BELGIAN COSMETICS - abh-ace

 
BELGIAN COSMETICS - abh-ace
BELGIAN
COSMETICS
BELGIAN COSMETICS - abh-ace
Editor: Fabienne L’Hoost
Authors: Christelle Charlier, Céline Vandermeersch, Wouter Decoster & Nicolas Preillon
Graphic design and layout: OskarD
COPYRIGHT © Reproduction of the text is authorised provided the source is acknowledged
Date of publication: September 2016
Printed on FSC-labelled paper
This publication is also available to be consulted at the website of the Belgian Foreign Trade Agency: www.abh-ace.be
BELGIAN COSMETICS - abh-ace
BELGIAN COSMETICS

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION                                                   4

CHAPTER 1
PRESENTATION OF THE SECTOR                                     7

SECTION 1: THE COSMETICS INDUSTRY IN FIGURES                   8
   1 >> TURNOVER                                               8
   2 >> COMPANIES AND JOBS                                     12
   3 >> EXPORTS                                                12

SECTION 2: BELGIUM’S ADVANTAGES IN THE VALUE CHAIN             15
   1 >> BELGIUM, A WORLD-CLASS CHEMICALS CLUSTER               16
   2 >> BELGIUM, THE IDEAL TEST MARKET                         16
   3 >> BELGIUM, FOCUSED ON INNOVATION                         17
   4 >> BELGIUM, A STRICT REGULATORY FRAMEWORK                 18

SECTION 3: STAKEHOLDERS                                        20
   1 >> OFFICIAL ORGANISATIONS                                 20
   2 >> COSMETICS INDUSTRY BODIES                              22

CHAPTER 2
SUCCESS STORIES IN BELGIUM                                    25

   ANHAIRCO                                                    26
   CODIBEL                                                     28
   COSMEBEL                                                    30
   ECOVER                                                      32
   EXPANSCIENCE                                                34
   JYB COSMETICS                                               36
   L’ORÉAL LIBRAMONT                                           38
   MYLÈNE                                                      40
   NADINE SALEMBIER                                            42
   OBELIS                                                      44
   PRANARÔM                                                    46
   WORLD NATURAL CARE                                          48

CHAPTER 3
DIRECTORY OF COMPANIES                                         51
BELGIAN COSMETICS - abh-ace
INTRODUCTION

          INTRODUCTION                                                      THE STARTING POINT -
                                                                            HYGIENE AND PROTECTION

          COSMETICS OF                                                      Health is, in the first place, the result of personal hygiene,
                                                                            which is achieved by using cosmetics. Personal care and
          EVERY STRUCTURE                                                   hygiene products, such as soap, shampoo and shower gel,
                                                                            are essential to modern hygiene and good health, and con-
          AND FRAGRANCE                                                     tribute to longevity. In today’s society, life expectancy is con-
                                                                            stantly breaking new records. And since soap became
          (SOURCE: DETIC)                                                   available to everybody, the quality of life has only improved.
                                                                            Illnesses due to a lack of hygiene have disappeared from
                                                                            western societies.

                                                                            Protecting the body against external influences is an essen-
          In a society where we constantly hear words such as               tial function of many cosmetics. Although few people really
          ‘growth’ and ‘profit’, we sometimes forget the magical,           appreciate it, toothpaste and sun cream are also cosmetic
          original worth of a product: its sensuality. This introduction    products. An amount of toothpaste equivalent to the size of
          takes us back to basics. It offers a literary puff, sniff or      a pea is enough to protect teeth against decay; dentists rec-
          smell of the feeling that cosmetics can bring, products that      ommend twice-daily brushing quite rightly. Meanwhile, sun
          are functional and sensual, of course, but that also have an      products protect us against the sun’s rays, in which we often
          immaterial and often very cerebral side.                          spend more time than is good for us. Used correctly, these
                                                                            products can slow down premature skin aging and, essen-
          “Functional products are present everywhere in our lives.         tially, sunburn, a major cause of skin cancer.
          You clean your house with a cleaning product and mow your
          lawn with a mower. Functionality is straightforward. But a
          cosmetic has several aspects. From embellishment to hy-
          giene, it is the only product that promotes its users’            PSYCHOLOGICAL EFFECTS OF
          well-being and, going beyond their senses, stimulates their       COSMETICS
          imagination.” With these words, Yu-Ting Chen, technical
          and regulatory expert at DETIC, immediately sets the tone         But the hygienic and protective value of cosmetics goes be-
          for this introduction. “A cosmetic is not simply the product      yond their functional operation to the level of human psy-
          itself; it has many offshoots. When you buy a cosmetic, you       chological health. Through their odours and textures, these
          feel a real sense of pleasure because you know you are ac-        products can reawaken emotions and memories hidden
          quiring a product that gives you a sense of well-being. Cos-      away in our deepest minds. In fact, throughout our lives we
          metics and everything associated with them bring a feeling        sketch an image of ourselves made from scents, experi-
          of happiness.” And this feeling is far from trivial; it creates   ences and memories. Scents are with us throughout our
          a real link between physical and mental health. Pleasure is       development. Subconsciously or consciously, they mark
          good for your health!                                             specific events – pleasant or otherwise – while reinforcing
                                                                            our personality and maintaining our self-image. Think, for
                                                                            example, of the scent of an aunt who was very strict and
                                                                            unloving. Not the best of memories! Subconsciously, you
                                                                            will not be drawn to anyone who wears the same perfume.
       Functionality is straightforward.                                    Think, too, of a crying baby whose tears dry up like magic
  But a cosmetic has several aspects. From                                  when he smells the odour of his “blankey”.
embellishment to hygiene, it is the only product
                                                                            These subjective experiences of odours and textures and
that promotes its users’ well-being and, going
                                                                            their positive effects have also been confirmed objectively
     beyond their senses, stimulates their
                  imagination.

                                                                 4
BELGIAN COSMETICS - abh-ace
BELGIAN COSMETICS

in various studies. In recent years, there has been analysis
of the impact of cosmetics on the quality of life. Here, Data
Mining International, an independent Swiss research agen-
cy, has confirmed the validity and reliability of a new instru-    COSMETICS,
ment for measuring the quality-of-life impact of cosmetics
(BeautyQol). For some people, this impact is considerable.         TOUCHING
A particularly good example is a video posted on YouTube in
which an American teenager used camouflaging make-up               PEOPLE’S LIVES
to hide her acne, helping hundreds of other teenagers to
feel better about themselves – a beneficial act of self-ac-
ceptance delivered by a few beauty products! The effect of
cosmetics is far less superficial than you might think.
                                                                   The vast majority of Europe’s 500 million consumers use
In addition to giving a boost to self-confidence, applying         cosmetic and personal care products contributing to well
cosmetics can also have other ‘unexpected’ beneficial ef-          being and healthy lifestyles, and positive self-esteem every
fects. As an example, a small French study showed that the         day. Ranging from antiperspirants, fragrances, makeup
tactile experience of applying cosmetics can aid eye-to-           and shampoos, to soaps, sunscreens and toothpastes, cos-
hand coordination leading to improved balance, and even to         metics play an essential role in all stages of our life.
protecting older people against falls. Yet another good rea-
son, if needed, for getting out those little jars that are lurk-   EU Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parlia-
ing at the back of your cupboards.                                 ment and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic
                                                                   products defines cosmetics as any substance that comes
                                                                   into contact with the epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and
                                                                   external genital organs or with the teeth and the mucous
A THIRD DIMENSION                                                  membranes of the oral cavity with a view to:

