Best Of Reykjavík 2018 - The Reykjavik Grapevine

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Best Of Reykjavík 2018 - The Reykjavik Grapevine
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       Special Issue                                                      Spring Edition

                                                                                                  The Reykjavík Grapevine
                                                                                                    Best of Reykjavík 2018
         The City Awards                                                    grapevine.is/bestof

                     Best Of
                  Reykjavík 2018
  Dining                   Drinking Shopping Activities
The 60 best eateries       The 30 best nights out   Our 30 shop awards   The 30 funnest outings
Cheap eats & pizza           Bargain boozing        Fancy design shops    Snow fun & day trips
Best Of Reykjavík 2018 - The Reykjavik Grapevine
Winter
Scheduled Flights / Seven destinations

Westman Islands
One of the wonders of nature,
surrounded by mountains,
islands, volcanoes and seabirds.                                          Gjögur                     Húsavík

                                                                                      Sauðárkrókur
Vatnajökull Region                              Bíldudalur
Witness the majestic power
of Europe’s largest glacier or
conquer Iceland’s highest peak.

North Iceland
Visit Húsavík or Sauðárkrókur,
and witness the natural
wonders of North Iceland.
                                                                                                               Höfn
The Westfjords                                                 Reykjavík
Explore one of the country’s
most isolated regions, rich
in natural wonders.
                                                                                   Westman Islands

                  For more information, pick up our brochure at your hotel
                    or local tourist information centre, or visit eagleair.is

eagleair.is | +354 562 4200 | info@eagleair.is
Location: Behind Icelandair Hotel Reykjavík Natura at Reykjavík Airport
Best Of Reykjavík 2018 - The Reykjavik Grapevine
Seven destinations with year-
                              round possibilities, air charter
                                  services and day tours to
                            Iceland’s most beautiful places

Day Tours / Adventure Tours

Glacier Lagoons on Your Own                             Mývatn on Your Own
Day tours to the famous Glacier lagoon and              Exploring the Lake Mývatn area and
Europe’s largest glacier, Vatnajökull Glacier.          the natural wonders of North Iceland.

Day Tours to the Westman Islands                        Ice Caves and the Diamond Beach
These tours takes you from Reykjavík to the volcano     Explore the thrilling ice caves of Vatnajökull
island of Heimaey in the Westman Islands archipelago.   and Jökulsárlón’s glittering diamond beach.
Best Of Reykjavík 2018 - The Reykjavik Grapevine
4

                                                                                                                                      Best of Reykjavík:
Best of Reykjavík 2018
The Reykjavík Grapevine

                                                                                                                                        DINING                                                                8
                                                                                                                                        + Flatey slays the pizza scene P:20
                                                                                                                                        + Ports in a storm: warm places for cold days P:22

                          AN INTRODUCTION:
                                                                                                                                        DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE                                               24

                          O Spring,                                                                                                     + The city's finest drinking estabishments P:24
                                                                                                                                        + The cocktail crawl: fancy happy hours P:28

                          Where Art Thou?
                          The joke that Iceland only has two sea-                     2018. For example, we’ve seen a re-
                          sons comes with a kernel of truth. As                       cent trend for tasting menus, so you
                          the daffodils bloom in warmer climes,                       can now find out our top three in
                          Iceland lags behind. In fact, the first                     the dining section, and there’s been a
                          third of the year—where spring should                       groundswell of top quality artist-run
                          be—is a long, snowy extension of the                        spaces at the grassroots of the art               SHOPPING                                                           34
                          unpredictable shitstorm of winter.                          scene, which now have a category of
                              But life goes on—so welcome to the                      their own.                                        + The best homewares & fancy design stores P:40
                          ‘Spring’ edition of our Best Of Reyk-                           While you’re here, keep an eye out            + How to not let a snowstorm ruin your day and/or life P:42
                          javík magazine. To create this guide to                     for our sister publications, Best Of
                          the city, we dragged a selection of the                     Iceland and The Reykjavík Grape-
                          most knowledgeable shoppers, com-                           vine, for more news, culture, and trav-
                          mitted barflies, indefatigable hikers,                      el ideas, and download the Appy Hour
                          and most gluttonous gourmands from                          and Appening apps for cheap booze
                          their hibernation to help us compile                        deals and events listings.
                          this list of the best Reykjavík has to of-                      We hope you find this issue useful
                          fer. During the debates, we discussed                       and entertaining as you slither around
                          all the new galleries, up ‘n’ coming                        Reykjavík’s slippery streets and alley-
                          eateries and tucked away boutiques as                       ways. Take care of yourselves, and                ACTIVITIES                                                         42
                          we engaged in the fun and lengthy de-                       each other.
                          cision process.                                             John Rogers,                                      + Trust the locals: your perfect day in Reykjavík P:44
                              We also refreshed the awards for                        Best of Reykjavík Editor                          + Get outta town: the best ways to see the wilds P:46

