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SPRING 2017

HARVARD REVIEW OF LATIN AME

  BEAUTY
BEAUTY HARVARD REVIEW OF LATIN AME - Harvard University
MUSIC
BEAUTY
EDITOR’S LETTER BY JUNE CAROLYN ERLICK

The Diversity of Beauty
    I remember so vividly the first time someone called me “gordita.” It was while I traveled          VOLUME XVI NO.3

on a clumsily converted cattle boat pitching in the waves from Cuba to Canada in 1970. I was
                                                                                                       David Rockefeller Center
                                                                                                       for Latin American Studies
seasick all the time. Yet I remember the emotion of shock at that word more than I recall how
                                                                                                       CELEBRATING THE LIFE
I felt about my sickness. Of course, I know now that the Cuban who called me “gordita” meant
                                                                                                       AND LEGACY OF DAVID ROCKEFELLER
“my little pleasantly plump friend” and probably wanted to console me. I heard “fatty.” I cried.
                                                                                                       Director
    Ironically, I’ve always felt a bit more in home in Latin America than in the United States
                                                                                                       Brian Farrell
because I’m five feet tall and well, maybe, a little pleasantly plump. So when Álvaro Jarrin and
                                                                                                       Executive Director
I started to put together this issue of beauty, I was perhaps just a little bit surprised about how
                                                                                                       Ned Strong
many people wanted to change things about themselves: their noses, breasts, muscles, skin
color, hair, weight and even ethnicity. I was not alone.                                               ReVista
    I cheered when Alicia Machado, a former Miss Universe and telenovela actress, fought back          Editor-in-Chief
when now-President Donald Trump insulted her about her weight—and battled again when the               June Carolyn Erlick

candidate did it again via Twitter. That would certainly lose him the election, I thought.             Copy Editor
    If North Americans are held to an impossible beauty standards, Latin Americans are often           Anita Safran

served a double whammy, since their standards are often determined by the tall blonde North            Publication Interns
American ones. And just as I’ll never be tall and skinny, Latin American forms of beauty are cer-      Isabel Espinosa
                                                                                                       Sylvie Stoloff
tainly their own—a fact that is increasingly recognized and celebrated.
    Of course, Latin America is known for its beauty contests and famously stunning actress-           Design
                                                                                                       Jane Simon Design
es—think Sofia Vergara, Sonia Braga, Salma Hayek and Dolores del Rio. And those beauty
contests and movie roles helped shaped standards and images other than the skinny blonde.              Printer
                                                                                                       P+R Publications
    Beauty is a fact of everyday life in Latin America, from the manicures (for both men and
women), the stylish clothes (I often wondered how Colombian university students could make             Contact Us
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jeans seem so very elegant), and the infinite varieties of hair care. A recent article in The New
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York Times recounted that a local singer in Northeast Brazil subsidized trips to the beauty            Telephone: 617-495-5428
parlor for parents of Zika babies, intended as a source of comfort for stressed mothers.
                                                                                                       Subscriptions, Back Copies and Comments
    Beauty is business, goods and services that urge people to keep on purchasing. Yet the             jerlick@fas.harvard.edu
quest for some idealized type of beauty is not just a matter of vanity or even identity for many
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Latin Americans; it’s a ticket to a better job, a hope for higher class status or an investment in a   revista.drclas.harvard.edu
beauty contest or, more unfortunately, a position in the drug trade.
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    Not too long ago in Bucaramanga, Colombia, a school nurse fretted to me that a lot of her          ReVista, the Harvard Review of Latin America
poorest students were refusing to eat (she didn’t use the word “anorexia”) because they hoped
                                                                                                       Copyright © 2017 by the President and
to be chosen for a reality show and make a lot of money.                                               Fellows of Harvard College.
    The articles in this issue cover a wide range of topics, showing how Latin Americans have          ISSN 1541—1443
been shaped by concepts of beauty and, in turn, have shaped those concepts. Beauty often               ReVista is printed on recycled stock.

implies conformity, but as you will see in these pages, it is also resistance. It is the power of an
indigenous beauty queen who speaks out against massacres. It is the dignity of the elegantly
dressed cholitas who remind us that beauty is not just skinny and white. It is the effort of those
held in clandestine jail cells to maintain their humanness through fashion shows.
    I’ve long been fascinated by the subject of beauty in Latin America, yet it took the knowl-        This issue of ReVista is made possible
edge, inspiration, collaboration and dogged work of Álvaro Jarrin, a professor at Holy Cross           through generous support of
College who specializes in beauty-related topics, for the two of us to create this issue of            Santander Universities Global Division.
ReVista. A special thanks to you, Álvaro, for making this ReVista what it is!

2 ReVista   SPRING 2017                                                                                                                        PHOTO BY
BEAUTY HARVARD REVIEW OF LATIN AME - Harvard University
HARVARD REVIEW OF LATIN AMERICA

                                                                                                      SPRING 2017
                                                                                                      VOLUME XVI NO. 3

                                                                                                      Published by the David Rockefeller Center
                                                                                                      for Latin American Studies
                                                                                                      Harvard University

Top of the page photos clockwise from top left by: Ricardo Bohorquez, Yayo Lopez, Luis Miranda

BEAUTY
FIRST TAKE                                                                                            BUILDING BRIDGES
The Politics of Beauty by Alvaro Jarrin				 2                                                         Wolf Chase in Chaco
                                                                                                      by Rebecca Greenberg                                   73
BODY IMAGE AND THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY
Globalizing Latin American Beauty by Geoffrey Jones			                                           10   BOOK TALK
The Culture of Skinniness by Lucrecia Ramírez Restrepo  		                                       15   Design and Natural Resource Extraction
Should I Eat the Chocolate Cake? by Renée S. Scott			                                            17   A Review by Anthony Bebbington                         74
Beauty Weighs in Argentina by Melissa Maldonado-Salcedo			                                       21   Democracy and Party-Building
                                                                                                      A Review by Scott Mainwaring                           76
BEAUTY IN TIMES OF REPRESSION                                                                         The Borders of Dominicanidad
Mayan Queens by Rodrigo Abd                    			 24                                                 A Review by Pedro Reina-Pérez                          78
Maya Queens at the Microphone by Betsy Konefal		      26
Beauty in Places of Horror by Barbara Sutton 				 29
Beasts and Beauty in Colombia by Michael Stanfield			 33

MASCULINITY AND BEAUTY
Peruvian Beauty by Norma Fuller				 38                                                                ONLINE
Technologies of Gender by Lauren E. Gulbas 				 41                                                    Look for more content online at
Building Muscles in Rio’s Fitness Clubs by Cesar Sabino 			 44                                        revista.drclas.harvard.edu

CHOLITAS AND BEYOND
Cholitas: The Revenge of a Generation by Delphine Blast 			 48
The Queen of Sheep by Cristina García Navas 				 52
Peruvian Pishtacos by Caroline Yezer				 54
Performing Race and Gender in the Andes by Mary Elena Wilhoit		 56

