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world of denim
References Worldwide Issue 6 www.monforts.com
Competence
in Denim
Finishing THINKING AHEAD
FOR SUSTAINABLE SOLUTIONS
>Proven success.
The Monforts range combinations for denim finishing are now even
more cost-efficient and eco-friendly: The Monforts ECO Applicator is
now used for liquor application.
Drying, stretching and skewing functions for the denim fabric are
performed by a modified Thermex-Thermo-Stretch unit. This
configuration allows fabric speeds of up to 40 m/min to be achieved
with 14.5 oz/yd2 denim on the ”single rubber” version.
The ”double rubber” version comprises two compressive
shrinkage units and two felt calenders in line. Together
with the innovative Thermex stretching unit, fabric
speeds of up to 80 m/min can thus be achieved with
14.5 oz/yd2 denim.
On both range versions, the denim fabric is
stretched and skewed far more gently than with
conventional range combinations. Ask our denim
technologists.
We will be happy to advise you.
A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG
Germany | A Member of CHTC Fong’s Group
www.monforts.com
Sustainability
drives
the agenda
In reading this latest issue of previously achievable. This results
Monforts World of Denim, it will in both higher productivity and
quickly become apparent that again, lower energy consumption.
sustainable processes and Further efficiencies stem from
products are becoming of the integration of the self-cleaning
paramount importance to both Eco Booster HRC which is now
manufacturers and brands. fully integrated into the latest
As James Veenhoff of the chamber design on Montex
Alliance for Responsible Denim stenter dryers.
observes on page 21, there are This module is equipped with
three major ecological issues an electric drive for computer-
facing the denim industry – water, controlled optimisation of the
energy and chemicals. heat exchanger’s performance
Monforts is supplying to the prevailing exhaust air
advanced technologies which are streams – something that is not
providing an active difference in possible with purely static heat
all of these areas. exchanger modules.
Our latest Eco Applicator soft High quality and differentiation
coating unit, for example, allows through advanced finishing
the very efficient application of techniques are essential to
finish coatings to fabrics, success in the highly-competitive
compared to a conventional denim market which is now
padder system. By applying only dominated by manufacturers in
the precise amount of functional the Asia-Pacific region. The major
finish, the subsequent drying time manufacturers have been very
can be shortened – in some cases successful in supplying their
dramatically so. Customers have products to the main markets,
reported cycles which previously which remain Europe and the
took on average around 160 USA, and heightened sustainable
minutes now being reduced to credentials are becoming
A. Monforts Textilmaschinen
just 40 minutes, with significant increasingly important.
GmbH & Co. KG
energy savings. As Adnan Feroz of Rajby Postfach 10 17 01
Monforts is now the only Industries remarks on page 28 of D-41017 Mönchengladbach
manufacturer offering completely this issue, there is now simply no Blumenberger Straße 143-145
European-made integrated room in the denim industry for D-41061 Mönchengladbach
coating lines from a single source companies who are not adopting Telefon: +49 - (0) - 21 61-401-0
and tailored to the subsequent the latest sustainable processing Telefax: +49 - (0) - 21 61-401-498
Monforts drying technology. techniques. Internet: www.monforts.de
Specifically for denim manufac- Monforts will continue to focus eMail: info@monforts.de
turers, the Monforts Eco Denim on developing ever-more efficient
concept combines the Eco finishing technologies to support
Applicator with the Thermex our customers in all aspects of
Thermo Stretch unit for the their business.
stretching and skewing of denim PUBLISHED BY MONFORTS
fabric under steam, with a much Roland Hampel MARKETING GROUP
gentler treatment than was Managing Director
World of Denim | Issue 6 | 3
www.monforts.com
Monforts denim
customers are
on trend for 2019
With sustainability now driving the agenda in the
denim field, the special Denim Première Vision
Smart and Sustainable exhibition at the show in
Paris featured the notable achievements in this
area of many of the denim mills who are valued
users of Monforts finishing technology.
4 | World of Denim | Issue 6
FINISHING
We’re seeing a return to much more simple
and subtle designs. Denim is taking a rest from
vintage looks and there’s much less emphasis on
elaborate finishes. Everything is in the patterning,
and jacquard weaves are featuring prominently.
So it’s a big change.
Marion Foret,
Denim Première Vision design trends specialist.
Among highlights were the programme. Its intention is to exhibition have been Green
Re-Create project of Turkey’s improve the livelihoods and Screen certified.
Kilim Denim, based on the economic development of poorer
creation of new yarns from post- cotton-producing regions around Strictest test
consumer jeans, and the Renim the world, while reducing the This means that all chemical
range from Tavex, manufactured negative effects of their processes pass the strictest toxico-
at the Spanish company’s plant production on both humans and logical test known in textiles. In
in Morocco. the environment. LNJ’s jeans now addition, the garment has been
In the production of authentic contain 62% BCI cotton. washed with the new Geo-power
sustainable Tavex fabrics, the With its Herbal Blue, Pakistan’s NPS product, with which a true
entire process is exhaustively Soorty is reviving indigo dyes stone wash effect can be achieved
controlled, with complete based on natural resources. without using any pumice stone.
traceability of all the materials Herbal Blue uses GOTS V4.0 This results in a product with a
used. The Renim denim range certified dye stuff in an lower carbon footprint and 80%
contains a 30% minimum of established process which can water conservation.
recycled material – 15% recycled achieve the same colour as The sustainable credentials of
polyester and 15% recycled regular indigo dyes, along with Denim International’s entire
cotton from post-consumer jeans. equivalent wash downs and processing plant in Pakistan was
Santanderina meanwhile visuals. The company’s Active also acknowledged. It is equipped
presented denims based on Refibra Jacket combines the Herbal Blue with the latest laser and ozone
– a Tencel cellulosic fibre which is colouring with 50% organic technologies for water-less
made from cotton waste fabrics. cotton and 50% high resistance processing and is also Detox
fibre construction. certified, meaning 11 chemicals
Water savings Velcorex Since 1828 of France which have been identified as
Thirst-free H2NO denim is made has also introduced velvets and causing pollution have been
with a new technology developed sportswear fabrics coloured with entirely eliminated.
by Naveena Denim of Pakistan natural dyes to give them the At the show, Denim Interna-
which employs air to reproduce appearance of denims in its tional’s head of R&D Massimiliano
ozone gas conditions and provide Evolutive Colours collection, while Gioielli – a veteran of denim
denims with a worn and aged all of the products used to wash finishing with leading companies in
appearance. The process the Arvind denim jacket included Italy, China, India and now
conserves up to 90% of the water in the Smart and Sustainable Pakistan, whose know-how is
and energy usually consumed in
achieving such effects – an Soft and creamy fabrics are being
achieved through blends of lyocell,
estimated 12 litres of water per pair recycled elastane, cotton and linen,
of jeans. It is also allowing between resulting in liquid-like fabrics, such as this
10-12 tons of chemicals to be shirt from Hong Kong’s Black Peony.
saved by the company annually.
