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TRAVEL & LIFESTYLE magazine SS 2019 Issue 1 www.via-magazine.com The eco-chic Excursionist trek, cycle, snorkel, meditate & dine under the stars Beyond Baroque in the heart of lecce’s architectural marvels The renaissance of Apulian rosé the golden age of puglia’s pink harvest Travel Guide the best of puglia in your pocket
P er f or m a n c e o n
a gr a n d sc a l e
The Sunseeker 86 Yacht
SUNSEEKER ITALY S.R.L.
Porto Turistico 52, 16033 Lavagna (GE), Italy
Tel: +39 0185 30 53 17
Mob: +39 366 144 0325
Email: info@sunseeker-italy.com
www.sunseeker-italy.com Italy
SEEK MOR E
EDITOR’S CONTRIBUTORS
LETTER
D
ear Reader, Sir Robert Arnold Pugin and has traveled to remote corners
Welcome to Puglia! Drystone architecture is the human of the globe and writes for Suitcase,
Perhaps it’s your first time in the southern tip of skill path that connects designer Vogue, Artforum, Conde Nast Trave-
Italy and you’re not sure what to expect; perhaps and writer Robert Pugin to his great ler and National Geographic Travel-
you’re a returning visitor or occasional resident of the region. grandfather’s iconic tower the ‘Big lers, among others.
Either way, in the land of Puglia you will discover that the excellence Ben’. Ancient dry stone structures
and métiers for which Italy is celebrated originates are found throughout Europe from Inbal Sinai
here, in between the ancient olive groves, the delicacies baking in Puglia to Scotland yet for Robert, Writer, curator, and producer of art
a family kitchen, the artisan studios of sleepy towns, and the rolling they are a symbol that stone crafts and design projects, Inbal lived in
green hills where vineyards are woven to the earth. are lasting; as for technology, he re- Milan for eight years and worked in
It is an authentic land down to the last grain, it is beautiful and rustic mains unconvinced. He is a poet at the advertising sector until her return
with an almost accidental elegance that fills you with wonder. Not heart and a master in the use of the to Tel Aviv in 2017. After graduating
surprisingly, many visitors have remained so enchanted their second English language. from Bocconi University in Milan with
visit concluded with the purchase of a home of their own. a master’s degree in Management
The magazine in your hand is the result of a year’s worth of first- Christian Koch and Economics for Arts, Culture,
hand trips, encounters and experiences across Puglia. Most times Christian Koch is a journalist and edi- Media and Entertainment, she now
the journeys entailed hopping on trains with just a small trolley, while tor who has written for the Evening specializes in cultural marketing and
other times required smart planning and pre-shipped luggage (thanks Standard, Sunday Times, Guardian, consulting for communication stra-
to Luggage Forward), a service that I can highly recommend as the Telegraph, The Independent, The tegies that combine art and culture.
real hands-free way to travel in modern times. Face, Cosmopolitan, and a phalanx One can say that her first gallery
Have a drink (may I suggest a caffé Leccese?), prop yourself in a of inflight magazines covering reports opening is her apartment in Tel Aviv,
comfortable corner and browse this issue at your leisure. Our feature on living on an Italian commune, ga- featured in Time Out Tel Aviv.
stories showcase a host of champions in the arts, design, agriculture tecrashing the Cannes film festival,
and hospitality sectors, and the travel guide offers a handpicked se- and circumnavigating 360° around Antonio Chiaese
lection of things to do, places to dine, drink and dream, followed by the world in 360 hours. He has in- Antonio Chiaese is an Italian writer
a calendar of seasonal events. It is a delight and privilege to be able terviewed everybody from Mariah and public historian currently based
to share them with you, and I hope that you will find this issue helpful Carey to Michael Douglas, and Ri- in Vilnius, Lithuania, where he co-
and inspiring during your stay in the land of Puglia. chard Branson to the Red Hot Chili operates with several groups and
Peppers. associations active in the social and
I’d love to hear about your experience. cultural fields. He loves learning new
E-mail me at: editorial@via-magazine.com Himali Singh Soin languages, visiting new cities, tasting
Himali Singh Soin is a writer and arti- new food and drinks - experiences
Yours, st based between London and Delhi. that nourish his writings, together
Eleonora Her work is inspired by fantastical with the colors and flavors of his be-
literature, the deep sea, outer space loved Southern Italy.
and botanical gardens. She has per-
formed her poetry across the world in
immersive, audio visual environments
4 5
Contents
8 22
Travel Arts & Culture
Lost in the Woodlands of Puglia Beyond Baroque
VIA explores the hidden paths in the fairytale woodlands of A tour of Lecce reveals a palpable sense of spirituality
Puglia, dotted with historic towns and countryside hospitality beneath its architectural marvels
12 26
Experiences Sports
Days of Aquamarine The Eco-Chic Excursionist
In Puglia, breathtaking blues coalesce with Unique experiences where you can trek,
vintage whites, where you can retreat cycle, snorkel, meditate, fly and then dine
between land and sea under the stars
30
14 Design
Jewelry Present Imperfect
Artist Delphine Bekaert talks to VIA about her journey
Pearl of the South from Belgium’s contemporary art scene to haute ceramic
A jewelry collection of simplistic luxury; design in Puglia
sourced fresh out of the water, woven
from the earth and handmade in Bari 34
Architecture
16 Solid as a Rock
Ostuni-based stone expert TWS has developed new
Health & techniques to restore historic masserie and create new use
for stone
Wellness
A League of His Own 36
How one local entrepreneur
is distilling wholesome nutrients Lifestyle
from ancient olive trees into a People of Puglia
revolutionary bite-sized packet The stories, ideas and innovations by the people
of Puglia, from small town to the big city
19
Wine 41
The Renaissance Travel Guide
From Trani to Lecce and across the heel to
of Apulian Rosé
It’s the “golden age” for Puglia’s Ugento and Gallipoli, VIA highlights its best
pink harvest, thanks to top-ranking addresses
vineyards and increasing global
recognition
70
Culture Calendar
A guide to arts and culture events across Puglia,
from May to October
6
TRAVEL TRAVEL
Lost in the
Hiking the Daunian Mountains in Puglia.
Woodlands
of Puglia
S P E C I A L E D I TO R I A L
VIA explores the hidden
paths in the fairytale
woodlands of Puglia, dotted
with historic towns and
countryside hospitality
A
rcheotrekking is a new kind and over. You can start from the
of experience in Italy that fo- north at Lucera or from Roccetta
cuses on combining cultural Sant’Antonio in the south.
development and environmental
tourism as a way to explore cultural In the north end of Puglia,
treasures and engage with regional from Gargano to the Daunian
crafts and traditions in a territory. Mountains, trekkers will enjoy a
The outdoor cultural sports activity cross-town archeotrek that passes
is based on walking itineraries with through woodland and villages
organized paths, ranging levels of that were home to pre-historic
curiosity and overnight stays. civilizations. The people who
inhabit the mountain range have with whom locals share stories, with the aid of public transport. at the heart is the Terra Vecchia Woodland and a botanical garden.