BLACK IS BEAUTIFUL                                                                                                            ON THE COVER
Blackness and Beauty in Ecuador By O. Hugo Benavides 			 60
                                                                                                                              BEAUTY
Contesting Beauty by Elizabeth Hordge-Freeman 				 66                                                                         © Delphine Blast I hanslucas
Sensual Not Beautiful by Jasmine Mitchell 			            70                                                                   www.delphineblast.com

                                                                                                                    REVISTA.DRCLAS.HARVARD.EDU      ReVista 1
BEAUTY HARVARD REVIEW OF LATIN AME - Harvard University
FIRST TAKE

The Politics of Beauty                          By ALVARO JARRIN

2 ReVista   SPRING 2017   PHOTO BY YAYO LÓPEZ/OJOS PROPIOS/ILAS, COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY PORTRAIT IN LIMA HISTORICAL CENTER,
                                                                                                                   PHOTO1993
                                                                                                                          BY
BEAUTY HARVARD REVIEW OF LATIN AME - Harvard University
BEAUTY

WHEN ONE TALKS TO PEOPLE IN LATIN               were delighted with the results. Although    she was willing to endure any sacrifices.
AMERICA   about beauty, it is never simply      Solange realized that she would have to go   Echoing the poet Vinicius de Moraes, she
about vanity, self-care or individual           through many hoops, and she would be         said that “beauty is fundamental,” but
consumption. Beauty in Latin America            one more name on a very long waiting list,   she added a very practical reason for its
always seems to have larger implications,
inducing hopes for upward mobility,
invoking national ideals of beauty, or
even suggesting beauty as a standard
for citizenship. To observers of Latin
America, beauty can tell us much about
this region’s ongoing inequalities and the
way the body’s attractiveness, or lack of it,
acquires sociopolitical meanings.
   Let me begin, however, with the
story of Solange, whom I met at the
reception area of a public hospital in Belo
Horizonte, Brazil. Solange (I’m not using
her real name to protect confidentiality)

In Latin America,
beauty has so much
meaning to women
because it is a bodily
sign that condenses the
race, class and gender
inequalities they deal
with on a daily basis, a
“dictatorship of beauty”
that determines which
bodies have value and
which bodies do not.
was there to see if her nose job would be
finally approved by the medical team that
oversaw plastic surgery procedures. She
told me that having a different nose was
a dream of hers since she was a teenager,
but until recently she had believed plastic
surgery was a luxury only the wealthy
could afford. A few months ago, however,
she had been encouraged to seek out this
hospital by two friends of hers who also
worked in retail. Those two friends had
been able to get approval for a free breast
lift and a free tummy tuck, fully covered
by the universal healthcare system, and

Gisele Bündchen; PHOTO WIKIPEDIA COMMONS                                                         REVISTA.DRCLAS.HARVARD.EDU   ReVista 3
BEAUTY HARVARD REVIEW OF LATIN AME - Harvard University
BEAUTY

Left: Mariquita Palma Nonones, el Guayabo, Ica, Peru, 2016. Right: Bertha Javier Durand, Huancayo, Junin, Peru, 2016.

importance, “in this country, one needs            she might be able to find a better job than        obstruct her respiratory airways. The
a good appearance to find good jobs.”              retail sales, which paid very little.              surgeon told Solange that the tomography
It did not bother her, she assured me,                 When Solange’s name was called, she            results by themselves were not enough
that she would be studied by the medical           allowed me to witness the consultation             evidence to justify the surgery, but if
residents who carried out surgeries at             she had with a young plastic surgeon,              she consistently complained of difficulty
this hospital, because it represented              still completing his medical residency.            breathing through her nose, he could
her small contribution towards making              She handed over an envelope with the               get her an expedited approval—her
Brazilian plastic surgery “number one in           results of a tomography this doctor had            story had to remain consistent when she
the world.” With her new, slimmer nose,            requested during a previous visit, and             booked a time for the surgery, and when
Solange claimed, she would suffer less             which confirmed that Solange had a very            she checked in at the hospital. A little
discrimination while seeking work, and             slightly deviated septum, which did not            while later the surgeon explained to me

4 ReVista   SPRING 2017                                                                       PHOTOS BY YAYO LÓPEZ/OJOS PROPIOS/ILAS, COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY
BEAUTY HARVARD REVIEW OF LATIN AME - Harvard University
FIRST TAKE

Left: Alicia Huamán Quisani, Chinchero, Cuzco, Peru, 2016; Right: Elizabeth Ramos Durand, Huaro, Cuzco,Peru, 2016.

that Brazil’s universal healthcare system         to perform the aesthetic surgeries that           pursuit of beauty. When one talks to
would only cover plastic surgeries that           were valuable in private medical practice.        patients and to surgeons, however, two
addressed a demonstrated health need,             Solange’s case was valuable to him because        different explanations emerge for why
but aesthetic surgeries were routinely            it would allow him to learn how to do             beauty matters. Low-income patients
approved by relabeling them as medically          corrective surgery on what he described           like Solange invariably invoke “good
necessary reconstructive surgeries. If the        as a “negroid nose,” a condition that he          appearance” as central to any hope of
hospital administrators were aware of this        said was typical among the racially-mixed         upward mobility in society—beauty
informal practice, they turned a blind eye        Brazilian population.                             is imagined as providing new job
to it, because they knew it was important            In Brazil, the interests of low-income         opportunities, opening doors that were
for patients who desired beauty and for           patients and surgeons-in-training                 formerly closed, and guaranteeing, in
medical residents who needed to learn             intersect on the operating table in the           general, that a person will be treated

                                                                                                         REVISTA.DRCLAS.HARVARD.EDU   ReVista 5
BEAUTY HARVARD REVIEW OF LATIN AME - Harvard University
BEAUTY

Left: Doña Ursula, Ursula Ventura Chapoñan, Mórrope, Lambayeque, Peru, 2015; Right: Jhaine Huamán Pulquín, La Jalca Grande, Amazonas, Peru, 2015.

fairly in society. The concern for beauty        in grueling jobs. In Brazil, as in general       their discipline has a larger, loftier goal
allows these patients to complain about          in Latin America, beauty has so much             of improving the Brazilian population.
the many ways they feel Brazilian society        meaning to women because it is a bodily          The plastic surgeons I interviewed in
treats people differently based on their         sign that condenses the race, class and          Brazil believe beauty standards to be
appearance—beauty’s blessings seem to            gender inequalities they deal with on            universal, to be objectively verifiable, and
simply be bestowed on the rich, but are          a daily basis, a “dictatorship of beauty”        to have meaning not only for individuals
denied to those with wider noses, those          that determines which bodies have value          but for the nation as a whole. They
with ugly teeth, those women whose labor         and which bodies do not. Plastic surgery         imagine their surgical prowess as able
as mothers take a toll on their bodies,          seems an acceptable risk in comparison           to fix the “mistakes” caused by too much
or those workers whose bodies are                to the abject threat of ugliness.                racial mixture in Brazil, and they exalt
marked by the long hours spent per day               For plastic surgeons, on the other hand,     women with clear European ancestry,

