Leader of the PACK Having found fame in the Dynasties TV series, the painted wolves of Zimbabwe's
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Leader of the
PACK
Having found fame in the Dynasties TV series, the painted wolves of Zimbabwe’s
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ZIMBABWE
Mana Pools are still fighting for survival. But, with a little help, they might be winning
WORDS SUE WATT PHOTOGRAPHS NICHOLAS DYER & WILL WHITFORD
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P
“This is really exciting,” The animals’ intermittent
photographer and guide Nicholas urination signified that the three
‘Nick’ Dyer whispered next to me. girls had left their trusted pack of
“They’re marking their territory to 14 wolves after the death of their
attract males, advertising themselves. alpha-female mum and were now
It’s like going on Tinder and hoping branching out to form a pack of their
someone will swipe right.” own, a process called dispersal.
An expert on painted wolves, Nick When they eventually hook up with
was guiding my partner Will and some males, one of these girls could
I through the park on a specialist become the new alpha female –
safari focusing on these predators the head of the pack and the only
–and his excitement was tangible. one who’ll have pups. But she’ll
Mana Pools is unusual among African have a tough act to follow.
oet called out softly as she trotted national parks because it offers Their mother was the formidable
past us, her gentle hoo-hooing noise freedom in the bush: visitors can Blacktip, one of the stars of the BBC’s
meaning “Where are you?” in the drive, walk, canoe and even camp Dynasties series, narrated by Sir
language of the painted wolves. without a guide. But being able to find David Attenborough, which aired
Her huge saucer-shaped ears, long the painted wolves on foot, without late last year. The documentary told
skinny legs and mottled coat gave being confined to a vehicle or roads, is the stories of three alpha females
her a quirky beauty as she stood what makes this experience so special, – the charismatic Tait and her
deadly still and listened for her sisters’ particularly for keen photographers. daughters Blacktip and Tammy – ⊲
replies. The only response was silence.
Before she had become separated,
we had been watching the siblings
Poet, Tray and Lylie stalking impala
‘Mana Pools is unusual among African
near a waterhole in Zimbabwe’s Mana
Pools National Park. One by one, parks; visitors can drive, walk, canoe
each kept interrupting their mission
to suddenly squat down and urinate. and even camp without a guide’
Call of the wild
(left) An impala skitters
across the plain, bouncing
and jumping over seemingly
imaginary obstacles; (right)
Lylie stands over Poet – just two
of the three sisters that we
followed across the park. Both
are descendants of Blacktip,
who featured in the BBC’s
Dynasties documentary
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⊳ against a backdrop of territorial watching her daughters hunting something intangible, that had
squabbles and the struggle for their prey, crouching low as they captivated me. Perhaps it was her
survival. Tait had been pushed off moved in for the kill, their coats spirit of independence, her quiet
her patch by Blacktip and had moved uniquely patterned in a palette of confidence or her dark, dappled
to the Pridelands area, notorious for brown, beige, gold, black and white. beauty. To my relief, she’d returned to
its lions. She was never seen again. Suddenly an impala snorted – its the waterhole just as dusk was falling.
I was eager to see what was left of the alarm call – the sound reverberating Her sisters soon called out in
painted wolves’ dynasty up close. across the plain. The herd scattered, reply, running through the albida
with Poet in hot pursuit. Tray and woodland that pans out from the
Lone wolf Lylie sauntered away, leaving their mighty Zambezi River and gives
Blacktip herself had disappeared sister alone and vulnerable. Mana its distinctive character.
back in December, and is now Even in that first glimpse, Within seconds the three wolves
presumed dead. Yet I was hooked there was something about Poet, were frolicking in the dust, licking,
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kissing, pawing and rolling around mankind. There aren’t snares, they set back from the Zambezi River
together with infectious joy, and don’t get persecuted or run over, they in the Nyamatusi Wilderness Area,
greeting each other like long-lost don’t get rabies from domestic dogs. whereupon Love, our guide, insisted
cherished friends. But they’re still killed by lions and on driving us to our room. Although
hyena,” Nick told me as we drove easily within walking distance, some
Family matters to our camp, Nyamatusi. grumpy lions were loitering nearby
A century ago, around 500,000 It opened in April this year and and, with darkness drawing in, he
painted wolves (aka African wild is one of four properties in Mana didn’t want to take chances.