The suggested itineraries are suita- a natural disposition to hospitality travel suggestions and ‘slow quarter that merits a visit. Puglia’s From the early morning, local de-
ble for solo travelers, families and and service. Travelers here are not cooking’ recipes. The route covers the towns of highest peak is at Cornacchia licacies brew in the air, enveloping
small groups with children ages 12 mere passersby; they are guests Bovino (home to a beautiful Mountain, rising 1,152 meters you at every corner, making this
The Monti Dauni (Daunian Basilica and site engravings from above sea level. The Frassati Trail town an ideal stop for pleasantries
Mountains) is a series of three 3 B.C.), Ascoli Satriano (with located here is perfect for Nordic and culinary engagement.
breathtaking mountains where mosaics from the first century walking with a three-day trek and
oak forests and maple-covered and relics of the Daunians’ lavish overnight stays. Find a spot at On the way are particular points
rolling hills dominate the landsca- life) and the medieval town of Cerasa Woods to inhale the fresh of interest, including visits to the
pe. Named after the goddess Pietramontecorvino, one of the air and enjoy a rest. authentic mozzarella farms, fruit
Diana, the woods exude a certain most beautiful in Italy. The town picking from the orchards, and
wisdom, having survived millennia is surrounded by wild forests After crossing the mountains, a cooking class where amid the
of historic events and conquests, with paths suspended among from the charming town of Faeto, scent of freshly picked wild herbs
while each twist of the river greets the trees (Pila di Sant’Onofrio) you can enjoy a scenic view you can enjoy a lunch made with
travelers with legends and stories. and Tibetan bridges at Parco over the entire landscape. Faeto your very own hands and infused
Experienced hikers can journey Avventura. Built on the foot of town is composed of entangled, with flavor that suits your palate.
by foot with overnight stops, whi- Monti Dauni, the town overlooks cobblestone alleyways with be- The banquet style cooking you
le other travelers can combine the a magical landscape seen only autiful overhead arches while just will often come across comprises
View from Sant’Agata di Puglia
and the Daunian Mountains. journey on horseback, bicycle or in children’s fairytale books and outside is the enchanting Difesa a rich array of ‘slow food’ recipes
8 9
TRAVEL Fresh mozzarella di Bufala
with homemade pesto sauce.
abundant in flora and fauna.
Whether you start from the nor-
thern or southern points, the lan-
dscape is spellbinding with many
spots for splendid vistas, peaceful
observations, light lunches, an af-
ternoon rest, and dinner under the
stars. In this authentic, preserved
and uncontaminated environment,
a sense of revival takes over, even
for lovers of the big city. The sense
of tranquility and the natural silen-
ce reset your own inner rhythm,
the way nature intended.
SPECIAL STOPS
Sunset on the peak of Mount Cornacchia. La Taverna Del Duca
Photo by © Daniele Frigida (Orizzonti Simbruini).
Corso Umberto I 5, 71023 Bovino
Tel: +39 0881 966326
using local produce, linked to with countless archaeological finds Rocchetta Sant’Antonio is the
historic rural traditions. including the Roman Bridge on pearl of the Daunian Mountains, a
Calaggio River. Once at Accadia, Peppe Zullo
picturesque village that overlooks
Moving from the classical period you can pass the Rione Fossi, the region of Puglia, Campania Via Piano Paradiso
to the Middle Ages, is the town of the original historic center of the and Basilicata. At the Mother 72017 Orsara di Puglia
Troia home to the Norman Tower village where a series of caves and Church is a treasure trove of price- Tel: +39 0881 964763
and Byzantine sarcophaguses. pre-historic dwellings mark the lo- less art with works by Scognami- peppezullo.it/ristorante
The beautiful towns of Sant’Agata cations where Greek hermits once glio, Giaquinto and Brudaglio.
An olive grove in the
di Puglia and Rocchetta Sant’An- lived. The scene is rather surreal A network of trails emerges from Gargarno Promontory Oasis-Sapori Antichi
tonio are two additional stops that since the city was abandoned after the historic center to the countrysi- in Puglia. Via Provinciale Vallesaccarda
are highly recommended. Perched a 1930 earthquake devastated de, passing archaeological sites
83050 Vallesaccarda
at the top of the mountains at the town, and yet, this ghost town and the Incoronata Forest (Bosco
Tel: +39 082 797 021
800 meters above sea level and comes to life every year during the dell’Incoronata) where ancient
bordering the neighboring region Accadia Blues Jazz Festival, held
Where the Daunian oasis-saporiantichi.it
churches remain hidden in under- Mountains meet the
of Campania, Sant’Agata di Puglia during the third week in July. growth, as well as the Ofanto River region of Gargano.
resembles a city of nativity with its
Imperial Castle built on the highest
point of the town, the protector of
its people. Known for its farming
activity, the town preserves much
of its traditions from the 16th
century with a historic oil mill still in
operation.
As you complete the passage
through Sant’Agata di Puglia, you
can trek the 12-kilometer path
to Accadia passing through the
Paduli Green Woodlands, and the
Frugno stream of Monte Serbaroli,
Biking through the town of Bovino.
10
EXPERIENCES
Days of
Aquamarine
STORY BY H i m ali S i n g h S oi n
In Puglia, breathtaking blues
coalesce with vintage whites,
where you can retreat
between land and sea The splendid waters of the Adriatic
around Gargano Natural Park.
I
n Southern Italy, the land of Puglia crowds, biking among the olive trees, Back on the coast, private dinners Holidays with no expiry date can
remains among the country’s hid- kayaking through picturesque valleys can be arranged on the beach or at a easily be extended with specialized
den gems, with orchards of silver or enjoying wine and oil tastings on private castle. The team can also plan yoga retreats and holistic paths deep
olive trees, harvests of award winning land ...that’s real luxury.” says Teo dynamic itineraries for small groups in the woodlands of Puglia – the only
rosé, farmland that breeds sweet red Titi, CEO at Yachtin’Puglia. including farm-to-table experiences, challenge will be finding a way out of
carrots, and hidden grottoes consu- trekking around Matera, vintage car this paradise.
med by aquamarine water. Whether If you’re keen to explore the under- rides in the Itria Valley, cycling in the
exploring on land or just across, Pu- world, the Adriatic coast is replete countryside, and wine tasting lunches A full day of sailing and historic town
glia’s many-hued pleasures offer 800 with turquoise reefs and sea caves in a private vineyard. “Of the experien- visits, including prosecco and lunch
kilometers worth of coastal delights. including Torre dell’Orso and Grotte ces we offer, a highlight is the chance starts from €4,000 (for up to 10 guests).
