The Erosion and the Renaissance of the Mediterranean Diet: A Sustainable Cultural Resource
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The Erosion and the Renaissance of the Mediterranean Diet: A Sustainable Cultural Resource Sandro Dernini. Coordinator of the Forum on Mediterranean Food Cultures, Rome The Mediterranean diet is an expression of the way of life and identity of the peoples and cul- tures that inhabit the region and is, therefore, a concept that goes far beyond food. It is rather a lifestyle based on tradition, sustainability and well-being. Thus, the consumption of local seasonal products, the preparation of dishes following traditional recipes and respect for the biodiversity of the environment are the pillars of such a varied diet, recognised as one of the healthiest in the world. This ensures the conservation of the territory and the development of traditional activities characteristic of each community. The preservation of the Mediterranean diet faced with the challenges brought about by globalisation is, therefore, a key element for the environmental sustainability of the region. The Mediterranean diet, understood as a way made by its landscapes, ancient agricultural of life in continuous evolution through time, traditions and food acquisitions from other is a complex system of shared knowledge of parts of the world. The Mediterranean diet cultural and food traditions, landscapes and is a result of the millennial history of the know-how, a result of a particular environ- Mediterranean where traditions and creation mental historical multifaceted geographic are a result of crossing cultures in particular region: the Mediterranean. In the Mediter- environmental conditions and the expression ranean, there is spreading awareness of the of a multi-faceted food universe. social, cultural, health and economic dimen- The ancient Greek word diaita means sion of “food”, shared by all Mediterranean equilibrium, lifestyle. Therefore, the Medi- people. Food is an identity for Mediterraneans, terranean diet is more than just a diet; it is a a time-place of dialogues and exchanges. Food whole lifestyle pattern with social and physi- is also the main good traded in the Mediter- cal activity playing an important role. It was ranean region. Food is a “total social fact”, continuously recreated in response to the en- and is an element of paramount importance vironment in the diverse Mediterranean com- concerning social life in the Mediterranean munities, surrounding them with a feeling of area and abroad. The Mediterranean diet cultural identity and historically forming part is the expression of Mediterranean history of their way of life.
76 The Erosion and the Renaissance of the Mediterranean Diet: A Sustainable Cultural Resource Sandro Dernini
The Mediterranean diet is transmitted mental conditions. Throughout the years, the
from generation to generation, and it is con- Mediterranean has been a crossroads of diverse
stantly recreated by communities and groups people who have developed different civiliza-
in response to their changing environment and tions, languages, religions, food traditions and
history. This cultural food heritage is repro- practices. The Mediterranean landscape has
duced in many social and cultural contexts of been completely shaped by knowledge and
the Mediterranean while sharing knowledge secular agricultural practices of the popula-
of the processes of production, preparation and tion, reflecting its unique cultural diversity
consumption of food. These processes are part through its food and the rich biodiversity of
of an inheritance that favours rural sustain- its landscape.
ability and reproduces symbolisation systems,
among which eating together is the foundation The Mediterranean diet represents
of social practices, rituals and festivities char- the collective “memory” of different
acterising the Mediterranean diet. communities living in the Mediterranean.
The Mediterranean diet, as an expression This is the peculiar reality of the
of the different Mediterranean food cultures, is Mediterranean region with different food
the set of practices, representations, expressions, cultures, lifestyles and environmental
knowledge, skills, spaces and associated objects conditions
that the people of the Mediterranean have
built, and historically recreated, in interaction The Mediterranean diet, recognised as be-
with nature. It is a highly diversified heritage, ing one of the healthiest diets in the world,
which makes it impossible to think in terms of through the variety of its food cultural heritage,
a single model for all countries. Food traditions is still little known from the point of view of
vary from country to country in the Mediter- the biodiversity and nutritional well-being as-
ranean basin and as a consequence the project sociated with it. The Mediterranean is among
must take stock of the different local realities the richest regions in biodiversity in the world
and feed on the wealth of specific cultural and and many of its native species are important
social traits. The Mediterranean diet expresses ingredients in the preparation of century-old
the intimate relationship between people and traditional food recipes. Owing to their pecu-
nature. Its shores and islands have been wit- liar nutritional value and taste, these resources
ness to dietetic restrictions, fasts or ritual food contribute to making local food preparations
that today coexist and have been successively diverse, attractive and healthy at the same time.