6 ReVista   SPRING 2017                                                                    PHOTO BY YAYO LÓPEZ/OJOS PROPIOS/ILAS, COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY
BEAUTY HARVARD REVIEW OF LATIN AME - Harvard University
Left: Lizbeth Quizpe, Chinchero, Cuzco, Peru, 2016; Right: Luanda del Carmen Palma Ballumbrosio. El Carmen, Ica, Peru, 2016.

like the supermodel Gisele Bündchen,           Brazilian population. It was this eugenic       surgery.
as beauty ideals for all Brazilian women.      legacy within plastic surgery that allowed         I expand on this theme in my
The desire for whiteness expressed by          the most famous plastic surgeon in Brazil,      forthcoming book, The Biopolitics
plastic surgeons is not accidental—plastic     Ivo Pitanguy, to argue that the poor            of Beauty, but my purpose here in
surgery has a long history in Brazil, and      should also be granted the gift of beauty,      contrasting the surgeons’ medical
was first celebrated as a medical tool by      and to gain state backing to expand access      discourse to patients’ understandings
Brazilian eugenicists like Renato Kehl,        to plastic surgery within public hospitals.     of beauty is to showcase the manifold,
who in the early 20th century equated          A more beautiful citizenry, the logic went,     overlapping meanings of beauty within
beautification with hygiene, imagining         would be rid of its more ugly, criminal         the Latin American landscape. While
a future in which racial difference and        elements, and plastic surgeons would heal       dominant discourses about beauty in
ugliness would be eradicated from the          the wounds of urban violence through            Latin America tend to reassert the region’s

                                                                                                     REVISTA.DRCLAS.HARVARD.EDU   ReVista 7
BEAUTY HARVARD REVIEW OF LATIN AME - Harvard University
BEAUTY

                                                                                                   to keep those aesthetic hierarchies in place,
                                                                                                   and they do not remain unchallenged.
                                                                                                   The Afro-Brazilian movement has
                                                                                                   increasingly made efforts to push for
                                                                                                   more diversity in the modeling and
                                                                                                   advertising industries, demanding that
                                                                                                   black bodies be recognized as beautiful
                                                                                                   beyond the sexualized stereotype of the
                                                                                                   mulatta. Indigenous beauty pageants all
                                                                                                   over the region attempt to recognize not
                                                                                                   only a different bodily aesthetic but also a
                                                                                                   new form of belonging in the nation that
                                                                                                   does not erase their indigenous values
                                                                                                   or require assimilation into a mestizo
                                                                                                   majority. Transgender beauty practices
                                                                                                   in Latin America open up spaces for
                                                                                                   non-gender normative bodies to claim
                                                                                                   recognition within highly transphobic
                                                                                                   societies. Beauty is not simply skin deep,
                                                                                                   but is rather a more profound negotiation
                                                                                                   of the boundary between those who can
                                                                                                   claim to be ideal citizens and those who
                                                                                                   are still regarded as second-class citizens.
                                                                                                       The articles in this issue of ReVista will
The tension, between a rigid beauty and an unruly                                                  address the myriad meanings of beauty in
                                                                                                   several Latin American countries, and will
beauty, and the messy grey areas in between, is what                                               tackle a wide variety of topics, including
makes studying beauty in Latin America such a                                                      but not limited to beauty pageants, plastic
                                                                                                   surgery, masculinity, afro-aesthetics,
complex but fascinaitng endeavor.                                                                  trans beauty practices, the cosmetic
                                                                                                   industry, eating disorders and the political
race, class and gender hierarchies,              Beauty is a political project in Brazil,          meanings of fat. June Carolyn Erlick and
especially those backed by the knowledge      and I would argue it is a political project          I sought contributors that were attuned
of “experts” like plastic surgeons, the       in all of Latin America. The body’s                  to the ways that race, gender, class and
on-the-ground experiences of what is          aesthetic value becomes the battleground             nation are intertwined in the production
beautiful or attractive are always more       upon which citizenship is crafted. The               and performance of beauty, and which
unruly and more complex, because they         modeling, advertising and beauty                     understood beauty as a window into larger
are shaped by popular culture and local,      pageant industries, for instance, have               political and social processes. Beauty has
immediate understandings of beauty.           long reproduced unrealistic standards                only recently become a scholarly object of
The very same plastic surgery, such as        of beauty in Latin America that do not               inquiry in Latin American studies, and the
Solange’s nose job, can be simultaneously     reflect the region’s diversity—pick up any           topic is fertile for more than one issue,
described as a form of empowerment            fashion magazine or look at any television           but we hope that this collection begins an
and disempowerment, because it gives          ad or televised beauty pageant anywhere              important conversation regarding why, as
Solange a reason to fight her experience      in Latin America, and it is light-skinned            Vinicius de Moraes and Solange claimed,
of racial discrimination in the job market,   men and women who dominate those                     beauty is fundamental.
but also allows her plastic surgeon to        spaces, while indigenous and black
reassert that “negroid noses” are by          features remain conspicuously absent.                Alvaro Jarrín is Assistant Professor
definition inferior and in need of surgical   In Brazil, modeling scouts specifically              of Anthropology at College of the Holy
correction. This tension, between a rigid     hunt for new talents in the regions of the           Cross. His research focuses on Brazilian
beauty and an unruly beauty, and the          country that were populated by German                medicine and its relationship to sociopo-
messy grey areas in between, is what          and Polish immigrants, assuming white                litical understandings of the body. His
makes studying beauty in Latin America        beauty is inherently superior and “sells”            book, The Biopolitics of Beauty, will be
such a complex but fascinating endeavor.      products locally and abroad. It takes work           published this summer.

8 ReVista   SPRING 2017                              PHOTO, ABOVE, LUIS MIRANDA/OJOS PROPIOS/ILAS, COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY. OPPOSITE PAGE, CARLOS SEBASTIÁN.
BODY IMAGE AND THE
  BUSINESS OF BEAUTY

Geoffrey Jones Globalizing Latin American Beauty • Lucrecia Ramírez Restrepo The Culture of Skinniness
Renée S. Scott Should I Eat the Chocolate Cake? • Melissa Maldonado-Salcedo Beauty Weighs in Argentina

                                                                          REVISTA.DRCLAS.HARVARD.EDU   ReVista 9
BEAUTY

Globalizing Latin American Beauty
The Making of a Giant Business                         By GEOFFREY JONES