Cipolliane. Sail to the Tremiti Islands to to taste the food of Michelin-starred
Overnight boat rentals with staff can
Enter Yachtin’Puglia, an onshore dive in the protected marine reserve, chefs, Antonella Ricci and Vinod
be arranged only in advance and
concierge that combines its network followed by a stop at Baia Delle Zagare Sookar, who own Al Fornello da Ricci
on-request. VIP services inclusive.
and know-how to offer specialized for a swim and visit the Paleolithic sea in Ceglie Messapica, a place often re-
experiences in Puglia, from the Adria- caves of Polignano a Mare. On the ferred to as the capital of gastronomy
tic to the Ionian coast. The team is Ionian coast, the pace is even slower, in Puglia,” says Titi. Day trips on board a private boat in Puglia.
also well prepared to provide logistic with never-ending lunches set against DON’T MISS THESE Photo courtesy of Yachtin’Puglia.
services for yachts with an impres- the backdrop of the crystal water and
A culinary experience with Chef
HIDDEN GEMS:
sive track record, and leverages its sandy shores of Porto Cesareo.
Antonella Ricci and Vinod Sookar.
deep knowledge of the market to Ph courtesy of Yachtin'Puglia
· Grotta delle Rondinelle
offer tailor-made services across the The day experience culminates with a
· Episcopina Cave
region, bookmarking Puglia as the sunset aperitif and Apulian tapas from
· Ardito Cave (Cave of the nuns)
new luxury travel destination. farm to deck, in this case, or direct
from the depths of the sea. Guests can
You can rent a boat for the day and stay on board for pre-planned dinner, Yachtin’Puglia
snorkel in silent blue grottoes, or at the special service of the region’s Vico de Lubelli, 8
simply take the slow route, with a top chefs, who sail in and hop on 72100 Brindisi
summer novel and Spritz. “Visiting board for the evening with traditional info@yachtinpuglia.com
popular destinations with the space ‘pizzica’ musicians infusing a happy www.yachtinpuglia.com
to relax on board and away from the and festive air.
Kosher food available on request.
12 13
Lakeside view in the Umbra Forest.
JEWELRY JEWELRY
Pearl of
Pearls from the South Pacific are sown onto organic thread.
the South
STORY BY E leo n ora B etesh
A jewelry collection of
simplistic luxury; sourced
fresh out of the water,
woven from the earth and
A long necklace made of organic
handmade in Bari material and a cluster of baroque
pearls from the South Pacific.
H
er designs have captured style and character – no two pieces husband has always possessed, in Yet, they need not venture far to
the attention of discerning are alike. In the team’s humble both creativity and dexterity. In fact, find it - their motherland offers
eyes, from the fashion world studio in Bari, the daily experimen- the creations of Mela Jewelry are a inspiration in spades. “We are
to the silver screen, including the tation of materials is a continuous reflection of their harmonious and children of this land”, she affirms.
likes of Mrs. Paola Fendi for whom process and “a playful game of magical union, which Mela descri- “Puglia is a hidden treasure that
she designed one-off creations. combinations and contrasts in bes as “a natural evolution”. with a bit of curiosity and patience,
Each piece evokes a simplistic continuous evolution”. reveals itself generously. This is
luxury, as if the owner has always The natural and organic materials evident in the abundant beauty, its
owned it. Specialty boutiques have Each piece is the result of a four- are of the highest quality, found mild climate, its open-minded and
commissioned men’s capsule hand assembly line, and in a world during their long journeys around friendly people, in the cuisine and
collections and she has produced that increasingly pushes towards the world. They source the raw yarn its crystal shoes - but above all”,
collections for respected American mass production their craft is an in Italy while the baroque pearls are she emphasizes, “Puglia is still able
bridal companies, designing haute artisanal treasure they intend to fruits of the South Sea, the Pacific to show itself with simplicity without
jewelry tailored to wedding gowns preserve. The combination of rope, Ocean and the Indian Ocean, va- useless refinement.”
and event locations. pearls and gemstones that dance rying in color and bathed in shades
in the light is supernatural to the of pink, gold, bronze and gray. All photos courtesy of Mela Jewelry.
Just this year, the Museum of point of fusion, as if it were retrieved
Contemporary Art Chicago (MCA) se- from the seabed in one piece. Mela From visits to exotic islands to
lected Mela’s new collection as part explains that this intertwining was artisan towns, Mela has discove-
of an artistic exhibition, displaying her born spontaneously, from the very red that the spark of creation is LOCATIONS
work among those of living artists beginning – it was never planned everywhere, essentially guiding their
worldwide, in order to explain the research yet it perfectly represents creative process at every step. She · Cheval Blanc, St. Barth’s
historical, social, and cultural context their vision. describes the birth of inspiration as
· Artisans - Toko, Nagoya and Osaka
of contemporary art. This recognition almost magical, arising from colors
· Maison K, Santa Barbara, CA
marks an extraordinary achievement The careful selection of linen, cana- of the sunset, a physical sensa-
for the husband-wife team behind pe, silk, cashmere, baroque pearls · Bocnyc - New York, NY
tion or random disorder on her The husband-wife team behind
Mela Jewelry. and semi-precious stones allows worktable. “It is magically born as · Elaine Hammond - East Hampton, NY Mela Jewelry pause for a smile
Bespoke creations are the standard the seasoned artisanal eye to be- if it were always there waiting to be during a photoshoot.
at her studio, with compositions stow depth and character to each triggered,” she affirms. By appointment in Bari and New York
made to match a client’s specific piece, a gift that she claims her Tel: +39 333 942 2154 Necklace made of organic
material with precious gem-
Vicmelafra@gmail.com stones and a cluster of pearls
woven into the rope.
