Product - AAK Personal Care

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Product - AAK Personal Care
product
catalogue
Product - AAK Personal Care
redefine natural
It’s what we do. Push the boundaries of possibilities                Contents
through technologically advanced, sustainably sourced                About us                        4
natural emollients.                                                  Innovations with shea           6
                                                                     Canola innovations              8
It’s what we challenge you to do. Use our value-adding               Bioactive emollients           10
solutions to develop innovative and superior quality formulations.   Emollient esters               12
                                                                     Texturizing oleogels           13
It’s what we can do together. Change perceptions of                  Versatile liquids              15
natural ingredients and their use by continuously delivering         Performance oils               16
performance without compromise.                                      Beautiful butters              18
                                                                     Structuring agents             20
We are AAK - The Co-Development Company
                                                                     Emulsifiers and surfactants    21
                                                                     Approvals and Certifications   22
                                                                     AAK ACADEMY         ™
                                                                                                    24
Product - AAK Personal Care
join the movement
“Natural”. “Sustainable”.                  Our commitment to the planet         Support and knowledge sharing.
“Innovative”. Yesterday’s buzzwords        shows. All of our products           Our team is always on hand for
are today’s new norm in the beauty         originate from natural, renewable    customized training, technical
industry. And as a formulator or           sources and we are pledged to        assistance and claims substantiation.
manufacturer, you know that you            minimizing our carbon footprint,     But we don’t stop there. We can also
need to stay one step ahead. So, if        lowering waste and emissions and     help with all aspects of the creative
you’re looking to meet the increasing      reducing consumption of energy       process, including inspiration,
demand for more natural, eco-              and water. In acknowledgement        ideation and implementation.
conscious beauty products that             of our achievements in these areas   We’re here for you.
also deliver superior functionality        we have been granted the EcoVadis
and enhanced aesthetics, then              Gold Recognition Level.
we can help.

Pioneering innovations in lipid
technology. At AAK Personal Care
we have over 30 years’ experience
in developing and manufacturing
high-performance, value-adding
botanically-derived emollients for
the global beauty and personal care
industry. Our specialist lipid expertise
and technological knowledge are
unparalleled, with our name a byword
                                                                                                                        discover the difference
for excellence.

Changing perceptions of natural.                                                                                        Decades of experience within               The best of nature. Sourced from         The science of shea. No one
The demand for cosmetics that offer                                                                                     lipid technology have enabled us to        shea, canola, illipe, cocoa, mango       knows shea like we do. Our highly
additional environmental and social                                                                                     develop advanced, high-performance         and more, each of our ingredients        specialized AAK technology
benefits is on the rise. But today’s                                                                                    botanically-derived emollients with        is carefully selected, processed, and    optimizes the physical and sensory
beauty consumers are not prepared                                                                                       excellent stability and long shelf life.   in some cases combined, to obtain        characteristics of shea to allow
to compromise on product perform-                                                                                       This expertise is evidenced by our         the exact chemical profile needed        increased functional use across the
ance in the process. Our portfolio                                                                                      comprehensive list of bioactives,          to enhance the efficacy, functionality   full range of cosmetic applications.
of sustainably sourced innovations                                                                                      esters, oleogels, oils and butters, all    and sensory appeal of your final         From solid and semi-solid forms
pushes the boundaries of possi-                                                                                         offering unique features, advantages       formulations.                            offering high temperature stability,
bilities. Enabling the creation of safe,                                                                                and benefits to help you overcome                                                   low odor and improved color, to
stable, sophisticated formulations                                                                                      specific formulation challenges,                                                    energy-saving liquid versions that
that offer a new take on the meaning                                                                                    meet new trends and answer ever-                                                    eliminate crystallization and enable
of natural.                                                                                                             changing consumer needs.                                                            clear, sprayable formulations.

4                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  5
Product - AAK Personal Care
shea innovations                                                                                                                                                              Making a positive difference.
                                                                                                                                                                              Our shea-based innovations open
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      transporting kernels from remote
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      areas to big towns, and directly
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Mass balance and segregated
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              supply models for shea.
                                                                                                                                                                              new opportunities not only for you      with the hundreds of thousands of       In our mass balance model,
                                                                                                                                                                              as a cosmetic formulator, but also      women shea collectors engaged in        shea kernels from Kolo Nafaso
                                                                                                                                                                              for the estimated 16 million women      our award-winning AAK Kolo Nafaso       and from traditional shea
                                                           Lipex SheaTris          ™                                                                                          in West Africa who rely on shea for     program set-up in Burkina Faso,         traders are mixed during the
                                                    Shea butter triterpene ester concentrate                                                                                  an income. Increasing demand from       Ghana and Ivory Coast.                  manufacturing process. While
                                                                                                                       Lipex SheaLight               ™
                                                                                                                                                                              cosmetic manufacturers is helping to                                            we cannot guarantee your chosen
                                                                                                                     Eco-designed liquid shea ester
                                                                                                                                                                              build a bigger, better shea industry    Setting new industry                    shea-based emollient contains
                                                                                                                                                                              and halt rural-urban migration in the   benchmarks. First launched in 2009,     kernels from our Kolo Nafaso
                        Lipex L’sens        ™