LNJ Denim of India is a strong
supporter of the Better Cotton
Initiative (BCI), employing cotton
from its equitable-trade
World of Denim | Issue 6 | 5
www.monforts.com
greatly admired and valued – said The ‘paperbag’ pull-string waist will be big in both
the company was currently denim skirts and jeans, as developed by Monforts
customers such as Pakistan’s Rajby Industries.
exploring the use of chlorophyll as
a dye for denim.
The dark green pigment is what
gives plants their colour.
“Chlorophyll has only been used
as a food colouring in the past, and
it’s not easy, but we believe we
have now developed a feasible
process for the chlorophyll dyeing
Cut-out panels are prominent,
of denim,” Gioielli said. “It has the enhanced by wispy elements of
potential to allow a thousand embroidery, tulle, embossed
metres of fabric to be coloured plastics and other structural
variations, as in this design
with just a glass of water.”
from Global Denim.
Denim trends In addition to power stretch and and button-down shirts are boxy
Marion Foret of Denim PV’s bi-stretch, she adds, this is being and short. Denim shirts are
design team also provided a tour achieved through generous cuts, currently especially popular for
of the show’s trends area to point looser constructions and less women and mid-length peasant
out some of the latest innovations restrictive fits. Soft and creamy skirts are returning, often
in respect of design features for fabrics are being achieved featuring asymmetrical hems and
the Spring/Summer 2019 season. through blends of lyocell, prominent ‘paper bag waists’,
“In general we’re seeing a return recycled elastane, cotton and which are also appearing on
to much more simple and subtle linen. The result is liquid-like women’s wide leg trousers.
designs, with a lot of use of tone- fabrics. Trims, including polished Pastels and transparent
on-tone effects and delicate metals, smooth leather patches materials are also prominent,
features,” she said. “Denim is and graphic patterns are being Marion stressed, enhanced by
taking a rest from vintage looks added to finesse the generally wispy elements of tulle,
and there’s much less emphasis neat, sober and neutral aesthetic. embossed plastics, cut-out labels,
on elaborate finishes such as laser ‘Inside out denim’ is a new tracing paper and muslin. In
effects and prints. Everything is in novelty now appearing, with the contrast, other trims are huge,
the patterning, and jacquard fabric being decorated on the with stretched out labels, extra-
weaves are featuring prominently. inside with prints and jacquard long threads that take on a fringe
There’s not an as much extensive weaves, and revealed in only quality, enormous back yokes and
stretch in evidence this year – it’s subtle, but striking touches. patches and panels filling
being employed much more Pant legs are running extra-long significant areas behind denim
sparingly – but the demand for to allow for dramatic turn ups of structures adding significant
comfort remains as high as ever.” as much as 30cm, while jackets impact. ■
Chlorophyll has only been used as a food
colouring in the past, but we believe we have now
developed a feasible process for using it to
sustainably dye denim.
Massimiliano Gioielli,
Head of R&D, Denim International.
Denim producers participating at the show enjoying the benefits of Monforts finishing lines included:
Absolute Denim, Akkuş Tekstil, Artistic Milliners, Arvind, Azgard-9, Black Peony, Çalık Denim, Denim
Clothing Company, Denim International, Kassim, Kipaş, Naveena, Rajby Industries, Raymond Uco,
Santanderina, Soorty, Tavex, Toray International, US Denim Mills, Vicunha Textil
6 | World of Denim | Issue 6
How long should turn-ups be? How about 30cm, as proposed by Artistic Milliners? World of Denim | Issue 6 | 7
www.monforts.com
Arvind:
A long-term
approach to
sustainability
Patagonia – perhaps the most
well-known outdoor clothing brand in
terms of its pioneering approach to
sustainability – is happy to be supplied
with all of its denim by India’s Arvind.
8 | World of Denim | Issue 6
ARVIND
It’s not even funny
anymore, the amount of
waste we are generating
with used clothing –
it’s absurd.
Creative Director,
Stefano Aldighieri.
“Patagonia knows our denim is by supporting UN-certified climate 50% can be achieved. Exhaust air
completely traceable, which is not mitigation to off-set its carbon energy can also be reduced to a
always the case with other mills,” emissions. It is also working to minimum, which has a positive
says the company’s Creative further reduce emissions by effect on the emission load into
Director, Stefano Aldighieri. “The moving to solar energy, using the atmosphere.
great thing about Arvind, is that biomass fuels and investing in “We are also introducing new
from its foundation, the owners energy saving projects. ways of doing new things with
understood that if you want to indigo dyes – such as our Naruril
have a successful business you Eco Line Indigo denims using multi-dip
have to be aware of your impact – Arvind has also recently installed rope dyeing process using pure
and that includes responsibility to India’s first Monforts Eco Line vegetable indigo, which is the
people, too. In India, Arvind denim finishing machine for faster oldest dye known to mankind,”
already has one business already production, greater savings in says Stefano. “We have a growing
entirely run by women at every energy, and better flexibility in garment business in which we are
level, which is pretty progressive design and innovation. investing in new technology and
for the country.” The Eco Line, which can handle techniques, because having got
As far as manufacturing is fabric widths of 1.8 metres and the finishing of fabric right
concerned, Arvind’s current operate at high speeds of up to 80 through technologies such as the
annual denim capacity is now 110 m/min, is operating alongside four Monforts line, there’s a lot you
million metres and some key Montex foam finishing stenters, can do at the garment manufac-
initiatives have been specifically which are also able to handle this turing laundering stage.“
aimed at reducing the use of same width of material. “Our plant in Bangalore, for
energy, water and chemicals. The Eco Line system reduces example, has now become the
The manufacturing process of a energy losses and energy use, first in India to eliminate the use of
single pair of denim jeans usually increases thermal transfer and pumice stones in laundering, and
creates between 6-9kg of keeps the drying energy on the this is a big issue in terms of
industrial greenhouse gas textile material longer, so that it getting rid of the sludge created.
