Best Of Reykjavík 2019 - The Reykjavik Grapevine
←
→
Page content transcription
If your browser does not render page correctly, please read the page content below
1
Special Issue Spring Edition
The Reykjavík Grapevine
Best of Reykjavík 2019
The City Awards grapevine.is/bestof
Best Of
Reykjavík 2019
Dining Drinking Shopping Activities
The 60 Best Eateries The 30 Best Bars Our 30 Shop Awards The 30 Funnest Outings
Meet Your New Systir Essential Cocktails Must-Read New Books Six Luxury Getaways
Winter
Scheduled Flights / Six destinations
Westman Islands
One of the wonders of nature,
surrounded by mountains,
islands, volcanoes and seabirds. Gjögur Húsavík
Vatnajökull Region Bíldudalur
Witness the majestic power
of Europe’s largest glacier or
conquer Iceland’s highest peak.
North Iceland
Visit Húsavík, the whale watching
capital, and witness the natural
wonders of North Iceland.
Höfn
The Westfjords Reykjavík
Explore one of the country’s
most isolated regions, rich
in natural wonders.
Vestmannaeyjar
For more information, pick up our brochure at your hotel
or local tourist information centre, or visit eagleair.is
eagleair.is | +354 562 4200 | info@eagleair.is
Location: Behind Icelandair Hotel Reykjavík Natura at Reykjavík Airport
Six destinations with year-round
possibilities, air charter services
and day tours to Iceland’s most
beautiful places
Day Tours / Adventure Tours
Glacier Lagoons on Your Own Mývatn on Your Own
Day tours to the famous Glacier lagoon and Exploring the Lake Mývatn area and
Europe’s largest glacier, Vatnajökull Glacier. the natural wonders of North Iceland.
Day Tours to the Westman Islands Ice Caves and the Diamond Beach
These tours takes you from Reykjavík to the volcano Explore the thrilling ice caves of Vatnajökull
island of Heimaey in the Westman Islands archipelago. and Jökulsárlón’s glittering diamond beach.
4
Best of Reykjavík:
Best of Reykjavík 2019
The Reykjavík Grapevine
DINING 8
+ Meet Hi Noodle, a new ramen champ P:20
+ Save the date: where to take your Tinder P:22
AN INTRODUCTION DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE 24
+ Six incredible cocktails: don't mind if we do P:28
Asking The Real + Whisky weather: any time can be Suntory time P:30
Big Questions
As the dense firework fog of the 2019 derful activities that this little subarc-
New Year blowout cleared, we at The tic city has to offer. We hope you’ll find
Reykjavík Grapevine turned our minds it interesting and useful. We’d love to
to some of the big questions of the hear what you think—feel free to let
year ahead. No, not “Will Trump be us know if you tried out our choic-
impeached?”—we’re talking about es via Twitter (@rvkgrapevine) or
the REAL big questions, like “Where grapevine@grapevine.is.
SHOPPING 34
in Reykjavík serves the best burger?” While you’re meandering around + Sweet products made from natural ingredients P:38
and “Which bar has the best cocktail town, be sure to pick up a copy of our + All the best new Icelandic literature translations P:40
in town?” flagship publication, The Reykjavík
And so, we summoned a fine new Grapevine—it’s packed with news, cul-
vintage of expert panellists from the ture and the town’s top events. If you
far reaches of the city. They travelled see a copy of the Best of Iceland sister
through dangers untold and hardships magazine lying around, that’ll help you
unnumbered to convene in the heart of plan a trip into the countryside. And
101 and share their sacred knowledge of if you skipped the duty free, our Appy
vegan food, craft beers, obscure galler- Hour app is available for Android and
ies and hidden emporia. iPhone to help you drink on the cheap.
The result is the magazine you’re ACTIVITIES 48
holding. Our Best of Reykjavík 2019 Stay frosty.
is an in-depth guide to best eateries, John Rogers, Editor + Find out what the locals get up to P:44
drinking holes, weird shops and won- + Luxury hotels for a perfect countryside getaway P:46
PUBLISHER BEST OF DINING FACT CHECKING SALES DIRECTORS Þórhildur Tinna Best of Reykjavík
Hilmar Steinn COMPILED BY Valur Grettisson Aðalsteinn Jörundsson Sigurðardóttir by The Reykjavík
Grétarsson Helgi Harðarson adalsteinn@grapevine.is Björk Hrafnsdóttir Grapevine is published
Shruthi Basappa
hilmar@grapevine.is Catharine Fulton by Fröken ltd. Nothing
BEST OF REY- BEST OF DRINKING &
Helgi Þór Harðarson SHOPPING
+354 540 3601 in this magazine may
KJAVIK 2019 EDITORIAL helgi@grapevine.is Álfrún Pálsdóttir
publisher@grapevine.is NIGHTLIFE COMPILED BY be reproduced in whole
Spring 2019 Edition by John Rogers +354 540 3600 DISTRIBUTION Kristbjörg Lára
or in part without the
BEST OF EDITOR editor@grapevine.is distribution@grapevine.is Gunnarsdóttir
John Rogers BEST OF SHOPPING written permission of
Freyja Eilíf
COMPILED BY ADVERTISING the publishers. The
john@grapevine.is Magnús Hreggviðsson
Hannah Jane Cohen +354 540 3604 PANELS Best of Reykjavík is
GRAPEVINE EDITOR +354 540 3610 DINING ACTIVITIES distributed around
IN CHIEF BEST OF ACTIVITIES ads@grapevine.is Ólafur Sverrir
Hafnarstræti 15, 101 Reykjavík Ragnar Egilsson Reykjavík.
Valur Grettisson COMPILED BY Traustason
www.grapevine.is Ragnheidur Axel
valur@grapevine.is Phil Uwe Widiger CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Maria-Carmela Raso
Elizabeth Lay No articles in the
grapevine@grapevine.is Rex Beckett James Cox
ART DIRECTOR PROOFREADING Dröfn Ösp Snorradóttir- Reykjavík Grapevine
Hannah Jane Cohen Jasa Baka
Published by Fröken ehf. Sveinbjörn Pálsson Catharine Fulton Rozas are paid-for articles.
Anisha Chandar
Printed by Ísafold sveinbjorn@grapevine.is COVER ART The opinions expressed
DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE
in 25,000 copies.
Siggi Odds -
CONTRIBUTING are the writers’ own, not
PHOTO EDITOR Alexander Jean De
Member of the Icelandic siggiodds.com
PHOTOGRAPHERS the advertisers’.
Art Bicnick Fontenay
Travel Industry Association Art Bicnick
art@grapevine.is Gabriel B. Bachmann - Jessica Bowe
www.saf.is Timothée Lambrecq
gabrielbachmann.com Colm O’Herlihy
5
The Reykjavík Grapevine
Best of Reykjavík 2019
ICELANDIC SEAFOOD
MAKES WORLD’S BEST SUSHI
SOCIALIZE
WITH THE
LOCALS
The best of Icelandic produce with
a nod to Japan and South America.
Modern Icelandic flavours, share plates
and award winning cocktails.