BEAUTY SEEMS TO MATTER A LOT IN LATIN                                                      Imagined, every known human society in
America. Whenever I arrive in the region       The whiteness of                            history has used beauty products. Human
I am struck by the disproportionate                                                        preferences for adornment and cosmetics
number of attractive and stylish women
                                               the emergent Latin                          were in part shaped by religious beliefs
and men who seem to be just walking            American beauty                             and prevailing medical knowledge. More
around. I am always even more taken                                                        fundamentally, consumption was probably
aback by airport bookstalls crammed with
                                               culture was evident                         driven by biological desires to attract and
magazines devoted to plastic surgery and       in beauty contests, in                      reproduce. Throughout history, beauty
the celebration of all things beautiful. And                                               products were made in people’s homes, or
then there are the countless posters and
                                               which pale skins were                       in small batches by craftsmen. Most people
billboards advertising beauty accessible       exclusively featured.                       had neither time nor money to devote to
to all.                                                                                    beauty. Beauty was also a local matter—
    There is plenty of less anecdotal                                                      standards of beauty varied enormously
evidence too that beauty is big business.                                                  among geographies, as well as over time.
According to the industry database                                                             The advent of modern industry and
Euromonitor, Brazil is now the fourth                                                      modern marketing in the 19th century
biggest market for beauty products in the                                                  changed everything. Beauty became a
world, after the United States, China and                                                  business. Skin creams, cosmetics and
Japan. Mexico was ranked seventh and                                                       perfumes began to be made in factories.
Argentina sixteenth.                                                                       Chemistry replaced natural ingredients.
      Even more telling is per capita                                                      Advances in understanding the chemistry
spending. Brazilian spending on beauty                                                     of scent enabled the creation of synthetic
products is $148 on an average for each                                                    fragrances, transforming the ancient
Brazilian, the highest amount in Latin                                                     perfume industry in the process.
America. That of Argentina and Chile is                                                    Entrepreneurs created brands. They came
just a few dollars less. Although individual                                               up with attractive packaging. They secured
Americans and Europeans spend more,                                                        endorsements from celebrities. Emotional
Latin Americans stand out among                                                            associations were built around products
emerging markets as spenders on beauty.                                                    which had once been functional. Brands
Thais, South Africans and Russians spend                                                   offered hope in a jar.
well under half the amount of Argentines,                                                       The modern industry was born in
Brazilians and Chileans. Chinese spend            In the popular media, the apparent       the rich industrialized world of Western
three-quarters less. Indians spend less than   Latin American fascination with beauty      Europe and the United States. As it grew it
one percent than people do in these three      is regularly ascribed to culture. Latin     incorporated the values and norms of those
Latin American countries.                      sensuousness, cults of body worship         societies. Beauty became associated with
    It is not just lipstick, fragrance and     in tropical climates, and machismo          Western appearances with Paris and New
other cosmetic products. Brazil, Mexico,       expectations about female appearance        York as aspirational global beauty capitals.
Colombia and Argentina regularly feature       are regularly mentioned. The conservative   The features of white people were hailed as
in the top ten countries for cosmetic          and religious nature of much of Latin       the global standard of beauty, and others
plastic surgery, alongside stalwarts such      American society rarely gets a mention,     were considered ugly. In the United States,
as the United States and South Korea.          however. History points to more complex,    when beauty contests like Miss America
Brazil, which offers a tax reduction for       and contingent, explanations.               started in the interwar years, African-
such surgery, is a world leader in breast          Let me begin with the obvious: Latin    Americans (and other ethnicities like Jews)
implants and liposuction. Latin Americans      America was not the home of the modern      were excluded. Beauty was gendered also.
are associated with a range of beauty          beauty industry, nor of plastic surgery.    Reflecting hardening gender identities in
enhancements, from the “Brazilian wax”         As I explained in my book on the history    the 19th century, beauty products became
to “jeans Colombianos.”                        of the global beauty industry, Beauty       associated with women rather than men,

10 ReVista   SPRING 2017                                                                   ALL PHOTOS THIS STORY COURTESY OF HAGLEY ARCHIVES.
BODY IMAGE AND THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY

which was never the case historically.               radio serials in the United States. It proved
    The modern beauty industry,                      an effective tool to grow the market for
along with its underlying ideological                toiletries in Latin America. The same firm
assumptions, was brought to Latin                    sponsored the first radionovela in Brazil
America by European and U.S. firms.                  in 1941. The advent of television during
Only a handful of urban dwellers had                 the 1950s provided a new medium. A
incomes and lifestyles sufficient to buy             pioneering Mexican telenovela, which
such imported brands. Nineteenth-                    became such a distinctive Latin American
century prudery and association                      cultural genre, came in 1958, when
of cosmetics with immorality also                    Televisa’s Canal 4 showed the Colgate-
restricted markets. However affluent                 Palmolive- sponsored Senda prohibida.
Buenos Aires, whose citizens famously                    As everywhere, U.S. and European
imagined themselves as located in                    firms only celebrated white beauty.
Europe, became a magnet for French                   The whiteness of the emergent Latin
fragrance and cosmetic houses before                 American beauty culture was evident in
World War I.                                         beauty contests, in which pale skins were
    In most of Latin America, however,                   exclusively featured. The first national
low incomes and prevailing ethics                        Brazilian beauty contest was held in
meant that toilet soap and toothpaste,                   1921, only three weeks after the first
not color cosmetics, were the first products             Miss America, though it was judged
U.S. and European firms introduced to                    entirely on the basis of photographs.
the region. Unilever, based in Britain and               The second contest in 1929 appointed a
the Netherlands, began making toilet soap                Miss Brazil to represent the country at
in São Paulo in Brazil in 1930, and the                  a Miss Universe contest held in Texas
business began selling toothpaste in 1939.               that year, and the final round included
    Western multinationals made markets                  taking the state winners through
and created consumer desires—they did                    Rio de Janeiro streets, before being
not respond to a pent-up demand for                      judged in Brazil’s largest stadium.
cosmetic adornment. Marketing strategies                 The participants and winners were all
were skillfully adjusted to local conditions.            white. The winner in the first contest
In Brazil women seldom read newspapers,                  had an Italian father.
the traditional medium used elsewhere                        The privileging of whiteness was
by Unilever for advertising. So the firm                 the norm of the global beauty industry,
switched to the more popular medium                      but it aligned well with the deep-seated
of radios. Latin American women                          racism throughout Latin America, as
were enticed with the opportunity to                     well as specific historical trends of the
emulate the latest beauty fashions of the            time. There was much discussion about the
United States and Europe. American                   nature of the Brazilian national identity
and European models were used in                     during the interwar years. The social elite
advertisements by the big cosmetics                  aspired to raise the country’s international
companies such as Max Factor.                        status by demonstrating its progress, and
However, as Julio Moreno from the                    that it was becoming more European,
University of San Francisco has shown,               defined as ethnically white. The judges
Ponds cream was advertised using                     in the 1929 contest included university
Mexican celebrities during the 1930s,                professors, journalists and politicians,
while Colgate-Palmolive, Unilever’s                  and it was chaired by the president of the
U.S. twin, featured famous Mexican                   Brazilian Academy of Letters.
singers such as the Aguilar Sisters on                    For a long time, Latin Americans
its weekly radio program.                            remained modest consumers of beauty.
     It was Colgate-Palmolive which                  Using corporate archives, I have been
pioneered the radionovela concept                    able to guestimate the historical size of
in interwar Cuba, drawing on its                     the industry. In 1950 the world industry
promotion of the so-called soap opera                was worth about $10 billion in today’s