emissions and Arvind is now able can be used very efficiently. As a There are also a lot of positive
to supply carbon neutral products result, energy savings of up to things happening in respect of
World of Denim | Issue 6 | 9
www.monforts.com
laser garment finishing and other ranges, for example, are charac-
techniques, but perhaps Arvind is terised by high dimensional
in the position to make such stability with stretch in any
investments while other The cost of a pair direction, retaining shape over
companies are not. Sustainable of jeans is now less than time and also providing ideal
production always pays off, but comfort during day-to-day
the problem is it requires upfront it was twenty years ago. activities. Hybrids of denims and
investment and not all companies chinos, constructed with high
are in a position to do this.” Try buying a house or car warp cover, are also now available
for the same price as in saturated shade and with a very
Waste soft hand feel due to the use of
Recycling, he adds, will become back then. But we take two-ply yarns.
increasingly important. Across all of its ranges,
“It’s not even funny anymore, this for granted. however, the emphasis is now on
the amount of waste we are optimising the utilisation of
generating with used clothing – resources to bring out the best in
it’s absurd,” he says. “We have innovation and design.
been working towards 100% “Sustainability is now taking hold
recycled PET, for example, but so “I hope this is a reaction to fast in the denim industry,” Stefano
much of the waste material fashion in a positive way, concludes. “After many years of
available for recycling is in blends, because there are design and dilly-dallying, people are starting to
which makes things difficult. We aesthetic elements that are realise it’s time to act. We have to
are also looking at other natural always relevant in denim and be pragmatic in our decisions and
fibres as an alternative to cotton – have been for fifty years – it’s a make every choice in a responsible
linen, hemp, bamboo and lastly, question of reinforcing them. way, and that includes not trying to
wool – which to me is the most Generally, we stay away from increase capacity all the time. „The
eco-friendly fibre. Tencel is also a short-term trends and more we make, the more we are
great fibre with which superb concentrate on the macro trends competing against each other. The
fabric features can be achieved.” that will be around long term.” cost of a pair of jeans is now less
When it comes to trends, The crossover between casual than it was twenty years ago. Try
he believes a return to more wear and sportswear is certainly buying a house or car for the same
classic products and looks is now here for the longer term, he price as back then. But we take this
taking place. believes. Arvind’s Bi-stretch for granted.” ■
10 | World of Denim | Issue 6ARVIND
Going
Platinum
in Karachi
Sustainable denim
is our passion and we
are investing more and
Soorty is currently establishing a more to achieve
new denim garment manufacturing our objectives.
plant in Karachi, Pakistan, which
will be LEED Platinum certified.
Mansoor Bilal
LEED – Leadership in Energy and The LEED Gold Bangladesh 2017, even before being
Environmental Design – is the garment manufacturing operation showcased at Denim PV.
most widely used green building was established in 2014, when the “It’s made with Coolmax
rating system in the world and a company also opened a EcoMade technology, and helps
globally-recognised symbol of development centre in Amsterdam. keep the wearer cool and dry by
sustainable achievement. During 2016, a second denim moving moisture to the outside of
To achieve Platinum status, 80 manufacturing plant was opened the fabric where it can quickly
of a possible 100 points must be in Karachi, along with an open- evaporate,” explains Mansoor
achieved across six credit end spinning mill and a dedicated Bilal. “And since the Coolmax
categories – Sustainable Sites, recycling unit. In respect of the EcoMade fibre is made from 97%
Water Efficiency, Energy and latter, the company now has the recycled resources such as plastic
Atmosphere, Materials and capacity to recycle some 2.5 tons bottles, it means less material
Resources, Indoor Environmental of spinning, fabric and garment going to landfill.“
Quality and Innovation in Design. waste material per day and is “The addition of a special Lycra
Soorty has already established also collaborating with I:Collect fibre also provides 360 degree
a LEED Gold garment manufac- to establish post-consumer stretch in this lightweight fabric, so
turing plant in Bangladesh and waste processing. it combines a unique denim
continues to pioneer sustainable Following a systematic aesthetic with the softness and
developments across all of expansion programme, the comfort of a specially engineered,
its operations. company now has three Monforts second skin silhouette, making it
Montex stenters as well as three suitable for a variety of activities.” ■
Objectives Monforts sanforizing units. This
“Sustainable denim is our passion brings the company’s finished
and we are investing more and woven denim capacity to a
more to achieve our objectives,” monthly 5.5 million metres.
says Mansoor Bilal, the Soorty also recently became
company’s senior marketing and the first company in Pakistan to
product development manager. install the new Monforts
Employing some 22,000 EcoApplicator with which it has
people, Soorty began as a been achieving very substantial
garment making operation in finishing cost savings.
1983 and expanded into denim
fabric manufacturing just ten Denim Active
years ago. Soorty’s Denim Active concept –
Its denim mill was first which blurs the boundaries
expanded in 2009 followed by between casual wear and
the establishment of a spinning sportswear – had already
mill in 2011. attracted considerable attention in
World of Denim | Issue 6 | 11www.monforts.com
Simply Eco
for Azgard-9
Denim jackets with integrated solar
panels for charging mobile phones as
the wearer is on the move, in addition
to powering decorative LED lights,
have been developed by Azgard-9 We have adopted
all of the processes
“This is a simple and effective way customers, is even requesting
of getting more functionality into rigid fabrics. There’s also much that are efficient at
fabrics,” says head of product
development Muhammad Aamir.
more of an emphasis on dobby
and jacquard designs.”
reducing consumption,
“It ties in with the market’s The denims manufactured including the Monforts
demands for the performance of under Azgard 9’s Eco brand
technical textiles in their denims, meanwhile require 70% less Eco Applicator.
which we are also responding to water, 40% fewer chemicals and
with treatments for water 30% less energy in their Muhammad Aamir
repellency, UV protection and production than conventionally-
advanced moisture management.” finished products.