A final use of cosmetics in our environment is more strate-        •   cleaning them
gic in nature. “For centuries, the use of cosmetics has been       •   protecting them
part of a natural tendency of humans to impress, frighten,         •   keeping them in good condition
seduce or manipulate. This goes from hunters who rubbed            •   perfuming them or correcting body odours or
ochre into their skin to hide their scent to the “psychologi-      •   changing their appearance.
cal” preparation for an important meeting to close a deal,
where the “predator” mimics the appearance of the “prey”           Cosmetics Europe, the European personal care and cos-
as much as possible. The reassurance of a familiar scent,          metics federation, identifies five main categories of cos-
the recognition of a make-up item, even the same style of          metic products:
clothing can transform an enemy into a friend. For exam-
ple, scent mimicking allows a “family-like” connection to          •   Toiletries
be created where it does not exist – and to take advantage             (soaps, shower gels, toothpastes, deodorants, etc.)
of it.” stresses Frédérick Warzée, Head of Communications          •   Skin care
and cosmetologist at DETIC.                                            (moisturizers, sun creams, anti-aging creams, etc.)
                                                                   •   Hair care
Cosmetics have long been part of our quality of life and, con-         (shampoos, hair dyes, mousses, etc.)
sequently, have improved our health. They also determine           •   Decorative cosmetics
how people perceive each other and the world around them,              (make-up, foundations, powders, blushers, lipsticks,
while providing a framework for our experiences and me-                nail varnishes, eye shadows, etc.)
mories. Cosmetics are lived, smelled and felt: their effect is     •   Fragrances & perfumes
sensual and psychological but is hard to describe in words.            (perfumes, eau de toilette, extracts, lotions, etc.).

                                                        5
BELGIAN COSMETICS - abh-ace
BELGIAN COSMETICS - abh-ace
PRESENTATION
OF THE SECTOR
BELGIAN COSMETICS - abh-ace
PRESENTATION OF THE SECTOR

    SECTION 1                                                1 >>
                                                             TURNOVER

    THE COSMETICS                                            By country
                                                             The cosmetics industry is biggest in Europe, where it ac-
    INDUSTRY                                                 counts for around one third of the global sales of cosmet-
                                                             ics. Domestic turnover expressed in retail sales price (RSP)
    IN FIGURES                                               was EUR 77.1 billion in 2015, compared to EUR 72.5 billion
                                                             in 2014, an increase of 3.1%. The Cosmetics Europe statis-
                                                             tics cover the 28 member states of the EU plus Switzerland
                                                             and Norway.

                                                             The second biggest market is the United States, with EUR
                                                             62 billion in sales. The third biggest consumer of cosmetics
                                                             is China, at EUR 41 billion. Next come Brazil (EUR 23 bil-
                                                             lion), Japan (EUR 20 billion), India (EUR 10 billion) and
                                                             South Korea (EUR 9 billion). The experts expect emerging
                                                             economies like Brazil, India, China and Mexico to drive in-
                                                             dustry growth in the years to come.

                                                             At European level, Belgium is ranked 9th, accounting for
                                                             2.7% of the European total, with turnover of EUR 2,057 bil-
                                                             lion in 2015 (+ 0.7% compared to 2014). It should be noted
                                                             that these figures include Luxembourg.
    FIGURE 1:
    MAIN COSMETICS MARKETS, IN EUR BILLIONS (2015)

                                                    EUROPE
                                                     €77bn

             US                                                                               SOUTH KOREA
            €62bn                                                                                €9bn

                                                                                                        JAPAN
                                                                                                        €20bn

                    BRAZIL                                                                              CHINA
                    €23bn                                             INDIA                             €41bn
                                                                      €10bn

                                                                                              Source: Cosmetics Europe (2016)

                                                8
BELGIAN COSMETICS - abh-ace
BELGIAN COSMETICS

                                                                FIGURE 2:
                                                                BREAKDOWN OF TURNOVER BY PRODUCT CATEGORY
                                                                IN EUROPE AND BELGIUM (2015)
By product
There is a fairly balanced spread of turnover over the five
Cosmetics Europe product categories (see Introduction).
Skin care products and toiletries make up half of all Europe-
an turnover. In Belgium, skin care products have been over-
taken by hair products, which make up 26.1% of turnover.                            13.9%
The Belgian share of European hair product sales is 3.6%                                                25.8%
(compared to an average of 2.7% for cosmetics).

                                                                            15.7%
                                                                                        EUROPE

                                 SWEDEN                                                                25.1%
                                  €2.0bn                                        19.4%

                 NETHERLANDS
                    €2.9bn
                                       POLAND
                                        €3.1bn

              UK           GERMANY
            €12.5bn         €13.4bn                                                  11.4%

                                                                                                        25.5%

                                                                            18.0%
                                                                                        BELGIUM

                                                                                                        19.0%

                                                                                    26.1%

                                          SWITZERLAND
                                          €2.3bn

                                                                                      SKIN CARE

                                                                                      TOILETRIES

                                                                                      HAIR CARE

      SPAIN                       ITALY                                               FRAGANCE & PERFUMES
      €6.4bn                     €9.7bn
               FRANCE                                                                 DECORATIVE COSMETICS
               €11.4bn

          BELGIUM / LUXEMBOURG
                  €2.1bn

                                                                                                  Source: Cosmetics Europe (2016)

                                                      9
BELGIAN COSMETICS - abh-ace
PRESENTATION OF THE SECTOR

    FIGURE 3 :
    BREAKDOWN OF TURNOVER BY DISTRIBUTION
    CHANNEL IN BELGIUM, IN EUR THOUSANDS (2014)
                                                                                                              By distribution channel
                                                                                                              DETIC statistics cover sales on the Belgian market by feder-
                                                                                                              ation members (80%-90% of the total). DETIC identifies four
                                       MASS MARKET
                                                                                                              distribution channels for cosmetics products:

                                       SELECTIVE DISTRIBUTION
                                                                                                              •   mass retail, which also includes brands selling their
                                       PHARMACY
                                                                                                                  own products through their own distribution channels
                                       PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS                                                      (such as Yves Rocher, l’Occitane and Body Shop) as well
                                                                                                                  as semi-selective retail through drug stores (such as Di
                                                                                                                  and Kruidvat)
                                                               2%
                                                                                                              •   selective retail, including multi-brand stores (such as
                                                                                                                  Ici Paris XL and PlanetParfum) and independents
                                       10%
                                                                                                              •   pharmacies
                                                                                                              •   professional products.

                                                                                                              Mass retail accounts for more than half of turnover (52% in
                                                                                52%
                   36%
                                                                                                              2014). However, this channel has gradually ceded market
                                                                                                              share to selective retail (36%) and pharmacies (10%). Pro-
                                                                                                              fessional products account for 2% of turnover.