             Highly polar, semi-solid shea-based oleogel                                                                                                                      region. Generating more earnings to     our AAK Kolo Nafaso direct sourcing     program, we can guarantee that
                                                                                                                                                                              empower the shea-collecting women,      program has grown exponentially and     AAK as a company purchase
                                                                                                                                                                              improving local livelihoods and         is unique both in terms of size and     enough shea kernels from the
                                                                                                                                                                              securing supplies for the future.       scope. It encompasses many aspects      program to produce that product
                                                                          B I OAC T I V E
                                                                                                       Lipex SheaLiquid TR          ™                                                                                 of sustainability from building long-   even if they end up being used
                                                                             emollient
                                                                                                        Fully traceable liquid shea butter                                    Traditional and direct shea supply      term, fair and transparent business     elsewhere in our production.
                                                                                                                                                                              chains. In West Africa we have          relationships with the women shea       In our segregated model,
                                                                                                                                                Lipex SheaClear           ™

                                                                                                                                                         Clear shea oil       established a solid and sustainable     collectors, to creating jobs and        shea kernels from Kolo Nafaso
                                                                                                                                                                              sourcing system, built up over many     developing projects to mitigate         are kept separate at every stage
                                                                                                                                                                              decades, and today operate two          climate change in the region.           of the supply chain. When you
                                                                                                                                                                              parallel supply chains. We work in                                              choose a product marked TR,
Lipex SheaSoft TR        ™

                                                                                                                                                                              close co-operation with both shea                                               we guarantee that is produced
Fully traceable, creamy textured
                                                                    SOLID                       LIQUID
      semi-solid shea butter                                       emollients                  emollients                                                                     traders, the middlemen who play                                                 using only kernels full traceable
                                                                                                                                                                              an important logistical function in                                             to the Kolo Nafaso program.

                    Lipex Shea         ™

            High stability semi-solid shea butter                                                                       Lipex 205        ™                                       Kolo Nafaso
                                                                                                                                                                                 partnering
                                                                                                                 High stability liquid shea butter

                                                               Lipex 102      ™

                                                           Refined solid shea butter

                                                                                                                                                                                 together
                                                                                               SOLID CRUDE
                                                                                                                                                                                 to do more
                                                                                               SHE A BUT TER

                                                                                                                                                                                      Winner
                                                                                                                                                                                      Sustainability
                                                                      SHEA                                                                                                            Pioneer
                                                                   KERNELS

6                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 7
Product - AAK Personal Care
Triglycerides
canola innovations                                                                                                 Moisturizing
                                                                                                                   Fatty acids
                                                                                                                   Replenishing
                                                                                                                   Phytosterols
                                                               Lipex PreAct        ™

                                                                (INCI: Canola Oil)
                                                            Bioactive emollient rich in
                                                           phytosterols and tocopherols

                   Lipex Cellect       ™

           (INCI: Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides)
                    Bioactive concentrate                                                                          Soothing
                                                                                                                   Tocopherols
                    of phytosterol esters

                                                              Lipex Bassol C           ™

                                                                 (INCI: Canola Oil)

                                                                                                                   Calming
                                                          Clear and odorless high stability
                                                                   base emollient

       High Oleic Brassica Oil             ™

       (INCI: Brassica Campestris Seed Oil)
               Oxidation stable oil with

                                                                                                                   Antioxidant
               high oleic acid content

                                                        Lipex 120        ™

                                                       (INCI: Canola Oil)
                                                     Antioxidant stabilized oil

                                                                                                                  A rich and eco-conscious source           other oil crops. Parameters monitored     INCI names listed are AAK
                                                                                                                  of functional lipids. Canola oil is       include carbon footprint, acidification   recommendations. These show
                                                                                                                  high in skin-replenishing fatty acids,    and eutrophication. Please contact        our preference but are typically
                 Akofine R™ *
        (INCI: Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil)                                                                        skin-soothing phytosterols and            us for more information.                  interchangeable depending on market
                  Structurizing and                                                                               antioxidant tocopherols. Our                                                        and customer preferences. Olus Oil
                stabilizing triglyceride
                                                                                                                  canola-based ingredients are              What’s in a name? Canola oil is           and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil are
                                                                                                                  expertly processed to be safe,            derived from a variety of rapeseed        examples of generic INCI names
                                                                                                                  highly stable, gentle on the skin and     that is low in erucic acid, as opposed    that could be used instead of Canola
                                                                                                                  tough on environmental aggressors.        to colza oil. Originally cultivated in    Oil. Brassica Campestris Seed Oil is
                                                                                                                  Sustainably sourced from non-GMO          Canada in the early 1970s, canola oil     another option. Details of alternatives
                                                                                                                  Swedish crops and vegan friendly,         contains 1% erucic acid.   supply chains in comparison with          Brassica Rapa.