In terms of trends, he adds that “We have adopted all of the
demand right now is for vintage processes that are efficient at Azgard 9, formed in 1993, is
and open constructions with reducing consumption, including headquartered in Lahore and has
prominent twill lines, and grey the Monforts Eco Applicator,” its manufacturing operations in
casts are very in. says Aamir. “It’s a very good Kasur in Pakistan
“There’s a move to less stretch system in allowing us to employ The company has an extremely
too,” he says. “Whereas last far fewer finishing chemicals by extensive range of different fibre
season we were asked for as applying them accurately to just types, fabric constructions and
much as 80% stretch, now the one side of the fabric and is far finishes which can be expertly
demand is for 30-40% and advanced compared to the usual tailored to individual customer’s
Zara, as one of our major dipping and drying methods.” needs. ■
12 | World of Denim | Issue 6ARISTIC MILLINERS
Crystal Clear for
industry change
Artistic Milliners is the denim manufacturer
behind the G-Star Elwood RFTPi jeans
which are being launched by Dutch brand
G-Star RAW for the Spring/Summer 2018
season and are Cradle-to-Cradle (C2C) Gold
level certified – a first for the sector.
The jeans were developed by In conventional systems,
analyzing each part of the denim Artistic Milliners reports that
design process and exploring indigo dyestuff is stored after the
how to reduce the environmental dyeing process and only around
impact at every step. 20% can be reused due to salt
Together with chemicals leader formation. The company’s Crystal
Dystar, G-Star RAW and Artistic Clear formulation involves pre-
Milliners formulated the cleanest reduced liquid indigo that
indigo technology to date, requires no additional water or development processes through
employing an organic fixing agent salt and allows indigo recovery Cradle-to-Cradle certification.
to result in 70% fewer chemicals, up to 100%. Additionally, there’s “Our new denim fabric and its
no salts and producing no salt by- no need for heating in the indigo revolutionary indigo process will
products during the reduction and fixation process, which means become an open source for the
dyeing process, consequently less energy consumption. rest of the industry to use,” said
saving water and leaving clean G-Star also worked with long- Frouke Bruinsma, corporate
and recyclable water effluent. standing partner Saitex to make responsibility director at G-Star
and wash the garments. By RAW. “We would like to invite
Brilliant shades employing sustainable others to join us towards cleaner
The process creates brilliant technologies, good chemistry and more ethical denim
indigo shades with enhanced and renewable energies, 98% production globally.”
sheen, and is applicable to both of the water will be recycled and
indigo and sulphur dyeing. re-used and the other 2% will be Wider adoption
evaporated, leaving no water to “We are really proud to have
be wasted or discharged into the collaborated with our partners in
local environment. developing the most sustainable
This is perhaps Unwanted components
denim fabric ever made at Artistic
Milliners,” added Artistic Milliners
the most radical Only 100% organic cotton was Director Omer Ahmed. “Together
used and all other components we have pioneered a radical new
change to the indigo not conducive to easy recycling dyeing method which is water and
dyeing process since were removed – rivets and zippers
have been replaced with eco-
salt-free and which we call Crystal
Clear. This is perhaps the most
its industrialisation. finished metal buttons and all radical change to the indigo
labelling and carton packaging is dyeing process since its industrial-
Omer Ahmed, responsibly sourced. isation. Even though this formula
G-Star is now working with is in its infancy we are hopeful that
Artistic Milliners Artistic Milliners to provide open- in due time it will be adopted by
source access to fabric the denim industry at large.“ ■
World of Denim | Issue 6 | 13www.monforts.com Out to celebrate The Denim Pop Up Street was held each evening after Denim PV on Rue du Vertbois in the Paris Marais neighbourhood. Open to the general public as well as show goers, the one-off event celebrated denim culture with a mix of inspired ideas, shopping and participatory workshops held in over a dozen boutiques. To the fore were the collections by avant-garde designers (see page 17) as well a Parisian atelier brands and artists. 14 | World of Denim | Issue 6
DENIM POP UP STREET
World of Denim | Issue 6 | 15www.monforts.com
Inspired by Ray Bradbury’s novel
Farenheit 451, Proêms de Paris set
out to “find the balance between
sublimation and destruction.”
16 | World of Denim | Issue 6AVANT GARDE
I aimed to create
highly innovative
garments using intricate
fabric manipulation
techniques.
Hannah Brabon
Avant Garde approaches
A number of key Monforts customers provided fabrics and worked
on the development of outfits with avant-garde designers for a
special collection that was exhibited at Denim PV in Paris, and also
in the stores of the Denim Pop Up Street held each evening after
the show, on Rue du Vertbois in the city’s Marais neighbourhood.
Advance Denim, Kassim and Textil Pleats normal part of the suit is made
Santanderina all supplied fabrics Swiss designer Eliane Heutschi of from closed flat pleats with the
for the UK designer Hannah the Savoer-fer womenswear fused part having more open
Brabon, whose collections are brand worked with Japan’s Toray pleats that fall with the volume
focused on luxury, sportswear- International and applied the until becoming horizontal.
inspired knitwear. pleating technique that is “This creates a distortion – a
“For my two outfits I aimed to normally used with light and form of elongation that continues
create highly innovative garments feminine fabrics to denim. to open and close in on itself,”
using intricate fabric manipulation “I was inspired by this contrast Eliane said.
techniques,” she said. “I chose to with the thickness of original The cut of the Savoer-fer dress,
work with high-quality materials, denim workwear materials,” she meanwhile, is light and open but
including organic cotton and said. “Pleats in themselves are a its fabric is dense and it floats
Lyocell. The elaborate techniques contradiction, giving form to around the body without
employed reflect the ethos of fabric but hiding body shapes constraining or constricting it
creating lovingly crafted and slow- when applied to garments.”
made fashion. A combination of Her jacket and pants were the Knitwear
bleaching, fraying and knitting result of playing with the lines of a Elanore Guthries’ Knorts brand,
techniques were used.” denim jacket/pant suit – the based in Los Angeles, is also
World of Denim | Issue 6 | 17www.monforts.com
known for handmade denim
knitwear made with the finest
indigo, but discovered new
possibilities through collaborations
with Artistic Milliners and
Kassim Denim.