                                                                                                              There are some notable differences between the product
                                                                                                              categories. While mass retail is preferred for toiletries and
                                                                                                              hair products, selective retail dominates fragrances & per-
     250,000
                                                                                                              fumes. These two channels are on an equal footing with re-
                                                                                                              gard to decorative cosmetics and skin care. Pharmacies ac-
     200,000
                                                                                                              count for a quarter of skin care sales. The professional
                                                                                                              products channel is mainly used for hair care.
     150,000

     100,000

      50,000

           0
                 FRAGANCE & PERFUMES

                                        DECORATIVE COSMETICS

                                                                    SKIN CARE

                                                                                HAIR CARE

                                                                                            TOILETRIES

                                                                        Source: DETIC (based on members)

                                                                                                         10
BELGIAN COSMETICS

What about e-commerce in Belgium?
Online sales are included in the above categories, as DETIC does not have
a specific category for this. For a long time, the inability to get advice and
test products held back e-commerce, but it is now experiencing growth.
This distribution channel complements the physical circuit, offering
consumers a “different, enriched and personalised user experience”.

According to the latest figures from BeCommerce (the Belgian federation
of online merchants), taken as a whole, e-commerce is continuing to grow
and break records. Belgian consumers spent almost EUR 2.3 billion online
in the first quarter of 2016 (+9% compared to the same period in 2015)
in 21.4 million transactions (+7%). 76% of the population shopped online
between January and March 2016. This channel accounted for 16% of
total receipts in the Belgian retail industry.

This figures show that Belgium is catching up in e-commerce. According
to BeCommerce, Belgium is in the top half in Europe.

The growth potential in cross-border e-commerce should also be stressed.
53.2% of the online purchases by Belgians in 2015 were made on foreign
websites, especially those in neighbouring countries (Netherlands,
Germany and France). According to BeCommerce, due to the size of the
country, Belgian online merchants have no choice but to move into the
export business. 82% of their visitors are foreign, mainly from France, the
Netherlands, the United States and the United Kingdom.

The growth trend in e-commerce is also discernible in cosmetics: Belgians
are buying more and more online. Health and beauty products accounted
for 9% of all online purchases in 2015. The most popular categories were
clothing and accessories (27%), electronics (24%) and leisure activities
(11%). Cosmetics actually rose to first place during the Christmas and
New Year period, accounting for no less than one third of online sales in
Belgium.

A 2016 survey in France by CCM Benchmark Institut showed that
cosmetics brands, consumer-to-consumer websites and general online
retailers like Amazon and Cdiscount were the most popular destinations
for online shoppers. The biggest sellers in cosmetics are face care
products, make-up and body care products. Customer reviews, up-to-
date stock information and a quick questionnaire to determine which
products best meet the consumer’s needs are deemed to be the most
useful services provided by online retailers.

                                          11
PRESENTATION OF THE SECTOR

    2 >>                                                             3 >>
    COMPANIES AND JOBS                                               EXPORTS

    In “Socio-economic contribution of the European cosmetics        Eurostat data pegged Belgian cosmetics exports at EUR 2.6
    industry”, a report published in June 2016, Cosmetics            billion in 2015. The following sections were taken into ac-
    Europe states that the cosmetics industry is a major             count:
    business driver throughout the value chain (see Section 2).      • 3303-Perfumes and toilet waters
                                                                     • 3304-Beauty or make-up preparations and prepara-
                                                                          tions for the care of the skin
    Companies                                                        • 3305-Preparations for the use on the hair
    More than 5000 companies are involved in the manufacture         • 3306-Preparations for oral or dental hygiene
    of cosmetics products in Europe. One of the strengths of         • 3307-Pre-shave, shaving or after-shave preparations,
    the industry is the coexistence of companies of all sizes.            personal deodorants, bath preparations, depilatories
    According to Euromonitor International (2015) data, there             and other perfumery, cosmetic or toilet preparations
    are 4605 SMEs in Europe. Italy, France and the United King-      • 3401-Soap.
    dom have the most company registrations.
                                                                     Cosmetics is part of the chemical, plastics and life sciences
    The following companies should be added to this:                 industry, which is the biggest exporting sector in Belgium ac-
    • More than a hundred cosmetics ingredients suppliers            counting for one third of total export (32.6% in 2015). The
       and packaging companies                                       three biggest subsectors are pharmaceuticals, organic
    • 20,100 wholesalers                                             chemicals and plastics, which jointly account for more than
    • 45,700 retail points of sale                                   three quarters of the sector’s total export. Cosmetics ac-
    • Between 400,000 and 500,000 hairdressers and beauty            count for 2.2% of the chemical, plastics and life sciences sec-
       salons                                                        tor, or 0.7% of total Belgian exports in 2015.

                                                                     Belgian cosmetics exports increased by 18.7% in 2015 com-
    Jobs                                                             pared to the previous year. It was the third year of consecutive
    The industry employs 179,000 people directly (including          growth after growth of 5.7% in 2013 and 10.1% in 2014.
    152,000 in manufacturing) and 1.55 million indirectly.
                                                                     Belgium is the 7th biggest cosmetics exporter in the EU, ac-
    In Belgium, according to National Social Security Office         counting for 6.0% of sales in 2015. France heads the ranking,
    statistics there were 5015 direct jobs on 30 June 2015.          followed at quite a distance by Germany and the United King-
                                                                     dom.
    There are 1989 jobs in production (NACE 20.42 Manufacture
    of perfumes and toilet preparations). 70% of them are based
    in Flanders, mainly in the province of Antwerp. Almost all       By continent
    the rest are based on Wallonia, especially in the provinces of   Belgian cosmetics exports are diversified. The share of Eu-
    Luxembourg (home to the L’Oréal plant) and Hainaut.              rope, which accounted for 79.3% of turnover worldwide in
                                                                     2010, had fell to 71.1% by 2015, with Asia, America and Africa
    The sale of cosmetics (code NACE 46.45 Wholesale of per-         all benefiting.
    fume and cosmetics) accounts for 3026 jobs in Belgium, of
    which 46% in Brussels, 37% in Flanders and 17% in Wallonia.

                                                          12
BELGIAN COSMETICS

FIGURE 4:                                                               FIGURE 6:
BELGIAN COSMETICS EXPORTS                                               BREAKDOWN OF BELGIAN EXPORTS PER
FROM 2010 TO 2015, IN EUR BILLIONS                                      CONTINENT IN 2010 AND 2015

  3                                                                                                     1.2%

 2.5
                                                                                                 8.2%
  2
                                                                                         9.2%
 1.5                                                                            2.1%

   1

 0.5                                                                                   10.8%            2010
          1.9         2.2     1.9      2.0    2.2        2.6
  0
                                                                                                               68.5%
        2010          2011   2012      2013   2014      2015

                                                     Source: Eurostat
                                                                                                        0.8%

                                                                                                13.7%

FIGURE 5:
                                                                                       11.5%
COSMETICS EXPORTS BY COUNTRY IN 2015
                                                                                                        2015
                                                                               2.9%
                                                                                                                 61.5%
                                                                                         9.5%

                                                     FRANCE

              11.8%                                  GERMANY
       4.5%                   27.4%                  UNITED KINGDOM
  6.0%
                                                     ITALY                                        EU-28

 6.1%                                                SPAIN                                        OTHER EUROPEAN COUNTRIES

                                                     POLAND                                       AFRICA
  6.9%

                               17.9%                 BELGIUM                                      AMERICA
         9.3%
                                                     NETHERLANDS                                  ASIA
                  10.1%
                                                     OTHERS                                       OCEANIA AND POLAR REGIONS

                                                     Source: Eurostat                                               Source: Eurostat

                                                             13
PRESENTATION OF THE SECTOR

    By country                                                                                                       By product
    The Netherlands was Belgium’s principle customer in 2015,                                                        Beauty, make-up and skin care products account for the li-
    accounting for 21% of Belgian cosmetics exports, worth EUR                                                       on’s share at 39.1%. This section (3304) generally covers
    560.6 million.                                                                                                   ‘skin care‘ and ‘decorative cosmetics’. ‘Hair care’ products
                                                                                                                     and ‘fragrances & perfumes’ place second and third, with
    The United States and Germany followed quite a long way                                                          18.6% and 18.3% respectively. The remaining 24% of Belgian
    behind, with 9.1% and 9.0% of sales respectively.                                                                exports are made up of body care products (shaving, shower
                                                                                                                     products, oral hygiene and soap), which correspond to ‘toi-
    France, which was Belgium’s second biggest customer in                                                           letries’ but also ‘skin care’.
    2010, dropped to fourth by 2015.