imposed by the three main monotheistic faiths: Unfortunately, globalisation of agricultural
Judaism, Christianity and Islam. Eating habits markets and changes in lifestyles are having a
are connected with an anthropological dimen- profound impact on the conservation and use
sion, which is complex and has ancient origins, of natural resources, from landscapes to food
that sees the relationship between people and biodiversity, leading to their irreplaceable loss
food as dependent on environmental factors, at an unprecedented rate.
current cultural customs and religious rules. The agricultural biodiversity is decreasing:
The Mediterranean diet represents the col- in the 20th century about 75% of the plant
lective “memory” of different communities species, which means approximately 300,000
living in the Mediterranean. This is the pecu- varieties, were lost all over the world. In Italy
liar reality of the Mediterranean region with just 2,000 fruit tree varieties have survived out
different food cultures, lifestyles and environ- of the 8,000 recorded at the end of the 19thQuaderns de la Mediterrània 16, 2011: 75-82 77
Mediterranean Diet Pyramid.
century. Today 1,500 fruit varieties are threat- diversity of Mediterranean food biodiversity is
ened. The biodiversity of the lands bordering presently at risk of extinction because of eco-
the Mediterranean Sea and the high number nomic changes, standardisation of lifestyles,
of endemic species make the region a hot spot loss of awareness and appreciation, particularly
of global biodiversity. The loss of agricultural among younger generations about their own
diversity occurring around the Mediterranean cultural food heritage. Despite its increasing
area is having negative repercussions on the popularity worldwide, the Mediterranean diet
food security and livelihood of populations is today endangered in all countries of the
living in the region. An exacerbation of the Mediterranean region; the abandonment of
genetic erosion of agro-biodiversity due to traditional healthy habits and the emergence
globalisation trends and climate change is of new lifestyles associated with socioeconomic
reducing the sustainability of local produc- changes pose important threats to the preser-
tion systems and along with it our ability to vation and transmission of the Mediterranean
safeguard the Mediterranean diet. diet to future generations. The Mediterranean
The strong erosion of biodiversity now diet is a very important component of the cul-
observed is in the process of undermining tural, social, territorial, environmental and gas-
the very basis of the Mediterranean diet. The tronomic heritage as well as of the economy of78 The Erosion and the Renaissance of the Mediterranean Diet: A Sustainable Cultural Resource Sandro Dernini
many countries in the Mediterranean region. Sapienza University of Rome, the Rome Call
But, within the Union for the Mediterranean, for Action on Food in the Mediterranean was
similarly to the Euro-Mediterranean Partner- issued, which stressed the need to act together
ship in the past, it is still not acknowledged and to revitalise local capacities towards the increas-
enhanced as a sustainable resource for achiev- ing erosion of the diversity of Mediterranean
ing an effective sustainable development in the food culture heritage. The Call for Action also
Mediterranean. recommended reinforcing the attention to the
new food habits of the young generations, who
The diversity of Mediterranean food in the southern Mediterranean countries are
biodiversity is presently at risk of the biggest majority of the population, with
extinction because of economic changes, increased trends of being overweight and obese
standardisation of lifestyles, loss of throughout Mediterranean countries.
