Magazine - Rino Burdi - C.D. Peacock
←
→
Page content transcription
If your browser does not render page correctly, please read the page content below
magazine
Rolex
New Generation GMT
Baselworld
Patek Philippe
Complicated & Casual
Introducing
Chanel Jewelry
Chicago watch aficionado
and style icon,
Rino Burdi
SPRING/SUMMER 2018 • ISSUE 2
©2018 CHANEL®, Inc.
COCO CRUSH RINGS IN DIAMONDS, WHITE GOLD AND YELLOW GOLD.
CONTENTS C . D. PE ACOCK MAGA ZINE • ISSUE 2
8 THREE LOCATIONS TO SERVE YOU 30 CHANEL TIMEPIECES 46 CHRONOGRAPHS
10 BASELWORLD 32 GIFTS FOR DAD 48 CARTIER — SANTOS
12 ROLEX — NEW GENERATION GMT 33 OMEGA — THE OTHER SIDE 50 IWC
14 PATEK PHILIPPE 34 TAG HEUER 52 ROBERTO COIN
16 OMEGA — EXPLORING THE SEA 38 DESIGNER DIALS 54 CHANEL — COCO CRUSH
18 HOROLOGICAL EXPERTISE 41 AT YOUR SERVICE 56 BLUE BEAUTIES
22 GIFTS FOR MOM 42 MONTBLANC 58 LA DOLCE VITA
28 GIFTS FOR THE GRAD 44 LONGINES — KEY COLLECTIONS 59 THE PEACOCK DIAMOND
16
22 14
10
Todd Tufts • Editor in Chief/Publisher/Creative Director Carol Besler • Editorial Director
Lori Roberts • Associate Editor Vence Vida • Production Manager/Designer
Kyle Boyer • Art Director
Prices are subject to change. Please contact the store for current pricing and availability.
C.D.Peacock Magazine is published by Tufts Communications, 600 Corporation Drive, Suite 106 • Pendleton, IN 46064
T: 765-819-2500 • E: todd@tuftscom.com • © 2018, Tufts Communications. All rights reserved. Printed in the USA.
C.D.Peacock Locations
172 oakbrook cEntEr
OAKBROOK CENTER oak brook, il 60523 • (630) 571-5355
WOODFIELD MALL E-140 WoodfiEld Mall
SchauMburg, il 60173 • (847) 619-6560
OLD ORCHARD CENTER 4999 old orchard cEntEr, SuitE n3
SkokiE, il 60077 • (847) 679-1837
swiss fair b y C A R O L B E S L E R
C.D.Peacock goes behind the scenes at
the world’s largest watch show
B
asel, Switzerland, is known for its thriving
pharmaceutical industry, its spectacular Medieval
churches, and being the hometown of tennis
great Roger Federer. But to those of us in the watch
and jewelry business, it is also the site of an annual
pilgrimage to the world’s largest, most spectacular watch
trade show. Basel has been hosting trade shows since the
15th century, thanks to its location at a point where the
borders of France, Germany, and Switzerland meet. It
is ideally positioned as a trading post for all points in
Europe, and it was with this in mind that the Basel watch
and jewelry fair, now called Baselworld, was first held in
1917. Back then, exhibitors displayed not just watches
but goods from 10 other Swiss industries, including
everything from cheese to farm fertilizers. By the 1930s,
Switzerland’s growing watch sector gained its own
pavilion, and by 1986 the fair became dedicated solely
to watches and jewelry. Today, Baselworld is the largest
trade fair of its kind in the world, with 650 exhibitors
from 40 countries — at its peak in the mid-2000s, it
hosted 1,200 exhibitors. It attracts more than 100,000
visitors every year, mainly watch buyers and journalists
from around the world who come to see the latest
treasures — which this year included several million-
dollar watches and a 40-million dollar rough diamond.
BASEL
2 0 1 8
10 ]
WORLD
C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N EThe 40-million dollar rough
diamond on display.
Baselworld is exciting, glamorous, and big enough to test the endurance skills
of even the most seasoned pros. It is spread out over six buildings and covers
C.D.Peacock Jewelers
approximately a million square feet of floor space, accessed by navigating some
36 miles of carpeted aisles. It is not open for retail sales, but for members of the
always attends the fair,
trade and press who, in pre-arranged appointments, view collections in closed
showrooms within the large buildings erected by each brand inside the fair.
meeting with leading watch
C.D.Peacock Jewelers always attends the fair, meeting with leading watch
brands including Rolex, Omega, and Patek Philippe. The goal is to place orders
brands including Rolex,
that will form the basis of C.D.Peacock’s fall inventory, expertly curated from the
thousands of new timepieces presented at the show. This selection often includes
Omega, and Patek Philippe.
limited-edition pieces created in small quantities, available only to VIP retailers
with long-standing partnerships with the brands. There were many highlights at this year’s Baselworld, including the new Rolex GMT-
Master II “Pepsi,” the Rainbow Daytona (see pages 12-13), Patek Philippe’s modern classics (more on pages 14-15), and Omega’s
blockbuster new Seamaster collection (see pages 16-17).
Now that we have narrowed down the selection to the best and the brightest, we are excited to share them with you at our own mini-
Baselworld show, complete with champagne and hors d’oeuvres. Please join us for a special Rolex Baselworld event on May 22, 2018.
C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N E [ 11time zone b y C A R O L B E S L E R
The red and blue “Pepsi” bezel is a feat of
engineering because it is difficult to align
these particular colors in ceramic. The
bezel is one continuous ring of ceramic.
New-Generation
Presenting the Rolex
GMT-Master II in Oystersteel
GMT
When it was introduced in white gold in 2014, everyone loved the GMT-Master II with its red and blue bezel. Since then, Rolex fans
have longed for the model to be released in steel. This year, their dreams came true, along with a few other tweaks that made this watch
the hit of Baselworld 2018. Not only is this iconic travel watch now available in Oystersteel, Rolex’s proprietary steel, but it also includes
a Jubilee bracelet and a new, improved, state-of-the-art movement.
Rolex redesigned the lugs and case sides to fit the five-link Jubilee bracelet, a somewhat dressier bracelet that is normally reserved
exclusively for Rolex Datejust models. Both are made of Oystersteel, the term Rolex gives its 904L stainless steel, which is super corrosion-
resistant and takes a higher polish than lower grades. The case is water-
resistant to 300 meters (1,000 feet).
Lovers of gold will not be disappointed, however: the watch is still
available in white gold, and it was also introduced this year in 18k
Everose, Rolex’s term for its proprietary alloy of rose gold. There is
also a new two-tone version, combining Everose gold and Oystersteel.