8                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          9
Product - AAK Personal Care
our portfolio                                                                                                                               bioactive studies
When it comes to protecting skin              Harnessing the bioactivity of                         Well-documented functionality           Lipex SheaTris™ has been shown to:
against environmental stress and              minor lipids. Using our patented                      and skin tolerance. Lipex bio-          • Strengthen the skin barrier function to improve moisture retention and protect against environmental aggressors
premature aging, our naturally-               technology, we have been able to                      actives are well-characterized          • Protect skin against collagen degrading enzymes
derived bioactives are proven to pack         utilize the inherent bioactivity of the               lipophilic ingredients for safe use     • Reduce the activity of pro-inflammatory cytokines linked to premature aging
a powerful punch. With documented             minor lipids found in sustainable                     within beauty and personal care
anti-inflammatory and collagen                sources of canola oil and shea butter.                applications. Good skin tolerance                                            Lipex SheaTris™ protects skin collagen structures and fights premature skin aging
protecting properties, our canola and         These range from anti-oxidative                       with documented non-irritancy
shea-based bioactive emollients are           natural tocopherols (Vitamin E)                       makes them well suited for premium                                        Reduction of collagenase activity                                                                  MMP-3 gene expression
effective even in low concentrations.         to anti-inflammatory phytosterols                     facial skin care, dermo-cosmetics                                   100                                                                                                 70
They are ideally suited for anti-             and skin protecting and revitalizing                  and applications for sensitive skin.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            60
aging and anti-pollution cosmetic             triterpene esters.                                                                                                        80
formulations, as well as those                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              50
targeting sensitive skin.                                                                                                                                               60                                                                                                  40

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Average decrease (%)
                                                                                                                                                 Reduced activity (%)
                                                                                                                                                                        40                                                                                                  30

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            20
                                                                                                                                                                        20
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            10

                                                                                                                                                                         0                                                                                                   0

                                                                                                                                                                                          Placebo cream                                                                                      Lipex SheaTris™ at 0.1%
                                                                                                                                                                                          Cream with 0.5% Lipex SheaTris         ™
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Lipex SheaTris™ at 0.05%

                                                                                                                                            Lipex PreAct™ has been shown to:
                                                                                                                                            • Protect both protein and cell membranes against UV radiation and reduce the formation of inflammatory

bioactive emollients
                                                                                                                                              mediators, making it particularly suitable for after-sun and environmental protection formulations
                                                                                                                                            • Protect and strengthen the skin barrier after surfactant-induced damage, making it an excellent choice
                                                                                                                                              for skin care applications targeted at sensitive and delicate skin

                                                                                                    TYPICAL USE CONCENTRATIONS (%)
                                                                                                                                                                                          Lipex PreAct™ prepares and protects skin against UV radiation (PRE)
                                                                                            skin       sun      hair      lip     color
Product           INCI (EU)               Description                                       care       care     care     care   cosmetics                                                   and actively restores a compromised skin barrier function (ACT)

Lipex Cellect™    Phytosteryl Canola      Highly stable canola-based concentrate            0.5–2                                                                             Protects against photo-oxidation
                  Glycerides              of phytosterol esters (45%). Shown in
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Barrier protecting properties of Lipex PreAct™
                                          in-vitro studies to have anti-inflammatory                                                                                     70                                                                                                  TEWL (g m-2 h-1)
                                          and skin strengthening benefits. Suitable for                                                                                                                                                                                      16
                                                                                                                                                                         60
                                          skin care formulations targeted at sensitive
                                          or mature skin.                                                                                                                                                                                                                    14
                                                                                                                                                                         50
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             12
Lipex PreAct™     Canola Oil              Bioactive emollient derived from renewable        1–5        1–3              2–10                                             40                                                                                                  10
                                          canola oil. Naturally rich in antioxidant
                                          tocopherols and anti-inflammatory                                                                                              30                                                                                                      8
                                          phytosterols with documented photoprotection                                                                                                                                                                                           6
                                          and skin strengthening benefits. Suitable for a                                                                                20

                                                                                                                                                 DNPH (%)*
                                          wide range of cosmetic applications.                                                                                                                                                                                                   4
                                                                                                                                                                         10                                                                                                      2
Lipex SheaTris™   Butyrospermum           Shea butter triterpene ester concentrate          0.5–2
                                                                                                                                                                          0                                                                                                      0
                  Parkii Butter Extract   shown to protect against environmental                                                                                                                                                                                                     Water      Lipex PreAct     Sunflower oil   Petrolatum
                                          stress and premature skin aging. Ideally
                                          suited for skin care and dermo-cosmetics.
                                                                                                                                                                                  Non-irradiated        UV-irradiated