awareness and appreciation The Mediterranean diet as it was described
back in the late 1950s, based mainly on cereals,
This decline in the Mediterranean’s healthy fruits, vegetables and frugality, is no longer the
diet patterns was already predicted. In the same. The present day Mediterranean lifestyle
Mediterranean Strategy for Sustainable De- is characterised by a wide availability of food
velopment report, issued in 2005 by the United and an ever increasing state of inactivity,
Nations Environment Programme, it was also leading towards a situation of apparent psy-
pointed out that: “Mediterranean agricultural cho-physical well-being which frequently does
and rural models, which are at the origins of not correspond to the real state of health. The
Mediterranean identity, are under increasing typical eating habits of the Mediterranean
threat from the predominance of imported con- populations have been progressively enriched
sumption patterns. This trend is illustrated in with food of a high protein content, saturated
particular by the decline of the Mediterranean fats and sugars to the point where they now
dietary model despite the recognised positive exceed the necessary intake levels. We live,
effects on health. The prospective scenario for therefore, in an age of “apparent well-being”
the expected impacts of trade liberalisation, where the increase in life expectancy runs
climate change and the lack of efficient rural parallel to increased risk.
policies offers a gloomy picture in some south- In 2009, the Mediterranean Diet Founda-
ern and eastern Mediterranean countries, with tion and the Forum on Mediterranean Food
the prospect of aggravated regional imbalances, Cultures activated a process of dialogue for
deeper ecological degradation and persistent achieving among the international Mediter-
or accrued social instability. […] Create a ranean diet scientific community a consensus
conducive regional environment to help coun- position on a new revised updated and unpat-
tries develop policies and efficient procedures ented Mediterranean pyramid as well as on the
for the labelling and quality certification of Mediterranean diet as a model of a sustainable
Mediterranean food products and to promote diet. This consensus position was reached in
the Mediterranean diet.” November 2009 at the 3rd International CIIS-
In the same year, 2005, at the 3rd Forum CAM1 Conference held in Parma, Italy, and fur-
on Mediterranean Food Cultures held in the ther developed in March 2010 at the 8th Inter-
1. Centro Interuniversitario di Recerca sulle Culture Alimentari Mediterranee.Quaderns de la Mediterrània 16, 2011: 75-82 79
national Congress on the Mediterranean Diet, and the form and context of eating them, which
held in Barcelona by the Mediterranean Diet are also key components of the Mediterrane-
Foundation.2 This new Med Diet pyramid was an diet. The concepts of seasonality, of local
conceived as a simplified main frame in order products and of variety of colours for fruits
to be adapted to the different country specific and vegetables were introduced together with
variations related to the various geographical, frugality, main meals, conviviality and physical
socio-economic and cultural contexts of today’s activity. The Mediterranean diet is a model for
contemporary Mediterranean lifestyle, with no sustainable diets, in which nutrition, local food
USA copyright as it was made in 1994 for the production, biodiversity, culture and sustain-
first Mediterranean diet pyramid. ability were strongly connected together, with a
low impact for the environment. Biodiversity is
The Mediterranean diet was revised in one of the three pillars that hold firm the new
the light of modernity and well-being, revised pyramid of the Mediterranean diet. It is
without leaving out the different cultural intimately linked with and highly complemen-
and religious traditions and different tary to the other two pillars: cultural diversity
national identities and environmental diversity.
In 2010, the request presented in 2008 by
The new pyramid of the contemporary the Governments of Spain, Italy, Greece and
Mediterranean diet lifestyle took into consid- Morocco, for the inscription of the Mediterra-
eration the evolution of society and highlights nean diet on the UNESCO Representative List
the basic importance of physical activity, of of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Human-
conviviality, of drinking water, and privileges ity was approved with the following description:
the consumption of local seasonal food prod- “The Mediterranean diet constitutes a set of
ucts. The Mediterranean diet was revised in skills, knowledge, practices and traditions rang-
the light of modernity and well-being, without ing from the landscape to the table, including
leaving out the different cultural and religious the crops, harvesting, fishing, conservation,
traditions and different national identities. processing, preparation and, particularly, con-
Main foods included in the common food bas- sumption of food. The Mediterranean diet is
ket are: an abundance of olive oil and olives, characterised by a nutritional model that has
fruits, vegetables, cereals (mostly unrefined), remained constant over time and space, consist-
legumes, nuts and fish, moderate amounts of ing mainly of olive oil, cereals, fresh or dried
dairy products (preferably cheese and yoghurt) fruit and vegetables, a moderate amount of
and low quantities of meat and meat products. fish, dairy and meat, and many condiments and
Wine in moderation is acceptable when it is spices, all accompanied by wine or infusions,
not contradictory to religious or social norms. always respecting beliefs of each community.