                                                                  PUBLISHER             BEST OF SHOPPING         Valur Grettisson         Hrefna Björg                SHOPPING                Best of Reykjavík
                                                                 Hilmar Steinn             COMPILED BY                                     Gylfadóttir            Sif Baldursdóttir            by The Reykjavík
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Best Of Reykjavík 2018 - The Reykjavik Grapevine
The Reykjavík Grapevine
  Best of Reykjavík 2018   5
Best Of Reykjavík 2018 - The Reykjavik Grapevine
THE AWARDS:
   6

                                                             How We
Best of Reykjavík 2018
The Reykjavík Grapevine

ICELANDIC                                                    Picked the
SEAFOOD
 makes world’s best sushi                                    Winners

                                                                               The word “conclusion’’ is a little strong                       bespectacled jazz enthusiast. We’re not
                                                                               in this case. We have argued, fought and,                       saying those two groups can’t overlap.
                                                                               in one case, slammed our head against                           Maybe they can. Jazz people are good at
                                                                               the wall. We interviewed panels, tried                          improvising and noise music definitely
                                                                               blind taste-tests, and, in another case,                        needs more fans.
                                                                               consulted what we believe to be an or-                             The thing is this is a guide. It’s a work
                                                                               acle. This was not an easy or accurate                          in progress. It’s an attempt at letting
                                                                               endeavour.                                                      people know where we think they should
                                                                                   The best comparison is glíma, or                            go. We didn’t all agree on everything, so
                                                                               Icelandic wrestling. It’s not flashy or                         the runners up could end up being more
                                                                               well produced like WWE. It’s not exactly                        palatable to you, and the winners could
                                                                               graceful like Olympic wrestling, espe-                          be your third favourite. Yikes.
                                                                               cially Greco-Roman. It’s two people in                             If this lack of certainty is too much
                                                                               weird leather underwear, staring into                           for you: Imagine being the orig-
  The best of Icelandic                                                        each other’s eyes and trying to hip-check                       inal tourist to Iceland. A wandering
                                                                               each other while simultaneously attempt-                        tax-evader from Norway who decides
  produce with a nod                                                           ing an atomic wedgie.                                           to settle on a rock almost uninhabited
  to Japan and South                                                               We’ll be honest. Some of the winners                        by animal life. A land that occasion-
  America. Modern                                                              are just outright winners, but some are                         ally explodes and geysers that burst
                                                                               a matter of debate and controversy. Like                        scalding sulphur-scented water from
  Icelandic flavours,
                                                                               in any other country, there are cliques                         the ground like a cannon ball at Sa-
  share plates and award                                                       or special interest groups. The bar most                        tan’s pool party. It’s the kind of place
  winning cocktails.                                                           liked by a 22-year-old noise music fanat-                       where people would invent glíma. YU
                                                                               ic might seem a little off-putting to a

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                                  LOCALS                                                                     TO
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                                                                                                                                                                        REYKJAVÍK                           GRAPEVINE