                                                                                                                                                                                                   *oxidized protein compared to initial situation
10                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        11
Product - AAK Personal Care
Our naturally-derived esters are perfect for creating more eco-friendly products                                                                                                            Oleogels are natural oils that are thickened with particles or polymers, typically
across the entire spectrum of applications from color cosmetics to skin, sun, lip and                                                                                                       less than 10% solids at room temperatures. Though made of a mostly liquid fraction,
hair care. Combining light, dry sensorial properties with an excellent sustainability                                                                                                       they are semi-solid in character and are very useful for providing good film-forming
profile, they increase spreadability and reduce the heaviness of final formulations,                                                                                                        and barrier protection properties together with medium spreadability on the skin.
enabling you to develop highly functional products with enhanced aesthetics.

emollient esters                                                                                                                                                                            texturizing oleogels
                                                                                                                           TYPICAL USE CONCENTRATIONS (%)                                                                                                                                              TYPICAL USE CONCENTRATIONS (%)
                                                                                                                  skin           sun           hair           lip          color                                                                                                               skin       sun      hair        lip         color
Product            INCI (EU)                       Description                                                    care           care          care          care        cosmetics           Product                INCI (EU)                Description                                       care       care     care       care       cosmetics

Lipex SheaLight™   Shea Butter Ethyl               Unique, eco-designed liquid shea ester for                   1–20*           5–20*         1–2***                                        Akogel™                 Hydrogenated             Moisturizing and highly oxidative stable          2–5        2–5                 2–5             2–5
                   Esters†                         a light, silky soft feel in skin, sun and hair               5–70**         20–80**        3–5****                                                               Vegetable Oil            oleogel offering similar properties to petrola-
                                                   care products. Suitable for cold processing.                                              1–50*****                                                                                       tum. Suitable for all cosmetic applications.

Lipex Shea W™      Shea Butter Cetyl               Solid shea butter wax ester. Dry and velvety                   2–5                           2–5                           2–5           Akosoft 36™             Hydrogenated             Eco-friendly, moisturizing oleogel for skin       1–20                1–4        1–10
                   Esters                          skin feel. Optimized for color cosmetics and                                                                                                                     Coco-glycerides          and hair care, including fragrance-free
                                                   anhydrous skin care formulations.                                                                                                                                                         formulations. Suitable as an alternative
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             to light petrolatum gels.
Lipex Shea WM™     Shea Butter Oleyl               Liquid shea butter wax ester. Low spreading,                  1–15                                         1–3            1–15
                   Esters                          it improves the sensory profile of anhydrous                                                                                             Lipex L’sens™           Soybean Glycerides       Highly polar, semi-solid, shea-based oleogel      1–3**              0.5–5       1–10
                                                   and emulsion formulations, delivering lower                                                                                                                      (and) Butyrospermum      for improving moisturizing, conditioning and      1–6**
                                                   occlusivity and reduced tackiness. Suitable                                                                                                                      Parkii Butter            light-reflecting benefits in skin, hair and lip
                                                   for general skin care and color cosmetics.                                                                                                                       Unsaponifiables          care formulations.
                                                                                                        *emulsions **anhydrous products ***shampoos ****conditioners *****hair oils                                                                                                                                   *lotions and creams **body butters
                               †   Alt INCI China: Ethyl oleate (and) Ethyl stearate (and) Ethyl linoleate (and) Ethyl palmitate (and) Butyrospermum Parkii (shea butter) unsaponifiables

                                                                           Derived from renewable sources using energy-
                                                                           saving catalysts and processes, Lipex SheaLight™
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Lipex L’sens                                       ™

                                                                           is an environmentally-friendly, multifunctional shea
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       improves
                                                                                                                                                                                                              TEWL (%)*
                                                                           butter ester offering excellent spreadability and                                                                           20

                                                                           a very light, silky soft skin feel.                                                                                         15
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       skin barrier properties
                                                                           Recognized with a Sustainable Beauty Award for                                                                              10                                                              and significantly
                                                                           Best Ingredient when launched in 2014, it has become
                                                                           a firm favorite among formulators developing more
                                                                           eco-conscious products for skin, sun and hair care.
                                                                                                                                                                                                          5
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       reduces
                                                                                                                                                                                                          0
                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Placebo            6%          Benchmark
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       transepidermal water loss

     award-winning eco-design
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Lipex L’sens™     (CCTG)

                                                                                                                                                                                                              * TEWL reduction versus untreated skin
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       In vivo moisturization study shows that the optimum
                                                                                                                                                                                                              4 hours after application.                               concentration of Lipex L’sens is around 6%.