                                                          REVISTA.DRCLAS.HARVARD.EDU   ReVista 11
BEAUTY

dollars—compared to $ 426 billion today.      America. An estimated eighty percent of       the desirable products at good prices, so
The United States was half the entire world   lipstick sales in Brazil are made by direct   providing them with an attractive earning
market. Brazil was a mere three percent,      selling.                                      opportunity. It tailored its strategy to
although surprisingly this was already            Avon was enormously skilled at enticing   local circumstances. It invested heavily
half the amount of the richer countries of    people to buy cosmetics. When it entered      in cosmetics education in countries such
Britain and France.                           a new market, it began with acquainting       as Venezeula, which at the time used few
      The real growth of the beauty           representatives and customers with the        cosmetics. In Brazil, as historian Shawn
market came later in the 20th century.        Avon line. It provided representatives with   Moura has shown, Avon responded
Multinational companies drove                                                                to prevailing gender norms which
market growth. U.S. and European                                                             disapproved of women working outside
companies devoted increasing                                                                 the home with a campaign to portray direct
attention to Latin America. The                                                              selling as a respectable activity akin to
region had high tariff barriers, but                                                         marriage. It also created a new accounting
most countries allowed foreign firms                                                         system in response to escalating inflation
to manufacture and sell locally. This                                                        rates during the 1960s. Avon took a lead in
was in big contrast to most of Asia                                                          using ethnicities with a range of skin tones
and Africa, where multinational                                                              in its advertisements. In the United States,
firms were unwelcome, or entirely                                                            the firm was a pioneer in using African-
blocked as in Communist China.                                                               Americans in advertisements from 1966
    The giants of the U.S. cosmetic                                                          onwards, though it was not until 1970
industry, whose marketing and                                                                that the first Afro-Latinos appeared
advertising expertise had built a                                                            in advertisements in Brazil. Avon did,
huge domestic market, spread over                                                            however, recruit darker skinned Brazilians
the subcontinent. Revlon opened                                                              as sales representatives much earlier.
its first foreign factory in Mexico in                                                           Latin Americans were educated and
1948. The German hair care company                                                           enticed to buy cosmetics, then, by firms
Wella started manufacturing in Chile                                                         which had honed their skills in marketing
in 1952, Brazil in 1954, Argentina in                                                        and business operations in advanced
1957, and in Mexico in 1961.                                                                 economies. They evidently found willing
    The most important corporate                                                             consumers, but this was at least as much
actor was Avon, the company which                                                                     owing to the region’s high levels of
pioneered direct selling of cosmetics                                                                 income and ethnic inequality than
in the United States. In 1954, Avon, whose                                                            to alleged body cultures or Latin
only previous international operation                                                                 sensuousness. As incomes rose,
had been in Canada, opened a new                                                                      growing numbers of urban middle
manufacturing business in Puerto Rico.                                                                class, overwhelmingly white rather
Over the following decade manufacturing                                                               than indigenous or Afro-Latino,
and selling operations were started in                                                                had money to spend on consumer
Venezuela, Cuba, Mexico and Brazil. Direct                                                            products beyond essentials. Beauty
selling was perfect for Latin America. In                                                             products were not big ticket items;
most countries, there were few department                                                             they delivered instant pleasure;
stores and only fragmented retail channels.                                                           and they were closely associated
Direct selling by sales representatives                                                               with the aspirational glamor and
enabled Avon to reach women in their                                                                  economic success of the United
workplaces and homes.                                                                                 States and Europe, to which so
     By 1960 Avon had secured strong                                                                  many urban Latin Americans were
market positions in many countries,                                                                   attracted.
including Venezuela, where it controlled                                                                 Over time, as the beauty
half of the cosmetics market. Even today                                                              business became established, it
nearly one-third of all beauty sales in                                                               also acquired a life of its own.
Latin America are made through direct                                                                 Beauty salons and institutes
sales, compared to five percent in Western                                                            flourished. The beauty industry,
Europe and less than ten percent in North                                                             although rightly condemned

12 ReVista   SPRING 2017
BODY IMAGE AND THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY

                                                                                                a medical school.
 In the United States, the firm was a pioneer in                                                    Brazil in particular saw a cluster of
                                                                                                local beauty companies formed with health
using African-Americans in advertisements from                                                  and sustainability concerns. O Boticário
1966 onwards, though it was not until 1970 that the                                             was founded in 1977 by Bolivian-born
                                                                                                Miguel Krigsner as a small pharmacy in
first Afro-Latinos appeared in advertisements in                                                the city of Curitiba in the state of Paraná.
Brazil. Avon did, however, recruit darker skinned                                               Krigsner’s vision was to provide a pleasant
                                                                                                environment where people felt good
Brazilians as sales representatives much earlier.                                               about themselves. The original shop had
                                                                                                a carpeted room with seating and coffee
by feminists and others for imposing           industry came to serve as one avenue for         for those who wanted to wait while their
restrictive ideals of beauty on women and      women to enter the workforce and earn            prescriptions were made up. Krisgner
making them constantly dissatisfied, was       incomes was not the only paradox in the          quickly got into cosmetics. In 1979 he
also a means out of poverty for many Latin     Latin American industry. In some respects,       opened his brand’s first exclusive shop
American women. They could earn extra          the industry became as associated with           at Curitiba airport, selling perfume and
income as direct sales representatives or by   wellness as with cosmetic adornment.             cosmetics. Within a few years, the small
manicuring nails in tiny salons. Meanwhile         The levels of cosmetic plastic surgery       pharmacy had grown to into a big business
winning a beauty contest became the            seen today in the region may justifiably         with 4,000 franchised shops in Brazil
equivalent to winning the lottery. Beauty      be seen as obsessive, as well as frequently      targeting the upper-middle segments of
pageants became big business. As               dangerous because of the large informal          the market through eco-friendly products.
television came to the sub-continent, they     and illegal component of that industry,          In 1990, the firm established a non-profit
attracted good audiences, so television        but the origins were more benign. Ivo            organization to preserve the natural
companies invested in promoting them.          Pitanguy, the founder of the Brazilian           environment.
The Pomona College historian Miguel            industry, earned the respect of his fellow           Social and environmental responsibility
Tinker-Salas has linked the advent of          citizens by providing his skills free of         was a principal concern of what became
Venezuela’s large beauty industry to the       charge to victims of a disaster when a huge      the largest Latin American beauty
growth of the Cisneros business group,         circus tent burned hundreds of spectators        company. Natura was established in 1969
the owner of the Venevision channel, from      in the city of Niteroi in 1961. Pitanguy was     by Antonio Luiz da Cunha Seabra as a
the 1980s.                                     a passionate believer in trying to counter       small laboratory and cosmetics store in the
     The self-reinforcing nature of the        “the stigma of deformity.” Although he           city of São Paulo. The company adopted
beauty industry is evident in Venezuela,       built a well-renowned celebrity business,        a direct selling model in 1974. Guilherme
whose citizens became frequent winners         over the following decades he continued          Leal and Pedro Passos later joined the
of international beauty contests. Avon and     to offer his staff and services free of charge   business, forming an unusual three-man
Venevision may have created the industry,      to less well-off patients one day a week.        leadership, which the company asserted
but over time a whole infrastructure               Quite a number of the locally owned          represented its soul, mind and body.
developed to prepare young women               cosmetics firms which began to appear                Natura’s direct selling business was a
for contests through enhancing their           in the region had an early and persistent        beneficiary of the so-called “lost decade”
appearances, often through surgery or          commitment to sustainability, health             of the 1980s, as many retailers collapsed,
hormones, public speaking skills, and          and societal concerns. An early example          while Natura was able to recruit thousands
much else. Venezuelan plastic surgeons         was in Colombia. Labfarve laboratories           of female sales representatives who needed
became world experts in a procedure            was founded in 1971 by Jorge Piñeros             a source of income. By 2005, when the firm
known as Boom Boom, which injected a           Corpas, a prominent Colombian doctor             went public with an IPO, it had revenues
woman’s own fat into her buttocks to make      and scientist, who initially sought to           of $1.5 billion and employed 480,000 sales
them bigger. The chances of appearing,         make more affordable medicines for the           consultants throughout the country. By
and succeeding, in television reality shows    poorer sections of society using plants and      2017 it had 1.6 billion consultants in Brazil.
were said to have driven young women to        traditional practices, sourcing ingredients          Seabra and his colleagues were at the
steal to pay for operations. The rewards for   from the peoples of the Amazon. The              forefront of social and environmental
winners were dazzling, for careers opened      company soon diversified into cosmetics          responsibility. In contrast to the perceived
up for them as models and television           and has made multiple innovations,               stereotypes of Brazilian body-worshipping,
presenters, and even occasionally in           including developing a natural Botox from        Natura criticized exploitative advertising
politics.                                      an extract of the acmella plant. The wider       and exaggerated promises. In 1992 the
    The fact that the postwar beauty           Corpas Group now includes a hospital and         company launched the concept of “The

