leaf from a plant of two        mustard family, is also edible in a          are different than the relationships
     ancestors’ interactions with these    as it involves the concept of “invasive”    also appear in early to mid-spring.        or more leaves, and only taking a          garlicky way. As its common name             other peoples hold with these plants.
                                                                                             The questions when applied here,     fraction of these leaves per patch, with   suggests, garlic mustard is more of a        Far be it from me to suggest to any
                                                                                       bring some issues to the table. Ramps      the harvest spread across the patch.       garlic/mustard taste combination             native person what they should and
                                                                                       are a plant with a reproductive life       The percentage of patch harvested          when set beside the sweet garlic/onion       should not eat on their land. Far be
                                                                                       cycle regularly documented at up           varies widely. I have seen folks suggest   flavor of ramps. I will not lie; ramps       it from me to suggest to historically
                                                                                       to seven years. This means it takes        everything from 1/3 to 1/250th of any      easily outcompete in the kitchen.            and systemically impoverished
                                                                                       the plant up to seven years to reach       given patch. This brings up another        However, I have had incredible garlic        Appalachians to refrain from consum-
                                                                                       maturity, flower, and reproduce. So,       issue though: What if 20 other foragers    mustard pesto, and mixed with other          ing ramps, a traditional food in the
                                                                                       if I walk into the woods and pull a        interact with this patch in this way?       spring greens, it gives salads a great      region. The communion we hold with
                                                                                       bunch of ramps from the ground, I’m        Such compounded foraging would             kick. Additionally, the ethics of harvest-   food and with where and from whom
                                                                                       likely not doing a great job of either     surely negate honorable harvesting         ing as much garlic mustard as you            it comes, is deeply personal, cultural,
                                                                                       stewarding the population in its own       practices.                                 can see in the name of conserving            ecological, and political.
                                                                                       right, its place in the ecosystem, or           To which there is another             native plant diversity and populations             I for one look forward to the
                                                                                       ensuring future harvests for myself or     alternative, named garlic mustard.         and stewarding local ecosystems far          coming weeks wherein I will spend my
                                                                                       other foragers.                            Garlic mustard is an out-of-place or       outweighs the potential of contributing      days after work stewarding the land
                                                                                             Alternatives, however, have been     “invasive” plant found in the eastern      to the diminution of those native            and eating seasonally unique pesto in
                                                                                       proposed. Many folks will speak of         U.S. It readily colonizes most any soil    populations. In sum, I adhere to the         one fell swoop.
                                                                                       performing an honorable harvest,           in shaded areas, though it particularly    harvest of garlic mustard to fill my
                                                                                       using only parts of the plant so it can    thrives in many of the same habitats       halitosis needs.                             Gabby Loomis-Amrhein is a naturalist, birder,
                                                                                       still grow, as well as only harvesting a   that ramps do. Garlic mustard has the           I do have a strong caveat,              and former lead on the land team at Agraria.
Garlic mustard leaves					                                           TEDDY PIERSON

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Natural Foods – Native Edible Plants
     BY TEDDY PIERSON
                                                                                                                                          Black Farming and Beyond
WOOD SORREL                                                         much information about the nutritional content of wood
Oxalis stricta                                                      nettle, though its relative stinging nettle is considered a super     BY ARIELLA J. BROWN HORN
Description: Small yellow flower with five petals,                  power in terms of its nutritional content. It is high in iron,
bright green heart shaped leaflets in sets of 3 - classic           calcium, protein, and vitamins C, A, and K, among other
                                                                                                                                                Early last year a small group of        the Justice for Black Farmers Act now
“shamrock” shape, fruits resemble miniature okra.                   things.