12                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  13
Product - AAK Personal Care
Our shea-based liquid emollients offer all the moisturizing benefits of traditional
shea butter with improved skin feel and greater versatility. In addition, they have
been shown to save both time and energy in the formulation process, making
them ideal for creating more eco-friendly products.

versatile liquids
                                                                                                TYPICAL USE CONCENTRATIONS (%)
                                                                                         skin      sun      hair      lip     color
Product          INCI (EU)            Description                                        care      care     care     care   cosmetics   Breakdown of energy consumption
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Hot
                                                                                                                                        (kW/kg) in production stages
Lipex 205™       Butyrospermum        Versatile, low-spreading, liquid shea butter       1–5               0.5–4    2–10                – hot versus low temperature processing                                        Low temp                                               -53% energy consumption
                 Parkii Butter (or)   rich in unsaponifiables and linoleic acid,
                 Butyrospermum        delivering high stability and moisturizing
                 Parkii Oil           benefits to all cosmetic applications.                                                                                                                                                                    0           0.2             0.4          0.6         0.8        1
                                      Suitable for low energy processing.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       mixing           heat          cool         tempering
Lipex            Butyrospermum        Fully traceable, low-spreading, liquid shea        1–5               0.5–4    2–10
SheaLiquid™ TR   Parkii Butter (or)   butter rich in unsaponifiables and linoleic
                 Butyrospermum        acid, delivering high stability and moisturizing
                 Parkii Oil           benefits to all cosmetic applications.
                                      Suitable for low energy processing.
                                                                                                                                        Breakdown of processing times                                                                      80

                                                                                                                                        (minutes) for lotions made in laboratory                                                           70

                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Temperature (C)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           60
                                                                                                                                        conditions – hot versus low temperature
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           50
                                                                                                                                        processing
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           40

     Lipex SheaLiquid TR
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           30
                                                                            ™                                                                                                                                                              20           Emulsification &
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        hydrating polymer
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Cooling of emulsion
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           10   Heating of oil
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                & water phase
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            0
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                0           50              100          150         200       250
     Lipex SheaLiquid TR is from a segregated                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 time (min)

     supply chain, fully traceable to the AAK                                                                                                                                                                                                            hot process                    low temperature process

     Kolo Nafaso direct sourcing program that                                                                                                                                                                                                   Low temperature = 30% reduction in total processing time
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                and 40% reduction in the final cooling step
     provides hundreds of thousands of women
     shea collectors in West Africa with access to
     pre-financing, training and logistical support.
                                                                                                                                        A sensory evaluation triangle test confirmed there were no significant differences
                                                                                                                                        between the two final formulations. And when put to a similar challenge
     Empowering women.
                                                                                                                                        2 out of 3 of you couldn’t identify the odd one out! *
     Improving livelihoods.
     Securing the future.                                                                                                               * Based on results of an ongoing sensory evaluation challenge taken by over 140 cosmetic industry professionals during April and May 2019

14                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   15
Our range of performance oils are sustainably sourced from natural botanicals
and make excellent base emollients for a wide range of cosmetic applications.
They offer enhanced oxidative stability and are suitable for low energy
and/or or cold processing.

performance oils
                                                                                                     TYPICAL USE CONCENTRATIONS (%)                                                                                                               TYPICAL USE CONCENTRATIONS (%)
                                                                                             skin       sun      hair      lip     color                                                                                                 skin          sun            hair            lip     color
Product             INCI (EU)             Description                                        care       care     care     care   cosmetics   Product            INCI (EU)          Description                                           care          care           care           care   cosmetics

Akosun™             Helianthus            Refined sunflower seed oil with a high             1–15                1–4     1–10                Lipex Omega 3/6™   Olus Oil (and)     Stable delivery system with an optimized              1–15
                    Annuus Hybrid Oil     oleic (omega-9) content. Superior oxidative                                                                           Camelina Sativa    combination of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty
                                          stability and shelf-life compared to traditional                                                                      Seed Oil           acids (1:3) for restoring skin health.
                                          sunflower seed oils (OSI 20h, 110 °C).                                                                                                   Suitable for cold processing.
                                          Suitable for use as a base emollient across
                                          a wide range of cosmetic applications.                                                             Lipex SheaClear™   Butyrospermum      Clear, low-spreading, liquid shea with                2–80                        1–50
                                                                                                                                                                Parkii Oil         moisturizing and conditioning benefits
High Oleic          Brassica              Oxidation stable canola oil (OSI 16h, 110 °C).     5–15                                                                                  for creating translucent and transparent
Brassica Oil™       Campestris Seed Oil   Rich in omega-9 and omega-6 fatty acids.                                                                                                 cosmetic oil formulations. Suitable for cold
                                          Suitable for use as a base emollient across                                                                                              processing.
                                          a wide range of cosmetic applications.

Lipex 109 S™        Gossypium             Cottonseed oil stabilized with an optimized        2–3
                    Herbaceum Seed Oil    natural antioxidant system. Rich in omega-6
                                          fatty acids. Suitable for general skin care.