Our kitchen is open
SUSHI SOCIAL
17.00–23.00 sun.–thu. Þingholtsstræti 5 • 101 Reykjavík
17.00–24.00 fri.–sat. Tel. 568 6600 • sushisocial.is
THE AWARDS:
6
How We
Best of Reykjavík 2019
The Reykjavík Grapevine
Picked the
Winners
The word “conclusion’’ is a little strong enthusiast. We’re not saying those two
in this case. We have argued, fought and groups can’t overlap. Maybe they can.
interviewed panels, tried blind taste- Jazz people are good at improvising and
tests, and, in one case, consulted what noise music definitely needs more fans.
we believe to be an oracle. This was not The thing is, this is a guide. It’s a
an easy or scientific endeavour. work in progress. It’s an attempt at
The best comparison is glíma, or letting people know where we think
Icelandic wrestling. It’s not flashy or they should go. We didn’t all agree on
well produced like WWE. It’s not ex- everything, so the runners up could end
actly graceful like Olympic wrestling, up being more palatable to you, and the
especially Greco-Roman. It’s two people winners could be your third favourite.
in weird leather underwear, staring Yikes.
into each other’s eyes and trying to hip- If this lack of certainty is too much
check each other while simultaneously for you: Imagine being the origi-
attempting an atomic wedgie. nal tourist to Iceland. A wandering
We’ll be honest. Some of the winners tax-evader from Norway who decides
are just outright winners, but some to settle on a rock almost uninhab-
are a matter of debate and controver- ited by animal life. A land that occa-
sy. Like in any other country, there sionally explodes, with geysers that
are cliques or special interest groups. burst scalding sulphur-scented water
The bar most liked by a 22-year-old from the ground like a cannon ball
noise music fanatic might seem a lit- at Satan’s pool party. It’s the kind of
tle off-putting to a bespectacled jazz place where people would invent glíma.
Re RE
F R E Y K JA F Y
TO V of y O
THE GUIDE-GUIDE ES
K
T
Í
JA
st
kj
ES
VÍK
K
Be
B
av
THE B
ík
2 0 12
BEST BURGER
BEST
IGN
Bes
f
uf
ES
tp
2015
st
2014
PL
AC
D
B
la
ce
y
st
ET AL to ri ES R
O BUY LOC sho p
fo r t
ou T BU R GE
THE
REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE
O F R E Y KJ AV
ST ÍK
BE
Look out for these stickers of recom-
mendation, which we’ve handed out to
this year’s winners. They indicate your
best option, whether you’re looking for
shopping, dining, drinking or party- 2019
ing in Reykjavík. We at the Grapevine
know what’s best!
Also, these are the stickers from BES
our previous “Best of’’ selections, giv- T BURGER
en to winners from prior years.
7
The Reykjavík Grapevine
Best of Reykjavík 2019
OUR STORES IN REYKJAVÍK: FARMERS & FRIENDS Laugavegur 37 Hólmaslóð 2 / Grandi
WWW.FARMERSMARKET.IS
BEST OF REYKJAVÍK 2019
8
Best Vegan Burger Best Pizza
Dining
Best of Reykjavík 2019
The Reykjavík Grapevine
Delicious even if you can't pronounce it
Watching Iceland come into its own as a dining destination over the
past five years has been a joy. The Icelandic restaurant scene is diver-
sifying, and the definition of what may be deemed “Icelandic cuisine”
is broadening and taking on new shapes. Thanks to this new-found cu- Veganæs Flatey
linary confidence—and the added footfall of tourism—this tiny scene Tryggvagata 22 Grandagarður 11
is experiencing an unprecedented moment of opportunity. Whether
it’s carefully-pleated Sichuanese vegan dumplings or exploratory tast- Veganæs has answered the prayers of A year after opening, Grandi's Flatey
ing menus at Nordic fine dining houses, the bandwagon has room for those yearning for diner fare that also easily stole the winner slot here. Along
happens to be cruelty free. Despite with their beloved leopard spotted
demanding diners. Our hand-picked panel of picky gourmands have
towing the seitan line, the Spicy Seitan- Napoli-style pizzas, what has caught
sought out the very best of Reykjavík dining to help you navigate the ic Burger is crunchy, spicy, greasy and much fancy is the aptly named ‘Monday
gastronomic waters of the capital area. From budget bites to fanciful oh so satisfying. Vegan cheese melti- Margherita’ special, coming in at 1490
fare, we’ve got you covered. ness issues aside, this is a toothsome ISK; we are suckers for alliteration and
burger and the accompanying fries good pies. Some things have changed
are fancy with their herby frills. The lately—the house-made sourdough
Best burger cocktail sauce is also on the money, so base seems to have been replaced by
mayo-deprived vegans can shed tears “generic pizza bottom" as our astute
of joy. Who knew a vegan dive-bar could panel observed. Still, Flatey is uber pop-
be this much fun? ular with families big and small—the
pizzas come quick, there's a pizza to
please everyone, and “customisations
for picky palates” are done with a smile.
Runners Up Runners Up
Le Kock & Búllan
Roadhouse Reykjavik Eldofninn
Snorrabraut 56 Efstaland 26
When the panel praises a vegan burger This out-of-the-way family-run pizzeria
as a “divine guilty pleasure,” you better has a wood-fired oven, creating gen-
Joint Winners
believe it. Roadhouse’s celery root erously topped pies with a good crust.
burger is a beacon of vegan-friendly The panel pick is the egg pizza—jammy
Le Kock, Tryggvagata 14 hope in a mock-meat world. Relying on yolks on pizza is an underrated thing of
the inherent blandness of celery root, beauty. While they seem to service half
Despite their fast-expansion and subsequent opening of the one
the grill lends it an unexpected smoky of Reykjavík with their deliveries, it’s
main outpost at their current location, Le Kock’s burgers have, thank- complexity. Simply delicious. also a cosy spot for a family dinner.
fully, remained consistent. The house-made potato rolls hold their
own until the very last bite. No soggy bottoms here. You may want to
ask them to be light handed with the sauce, though. Insider tip: their
veggie burger (vegan optional) gives meat patties a serious run for
their money.