                                                                                                                                          volunteers came together to create            before Congress recognizes that as well                              S.E. PHOTOGRAPHY
Growth habits: Common garden and lawn “weed,” can                                                                                         a platform to not only celebrate the          as the injustices of the past that left so   of the roundtable discussions and will
form dense mats                                                     EVENING PRIMROSE                                                                                                                                                 include sources for grants and funding
                                                                    Oenothera biennis                                                     Black and underrepresented farming            many Black farmers landless. If passed
Edible parts: Leaves, flowers, and fruits. Sour, lemony taste.                                                                            community in Southwest Ohio, but              into law it would create a new Equitable     opportunities, information about
Harvest late spring to early fall. Fruits are delightfully crisp    Description: Tall (3-6’), biennial plant with dark green,                                                                                                        upcoming events, a profile of a Black
                                                                                                                                          also to take a look back at the history of    Land Access Service under the USDA
and crunchy. Can be used in salads, cooked greens, soups,           narrow, pointed leaves with a light-green or red contrasting                                                                                                     farmer from our region, and much
                                                                                                                                          farming in the Black community and            that would issue land grants of 160
sauces, garnishes, teas, and as a cool, sweetened lemonade-         mid-rib. Upper portion of the plant has 1” wide yellow                                                                                                           more. To subscribe to the newsletter,
                                                                                                                                          serve as a catalyst for the next generation   acres apiece to up to 20,000 experienced
like drink.                                                         flowers with four petals that come together to form a long                                                                                                       contact Rachel Isaacson, risaacson@
                                                                                                                                          of Black farmers. The result was the first    Black farmers annually, through 2030.
Nutrition: High in iron, calcium, and vitamin c.                    slender tube. Flowers bloom early summer to early fall.
                                                                                                                                          Black Farming Conference in Southwest         This would expand Black-owned                communitysolution.org.
                                                                    Only a few flowers bloom at a time, opening during the                                                                                                                  Our keynote speaker for this year’s
                                                                                                                                          Ohio, held virtually in September.            farmland by up to 32 million acres.
                                                                    evening and closing late the following morning. Unopened                                                                                                         conference will be Leah Penniman, co-
                                                                                                                                                Antioch College, The National           (Source: https://www.agriculture.com/
                                                                    buds are found above the blooming flowers, and seed pods                                                                                                         founder of Soul Fire Farm and author
                                                                                                                                          Afro-American Museum and Cultural             news/business/justice-for-black-farmers-
                                                                    found below.                                                                                                                                                     of Farming While Black. Ms. Penniman
                                                                                                                                          Center, and Central State University          bill-introduced-in-senate)
                                                                    Growth habits: Sunny, dry areas such as field edges                                                                                                              is a highly sought-after speaker, and
                                                                                                                                          partnered with us on the conference,                In 1920, there were nearly 926,000
                                                                    and meadows.                                                                                                                                                     we are delighted she has accepted
                                                                                                                                          and we received generous sponsorship          Black farmers, compared with fewer
                                                                    Edible parts: Taproot of 1st year growth (basal rosette of                                                                                                       our invitation to join us this year. Our
                                                                                                                                          support from Nationwide Insurance,            than 50,000 today. Community
                                                                    leaves) can be cooked and used like other root vegetables                                                                                                        conference theme will be Black Farming:
                                                                                                                                          The Ohio Farm Bureau, and Farm                Solutions/Agraria hopes to help
WOOD NETTLE                                                         and has a spicy taste. Young shoots and leaves of second-
                                                                                                                                          Credit of Mid-America as well as other        change this narrative through the            Community Land and Food Sovereignty.
Laportea canadensis                                                 year growth (flowering stalk) can be eaten raw or cooked as                                                                                                      If living through a global pandemic over
                                                                                                                                          contributions and in-kind donations.          creation of the Black Farmers Network.
Description: Tall (2-5’) medium green plant with large,             a spicy green. Harvest mid to late spring before flowering.                                                                                                      the past year has taught us anything,
                                                                                                                                          With more than 400 attendees from             We are bringing local Black and
alternate, serrated leaves. Stalks and leaves are covered           Flowers and buds, spicy and a little sweet, can be added to                                                                                                      it is that we as a society need to get
                                                                                                                                          around the country over a two-day             underrepresented farmers together
with stinging hairs. This is a native plant often mistaken for      salads or used as a garnish. Seeds have a pleasant flavor and                                                                                                    back to growing our own food, truly
                                                                                                                                          period and more than 1,000 who pre-           for quarterly roundtables, publishing a
another member of the nettle family, stinging nettle (Urica         can be roasted, used likewise as a garnish, or an addition to                                                                                                    knowing where our food comes from,
                                                                                                                                          registered for the conference, it was clear   quarterly Black farming newsletter, and
dioica). However, the stinging nettle has pairs of opposite         breads.                                                                                                                                                          and supporting our local, family and
                                                                                                                                          that we had struck a common chord             sponsoring the annual Black Farmers
leaves only, while wood nettle has some alternate leaves.           Nutrition: The oil of the seeds has the highest amount                                                                                                           community farms. Be on the lookout for
                                                                                                                                          with our focus on Black farming.              conference. These are small ways in
Growth habits: Moist, rich soils, floodplain and bottomland                                          of gamma-linolenic acid,                                                                                                        more conference details soon.