Lipex 120™          Canola Oil            Canola oil stabilized with an optimized            2–3
                                          natural antioxidant system. Rich in omega-3,
                                          omega-6 and omega-9 fatty acids.
                                          Suitable for general skin care.
                                                                                                                                                                                  Lipex Bassol C                                                    ™

Lipex 203™          Mangifera             Low-spreading oil derived from                     2–3
                    Indica Seed Oil       mango fruit kernels. Delivers a soft, rich
                                          skin feel without the crystallization typically                                                      Delivers high oxidative and                                                High stability – long shelf life
                                          associated with exotic butters. Suitable for
                                          general skin care, including both anhydrous                                                          photo-oxidative stability and is                                          OSI @ 110°C (hours)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                         50
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Shelf-life (months)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     35
                                          and liquid formulations.
                                                                                                                                               an excellent sustainable alternative to                                   45
                                                                                                                                                                                                                         40
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     30
Lipex Bassol C      Canola Oil            Clear, high stability oil derived from renew-      1–100               1–4     1–10
                                                                                                                                               low spreading synthetic emollients.
                ™
                                                                                                                                                                                                                         35                                                          25
                                          able canola. Excellent alternative to low
                                                                                                                                                                                                                         30
                                          spreading synthetic emollients. Suitable for                                                                                                                                                                                               20
                                          cold processing and use across a wide range                                                          In an OSI test comparing three canola-                                    25
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     15
                                          of cosmetic applications.                                                                                                                                                      20
                                                                                                                                               based oils with different concentrations                                   15                                                         10
                                                                                                                                               of polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs),                                    10
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     5
                                                                                                                                               Lipex Bassol C had the highest oxidative sta-                              5

                                                                                                                                               bility index (OSI) and the longest shelf life.                             0
                                                                                                                                                                                                                               Ref. canola oil   HO Brassica oil   Lipex Bassol C™
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     0

16                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 17
Sustainably sourced from renewable botanicals, our range of semi-solid and solid butters
have been carefully optimized to offer varying melting profiles, crystallization properties                                                                beautiful butters: solids
and skin care benefits. With this lineup we make choosing the best, most natural fit for
your formulation needs as easy as possible.                                                                                                                                                                                                                     TYPICAL USE CONCENTRATIONS (%)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      skin           sun           hair          lip          color
                                                                                                                                                           Product             INCI (EU)           Description                                        care           care          care         care        cosmetics

                                                                                                                                                           Lipex 102™          Butyrospermum       Refined and deodorized shea butter.                 1–3
                                                                                                                                                                               Parkii Butter       Low color and odor. Suitable for use in low
                                                                                                                                                                                                   concentrations across a wide range of skin

beautiful butters: semi-solids
                                                                                                                                                                                                   care formulations.

                                                                                                                                                           Lipex 106™          Shorea Stenoptera   Refined and deodorized illipe butter. Low           1–2
                                                                                                                                                                               Seed Butter         color and odor. Suitable for use in low
                                                                                                                                                                                                   concentrations across a wide range of skin
                                                                                                                                                                                                   care formulations.
                                                                                                     TYPICAL USE CONCENTRATIONS (%)
                                                                                             skin        sun      hair         lip         color           Lipex               Theobroma Cacao     Cosmetic grade cocoa butter with a high            1–5*                                      2–4
Product              INCI (EU)         Description                                           care        care     care        care       cosmetics         CocoaSoft™          Seed Butter         melting point, superior crystallization profile   5–15**
                                                                                                                                                                                                   and unique soft, pliable texture. Suitable for
                                                                                                                                                                                                   skin care, lip care and dermo-cosmetics.
Lipex Shea™          Butyrospermum     High stability semi-solid shea butter with            1–10                 1–4         2–4
                     Parkii Butter     a superior crystallization profile. Suitable
                                                                                                                                                           Lipex IllipeSoft™   Shorea Stenoptera   Cosmetic grade illipe butter with a high           1–5*                                      2–4
                                       for use across a wide range of cosmetic
                                                                                                                                                                               Seed Butter         melting point, superior crystallization profile   5–15**
                                       applications.
                                                                                                                                                                                                   and unique soft, pliable texture. Suitable for
                                                                                                                                                                                                   skin care, lip care and dermo-cosmetics
Lipex SheaSoft™ TR   Butyrospermum     Fully-traceable and advanced shea butter              1–5*                             2–4
                     Parkii Butter     with a creamy texture, high melting point,           3–30**
                                                                                                                                                           Lipex SMP™          Hydrogenated        Highly versatile, oxidative-stable, solid          1–20                                                      20–30
                                       rapid crystallization and documented skin
                                                                                                                                                                               Vegetable Oil       emollient with a sharp melting profile for
                                       moisturizing benefits
                                                                                                                                                                                                   achieving unique texture transformations.
                                                                                                                                                                                                   Excellent base for creating aerated products
                                                                                                                      *lotions and creams **body butters
                                                                                                                                                                                                   and efficient texturizer for cosmetic pencils,
                                                                                                                                                                                                   sticks and crayons.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        *lotions and creams **body butters

                                 Lipex SheaSoft TR                                               ™
                                                                                                                                                                   Unleash your imagination to fashion new                                           100
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Solid Fat Content (%)