    FIGURE 7:                                                                                                        FIGURE 8:
    TOP 10 BELGIAN CUSTOMERS, IN EUR MILLIONS                                                                        BREAKDOWN OF EXPORTS BY PRODUCT CATEGORY
    (2010, 2015)                                                                                                     (2015)

                                                                                                           2010                                 5.2%
                                                                                                           2015                                        18.5%
                                                                                                                                      13.4%

    600                                                                                                                          5.1%

    500
                                                                                                                                     18.8%
                                                                                                                                                         39.1%

    400

    300

                                                                                                                              3303       PERFUMES AND TOILET WATERS
    200
                                                                                                                              3304       BEAUTY OR MAKE-UP PREPARATIONS
                                                                                                                                         AND PREPARATIONS FOR THE CARE
                                                                                                                                         OF THE SKIN
     100
                                                                                                                              3305       PREPARATIONS FOR THE USE
                                                                                                                                         ON THE HAIR

      0                                                                                                                       3306       PREPARATIONS FOR ORAL
                                                                                                                                         OR DENTAL HYGIENE
           NETHERLANDS

                         USA

                               GERMANY

                                         FRANCE

                                                  UNITED KINGDOM

                                                                   SWITZERLAND

                                                                                 RUSSIA

                                                                                          SPAIN

                                                                                                   ITALY

                                                                                                           POLAND

                                                                                                                              3307       PRE-SHAVE, SHAVING OR
                                                                                                                                         AFTER-SHAVE PREPARATIONS,
                                                                                                                                         PERSONAL DEODORANTS, BATH
                                                                                                                                         PREPARATIONS, DEPILATORIES AND
                                                                                                                                         OTHER PERFUMERY, COSMETIC
                                                                                                                                         OR TOILET PREPARATIONS

                                                                                                                              3401       SOAP

                                                                                                  Source: Eurostat                                                  Source: Eurostat

                                                                                                           14
BELGIAN COSMETICS

SECTION 2

BELGIUM’S
ADVANTAGES IN
THE VALUE CHAIN
                                                                    INPUTS TO
                                                                   PRODUCTION

The cosmetics industry value chain can be segmented into
five main stages.

The first one comprises the companies that provide the raw
materials required to make cosmetic products. These in-
                                                                                     MANUFACTURING
clude companies manufacturing the ingredients used in
the production of cosmetics, but also companies develop-
ing and manufacturing packaging components and R&D
activities (e.g. market research, product formulation and
industrial design).

The next step of the value chain (manufacturing) is made up
of manufacturers. Socio-economic benefits are created             DISTRIBUTION &
                                                                   WHOLESALE
through production, but also through supporting activities
(e.g. marketing and advertising, IT, accounting and legal
services and business administration).

The finished cosmetic product may then pass through dis-
tribution and/or wholesale.
                                                                                     RETAIL & BEAUTY
The final stage of the value chain involves the retail sale and                         SERVICES

purchase of cosmetics. End-consumers may buy cosmetic
products through a range of channels, including grocery
stores, supermarkets, department stores, pharmacies, on-
line stores and beauty salons. Beauty salons (e.g. nail sa-
lons, hair salons, spas, etc.) also purchase, use and sell
cosmetic products.
                                                                   CONSUMERS

The cosmetics industry is particularly well developed in
Belgium, where conditions are favourable throughout the
value chain. As a world-class chemical cluster (2.1), Bel-
gium is also an ideal test market (2.2) for cosmetics. The
country is very open to innovation (2.3), while imposing a
strict regulatory framework in accordance with EU require-
ments (2.4).

                                                                                      Source: Cosmetics Europe

                                                       15
PRESENTATION OF THE SECTOR

    1 >>
    BELGIUM, A WORLD-CLASS CHEMICALS CLUSTER

    Belgium is global leader in the chemical industry based on      EUROPEAN PIPELINE NETWORK
    turnover per inhabitant. Chemicals accounted for 32.6% of
    exports and 28.2% of imports in 2015. With the Port of Ant-                               ROTTERDAM

    werp as hub, Belgium is a world-class chemical cluster by                                           THE NETHERLANDS
                                                                                                                                        MARL

    size but also in terms of product diversity.                                                                             RHEINBERG

                                                                                        TERNEUZEN

                                                                          ANTWERP                     OLEN
                                                                                                             GEEL

    Like Houston, Singapore and Jubail, Antwerp is one of the
                                                                                                                TESSENDERLO
                                                                                    BELGIUM                       BERINGEN          LEVERKUSEN
                                                                                                MELSBROEK

    world’s most important petrochemicals complexes. Belgium                    LILLE
                                                                                                                GENK
                                                                                                                       SITTARD-GELEEN
                                                                                                                                         BONN
                                                                                              FELUY

    also has a huge pipeline network for the transmission of gas,                                   JEMEPPE-SUR-SAMBRE

    oil and other petrochemical products.                                        WAZIERS MAUBEUGE                                GERMANY
                                                                                                                                                FRANKFURT

                                                                                        FRANCE
    Belgium is home to several cosmetics ingredients suppliers,
    such as BASF, Dow Corning, EOC and Tensachem.
                                                                                                                              Source: Port of Antwerp

    2 >>
    BELGIUM, THE IDEAL TEST MARKET

    In Belgium the cosmetics industry is relatively dense, with     6 BELGIAN SEAPORTS
    a huge distribution network.
                                                                                ZEEBRUGGE
    Belgium is often felt to be the ideal test market, before en-
    tering other bigger, European markets, but also the perfect                            ANTWERP

    springboard for export. This also goes for cosmetics for
    several reasons.                                                                                          BRUSSELS

                                                                                OSTEND

    •   Belgium is a major logistical hub. A crossroads at the
        heart of Europe with six ports and five airports. It also                       GHENT
                                                                                                               LIÈGE

        has an extensive rail network, with 3000 km of tracks.
        High-speed trains connect Brussels with Amsterdam,
        Frankfurt, London and Paris.
                                                                                                                                        Source: ib.fgov.be
    •   Belgium is an outward-facing multilingual country, whose
        cosmopolitan capital Brussels is home to the NATO head-     5 BELGIAN AIRPORTS
        quarters and many EU and European institutions.
                                                                                                ✈
    •   Belgians have a lot of purchasing power. According to                              ANTWERP

        Cosmetics Europe, the average Belgian spent EUR 174                                                   ✈
                                                                                                              BRUSSELS
        on cosmetics in 2015, which is well above the EU aver-                      ✈
                                                                                                              NATIONAL AIRPORT

        age of EUR 124. Belgium is fourth highest in this rank-                 OSTEND

        ing, behind Sweden, the United Kingdom and Denmark.                                                       ✈
                                                                                                              BIERSET

    •   Industry experts say that Belgian cosmetics consumers
        adopt “average” behaviour, getting through 18g per day.                                       ✈
                                                                                            CHARLEROI
        They are also well informed and act in full knowledge of                          (Brussels South)

        the facts.
                                                                                                                                        Source: ib.fgov.be

                                                         16
BELGIAN COSMETICS

For these reasons, many large brands have opened a produc-
tion plant and/or a distribution centre in Belgium, including
L’Oréal (France), Unilever (UK), Beiersdorf (Germany),
Procter & Gamble (US), Estée Lauder (US), Henkel (Germany)
and Johnson & Johnson (US).