dogs or painted dogs) roamed across Pools owned by local operator Our home for the next three nights
Africa. Today, just 6,500 survive, African Bush Camps, a company was one of six tented rooms spread
fewer even than lions or rhino. renowned for its work with out among the mahogany trees
“In Mana, they’re lucky: they’re communities and conservation. and albidas. It was both huge and
living as they should, unaffected by We eventually arrived at the camp, solar-powered, with everything ⊲
Park life
(clockwise from bottom left)
The pack leap on their prey;
Nyamatusi Camp; a juvenile
African fish eagle in full flight;
armed guide Love leads Sue
Watt and Nick Dyer on foot
through Mana Pools; the
park’s waterbucks are easily
recognisable by the elliptical
target-like rings on their rumps
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Paws for thought
(clockwise from top left)
Blondie the lion takes it easy in
the shade; walking Mana Pools
means you get some close
encounters, as Nick found; the
painted wolf pups are adorable
but face a tough fight for
survival; the plush wood-and-
thatch lounge and dining
area of Nyamatusi Camp
overlooks the floodplain
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⊳ from air-con and a minibar, to
a plunge pool out on the deck. Later ‘Waterbucks and kudu with sweeping
that night, I heard the same grumpy
lions through the canvas, roaring and curly horns stared as we passed by, while
impala flew across the track in front of us’
enjoying their midnight feasts.
It’s a far cry from our guide Nick’s
usual accommodation. He left his life
as a successful City trader to travel
across Africa, falling in love with under a starlit sky on Nyamatusi’s Waterbucks and kudu with
Mana and its wolves en route. His terrace. “If we don’t protect them sweeping curly horns stared as we
home here is a dome tent in the now, they’ll be gone forever.” passed by; elegant elands the size of
bush, as he aims to raise awareness horses usually fled, while the impala
of the plight of the painted wolves. Sister act seemed to jump high over nothing
Following their 60 minutes of There’s more to Mana than its painted or fly across the track in front of us.
fame in Dynasties, momentum is wolves, though. Boswell and Fred But the antelopes were having
growing around the need to protect Astaire, a pair of bull elephants who a much tougher time.
these predators. Nick has spent A wild dog’s life have mastered the art of standing on The rains, which usually fall
months at a time photographing and (top) The proceeds from their hind legs to reach for pods high between December and April,
Nick’s new book, Painted
walking with them over the past five Wolves: A Wild Dog’s Life,
up in the ubiquitous albida trees, have had failed. What should have been
years, documenting it all in his new go to the Painted Wolf starring roles here, too. Boswell lush green landscapes were bare
book (see right). The profits from Foundation, which Nick eluded us but Fred was quick to show and barren by June. Most animals
co-founded last year with
its sale go to the Painted Wolf conservationist Diane
off his talent, leaning back and raising would struggle over the dry season;
Foundation, which he co-founded last Skinner and Peter Blinston, one leg upright to tear off a branch the exception were predators like
year in an effort to raise funds and his co-author and director full of food. Herds of cow elephants Scarface and Blondie, two lions we
of the NGO Painted Dog
support for organisations working on Conservation; (below) had several babies in tow, some so came across lying in the shade
their conservation in the field. Nick’s slightly gruesome tiny that they fitted comfortably waiting for easy pickings. And if the
“I want people to love the wolves, photo of pups at play was under their mum’s tummies as they lions and hyena were getting
highly commended in the
just as they love the lions, rhino and Wildlife Photographer of suckled, trying to control their stronger, that could prove a problem
elephants,” he explained over a G&T the Year 2018 competition wayward trunks. for the painted wolves. ⊲
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Three & easy
(clockwise from top left)
Following the sisters (left to
right: Tray, Poet, Lylie) on their
journey through the bush; Lylie
rests her head on Poet’s ear in
a tender moment; a formidable
kudu; it pays to be careful
around elephants, as they can
be quite unpredictable when