14 15
HEALTH & WELLNESS
A League
of His Own
STORY BY C hristia n Koch
How one local entrepreneur
is distilling wholesome
nutrients from ancient olive
trees into a revolutionary,
bite-sized packet
T
he oldest woman in Europe velletri (Fasano), an area abundant within two hours to keep nutrients
lives in Puglia. Maria Giusep- in UNESCO-protected olive groves. intact.
pa Robucci turned 116 years Olivhealth is the brainchild of 35-ye-
old in March, and the secret to her ar-old Cosimo Damiano Guarini, a The result of joint studies with An olive grove of centenary olive trees in
Puglia with deep, intertwining roots.
longevity is a frugal diet consisting passionate Apulian entrepreneur the University of Pharmacy and
of bread, tomatoes and… olive oil. who undertook intense research in Agriculture of Bari, Guarini states
the design of this product. Olivhealth that Olivhealth is the first olive oil What’s most interesting about this surrounded by Puglia’s ancient olive follow for those who really want to
Not by chance, in her hometown of
consists of oil that is processed in Puglia to be naturally rich in product is its high versatility and trees, has also written several books visit ‘Le Puglie’,” says Guarini. The
Apricena, she is surrounded by olive
polyphenols (antioxidants) that may ease of use – you simply tear the on his beloved culture and landsca- entrepreneur published BikOliveOil, a
groves. The ingredient is a staple of
help prevent cardiovascular disea- opening and drink straight from the pe, always linked back to the olive book that features olive mills, recipes
the region’s ‘cucina povera’ where
ses, with vitamin E to protect cells packet, accompanying any meal tree. “Puglia, always referred to in and cycling journeys that pass
rustic bread and oil meet on every
from oxidative stress, unsaturated during the day. Italy by the plural, ‘Le Puglie’ preser- through rural churches, old railways,
table.
fat (promotes healthy cholesterol) Olivhealth has been capturing the ves a diversity of territory, traditions, aqueducts, and magical olive groves
and omega-3. attention on a national level; Guarini dialects, dishes and landscapes, that will have you appreciating
One might argue that only
is working with professional sports whose constant is the olive tree. the age-old wisdom, beauty and
an Apulian could develop
Where most people drizzle players in Italy to integrate the In fact, the olive tree is the trail to vulnerability of one of Puglia’s most
such a product. After all,
olive oil on their food, just product as part of a fitness regime. important agricultural treasures.
Puglia is home to some
one dose per meal can In addition, high levels of Vitamin E
60 million olive trees
guarantee the beneficial makes it an ideal nutritional supple-
and produces nearly
effect of its health pro- ment during pregnancy while the
40% of Italy’s olive oil.
perties. Olivhealth comes Omega-3 count is ideal for childho-
‘La Bella della Daunia’, how to purchase
in small packets; a single od development.
an olive native to Pu- Olivhealth is available online and
glia, is even protected ‘monodose’ contains 236
While the olive groves are located in in strategic locations across Puglia
under European law. drops of oil, tantamount
the countryside of Fasano, Guarini is www.olivhealth.it
to one classic tablespoon.
Guarini has intentionally often on the road for presentations
Now, one local agronomist
and entrepreneur has deve- developed the product this with thought leaders or conducting Explore Puglia
way so that while it retains the research with medical experts. For cycling itineraries visit:
loped an organic, extra virgin
throat-burning response that true Yet his knowledge of the land is www.via-magazine.com
olive oil sourced from ancient
olive oil must have, it is not bitter. uncanny. Guarini, who grew up
olive trees in the countryside of Sa-
16 17
wine
The Renaissance
of Apulian
Rosé
STORY BY C hristia n Koch
It’s the “golden age” for
Puglia’s pink harvest,
thanks to top-ranking
vineyards and increasing
global recognition
W
hich Italian region produ-
ces the most wine? Tu-
scany with its ‘trattoria’-
imbibing Chiantis? Piedmont and Nino Piccolo Architetto
www.ninopiccolo.com
its big-hitting Barolos? Perhaps
Franciacorta, accomplishing a
turnover of never-ending bottles of
Prosecco?
It’s actually Puglia. The volumes of
vino produced by Italy’s sunbaked
heel are staggering: nine million hec-
toliters in 2017 alone. That nearly
equals Chile’s entire output and is
more wine produced than the whole
of Germany.
Yet, until recently, many Italians
sniffed at the idea of supping wine
from the land of ‘terroni’ (peasants).
Indeed, most Apulian grapes ended
up fortifying table wine or being
blended into vermouth.
Today, it’s a different story. Puglia
still shifts huge quantities of wine,
but oenophiles across the globe are
now finally raving about its quality.
This is thanks, partly, to Apulian
winemakers better promoting their
18wine
Lunch and wine tasting setup
at the Tormaresca Wine Resort.
Photo courtesy of Tormaresca.
harvest online but, it is also due to with skin”, something Apulian
growing appreciation for its rosé. ‘rosato’ makers like to talk about
when discussing their winemaking
In recent years, the likes of the Sa- methods. This might conjure images
lento-based Leone de Castris, pro- of rubbing grapes into your epider-
ducer of Five Roses (the first rosé to mis like a boozy moisturizer, but it
be bottled in Italy) and Tormaresca actually refers to the grapes being
winery have been garlanded with in left in contact with the skins. ‘Five selecting a wine to accompany food his soldiers. There was one caveat:
awards, while also capitalizing upon Roses’ is made using Negroamaro ROSÉ IN PUGLIA
is as important as your choice of Leone had no wine bottles. Instead,
a global rosé trend (remember grapes. According to Sicuro, “Five- dining partner, Apulian rosés are a he poured his elixir into beer bottles Leone de Castris
2016’s vogue for frosé aka frozen six hours of ‘contact’ produces perfect pairing for regional cuisine. U.S. officers had left behind. www.leonedecastris.com
rosé?). Could we now be looking at more freshness and acidity, and our “Apulian rosé is good with risotto, Winery with cellar tours & tastings,
France’s autre chic rosé competitor? light-pink color.” seafood, sushi and pizza,” says Since that auspicious start, Apulian wine bar and luxury stays
Adriano Sicuro, export manager at Sicuro. “Many people view rosé as rosé has come a long way. Today,
Leone de Castris, certainly thinks Indeed, Apulian rosés have a range a summer drink, but if you can eat glasses of these quaffable blushes Masseria Amastuola Wine Resort
so. “Right now, rosé in Puglia is at of photogenic hues, whether it’s seafood and pizza all seasons, why can be enjoyed at the estates where www.amastuola.it
the golden age,” he says. the cherry-red varieties made from not rosé?” they were made, such as Leone de Winery with a restaurant, cellar
the red soils of the trulli-studded Castris. Elsewhere, former-estates tours & tastings and luxury stays
Puglia’s pink harvest is certainly Valle d’Itria, the delicate peony of Although Puglia has been producing and ‘masserie’ have been converted
unique. The hot climate, sun- Tormaresca’s Negroamaro-based wine since it was colonized by the into farm-stays and hotels where Tormaresca
parched soil and occasional Adriatic Calafuria, or the intense coral ancient Greeks, rosé wasn’t officially wine tastings and pairings can be www.tormaresca.it
sea-breeze has bequeathed the shades of the 100% Negroama- bottled here until 1944 when Ame- arranged, such as Crispiano’s plush Winery visits at
region with a distinct ‘terroir’, not to ro Versante Rosato, made with rican general, Charles Poletti statio- Masseria Amastuola Wine Resort. Tenuta Bocca di Lupo
mention some outstanding grapes. 40-year-old vines by the two sisters ned in Brindisi during World War II, (Closed 8-19 August)
The negroamaro takes star billing running Agricole Vallone winery near sampled some of the pinkish wine If rosé is the quintessential summer
here. Its literal translation (“black bit- Lecce. of lawyer Don Piero Leone and his wine, then it’s hard to imagine more Cantine Calò
ter”) bears little relation to the fresh, wife, Donna, were making for friends apt environments in which to sip it. www.michelecalo.it
perfumed taste of the rosés made The flavor of these rosés is no less and family in the small village of Yes, the sun shines brighter in Pu- Go for the Rosa del Golfo
using this versatile vine. Negroama- exceptional, ranging from fruity Salice. The man was so enamored glia, but as its burgeoning reputation
ro is also great for “making contact Harvest at Cantine Calò. Photo by Michele Calò. to floral accents. In Italy, where he immediately ordered some for shows, so does its rosé. San Marzano
www.sanmarzanowines.com
Sample the award-winning Tramari
20 21ARTS & CULTURE
Inside a private villa in Lecce.