                                                                                                                                                The keynote address, by Dr. Anna        which we can be better citizens of our
woodlands, colony forming                                                                            an Omega 6 fatty acid,                                                                                                                 For more information about the
                                                                                                                                          Lisa Cox took us back to pre-civil war        community. They are also ways of
Edible parts: Shoots, tops, young leaves, and seeds. Best                                            of any known food and                                                                                                           Black Farmers Network or to offer
                                                                                                                                          times, before Ohio was a state, to learn      saying thank you to the farmers who
eaten early to mid-summer. Gloves must be used to harvest;                                           also contain the amino                                                                                                          suggestions about how we might better
                                                                                                                                          about how Black pioneers cultivated           work every day to put food on our tables.
                                   boiling neutralizes the sting.                                    acid tryptophan. Evening                                                                                                        serve and strengthen the region’s Black
                                                                                                                                          the land in this region and created a               The goal of the Black Farmers
                                   Can be eaten as a cooked                                          primrose is also a source of                                                                                                    farming community, please contact
                                                                                                                                          livelihood for themselves before it was       Network is to create a platform for the
                                   green, an addition to soups                                       protein, carbohydrates, beta                                                                                                    blackfarmersconferenceoh@gmail.com.
                                                                                                                                          all stripped away by racist laws, policies,   Black farming community to network,
                                   or casseroles, or made into                                       carotene, potassium, and
                                                                                                                                          and practices that robbed Black as well       discuss relevant farming topics, share       Ariella J. Brown Horn is Associate Director
                                   tea. Seeds are very similar to                                    vitamin B3.
                                                                                                                                          as indigenous people of their land and        insights, gain peer support, and connect     of Gender Equity Programs and Education
                                   flax seeds and can be used in                                                                          agrarian ways of life.                        with resources. Our next network             at Antioch College, coordinator of the Black
                                   hot cereals or breads.           Teddy Pierson is a naturalist, photographer, and member of the land         Access to land is one of the biggest    roundtable will be held in October. Our      Farmer Network, and a member of the planning
                                   Nutrition: There is not                                                                                barriers small scale farmers face, and        quarterly newsletter is an extension         committee for the Black Farming conference.
                                                                    team at Agraria.

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NEW FA R M E R FE L LOWS H I P P RO G R AM

     Growing a New Crop of Regenerative Farmers
     BY AMY HARPER AND KAT CHRISTEN

     A vision Agraria has had since its founding — to                    the Black Farming Network coordinated by Ariella Brown
serve as an incubator for beginning farmers — became                     of Agraria.
a reality this spring when the organization launched the                      Fellows without property of their own will be able
Regenerative Farmer Fellowship, in partnership with The                  to establish plots on Agraria and on Agraria’s partner in
Nature Conservancy and Central State University.                         Springfield, Melrose Acres Urban Agriculture Center.
     This pilot program will support six beginning farmers               Leading the training will be Kat Christen, who developed,
through 25 weeks of education and training in regenerative               operated, and managed the Antioch College Farm for
agricultural practices and business planning. The first                  10 years. She has also led educational programming on
class of Farmer Fellows is a group of six women, most of                 Smaller Footprint Farm, which she and her husband, Doug
whom are Black, Indigenous, or People of Color (BIPOC).                  Christen, have owned and operated since 2006. Supporting
They represent both urban and rural sites in Montgomery,                 Kat will be Program Assistant Kenisha Robinson, who is
Greene and Clark counties. According to the 2017 Ag                      also participating as a Fellow in the program.