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BEAUTY

Truly Beautiful Woman” which asserted
that beauty was not a matter of age but
of self-esteem. This was more than a
decade before Unilever’s much-hyped
Dove campaign which featured pictures
of seniors, larger women and other
unconventional beauty models.
   Natura was also concerned with the use
of sustainable methods and ingredients.
In 2000 the company launched the Ekos
brand, made from Brazilian biodiversity
products in a sustainable way. In 2007 it
was a founding member of the non-profit
Union for Ethical Bio-Trade. Leal, one of
the partners, was personally prominent in
the Brazilian section of the World Wildlife
Fund, and even stood as the Green Party
vice-presidential candidate in Marina
Silva’s unsuccessful campaign in 2010.
In 2014 the firm became the largest (by
then it had sales of $2.6 billion), and first
publicly traded company, to obtain B Corp
certification, designed to encourage the
highest standards of environmental and
social stewardship and transparency in
business.
   Latin America was not preordained by a
stereotyped culture to be a temple of beauty.
The industry grew at a specific time, and
was shaped in a specific way by corporate
actors. Its impact was as contradictory
as the region itself. It imposed restrictive
notions of beauty on generations of women,
almost certainly intensified rather than
challenged racism, and created cultures
in which breast implants and buttocks
injections were the societal norm. It
peddled unrealistic dreams. Yet it was
also an industry which provided income to
hundreds of thousands of people, primarily
women. And it provided the setting for
some of the region’s (and indeed the
world’s) most socially and environmentally
progressive companies to flourish.

Geoffrey Jones is Isidor Straus Professor
of Business History at the Harvard Busi-
ness School. His books include Beauty
Imagined (Oxford University Press,
2010). His most recent book, Profits and
Sustainability:A History of Green Entre-
preneurship (Oxford University Press),
will be published this spring.

14 ReVista   SPRING 2017                        PHOTO BY JUNE CAROLYN ERLICK.
BODY IMAGE AND THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY

The Culture of Skinniness.
Skinny, Pretty...and Happy?”. Combating Anorexia and Bulimia in Medellín.
 By LUCRECIA RAMÍREZ RESTREPO

ROSARIO IS 21 YEARS OLD AND A PERFECT SIZE 6.                                                      ropean concept of beauty with very skinny
A fifth-semester student in international                                                          models. All these fashion-related events ex-
business in Medellín, Colombia, she’s often                                                        erted much pressure over the city’s women.
thought of herself as fat. It all started when                                                     Many felt the need to combine thinness and
she was a child, and her parents encour-                                                           voluptuosity, as well as fitness—an impos-
aged her to lose weight the healthy way—                                                           sible task from the perspective of health.
through diet, exercise and good nutrition—                                                         Women found it necessary to use extreme
so she wouldn’t become overweight as an                                                            practices as starvation, exercise until ex-
adult since the tendency ran in her family.                                                        haustion, laxatives and plastic surgery.
    But those paths didn’t seem to work for                                                             As the number of cases raised dra-
her. As she approached her teens, she hated                                                        matically, the city began a project for the
her body; she would measure her waist,                                                             prevention of Eating Disorders known as
arms and hips after each and every shower.                                                         “Skinny, Pretty...and Happy?” in 1997. This
She finally discovered vomiting—which we                                                           program focused on gender equity and the
know more technically as bulimia. Then                                                             development of economic, social and cul-
came diet pills and laxatives. When she                                                            tural rights of women as a way of struggling
turned sixteen, she convinced her par-                                                             against objectification and dependence on
ents to finance liposuction and breast en-                                                         physical appearance.
largement. But it was a constant battle to                                                             The program began in the Women’s
maintain her weight: two hours daily of                                                            Mental Health Academic Group in the
exercise, pills and starvation. A classmate                                                        Psychiatric Department at the University
died of what some said was anorexia—self-                                                          of Antioquia, and in the government of the
induced starvation. But despite the shadow       of Antioquia (Hospital San Vincent de             civic movement Compromiso Ciudadano
of a possibly dangerous eating disorder,         Paul)—were considered “exotic.” Two fac-          led by Mayor Sergio Fajardo (2004-2007).
Rosario kept up her regimen to keep her          tors came into play: drug trafficking and         The program was incorporated in the pro-
figure—to please her family and boyfriend        the development of Medellín as a fashion          grammatic line “women’s development,”
and to compete with classmates.                  center, both of which fostered the ideal of       which brought together civil society or-
    Rosario is a composite figure of the         extreme thinness, but at the same time            ganizations.
young women we see on a daily basis at our       sexiness and fitness.                                 The entire intervention had three stag-
outpatient psychiatric clinic in Medellín.           The irruption of narcotrafficking at the      es: first with comprehension of the problem
Body image is not just a passing concern         beginning of the ‘80s in Medellín meant           (1999-2003), then with implementation of
of adolescents: it affects women (and to         a very deep and traumatic political, so-          the program (2004-2007), and finally with
a much lesser degree, men) in terms of           cial and cultural change and fracture in          extensive evaluation (2008).
self-worth, relationships, sexuality, human      our society. Drug kings sought to express             In order to understand the scope of the
development and even productivity. It’s not      their “new power” by buying whatever they         problem, two studies looked at the issue,
just that Rosario invested time and money        wanted: in particular, beautiful women,           the first one in 1999, in which almost 1,000
in staying very thin; that’s time and energy     in the style of the voluptuous Pamela An-         high school girls from five elite schools
she could have spent on her studies and          derson and the like, associated with the          were enrolled in workshops, conversation
personal enrichment.                             American beauty of those times. Women             programs with parents, and lectures. The
    The pressures generally come from            were exhibited as trophies. A little later, one   University of Antioquia study found that
three sources: mass media, parents and           the projects that the Medellín establish-         77 percent of the girls were horrified at the
schoolmates. It wasn’t always this way.          ment came up with was the presentation            idea of gaining weight; 41 percent indulged
During the 1980s and until the mid-90s,          of the city as the Milan of Latin America,        in binge eating; 33 percent felt guilty after
cases of anorexia and bulimia at our clin-       creating a Fashion Show and three fairs           eating; 16 percent felt that food controlled
ic—attached to the prestigious University        that featured beauty along the lines of a Eu-     their lives; 8 percent reported self-induced