                                                                                                                                                                   formulations offering unique texture transformations.                             80
          A fully traceable, semi-solid shea butter with a slow, smooth melting profile
                                                                                                                                                                   Solid at room temperature, Lipex SMP transforms                                   60
              that gives a unique creamy texture and enhanced sensory benefits.
                                                                                                                                                                   rapidly to a low viscosity liquid at body temperature                             40

                                                                                      Solid Fat Content (%)                                                        with the potential to provide a cooling sensation when                            20
          Lipex SheaSoft TR has documented
          moisturizing benefits and is produced using
                                                                                                                                                                   melting. So go wild with everything from precision lip                              0

          only shea kernels from a segregated supply                                                                                                               pencils that glide on like a balm to aerated soufflés                                      10     15     20     25      30     35       40

          chain, fully traceable to our Kolo Nafaso                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Temperature (°C)
                                                                                                                                                                   that melt onto the skin at first touch.
          direct sourcing program in West Africa.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Lipex SMP™                Shea butter

          Empowering women.
          Improving livelihoods.
          Securing the future.
                                                                                                                Temperature (°C)                                        Get creative with Lipex SMP                                                                                                 ™

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Our structuring agents offer good crystallization behavior and a choice of melting profiles                                                    The composition of the emollient and emulsifier you choose will always influence the viscosity,
to enable you to achieve the desired texture and consistency for your skin care and color                                                      stability and skin feel of your cosmetic formulation. Our Akoline range of vegetable derived
cosmetic applications. Based on vegetable fats, these triglyceride ingredients are designed                                                    emulsifiers comprises high quality ingredients renowned for their mildness. Well suited for
to show good compatibility with other ingredients when structuring both emulsion and                                                           natural skin care, they provide beautifully soft and elegant formulations.
anhydrous formulations and are particularly suitable for cosmetic sticks and pencils.
                                                                                                                                               Available either as 100% non-diluted or 50% water diluted, our ethoxylated shea butter
                                                                                                                                               reduces the potential for irritation typically associated with surfactant-based products
                                                                                                                                               and is mild enough for use in baby care. It delivers good foaming properties and improves
                                                                                                                                               viscosity in rinse off cleansers for skin and hair, including transparent formulations.

structuring agents                                                                                                                             emulsifiers & surfactants
                                                                                         TYPICAL USE CONCENTRATIONS (%)                                                                                                                         TYPICAL USE CONCENTRATIONS (%)
                                                                                 skin       sun      hair         lip          color                                                                                                    skin       sun      hair      lip     color
Product        INCI (EU)        Description                                      care       care     care        care        cosmetics          Product         INCI (EU)            Description                                        care       care     care     care   cosmetics

Akofine P™     Hydrogenated     Structurizing vegetable triglyceride.            1–4                                            1–4            Akoline MCM™     Caprylic/            Medium chain mono-/diglyceride with high           1–3                                      1–3
               Vegetable Oil    High melting point (mp 59 – 61 °C). Stabilizes                                                                                  Capric Glycerides    solubilization capacity. Co-emulsifier for
                                structure and increases temperature                                                                                                                  o/w emulsions. Suitable for microemulsion
                                resistance in anhydrous formulations. Skin                                                                                                           formulations. (HLB 8–9). Skin care and color
                                care and color cosmetic sticks.                                                                                                                      cosmetics.

Akofine R™     Hydrogenated     Structurizing vegetable triglyceride.            1–5                                            1–5            Akoline PGPR™    Polyglyceryl-3       An efficient non-ionic w/o emulsifier and          2–5                                      2–5
               Vegetable Oil    High melting point (mp 58 – 60 °C) and                                                                                          Polyricinoleate      dispersion stabilizer. (HLB 3–4). Suitable for
                                good thermal stability. Stabilizes oil based                                                                                                         general skin care and color cosmetics.
                                dispersions and increases texture in
                                anhydrous and emulsion formulations.                                                                           Akoline SL™      Sodium Stearoyl      Highly polar anionic o/w emulsifier. (HLB 17).     0.2–1
                                Skin care and color cosmetics                                                                                                   Lactylate            Stabilizes liquid crystals. Releases lactic
                                                                                                                                                                                     acid giving improved skin firmness and
Lipex BC™      Hydrogenated     Triglyceride base for cosmetic pencil and        5–10*                          2–10          2–15**                                                 smoothness. Suitable for general skin care.
               Vegetable Oil    stick formulations. Designed to control bloom                                                10– 50***
                                and provide structure. Creates firm, smooth                                                                    Lipex 102 E75™   PEG-75 Shea Butter   Water dispersible shea butter.                      1-3                1-3
                                and uniform textures that melt at body                                                                         100% & 50%       Glycerides           Mild non-ionic surfactant. Acts as a
                                temperature and deliver a soft, creamy                                                                                                               solubilizer for lipophilic ingredients, improves
                                payoff. Also suitable for skin care.                                                                                                                 viscosity and decreases irritancy in rinse-off
                                                                                                        *body butters **lipsticks ***pencils                                         hair and body care formulations.