3 >>
BELGIUM, FOCUSED ON INNOVATION

One major advantage of cosmetics production in Belgium is
its particularly innovative nature, a real trademark of the
country.                                                            ULG:
                                                                    MASTER SPECIALISED IN COSMETOLOGY
Many Belgian companies work anonymously for house                   www.ulg.ac.be
brands. There are innovations at product level (creativity in
formulations, textures) and at manufacturing level, especial-       The aim of this master’s degree is to train professionals
ly in terms of sustainable development.                             who are able to design, manufacture and test cosmetics.
                                                                    Given that they are applied directly to the skin, these
Several Belgian universities offer courses linked to cosmet-        products must meet extremely stringent requirements.
ics and cosmetology. As such, Belgium helps talented young-         Ingredients are tested, the manufacturing process moni-
sters get a start in the industry, creating a pool of experts for   tored, finished products evaluated and their safety for
employers.                                                          humans and the environment is checked. This master’s
                                                                    degree therefore covers the legal, technical and scientific
                                                                    aspects of the ever-changing cosmetics industry.

                                                                    ULB:
                                                                    MASTER’S DEGREE IN BIOMEDICAL SCIENCES
                   Meeting evolving consumer                        DERMOPHARMACY AND COSMETOLOGY
            demands and remaining competitive                       www.ulb.ac.be/facs/pharma/cosmetologie
               in a fast-changing and globalised
                                                                    The European cosmetics industry is the global leader
             world demands constant innovation,
                                                                    whose highly innovative products are widely used by con-
                  and in this respect we stand                      sumers. Given the increasing complexity of regulatory
                out. We are science-driven and                      constraints in the field of cosmetics ingredients and fin-
                our investment in R&D remains                       ished products, trained specialists are needed.

                   substantial. This relentless
                                                                    This master’s degree is offered by the ULB’s Faculty of
                commitment to innovation helps                      Pharmacy in association with the ULB’s Faculty of Medi-
                ensure that product design and                      cine and the Faculty of Medicine and Pharmacy of the
                safety are in a state of constant                   University of Liege (ULG). It is also supported by visiting
                                                                    professors from research centres and the cosmetics,
             evolution, and consequently, that we
                                                                    pharmaceutical and chemical industries.
            continue to generate growth and jobs
                                in the EU.
                        John Chave, Director-General,
               Cosmetics Europe, Annual Report 2015 (June 2016)

                                                            17
PRESENTATION OF THE SECTOR

                                                               4 >>
     VUB:                                                      BELGIUM, A STRICT REGULATORY
     DEPARTMENT OF TOXICOLOGY, DERMATO-                        FRAMEWORK
     COSMETOLOGY AND PHARMACOGNOSY (FAFY)
     www.ecopa.eu                                              Cosmetics products sold in Belgium and the European Union
     minf.vub.ac.be                                            are subject to very strict regulation. They are among the most
                                                               stringently regulated products, which provides consumers
     The Department of Toxicology, Dermato-Cosmetology         with guarantees as to their safety for humans. This is a con-
     and Pharmacognosy (FAFY) is part of the Faculty of        siderable advantage on export markets.
     Medicine and Pharmacy of the Vrije Universiteit Brussel
     (VUB). Headed by professor Vera Rogiers, the depart-      Cosmetics manufactured and sold in the European Union are
     ment works in two main research domains: toxicologi-      subject to EU Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 of the European
     cal research, based on experimental in vitro toxicology   Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cos-
     and dermo-cosmetic research, covering various as-         metic products. 2016 marked the fortieth anniversary of the
     pects of measuring the efficacy and safety of cosmetic    legislation, harmonised at EU level. It has proven to be an
     and dermatological products and their formulations.       effective mechanism. The last health crisis in the European
                                                               cosmetics industry was a long, long time ago.
     The FAFY team is an active member of several Belgian
     and European associations in domains connected with       In Belgium, the EU regulation is supplemented by the Royal
     the department’s scientific research and knowhow. At      Decree of 17 July 2012. The FPS Health, Food Chain Safety
     European level, Vera Rogiers is co-president of SCCP      and Environment is the body responsible for ensuring the EU
     (Scientific Committee on Consumer Products), a mem-       regulation is complied with in Belgium. Cosmetics manufac-
     ber of the EPAA (European Partnership for Alternative     turers in Belgium must also notify the FPS of their activities
     Approaches to Animal Testing) mirror group, a member      every two years.
     of ESAC (ECVAM Scientific Advisory Committee) and co-
     ordinator and research partner on several European        Some points in this regulatory framework:
     projects.

     The department holds regular national and internation-    Responsible person
     al scientific conferences, workshops and symposia. In     A responsible person (a natural person or a legal entity) in
     addition, the department is a breeding ground for Ph.D.   the European Union must be designated for every cosmetic
     and post-doc research as a large number of master’s       product. This ensures the conformity of the product and com-
     and Ph.D. theses have been successful defended over       pliance with other legal obligations. The responsible person
     the past decade.                                          must register the product on the European Commission’s
                                                               Cosmetic Products Notification Portal (CPNP). The responsi-
     Every year, the department hosts two dermo-cosmetics      ble person can be the manufacturer, the importer, a distribu-
     courses that enjoy international recognition for their    tor or another authorised person.
     high quality and professional knowledge:
     • “Safety Assessment of Cosmetics in the EU”
         (www.safetycourse.eu)                                 European cosmetics file
     • “Intensive Course in Dermato-Cosmetic Sciences”         Drawn up and submitted to the relevant authorities by the
         (www.dermatocosmeticcourse.eu).                       responsible person, the file on the cosmetic product must
                                                               contain the following information:

                                                               •   The manufacturing method and a statement of compli-
                                                                   ance with Best Manufacturing Practices (compliance
                                                                   with the EN ISO 22716:2007 standard confers an as-
                                                                   sumption of conformity)

                                                      18
BELGIAN COSMETICS

•   The safety report on the cosmetic product drawn up by       The responsible person may be contacted at the address
    a person with a university-level European qualification     stated on the product label or at the contact points stated in
    as a pharmacist, toxicologist or doctor or in an analo-     the European Directory of Public Access (www.european-
    gous discipline                                             cosmetics.info/en/).
•   Proof of claimed effects, even if these are self-evident.