Hamborgarabúllan, Geirsgata 1 & Bankastræti 3
Búllan’s meteoric rise to fame with multiple locations across Europe
isn’t really surprising when you bite into one of their luxuriously dec-
adent ‘Steak Burgers’—a glorious, juicy mix of tenderloin, rump and
rib-eye, with the perfect meat-to-fat ratio. Búllan is a solid burger Hagavagninn Hornið
that seals Iceland’s reputation as a worthy burger destination. Hofsvallagata 52 Hafnarstræti 15
NEWCOMER With one of Iceland’s With thin crust pizzas and a no-frills
most popular rappers behind the team, cosy flair in the decor, this is a local
Runner Up Hagavagninn opened shop in place treasure. We swear by their Quattro Sta-
of the old west side hotdog stand. gioni, but recently more Icelandic faves
Bastard Brew and Food Their vegan burger has a fan following have joined the toppings list—smoked
Vegamótastígur thanks to the fat, juicy patty. The pick- lamb or hangikjot, cream cheese, and—
Bastard Brew & Food occupies the led red onions add pizazz. As our vegan wait for it—bananas. Banana pizza meet
space formerly known as Vegamót, panellist confirmed: “it tastes even pylsu sushi. Your culinary tour of Iceland
serving entendre-laden beers and better after a dip in Vesturbæjarlaug.” is now complete. You’re welcome.
snacks, from the “Hazy Bastard” ale to
the juicy “Fat Bastard” burger served Previous Winners Previous Winners Previous Winners
with a mound of brisket on top. The rel-
ish is a winner, and the pickles pucker. 2018: Le Kock 2018: Prikið 2018: Flatey
If your heart desires something classic, 2017: Sæta Svínið 2017: Bike Cave 2017: Hornið
the Double Bastard is a smokey treat. 2015-6: Búllan 2016: Búllan 2014-6: Hverfisgata 12
9
Best Soup Best Sushi Best Bakery Best Coffeehouse
The Reykjavík Grapevine
Best of Reykjavík 2019
Ramen Momo Fish Market Sandholt Bismút
Tryggvagata 16 Aðalstræti 12 Laugavegur 36 Hverfisgata 82
Likely the Northernmost Ramen joint, One of a handful of places serving fresh No other country comes close to Ice- From new kid on the block to heading
this family-run business is small in size, Icelandic wasabi—the others being ÓX land’s preferred ratio of bread surface the pack, a caveat is needed for Bismút.
but delivers big on flavour. Reykjavík’s and Grillmarket—Fish Market was also to butter thickness. And marrying the This is not the place to curl up in a cosy
first Ramen bar has springy house- one of the first Icelandic restaurants two loves in loaves is local institution nook with a book, or—more likely—your
made organic noodles, and they’ve to serve sushi. While the maki rolls Sandholt. With their new expansion, laptop. If you find Bismút cosy, then
recently levelled up the broth. We’re are popular, we recommend the roe the lines are bearable, drawing 101 odds are you can name more than
suckers for their creamy Tantanmen—a gunkan rolls—seaweed collared rats back to this beloved bakery. Their ten Herzog movies. This one is strictly
deeply flavoured soup with Tonkotsu beauties generously topped with lightly signature sourdough continues to be for people-watching, coffee-guzzling,
adding heft to the mellow sesame cured fish eggs. The sashimi platter is the envy of open-crumb bakers while art-viewing, and conversations on tall
paste and hoisin-cooked pork. Add a an assortment of fresh seafood with a their mastery of buttery viennoiserie stools. But what glorious coffee they
drizzle of spicy chilli oil and you’ve got mound of crunchy wakame. Get a seat is unparalleled. Try their Danish topped brew. “It’s a proper third-wave coffee
yourself the best bowl in town. There at the sushi bar, pair your food with with rhubarb, or the Escargot—a rolled house set in a small art gallery,” said
are six soups on the menu, including the wasabi cocktail, and let Keto be pastry studded with raisins. Gourmet the panel. So go get your caffeine fix,
vegetarian options, and don’t miss out damned. sandwiches to go will make any journey and check out some local art in the
on their zingy dumplings or ‘Korean’ that much better and their house-made process.
house-made tea with fermented lem- sodas are a treat.
ons and ginger.
Runners Up Runners Up Runners Up
Runners Up
Fiskfélagið Brauð & Co. Reykjavík Roasters
Vesturgata 2a Frakkastígur 16 Brautarholt 2, Kárastígur 1,
Hi Noodle
Fish Company’s lunchtime-only sushi is This Danish style reluctant bakers bak- Ásmundursalur
Frakkastígur 9
perfect for crummy days when only an ery has been the talk of the town ever With their boffin-like obsession with
NEWCOMER Reykjavík’s newest
elegant meal will cure workday blues. since they first opened their doors. An the perfect roast, one of our panellists
ramen bar became an instant favourite
FC cleverly packages our pet peeve— express speed expansion hasn’t been said: “this is your typical curated roast.”
for many. With a slow-cooked, tem-
pylsu sushi (read below)—as a Lobster kind to their consistency, but thankful- Roasters offer the millennial experience
perature controlled broth, the chef—
Maki Roll, with deep-fried langoustine ly, the dense rugbrauð—Danish-style without the Berlin sangfroid—it’s the
Chen—is aiming to consistently deliver
insides, cuddling dates and peppers for bread—is stellar as always. Keep your quintessential Scandi coffee house expe-
his carefully designed recipes. The
a true Icelandic style sushi. eyes peeled for their ‘bolla.’ rience. Visit Kárastígur for take-outs and
portions are a little modest: best order
some dumplings on the side of your Brautarholt to work away from your desk.
Dan Dan if you’ve a big appetite. Vegan
option available.
Deig Workshop
Sushi Social Kaffihús Vesturbæjar
Tryggvagata 14
Þingholtsstræti 5 Melhagi 20-22
Noodle Station NEWCOMER Barring kleina and the
Sushi Social is a no-holds barred ode to “It’s the perfect coffee house for
Laugavegur 103 odd US chain, we’ve been a doughnut
the evolution of sushi on this island— different age groups and vibes,” said
Before the ramen revolution of the two starved nation. But thanks to Deig, fresh
aka ‘pylsu sushi.’ Embrace the joys of our panel of this all-purpose neighbour-
soup joints above, there was Noodle fried doughnuts are a reality. Should
island sushi, and assuage any guilt via hood coffeehouse and café. If you’ve
Station, serving vegetable, beef and we gush about the custard filled creme
the cocktail menu. Check out the surf had your first kid and you know your
chicken noodle soups with a pungent brulee doughnut or cry for the now
and turf rolls, and keep an eye out for Muuto from your Ferm Living, this is the
chilli-garlic aroma that floods the discontinued surmjölk and Cheerios
their Tuna festival. spot to grab a slice of carrot cake after
street outside. It’s a thoroughly Western doughnut? (Bring it back!) They make
a splash in the Vesturbæjarlaug pool.
take on noodle soup… but damn, it’s pretty good bagels too. Psst... they
satisfying on a cold day or, especially, if open at 7am.
you have a cold.
Previous Winners Previous Winners Previous Winners
Previous Winners 2016-8: Fish Market 2018: Joint: Sandholt / Brauð & Co 2018: Kaffihús Vesturbæjar
2018: Ramen Momo 2015: SuZushii 2013-7: Sandholt 2017: Reykjavík Roasters
2014: Sushisamba 2016: Stofan
2015: Kaffihús Vesturbæjar
BEST OF REYKJAVÍK 2019
10
Best Chinese Best Thai
Dining
Best of Reykjavík 2019
The Reykjavík Grapevine
Iceland's not cheap so it better be good
Best Indian
Fönix Ban Thai
Bíldshöfði 12 Laugavegur 130
Don’t be fooled by the industrial Pad Thai may have been what imprinted
location—Fönix is a no-nonsense family Thai cuisine in the minds of most in the
joint that caters to blue collar workers, Western world, but Ban Thai continues
as well as homesick Chinese expats. The to surprise, delight and coax even the
owners are a couple from the Sichuan most reluctant palate to embrace the
province, and rightfully play to their breadth of Thai cuisine. Northern fiery
strengths—the Mapo Tofu, available as curries or creamier Southern offerings,
a vegan dish or with pork, is a study in with a smattering of street-fare, Ban
extracting big flavours from few ingre- Thai is the quintessential Thai restau-
dients. Ignore the deep-fried shrimp rant in town. A die-hard loyalist recom-
and discover the joys of the steamed mends getting the “green thai curry
dumpling—each one is a treasure with roti, which is a meal in itself, even
chest of flavour and texture. Vegans though it is listed under appetisers.”
aren’t ignored here and the place is
fantastic for groups big and small.