near painted wolves, especially
if they have any calves
⊳ It didn’t take long to find the sisters
the following morning. Returning ‘Poet raised her head and looked
from their early-morning hunt, they
were walking obligingly close to the at me. Her spirit and charisma;
her boldness and beauty shone’
road near the parched Chisasiko Pool,
one of the four pools that give the
park its name (mana means ‘four’ in
Shona). The soft morning light
turned the dust to gold, creating Tray and Lylie cuddled together and strangely ugly snort. The impala
long skinny shadows as we followed Poet lay apart, watching over them. watched us, the wolves watched
them in the company of Nick and Kneeling under a tree about 20 metres the impala, we watched the wolves:
Love, our armed guide. away, Will and Nick found the best everything stood still. Then
“We don’t want to stress them. We positions for shooting photos. Nick broke the spell. Calmly, he
don’t know what trauma they’ve had Meanwhile, I watched Poet through whispered: “There’s an elephant
since they lost their alpha female. my binoculars, mesmerised by her coming our way. We need to go.”
I always try to think how they’d be brilliant white teeth and chocolate- We moved quietly downwind of the
feeling,” Nick whispered. coloured eyes, as well as the strange elephant. Within minutes he was
Then Poet stopped. I recognised her notches on her Mickey Mouse-like standing under our tree, and then
instantly thanks to a large white patch ears and the breakfast bloodstains he noticed the wolves. Suddenly
on her left flank. Lylie was lighter than around her mouth. I was smitten. he ran at them in a mock charge,
the others with flashes of gold, while trumpeting furiously, ears flapping,
Tray was easily identified by her Trunk in charge head shaking, kicking up the dust and
satellite collar. Nick has known them Some impala had sauntered onto sending them scurrying away.
since they were pups. “Poet and Tray the scene. They hadn’t seen the “Elephants can be very
were born in 2016. Lylie’s a year predators but they’d seen us. One unpredictable when wolves are
younger,” he confirmed. barked to warn the others, a single, around. For some reason they don’t
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We walked through woodlands of
cathedral mopane and baobabs, and
through dense ‘jesse’, a thick bush
where branches flick in your face and
you can’t see elephants lurking. But
the baked earth finally revealed wolf
tracks, heading towards the dry
Mbera II riverbed.
Then we saw the sisters walking
along the sand river, their white tails
flicking away the flies. We moved
closer, eventually crawling along
the sand and lying on our tummies
behind a fallen log with our Three
Degrees just ten metres away. Poet
was on her own again, Tray and Lylie
curled up together. Tray’s collar was
like them,” Nick said as we left, her back, Tray has a pattern like a tray covered in fresh red blood.
wondering where our sisters would go and Lylie was named after a friend. Poet raised her head and, for
next. We decided to call them the The remnant of Blacktip’s pack were a moment, looked directly at me. Her
Three Degrees: the song ‘When Will still together, with most of last year’s spirit and charisma; her boldness and
I See You Again?’ seemed appropriate. pups surviving. But, following her beauty shone through.
death, Mana’s painted wolf “She’s on an incredible journey,”
Establishing a dynasty population is in flux. New packs Nick said, as if reading what was going
Painted wolves are notoriously elusive might wander outside the safety of through my mind. “Her future’s
and have a vast home range, so seeing the park, so Thomas is researching uncertain, but she’s strong.”
them isn’t always easy. The best time the tolerance of nearby communities. Then Lylie went back onto the bush
for sightings is after they’ve denned, However, lions and hyena are still the Tinder, weeing around to leave her
when the pups come out and the pack biggest threat that they face. scent and narrowly missing Poet. As
stays close to home, usually between Driving into camp that evening, if to say sorry, she nuzzled her older
August and early November. Thomas had seen our Three Degrees sister and they started to play,
Even if you don’t spot one, you’ll heading in Nyamatusi’s direction – a bundle of fur and fun rolling
still learn a lot about them. Thomas but those grumpy lions were still around together in the sand.