Composition
The EU regulation restricts the composition of cosmetics
products and includes:                                                       European cosmetics legislation, which is now in its
• A list of banned ingredients (appendix II)                                 40th year, is a model for the world, helping both to
• A list of restricted substances (appendix III)
                                                                              ensure consumers are properly protected and to
• The lists of authorised colouring agents, preservatives
    and ultraviolet filters (appendices IV-VI).                                                facilitate trade in the EU.
                                                                                         John Chave, Director-General, Cosmetics Europe,
                                                                                                 Annual Report 2015 (June 2016)
Labelling
The following statements must be included on the label of
the cosmetic products:
• Name and address of the responsible person
• Nominal content (quantity)                                                   We continue to encourage others to use the EU
• Special user precautions (stated on the label at least in                    Cosmetics Regulation as an inspiration for their
    the language or languages of the region in which the
                                                                             own legislation and are pleased to note that many
    product is sold)
• Ingredients in their common EU INCI designation, as                        emerging markets, including ASEAN, Russia, Latin
    stated in the CosIng database                                                  America and China, have indeed done so.
• Product function unless it is self-evident (stated on the
                                                                              Gerald Renner, Director Technical Regulatory Affairs, Cosmetics Europe,
    label at least in the language or languages of the region                                    Annual Report 2015 (June 2016)
    in which the product is sold)
• Manufacturing lot number
• Use before date: “best before end…” for products with a
    shelf life of less than 30 months
• Period within which the product must be used after
    opening, expressed in months, for products with a shelf
    life of less than 30 months.                                For more information
                                                                • Directorate General for Internal Market, Industry,
                                                                   Entrepreneurship and SMEs:
Supplementary information                                          ec.europa.eu/growth/sectors/cosmetics
Consumers can get more detailed information from the            • FPS Health, Food Chain Safety and Environment:
party responsible for bringing the product to market:              www.health.belgium.be (French or Dutch only)
• Qualitative composition of the cosmetic product
• Concentration of certain ingredients
• Frequency and nature of reported undesirable effects

                                                     19
PRESENTATION OF THE SECTOR

    SECTION 4

    STAKEHOLDERS

    1 >>
    OFFICIAL ORGANISATIONS

    FPS Foreign Affairs
    Economic diplomacy is one of the basic missions of the FPS Foreign Affairs, which – operating
    within the current constitutional framework and taking account of the other stakeholders in
    the field – strives to promote Belgian economic interests abroad. It does this in a number of
    ways. For example, the FPS Foreign Affairs supports Belgian businesses in their international
    activities, with e.g. the economic missions of HRH Princess Astrid as representative of His
    Majesty the King and, increasingly, visits by the King provide substantial support to Belgian
    economic interests abroad.

    We also promote Belgium internationally as a good place to do business. By actively
    participating in international forums such as the World Economic Forum, arranging bilateral
    visits and taking multilateral action in international organisations, the FPS Foreign Affairs
    aims to showcase the Belgian economy.

                                                                         diplomatie.belgium.be/en

    Flanders Investment & Trade, AWEX and Brussels Invest & Export each promote their own
    region: Flanders, Wallonia and Brussels. Their main assignments are threefold, which they
    are each free to achieve in their own way:

    •   To support exporters from the region
    •   To inform, prospect for and advise potential foreign investors
    •   To promote the region abroad

    Alongside tax incentives, Belgian regions also grant companies significant financial incentives
    for recruitment, training, R&D, investment, consultancy and environmental protection.

                                                         20
BELGIAN COSMETICS

Flanders Investment & Trade
Flanders Investment & Trade (FIT) promotes international enterprise in Flanders in a
sustainable way as a key factor in the social and economic development of our region. FIT
does so by supporting the international activities of Flemish companies and by attracting
foreign investors to Flanders. FIT assists, supports and stimulates companies in international
business. FIT offers tailored advice and guidance. Companies can call on its networks of
contacts both at home and abroad. And FIT gives financial support and information on a wide
range of financial incentives.

Flanders has many assets for ambitious Flemish enterprises and SMEs as well as for
interested international companies. For Flemish companies, its region is a perfect gateway.
For them, FIT tries to lower the threshold to doing business abroad. FIT promotes its services,
provides information and knowledge about export and offers networking opportunities
between entrepreneurs and brings them into contact with potential partners abroad.

Flanders is a pole of attraction for foreign companies: thanks to its central location in Europe,
its strongly developed infrastructure, its innovative clusters and numerous other strengths.
FIT tries to give them worldwide publicity. FIT adopts a tailored approach to potential
investors and convinces them of the opportunities for their company in Flanders. Furthermore,
FIT focus on existing investors in Flanders planning to expand their businesses.

Innovative clusters are of key importance to Flanders as a knowledge region. FIT helps these
clusters in their internationalization process and tries to attract foreign investors capable of
strengthening the cluster to grow into a major international player.

                        www.flandersinvestmentandtrade.com I www.investinflanders.com

AWEX
The Wallonia Export - Investment Agency (AWEX) offers general expertise in international
economic relations. This expertise ranges from promoting Walloon exports through to
seeking foreign investment (helping find suitable sites, explaining support measures and tax
rules, and providing information on recruitment and staff training, project funding, etc).
AWEX also provides a range of services to all Walloon businesses seeking to operate at
international level. However it is also the partner of choice for all buyers, importers and
foreign prospects who are looking for a partner in Wallonia and wanting to find products,
equipment, technologies or services in the area.

Outside of Belgium, AWEX can rely on an international network of 109 financial and business
attachés, covering more than 120 markets and some 20 international organisations. These
representatives are the key contacts locally for any business or public body wishing to
develop a business or a partnership relationship with Wallonia or simply wanting to find out
about the economic potential of such a relationship.

At Walloon level, AWEX’s main partners are the competitiveness and technological clusters
in particular.

                                                     www.awex.be I www.investinwallonia.be

                                                      21
PRESENTATION OF THE SECTOR

    Brussels Invest & Export
    Brussels Invest & Export works to promote foreign trade, assists Brussels companies, and
    attracts foreign investors to Brussels. It has built a database to help foreign investors with a
    specific project in mind find business partners in Brussels. Brussels Export has a foreign
    network of some 88 economic and trade attachés. Some of these are shared with FIT or AWEX.

    Invest in Brussels specifically offers companies the opportunity to test Brussels as a business
    location for three months, providing them with free office space, secretarial services, facilities
    and professional advice from experts on suitable locations, support facilities, sector-related
    issues and legislation at Brussels and federal level, etc.

                                      www.brusselsinvestexport.be I www.investinbrussels.com

    2 >>
    COSMETICS INDUSTRY BODIES

    essenscia
    essenscia, the Belgian Federation for Chemistry and Life Sciences industries, represents the
    interests of over 700 companies active in the fields of chemicals and life sciences.

    With a turnover of EUR 64.3 billion, the chemical and pharma sector represents one fourth
    of the entire Belgian industry and employs 90,000 people. Chemicals, plastics and life
    sciences are the top export products of the country, representing a third of total Belgian
    exports.

    This industry is also the most innovative sector of Belgium with EUR 3.6 billion in R&D-
    expenditures in 2015, representing nearly 60% of all the R&D in the manufacturing industry.
    This sector is highly diversified yet homogeneous covering a large range of products such as
    base chemicals, agrochemicals, plastics, paints & varnishes, detergents, drugs and vaccines
    as well as cosmetics and soaps.

    Belgium is the number one chemical country in the world on a per capita basis. Belgium is
    also a world leader in pharmaceuticals and biotechnology which alone accounts for 10% of
    all Belgian exports.

                                                                              www.essenscia.be/en

                                                           22
BELGIAN COSMETICS

DETIC
DETIC is the Belgo-Luxembourg Association of producers and distributors of cosmetics,
hygiene products and toiletries.