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HALAL
                                                                                                                                                                           TAYYIB
                                                                                                                                                                  H00103            A0097
                                                                                      ISO 16128 definition                                                        01613             AS

                                                                                                                                                                                                        Life Cycle    China
                                             Product                                Natural       Derived Natural           2-0001-04-100-00   2-0001-04-100-00                             Traceable    Analysis    Compliant

approvals & certifica-                       emollients

tions                                        Akogel™                                                    •           •   •         •                                        •                                            •
                                             Akosoft 36™                                                •           •                                                      •                                            •
There are several public and private         Akosun™                                                    •                                                                  •                                            •
standards governing natural cosmetics        High Oleic Brassica Oil™                 •                                                                                    •                                            •
and we strive to provide ingredients         Lipex 102™                               •                                                                                    •                                            •
that not only fulfill demands for func-
                                             Lipex 106™                               •                                                                                    •                                            •
tionality, but also provide compliance
                                             Lipex 109 S™                                               •                                                                  •                                            •
for approval by the various certifying
                                             Lipex 120™ *                             •                                                                                    •                                            •
bodies. Please note that all our AAK
                                             Lipex 203™                               •                                                                                    •                                            •
                                             Lipex 205™                               •                                                                                    •                               •            •
Personal Care ingredients based on           Lipex Bassol C™                                            •           •   •                                                  •                                            •
palm oil are sustainably sourced and         Lipex Cellect™                                             •                                                                  •                                            •
certified. All products listed in the        Lipex CocoaSoft™                                           •           •   •                                                  •                                            •
catalogue are from non-GMO sources           Lipex IllipeSoft™                                          •           •   •                                                  •                                            •
and there is no risk for cross contami-      Lipex L’sens™ **                                           •           •                                                      •                                            •
nation of animal material. No animal         Lipex Omega 3/6™ **                                        •           •   •                                                  •                                            •
testing has been performed. Based on         Lipex PreAct™                                              •           •   •                                                  •                                            •
this, we consider all products suit-         Lipex Shea™                                                •           •   •                                                  •                               •            •
able for use for vegetarian and vegan
                                             Lipex SheaClear™                         •                                                                                    •                                            •
purposes.
                                             Lipex SheaLight™                                           •           •   •                                                                                               •
                                             Lipex SheaLiquid™ TR                     •                                                                                    •                   •                        •
Use the table on the right as a guide
                                             Lipex SheaSoft™ TR                                         •               •                                                                      •                        •
                                             Lipex SheaTris™                          •                                                                                    •                                            •
when selecting ingredients that are          Lipex Shea W™                                              •           •                                                                                                   •
approved and/or certified according to       Lipex Shea WM™                                             •           •                                                      •
specific standards. Regarding the ISO        Lipex SMP™                                                 •               •         •                                        •                                            •
16128 standards, we have indicated
whether our products are considered
                                             structuring agents
natural or derived natural according to
the definitions set out in the guidelines.
For more details on this, and for all
                                             Akofine P™                                                 •           •   •                            •                     •                                            •
official certificates, letters of approval
                                             Akofine R™                                                 •               •                                                  •                                            •
and status updates, please contact
                                             Lipex BC™                                                  •           •             •                                        •                                            •
AAK Personal Care.
                                             emulsifiers & surfactants

                                             Akoline MCM™                                               •           •             •                                        •                                            •
                                             Akoline PGPR™                                              •           •   •
                                             Akoline SL™                                                •           •             •                                                                                     •
                                             Lipex 102 E75™ 100% & 50%

                                             *with 0.015%*derived natural content
                                             ** with some natural content

22                                                                                                                                                                                                                               23
Version 5: 2021

AAK
ACADEMY                                               ™

– the knowledge centre
for lipid technology
• Skin health
• Lipid chemistry
• Sustainable sourcing and processing
• Optimizing functionality and skin feel
• Crystallization and rheology
     and so much more...

At AAK, we apply our experience and expertise
to optimize the functionality of renewable,
vegetable derived lipids. The AAK Academy
is all about sharing our insights and know-how
to make you a master in technical application,
because the more you know about lipid
technology, the easier it is to find the best
solution for your formulation.                            AAK Sweden AB
                                                          AAK Personal Care
                                                          SE-374 82 Karlshamn Sweden
As a customer of AAK Personal Care you
                                                          Phone +46 454 820 00
have unique access to AAK’s team of lipid
experts through the AAK Academy. Attending                AAK USA Inc.
our courses enables product developers                    499 Thornall St., 5th Floor
                                                          Edison, NJ 08837 USA
and formulators to learn more about the                   Phone +1 973 344 1300
specialized technology and paves the way for
open and constructive dialogue around future              AAK China Ltd.
development opportunities.                                6F, Building 6, #3601
                                                          Dongfang Road, Shanghai China 200125
                                                          Phone +86 21 6466 7979

                                                          Contact information for our
                                                          international distributors can be
                                                          found at aakpersonalcare.com

                   For full details, please contact
                   AAK Personal Care                            Follow us on LinkedIn

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