Photo by Marialba Pandolfini.
Beyond
Baroque
Story by E leo n ora B etesh
A tour of Lecce
reveals a palpable
sense of spirituality
beneath its architectural
marvels
T
he Baroque architecture that forty years of silence - no one mana- tions and raised the flooring; guests
graces the facades of Lecce ged to enter the property prior to the are encouraged to walk barefoot
represents just one chapter arrival of Beatrice Baldisser and her and place their feet firmly on the
among many in this historical daughter Martina Pisacane. earth - even during breakfast.
city. There is a palpable sense of A year-long, careful restoration
energy every place you go, and process was required to understand Beatrice’s aesthetic sensitivity is
local storytelling will transform an the structure’s history, its logistic uncanny. She has applied 25 years
ordinary walk into an enlightening features and hidden architecture. of experience in holistic therapy to
experience. The result is a warm and generous design every single element in this
space that retains the structure’s ori- sanctuary of hospitality, with rooms
Hospitality in Spades ginal purpose as a womb dedicated and suites each designed according
Located in the former quarters of to quality time, rest and wellbeing. to its distinctive energy and referring
the Sant’Anna Conservatory, the In order to neutralize the energies to the Hartmann Nodes to ensure
historic building was converted into of the ground, Beatrice placed the guest’s wellbeing. A ‘fil rouge’ of
a charming luxury residence after micro-crystals above the founda- services complete the experience
with homemade in-room snacks
The entrance to a suite at and natural juices, an in-house
Palazzo Sant’Anna in Lecce. restaurant with experiential dinners,
Photo courtesy of
and an exceptional breakfast ban-
Palazzo Sant’Anna.
quet made fresh every day, following
the purest biological processes.
What Beatrice has lovingly given to
reviving the structure has returned to
her in spades.
Noble is the Night
While the doors of private palaces
open to public in May (see page 62
of the travel guide), there is a more
interesting way to explore what’s
23ARTS & CULTURE ARTS & CULTURE
The Jewish museum in Lecce.
Photo courtesy of Palazzo Taurino.
Jewish Lecce
During the Middle Ages, Lecce was
Dinner party at a villa in Trepuzzi.
Photo by Marialba Pandolfini. home to a thriving Jewish community
with active leaders such as Abraham
de Balmes, a man of high intellect The location of the mezuzah groove in Facade of the Jewish museum.
who was also the sovereign’s perso- Lecce. Photo courtesy of Palazzo Taurino. Photo courtesy of Palazzo Taurino.
nal physician. However, outbreaks
of intolerance were frequent until the discovered during renovations for
ultimate expulsion of the community the opening of a restaurant. The BOOK A TOUR
in the late 16th century, essentially museum includes the story of the Tours with the museum director (Prof
ending Jewish life in Puglia. It was community that once thrived here, Fabrizio Lelli) can be arranged on
Private lunch set-up
only in 2006 that the 13th century and ends in a dimly-lit screening request info@infotab.it
in a private home. The hidden gardens of Lecce. orthodox Scolanova Synagogue in room with the personal stories of
Photo by Maria Pandolfini. Photo by Marialba Pandolfini. Trani was re-dedicated and opened families who lived in Salento. Historic Jewish towns of interest:
for worship after being seized by the
behind closed doors – away from combined with their skills, genuine The tour offers an authentic close-up · Soleto
Roman Catholic Church in 1380. After the visit, it is easier to imagine
the crowds and at your leisure. With life stories and love for Puglia, are of people’s lives with local traditions, · Acaya
the life of the Jewish community with
the help of local travel designers, the able to share the experiences with cultural heritage and healthy food all the toponymy of the Giudecca · Otranto
Because Lecce is a city built layer
experience takes a more personal guests. “Don’t ask yourself what part of the experience. One of the upon layer spanning thousands of marked with bilingual Italian and · Galatina
course with afternoon lunches, pro- you want to do but who you want to palace owners, the descendent of a years the oldest part is buried below Hebrew street plates in the neigh- · Santa Cesarea Terme
perty tours and talks with the owners meet,” says Pandolfini. noble family, offers architecture tours ground, making remnants hard to bourhood just outside. · Tricase Porto
of these intriguing homes. around the city with stories of Lecce’s find. Located on the lower level of · Specchia
Nothing on the outside prepa- famous facades. The first lady of the medieval Palazzo Taurino is the While there are more pieces lacking · Alessano
A custom itinerary curated by res you for what is inside these another family is a ceramic artist with Jewish Museum. What remains than present, the energy that · San Pietro in Lama
the Lecce-based travel designer magnificent residences. Halls that a personal collection of handmade are the grounds of a 15th century remains is intriguing, with enough · Copertino
Marialba Pandolfini, CEO and open into one another, and photos ceramic dishware and décor who also synagogue, the carved groove where history to fill a library. Books are
owner at Tourango, can open cover every centimeter of the walls tends to the artwork on the walls of the sacred parchment (mezuzah) was available in English and Italian at the
those doors, revealing intriguing of centuries before. The kitchens the palace. Lunch, dinner and aperi- Medieval Jewish Lecce
placed, and ritual baths (mikvaot) museum gift shop, as well as Ju-
personalities, moving family stories are always a point of interest with tivo with a menu can be planned with originally built in the center of the Giu- daica gifts and kosher Primitivo and palazzotaurino.com
and untouched historic residences guests curious to see what a typical Marialba and prepared by the owners decca (Jewish district) and adjacent Chardonnay wines from Puglia.
still inhabited by family descendants Leccese household really eats - it’s or requested chefs. Together with the to the Basilica of Santa Croce - all Palazzo Sant’Anna
who gracefully preserve their tradi- actually quite humble. The gardens, homeowners, architects and chefs, Suites & Apartments
tions. Marialba is passionate about surrounded by historic monuments you’re able to piece together a story palazzosantannalecce.com
her work, and is involved in creating and archaeological sites, are a place that becomes your own – an eye-
a community of local people who where discourse, dance and music opening experience that centers on a
TouranGo Destination Managment
specialize in what they do and are often arranged for guests. grand love for people and hospitality.
tourango.it
24 25
Inscriptions discovered during renovations.