But the idiosyncrasy of the pattern is not only However, the Mediterranean diet (from the
a list of foods (some traditional) but that it also Greek diaita, or way of life) encompasses more
refers to sustainability (mostly fresh, seasonal than just food. It promotes social interaction,
and locally grown products) as well as prepa- since communal meals are the cornerstone of
ration techniques following traditional recipes social customs and festive events. It has given
2. A. Bach-Faig et al., «Mediterranean Diet Pyramid Today: Science and Cultural Updates», Public Health Nutrition,
2011 (in press).80 The Erosion and the Renaissance of the Mediterranean Diet: A Sustainable Cultural Resource Sandro Dernini
rise to a considerable body of knowledge, songs, millennia. Traditional knowledge and practices
maxims, tales and legends. The system is rooted ensured the conservation and sustainable use
in respect for the territory and biodiversity, and of food biodiversity within healthy ecosystems.
ensures the conservation and development of Agriculture, diets and nutrition have changed
traditional activities and crafts linked to fishing so dramatically in recent decades that now
and farming in the Mediterranean communi- the concept of a sustainable diet seems novel.
ties of which Soria in Spain, Koroni in Greece, The diversity of Mediterranean food cultures,
Cilento in Italy and Chefchaouen in Morocco expressed by the wide food variety of the
are examples. Women play a particularly vital Mediterranean diet, should be foreseen as an
role in the transmission of expertise, as well effective resource for the sustainable develop-
as knowledge of rituals, traditional gestures ment of the Mediterranean.
and celebrations, and the safeguarding of
techniques.” Agriculture, diets and nutrition have
Now more than before, it is urgent to iden- changed so dramatically in recent decades
tify and to carry forward a set of safeguarding that now the concept of a sustainable diet
measures for the development of joint activities seems novel
to reduce the increasingly rapid erosion of the
Mediterranean diet and to promote its sustain- In early 80s, the notion of “sustainable
able renaissance as an expression of the whole diets” started to be explored to recommend
Mediterranean food culture system. Therefore, diets healthier for the environment as well
new attention now needs to be paid to the link as for consumers. With the food globalisation
between the Mediterranean diet and the en- process and the increased industrialisation of
vironment in the Mediterranean area and, agricultural systems with no attention to the
consequently, one of the priorities must be the sustainability of the agro-foods ecosystems, the
development of the Mediterranean diet as a concept of the sustainable diet was neglected
sustainable diet. for many years.
Sustainable diets are those “diets with low The safeguarding and enhancement of the
environmental impacts which contribute to Mediterranean diet should be linked to the
food and nutrition security and to a healthy needs of sustainable rural development, the
life for present and future generations. Sustain- preservation of agriculture in less-favoured
able diets are protective and respectful of bio- and mountain areas and the multi-functional
diversity and ecosystems, culturally acceptable, nature of agriculture. Activities should be
accessible, economically fair and affordable; developed aimed at rationalising the use
nutritionally adequate, safe and healthy; while of water resources for irrigation, through
optimising natural and human resources.”3 The integrated soil and water management and
notion of a sustainable diet would have been the programme to combat desertification; ac-
curious a few hundred years ago, when peo- tivities, specific technical and socioeconomic
ple obtained the majority of their foods from aspects of production systems in areas that
their ecosystems. Biodiversity was valued and rely on rain-fed farming, looking in particular
utilised; ecosystems and agro-ecological zones at the risks associated with soil erosion and
produced the foods that they had produced for desertification and the loss of biodiversity in
3. FAO, International Symposium on Biodiversity and Sustainable Diets, Rome, 2010.Quaderns de la Mediterrània 16, 2011: 75-82 81
agricultural and natural ecosystems across the age whose differences are to be understood and
Mediterranean region. safeguarded in a common denominator. This di-
Heavy genetic erosion has taken place in the versity and combination, in the different forms
Mediterranean countries since then, affecting of local interpretation of a complex heritage,
species and varieties that provide the very basis attests to a unicum based on common elements.