The bezels of both are fitted with Cerachrom inserts in black and
brown ceramic. Cerachrom is a proprietary ceramic alloy developed by
Rolex that is exceptionally scratch and corrosion-resistant and does not
fade. The red-and-blue bezel on the new steel model reproduces the
colors that appeared on the very first GMT-Master in 1955, and which
inspired the model’s nickname, the “Pepsi,” among collectors. When
12 ] C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N EThe Rolex Cosmograph
Daytona, set with a
rainbow gradation of
colored sapphires.
Chronograph of many colors
The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona has inspired more cult status than
perhaps any other watch model. Among the favorite renditions of the
model is the Paul Newman Daytona, a specific design named for the
The Rolex GMT-Master late actor who wore one (his recently sold for a record price at auction).
II in Oystersteel with
Jubilee bracelet. The “Rainbow” Daytona, so-called because it is set with a gradation of
fancy colored sapphires in rainbow hues, is a particular favorite among
celebrities. This year, Rolex introduces it in Everose gold with a bezel set
traveling, the bezel’s 24-hour scale can be synchronized with with 36 baguette-cut sapphires in a graduated color range. In a special feat
the red GMT hand on the dial to represent home time, while of gemsetting and painstaking matching, Rolex pairs the indexes on the
the central displays the local time. dial with baguette gems that correspond with the colors adjacent to them
All three new models contain the new Caliber 3285, on the bezel. The case is set with 56 round-brilliant diamonds,
replacing the Caliber 3186 which did not have Rolex’s new and the background dial is black lacquer, with subdials
Chronergy escapement and other improvements that add made of 18k pink gold crystals. The movement is
up to a 15 percent gain in accuracy. It has a 70-hour power the automatic chronograph Caliber 4130,
reserve, compared to 48 hours for the 3186. Like all Rolex including a Parachrom hairspring
watches, the movement carries a Superlative Chronometer that is impervious to
certificate, which guarantees ultimate precision. Among magnetic fields.
other things, this means it is accurate to between −2 and
+2 seconds per day, more than twice the industry standard
for an official chronometer.
C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N E [ 13&
time zone b y C A R O L B E S L E R
complicated
CASUAL Patek Philippe boosts its luxury sport watches with
complicated movements
Patek Philippe is famous for its traditional designs and complicated
watches, particularly perpetual calendars and chronographs. In fact,
its dedication to technical prowess sometimes overshadows the
company’s more contemporary classics, such as the off-round
Nautilus and Aquanaut luxury sport models. This year, the
traditional and the contemporary merge, with the first perpetual
calendar in the Nautilus collection and the first chronograph in
the Aquanaut.
The new Nautilus Ref. 5740, equipped with its first
high complication, created a buzz at this year’s Baselworld
watch fair. To give you a bit of history, the Nautilus was
first introduced in 1976 with a radically different design
compared to other luxury watches. First, it had a robust,
stainless steel case at a time when most watches were still
gold, and instead of round, the case was slightly octagonal; it
was inspired by the shape of a porthole window on an ocean
liner. It was termed a “luxury sport” watch and named the
Nautilus after Captain Nemo’s vessel in Jules Verne’s 20,000
Leagues Under the Sea. It has since become a cult favorite, moreso
now because it combines contemporary styling with Patek Philippe’s
signature complication.
The Patek Philippe
Nautilus Ref. 5740
now contains a
The Nautilus was first introduced in 1976
perpetual calendar
complication for the
first time.
with a radically different design compared
to other luxury watches.
14 ] C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N EThe movement in the new perpetual calendar
version is based on the ultra-thin automatic
Caliber 240, an appropriate choice for the
Nautilus, since one of the goals of the original
design was to make it slim, like a dress watch.
The case is only 8.42 mm thick, which makes the
new Nautilus Patek Philippe’s thinnest perpetual
calendar. Befitting of a high complication, the
case is 18k white gold, and the dial retains its
signature horizontal grooves, a hallmark of the
model since the beginning. The subdial for the
date, at 6 o’clock, the most important calendar
indication, is slightly larger than the others and The Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5740 is only
8.42 mm thick, making it the thinnest perpetual
combines the moon phase indicator, which will calendar in the company’s wide range of
perpetual calendars.
not need resetting for the next 122 years.
The Aquanaut, introduced in 1997, was
also designed to represent the modern, casual,
sporty side of the brand, and it therefore makes
sense that it now has a chronograph. The Ref.
5968A-001 contains the Caliber CH 28-520C,
an automatic flyback chronograph with a vertical
disk clutch that prevents rebound when starting
the chronograph. The case is steel, and the dial
is embossed with the collection’s signature grid
pattern. An embossed orange rubber strap,
matched by orange highlights on the dial,
adds a sporty touch and distinguishes the new
chronograph from other models in the line.
It also comes with a black strap, and is water
resistant to 120 meters (about 400 feet).
The Aquanaut, Patek
Philippe’s modern,
sporty brand, now has a
chronograph movement
for the first time.
C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N E [ 15time zone b y C A R O L B E S L E R
EXPLORING the
SEA Omega celebrates the 25th anniversary of
the Seamaster Professional Diver
The new Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M is the
same Seamaster we know and love, but with a few subtle tweaks
that take the collection to a whole new level. It starts with an
upgraded movement. The Master Chronometer Caliber 8800 is the
first METAS movement to be used in the Seamaster 300M family. It
is one of a new family of calibers by Omega that have been certified
by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS), a measurement
testing lab that runs the watches through a series of tough trials to standards
that exceed the requirements of the Swiss Chronometry lab known as
COSC. At METAS, the watches (not just the movements) are tested in six
positions compared to five, and require accuracy to within 0 to +5 seconds
per day, compared to -4/+6 for COSC. The movements in the watches tested
by METAS must be magnetic-resistant to 15,000 gauss.
The redesigned Professional Diver celebrates the 25th anniversary of the model
in the Seamaster collection by resurrecting the wave pattern on the dial that was Omega Seamaster
Professional Diver 300M
used in the original model. This time, though, the pattern is laser-engraved onto in stainless steel with a
rubber strap.
The new Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M is the
same Seamaster we know and love, but with a few subtle tweaks
that take the collection to a whole new level.
16 ] C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N EThe Omega Seamaster Professional
Diver 300M is a full collection with
with stainless steel or steel and
gold cases and bracelets.
a ceramic surface, a material that has never been used before on this watch.
The bezel is also made of ceramic, with numerals that have been filled in The new Professional
with Ceragold, Omega’s proprietary alloy of ceramic and 18k gold. On the
blue model, the numerals are filled with white enamel, the goal being high Diver one of the
legibility, not to mention high quality. Ceramics and ceramic/gold alloys will
never fade or wear.