Census, less than 1% of farmers in Ohio are BIPOC, and                        A unique feature of the program is the financial
                                                                                                                                             Regenerative Farming Fellows Kenisha Robinson and River Johnson with Kat Christen at Agraria. 			                   DENNIE EAGLESON
of these farmers, 30-43% are new and beginning farmers.                  support the Fellows will receive: $12/hour for 20 hours
     The training includes workshops focused on                          per week over the course of the program, from April 19              either low or non-paid, creating a barrier for low-wealth
regenerative practices and business planning as well as                  through October 8. A grant secured by TNC from the                  “non-privileged” groups, according to a 2015 study,
tours of successful farms and/or markets. It will allow                  North Central Region of Sustainable Agriculture Education           “Situating on-farm apprenticeships within the alternative
participants to build capacity for their own sites and                   and Research (NCR-SARE) program provides funding for                agrifood movement: Labor and social justice implications”
growing operations and to connect and collaborate with                   the stipends.                                                       (MacAuley, L. and Niewolny, K. Journal of Agriculture,
farmers and organizations that support farmers, including                     The majority of farm internships and trainings are             Food Systems, and Community Development, April
                                                                                                                                             8, 2016). The study called in part for consideration of
                                                                                                                                             strategies that “provide apprentice farmers the equivalent
                                                                                                                                             of minimum wage with benefits,” and ways to “supplement
                                                                                                                                             apprentices’ educational activities through the land-grant
                                                                                                                                             system, programming initiatives, and programs that have
                                                                                                                                             had demonstrated success in providing such support.” This
                                                                                                                                             project addresses these issues of equity.
                                                                                                                                                  The first cohort of six participants includes a diverse
                                                                                                                                             range of experiences and interests within the field of
                                                                                                                                             regenerative growing and within their communities.
                                                                                                                                             Participants have expressed interest in growing annual
                                                                                                                                             crops, flowers, and native nursery plants, agroforestry,
                                                                                                                                             perennial crop production, and more. In addition,
                                                                                                                                             participants are interested in addressing food security in
                                                                                                                                             their communities, learning more about specific growing
                                                                                                                                             systems, building growing capacity at their sites, selling
                                                                                                                                             products, business planning and/or meeting other growers.
                                                                                                                                             The Fellowship program will be tailored, whenever possible,
                                                                                                                           DENNIE EAGLESON                                                                                                                       DENNIE EAGLESON
Program Assistant Kenisha Robinson, of Trotwood, who is also a Fellow in the program, with Fellow Omope Daboiku, from Edgemont Garden in     to meet the interests and goals of this exciting new cohort.   Fellow River Johnson with Mandy Knaul, who provided rototiller training
Dayton, and Trinity Hoskins, of Springfield.                                                                                                                                                                to Fellows.

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Caressa’s goals for Veggie Soul:
BY KENISHA ROBINSON & CARESSA BROWN                                                                                                                                                                                                             The Urban Farmers’ Market was to
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                partner with churches located in West
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Dayton and Trotwood to host a weekly
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                traveling farmers market and also
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                teach residents of the two communities

Coming Back to the Land                                                                                                                                                                                                                         how to garden at a community plot in
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                West Dayton. This initiative brought
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                out multiple generations to learn to
R EVIVING A M U LTIG E N E R AT I O NAL L EGACY
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                garden throughout the summer of
An edited version of this article appeared in the   and were just one generation away            of debt to a white farmer in a part of                                                                                                         2020. However, due to COVID-19
Black Farming Newsletter                            from the sharecropping era. For her          Alabama that did not allow Black kids                                                                                                          related shutdowns, the churches closed
                                                                                                                                                                                                                             KENISHA ROBINSON   their doors, and the market end of this
     Kenisha Robinson and Caressa                   grandparents and great grandparents,         to receive an education. He, his wife,      Friends and family pitched in to help prepare the ground and plant the first crops in
Brown are childhood friends who                     farming to feed their family was a           and their nine young children had to        Nouorganic Farm.                                                                                   community outreach initiative did not
joined forces in 2019 to address the                necessity, not an option.                    work off their debt in the farmer’s field   but he never taught Caressa to garden                Kenisha’s desire to reconnect with the        get off of the ground. Kenisha and
food desert crisis in the West Dayton                     Both of her parents’ families          during Alabama’s long growing season.       because he wanted her to focus on                    land—and that alchemy generated two           Caressa opted to donate their first-year
and Trotwood, Ohio, communities.                    moved north to pursue better                 When winter months came around and          getting an education. She was a part                 new local food ventures in Dayton—            harvest to those who requested it and
     Kenisha is a “surprise” third                  opportunities; they wanted more out          there was no work for Black people,         of the first generation in her family to             Kenisha’s Nourganic Life Farm and             gave the remaining produce away to
generation farmer. Though she grew                  of life for their future generations.        Caressa’s grandfather had to ask for a      receive a K-12 education in one school               Caressa’s Veggie                              family and friends.