“Knitwear allows Knorts to create
any texture and silhouette
imaginable, so I appreciated the fact
that machine-woven jacquard
denim can offer similar capabilities,”
Elanore said. “The designs are
inherently complimentary and Pleats are a contradiction, giving form to fabric,
but hiding body shapes when applied to
reminiscent of our design process garments, says Eliane Heutschi of Savoer-fer.
and knitted denim aesthetic.”
Denim from Artistic Milliners was
employed in the Knorts athleisure
outfit on display, and that from
Kassim in an outfit comprising
fisherman’s wading pants and a
matching cropped, button-up shirt.
Afterhomework’s designs are
usually made entirely in small Paris
ateliers – as showcased at the
Denim Pop Up Street – but the Paris
brand worked with the machine-
manufactured denims of Brazil’s
Vicunha in designing silhouettes
inspired by the code of workwear –
from centuries past to modern
times, and from big peasant skirts to
craftsmen’s aprons.
Playing with fire
While there was a notable move
away from the elaborate laser
designs and rips and frays of
previous shows at the Paris show, in
favour of simpler, classic design
elements, Marion Gauban Cammas Denim from Artistic Milliners and Kassim was
and Ulysse Meridjen of Proêms de employed in the knitwear designs of Knorts.
Paris opted to go to the other
extreme with fabrics from Çalık Brazil’s Vicunha contributed denim for
Denim and US Denim Mills. Afterhomework’s designs, which are usually
made entirely in small Paris ateliers.
Their work, the designers explain,
is often inspired by literature.
“We played with fire for our
first silhouette,” they explain.
“We were working on the concept
of dystopia for our previous
collection and this idea was directly
inspired by Ray Bradbury’s novel
Farenheit 451. We wanted to torture
the material, push it to its limits,
deteriorate it while retaining its allure
and feel. Denim is a very robust
material and it was interesting to
find the balance between sublimation
and destruction.” ■
18 | World of Denim | Issue 6ÇALIK
The outer
limits of
lightness
Çalık Denim is promoting its
revolutionary, featherweight
stretch Fly Jean concept by
launching a series of active
leisurewear hybrids. Impossible
lightness, exceptional flexibility,
creamy softness, and shape
retention are some product
features that Fly Jean offers.
“We’ve had a great reaction to our Fly Jean concept,”
said Çiğdem Kaçar, Çalık’s Senior Product Marketing
Executive. “Fly Jean is a new dimension for
athleisure style.”
Çalık’s Red Carpet concept is meanwhile based on
dazzling luxury look fabrics.
“These shiny fabrics are directly reminiscent of
80s disco pants,” said Mrs Kaçar. “Since we are
offering them as ready-to-dye products with different
construction alternatives, it is possible to achieve
assorted looks by piece dyeing in different colours
after garment manufacturing. These articles offer an
unexpected soft hand feel and are very comfortable
inside.”
Çalık Denim was founded in 1987 and today has
an annual production capacity of 42 million metres.
With its integrated manufacturing plant and R&D
centre in Malatya, Turkey, sales and marketing
centre in Istanbul and worldwide sales offices, the
company provides employment to over 1,500 people
and has 427 weaving looms. ■
Fly Jean is a new dimension for athleisure style.
Çiğdem Kaçar, Senior Product Marketing Executive
World of Denim | Issue 6 | 19www.monforts.com
Taking
responsibility
The new Alliance for Responsible Denim
(ARD) has been formed in order to address
two of the key sustainable challenges
relating to denim production and involves
a number of Monforts customers.
In the production of authentic sustainable fabrics by
Spain’s Tavex, the entire process is exhaustively controlled,
with complete traceability of all the materials used.
20 | World of Denim | Issue 6ALLIANCE FOR RESPONSIBLE DENIM
Recover recycled
cotton is the lowest
impact cotton option
available today and
there are immense
impact savings to be
achieved with it.
Hélène Smits of ARD
ARD consists of a core group of impact of denim garment washing buying standard, defining a
Dutch brands along with by developing a new business model and roadmap for
stakeholders and experts from the measurement tool from the the introduction and scaling up of
denim industry and a broad group ground up, drawing on existing post-consumer recycled denim
of international suppliers. garment washing techniques and (PCRD) production.
“It’s unique that we have big conducting pilot trials within the “We believe establishing a
and small denim brands together denim supply chain. preferred buying standard can
with suppliers working on these increase the volume of PCRD and
sustainability issues,” said James Benchmarks further its adoption in the industry,”
Veenhoff from the House of Because benchmarking depends said Veenhoff.
Denim Foundation, that along with on a range of factors, ARD is ARD defines PCRD as a fabric or
Made-By, Circle Economy and the comparing new, improved wash product with a minimum content of
Amsterdam University of Applied recipes with conventional ones so 5% post-consumer fibres and
Sciences established ARD. “It’s that the brands can specifically see urges brands and mills to use it in
the only way to progress and the progress they are making. order to reduce their dependency
change the industry.” Currently, it is difficult to on virgin materials and drive
There are three major ecological determine what is sustainable or impact savings across all areas,
issues facing the denim industry unsustainable in denim garment from electricity to water.
he adds – water, energy and finishing and in some cases ARD’s influence was evident at
chemicals. The use of these alternative technologies to the November 2017 Denim
resources is concentrated at four traditional practices may reduce Première Vision, with Turkey’s
stages of the production process water use but increase energy use. Kilim Denim and Spain’s Tavex
– cotton cultivation, dyeing, fabric ARD believes that defining among the organisation’s members
finishing and garment finishing. measurements and benchmarks of offering PCRD fabrics for
ARD’s focus is on establishing finishing techniques is an Spring/Summer 2019 at the trade
measurements, benchmarks and important first step to improving show.