You’ll recognize the same iconic Seamaster skeleton hands, but they have
most value-intensive
been subtly reshaped in the new collection. For greater visibility, the indexes
have been raised slightly from the dial and filled with Super-LumiNova. This is
models on the market.
a full collection revamp, with 14 new models: six in steel and eight in two-tone
versions, all with helium-release valves, another feature that is new to the line. For lovers of limited commemorative editions, there is also
a Titanium Tantalum series of 2,500 pieces that marks the anniversary. Instead of ceramic, tantalum is used for the bezel and the middle
links of the bracelet, while the case and the rest of the links are titanium with touches of 18k gold.
The new Seamaster Professional Diver is (and remains) an entry level collection for Omega, but the quality, workmanship, and attention
to detail in this new execution elevate it to the level of the brand’s luxury watches. That makes the new Professional Diver one of the most
value-intensive models on the market right now.
C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N E [ 17telling time B Y C A R O L B E S L E R
increase your
horological
expertise Buying a timepiece is like a treasure hunt. There are so many wonderful options to choose from
and so many new features and technologies to learn about, you may find it hard to settle for just
one watch! Welcome to the world of watch collecting! When buying a timepiece, budget will
dictate your choice to some extent, but aside from that, here are four easy steps to choosing
which one is right for you.
1. metal options
The vast majority of watches today are stainless steel, and the standard
is 316L surgical steel. Steel is strong, non-allergenic, and non-corrosive.
Another option is titanium, which is 30 percent stronger than steel and
nearly 50 percent lighter, but more expensive. It is highly corrosion-resistant,
particularly to salt water, which makes it ideal for diver’s watches. Many
metals are PVD coated (Physical Vapor Deposition), a finish that is usually
black and never wears off. DLC, or Diamond-like Carbon, is a coating as
hard as synthetic diamond and is nearly impossible to scratch. High-tech
ceramic also makes an ideal watch case/bracelet material. It is temperature
resistant, hypo-allergenic, and will never rust, rot, or scratch. Platinum is
an elite, expensive metal, often used for special-edition watches. It has the
highest resistance to corrosion and tarnish and will never chip or splinter. The
world’s most important diamonds are set in platinum because of its hardness
and durability. Gold is the top choice for elegant dress watches or prestigious
The Longines Legend
complications. Rose gold is currently gaining over yellow as a popular color. Diver, with a 42 mm
case made of black
PVD-coated stainless
steel and a black
lacquered dial.
18 ] C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N E2. consider lifestyle
Some watches are made for diving, others for dancing. Chronographs, which
time short intervals, are ideal for the sporting life, in terms of both design and
function. Jewelry watches are perfect for black tie events and the Red Carpet.
The style of a watch is geared to lifestyle or to the function for which it will be
worn. Obviously, you can buy a different watch for each aspect of your lifestyle
and wardrobe requirements — and many do. However, increasingly, there is no
need to choose one at the exclusion of another. Today, styles and functions are
blended together into one watch, resulting in timepieces that are versatile enough
to be worn on multiple occasions. You can select a sporty watch that is set with
Rolex Cosmograph
diamonds or a classic dress watch that is also water resistant to 500 meters...and
Daytona 40mm in 18K
white gold.
is set with diamonds.
3. complications
The mechanical movement — the inner workings of a timepiece — is what dictates a watch’s
function. Watch brands often use the term “caliber” to define the movement type, which
refers to the basic mechanism upon which a watch movement is built. These are proprietary
to each brand. The type of caliber determines the type of function, including annual calendar,
perpetual calendar, chronograph, and so forth. A high complication, such as a minute repeater
or a tourbillon, is priced at a premium, as these are difficult functions to construct. A grande
complication is one that has a minute repeater, chronograph, and a perpetual calendar, and is
highly coveted by watch collectors, as is a tourbillon. Another option is a watch with a quartz
movement, which uses an electronic oscillator that is regulated by a quartz crystal, with very
Patek Philippe
precise frequency. It will be necessary to change the battery occasionally. Triple Complication
Ref. 5208R
4. metiers
Watchmaking’s metiers d’art refers to the crafts involved in finishing a watch
by hand. Most luxury watches are now hand finished, either by means of
enameling, gemsetting, engraving, or inlaid marquetry using mother-of-pearl
or exotic woods. These hand finishes are highly prized and have become
increasingly sophisticated. Newly developed technology has raised the bar
in terms of diamond cutting and setting, with stunning results, and that has
made fine jewelry watches as prized as high complications by collectors. An
exceptional finish can result in a watch that is highly decorative or simply
exquisitely finished inside and out. Either way, the metiers of watchmaking
have become increasingly important in recent years.
Panthère de
Cartier, 18K
white gold with
pavé diamonds.
C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N E [ 19PRINCESS FLOWER COLLECTION
celebrate with style b y C A R O L B E S L E R
MOTHER’S DAY
Gifts worth remembering
Select a gift that the
mother in your life will
wear, enjoy, and treasure
for years to come.
22 ] C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N EH E A R T S O N F I R E S T O R E S , A U T H O R I Z E D R E TA I L E R S , H E A R T S O N F I R E . C O M
Time for
Fun Fashion
The TAG Heuer
ladies’ Link with a
blue mother-of-pearl
dial adds a playful
pop of color and style,
MOM Mother’s Day is May 13th
perfect for your femme
summer wardrobe.
Sporty & Fun
The TAG Heuer ladies’ Link is named for its
distinctive bracelet links in the shape of an S. Each
link is finished like fine jewelry. Like a comfort-fit
ring, the links are rounded at the top, bottom, and
sides for a smoother fit. Both case and bracelet of
the Link are made of stainless steel, and the dial is
mother-of-pearl. The bezel is set with diamonds. The
movement is quartz, with hour, minute, seconds and
date functions. It is water resistant to 100 meters.
Pure Classics
The Panthère de Cartier is a re-issue
of a classic originally introduced
in 1984 with its iconic square case
and screws on the bezel, Roman
numerals, and railway track index.
The case and bracelet are gold and
the movement is quartz.
Black Tie Beauty
The Patek Philippe Haute Joaillerie Ref. 4899-900G Calatrava
is set with 149 diamonds and 182 pink sapphires in several
shades, for an aggregate weight of 4.35 carats. The background
on the upper dial is natural pink mother-of-pearl. The
movement is the ultra-thin automatic Caliber 240.
24 ] C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N Ecelebrate with style
W
Icon Collection
With its intricate craftsmanship, use of warm gold, floral
motifs, and Italian enameling techniques, Gucci Jewelry’s Icon
collection draws inspiration from the Renaissance era, a period
that has greatly inspired the house’s new creative aesthetic. The
line has now been extended with a new series of delicately crafted
blossom-themed pieces.
Across the entire collection, the delicate leaf and flower designs
are interwoven with the recognizable “GG” motif. Italian master
goldsmiths have carefully realized all the Icon pieces, infusing an
aura of timeless craftsmanship into this charming line.
26 ] C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N Ecelebrate with style
Gifts for
MOM
Mother’s Day is May 13th
Mikimoto strand of Akoya pearls.