Runners Up Runners Up
Austur-Indíafjélagið
Hverfisgata 56
A tried and tested local favourite, Austur-Indíafélagið has sin-
gle-handedly steered an entire generation to embrace spices and
curries. Their small curated menu reflects regional Indian cuisine
and their no-nonsense attitude toward “uncompromising authentic- Tian Krua Thai
ity” brings a freshness most on display with dishes like the Adraki Grensásvegur 21 Skólavörðustígur 21
Chaamp—bone-in lamb grilled to smoky perfection, transporting While we hear whispers of a secret The little Thai restaurant recently
menu at Tian—the Chinese diners being moved to Skólavörðustígur and they’ve
one to the streets of India. Instead of ordering an entire curry, do like treated to the real thing, while non-Chi- never been better. Their deeply fla-
the Indians do and dine-in family style. The tandoori kulchas are per- nese diners get chop suey—Tian’s voured curries are “redolent with fresh
fect to mop up both curries and kebabs. Finish the meal off with some toned-down renditions of Western galangal, chillies and spices to warm
steamed rice and garlic-laced dal that alone warrants repeat visits. favourites fare well above the average. cold days,” said the panel. If you’re in a
The Kung Pao chicken is deservedly rush, stop for a nourishing bowl of soup
popular—but try and get something at the bar.
Runners Up from that enticing hidden menu.
Shalimar Hraðlestin
Jia Yao Mai Thai
Austurstræti 4 Lækjargata 8
Ármúli 5 Laugavegur 118
Shalimar’s daily rotation of weeday This small local chain has a few branch-
Jia Yao rounds off our Chinese restau- With quick service and a part-store-
thalis still have our hearts skipping a es, but the mothership is the Lækjar-
rant trio. Ármuli has been a tough part-restaurant vibe, Mai Thai is popular
beat. A grilled-to-perfection tandoori gata location, where you can sit in a
neighbourhood to crack, but this Pan- for both lunch or takeaway. The menu
chicken, alongside an assortment of calm environment and blast your face
Asian lunch buffet is hearty and well- changes every day, but ask for the fiery
vegetables and meat, naan and rice is a off with a rich, decadent, tasty vindaloo
priced, and there’s an à la carte menu. Laab—stir-fried minced chicken salad
meal fit for a queen, and all her minions. or a spot-on madras. Follow them on
The raw ambience can be a turn-off, but chock full of sliced shallots, mint, cori-
Our panellist shares that “what most Instagram for Tuesday specials.
don’t let that stop you from trying some ander and obsession-worthy toasted
don’t know, is that their kheer—a slow authentic Chinese fare. rice powder. Spicy, crunchy and fresh.
cooked rice pudding like desser—is an
undiscovered gem.” Previous Winners Previous Winners Previous Winners
2016-8: Austur-Indíafjélagið 2018: Fönix 2014-8: Ban Thai
2014-5: Gandhi 2013: Yummi Yummi
2013: AusturlandahraðlestinRiding with Eldhestar
11
The Reykjavík Grapevine
Best of Reykjavík 2019
Would you like to experience something different?
HORSES & SOFT RIVER BANKS ICELANDIC DIVERSITY
HOT SPRINGS This is a tour for the experienced rider! Get in touch with Icelandic nature
Experience a variety of scenery Who would not like to ride in an on horseback and taste the
and excellent riding trails. extraordinary environment? treasures of the nearby sea.
Tour 3C Tour 3B Tour 2G
GREAT VARIETY OF
HORSE RIDING TOURS
JUST OUTSIDE REYKJAVIK
Get further information at
www.eldhestar.is
Eldhestar, Vellir, 816 Ölfus Email: info@eldhestar.is Tel: +354 480 4800BEST OF REYKJAVÍK 2019
12
Best Place For A Fancy Meal Best Tasting Menu
Dining
Best of Reykjavík 2019
The Reykjavík Grapevine
From fancy meals to free refill Plokkfiskur
Best Goddamn Restaurant
Nostra Grillið
Laugavegur 59 Hotel Saga, Hagatorg
Nestled above Bónus on Laugavegur, Winner winner, five digit chicken dinner.
one might be forgiven for underesti- We are delighted to pay our long-over-
mating one of Iceland’s most ambitious due respects to the grand mama of
fine dining restaurants. From the cool Reykjavík fine dining. “Their tasting
interior to the dedicated vegetarian, menu takes you on this whole journey
vegan, pescatarian and omnivorous that makes you lose all track of time,”
tasting menus, Nostra’s ambitious work said one of our dreamy-eyed panellists.
makes them a top pick. Not shy of buck- When it comes to swank, there is noth-
ing trends with their vinegar-edged ing like a 300° view of the cityscape
gastriques, each dish is a study in whilst having your senses assailed by a
flavour, precision and mind-fuckery. menu that celebrates seasonality, com-
plexity and depth without ever giving in
to fussiness. This is old school glamour
Runners Up meets a truly innovative kitchen that
blazes a path for ambitious dining.
Runners Up
Snaps
Þórsgata 1
Grillið
Year after year, regardless of how many restaurants open and close, Hotel Saga, Hagatorg
Snaps remains a timeless classic. Be it lunch, date-night dinner, lazy Grillið’s service and level of craft is the
weekend brunches or a boisterous Christmas work party, Snaps is the best in town. Think caviar served on a
film of seabuckthorn, or a salt-baked, Nostra
perfect venue for a boatload of memories. Steady standbys include the Laugavegur 59
glazed beetroot with the consistency of
deeply savoury onion soup (with a union of its own, we suspect), the Turkish delight. Not content with sweet Nostra arrived on the Icelandic dining
house-made fries with crispy rosemary that beg to be a meal on their and unctuous desserts, they layer in scene like a movie star strolling up the
own, and a textbook crème brûlée topped with an envious snap. As salt and bitterness with effortless stag- red carpet. In a beautifully renovated,
ing; the meringue with Sichuan pepper lush and luxurious interior, they serve
one panellist concluded, “they are also that rare joint with a 3,000 ISK tasting menus the way they should be
is bruléed at the table, sending mauve
bottle of wine.” It isn’t only the food that makes Snaps such a beloved streaks of bilberry running through the done: with flair, theatre and sensitivity.
institution; it’s that hard to pin down the je ne sais quoi that simply ice cream. This is what raising the bar Every plate looks lavish, and tastes even
works. looks like. better. Treat yourself.