for a sustainable Mediterranean diet. Stand- Protecting this heritage means safeguarding lo-
ardisation of cultivation practices, mechanisa- cal vegetable species, focusing on biodiversity,
tion, monoculture and other changes affecting preserving orally handed down techniques today
traditional production systems across the region circulated through more formal information,
have reduced the spectrum of diversity used for and, above all, it means continuing to transmit
preparing healthy and nutritious food recipes. millennial rhythms and symbolic contents. The
At the same time, the cultural erosion result- urbanisation of society, integration of women
ing from new lifestyles is also affecting the into the labour market and retail development
diversity of food cultures that makes Mediter- are profoundly modifying Mediterranean di-
ranean foods so diverse and traceable to local etary behaviour. To ensure the safeguarding of
territories and traditions. Such a phenomenon the diversity of the Mediterranean food culture
is also undermining the identity of millions heritage is a critical base for the safeguarding of
of people living in this area whose traditions the Mediterranean diet, understood as a whole
are so intimately linked to food cultures. The non-separable cultural system.
abandonment of traditional healthy habits and The diversity of Mediterranean food cul-
the emergence of new lifestyles associated with tures, expressed by the wide food variety of
socioeconomic changes pose important threats the Mediterranean diet, should be recognised
to the preservation and transmission of the as a resource for a sustainable development to
Mediterranean diet to future generations. be safeguarded and enhanced, in both indus-
trialised and developing countries, to achieve
The cultural erosion resulting from new good health and nutritional well-being for all
lifestyles is also affecting the diversity of in the Mediterranean. It is necessary to refer
food cultures that makes Mediterranean more to a Mediterranean lifestyle of which the
foods so diverse and traceable to local “diet” is only a part.
territories and traditions The current perception of the Mediterra-
nean diet focuses principally on its functional
Therefore, the Mediterranean diet deserves health benefits, related to the consumption
and requires multiple and diverse scientific and of a balanced quantity of different nutrients,
cultural initiatives, focused on its preservation, distributed within a pyramid structure, instead
promotion and transmission. It is urgent, as of being associated more with the everyday
never before, to turn this negative trend back Mediterranean lifestyle of eating and living,
towards a sustainable Mediterranean food life- in which food has health, aesthetic, cultural,
style, rooted in respect for the territory, in the social and religious values − factors that should
sustainable management of natural resources, be perceived together for a nutritional well-be-
in the recognition and consumption of seasonal ing and educational renewal.
local products, and in the appreciation of the The global scenario of the complex real-
richness of local varieties and biodiversity. ity of the Mediterranean food cultures, with
The Mediterranean diet as the expression their interdependent issues, requires inter-
of the Mediterranean food cultures is a herit- disciplinary and intercultural rethinking on82 The Erosion and the Renaissance of the Mediterranean Diet: A Sustainable Cultural Resource Sandro Dernini the development of new holistic ecosystem again means providing real recognition of our approaches connecting the nutritional well- common “Mediterranean” identity, in order to being of the individual and the community actively face together and solve the complex with the sustainability of the Mediterranean problem linked to the erosion and the renais- diet. By educating and re-orienting the Medi- sance of the Mediterranean diet as well as the terranean consumer in the direction of diver- heritage of the Mediterranean food cultures. A sified food consumption habits, it should be common action is necessary on the renaissance possible to reverse the trend of the erosion of of the Mediterranean diet; therefore, Mediter- the Mediterranean food heritage. Placing the raneans must act together to revitalise their diversity of the Mediterranean food cultures local capacities for the sustainability of their at the basis of the Mediterranean diet once agro-food systems and chains.
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