Mikimoto pearl stud earrings.
Diamond necklace and
bands from the C.D.Peacock
Signature collection.
32” strand with 8x7 mm
Akoya cultured pearls and
an 18K white gold clasp.
C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N E [ 27Diamond charm
neckalces from
the Roberto Coin
Tiny Treasures
collection.
Time for the
GRAD
Mark this monumental occasion
TAG Heuer Aquaracer with blue dial.
Writing instruments and leather
accessories by Montblanc.
28 ] C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N EWe belong together.
time zone b y C A R O L B E S L E R
CHANEL
CODE COCO
A watch inspired by a classic handbag? Why not?
The Code Coco is a tribute to Chanel’s roots as a couture fashion house, and
specifically to one of the world’s most recognizable handbags: the Chanel 2.55,
with its distinctive clasp and quilted leather. The 2.55 was designed by Coco
Chanel in 1955, and has been in the company’s collection in some form ever since.
Its distinguishing feature is the front clasp, nicknamed “the Mademoiselle Lock,”
and it is this clasp that inspired the primary design feature of the Code Coco watch.
It performs an aesthetic function only, separating the upper and lower squares of
the case; however, it does turn, just like the clasp on a handbag, clicking into place
either horizontally or vertically, where it alternately hides or exposes the dial. The
upper dial is set with a single diamond, while the lower one tells time. The bracelet
is grooved in a quilted pattern to resemble the leather on the 2.55. There are
several versions of the model, set with diamonds on the bezel, dial, and/or bracelet,
in stainless steel or black ceramic and steel.
BEAUTIFUL BOYFRIEND
Chanel’s signature elongated case shape, inspired by the legendary No5 perfume
bottle, is also applied to the Boyfriend watch. The name is a reference to its angular,
more masculine lines, which are reinforced by beveled corners on the case and, this
year, on the edges of a new openworked movement. The Caliber 3 is carved out, with
edges beveled and gold plated to match the case, leaving just enough of the movement
visible to pique interest. It was three years in the making and represents the third in-
house movement produced by Chanel’s watchmaking division in Switzerland. The
Boyfriend Skeleton is made of 18k Beige gold (a proprietary Chanel alloy), available in
two sizes, with or without diamonds on the bezel.
30 ] C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N Etime zone
Super Sports
The Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot
Travel Time, in 18K rose gold with
a dial in brown-to-black gradation.
It contains the automatic
Caliber 324 S C FUS, with an
easily adjustable display of the
Time for
second time zone in one-hour
increments. A second, pierced
hour hand keeps track of home
DAD
time, and there is a day/night
aperture between 9 and 3 o’clock.
Father’s Day is June 17th
Casual Friday
Formal Attire
TAG Heuer Aquaracer with
black rubber strap.
Everyday
Classic
Patek Philippe Ref. 5199J
Small Seconds.
Cellini Moonphase in
18K Everose gold.
O
32 ] C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N Etime zone b y C A R O L B E S L E R
T
he Speedmaster Dark Side of the
Moon Apollo 8 is Omega’s
tribute to the first orbit of the
Moon, during which astronauts wore
Omega watches. The newest model
showcases a skeletonized version of
the movement, revealing its inner
workings for the first time. The
dial has been openworked and
treated with laser ablation
to blacken the bridges and
main plate, giving them a
rough, moon-like surface.
The movement is visible
through a sapphire crystal
on the caseback, but
treated in a darker color
O
OTHER THE
to represent the dark
side of the Moon. The
quote on the back,
“We’ll see you on
the other side,” was
SIDE
spoken by astronaut Jim Lovell as the Apollo was
about to disappear behind the dark side of the Moon,
dropping radio contact with Earth for the next few
minutes. The case is made of black zirconium oxide
ceramic. Hands and indexes are a contrasting white
and yellow, which not only makes the dial easier to
read, but adds a nice, crisp design touch.
C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N E [ 33time zone b y C A R O L B E S L E R
MARK of the
VIPER TAG Heuer earns high stamp of approval
TAG Heuer’s Tête de Vipère Chronograph Tourbillon Chronometer is the first TAG
Heuer watch to receive the Besançon Obervatory Tête de Vipère (Viper’s Head) stamp of
approval. Besançon Observatory was one of the strictest of the two or three observatories
in Europe that assessed and graded Swiss watch movements for accuracy back in the
days when timepieces were used in marine navigation. This type of testing was largely
abandoned in the 1970s when quartz, a different technology, became popular, but the
lab was relaunched in 2006. Since then, only 500 mechanical watches have passed the
observatory’s 16-day accuracy test in five positions at three different temperatures.
“The Viper’s head stamp,” says TAG Heuer, “is more than simply proof of quality
and accuracy. It is confirmation of technical expertise that borders on perfection.”
34 ] C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N ETAG teams
with
BamfordIf you’re an avid watch collector, you may have heard of
a British company called Bamford that customizes luxury
watches by personalizing them, turning already exclusive
watches into one-of-a-kind possessions. These customizations
are usually unauthorized by the watch brands; however, TAG
Heuer officially teamed up with Bamford last year to offer
customers the opportunity to customize their watches. This
year, TAG Heuer invited Bamford to collaborate on a special
edition, a reimagining of its most iconic watch, the Monaco.
The model’s signature 39 mm square case is made of solid
carbon fiber. The black dial is contrasted with luminated aqua
blue counters and markers that glow in the dark. Both dial and
caseback are marked “Monaco Bamford.” It is limited to 500
36 ] C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N EThe TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph GMT is the first Carrera Chronograph in the 55-year history of the model to have a GMT function. The 45 mm steel case has a black and blue ceramic bezel, and it contains the automatic Caliber Heuer 02, with a 75-hour power reserve. It is water resistant to 100 meters.
watch trends b y C A R O L B E S L E R
DESIGNER dials
The wristwatch is the ultimate accessory, with the power to give your wardrobe an instant boost.
It can also help you to express your individual sense of style, navigate the depths of the ocean, or
time your favorite athlete. Here is a glimpse of some of the latest trends in watches.
Ceramic Bezels
Ceramic was introduced to the watch industry in the late 1990s, and has since
become one of watchmaking’s most important materials, taking its place next to
gold and stainless steel. Ceramic’s magic lies in its properties of indestructability.
It is temperature-resistant, hypo-allergenic, and will never rust, rot, or scratch. It is
also bullet-proof — ceramic is used to make vests that can stop bullets from high
caliber rifles — and is used to make knife blades that stay sharper longer than steel.
Ceramic can be infused with any color and is blessed with a silky texture that takes
a high polish. All of this makes it particularly useful for bezels, the outer ring that
joins dial and case, and is the most susceptible to knocks and scratches. Ceramic
keeps the modern timepiece scratch-free and fresh looking.