Photo courtesy of Palazzo Taurino.SPORTS
The eco-chic
Excursionist
S P E C I A L E D I TO R I A L
Unique experiences
where you can trek, cycle,
snorkel, meditate, fly
like a bird and then dine The ‘volo dell’angelo’ departs from
Castelmezzano and overlooks the
under the stars Coastal trekking in Puglia. Lucanian Dolomites and beautiful towns.
W
hile luxury means diffe- a combination of adventure sports, Palude del Capitano marshlands. southernmost tip of Santa Maria
rent things to most peo- trekking, wellbeing and haute cuisi- An abundance of fossils are left di Leuca, passing through quaint
ple, the rush that luxury ne converge to reunite, reconnect from historic tsunamis, with cliffs villages, lush fields with abandoned
fuels involves feeling the rarest and rejuvenate. and abysses that are home to trulli and prehistoric caves such as
sensations, accessing the unknown flora and fauna. Going from sandy Grotte Cipolliane.
and forging a path that is uniquely Coastal Trekking coast to expansive dunes and karst
yours. Beyond seaside and nightlife Guided excursions along the Ionian landscapes it is amazing to see just Hiking along the river bend
scenes, Puglia is an experiential coast provide endless scenic shots how varied the landscape is in this Just south of Matera is the historic
playground that beckons curious of the aquamarine sea and a chan- singular route. town of Ginosa; on the ancient paths
and adventurous spirits. ce to learn about the geological along the banks of the river, travelers
evolution of the natural landsca- You can walk along the Adriatic can hike independently or hire a pri-
The following routes and activities pe between Gallipoli and Porto coast, starting from Gargano in the vate guide with excursions through
are suitable for solo travelers, cou- Cesareo. The route passes through north with its dramatic seascapes a lavish, green valley. Thousands of
ples and small groups of family and the Isola di Sant’Andrea Regional and lush forests, to the open plains years of human and natural history
friends, and even men’s retreats Park, the Punta Pizzo coast, Porto behind Torre Guaceto that meet remain here.
(an on-the-rise travel trend) where Selvaggio Regional Park and the the sea, and from Otranto to the
Charming rustic kitchens dot the
countryside, an ideal stop to rest and
recharge. Master bakers recreate
recipes by hand, and the delight-
ful aromas of freshly baked bread
merge with fresh-from-the-backyard
olive oil and wine from the region
of Gravina in Puglia. In the cool
mountain air of Gravina in Puglia,
hikers can explore the large ravine at
the bottom which flows the homo-
nymous river. Passing the labyrinth
streets of Piaggio and Fondovico
towns you can visit the underground
26
View of Torre Sant’Andrea in Salento. Views onto Gravina in Puglia.Trekkers and rock climbers Snorkeling at Punta Secca (Isola
will love the challenge of the di Capraia) in the Tremiti Islands. Seaside dinner setup
Lucanian Dolomites. Photo by Paradisi Paralleli. with a private chef.
Gravina with ancient cisterns dating the lush forest in its majestic silence and net. The beauty of this experien- Yoga & Meditation lin-starred dinner at the location of
back to the last century found only and feel the rush of an experience ce lies in its rustic simplicity; enjoy If you’re seeking your place of inner your choice or at the comfort of your
here. afforded only by winged creatures. an early morning swim and the first quiet or wanting to master the tech- private villa. Alternatively, you can
coffee of the day with the sun’s rays nique, the backdrop of centenary-old also go on market tours and tastings
Rock Climbing Biking dancing across the horizon, fish your olive trees is something to consider. with the chef prior to the experience
In the heart of Basilicata, the glo- Biking in the mountain range of the own food and head back to your The landscape between Fasano and to discover the rich biodiversity of
rious spires of the 15 million year- Terra delle Gravine natural reserve piece of paradise with a sense of self Savelletri, extending on the road to the region.
old Lucanian Dolomites rise to the park you’re surrounded by sheer achievement. Ostuni and along the coast to Carovi-
gno offers wonderful walking paths Barefoot Dinners
sky, with dramatic views and sha- wilderness, while a tour around the
surrounded by tens of thousands of What’s better than breakfast in
pes reminiscent of Trentino. At the historic villages of the Itria Valley Snorkeling
ancient olive groves where you can bed? Probably a barefoot dinner
Via Ferrata you can rock climb and lend a more picturesque experience When the ocean lures you from
seek the wisdom of ancient olive on a stretch of beach lit by torches
cross Nepalese bridges held by a passing through landscapes dotted earth’s surface, snorkeling in a
trees, silent and graceful, and roll out and the moonlight, with a local chef
wire. Once the adrenaline settles, with trulli, haystacks and vineyards. natural marine reserve is a wonderful
a blanket or yoga mat to connect to cooking your favorite cuisine. Indeed,
sample local produce cultivated in Yet a night bike ride is perhaps alternative. Down under, the tempe-
your own inner wisdom. eco-chic barefoot dinners on the
the surrounding farmland. more suggestive here in Puglia, ei- ratures are cooler, there is enough
‘calette’ (inlets) along the Adriatic and
ther preceded by a special aperitivo space for everyone and you can
The Stars Above and Below Ionian coast can be arranged with
The Angel’s Flight or well-earned after covering some explore the marine life. The Torre
After a long hike in Matera or evening the help of local travel designers. Lo-
In Italian, hand gliding is known ground under a starlit sky. Guaceto Marine Reserve organizes
excursion by the sea, stargazing in cations include Torre Colimena and
as ‘flight of the angel’ and for just Overnight options are available too, guided snorkeling excursions, while
a remote countryside location is the Castel Fiorentino. Traditional Apulian
reason. Wearing only a harness with an early morning breakfast in experienced snorkelers can access
perfect ending to a day in Puglia. music bands can accompany the
fastened with security clasps an exclusive location to prolong the the reserve by boat and explore
The only requisite is a clear sky or experience, infusing rhythm and spirit
tied to a steel cable, you’re sent experience. independently. In addition, private
the light of the moon. Book a private to an unforgettable evening.