                                                                                                                                                                                           R EYKJA
                                                                                                                                                                            S         T OF         VÍ
                                                                                                                                                                         BE                                                    K
                                                      Look out for these stickers of recom-
                                                      mendation, which we’ve handed out to
                                                      this year’s winners. They indicate your
                                                      best option, whether you’re looking for
 Our kitchen is open                                  shopping, dining, drinking or party-                                                                                                          2018
 17.00–23.00 sun.–thu.                                ing in Reykjavík. We at the Grapevine
 17.00–24.00 fri.–sat.                                know what’s best!
                                                                                                                                                                   BE
                                                         Also, these are the stickers from                                                                                 ST                                                  ON
                                                      our previous “Best of’’ selections, giv-                                                                                            BEER SELECTI
                                                      en to winners from prior years.
                                       Sushi Social
                  Þingholtsstræti 5 • 101 Reykjavík
                     Tel. 568 6600 • sushisocial.is
Best Of Reykjavík 2018 - The Reykjavik Grapevine
The Reykjavík Grapevine
  Best of Reykjavík 2018   7
Best Of Reykjavík 2018 - The Reykjavik Grapevine
BEST OF REYKJAVÍK 2018
   8

                                                                                                               Best Veggie Burger                           Best Pizza

                          Dining
Best of Reykjavík 2018
The Reykjavík Grapevine

                          Delicious even if you can't pronounce it
                          There has never been a more exciting time for the restaurant scene
                          in Reykjavik. Thanks to burgeoning tourism, exposure, and a genuine
                          curiosity for foods from far and wide, diners now have a plethora of
                          choices on offer. Whether it’s high-end fine dining (we even boast a Mi-
                          chelin starred gem!), or a cheap late night bite, Reykjavik is coming into
                          its own as a culinary destination, offering small plates, tasting menus,
                                                                                                               Prikið                                       Flatey
                          farm to table seasonal produce and classic Iceland cuisine, and all while            Bankastræti 12                               Grandagarður 11
                          accommodating vegans and vegetarians. The following restaurants are                  One might not necessarily think of           Few things get a Reykvíkingar’s heart
                          the very best, according to our panel of enthusiastic gourmands. Feel                Prikið—an antique diner turned hip-hop       racing like pizza, but for a pizza-loving
                          free to let us know what you think of our choices as you eat your way                party bar—when they think of food, let       nation, we’ve long had an unspeak-
                          around the city. We’re listening. And we’re hungry.                                  alone vegetarian food or vegan fare,         able affair with sloppy Domino’s. Not
                                                                                                               but they offer both. They actually have      anymore! True Napoli pizzas are now
                                                                                                               not one but two vegan burgers on the
                          Best burger                                                                          menu, both of which have their own
                                                                                                                                                            a reality in Reykjavík, with a pizzaiola
                                                                                                                                                            from Naples, a custom electric oven
                                                                                                               staunch fans. The Ronald vegan burger        that cooks pies in seconds, high-quality
                                                                                                               with coconut chips may sound weird,          ingredients atop every signature thin
                                                                                                               but it totally works. They also have a       slice, and leopard spot blistering. We’ve
                                                                                                               burger-and-a-beer happy hour so drop         already devoured our body weight in
                                                                                                               in and try it out.                           the Padrino and cheesy Tartufo. The
                                                                                                                                                            classic Margherita is also unmissable,
                                                                                                                                                            and divine in its simplicity.

                                                                                                               Runners Up                                   Runners Up

                          Le Kock
                          Ármúli 42
                                                                                                               Roadhouse Reykjavik
                                                                                                               Snorrabraut 56
                                                                                                               Roadhouse’s grilled celeriac ‘patty’ is
                                                                                                                                                            Eldofninn
                                                                                                                                                            Efstaland 26
                                                                                                                                                            Eldofninn has been pushing that
                                                                                                               one of the best interpretations of a         doughy envelope with topping com-
                                                                                                               vegan/veggie burger. Without resorting       binations that’ll leave you scratching
                          Bad boys on the block, Le Kock, have thrown down the gauntlet to the                 to Oumph, or the mystery mushy patty         your head at first, but rubbing your
                          many burger joints in town, beating the competition by a long shot.                  trickery, it’s a clever, smoky, delicious    belly later. Try the beetroot pizza or the
                                                                                                               beast with all the trimmings. It’s           soya mushroom, sausage and pickled
                          Is it the house-made potato rolls that don’t crumble or deflate until
                                                                                                               available in both vegan and vegetarian       chilli number, and make a night of it
                          the last bite? Is it the patty:bun ratio? The classic condiments? Or the             versions.                                    with some excellent cocktails from
                          Greek fries with herb dressing? Their no-nonsense attitude to food,                                                               the bar.
                          insistence on top-notch ingredients, and dedication to making the
                          best burger possible has won us over. Go for the classic cheeseburger,
                          and leave with some of their ridiculously good doughnuts.