As the mouthpiece for its sectors in Belgium and the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg, DETIC
works to create and maintain a positive and sustainable image of its industries. Its central
mission is to support, accompany and advise its members on the ‘responsible’ way to bring
their products, services and solutions to market. DETIC provides expertise on regulatory and
technical issues as well as in the field of communication and sustainable development.

The sector consists of many companies of differing sizes, ranging from major international
organisations to small and medium-sizeda enterprises. In 2015, DETIC had 56 members in the
cosmetics sector who recorded a turnover of around EUR 800 million on the Belgo-Luxembourg
market. DETIC publishes a code of advertising and commercial communication that maps out
practices in the sector in Belgium.

                                                                                      www.detic.be

Cosmetics Europe
Cosmetics Europe - The Personal Care Association has been the voice of Europe’s EUR 70
billion (excluding exports) Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Industry since 1962. Cosmetics
Europe represents the interests of more than 4.500 companies, ranging from major
international cosmetics manufacturers to small, family-run businesses operating in niche
markets. In 2015, direct and indirect employment in the European cosmetics industry was
approximately 2 million people.

As the industry’s European trade association, Cosmetics Europe’s membership consists of
large active and supporting international companies and active national associations. The
national associations represent both the major international cosmetics manufacturers active
in that country as well as national SMEs.

                                                                      www.cosmeticseurope.eu

                 […] Our industry continued to adapt to meet the needs of a changing world. A combination
                  of factors such as globalisation, digitalisation and the need for greater sustainability are
                   reshaping consumer behaviour with regard to cosmetics and personal care products. In
                  response to changing needs and expectations, we have to continue to deliver products of
                   the highest quality and safety, while remaining acutely conscious of the need to protect
                                            resources. Our industry cannot stand still […]

                                    John Chave, Director-General, Cosmetics Europe, Annual Report 2015 (June 2016)

                                                      23
SUCCESS STORIES
     IN BELGIUM
SUCCESS STORIES IN BELGIUM

                                                                  INTERVIEW WITH
                                                                  Tom Heyblom, General Manager
                                                                  and Alfred Bellemans, Plant Manager

              COMPANY

        Anhairco
               REGION

            Flanders

      Belgian family company

Founded in 1925, production capacity
           began in 1992

Two sites: Aartselaar (salon supplies)
        and Olen (production)

             Turnover:                                          We can mass
            EUR 7 million                                 produce, but we can just
                                                          as well run off 500 pieces
           40 employees
                                                            of a specific product.
  Export: Active in the Netherlands
 since 1988 and subsequently other
         European countries
                                         Anhairco is a 100% Belgian family        tion unit to combine the two sites. That
                                         business that was formed way back in     ensures we are ready for the future.”
   Export share in turnover: 50%         1925. Originally a scissors and razor-
                                         blade business, Anhairco now imports     In Olen the firm manages the whole
                                         salon supplies and manufactures cos-     chain, from development to produc-
    Eco and organic certification
                                         metic products, distributing both in     tion. “Flexibility is key at Anhairco,”
              (BDIH)                     Europe. The salon supplies depart-       says Heyblom. “We are active almost
                                         ment in Aartselaar has more than five    across the board in cosmetics, with
          Biocide certified              thousand references, while cosmetics     hair, skin and even pet products. The
                                         has its own production unit in Olen.     only thing we don’t produce is make-
                                                                                  up, as this requires a special tech-
                                                                                  nique.”Anhairco can also fill just about
                                         FLEXIBILITY IS KEY                       anything, from small ampoules to
                                                                                  large bottles and even bulk. “Our staff
                                         The cosmetics business was set up in     is trained to convert production lines
                                         1992 following the acquisition and ex-   quickly to the customer’s orders. We
                                         pansion of a production company. An-     can mass produce, but we can just as
                                         hairco made its biggest investment so    well run off 500 pieces of a specific
                                         far in 2004, acquiring a company man-    product,” adds plant manager Alfred
                                         ufacturing private label face and body   Bellemans. This approach generates a
                                         care products. “It complemented our      variety of customers, from supermar-
                                         business perfectly,” says Tom Heyb-      ket chain Aldi to start-ups that find it
                                         lom, general manager. “So we imme-       hard to predict how well their product
                                         diately decided to build a new produc-   will sell.

                                                  26
BELGIAN COSMETICS

Some customers have a good idea of          of our customers to put together a          market. “We have been active abroad
precisely what they want, others draw       product information file for every          before, but this is the first time we have
on Anhairco’s knowledge and experi-         product they bring to market. Many of       gone to work in such a targeted way,”
ence. In either case, the search for a      them are not active in that sphere. We      says Heyblom. “The Dutch customers
new product begins in the laboratory.       can assist them to ensure they are          are more enterprising, too, and will
“We will then get to work on develop-       able to market safe products that           start projects sooner,” adds Alfred Bel-
ing a new formula or base ourselves         comply with all laws.”                      lemans. “They take more calculated
on a formula we developed earlier and                                                   risks and think ahead a bit more.”
adapt it to suit the customer. Samples      Around 80% of production is destined
will be produced and the test phase         for private labels, but Anhairco also       That said, neither man regrets the fact
will begin. We will be ready for produc-    has two house brands, Corona Profes-        that they are located in Belgium. “We
tion between six and twelve months          sional and Scarlett. These are includ-      are well integrated and we have built
down the line,” says Bellemans.             ed in the wide range of salon supplies      name awareness and a good reputa-
                                            through the company’s other busi-           tion. In a context that has seen a lot of
                                            ness. “Almost every wholesaler in Bel-      colleagues disappear, we are proud
CUSTOMER SUPPORT                            gium and the Netherlands has salon          that we are still standing firm as a
                                            supplies from the Anhairco range.           Belgian producer.” The company es-
Heyblom explains that Anhairco does         That means that our hair products           pecially relies for support on Detic,
not aim to be the cheapest, but to dif-     reach a large group of consumers.”          which represents the sector and gives
ferentiate itself from its international                                                advice on legislation. And if a raw ma-
competitors based on the constant                                                       terial is in short supply competitors in
quality of its products. “The tests take    BELGIAN SUPPORT                             the vicinity show their solidarity. The
a good three to four months. We guar-                                                   north-east of Antwerp is fertile ground
antee that the formula is stable and        The Netherlands is roughly as impor-        for companies in the industry. “There’s
will not discolour or settle, for in-       tant as Belgium for the company. With       a reason why our region is known as
stance. We have seen customers go to        that in mind, Anhairco is currently roll-   Cosmetic Valley,” laughs Heyblom.
foreign producers, but we have also         ing out a two-year communication
seen them come back. It is already dif-     plan to search for opportunities in the     www.anhairco.be
ficult to make a product once, but the
real challenge is getting the same
high quality in every production run.”

“Good communication and service are                         We have seen customers go to foreign
also hugely important,” says Heyblom.                      producers, but we have also seen them
Anhairco always enters into a dialogue
with its customers to achieve the right                    come back. It is already difficult to make
product together. But support can be                        a product once, but the real challenge
provided even after the product has
been delivered. “It is the responsibility
                                                           is getting the same high quality in every
                                                                        production run.