up on her family farm in Trotwood,                  Kenisha’s paternal grandfather owned         cash advance from the white family to       system, and one of the first in her                  Soul: The Urban
she did not intend to become a                      horses, raised chickens, and grew            feed his family. The cycle continued for    family to earn a college degree and take             Farmers’ Market.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                           “For her grandparents and great
farmer. Her parents grew up in the                  produce on his farm in New Lebanon,          almost a decade until one night, her        advantage of opportunities that her                       The two women grandparents, farming to feed their
south, in Georgia and Alabama,                      Ohio, and her father raised pigs and         grandfather had enough. He wanted           father and grandfather never dreamed                 completed The Ohio
                                                            hogs and grew an array of            better for his children.                    possible. She has a bachelor’s degree in             State University         family was a necessity, not an option."
                                                            vegetables and fruits around              The growing season was over, and       organizational/educational leadership                Extension’s New and
                                                            their farm while also working a      as usual he had requested an advance        and is now working on a degree in                    Beginning Farm College and went on              They plan to continue encouraging
                                                            full-time job as a mail-carrier.     from the white family that he and his       urban affairs.                                       to obtain GAPS Certifications from        area residents to adopt self-sustaining
                                                            Kenisha’s parents encouraged         family were essentially enslaved to.             Caressa begged her father for years             Cornell University, in 2020. They also    and self-sufficient lifestyles by growing
                                                            her to take a different path,        Only this time, he had no intention         to help her start and garden, and in                 attended the first annual Black Farming their own food, not only for their
                                                            toward higher education and          of having his family work it off during     2019 he drove up from Texas to build                 Conference: Beyond “40 Acres and a        consumption but also to produce fresh,
                                                            a career they thought would          the next growing season. Instead, he        a small garden box in her backyard                   Mule,” last year and recently became      non-pesticide grown produce for sale
                                                            provide a more stable and            packed up his wife and kids and fled,       and teach her the basics of gardening.               members of the Ohio Ecological Food       direct to the community.
                                                            lucrative life. She set her sights   in the middle of the night, risking their   She fell in love with the process and                and Farm Association.                           Kenisha, who never dreamed that
                                                            on college and the big city          lives. He moved them to town in Texas       power of growing her own food. So                         Kenisha’s initial goal for Nourganic she  would   one day become a farmer,
                                                            lights, graduated from Wright        where he heard there was a school that      much so, that it fueled her quiet dream              Life Farm was to plant a variety of       has reconnected with her farming roots,
                                                            State University with a degree       taught Black kids in K-4th grades, then     of owning a farm, and she flooded her                vegetables to get an idea of what would continuing the legacy her father worked
                                                            in public administration,            to another Texas town where there was       Facebook timeline with updates about                 grow on the land. A friend with tractor   so hard to leave for his family. She
                                                            and eventually moved to              school that taught Black kids 4th-8th       her garden and her desire to own                     plowed, tilled and disked a small patch   now sees farming and growing your
                                                            Chicago, where she worked            grades, and then once again to another      a farm.                                              of land for them; they purchased a few    own food as a necessity, rather than
                                                            for the Greater Chicago Food         town in Texas that taught Black kids in          Kenisha, who had moved back to                  hand tools and enlisted some family       an option. “It’s interesting how history
                                                            Depository, the food bank for        9th-12th grades.                            Ohio to help care for her ailing father,             and friends to assist with planting and   repeats itself,” she says.
                                                            Cook County.                              Caressa’s father migrated to           saw Caressa’s post, and reached out                  harvesting. The experience helped
                                                               Caressa, is the youngest child    Dayton, Ohio, after serving in the U.S.     to her with an offer: the opportunity                renew Kenisha’s connection to and love Kenisha Robinson is program assistant for
                                                            of a Jim Crow-era sharecropper       Marine Corps, and relocated back to         to grow on her family-owned property                 of nature. She not only wants to restore the Regenerative Farming Fellowship Program
                                                            from Alabama. Her grandfather        Texas, after she graduated from high        in Trotwood, which had lain dormant                  the land that her family once worked      and also one of six Fellows participating in
                                                            found himself stuck in a cycle       school. He had always kept a garden,        for years. Caressa’s vision sparked                  but also use it to help her community.    the program.