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BEAUTY

vomiting. The school study sounded the                                                            or appreciation and more in the context of
alarm about the severity of eating disorders                                                      self-worth. There’s an emphasis placed on
in Medellín, but it certainly wasn’t a rep-                                                       kindness and self-development, as well as
resentative study because it included only                                                        beauty. But that’s far from suggesting that
the schools that had called to participate.                                                       the problem has gone away.
    A second, more comprehensive study                                                                Femininity is still closely associated
in 2003 using a representative sample of                                                          with beauty, so now you’ll hear phrases
adolescent students, found that in Medel-                                                         like “I want to be a great professional, but
lín, 33 percent of them were at increased                                                         not give up being feminine in the process”
risk for eating disorders. The study found                                                        or “I want to be my own person, but also
that the risk was not related to how wealthy                                                      to be seen as beautiful by others.” In ad-
or poor the girls were or type of school,        temporary capacities and what it means           dition, women still see appearance as a
public or private, mixed or feminine. The        for a 21st- century woman to be accepted         key to getting a good job or getting ahead
prevalence of the illness estimated those at     in society.                                      in general. Today, in the 21st century, de-
high risk to be 31 percent. That compared            Finally, a citizens’ network for social      spite all the interventions and progress,
with 5 percent in Spain and 10.2 percent         responsibility was created from health in-       the culture is giving its (young) women
in the United States at the time. The study      stitutions, universities, gyms, schools, local   this message: “It doesn’t matter how in-
also confirmed the previously described          television and print media, dance acad-          telligent, capable, honest, hard-working,
risk factors as bullying or teasing about        emies, modeling agencies and artists, to         collaborative, compassionate,. attentive
weight issues, previous obesity or obesity in    make them aware of the role they might           and diligent you are...if you are not pretty,
the family, and negative comments (some-         play in fomenting (or preventing) eating         you’re worthless....whatever effort you put
times well-intentioned) by friends or family     disorders and introduce structural changes       into being beautiful is justified because
members about body appearance.                   in their own businesses in order to contrib-     in this way we guarantee your inclusion,
    Then, the program used three main            ute to decrease the social pressure on the       recognition and opportunities.”
strategies, to go beyond direct work with        idea that women have to be skinny to be              Beauty continues to be seen as thin-
adolescents. The idea was to make the en-        desirable, recognized and happy.                 ness. Interviews with adolescents reveal
vironment more friendly to diverse body              The project, for example, resulted in a      a lack of consensus about the marketing
types and stopping the promotion of the          rule that models had to undergo a nutri-         of skinniness. Some observe they have
ideal of skinniness.                             tional evaluation before they could partici-     role models in fashion or television who
     First, a continuous two-year public         pate in the 2007 fashion fair Colombiamo-        are far from thin; they even observe that
health campaign used television, radio,          da. The Institute for Exports and Fashion        pleasantly plump is becoming fashionable.
newspapers and ads plastered on billboards       (Inexmoda) developed the regulations with        But many others insist that social pressure
in the city (roads, metro stations, bus stops)   the support of the network of eating dis-        makes them want to be thin at any cost.
to denounce the skinniness culture. Catchy       order activists. Since these fashion icons           This variety of opinions is a little bit
images showed strange-looking “skinny”           provide role models for teenagers, the in-       of progress. The model of prevention of
elephants, rhinos and zebras, with the cap-      stitute banned models with extremely low         eating disorders developed by the city of
tion, “It looks weird, right?…and you, how       body mass index (BMI, the proportion of          Medellín was innovative because it starts
do you look?” Later, in the phase of social      fat to height and weight). This rule—an          with the premise that these disturbances
awareness, the text of the billboard warned,     act of social responsibility—represented         are profoundly rooted in the ideas societies
“Hey! Be careful!, The skinniness culture        a powerful acknowledgment that fashion           hold about women. In the end, after ten
has fomented anorexia and bulimia, a so-         plays a significant part in establishing what    years of combating the thin beauty ideal,
cially contagious illness.” Later, in the re-    is beautiful. In the sector of fitness clubs,    the rates of developing eating disorders
sistance phase, captions declared, “Even if      Bodytech, a national chain, eliminated all       have dropped when social pressures over
the skinniness culture is powerful, there is     photos of abnormally thin women, substi-         women’s body appearance has been re-
no such power greater than the resistance        tuting more normal and diverse women as          duced. There’s hope for breaking the con-
capacity of society.”                            a sign of a socially responsible attitude for    cept of “thin is beautiful, and the thinner,
    In addition, the educational sector con-     women’s life and wellbeing.                      the better, and beauty leads to happiness.”
ducted 273 workshops in 425 high schools,            Things are changing slowly, as a care-
which worked with 3.294 adult men and            ful data-based monitoring process of the         Lucrecia Ramírez Restrepo is a clinical
women (teachers and parents) through             project in 2008 indicated. Adolescents are       psychiatrist in Medellín, retired profes-
569 institutional projects they design and       now developing an evolving concept of            sor at the Psychiatric Department at the
implemented, to develop new concepts of          femininity. Women are less frequently per-       University of Antioquia, who specializes
femininity, female beauty, women’s con-          ceived just as objects for others’ pleasure      in eating disorders.

16 ReVista   SPRING 2017                                                                                                        REVISTA ARCHIVES
BODY IMAGE AND THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY

            Should I Eat the Chocolate Cake?
                 Weight and Body Image in Latin American Women’s Texts
                                                 By RENÉE S. SCOTT

WHEN PEOPLE LEARN THAT I RESEARCH THE     literature (Escritoras uruguayas: una        with a blind man. One day her lover
representation of food and weight in      antología critica, 2002), I came across      announces that he plans to seek a cure
Latin American women’s literature, they   the short story “Inmensamente Eunice”        for his blindness. Afraid that once he
frequently ask me two questions.          (Immensely Eunice, 1999) by Andrea           recovers his sight, he will be horrified by
The first question is how I became        Blanqué. The story is about a fat,           her large body, Eunice embarks on various
interested in such an untraditional       single woman. We read about Eunice’s         diets to lose weight. She is successful.
topic. The answer goes back to the year   challenging job search, because potential    At the conclusion of the story, the man
2000, when I was evaluating texts for     employers don’t like her size, and also      does in fact recovers his sight, but in an
an anthology on Uruguayan women’s         about her satisfying romantic relationship   ironic twist, rejects her new, thin body,