                                                      27
SUCCESS STORIES IN BELGIUM

                                                       INTERVIEW WITH
                                                       Michel Knops, CEO

         COMPANY

     Codibel
          REGION

       Wallonia

      Creation: 1964

       Place: Seneffe

       30 employees

   Consolidated turnover:
       EUR 6 million

       Growth: > 10%

                            Established in Brussels in 1964, Codi-       the health and beauty sector. The mot-
                            bel relocated to Zaventem a few years        to is simple: we make what you sell.
                            later, before settling in Seneffe, in        The company is specialised in hair
                            Wallonia. “As a matter of interest, the      care, skin care and oral hygiene and
                            first stone of our present building was      the customer base includes wholesal-
                            laid on the day Lehman Brothers went         ers, hairdressers, beauticians and
                            bust,” says Michel Knops. “Codibel fi-       medical/paramedical organisations
                            nalised the biggest investment in its        such as pharmacies and hospitals.

                                       Selling abroad is written into every
                                            Belgian company’s genes.

                            history at a time when the global            Besides its ‘private label’ activity, Cod-
                            economy had just experienced great           ibel also develops a range of in-house
                            upheaval.”                                   brands for hair care products: Kursaal,
                                                                         Labo Oily, Lagrange, Intensive Hair
                            Codibel is active in all three federal re-   Care, Color Revive, Color Defence…
                            gions and feels very much at home in
                            Belgium. “Wallonia is particularly wel-
                            coming. The investment aid system,           EXPORTING IS IN
                            coupled with available subsidies, is         BELGIUM’S DNA
                            very effective”.
                                                                         “Given the limited size of the Belgian
                            Codibel offers a one-stop solution           market it appears crucial for SMEs to
                            from conception to market through            quickly take on an international di-
                            creative sustainable partnerships in         mension in order to continue to grow.

                                      28
BELGIAN COSMETICS

Selling abroad is written into every
Belgian company’s genes,” says
                                                                Economic performance must be paired
Michel Knops.                                                   with social and environmental progress.
                                                                 Sustainability is the only way forward.
It is hard to quantify Codibel’s foreign
presence. “We have a direct presence
abroad through the export of our own
brands, but also indirectly through         and the EU regulation on cosmetic           ble products in terms of packaging,
customers we work for under con-            products. “At first glance it is very re-   product and manufacturing process.
tract,” says Michel Knops. As well as       strictive for modestly sized manufac-       “Sustainability remains today more a
Europe, products from our Seneffe           turers like us, but, when all is said and   matter of motivation than obligation.
plant can be found in Canada, the           done, we are able to market state-of-       However, it is close to our hearts and
United States, Brazil, Australia, China,    the-art products that are highly per-       we want to use it as a means of differ-
Taiwan and Hong Kong, which is proof        formant from a technical and scientif-      entiating ourselves,” says Michel
of their acceptance and recognition at      ic point of view”.                          Knops.
global level.
                                            Michel Knops says that it is a plus         “Economic performance must be
Codibel regularly joins economic            Codibel can highlight when prospect-        paired with social and environmental
missions with AWEX and takes part in        ing for new customers abroad. “In an        progress. Sustainability is the only way
many trade fairs and shows. Michel          ultra-competitive environment char-         forward. Our choice has been to privi-
Knops feels that Codibel still has room     acterised by outstanding French and         lege inspiration over competition for a
for development in terms of visibility.     Italian companies in particular, we         stronger community and a healthier
“As one of our priorities, our strategic    must be innovative and original if we       way to do business. This ambitious ob-
international development plan is built     are to differentiate ourselves and cre-     jective enables us to pursue our devel-
on an ambition to switch from sporadic      ate added value and jobs. Our lead          opment in a responsible manner,
to structured exports.” The company         over the competition outside the EU in      which surpasses pure financial con-
will initially focus efforts on bordering   terms of regulation could prove inval-      siderations. At the same time our pri-
countries within the European Union,        uable.”                                     ority remains fulfilling customer satis-
which have the advantage of being                                                       faction by supplying products destined
harmonised at regulatory and                                                            to be widely consumed without re-
monetary level (no exchange risk in         SUSTAINABILITY:                             striction, and allowing our employees
the euro zone).                             AN ISSUE FOR THE                            to participate actively in a ‘responsi-
                                            FUTURE                                      ble-citizen’ attitude, which we all hope
                                                                                        will transcend future generations.”
A HIGHLY REGULATED                          The Seneffe plant was built using sus-
INDUSTRY                                    tainable materials, ensuring excellent      Michel Knops ends by giving his own
                                            insulation among other things. It has       definition of sustainability, formulated
The cosmetics industry is one of the        more than 500 solar panels, which           as a goal for Codibel: “Developing and
most closely supervised and tightly         cover 50% of its own power needs and        selling cosmetic products that fulfil
controlled in Belgium. It is also one of    minimises its carbon emissions. It is       the expectations of people today with-
the most regulated. Fortunately, com-       also connected to the new industrial        out jeopardizing the ability of future
panies are well informed and support-       water collection network, with a purifi-    generations to meet their own needs.”
ed by both the national (DETIC) and EU      cation station just a few steps away
(Cosmetics Europe) federations.             from the site. Rainwater is harvested,
                                            stored and recycled for sanitary use        www.codibel.be
In the European Union, the cosmetics        and in a closed circuit for cooling pro-
industry is governed by two main            duction vessels.
blocks of legislation: REACH (registra-
tion, evaluation, authorisation and re-     Codibel now wants to take the next
striction of chemicals) for ingredients     step and develop a range of sustaina-

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SUCCESS STORIES IN BELGIUM

                                                   INTERVIEW WITH
                                                   Maurice Bertrand, founder and consultant

         COMPANY

   Cosmebel              A FAMILY                                   SAFE, HIGH-QUALITY
                         ADVENTURE                                  AND EFFECTIVE
          REGION
                         For almost 30 years, Cosmebel, a           All Cosmebel products contain an in-
       Brussels          family business, has been active in a      gredient developed in-house by the
                         niche cosmetics market: care for dark      company: an active vegetable extract
                         skinned people. This segment only          that comes from Asian plants. “It is
     Formation: 1989     makes up about 2% of the global mar-       essential that we only use ingredients
                         ket. Cosmebel is involved in bringing      that do no harm to the skin.”
                         many different skincare products to
      Place: Brussels
                         market, both its own product range         The company is very keen to protect
                         and third-party brands custom-pro-         the reputation of its skincare brand.
       8 employees       duced at its specialised plants. “Our      When poor-quality copies have threat-
                         company is a real family,” explains        ened one of its products, Cosmebel
                         Maurice Bertrand. “I formed the com-       has withdrawn it and launched a new
     Export share: 85%
                         pany in 1989, based on my extensive        range. The company also rules out
                         experience of the pharmaceuticals in-      working with partners that are not too
     Turnover in 2015:   dustry and trade with Africa. My goal is   particular about efficacy.
      EUR 2.5 million    to meet the growing demand for trust-
                         worthy products to treat pigment           “This commitment does not affect
                         spots, and lighten and unify the com-      pricing: we remain competitive,” says
                         plexion. The first care product won a      Maurice Bertrand. Cosmebel develops
                         prize at the Salon des Inventeurs in       and markets skincare products for all
                         1991 and the range has been improved       budgets: Nutriclair-branded products
                         and added to ever since.” Cosmebel         for the mass market, Clear Sensation,
                         now has eight employees and practi-        a mid-price series, and Klaris, a more
                         cally the whole family is involved.        luxurious range of no fewer than ten
                                                                    skincare products that is coming onto

                                  The company is very keen to protect
                                  the reputation of its skincare brand.

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