Rolex Yacht-Master II features their exclusive Ring
Command (bidirectional 90° rotatable interacting
with the movement) in 18K Everose gold with blue
Cerachrom insert in ceramic.
The case and bracelet of the Chanel J12
Collector watch is made of white high-tech
ceramic combined with stainless steel. The pink
mother-of-pearl dial is set with 12 diamond
markers. It contains an automatic movement
and it is water resistant to 200 meters. This
watch is also available in a quartz version.
38 ] C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N EVintage Watches
One of the most interesting trends in luxury watchmaking today is the combination
of classic, traditional styling with state-of-the-art mechanical movements. Thus,
the elite Swiss brands honor their heritage while continuing to build on the classic
concepts of mechanical watchmaking. Here are some of our current models
that reflect the style and heritage of traditional watchmaking, using calibers that
represent the modern standard.
TUDOR Heritage Black Bay
TUDOR’s Heritage Black Bay is a tribute to the original
model, the Submariner, which was first launched in 1954
and was used by divers in the French Navy. This model
retains stylistic elements of the original, including its domed
dial, imposing winding crown (introduced on a 1958 model),
and angular hands — dubbed “snowflakes” by collectors
and seen on models issued from 1969 to the early 1980s.
The dial is matte black with silver-colored luminescent
hands, and the bezel and crown tube are midnight blue.
IWC Big Pilot
The IWC Big Pilot watch from 1940 has significantly influenced the appearance of the brand’s
current classic pilot’s watches, including this model. It contains the IWC-manufactured Caliber
51111 movement, the largest automatic movement ever made by IWC, with a spring-mounted
rotor and Pellaton pawl-winding system, producing a power reserve of over seven days. The
Big Pilot’s watch has a date display and a central seconds, essential in any watch used for
flying. The 46 mm stainless steel case incorporates a soft-iron inner cage that protects the
movement against magnetic fields.
The Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph was inspired by watches from the 1920s
and ’30s made for military use by Minerva, Montblanc’s exclusive boutique movement
manufacturer. Vintage-inspired details include the pump-style chronograph pushers,
cathedral-shaped hands, smoked-champagne dial, box-style sapphire crystal, aged
calfskin strap with stitching, slim horns, and fluted crown.
C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N E [ 39watch trends
The newest model of Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller, known as the Sea-Dweller
4000, celebrated the 50th anniversary of the collection. It is not a limited edition,
but rather a renewed piece that replaces its predecessor in the core collection. The
Sea-Dweller has been given four major updates: a larger case, a cyclops window, a
new movement, and a redesigned bracelet. The most notable of these is the cyclops
window over the date display, an iconic feature of other Rolex models such as the
Datejust and Submariner, but never used before on a Sea-Dweller.
The Cartier Calibre de Cartier
Diver is one of the few in the
world that conforms to the
ISO 6425 standard for dive
watches — giving it a rare
technical authenticity among
dive watches. The rigorous
testing includes everything
from ensuring adequate
visibility from a distance
of just under 10 inches in
total darkness (hence the
extensive luminosity on
the hands and indexes) to
extraordinary magnetic,
shock and water resistance
(300 meters) and a salinity
test to ensure the watch
and strap’s durability in sea
water (including a mixture of
sand). The watch contains
the brand’s first in-house
caliber, the 1904 MC, with a
48-hour power reserve.
Daring Diver’s Watches
A great dive watch not only serves a style function as a sporty accessory, it is essential equipment
for divers who want to survive their plunges into the ocean depths. A good diver’s watch should
be water resistant to at least 100 meters. It should have a unidirectional rotating bezel, so you
can time your dive without the possibility of malfunction. It should have a screwdown crown
and caseback, heavily luminated hands and markers, and a helium valve for decompression
during deep dives. Here are our top choices for dive watches.
IWC honored its commitment to preserving
the Galapagos Islands, a World Heritage
site, with three limited editions in its
Aquatimer collection. A highlight is the
Aquatimer Chronograph Expedition Charles
Darwin Bronze. Bronze is a rarely used case
material, but is particularly suited to diver’s
watches because it is uniquely salt-water
resistant. This watch is water resistant to
300 meters. The special edition is a nod to
Charles Darwin’s exploration of the Galapagos
Islands in 1835. His portrait is etched in
the caseback. It contains automatic caliber
89365 with a 68-hour power reserve and a
new internal/external rotating bezel.
40 ] C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N Ec.d.peacock service
atyour
SERVICE
Gabe Ehimen, Certified Master Watchmaker
Watchmaking is a time-honored tradition in Gabe’s family. “I am lucky enough to have a father who is a master watchmaker, so I got my
start at the age of seven,” Gabe says. He received his watchmaking education in Africa and is also certified with American Watchmakers-
Clockmakers Institute.
Piece by delicate piece, Gabe disassembles a Rolex to complete a Gabe says the new Rolex lapping machine, created to refinish Absolute precision, a skill honed by years of study and practice, and a
full service for a client, a process that take hours to complete. Rolex professional models, bezels, and case backs, is a game modicum of artistry are all integral ingredients of Gabe’s exceptional level
changer in the industry. C.D.Peacock is one of the few stores in of service and expertise.
the USA to have this sophisticated new equipment.
C.D.Peacock is proud to have three talented
designers on staff, one at each store.
Kelly Jacobson, Senior Designer, Oakbrook Center
Kelly got her start with jewelry design over twenty years ago and has been
expanding her skillset ever since. She holds a BFA, an MFA, a Graduate
Gemologist certification from GIA and has spent the last nine years immersed
in learning computer aided design and manufacturing.
Erin Osterberg, designer, Woodfield Mall
Erin first became passionate about jewelry design as a sophomore in high
school, where she also learned casting and production processes. She attended
Columbia College in Chicago to dive deeper into design and production. Erin
has her Applied Jewelry Professional certification from G.I.A. and is presently
a member of the Chicago chapter of the Women’s Jewelry Association.
CD Peacock was an early advocate of new and exciting
design technology. They use state of the art software
Olga Nelson, designer, Old Orchard Center and manufacturing equipment to provide a truly
one-of-a-kind design experience for clients.
Olga’s career grew from studying bench jewelry as a student into diamond
sales and eventually 3-D CAD Jewelry design. She is passionate about
creating custom pieces to help C.D.Peacock clientele celebrate the
most special moments of their lives.
C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N E [ 41time zone b y C A R O L B E S L E R
M ontblanc’s boutique movement maker, Minerva, was founded in
1858 in the small village of Villeret in the Swiss Jura Mountains.
It was one of the original workshops that made Switzerland famous
for its precision timekeeping instruments. Minerva specialized in
chronographs for pocket watches and early wristwatches, and
was in high demand as an official timer for sporting events and
automobile rallies. Minerva timed the 1936 Olympics.