                                                                                           REVISTA.DRCLAS.HARVARD.EDU   ReVista 17
BEAUTY

and thus she loses the affection of the       economic and intellectual oppression           (2009), most of the fiction works on
only man who ever truly paid attention        that patriarchal society imposes on            women’s weight and eating disorders
to her. Blanqué’s text intrigued me, and      women in her “Respuesta a Sor Filotea”         in Latin America have been written in
I began to wonder whether there were          (Reply to Sor Philotea, 1691). More            Argentina and Mexico, although a few
other texts that dealt with contemporary      recently, since the 1980s, authors such        come from Chile, Guatemala, Puerto
society’s obsession with the slender body.    as Mexican Laura Esquivel, in her famous       Rico and Uruguay. The fact that the
    As Naomi Wolf proposes so eloquently      1989 novel Como agua para chocolate            majority are from Argentina and Mexico
in The Beauty Myth (1991), the relentless     [Like Water for Chocolate], present            is not surprising, considering their large
emphasis on women’s physical appearance       the kitchen as a self-empowering site,         populations and their active feminist
can trap them in an endless cycle of          where women develop alliances with             scenes (organizations, magazines, etc.).
insecurity, and self-hatred of their own      each other and freely express their own        Also, in examining Mexico, we need to
bodies, regardless of all the professional    subjectivity. Nevertheless, as I found         consider the influence of its neighbor,
and personal progress that has been           out in my search, texts that specifically      the United States, which has its own
achieved since the women’s liberation         address food and weight emerge only in         highly feminist sensibilities. Interestingly
movement. Even though the use of food         the 1990s. A younger generation of female      enough, the majority of these texts have
and women’s weight in Latin American          authors has now turned its attention to        yet to be translated into English, or even
fictional texts as a tool to criticize the    the exclusion and marginalization of the       recognized outside the countries where
cultural emphasis on thinness is a relative   heavier woman, criticizing in its texts        they were published, for that matter.
new occurrence, the topic of food being       current notions of beauty, and proposing           The second question I am often asked
used to express gender concerns is            a feminine identity on their own terms.        is if there is even an issue with weight in
certainly not new. As early as the 17th-      Several writers explore bulimia as well,       Latin America. “Don’t Latin American
century Mexican writer Sor Juana Inés         attesting to more recent social interest       men like their women meaty?” is the
de la Cruz uses food, and cooking, as an      in eating disorders. Thus far, as I posit in   common refrain. This question is much
expressive device to convey the social,       What is Eating Latin American Writers?         more complicated to answer than the

18 ReVista   SPRING 2017                                                                                                  REVISTA ARCHIVES
BODY IMAGE AND THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY

                                                                                               the aforementioned Como agua para
As Naomi Wolf proposes so eloquently in The                                                    chocolate, a text that popularized food
                                                                                               discourse in Latin America. Set on a
Beauty Myth (1991), the relentless emphasis on                                                 ranch on the Mexican-U.S. border during
women’s physical appearance can trap them in an                                                the Mexican Revolution, the book—a
                                                                                               combination of narrative and cooking
endless cycle of insecurity, and self-hatred of their                                          recipes—tells the doomed love story of
own bodies, regardless of all the professional and                                             Tita de la Garza and Pedro Muzquiz,
                                                                                               who cannot marry because according to
personal progress that has been achieved since the                                             a family tradition, Tita, as the youngest
women’s liberation movement.                                                                   daughter, must remain single to take
                                                                                               care of her aging mother. Pedro marries
                                                                                               her older sister Rosaura to stay close to
first. The term gordita (fatty) is indeed                                                      Tita, and she utilizes the book’s cooking
an endearment that men commonly use                                                            recipes to prepare delicious and sensual
to address their wives, girlfriends and                                                        dishes to retain Pedro’s love. Although
sisters, suggesting a more accepting                                                           the novel vindicates a woman’s role in
attitude towards women’s body size. In                                                         the kitchen, the representation of its
her study of fatness in Caribbean culture                                                      female characters reflects dominant
and literature, “Así me gustas gordita” (I                                                     cultural prejudices. Tita is revealed as a
like you plump, 2005), Emily Branden                                                           woman of strikingly youthful freshness
points out that Latin American men                                                             and arresting proportions: “her breasts
indeed do appreciate a more voluptuous                                                         moved freely, since she never wore a
female body. However, the fat they love                                                        brassiere, while her sister Rosaura is
is concentrated in specific parts of the        their countries. Nine out of ten sufferers     so fat and grotesque that Pedro would
body, specifically large breasts, wide hips,    of bulimia and anorexia are women, and         rather sleep in another bedroom than
and curved rears. And in the study on           the Colombian expert commented that in         with her.” Clearly, Esquivel’s objective is
fatness acceptance, “Que gordita: A Study       the city of Medellin, for example, where       to accentuate poetic justice by contrasting
of Weight Among Women in a Puerto               many young girls aspire to be models,          the beautiful heroine who is forced to
Rican Community,” Emily Massara finds           17% of them suffer from some kind of           relinquish the man she loves with the
that women think they have a weight-            eating disorder.                               anti-heroine who marries him. And
appropriate body if they retain a visible          Women today face a cruel conundrum.         yet, the notion that only the young and
waistline and also associate weight with        On the one hand, they are still expected to    slender body is attractive to men contrasts
fertility and well-being; but Massara’s         be the principal providers of nourishment      drastically with her attempt to put forth
findings are only based on the responses        for their families; therefore, they must       a feminist narrative.
of a group of Puerto Rican immigrants           stay close to food. On the other hand, they        Afrodita (Aphrodite, 1999), b y
living in the Philadelphia area. It is clear,   are under constant pressure to manage          bestselling author Isabel Allende, is a
from reading Latin American magazines           their weight in order to be “presentable”      light and humorous book of personal
and watching television, that the beauty        and conform to the physical silhouette         anecdotes, literary texts and cooking
image consistently promoted in these            promulgated by the media and gender            recipes that exhorts women to abandon
outlets is that of a young, thin woman. The     industries.                                    their inhibitions and pursue the pleasures
only exception seems to be the archetypal          Generational differences appear in          of the flesh. Nevertheless, multiple
mother, grandmother or trusted maid in          the ways various Latin American authors        negative references regarding weight,
the soap operas, given acceptance as fat        approach female size issues. Older writers     which go hand in hand with mass
and lovable. It is worth noting that the        (born in the 1940s and 1950s, before the       culture messages, do not conform to the
2011 seminar in Miami “Soy hermosa,             social gains of the women’s liberation         book’s initial liberated proposal. Allende
libre de preocupaciones relacionadas con        movement) tend to display a conflictive        repeatedly laments not being able to enjoy
la comida y mi cuerpo” (I am pretty, free       attitude towards appearance and weight,        the delicious desserts she includes in the
of worries related to food and my body)         even as they overtly make a distinctive        book because she does not want to gain
brought together experts from Colombia,         attempt to accept their bodies as they         weight. She confesses that she bought sexy
Venezuela, El Salvador and the United           are. Younger authors (born in the 1960s        lingerie “to veil [her] cellulite,” and even
States to discuss weight issues and the         and later), are more likely to reject social   though she believes that licking chocolate
sharp increase in eating disorders in           norms regarding women’s size. Consider         mousse off a lover’s skin is highly sensual,

                                                                                                   REVISTA.DRCLAS.HARVARD.EDU   ReVista 19
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