Runners Up
Mat Bar Grillmarket Dill
Hverfisgata 26 Lækjargata 2a Hverfisgata 12
Mat Bar’s rapid menu changes make The locally-sourced menu of Grillmarket Michelin-starred Dill is one the Iceland’s
it hard to pin down a favourite dish have been a hit with diners since this tasting menu pioneers. Built on the New
to return for, but hey, change is fun, place opened its doors. A favourite Nordic philosophy, the menu traverses
too. Consistently experimental, the ‘fancy place’ for locals, the restaurant the island’s culinary traditions. Each
Nostra
kitchen’s focus on the open fire grill also upped its game by offering fresh, meal is a tight narration of seasons,
Laugavegur 59
has translated to successful winners locally grown Icelandic wasabi. Our flavours, ingredients and traditions.
Even though this slot is usually reserved
like the scallops, grilled carrots and panel suggested pairing the wasabi Wine pairings recommended. Book well
for restaurants of the more affordable
cabbage and recently, the dumpling with a steak, and something decadent in advance, and go all-in on the seven
nature, the sheer delight of dining at
variations. from the exhaustive wine list. course menu.
Nostra made it a unanimous shoo-in. If
the eight-course meal sounds daunt-
ing, the four-course variation is just as Previous Winners Previous Winners Previous Winners
impressive and, may we add, far more
value for money than the uninspired set 2018: Mat Bar 2014-8: Dill 2017-8: Dill
menu offerings around town. 2017: Snaps / Matur og Drykkur
2014-6: Snaps13
The Reykjavík Grapevine
Best of Reykjavík 2019
PIZZA NAPOLETANA
MARGHERITA
@FLATEYPIZZA WWW.FLATEY.PIZZA
GRANDAGARÐUR 11 HLEMMUR FOOD HALL
101 REYKJAVÍK +354 5882666BEST OF REYKJAVÍK 2019
14
Best Family Restaurant Best Vegan Meal
Dining
Best of Reykjavík 2019
The Reykjavík Grapevine
If they're over 7mm wide they're chips, not fries
Best Cheap Meal Hamborgara- Sumac
fabrikkan Laugavegur 28
Höfðatorg, Kringlan
One of the persistent faves with the
KIDS' CHOICE The Hamborgara- local vegan community, despite not
fabrikkan burger chain is ideal for a catering solely to vegans, Sumac’s Mid-
lunch outing with the family. There are dle Eastern-inspired fare makes it the
plenty of distractions for young diners, vegan destination to beat. No insipid
including borrowed iPads and head- ‘nut steaks’ in sight here: instead, the
phones to keep the kids entertained kitchen treats vegetables as the star
and distracted. The child-friendly vibe of the show, eggplants are grilled to
explains why it continues to be a popu- silkiness, the cauliflower roasted whole;
lar haunt for birthday parties, so don’t often draped with bright pomegranate
be surprised by the chorus of “hún á arils, it’s a treat for anyone. Ask for
afmæli í dag” wafting around the room the Lebanese wine; the interesting
every now and then. backstory of its harried continuance
seals the outing.
Runners Up Runner Up
Icelandic Street Food
Lækjargata 8 & Laugavegur 85
You can’t beat the prices at this tiny spot with a big heart. All the soups
are available in a bread bowl with—wait for it—unlimited refills! You
can choose from a lamb soup, a buttery traditional plokkfiskur and a Kaffi Laugalækur Nostra
Laugarnesvegur 74a Laugavegur 59
veggie soup, and your refill can even be a taste of another dish. Ice- PARENTS CHOICE For many a While neither exclusively vegan nor
land prides itself on the quality of its lamb and fish, so kjötsúpa and young parent, the cafe stop at the end vegetarian, Nostra is inclusive in a way
fiskisúpa are safe bets. If you’d like to try affordable local food, and of a long stroll is the proverbial pot of that illustrates the future of fine dining.
you're very, very hungry, this is the spot. gold. Kaffi Lækur is especially popular “Vegetables are built into the place, not
with new parents, with a special kids’ simply an afterthought,” said the panel.
corner for crawlers and drawers. The It’s worth pointing out that Nostra is
Runners Up generously topped chicken and pesto one of a handful of restaurants that
‘litla gula hænan’ and the ‘shawarmaba- have a dedicated vegan-vegetarian
ka’ are our top lunch picks. menu, so “the entire table can enjoy a
tasting menu together, with none of
that mixed diet awkwardness.”
Fish and Co. Lamb Street Food
Aðalstræti 16 Grandagarður 7 Hard Rock Café Veganæs
This stark black wagon parked in Food wrapped in a flatbread is a uni- Lækjargata 2A Tryggvagata 22
Fógetagarðurinn sells succulent cod versally-loved thing of beauty. At Lamb, A good family place needs to be appeal- NEWCOMER One of our few
for a hard-to-beat 1,000 ISK. The fish is they take things a few steps further ing to parents and kids alike. The Hard exclusively vegan places, Veganæs
pan-cooked in butter with wilted spin- and make everything from scratch. Rock Café caters perfectly to the needs shows how vegan food can be just as
ach and a few blistered tomatoes for Anything you order sits under the 2,000 of a family group, with a diverse menu, down-and-dirty as a burger joint. “You
acidity. “Just don’t forget your gloves ISK tag. What’s lesser known however, special kids plates, colouring menus, don’t need to have a yoga mat under
on a cold day,” warns one panellist. is that their wraps are perfect for free drink refills, and lids on drinks to your arm when you go there,” said the
sharing, making it the cheapest meal in help contain spills. panel. See vegan food in a new light,
town by far. and catch a goth drag show while
you’re at it.
Previous Winners Previous Winners Previous Winners
2018: Icelandic Street Food 2015: K-Bar (RIP) 2018: Jamie's Italian 2018: Skál and Mat Bar
2017: Bike Cave 2014: 10-11 after 14:00 2017: Hamborgarafabrikkan 2016-7: Kaffi Vínyl
2016: Noodle Station 2016: Laundromat 2015: Teni
2015: KEX HostelIcelandic Lamb
15
The Reykjavík Grapevine
Best of Reykjavík 2019
Free roaming since 874, Icelandic Lamb continues to be a rare specialty that’s humanely raised on
family owned and operated farms.
Flavored by the wild pastures and raised without any hormones or antibiotics in one of the purest
environments in the world, Icelandic lamb meat is wonderfully lean, flavorful and tender.
The distinctive taste is a result of the wild pastures; the grass and the aromatic and spicy herbs on which
the lambs graze.
LOOK FOR THE SHIELD
When dining in Iceland always look for the Icelandic Lamb Shield.