off into the open air, crossing travel experts can arrange day trips
from the mountaintop village of Early Morning Fishing where you can snorkel and dive in astronomer or head to the Astro-
Castelmezzano to Pietrapertosa Early birds will appreciate a journey unique grottoes. Special locations nomic Park (Parco Astronomico) in
in the Lucanian Dolomites. Finally, to the open sea; take advantage include Grotte di Porto Cesareo, Salento, close to the town of Salve. MAKE A PLAN
at 1000 meters in altitude you can of the fresh still air and venture to Grotte del Soffio in Santa Maria di Back on earth, by day or under the To book the angel’s flight:
take in the environmental heritage the depths with a local fisherman Leuca, Punta Secca at the Tremiti moonlight that guides you to the volodellangelo.com
Biking in the Apulian countryside. around you with the town’s houses where you decide the catch of the Islands, and Il Curvone at Santa Milky Way, a private chef can light up For private dinners and yoga retreats:
Photo courtesy of Puglia Cycle Tours.
miraculously perched on the rocks, day and experiment with the bait Caterina di Nardò. the evening with a gourmet or Miche- tourango.com
For cycling, snorkeling and romantic dining:
tipicatour.com
28 29design
Present Experience a fusion of nature, emotions and perfumes
Imperfect
STORY BY E leo n ora B etesh
Artist Delphine Bekaert talks
to VIA about her journey
from Belgium’s contemporary
art scene to haute ceramic
design in Puglia
P
erfection has long lost its
meaning in a contemporary
sense. Former art gallerist
Delphine Bekaert could certainly at-
test that, having changed her entire
lifestyle from the fast track in search
for something else - something that
gives life a daily voyage of discovery.
As the name suggests, Delphine
was not born in Puglia nor was she
raised here. Like many internatio-
nalists that relocated to Puglia, Del-
phine owned a successful business.
She was a successful gallerist in
Belgium, at the crossroads of cul-
ture, attending international art fairs
where familiar faces and business
exchanges were the order of the day
over the course of a decade.
Her connection to contemporary art
morphed into something completely
different, though. Love took her
on a journey, she gave birth to her
daughter Lucy and while on holiday
in Puglia, she found an old property
in a rustic plot of land that was to be
Available at the finest hotels in Puglia.
her home. So she settled down
100% natural and locally-derived ingredients sourced from ancient olive trees and native grapes of Alto Salento and the Itria Valley.
and thought, “Now what?”
Not tested on animals. Dermatologically tested. Hypoallergenic. Made in Puglia.
30 essentiapuglia.comDelphine was fascinated - borderline Descending the narrow staircase is
obsessed - with glass and tableware, like traversing into another time and
buying one-off pieces at markets until space. Fresh designs are set to dry
she amassed a collection so vast that on tray carts as they take on their
it suddenly made more sense to crea- intended form and color. Her style is at
te them herself. And so, last year, she once primitive and almost infantile yet
bought an oven and stocks of clay it is endearingly playful, aesthetic and
and began experimenting - no formal practical.
training, no wheels. She scrapped To say that each piece is made with
the first 50 pieces she made until she passion is an understatement: it is
nailed the shape of her craft. formed by inspiration most of us are
obliged to find in a meditation app
Delphine has a very playful and light- during lunch break. The rural setting
hearted spirit, and coming from the generously offers magical landscapes
art world it is quite a change. Anyone with wallpaper-like scenery, the light
who is someone in the industry knows that emanates from the Apulian sky,
that today’s scene is more about and the sound of Nina Simone’s
business and less about the actual voice in the background.
art. It’s one of the reasons that she
is reluctant to build her brand on a A team of women from the nearby
global scale despite encouragement town helps her to prepare exclusive,
from prominent names in the design custom orders that require three
world. Looking down the stairs from months to complete - a maximum of
the ground floor to the cave, the three orders at a time. Where white
studio seems suspended in mid-air. ceramic serves as a blank canvas
on which to emphasize culinary
compositions, special pigments that
Delphine mixes herself, infuse joy:
grey, light pink, yellow, mint green,
and blue. Each piece - plates, bowls,
cutlery, cups and coasters - is unique All photos courtesy of Delphine Bekaert.
and built to last. Delphine calls it,
‘honest tableware handmade with an
edgy elegance and a unique twist.’ By appointment
delfinceramics@gmail.com
www.delfinceramics.com
32 33The ‘Kubica’ wall covering from the Trame di
Pietra® collection by TWS.
Architecture
Solid as
a Rock
STORY BY I n bal S i n ai
Ostuni-based stone expert
TWS has developed new
techniques to restore historic
masserie and create new use
Le Pietre Mediterranee®
for stone stone floor by TWS at the entrance The ‘Tapis’ wall covering from the Trame
di Pietra® collection by TWS.
to Villa Cenci in Puglia.
A
n expert in the processing transforms the stones in Puglia with stone and marble to create new and mainly for indoor flooring and wall of oakwood tables covered with
of creating natural stone, projects in the U.S., France, Italy unique surfaces.” coverings in bathrooms and spas, TWS surfaces.
Ostuni-based company Tipi- and Russia. VIA contributor, Inbal with delicate textures and light “Raffaella and I followed each other
cal World Stone (TWS) has created Sinai met with TWS’ Commercial Did you design this specifically for neutral colors. The micro engraving on Instagram and last September
a flexible innovative technique to Manager, Alessandra Calo, to talk the restoration of masserie? creates an anti-slip surface, where when I was in Palermo, we met for a
create unique effects and finishing about their latest innovations. “TWS started with flooring for the functionality meets aesthetics and coffee. We discovered that we share
on a variety of stone, combining restoration of masserias in Puglia. beauty. We have recently introduced a love for natural materials, passion
contemporary design with traditional How was the Trame di Pietra® Memories and the atmosphere of a new application made for furniture for architecture and many personal
materials. The result is a collection of product created? antique houses inspired our first design which uses lightweight stone experiences abroad. Our first project
stunning high-end surfaces applica- “After years of experience working collection, Le Pietre Mediterranee®, or marble slabs to create surfaces was presented during Milan Design
ble for floor and wall coverings, with on standard finishes of natural sto- which aims to generate an authentic for dining tables, doors, and window Week… with Trame di Pietra® slabs
innovations in furniture, too. nes, we searched for an innovative effect of the passage of time and shutters.” as tabletops in ‘Noir’ and ‘Greige’
way to transform such elegant mate- is therefore ideal for restoration natural stone. We now have several
While extracted from different quarri- rials while preserving beauty and projects. Trame di Pietra® is desig- What inspires you most about projects in progress - two houses
es in Italy, Morocco, Albania, France, identity. We developed a micro-en- ned for the restoration of masserias Puglia? in Florence and Milan, tabletops for
Spain and Croatia, the company graving technology used on natural as a new contemporary surface “I was born and raised in Puglia, restaurants in Palermo and Puglia -
surrounded by nature and 1,000-ye- and more coming soon!”