Kinesha Robinson and Caressa Brown

18         AGRARIA JOURNAL 2021                                                                                                                                                                                                                    AGRARIA JOURNAL 2021               19
viruses, protozoa and fungi and their       forever, and you are never going to            slowly killing ourselves? The epidemic
                                                                                                                               collective genetic material present in      solve that problem,” Ingham said. “And         of chronic diseases correlates well with
As Below, So Above: From Healthy Soil to Healthy Body                                                                          the soil/gastrointestinal tract.”           that’s what fixing the biology in the soil     the ecological devastation of our soils.
                                                                                                                                    These microorganisms essentially       will do.”                                           Take the use of the popular
A CONVERSATION WITH ELAINE INGHAM
                                                                                                                               serve the same function in both                   When Ingram started her work,            pesticide glyphosate. As Ingham
                                                                                                                               places. They help the plant’s roots         nearly all soil research focused on the        explained at the Ohio Ecological Food
BY MEGAN BACHMAN                                                                                                               in the soil, and the gut microflora,        mineral content, not the biology, of the       and Farm Conference in February
                                                                                                                               optimally absorb nutrients from their       soil. But without microorganisms soil is       2021, when glyphosate accumulates
     I remember the first time I heard   food movement, and the whole foods         That’s thanks to the pioneering work of
                                                                                                                               environment, Ingham explained in a          more like “dirt,” she says. In 1978, she       in the soil, the soil can no longer hold
the saying, “You are what you eat.”      movement expanded that initial             Elaine Ingham of the Soil Food Web
                                                                                                                               recent Zoom interview.                      started her Ph.D. research by asking           mineral nutrients for plants. In high
I was young enough to be a little        realization. I sought to avoid food        School, who’s been studying soil life
                                                                                                                                    “The microorganisms need to be         university professors in agriculture all       enough concentrations, plants will
unsettled by the idea that I might       grown with toxic chemicals, eschew         (and its relationship to human life) for
                                                                                                                               in your food so that you always have        across the country whether she should          actually absorb glyphosate, which
become a “chicken” or “popsicle”         overly processed food, and choose          going on five decades.
                                                                                                                               the correct amount of microorganisms
but old enough to understand that        fresher foods closer to home.                   To Ingham, it all comes down to
                                                                                                                               in your body,” she said. “The cells                “They all said, ‘You shouldn’t do that because
what I put into my body affected my           But it wasn’t until I learned about   the diversity of the microbiome — in
                                                                                                                               lining your intestines, your colon allow
constitution.                            the connection between healthy soils       both our soil and our digestive system.
                                                                                                                               the uptake of the nutrients into the
                                                                                                                                                                                  these organisms do nothing in the soil.' That’s
     As I grew up, my awareness of       and human health did I fully appreciate    She defines “microbiome” as “the
the organics movement, the local         the phrase, “You are what you eat.”        totality of microorganisms, bacteria,
                                                                                                                               bloodstream, and that is mediated by a             how bad our understanding of soil really was.”
                                                                                                                               whole bunch of microorganisms.”
                                                                                                                                    Take two apples, Ingram says.          look at the role of fungi in soil.             means, yes, we are eating glyphosate.
                                                                                                                               One is grown naturally, the other                 “They all said, ‘You shouldn’t           What does that do to our body?
                                                                                                                               sprayed with fungicides to kill apple       do that because these organisms do                   “It’s doing exactly the same thing
                                                                                                                               scab. Though both technically apples,       nothing in the soil,’” Ingham recalls.         in your microbiome as in the soil, which
                                                                                                                               the sprayed one now lacks the healthy       “That’s how bad our understanding of           is to kill those beneficial organisms,”
                                                                                                                               microorganisms your body needs to get       soil really was.”                              Ingham said, “And it’s withholding
                                                                                                                               the most out of the apple, since at least         Since then, advances in ways to          nutrients from your gut microflora —
                                                                                                                               50% of the beneficial organisms have        image microorganisms, such as x‐ray            from your digestive system — so you
                                                                                                                               been killed.                                shadow microscopy, have helped shed            can’t obtain the nutrients that you
                                                                                                                                    “Where are the good guys going         light on their role in the larger soil         want.”