Our Symbol of Trust, Consistency and Quality for Genuine Icelandic Lamb
Products.16
Best Brunch Best Lunch Place Best Ice Cream Best Lamb
Best of Reykjavík 2019
The Reykjavík Grapevine
Coocoo’s Nest Hlemmur & Skúbb Matarkjallarinn
Grandagarður 23 Grandi Mathöll Laugarásvegur 1 Aðalstræti 2
Hlemmur & Grandagarður 16
Family-run restaurant Coocoo’s Nest of- Ice cream is one of those ethereal Icelandic lamb is raised simply—all
fers a memorable brunch, with options When it comes to lunch, Reykjavík’s two pleasures that encapsulates the mantra summer long, the sheep are left outside
ranging from a filling, spicy breakfast food halls are top of the pile. It is, after of living—be present. Unlike the sugar to graze, and come fall, the lamb makes
burrito to green eggs on sourdough all, a major increase over the zero food crazed concoctions in every supermar- a bee-line to the plate. It’s only fitting
bread. Located out on Grandi (they’ve halls we had in 2016. As you might ex- ket aisle, Skúbb elevates the ice-cream that Matarkjallarinn honours Icelandic
been out there since before it was pect, the main attraction is the variety games with their flavour-forward, dense, lamb in the most unpretentious fashion.
cool), the walk along the harbour will on offer. Members of a group can mix- creamy scoops. Seasonal favourite man- Grassy and intense, Icelandic lamb
clear your head on the way; in summer, and-match their dishes and drinks from go is an absolute treat, while the dark needs to be handled delicately for its
you can sit outside and catch the sun, the different concessions to fit anyone chocolate brownie is lusciously bitter. unique flavour to shine through—do too
and in winter, the cosy interior feels al- and everyone’s hunger level, budget, The non-dairy sorbets are intensely much and you’ll overshadow this tender
most like a secluded fairy-light-strung vegetarianism, allergies, etcetera. fruity, indicating the absence of imita- meat. By foregoing frivolous add-ons,
yard. The service is right, the food spot Chase your heart’s desire, be it Nordic, tion flavours. Every scoop is a downright Matarkjallarinn lets the lamb speak for
on, and the healthy beetroot mimosa is Thai, Mexican, Korean, a pastry, a panini, treat, especially with the promise of itself.
a fresh and tasty hair of the dog. or just a plain ol’ pile of lamb meat. summer looming large.
Runners Up Runners Up Runners Up Runners Up
Snaps Hannesarholt Ísbúð Huppu Grillmarket
Þórsgata 1 Grundarstígur 10 Álfheimar 2-6 Lækjargata 2a
Snaps serves up the perfect laid-back The historic Hannesarholt culture Selfoss based ice-cream joint Huppu, Grillmarket is still the go-to place for
brunch for your Sunday morning building has gotten a new lease of with their happy cow logo, may not many locals looking for a fancy evening
recovery session. Choose from various life. Formerly a quiet coffee spot, it be a vegan haunt, but this thoroughly out. For most, it means ordering the
omelettes, classic eggs benedict, and reopened as a restaurant focusing on Icelandic incarnation serves up all the lamb and a bottle of wine. And rightfully
croque monsieurs, and add a mimosa locally sourced produce. It’s a concise time honoured local classics—creamy so. The lamb chops or charcoal grilled
if the mood strikes you. If that isn’t selection: we tried the juicy, crisp salm- soft serves, assortment of dips and steaks are always a winner—the smoky
your tipple of choice, they have a great on with wholesome beets and quinoa. toppings with fruit to candy ratio being char is but a natural foil to the grassy
bloody mary and a g’n’t menu. Vegans can rejoice too: there’s always 1:100 and the hyper-local bragðarefur meat.
one option on the menu. ice cream & candy smoothie.
Cafe Paris Mímisbar Valdís Apotek
Austurstræti 14 Hagatorg Grandagarður 21 & Frakkastígur 10 Austurstræti 16
Cafe Paris is a bright bistro with casual NEWCOMER Rather than a limp Despite stiff competition, Valdís Whatever lamb is being served here,
panache with food to match. The panel slice of pizza or reheated soup. Mímir continues to draw the crowds. If you rest assured it’ll be a meal to remem-
praised the fried chicken and waffles, has a Michelin-level kitchen and two cannot bear the thought of queuing ber. With experienced chefs who share
and the stacks of pancakes with handsome portions of colourful, Nordic behind an impatient Icelander—ticket an unbridled passion for meat and
bananas and almonds. They lamented, deliciousness for under 2,000 ISK (at system long forgotten—they now sell fire, all the plates come out perfectly
however, the cancellation of table ser- the time of writing) in a swanky but their wares in supermarkets. The store executed. Currently, they have a rack of
vice, which diminishes the Parisienne unpretentious dining hall. “Mímir,” FYI, is scoops are a notch above though, so lamb that’s a visual treat—get it while
vibe and kept this otherwise excellent the disembodied brother of the Norse drop in at Grandi or Frakkastígur. it lasts.
joint off the top spot. god Odin. Pretty metal.
Previous Winners Previous Winners Previous Winners Previous Winners
2018: Cafe Paris 2017-8: Snaps 2018: Skúbb New category!
2017: Vox 2015-6: Ostabúðin 2013-7: Valdís
2016: Coocoo’s NestGrand
17
The Reykjavík Grapevine
Best of Reykjavík 2019
Golden
Circle
Promotion for Grapevine readers
Enter “GRAPEVINE”
for 25% discount
when booking at
bustravel.is
1 Kerið volcanic crater
(entrance fee included)
2 Faxi waterfall
3 Geysir geothermal area
4 Gullfoss waterfall
5 Þingvellir National Park
Availability: Daily
Pickup starts: 8:00
Duration: 8 hours
Þingvellir
Find more day tours
Geysir 4 Gullfoss
5
3
www.bustravel.is
2 Faxi
Reykjavík
Kerið
info@bustravel.is
1 + 354 511 2600
Selfoss
#bustravelicelandBEST OF REYKJAVÍK 2019
18
Best Italian Best Seafood
Dining
Best of Reykjavík 2019
The Reykjavík Grapevine
Greasy burger, or glazed, torched cod head?
Must-Try Dining Experience
La Primavera Fiskfélagið
at Marshall House Bar + Vesturgata 2a
Restaurant - Grandagarður 20
With a band of talented chefs in the
25-years ago, Leifur Kolbeinsson intro-
kitchen, Fish Company is the definitive
duced Icelanders to fresh pasta at his
seafood restaurant in Iceland. Banging
iconic eatery La Primavera. It closed a
out consistently great dishes ever
few years later, but Icelanders still rem-
since they opened, the restaurant
inisce about it. Now, Leifur is back in the
has grown beyond their reputation
kitchen at the Marshall House restau-
for fusion kitschiness. Today, their
rant, with the same focus on simplicity.
Japanese-inspired cod, swimming in
“I didn’t even know cod roe could be
a charred onion dashi, or the North
so… sophisticated,” mused the panel
African style wolf-fish with perfectly
as we dined at the anniversary pop-up.
cooked black chickpeas, all enunciate
Thanks to diner pressure, La Primavera
a finesse and understanding of ingre-
made a comeback as a permanent
dient, region and technique that other
fixture at Marshall House. A delicious
restaurants can only aspire to.
full circle, if ever there was one.