standards for resource use and the sustainability impact of a denim Cansu Meşegül, sales executive
recycled denim. garment. for Kilim Denim said that her
In one project, it is focusing on A second ARD project involves company’s new Re-Create
improving the environmental developing a preferred industry collection employs the Recover
World of Denim | Issue 6 | 21www.monforts.com
yarns in the weft, with organic says. “They can sometimes
cotton in the warp of the fabrics. contain small imperfections which
In the Remin collection, Tavex You can save up to are not defects but characteristics
offers denim fabrics made with a that naturally occur as a result of
minimum of 30% recycled 15,000 litres of water the mechanical recycling process.
materials, including recycled when you use 1kg of “For denim, Recover yarns are
polyester and Recover. not as strong as virgin equivalent
Recover recycled fibre yarns, which is something to
Upcycling consider in the weaving process
Both companies receive special instead of 1kg of conven- and might also require some
recycled cotton yarns for denim tional dyed cotton. adaptations in dyeing and finishing
from Hilaturas Ferre, based in processes. These are design
Banyeres de Mariola, Spain, which opportunities for brands to tackle.“
began recycling textiles 70 years “With the Alliance for
ago and in 2015 introduced the System. “Recover recycled cotton Responsible denim project, there
Recover Upcycled Textiles System. is the lowest impact cotton is an increased focus on recycled
This is designed as a circular option available today and there denim and it seems more brands
system through which yarns can are immense impact savings to be are becoming interested and
flow for many life-cycles. achieved with it, not only because more mills are developing fabrics
Hilaturas Ferre collects and sorts we limit the use of virgin cotton based on them. This is great start,
textile waste resources from all and the associated impacts, but but we now need to keep the
around the world and upcycles it also because we do not add water momentum going and actually
into new Recover yarn via or chemicals to the cotton to get see this translated into the
cutting/shredding and spinning. the colour. Together this means collections of the brands.“
The company ensures the quality you can save up to 15,000 litres of “The active pull is only there
and colour of its Recover yarns is water when you use 1kg of from front-running brands at
consistent, replicable, and free of Recover recycled fibre instead of present, but I think many others
harmful substances through 1kg of conventional dyed cotton.” would go for it if the access was
optimised waste management easy via their regular channels –
systems, strict testing and certifi- Considerations and of course also when the
cation policies, and its proprietary Recover recycled cotton, quality and price is acceptable.
ColorBlend process. however, is not the same as virgin This is exactly what ARD, as a
“There is around 92 million tons cotton, she adds, since due to the united front, is hoping to achieve.
of textile waste generated each mechanical recycling process, the Together, rather than in isolation,
year and there’s a real need to try fibres are a bit shorter and the we can create the demand, the
and introduce more recycled yarns are not as consistent. drive and the development. We
fibres,” said Hélène Smits of ARD, “We advise our customers to are doing this by setting short-
who also promotes the Ferre take this into consideration when term goals with our brands for
Recover Upcycled Textiles choosing Recover yarns,” Hélène long-term impact.” ■
Our new
Re-Create collection
employs the Recover
yarns in the weft, with
organic cotton in the
warp of the fabrics.
Cansu Meşegül,
sales executive
for Kilim Denim
22 | World of Denim | Issue 6TCE CORPORATION
World’s first
Monforts Eco
Denim Line
TCE, Vietnam’s biggest denim producer, celebrated the
first year of its Eco Line installation achieving close
fabric control and significant energy savings benefits.
TCE Corporation was the world’s
first denim producer to install a
Monforts Eco Denim Line, and
after a full year of production is
now able to evaluate the
advantages in terms of production
and energy and water savings.
The company is the largest
producer of denim in Vietnam,
and one of the largest in Asia.
Founded in South Korea in
1956, TCE relocated its entire
production to Vietnam in 2014,
and now produces only denim at
its TCE Vina Denim mill, which
occupies a 110,000m² site two
hours outside of Hanoi.
TCE exports 100% of its
production overseas, with Europe,
at about 45% being the largest
market, followed by the USA at
30%, and Japan and Korea the
other main export destinations.
Chief executive officer Stanley
Hwang says that production
ranges from lightweight to
heavyweight denim, in the range TCE Chief Executive Officer Stanley
of 4 to 14 ounces. Hwang (left) and Production General
Manager Ku Myung Soo (right)
Critical point 1996, a machine that is still to operate. We have complete
“The critical point with denim is in full operation.“ control of the shrinkage, and we
consistency and shrinkage,” he “We then progressed to the need one or two less staff to
says. “The greatest benefit of the second-generation machines, operate the machine.”
Eco Line is that it allows the fine where we can control the shrinkage The Eco Line was
control of fabric shrinkage.“ but it can be complicated.“ manufactured by Monforts in
“We are a long-time user of “With the Eco Line we can see Germany and supplied via Peja
Monforts equipment, having exactly what is going on in the Vietnam, Monforts represen-
installed our first machine in production line, and it is very easy tative for Vietnam.
World of Denim | Issue 6 | 23www.monforts.com Savings used in a traditional stretching unit. Consistent The Eco Line is engineered to This consequently saves on the “We were the first denim save on water and energy usage. volume of water needed to producer in Korea to use Monforts At the front of the machine is generate the steam, and also saves machines,” says Mr Hwang. the Eco Applicator which applies on the amount of energy required “Monforts for us is very safe. So the chemicals, replacing a to convert the water to steam. although other companies conventional padder and applying Mr Hwang says that TCE is approached us when we were less moisture to the fabric, saving on both water and planning to expand production, reducing drying needs and electricity. Water is taken from the there was no doubt on our part therefore energy consumption. public supply, for better quality that we would install a new After this stage the Thermex and convenience than a well, and Monforts machine.“ Hotflue Chamber generates the savings are in the region of 20 to “The consistency we achieve necessary moisture and 30%. Electricity savings are with Monforts is perfect. temperature for making the around 10%. We love Monforts!” denim stretchable, whilst incorpo- TCE had started to make denim Production general manager Ku rating a soft stretching of the in Korea in 1969, and was Myung Soo says that the fabric fabric using many rollers probably the third Asian producer passes in one continuous run, instead of only the one or two to do so. through the Eco Applicator, then 24 | World of Denim | Issue 6
TCE CORPORATION
through the Thermex, and finally to coincide with TCE’s 60th garment manufacturing to provide
through the shrinkage process. anniversary last year, and which a full package for buyers.