                                                                                                                               to come back from if you spray that         food web. The realization of just how                Healthy soil grows plants that are
                                                                                                                               orchard?” she asks.                         biodiverse healthy ecosystems are, was         unstressed and resistant to disease. But
                                                                                                                                    Instead, Ingham says, eat straight     a wake-up call.                                when we eat fragile plants, our human
                                                                                                                               from the garden, gently wash produce              “The Bible lists 5,000 species, and      health becomes fragile too.
                                                                                                                               — don’t scrub or use harsh soaps —          the people at Michigan State University              “We’ve got to understand that
                                                                                                                               and be sure to compost to continue the      showed that in a one-acre woodlot in           these two things are related,” Ingham
                                                                                                                               cycle.                                      Michigan [there were] over one million         said. “We need billions and billions of
                                                                                                                                    The popularity of probiotics in        species,” Ingham said.                         bacteria — on the outside when we
                                                                                                                               recent years is one way to improve gut            But change in the larger                 have to grow plants and on the inside
                                                                                                                               health, especially since 60 percent of      agriculture industry has been slow. In         when we’re growing human beings.”
                                                                                                                               the immune system is located there.         the meantime, we’re losing species of                Now, I know that if I am what I
                                                                                                                               But why not go to the literal root of the   bacteria, fungi and protozoa that may          eat, I actually am the soil in which my
                                                                                                                               problem? After all, biologically diverse    never return, Ingham says.                     food is grown. And I sure don’t want to
                                                                                                                               soil not only improves plant health and           “One suspects that we are getting        be dirt.
                                                                                                                               water retention, it also sequesters more    close to the no-return point, where the
                                                                                                                               carbon from the atmosphere, Ingham          last of the land is desertified,” she said.    Megan Bachman is a board member of
                                                                                                                               notes.                                            And fundamentally, if we are             Agraria and editor of the Yellow Springs
                                                                                                                                    “You can try to fix the symptom        killing the life in the soil, aren’t we also   News.
                                                                GRAPHIC COURTESY OF ELAINE INGHAM, SOIL FOOD WEB SCHOOL

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what to do, she just needs us to get our
BY JIM LINNE                                                                                                                                 boot off of her neck.
                                                                                                                                                  Now that the farm was in grass-
                                                                                                                                             land, I introduced cattle as a way
OPT I MAL H E A LTH                                                                                                                          to build soil organic matter, recycle
                                                                                                                                             nutrients, and produce high quality

A Physician/Farmer Perspective                                                                                                               beef. Healthy soil is a living organism
                                                                                                                                             with billions of microbes in a single
As a physician, I was trained in the             to start focusing our efforts on           content of food. Soil is the foundation          teaspoon. In order not to harm the
detection and treatment of disease.              prevention. While the USA boasts           of health. Healthy, nutrient dense food          soil biology, we have avoided using any
During my 35 years in the practice               of providing the best health care in       comes from healthy biologically alive            harmful chemicals such as antibiotics,
of gastroenterology, I noted a marked            the world, our populace suffers from       soil. Our soils have become degraded             hormones, pesticides, or herbicides.
increase in diet related disease. NASH           an epidemic of obesity, diabetes, and      through the lack of biological diversity,             With short periods of grazing
(non-alcoholic steatohepatitis), which           other chronic illnesses that are related   high levels of chemical inputs, and              followed by long periods of rest, the
is primarily caused by obesity and               primarily to diet and lifestyle¹. To       bare fallows.                                    biodiversity of plants in the pasture
diabetes, is now the leading cause of            address this problem, we must change             Our current agriculture is extractive      has increased as the latent seed bank
cirrhosis in the USA. Eosinophilic               our focus from treatment to prevention     and unsustainable. Regenerative                  is awakened. The soil organic matter
esophagitis is an inflammatory disease           of disease, with good nutrition being      agriculture is a way to grow our foods           has increased from 1.5% to 4%, cycling
                                                                                                                                                                                                 Jim Linne with his herd of cattle on White Clover Farm				RENEE WILDE
of the esophagus that is due to food             the cornerstone. We need to emphasize      that mimics Nature. It is a system that          carbon dioxide out of the atmosphere
allergies. It causes painful swallowing          whole foods as opposed to the highly       produces healthy, nutrient dense food            and sequestering it in the soil. This   only grass, sunshine, and water—the                              The presence of birds of prey are an
and dysphagia (difficulty swallowing).           processed, high calorie, hyperpalatable    while continuously building topsoil.             has resulted in improved soil structure way Nature intended.                                             indication of a healthy ecosystem with
Once rare, it is now the leading cause           foods that are often deficient in          It helps restore our broken carbon and           with better water infiltration and water     Testing done at Michigan State                              a well-functioning food web.