Runners Up Runners Up
Skál
Hlemmur Mathöll
Helmed by one of Iceland’s finest chefs—Gísli Matthías Auðunsson—
anything you order here will be your definitive culinary memory of
Iceland. “Seasonal” and “local” aren’t just clickbait terms at Skál. Be it Essensia Fish Market
smoked carrots on sourdough or crispy seaweed with cured roe, noth- Hverfisgata 4-6 Aðalstræti 12
ing is as simple as it seems. From Icelandic lamb to Arctic char or a The only restaurant in the country to “They seem to take the extra step for
now host a dedicated ‘truffle menu’ at freshness,” said one panellist of Fish Mar-
scrumptious vegan meal, Skál has you covered. They boast a natural prices that won’t break the bank, Es- ket’s seafood. This upscale eatery serves
wine selection, cocktails on tap, and they debut new drinks regularly, sensia has come into its own recently. everything from lightly salted cod to
like the Sultuslaukur rhubarb cider. A culinary adventure like no oth- The under-seasoned nightmares have controversial minke whale—details like
er, Skál also won’t break the bank. been laid to rest; the kitchen has a ponzu dipping sauce, and fresh Icelandic
new spring in its step, dishing out silky wasabi takes the experience up a notch.
handmade pasta and great calzone. Booking recommended, but impromptu
Runners Up sushi bar stools are sometimes available.
Cod Head at Matur og Drykkur ÓX Hornið Messinn
Grandagarður 2 Laugavegur 28 Hafnarstræti 15 Lækjargata 6 & Grandagarður 8
Shock value aside, Matur og Drykkur ÓX is Iceland’s first chef’s table dining It might not be fancy, but O.G. Italian Messinn has been so popular since
elevated Icelandic cooking with this experience for only 11 diners each joint Hornið is still going strong. The opening that they now boast a large
singular dish—a whole, butterflied cod night. Determined to be discreet, the thin-crust pizzas are 100% satisfying— buffet style branch in Grandi. Continuing
head, simmered in chicken stock and restaurant is housed in the far end of we recommend the prawn-covered to serve ‘fish-in-pans’, Messinn’s
glazed. “The deep fried cod tongues Sumac; it is an intimate dining expe- seafood option—and you can get all once-generous portions have dwindled,
are the best part,” said the panel. “And rience where the walls between the kinds of hearty comfort-food pasta our panel noted. Thankfully, the taste
the fish head is basically prime cod chef and diner are dissolved over an dishes, should your heart so desire. and consistency have remained largely
cheeks.” An unmissable treat. intimate and leisurely tasting menu. Support a true classic and drop by. unchanged. We also adore their plokk-
fiskur (although the panel suspects the
recipe has changed recently).
Previous Winners Previous Winners Previous Winners
2017: Snaps 2014: Bergsson Mathús 2018: Marshall House 2018: Fish Company and Fish Market
2015-6: Ostabúðin 2014-7: Fish Company19
Best Place For A Group Best Gastropub Best Late Night Bite Best Newcomer
The Reykjavík Grapevine
Best of Reykjavík 2019
Apotek Public House Mandi Skelfiskmarkaðurinn
Austurstræti 16a Laugavegur 24 Veltusund 3b Klapparstígur 28-30
Housed in a stunning downtown space, The gastropub trend may be fatigued Mandi can’t possibly be a controver- When the owners of flagship upscale eat-
Apotek, meaning “drug store” in Icelan- in the UK, but in Iceland we are only sial choice. A Syrian kebab spot that’s eries Grill Market and Fish Market started
dic, was once an actual drug store. A getting started, it seems. One of the universally loved in Reykjavík, check a new venture in '18, we sat up and took
wall plaque with the names of its long first gastropubs is still one of the most out the crispy falafel, lamb wraps and notice. With a lush interior (check out
gone patrons remains. New patrons, popular. The menu is about as large as fries covered with a mystery white those 70s style mirrors by Siggi Odds!),
however, are likely to drop by for their they come for the category but they sauce. Newly renovated with increased expect great service and a comfortable,
regular dose of cocktails, finger foods, manage to strike a balance between seating, and reliably open into the early convivial atmosphere for a coffee, cock-
small plates, cakes... and eye candy. scrumptious shared plates, solid beer hours, you won’t find a better place to tail, brunch, or romantic dinner. Skelfisk-
Who doesn’t love a “hottie bartender”? selection, and cozy nooks to spark a pass out face-first into a plate of lamb markaðurinn means “Shellfish Market,”
The service is amicable and the staff romance or catch up with a friend. shawarma at five in the morning, or and it lives up to name—the traditional
usually go out of their way to ensure stumble home with that hangover-bat- French fruits du mer platter teeming with
everyone is having a good time in this tling late night bite. fresh, colourful prawns, langoustines, sea
lovely, spacious dining room. snails and more. A fancy treat.
Runners Up Runners Up Runners Up Runners Up
Tapas Barinn Brewdog Nonnabiti ÓX
Vesturgata 3b Frakkastígur 8 Hafnarstræti 9 Laugavegur 28
It’s a non-traditional take on tapas, but NEWCOMER A pair of newcomers “This is the guiltiest of guilty comfort Not for the socially averse, the intriguing
the atmosphere is on point. With food changed the gastropub game in 2018. food,” declared one aging and expand- and intimate ÓX seats you at a commu-
served for the whole table, the selec- The first is Brewdog, whose menu ing panellist. Their sandwiches are piled nal table for eleven in a “secret” space
tion is huge, with langoustine, puffin, transcends bar food. Using Icelandic with shredded meat with onions and at the back of Sumac. Expect to strike
lamb, and more global fare. If you’re ingredients with touches from the dripping with sauce and meat juices. up conversations with the servers and
looking for a place where the food and Brewdog chain, you can get a range of This will make you forget about striking your fellow diners while the chef keeps
drinks keep coming and the service delicious burgers, seafood, sides and a out on the dancefloor faster than you the delicious courses coming. A one-off.
never falters, you’ve found it. mouth-watering battered Mars bar for can say “HvarertuSiggi!?” Book in advance.
dessert. Guilty pleasure heaven.
Skelfiskmarkaðurinn Bastard Brew & Food Devitos Veganæs
Klapparstígur 28-30 Vegamótastígur Laugavegur 126 Tryggvagata 22
NEWCOMER Tailor made for NEWCOMER Just around the Anyway you slice it, Devitos will set your Vegans need junk food, too, and
brasserie-style debauchery, “Shellfish corner, the homegrown Bastard Brew & late night belly rumbles right. If you Veganæs delivers in spades. Their cru-
Market” has custom interiors and a Food brew pub is giving Brewdog a run were born in the 80s, then chances elty-free comfort food ranges from a
cleverly designed layout with space for for its money. You can grab a medley are you’ve binged on a late-night bite spectacularly convincing grilled cheese,
groups of all sizes. When Sirkús closed, of burgers, sharing plates and comfort at Devitos. Available by the slice or fake fish and chips, burgers and cheese
an entire generation of party goers food from around the globe. As one of as whole pies, if you’re in town on a poppers. It’s a sticky-feeling, well-worn
were in disbelief; at least now they can our panellists slurred: “I’ve somehow weekend, Devitos will be your last stop rock bar environment, sure, but with food
get a shellfish buffet on the same spot never been there without hitting a before Neverland. like this? Count us in.
to soothe their woes. happy hour.”