ar-old olive trees. Masserias and
TWS’s Le Pietre Mediteranee® has
trulli being old houses of the poor
laid the groundwork for some of the
were made mainly with local stones
region’s most successful masserie
(‘chianche’). However, they were full
projects and leading hotels, as well as
of history, embedded with stories of
restaurants and many beautiful cellars
culture, religion, and people, and are
in the region. Ostuni-based villa Pa-
thus remarkably inspiring… that, as
lombara Piccola is one of their latest
well as our continuous dialogue with
projects and June 2019 will see the
architects and designers.”
opening of two new boutique hotels
in Monopoli and Manduria.
You recently collaborated with
Raffaella Guidobuono of ‘Lefto- All photos courtesy of TWS.
The tabletop design by TWS
ver’ design to present a new line and Raffaella Guidobuono of
‘Leftover’ design studio.
EXPLORE THE PORTFOLIO
34 twstone.it 35
Completed flooring project by TWS at Masseria Salinola in Puglia.LIFESTYLE LIFESTYLE
People of
Mea Argentieri Then, like a runway platform rising
Award-Winning Writer, Activist, from the Adriatic is the infinity pool,
Sommelier & Estate Owner dug from the rock. What is a private
Apulian villa without its own olive oil
Italian-American writer Mea Argen-
Puglia
and wine?
tieri spent years looking for a home
The estate produces its own bottled
in the south of Italy. One property
extra virgin oil while harvests mature
had what another lacked, but
in the wine cellar, an achievement
neither were ‘it’. At one point during
that she is proud of.
the tireless and persistent search, a
Having much to do never challen-
friend suggested that she consider
ged Mea; it only inspires her further.
another direction. “There is a magi-
She was a sought-after broadca-
cal place you must go to,” she said.
sting executive in the 80s, and won
Eager to set her eyes on the plot
The stories, ideas and destined for her, Mea followed the
several Cannes Lion Awards for her
brilliant writing skills. She continues
innovations by the people of lead to the land of Puglia.
to write professionally, campaigning
Amid sixty million olive trees, lush
for social causes and publishing
Puglia, from small town to greenery from coast to hilltop, terra-
several books, including ‘Cowgirls
cotta velvet earth, and wild flowers
in English Saddles’ with photogra-
the big city blooming among crumbling walls
phy by Veronique Vial (available on
made couture decades
Amazon). The book tells the story
ago, the magic presen-
of a grassroots movement that
ted itself. A set of historic
saved eight acres of land
trulli built in 1640, left
Conny Paglianiti discerning clients - both local and Viale Pola 70, Ostuni to become a horse
untouched and vulnera-
Owner Amore Boutique, Ostuni international. 09:00-13:00; 17:00 to 20:30 facility, and explores the
bly beautiful, stand close
Off duty, she is also a horticulturali- Via Pietro Vincenti 2, Ostuni relationship between
The owner and creative director of to one another. Huddled
st, with her own fruit and vegetable 10:00-13:30; 15:30-01:00 women and their
one of Ostuni’s finest boutiques, the like a tribe of farmers
garden that includes broccoli, Open every day except Sunday. horses – a symbol of
acute eye will instantly understand who inhabited it, suppor-
energy, partnership for bookings
aromatic herbs and a citrus ting each other’s walls
that Conny Paglianiti wears her and strength. In 2014, meargentieri@mac.com
grove. In fact, she is well known for but retaining aesthetic
heart on her sleeve so to speak, Mea’s name was @masseria_cacatosto
her cooking and owned a restau- independence with its
with an intriguing sense of style that among the Top 100
rant named Acquasale, which unique coned ceiling. It’s
is evident in her choice of clothing Female Influencers
was a culinary hotspot for years.
and accessories. While she seems CONNY RECOMENDS: easy to see why Mea fell
in Los Angeles. Her
From the field to the fitting room, in love with Puglia and
reserved on the outside, there is autobiography “My
her appreciation for ‘materia prima’ For Lunch how Los Angeles was
a river of imagination and poetic Whole Life Came
also leads her way of curating the Osteria del Tempo Perso easy to leave behind.
style flowing from her in spades. True” will be publi-
boutique collection. Clients who Via G. Tanzarella Vitale 47, Ostuni The bond with the land
Her boutique on Via Pola in Ostuni shed in 2020.
walk through the door eye the took time, diplomacy
is home to a carefully curated selec- Beaches Her inquisitive eyes and
collections with intense curiosity, and patience to form. The ground
tion of womenswear, accessories White Beach, Ostuni volcanic spirit indicate
browsing unique pieces and testing on which the trulli sit proved stub-
and fragrances and you can see: Coccaro Beach Club, Savelletri that she is ready for
captivating fragrances of the born, solid rock land with strong
she just gets it. more magic.
highest quality. The boutique also For Gelato energy that challenged even the
When she first opened the first bou-
showcases accessories by Apulian Pasticceria Del Ciccio most creative plan. In fact, to Mea
tique 18 years ago in the historic
designers worth browsing- Via Armando Diaz 66, Ostuni the restoration was exhausting yet
heart of Ostuni, there were no such
somehow, each piece seems cathartic.
shops around for kilometers, nor Favorite Winery
to match every outfit in your A chipping course and Boules court
was there an awareness of haute Visit Cantine Due Palme and try the
wardrobe. Some of the bran- are at the front, while a free-hanging
aesthetics. Literally built inside ‘Melarosa’ wine
ds at Amore boutique include tent around the back is perfect for
the grotto walls, the boutique Via S.Marco 130, Cellino S. Marco
Compagnia Italiana, as well bookworms and afternoon medi-
was open exclusively during cantineduepalme.it
as fragrances and candles by tations. At the footsteps of the trulli
the summer months,
Clive Christian, Fornasetti, and For Bookworms are the lounge and dining area with
and has remained an
Amouage. Visit Ferdinando Salustio’s indoor and outdoor settings to ac-
enchanting address for
‘Libreria Bottega del Libro’ commodate changing seasons.
Corso G. Mazzini 10, Ostuni
36 37You can also read