of food becoming lodged in the                   nutrients and minerals.²,³                 water cycles.                                    holding capacity. We can now hold       University confirms the high mineral,                                 A holistic definition of health
esophagus.                                            As a farmer, I have developed               As a first-generation farmer, my           an additional 50,000 gallons of water   vitamin, and omega-3 fatty acid                                  includes the health of the planet as well
     The costs associated with the               a more holistic view of health and         goal was to farm regeneratively. The                                                                      content of our beef.4                           as all of its inhabitants. They cannot
treatment of these and other diet-               nutrition that includes the environ-       farm I purchased was in conventional          "Soil is the foundation of health.                          We direct-market our                            be separated. As we strive to improve
related diseases are becoming                    mental impact of the way we produce        crop production of corn and soybeans                                                                      beef locally, providing                         our health through better nutrition,
unsustainable. I felt that we needed             food and its effect on the nutritional     with its associated tillage, chemicals,       Healthy, nutrient dense food comes a healthy product while                                                  we must remember that healthy soil is
                                                                                            and bare winter fallows. The 5 tenets         from healthy biologically alive soil." improving the land.                                                  the foundation for healthy food as well
                                                                                            of regenerative agriculture are: 1) keep                                                                  Nature has responded                            as ecosystem function. Optimal health
                                                                                            the soil covered; 2) minimal soil                per acre. Not only does this allow us   to the care that we have given to the                            only occurs when the whole ecosystem
                                                                                            disturbance i.e., no tillage; 3) increase        to grow more biomass, it also helps     land with another gift in the form                               is healthy.
                                                                                            biodiversity; 4) keep living roots in            protect the watershed from erosion,     of birds. We now have hundreds of
                                                                                            the soil year around; 5) incorporate             runoff, leaching, flooding and drought. swallows that follow the cattle herd                             Jim Linne is on the Agraria Board of
                                                                                            livestock.                                       The restored groundwater provides       providing natural fly control. Red                               Trustees and also the planning committee for
                                                                                                  I started out by planting the entire       our cattle with clean water year around tailed hawks, American kestrels,                                 the Nourishing Life Conference to be held
                                                                                            farm in perennial grasses. I repaired            from natural springs. We are able to    Northern harriers, and short eared                               June 18-19, 2021. He is owner of White
                                                                                            a large erosion gully by building a dam          produce our 100% grass-fed beef using   owls patrol the pastures and hayfields.                          Clover Farm.
                                                                                            to create a small farm pond. What                Citations:
                                                                                            followed demonstrated the richness               1. Wang, Youfa et al. “Will all Americans become overweight or obese? estimating the progression and cost of the US obesity epidemic.” Obesity (Silver
                                                                                            and generosity of Nature. This pond              Spring, Md.) vol. 16,10 (2008): 2323-30. doi:10.1038/oby.2008.351
                                                                                            is now lined with willows, cattails, and         2. Poti JM, Braga B, Qin B. Ultra-processed Food Intake and Obesity: What Really Matters for Health-Processing or Nutrient Content? Curr Obes Rep.
                                                                                                                                             2017 Dec;6(4):420-431. doi: 10.1007/s13679-017-0285-4. PMID: 29071481; PMCID: PMC5787353.
                                                                                            beautiful American Lotus water lilies.
                                                                                                                                             3. Mozaffarian, Dariush et al. “Changes in diet and lifestyle and long-term weight gain in women and men.” The New England journal of medicine vol.
                                                                                            It is home to hundreds of fish, insects,         364,25 (2011): 2392-404. doi:10.1056/NEJMoa1014296
                                                                                            amphibians, and reptiles. An explosion           4. Bronkema, Sara & Rowntree, Jason & Jain, Raghav & Schweihofer, Jeannine & Bitler, Chad & Fenton, Jenifer. (2019). A Nutritional Survey of
The pond on White Clover Farm was regenerated along with the soil.              JIM LINNE   of biodiversity. Mother Nature knows             Commercially Available Grass-Finished Beef. Meat and Muscle Biology. 3. 116. 10.22175/mmb2018.10.0034.

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