Montblanc acquired the Minerva workshop in 2006,
including its significant archives and its inventory of elite, hand
crafted movements, all of which complemented Montblanc’s
growing assortment of high-precision chronographs. This year,
Montblanc introduces two new models in its TimeWalker
collection that are influenced by early pocket watches made by
Minerva. The TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph contains
a new movement, the automatic caliber MB 25.10, a column-
wheel chronograph with a stop-seconds mechanism for precision
setting. A tribute to Minerva’s vintage rally timers, the design is
auto-inspired, with a black-on-white dial reminiscent of race car
dashboards, semi-skeletonized horns resembling the air inlets on
a car body, a black DLC crown knurled to resemble a vintage car
radiator cap, a rotor designed like a steering wheel and a caseback with
a smoked glass opening like the glass windows over V12 engines. There
is a tachymeter scale on the black ceramic bezel.
MONTBLANC
Montblanc
TimeWalker
Manufacture
Chronograph.
CELEBRATES
the stopwatch Montblanc TimeWalker Rally
Timer Chronograph.
The TimeWalker Rally Timer Chronograph Limited Edition 100 contains
a Minerva-made movement, the manual-wound chronograph Caliber
MB M16.29, which is an evolution of a Minerva movement developed
in 1930. The watch design was inspired by the Minerva Rally Timer
stopwatch produced in the 1960s, with its 30-minute counter at 12
o’clock vertically aligned with a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. The
watch can be used four different ways: as a pocket watch by folding the
strap attachments under the case; as a table clock by using two arms
hidden below the case; as a dashboard clock, clipped to a leather-covered
metal plate that attaches to a dashboard; and as a wristwatch. The knurled
crown at 12 o’clock is a nod to Minerva’s pocket watch chronometers.
42 ] C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N ELe Petit Prince® The Little Prince® © Antoine de Saint Exupéry Estate. Licensed by LPP612.
C r e a t i n g n ew h e i g h t s .
Hugh Jackman treasures imagination with
the new Montblanc Meisterstück Le Petit Prince.
montblanc.com/petit-princetime zone b y C A R O L B E S L E R
HydroConquest Upgrade
This year, top Swiss watch brands like Longines are focusing on upgrading key collections
as a way of adding even more value for customers. The HydroConquest is a great example
of this. Known for its sporty robustness, the HydroConquest is now even tougher, with a
new scratch-resistant ceramic bezel insert. The new bezels are black, gray, or blue, and the
dials have been redesigned to match the color of the inserts. Because the HydroConquest
is a diver’s watch with 300-meter (about 1,000 feet) water resistance, the bezels rotate
in one direction to allow wearers to safely time dives. To improve readability, the
numerals on the bezels are rendered in a contrasting white color, and hands and indexes
have been optimized with Super-LumiNova.
For the Record
Longines is dressing up the Record, its popular dress watch.
In addition to the existing stainless steel model, there are now
18k rose gold and two-tone (18k rose gold and steel) versions
in the collection. Designed for both men and women, the
Record is all about options. Aside from the three case materials,
there are several sizes to choose from, and a variety of straps
and dials, with or without diamonds. The automatic movement
is fitted with a silicon balance spring, a lightweight material that
is corrosion-resistant, anti-magnetic, and unaffected by normal
temperature variations and atmospheric pressure. It is a COSC-
certified chronometer, which means it has passed a series of stringent
tests that measure accuracy, reliability, and durability by the Swiss
Chronometer Testing Institute.
LONGINES key collections
44 ] C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N Eb y H E I D I C R E E D
time zone
THE
CHRONOGRAPH
it’s complicated...
If horology is the art of measuring time, then a chronograph create an almost magical experience.
watch is the canvas. It is painted with the beauty of precious metals, There is a dizzying array of chronograph watches that are
glued together with complicated components, and framed with the designed for a purpose that can range from the everyday to the
function of time-measuring technology. Yet the most prestigious few-in-a-lifetime. Because of this, chronograph features may not
chronograph watches aren’t the ones that make the loudest splash be entirely standard, but generally can be categorized into either
with a bedazzled or lit up flare. The high-end pieces reserve their luxury, casual, or sport, depending on the watch’s funcions.
boldness for the subtleties. Similar to the art world, you have to Chronograph watches exude an element of “hero” status in their
know what you’re seeing to truly appreciate the value of each piece. esteemed role as “time writers.” They regard the rich tradition of
And when you interact with this type of watch, more than you intricate time pieces that feature dials and wheels, but have moved
would any other, you are welcomed into a world of sweeping hands with modern technology to provide present day performance. You
and column wheels. The complex inter-workings of time keeping, may not time an Olympic event with it, but mastering doneness on
and the ability for the keeper to be both adept and distinguished the barbecue will be spot on.
Longines Conquest V.H.P. Chronograph
In an age when atomic clocks provide the most
accurate time possible to anyone with a smart
phone, and mechanical watches satisfy the need
for artisanal craftsmanship, quartz technology
has receded from the spotlight. However,
there are still many who appreciate the reliable
accuracy of a quartz wristwatch, and Longines’
V.H.P. technology caters to them. Longines
first developed its advanced V.H.P. [Very
High Precision] quartz technology in 1984,
at the height of the quartz era, achieving an
accuracy of +/- 10 seconds per year. The new
V.H.P. models are accurate to within +/- 5
seconds per year, a standard that far exceeds
mechanical watches, which can lose that much
in a day. This year, Longines introduces a
V.H.P Chronograph version, with a movement
developed by ETA exclusively for Longines.
The Conquest V.H.P. is water resistant to 50
meters (about 165 feet).
46 ] C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N ETAG Heuer Monaco Gulf
The square-cased Monaco is TAG Heuer’s most recognizable watch and the one most
closely associated with the world of auto racing. Named after the Monaco Grand Prix,
it was worn by Steve McQueen in the 1971 movie Le Mans. Gulf Oil International has
also long been involved in auto racing and was the sponsor of McQueen in the film,
in which he drove a Gulf-Porsche 917K. This year, TAG Heuer and Gulf co-designed
a special edition to commemorate this shared heritage. The watch bears the blue and
orange stripes of Gulf’s racing colors. The Gulf logo, along with a vintage Heuer logo,
appears on the dial. The crown position on the left side of the case, where it is less
intrusive for drivers gripping the steering wheel, is signature to the model. It contains
the Caliber 11 automatic chronograph movement with date function, and it is water
resistant to 100 meters (about 330 feet).
IWC Portuguese Chronograph
The Portuguese Chronograph is a modern and stylish tribute to Portugal’s Golden Age of Discovery. A
traditional line of nautically inspired precision instruments wouldn’t be complete without a chronograph
calibrated with a quarter-second scale for precision timing. The elegant design and moderate 12.3 mm
height of the case have made the Portuguese Chronograph one of the most sought-after models in the
Portuguese collection. This traditionally inspired modern-day piece is self-winding, has a 44-hour power
reserve when fully wound, and features a sapphire glass and anti-reflective coating on both sides for
both form and beauty. Everything is integrated harmoniously on the clearly organized dial: the recessed
totalizers, the embossed Arabic numerals, and the perfectly proportioned feuille hands for hours and
minutes. The warm appeal of 18-carat red gold exudes a distinctive luxury.