“There are three main stages,” boosted output from 1.5 million Mr Ku explains that the
he says, “and the fine-control yards a month to 3.5 million company produces its own rope
system allows us to closely yards, the biggest production dyeing machines, the entire
monitor the entire process.“ capacity in Vietnam. The Eco Line design, manufacturing and instal-
“Monforts sent an engineer from throughput is 1.5 million yards. lation of the machines being
Germany to install the machine There is anticipation that the carried out by the TCE team.
and train the staff, and we have demand for Vietnam denim will There are now five rope-dyeing
continual backup from the Peja increase substantially when the machines to cope with the new
team, with who we work closely.“ European Union Free Trade production capacity, the latest
“Our production staff find the Agreement with the country having 22 dips to provide the dark
Eco Line very easy indeed to comes into effect, which is indigo colour that is demanded by
work with.” expected to be at the beginning certain sectors of the market.
of 2018. TCE has a total workforce of
Anniversary TCE is additionally around 1,800, and works 24 hours
Investment in the Eco Line came implementing its own vertically a day, usually six days per week
as part of an important expansion integrated facility including but seven when necessary. ■
World of Denim | Issue 6 | 25www.monforts.com
First for Santanderina
with Refibra
Spain’s Santanderina has become the first denim manufacturer
to turn Refibra – the new Tencel fibre made from a pulp of cotton
scraps left over from fabric cutting operations – into denims.
Santanderina already has a strong
partnership with the Tencel fibre
maker Lenzing and indeed, many
of its denims are composed of
100% Tencel. Once woven, the
Tencel denims are enzyme washed
in a chemical-free process taking
only between 20-30 minutes.
“Tencel provides countless
benefits in appearance, with an
extremely high degree of comfort,
but most importantly is a
sustainable fibre based on wood
that can play a big role in
introducing the concept of the
circular economy to textiles,” says
Santanderina Creative Director
Jordi Ballus. “We are very strong
on ecological finishing concepts
with our Ecolandye, Naturdye and
Vital formulations, and our high
capacity production system is
both versatile and self-sufficient.
Our four plants are equipped with
state-of-the-art textile machinery,
naturally including finishing lines
Lenzing worked closely with Santanderina supplied by Monforts. Refibra is a
during the initial development of Refibra fibre
further step in moving towards
circular production.”
Recycling
In general, the recycling options
for cellulosics like Tencel are
currently all mechanical, such as
re-spinning or needlepunching,
explains Christian Weilach, a
specialist at Lenzing in Austria.
“These processes, however,
cause significant fibre
degradation, making the fibres
only suitable for being turned into
low-grade nonwovens such as
wipers and insulation, or shoddy.”
26 | World of Denim | Issue 6SANTANDERINA
We are very strong
on ecological finishing
concepts and our high
capacity production
system is both versatile
and self-sufficient.
Creative Director,
Jordi Ballus
By contrast, Refibra is a clean different fibre morphology, higher Lenzing and Inditex are now
chemical solution based on crystallinity and lower porosity.” working together to identify raw
turning the cotton scraps into pulp materials suitable for recycling prior
and then feeding them into the Collaboration to garment making, collect the
closed loop Lyocell process to Establishing the Refibra waste during production, further
produce fibres that can have a programme, he adds, has develop logistics and supply chain
much more valuable second life. involved collaboration across and provide mutual feedback on
“There are considerable what is a very fragmented textile how to improve processes.
volumes of pre-consumer waste value chain and required “We are now planning to extend
available and in general it’s a large significant collaboration and the loop for post-consumer waste
batch of the same material we can transparency which is paramount but this is much more complex,”
work with,” Weilach says. “There for efficient recycling. Weilach says. “There are labels,
are still, however, special charac- Lenzing has notably teamed up sewing yarns and elastics to be
teristics to be considered, since with Inditex, headquartered in separated and you are always work-
cotton pulp is not the same as Arteixo, Spain and one of the ing with blends, and with no in-
wood in terms of its molecular world’s biggest fashion groups, sights into the history of the mixed
weight distribution, the lower with 7,200 stores in 93 global batches. Collaboration will certainly
content of hemi cellulose, a markets worldwide. be the key to moving forward.” ■
Cleaning the Oceans
As an active partner in the Upcycling the Oceans project,
Santanderina is also introducing Seaqual high quality
recycled polyester yarns into its denims.
These are made from materials such as PET bottles and
other plastic captured from the Mediterranean of the
coast of Levante in eastern Spain by voluntary fishermen
who are part of the project, which was initiated by the
Ecoalf Foundation in September 2015.
Santanderina has established a responsible and fully-
traceable production process for turning carefully-selected
and graded amounts of this waste into its Seaqual yarns.
At the weaving phase, Seaqual polyester yarns are
blended with other sustainable fibres including Tencel,
organic, recycled or BCI cotton and recovered linen.
The resulting denim fabrics are then treated with
ecological dyes and finishes in the latest water and
energy-saving processes.