Mutonhori, a ranger and researcher around, too. I spent a nervous night While we watched them for the last
for the Zimbabwean NGO Painted wondering if something terrible time, I pondered their future, hoping
Dog Conservation, joined us for might have happened to them. that their constant advertising for
dinner at Nyamatusi, giving guests On our last morning, Nick had males would eventually pay off and
a fascinating insight into his work. a hunch our wolves might be further that they’d form a strong pack with
Mana is currently home to seven east in the Nyamatusi area, where a new generation of pups. And
packs, some of which are collared for their aunt Tammy had denned two perhaps Poet would continue the
closer research purposes. Thomas had years ago. They were moving on dynasty as their alpha female, as
named our three sisters as pups – Poet quickly, however, so the chances formidable and successful as Blacktip,
apparently has a P-shaped marking on of seeing them would be slim. her now famous late mum. ⊲
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Footnotes currency, though details were still
being finalised at the time of going
to press. Currently, credit cards can
are rare out of town, while power
shortages mean traffic lights often
don’t work. See FCO site (gov.uk)
be used and Zimbabwe dollars can for the latest travel information.
be obtained at banks and bureaux- Recommended immunisations
de-change. US dollars can still be include hepatitis A, tetanus and
used for visa fees and for tips. typhoid. Yellow fever vaccination
Zimbabwe certificates are required if arriving
When to go from a yellow fever zone. Malaria is
November to May: This is the rainy present across the Zambezi Valley;
season. Roads become impassable consult your doctor for prophylaxes.
and most camps in Mana are closed
from at least December to March. Getting there & around
May to October: After the rains, Kenya Airways (kenya-airways.com),
Mana becomes lush and animals South Africa Airways (flysaa.com)
are more difficult to spot. From July and Ethiopian Airlines
THE TRIP to October, they’ll be closer to the (ethiopianairlines.com) all fly from
The author travelled with river and waterholes. This is the best London Heathrow to Harare via
African Bush Camps time to see painted wolves, as they Nairobi, Johannesburg and Addis
(africanbushcamps.com, hang around the dens while the Ababa respectively; flight times
0800 041 8187), which offers pups find their feet. from around 15.5 hours. Bush flights
a fully inclusive tailor-made trip from Harare to Mana Pools NP are
to Mana Pools, including three Health & safety arranged through Safari Logistics
nights at Kanga Camp and Despite the economic and political (https://safari-logistics.com),
three nights at Nyamatusi. The woes of Zimbabwe, it is still safe. a partner of African Bush Camps,
trip costs US$9,860 (£7,878) Don’t drive at night, as street lights and take around one hour. ⊳
per person, depending on
season and the number of
guests, excluding international
flights but including return ⊳
flights from Harare to Mana
Pools. This also includes
Nick Dyer as a private guide
with a private vehicle. The
author also flew to Harare via
Nairobi with Kenya Airways
(kenya-airways.com); return
flights cost from around £690.
Vital Statistics
Capital: Harare
Population: 17.3 million
Languages: Zimbabwe has 16
official languages; Shona, Ndebele
and English are the main ones.
Time: GMT+2
International dialling code: +263
Visas: Required by UK nationals.
Single-entry tourist visas cost US$55
(£44) and can be bought when
entering Zimbabwe. The Zimbabwe
Embassy in London no longer issues
visas (zimlondon.gov.zw).
Money: The Zimbabwean economy
is in a state of flux with rising inflation.