Previous Winners Previous Winners Previous Winners Previous Winners
2015-8: Tapas barinn 2018: Skál 2017-8: Mandi 2018: Nostra
2014: KEX 2016: Ali Baba 2017: Hlemmur Mathöll / Mat Bar
2016: Fish and Chipssistent, and that’s important. Every
20
time you come here you’ll get the
same taste.”
Best of Reykjavík 2019
The Reykjavík Grapevine
Chen lived in China until he
was 20 years old, absorbing in-
fluences from Chinese and Ko-
rean food into his cooking. “The
Dan Dan recipe mixes Japanese
Dan Dan and Chinese Dan Dan,”
he says. “In the Chinese version
there’s no broth, but in Japanese
version there’s a lot of broth. And
in the Icelandic cold weather, I
think people need the broth. Then
the Tonkotsu is very classic—
it’s the same flavour you would
find in Japan. Each bowl has 100
grammes of noodles. The different
“Our broth takes at least a day and a half, is only the toppings and the broth.”
using temperature controlled cooking.” Soup confidence
Many had told Chen that December
DINING noodles; then there’s the tare, which was a bad time to open a restaurant,
means flavours like soy sauce. Then but the response has been good so
There’s A New there’s the topping, or chashu; and
finally the seasoning. That’s every-
thing that’s in the bowl.”
far. “People have been very support-
ive,” he says. “I have Icelandic friends
who are coming in often.”
Ramen In Town Daylong broth
There are plans to use the first
floor when summer comes, and to
expand the menu, but for now the
Hi Noodle prioritises authenticity and consistency However, Chen’s versions of these intimacy of Hi Noodle is one of its
classic dishes were long in prepara- charms. The dishes of steaming hot
Words: John Rogers Photos: Art Bicnick tion. “I use fresh ingredients from soup are handed straight over the
here in Iceland,” he says. “Our broth counter from the smiling chef, giving
Reykjavík foodies have long lament- have some more authentic noodles.”
ed the relative lack of Asian cuisines
in this city that are readily available Years in the
is most European hubs. Hi Noodle
is a brand new 13-seat eatery locat-
making
ed in a recently renovated house The noodles in question are fresh-
on Frakkastígur that’s seeking to ly made at a workshop in London,
change the game. and delivered every week for use in
The restaurant is run by Chen, Hi Noodle’s four recipes. “The noo-
the calm, amiable presence who’s dles are Tonkotsu noodles, which
smiling face you’ll see behind the is a very thin wheat noodle,” says
high counter upon entering the Chen. “Then we have four recipes: takes at least a day and a half to the place a cosy and casual feel. It
pristine white dining room. “I had Tonkotsu, Miso Tonkotsu, Dan Dan, make, using temperature controlled helps, of course, that all of the soups
the idea for this restaurant two and the vegan option.” cooking. We simmer the broth for are delicious, flavourful, warming
C
years ago,” he says. “Before that I Chen spent a year perfecting the six to eight hours, then high-heat it and filling. “I have confidence in my
was in the tourist business. I was recipes before the renovations be- to reduce it by 50% until it’s creamy food,” finishes Chen, before getting M
always taking people to Noodle gan. “There’s no secret in ramen,” and white, then we test the concen- back to work. “I really believe it’s one
Y
Station or other restaurants, and I he smiles. “There are five basic el- tration. The ramen in this restaurant of the best ramen in Iceland.”
thought it would be nice for them to ements. First is the broth, then the will always taste the same. It’s con- CM
MY
CY
CMY
K21
Donuts
The Reykjavík Grapevine
Best of Reykjavík 2019
Fresh Bagels
Sourdough Bread
Sourdough Pizza
Pastries
Everything made in
house daily
Open when we
have something
Close when we don’t
@deigworkshop Tryggvagata 14
206x136-pallett-grapevine-bestof-spring-advert.pdf 1 13/02/18 08:43and lush red velvet curtains. If you
22
like the film, you’ll have lots to talk
“It feels like an old Art about afterwards. Or, if your blind
Deco gangsters paradise.”
Best of Reykjavík 2019
The Reykjavík Grapevine
date complains about the lack of
superheroes in said picture, you
DRINKING GUIDE can always peace out to one of the
bars nearby.
Save The Date
Where to take your significant Spánski
Ingólfsstræti 8
other, or latest Tinder match “I like to go somewhere I don’t
Words: The Grapevine dating dpt. Photos: Art Bicnick go usually,” was a common re-
frain among our panellists. “You
Dating in Reykjavík is straight-up weird. People here bump into don’t wanna run into everyone
each other around town so often that’s it’s barely necessary to you know when you’re trying to
arrange anything, leading to a laissez-faire “see you around the have a date.” With this as a date
block!” vibe that can seem bewildering to outsiders and incomers. place key criteria, basement
Dates do still happen, though. So whether you want an easygoing wine bar Spánski is perfect.
spot for a chill chat, a bustley environment to meet a Tinder may- Hlemmur Mathöll “There’s no chance you’ll see
be, or a secluded booth for a third date, here are our Best Of panels’ Laugavegur 107 anyone you know there, you can
date place suggestions. Iceland’s first food hall is great for always get a seat, and they have
dates. There are plenty of people tapas and nice Spanish wine.”
buzzing around, giving it a re-
laxed, social feeling, and there are Port 9
plenty of options — you can get Veghúsastígur 9
some wine at Kröst, pick up some
spicy tacos if you’re unafraid of Our drinking panel sang the
salsa mishaps, or have a cocktail praises of tucked away wine bar
or a natural wine from SKÁL. Port 9, which also wins the Best
“You’re in public without feeling Wine Bar award. It can be a bit
like you’re being watched by ev- loud and crowded at peak hours,
eryone,” said the panel. “And if but if you’re there on a weeknight
you do see people you know, it’s it’s “a cosy, intimate, secret-feel-
informal enough that they won’t ing place to have a glass of wine
Skelfiskmarkaðurinn Bíó Paradís start texting everyone gossip in and a conversation, hidden away
Klapparstígur 28-30 Hverfisgata 52 five minutes flat.” from everyone.”
If you want to push the boat out A movie might sound a bit cliché
and have a romantic dinner or a for a lovey-dovey outing, but Bíó
late dessert, Skelfiskmarkaðurinn Paradís is no ordinary theatre.
is a great choice. “There are loads Forgoing blockbusters and other
of nice touches like the cool mir- mainstream releases, the beloved
rors and sexy burgundy leather,” cinema offers the best of the in-
said the panel. “It feels like an ternational scene along with cult
old Art Deco gangsters paradise. screenings, weekly horror nights,
There’s delicious food, the bar and Friday parties. Choose be-
has great cocktails and wine, and tween an obscure Polish flick or a
there are plenty of nooks to shy sing-along Rocky Horror screen-
away from prying eyes.” ing and cuddle up with your hub-
by surrounded by soft lighting
ICELANDIC
RAMEN
FIRST RAMEN HOUSE
IN ICELAND
Tryggvagata 16You can also read