World of Denim | Issue 6 | 27www.monforts.com
Catching up
on the laundry
Sustainability is at the top of the agenda
for Karachi-headquartered Rajby
Industries, which with a 10,000-strong We are at an
workforce has a monthly production of advanced stage in our
3.2 million metres of denim and 1.3 fabric manufacturing in
million finished garments. terms of sustainability –
“There is simply no room for “We have made great strides in with the latest
companies who are not adopting minimising our water usage and technology, including
the latest sustainable processing recycling the water in our fabric
techniques,” says the company’s finishing operations and now lines from Monforts.
head of marketing and promotion want to do the same in garment
Adnan Feroz. “We are at an manufacturing,” Adnan says.
advanced stage in our fabric
Adnan Feroz and
manufacturing in terms of sustain- Challenge Hasnain Lilani of Rajby.
ability – with the latest “Water use will be the biggest
technology, including lines from challenge of our lifetimes,” adds
Monforts – and are now looking at head of design Hasnain Lilani. “We
what we can do in terms of the also generate our own power and between the brands and the textile
laundry for our garment making have solar power and natural gas, industry. It’s like we’re just waking
up department.” and heat recovery is also very up to it and have got a glimpse of
There are new technologies in important to us. All of these what’s possible. We need to
the laundry area, he adds, that will initiatives are not about marketing embed traceability along the
allow the company’s garment but about moving nearer to supply chain right back to where
manufacturing to be as eco- closing the loop. That will take the fibres are sourced. Everybody
efficient as its fabric manufacturing. ongoing combined efforts needs to be sharing.” ■
28 | World of Denim | Issue 6Positive
Image: © Ian Allenden | Dreamstime.com
influencers
Generation Z – young people born between
the mid-1990s to mid-2000s – have used the
internet since a young age, and they are
generally comfortable with technology and
with interacting on social media. Pascal Montfort of REC Trends
In his talk at Denim PV in Paris, The models in its ads have Generation Z to the 1960s.
‘Denim through the Eyes of unibrows, mouths full of braces, “The 1990s is the new 1960s.”
Generation Z’, Pascal Montfort of big ears or crossed eyes but are • ‘Eco friendly’ is not a brand
the REC Trends marketing all stunning in their own ways. value but expected as a
agency made a wide range of Unconventional models and minimum. Monki is a brand
observations on appealing to this artists such as Arvida Byström which knows how to promote
consumer group via successful and Chloe Wise are reinforcing this well. “Wash your clothes
brand campaigns, including: this idea. Go with what you have, differently,” it advises.
• Influencers are more than ever even if it isn’t ideal, is the “Sometimes the lazy option is the
a crucial part of successful positive message, and positive most eco option.”
branding. The high-end brand messages resonate most with • There are right and wrong
Fear of God’s denim collections these consumers. ways of incorporating all of
sell out immediately at around • Gender is an ‘old school’ vision the above elements into
$1,000 per pair of jeans, while – as exemplified in campaigns campaigns – Generation Z does
bringing no particular innovation such as that for Calvin Klein not like to be patronised.
to the market. The endorsement starring the gangster rapper • The next generation will be
of high-profile celebrities such as Young Thug wearing a dress. even more media savvy and self-
Kanye West, Rihanna and Justin The general trend is a move from aware. They are “too late to be
Bieber have contributed signifi- unisex to post-gender. young”. CoCo is a Japanese
cantly to this demand. • Hip hop is the new rock and Instagram modelling sensation
• Everything is normal. Diesel’s roll, with 1990s rap nostalgia as with over 53,000 followers. “She
highly successful ‘Go with the relevant as the Beatles and Elvis has discovered by herself how to
Flaw’ campaign plays with the were to the 1990s. There is no be an influencer,” Montfort said.
idea that ‘flawless is forgettable’. real link in the minds of She is six years old. ■
World of Denim | Issue 6 | 29www.monforts.com
www.monforts.com
Back to nature
As a 70-year-old company, which now has
its manufacturing in Changzhou, China,
Hong Kong-headquartered Black Peony
makes full use of a Monforts heat setting
range to meet denim market demands.
With an annual output of 60 Soft touch comfort
million metres of denim and For Alfred Cheung, assistant Customers and
eight million pairs of fully manager of development and
finished jeans, the company’s merchandising, soft touch denims consumers alike now
integrated manufacturing plant for comfort are currently in high expect eco-friendly
also produces some 21,000 demand from buyers, with not as
tons of yarn, all complying with much emphasis on stretch as has credentials.
ISO9001 quality management been the case in the past two or
and Oeko-Tex 100 standards. three years.
The company’s denims are “There’s a move back to the
Alfred Cheung
exported to over 50 countries, natural,” he says, “and of Black Peony
with key markets being the customers and consumers alike
United States, Japan, Russia now expect eco-friendly
and Australia. credentials. We are employing recycled cotton and polyester
whenever possible, and our
finishing processes are optimised
for achieving savings in the water
and chemicals we employ.”
Black Peony’s innovations were
extensively featured within the
Denim Trends showcase at Denim
PV, including the soft and creamy
fabrics achieved through blends
of lyocell, recycled elastane,
cotton and linen and looser and
wider denim styles employing
cupro and viscose. ■
30 | World of Denim | Issue 6The light fantastic US Denim can always be relied upon to come up with an intriguing denim concept or two at Denim PV shows. In the past these have included jeans incorporating spider silk and others with poultry feathers. At the latest show, the company’s eye-catching display referenced the Day-Glo fad of the 1970s, with the self-illuminated denim designs of the Cosmic collection. These have been created by building florescence actually into yarns, rather than as a coating as in the past. US Denim’s Spring-Summer 2019 Authenticity Collection meanwhile demonstrates how new technologies are allowing dramatic improvements to be made to denim, while retaining its iconic characteristics. World of Denim | Issue 6 | 31
Denim 4.0 by Monforts
Proven success.
THINKING AHEAD
FOR SUSTAINABLE SOLUTIONS
The Monforts range combinations for denim finishing are now even more cost-efficient and
eco-friendly: The Monforts ECOApplicator is now used for liquor application.
Drying, stretching and skewing functions for the denim fabric are performed by a modified
Functionalized
Thermex-Thermo-Stretch unit. This configuration allows fabric speeds of up to
40 m/min to be achieved with 14.5 oz/yd2 denim on the ”single rubber” version.
The ”double rubber” version comprises two compressive shrinkage units and two felt
calenders in line.
Together with the innovative Thermex stretching unit,
fabric speeds of up to 80 m/min can thus be achieved
with 14.5 oz/yd2 denim.
On both range versions, the denim fabric is stretched
and skewed far more gently than with conventional
range combinations. Ask our denim technologists.
We will be happy to advise you.
A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG
Germany | A Member of CHTC Fong’s Group
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