Map illustration by Scott Jessop
After ten years of using the US dollar
(US$), the government declared
in June that the Zimbabwe dollar
(ZWD) would now be the only legal
wanderlust.co.uk September 2019 57
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5 tips for photographing painted wolves
1 Early birds
Painted wolves follow a
daily pattern of hunting at first
together while you’re twiddling
your dials. Autofocus can be
tricky if the wolves are in
expensive kit, consider hiring
instead from a company like
lensesforhire.co.uk, but give
predators are so gracious, so
stay calm, listen to your guide
and never run – there are very
light and at dusk. If your guide wooded areas, so practice with yourself plenty of time to get to few animals that you can
knows where the packs are, be manual focus. If you’re not keen grips with it before you go away. outrun in the bush.
sure to get up early – before on messing with a camera,
dawn – to see them all returning
from the hunt; their greeting
ceremonies are a joy to watch
leave it on sports mode to
capture quick-moving action. 4 Let’s get physical
It’s best to be in a low
position for photographing
5 Take a break
Painted wolves are rare,
and to see them is a true
and make for some beautiful
images in the morning light. 3 Get the gear
You won’t be right up there
with the wolves – there’ll always
painted wolves, either kneeling
or lying on the ground. Be
prepared to get up quickly but
privilege. Packs can have 20 or
more wolves, which you may
never get in a single frame. So
2 Know your settings
Make sure you’re familiar
with your camera settings
be a respectful distance
between you, so a good zoom
lens (up to 400mm) and maybe
calmly in the event of elephants
or predators arriving on the
scene. While painted wolves
have a break away from the
lens now and then to really
appreciate the full picture. You
before you go out on safari; you a converter will help you to get pose no threat might get the perfect shot, but
don’t want to miss a fabulous those intimate shots. If you to humans, you could also be missing out
shot of painted wolves playing don’t want to splash out on not all on so much more.
⊳ By car, the journey takes four TOP TIP
hours to the gate and two more to
Travel here with
Nyamatusi Wilderness Area. Public
an open mind:
transport to Mana Pools NP is very
limited and not the safest. Nyati
Zimbabwe is Behind the lens
Nick Dyer spent
Travel (nyati-travel.com) offers vehicle a beautiful five years following
transfers throughout Zimbabwe. country with painted wolves for
his new book
warm, welcoming
Accommodation people and it
Amanzi Lodge (amanzi.co.zw) is needs tourism
one of the best places to stay in more than ever.
Harare. This boutique lodge has 16 Take the time to
luxury rooms all themed on different explore more of the
African countries with a pool, gym country – Hwange
and a great restaurant. B&B doubles National Park for
from US$250 (£200) per night. its huge elephant
Also in Harare, Highlands House population,
(highlandshouse.co.zw) has 14 luxury
Lake Kariba for
rooms, all stylishly and individually
spectacular
designed, with a swimming pool
sunrises, Victoria
in relaxing gardens. If dining in the
Falls for adventure
restaurant, pre-order your meal
before 5pm. B&B doubles from and a drenching
US$207 (£165) per night. in the spray.
Food & drink Further reading &
In Mana Pools NP, meals and most information
drinks are included and are of a high Painted Wolves: A Wild Dog’s Life More online
standard. Try local staple sadza, (paintedwolf.org/the-book, 2018) Visit www.wanderlust.co.uk/199
a heavy ground maize usually served by Nick Dyer and Peter Bilston
with relishes/meat. Whitebait-like – a beautiful coffee-table book. Planning guides
kapenta fish from Lake Kariba are Zimbabwe (Bradt Guides, 2016). Zimbabwe Travel Guide
popular and avocados are delicious Dynasties (BBC, 2018) – painted wolf Archive article
when in season. Also try Painted episode available on BBC iPlayer ‘Walking with Giants: Elephants of
Wolf wines (paintedwolfwines.com), www.painteddog.org – Painted Hwange NP’ – issue 186
Nicholas Dyer
which raises money to support the Dog Conservation is the leading ‘Kayaking the Zambezi’
Painted Wolf Foundation. NGO in its field in Zimbabwe. – issue 144
58 wanderlust.co.uk September 2019
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