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona
Power, speed, performance — the Cosmograph Daytona was introduced in 1963
and was designed to meet the demands of professional race car drivers. With its
highly reliable chronograph and bezel with tachometric scale, it allows drivers to
perfectly measure average speeds up to 400 miles per hour, should they choose. The
18K Everose gold color, combined with a solid 40 mm sapphire scratch resistant
case, make the Daytona a sure functional statement piece.
The waterproof Oyster case is one of the foundations for the reputation of
excellence enjoyed by Rolex watches, thanks to its patented system of screwing
down the bezel, case back, and winding crown against the middle case. The world’s
first waterproof wristwatch case, it was invented by Rolex in 1926.
The bracelet is available in luxurious black leather or bold gold with the folding
Oysterlock safety clasp. The Oysterlock clasp is a sublime blend of robust yet
sophisticated engineering and smooth lines. A dual security system guards against
accidental opening even in the harshest conditions.
C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N E [ 47time zone b y C A R O L B E S L E R
Cartier reboots the iconic Santos,
the watch that started it all
Women were the first to consider the convenience and adornment
value of attaching a watch to the wrist, rather than hiding it in a pocket.
Queen Elizabeth I wore a bracelet watch in 1580, and the Queen of
Naples commissioned one in 1810. Most of these early examples,
however, were one-off pieces worn by female members of royalty
or the aristocracy. Men preferred the more modest pocket watch
right up until the early 1900s, when Cartier invented the
Santos wristwatch. It came to life in 1904, when Brazilian
socialite and aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont asked his
friend, Louis Cartier, to create a hands-free, leather-band
wristwatch that he could see at a glance while flying
his aircraft, instead of having to take his hand off the
controls to reach for a pocket watch. Before long,
Cartier was marketing the watch to the public, and
the first series-produced wristwatch was born.
The Santos has remained in the Cartier line
ever since, becoming a favorite not just for
aviators — or even just for men — its
classic rounded square design with
screw-set bezel works for both
men and women.
SANTOS
RESTORATION
48 ] C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N EThis year, for the first time in more than a decade, the Santos has been refreshed. The key new
feature is the QuickSwitch strap system, which makes sense not just from a functional point of
view, but from an historical one, since the strap represents the essential difference between the
wristwatch and the pocket watch. The QuickSwitch system works via an invisible mechanism
that blends into the structure of the case. To change the strap, the wearer simply presses
a button on the back of the watch just below the case between the lugs. It pops
out easily, and another strap or bracelet is simply clicked into place. Options
include steel, gold, or two-tone bracelets, or leather in a choice of calfskin or
alligator in several colors. Because a certain amount of adjustment is often
needed when switching to a bracelet, Cartier even made the new Santos
bracelet self-fitting. A system called SmartLink makes it possible to
easily remove or add links without using a tool.
Best of all, the movement is also new. Cartier’s in-house
Caliber 1847 MC features anti-magnetic components that make
it fully resistant to the variations in rate that can be caused
by magnetic fields. The watch is assembled, calibrated, and
tested by the Cartier Manufacture workshops for resistance
to variations in position, humidity, temperature, pressure,
exposure to impact, and acceleration, all of which can also
The Cartier Santos, here in two-tone
yellow gold and steel and in 18K pink interfere with the accuracy of the watch. Thus, the new Santos
gold, is an evolution of the world’s
first wristwatch. is calibrated for robust, everyday wear. It should be good to go for
at least another 115 years.
Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos
Dumont helped Louis Cartier
invent the world’s first wristwatch. C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N E [ 49time zone b y C A R O L B E S L E R
IWC
IWC celebrates 150 years of innovation
IWC was founded in 1868 by an enterprising American, Hand-Wound Eight Days are the most classic of the new editions. The perpetual
New York watchmaker Florentine Ariosto Jones. He was calendar has a rare double moon phase display that is so accurate, it will deviate
inspired by a visit to Schaffhausen, Switzerland, and its from the actual cycle of the earth’s moon by only one day over the next 577.5 years.
location on the banks of the Rhine River, which Jones The display depicts both the northern and southern hemispheres, which is unusual
saw as an ideal source of hydropower for an industrialized in a moon phase indicator. The complication was invented by watchmakers in the
watch factory. Working with Swiss watchmakers and northern hemisphere, so displaying the lunar cycle from that perspective became
engineers, Jones created International Watch Company, the convention. The movement is the IWC automatic Caliber 52615, with two
quickly gaining a reputation for producing top-quality mainspring barrels for a 7-day power reserve. The 44.2 mm case is 18K red gold. It
pocket watches, most of which were exported to the U.S. is limited to 250 pieces.
IWC remains one of Switzerland’s most elite brands. It is The Anniversary Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days is the purist model in the
owned by the Richemont Group, which counts Cartier, collection, aimed at collectors with a preference for minimalist, time-only watches
Piaget, and Vacheron Constantin among its other brands. with hand-wound movements. The Caliber 59215 is from IWC’s lineup of the most
To celebrate its 150th anniversary, IWC is introducing technically advanced in-house movements, with an 8-day power reserve. It is available
27 limited edition watches, five of them in its elite in stainless steel (1,000 pieces) and 18K red gold (250 pieces) in a 43 mm wide case.
Portugieser line, two of which we’ll take a closer look at All 27 of IWC’s anniversary editions have a common thread: they have lacquered
here. The Portugieser collection was born in 1936, when dials and black alligator straps. IWC equates the type of paint used for the lacquered
IWC received an order from two Portuguese importers dials to a high-quality piano lacquer. The dials are coated in up to 12 layers of
for a series of large wristwatches with extremely precise lacquer and fired and cooled each time, after which they are given a high polish and
pocket watch calibers. The collection has since come then coated again with a high-gloss varnish.
to represent classic watchmaking at the highest level, A 150th anniversary is a rare thing for a watch company, and these special
with large cases reminiscent of pocket watches. The editions are important collector’s pieces, worth a look in person. Please visit us in-
Anniversary Portugieser Perpetual Calendar and the store at C.D.Peacock Jewelers, and we’d be happy to show them to you!
50 ] C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N ED I A M A J E W E L RY. C O M
F O R T H E LOV E O F S WA ROVS K I C R E AT E D D I A M O N D S
E XC LU S I V E LY I N C H I C AG O ATdesigner spotlight
Roberto Coin’s creative universe wouldn’t be complete without a collection
dedicated to the quintessential symbol of giving and beauty — the flower. The
flower jewel is part of the great creative bouquet — the Princess collection.
the roberto coin
PRINCESS
FLOWER
52 ] C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N EThe twisted wire technique, typical of the Princess collection, is used to make these pieces. Some surfaces are smooth and
some are rough, as if to evoke the various characteristics of the fragrances. The iconic shape of the petals of the Princess Flower,
the same in every creation, are narrated through an infinite variety of hues.
The necklaces and bracelets have a sequence of flowers of varying sizes, suggestive of a real flower garden, while the rings
and pendants have a single flower, the absolute star of style and sentiment — a marvel of majesty and grace that sprouts from
precious seeds — diamonds.
C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N E [ 53designer spotlight
COCO CRUSH
C.D.PEACOCK HAS BEEN ONE OF May 2018
THE FEW STORES IN THE COUNTRY SELECTED TO OFFER THE Available at C.D.Peacock
CHANEL FINE JEWELRY COLLECTION. Woodfield Mall
and select Chanel boutiques.
54 ] C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N EFINE JEWELRY
COCO CRUSH
CHANEL FINE JEWELRY PRESENTS COCO CRUSH, A NEW COLLECTION
ENTIRELY DEDICATED TO THE "MATELASSE" OR QUILTED PATTERN.
FINELY ENGRAVED INTO THE GOLD, THIS STYLIZED QUILTED PATTERN
GIVES BIRTH TO A COLLECTION OF RINGS AND A CUFF BRACELET WITH
GENEROUS AND FEMININE LINES.
IN ITS SIMPLICITY, THE RADICAL AND RESOLUTELY CONTEMPORARY
SPIRIT OF THE COCO CRUSH COLLECTION EXPRESSES ALL THE VALUES
OF MODERNITY AND REFINEMENT THAT HAVE DISTINGUISHED CHANEL
FINE JEWELRY SINCE ITS ORIGINS.
#CHANEL #CocoCrush
C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N E [ 55gorgeous gemstones
B LUE
EAUTIES
Own a moment in time...a piece of history
Tanzanite was discovered in 1969 in the foothills of Mount Kilimanjaro in the eastern African nation of Tanzania.
This Manyara Region of Tanzania is known to produce a wide variety of colored gemstones, but tanzanite is truly
a unique stone found nowhere else on earth and is one of the rarest gemstones available today. Within one
generation, the mines are expected to be completely exhausted.
At C.D.Peacock, we hand-select our tanzanite gemstones from Gem Bleu, a company
directly involved with the mines and in the colored gemstone industry for more than 40 years.
Currently, most tanzanite is mined at 500-600 meters below the surface, but the mines
from which C.D.Peacock’s tanzanite jewelry collection comes will reach depths beyond
1,200 meters. That’s equivalent to the height of three Empire State buildings straight
down! It is at these depths that Gem Bleu is able to access some of the richest and
most vibrant colors available, which makes tanzanite the deepest mined colored
gemstone in history.
Gem Bleu is a truly mine-to-market, vertically integrated colored stone
expert. With offices near the mine in the city of Arusha, they are able to work
with the local government to ensure we have access to responsibly sourced, top
quality tanzanite gems.
Only the top three percent reach the high standards we require for our tanzanite
collection. All those rough stones are brought directly from the mine to cutting
facilities, where each individual shape is determined according to which
facet design will best maximize the tanzanite’s
majestic color and depth.
Once the gems are cut and polished,
a talented team of brilliant jewelry
designers create extraordinary
designs. Direct sourcing from Gem
Bleu enables us to offer you the highest
quality tanzanite, in exclusive designs, at an
exceptional value!
56 ] C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N EWE’VE WAITED MILLIONS
OF YEARS FOR THESE
RARE GEMSTONES TO BE
READY FOR THE WORLD,
AND THEY WILL BE GONE
WITHIN A GENERATION.
C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N E [ 57chicago scene b y M I L E N A R A L E V A
On the cover
Dolce La
Vita “If something is worth
doing, it’s worth doing
with passion.”
58 E WALTON ST,
CHICAGO, IL 60611
F
Fast fashion has consumed most of the marketplace, and the enthusiast himself, Rino can regale you for hours on the engineering
modern man has forgotten what it means to dress with care and take and detailing of both vintage and new Porsches.
pride in his appearance. For some, that disregard is inconceivable. Unsurprisingly, Rino’s love of fine craftsmanship spills into his
One such rebel, Chicago menswear designer Rino Burdi, has been affinity for fine watches. He often jokes, “What do we poor men
setting the standard for elegance and sartorial splendor for the last have? Our only accessory really is a nice watch.” Nice, of course,
five decades. is a relative term, and in Rino’s world, that means a true work of
The son and grandson of Italian master tailors, Rino grew up art. It all began long ago on a buying trip to Italy. Fine watches are
in the fashion business with a fostered appreciation for old-world popular and coveted there, and everyone is particular about their
craftsmanship and the special value of beautiful hand-made things. accessories. Rino fell in love with this world, and it lead him to buy
When he is not traveling the world, Rino can be found in his store his very first timepiece, a Breitling Dual time. To this day, he still has
in Chicago’s Gold Coast working on the next collection or a special an appreciation for the dual time functionality because he is always
order for a client. Rino doesn’t believe in shortcuts. He does things wondering what time is it in Italy. Things have changed since that
the way they should be done. When it comes to Burdi’s designs, first purchase. He has built a relationship with C.D.Peacock, and he
that means specialty fabrics from Italy and England in extremely now wears a 5524 Pilot travel time.
fine fibers with soft luxurious hand and the best craftsmanship from Recently, he was invited on a special trip to New York to unveil
Milano. The artistry behind every piece of clothing that is produced the new Patek
at Burdi is unparalleled. Each detail of a jacket is thoughtfully collection. This was,
designed and completely handmade. of course, a rare
The man himself is everyone’s favorite friend — easy going and honor, and he was
fun. If you are ever fortunate enough to call on Rino, expect to be introduced to Patek
welcomed as a long lost relative. He will offer you espresso and Philippe President,
cake, and if the occasion calls for it, champagne and spirits. With Thierry Stern.
this renaissance man full of character, you may find yourself lost in In the words of
conversation for hours. Steve McQueen
Rino’s passion can be seen in every aspect of his life. “If something “Everyone deserves
is worth doing, it’s worth doing with passion.” His favorite topics are not just to survive,
food, cars, watches, and all things beautiful. but to live.” In
A few years back, Rino was approached by Porsche to serve as a Rino’s eyes, it is
brand ambassador for Chicago. The excitement was infectious, and worth going the
the partnership quickly turned into races down at the Autobahn extra mile to live
Country Club and launch events for the new models. An avid la dolce vita.
Rino with Thierry Stern, President of Patek Philippe.
58 ] C . D . P E A C O C K M A G A Z I N EYou can also read