                          Runners Up

                                                                      Block Burger
                                                                      Skólavörðustígur 8
                                                                                                               Newcomer: Bio Borgari
                                                                      Block Burger may have been heavily
                                                                                                               Vesturgata 12                                Hornið
                                                                      inspired (ahem) by Shake Shack, sans
                                                                                                               A tiny crowd-funded burger shack run         Hafnarstræti 15
                                                                      the mega chain’s signature potato roll
                                                                                                               by two young entrepreneurs, Bio Bor-         Hornið is an old school pizza joint where
                                                                      buns. Block Burger slings excellent
                                                                                                               gari takes clean eating seriously. Their     you can break bread with your grand-
                                                                      hamburgers—their hand-shaped
                                                                                                               produce is organic, their buns seeded,       ma and toddler, or show up nursing a
                                                                      patties make for a tender, unevenly
                                                                                                               and their wafer-thin root vegetables         hangover, heartache, or both. With thin
                                                                      edged, perfectly crisped, delectable
                                                                                                               would give Tyrell’s a run for their money.   crust pizzas and a no-frills Italian-Amer-
                                                                      burger, topped off by their signature
                                                                                                               The lentil seed patty is crisp and fla-      ican flair in the decor as well as the
                          Hamborgarabúllan                            sauce with sharp mustard. And at 1,180
                                                                                                               vourful. For an unconventional take on       toppings, this is a local treasure. We
                          Multiple outlets                            ISK, the price is right.
                                                                                                               the burger, Bio Borgari is a good bet.       swear by their quattro stagioni.
                          Love it or hate it, Búllan is still going
                          strong after all these years. The
                          Geirsgata old-style burger joint            Previous Winners                         Previous Winners                             Previous Winners
                          location—the cutest one in downtown         2017: Sæta Svínið                        2017: Bike Cave                              2017: Hornið
                          Reykjavik—is made better by the smoky       2015-6: Búllan                           2016: Búllan                                 2014-6: Hverfisgata 12
                          steak burger. Pair it with some fries and   2014: Kex Hostel                         2015: Brooklyn Bar                           2013: Gamla Smiðjan
                          a milkshake, and you have the quintes-      2013: Vitabar                            2013-4: Búllan
                          sential American fast-food meal.
Best Of Reykjavík 2018 - The Reykjavik Grapevine
9
Best Bakery                                                                            Best Coffee                                 Best Coffeehouse

                                                                                                                                                                                The Reykjavík Grapevine
                                                                                                                                                                                  Best of Reykjavík 2018
                                                                                                                                   Kaffihús
                                                                                       Kaffifélagið                                Vesturbæjar
                                                                                       Skólavörðustígur 10                         Melhagi 20-22

                                                                                       Probably the smallest coffee bar in         Kaffi Vest has the staunchest loyalists.
                                                                                       Iceland, Kaffifélagið continues to churn    An all-purpose neighbourhood
                                                                                       out cupful after strong cupful of Italian   café-coffeehouse-bar-restaurant
                                                                                       coffee, brewed to perfection. As one        establishment, they serve good coffee,
                                                                                       regular on our panel quipped: ”There’s      excellent Sara Bernhardt cookies, and
                                                                                       no bullshit and no frills—just excellent    huge slices of chocolate or carrot
                                                                                       coffee.” Take-away may be the most          cake. Located close to Vesturbæjarlaug
                                                                                       popular, but we recommend sitting           pool, the café itself is cosy, with a vibe
                                                                                       down in the window area, and taking in      that lends itself equally to a post-swim
                                                                                       the charms of the espresso machine          lunch, working on your thesis, flirting
                                                                                       lined walls, and watching folk walk         on a first date, or haggling fees with
                                                                                       by—mostly oblivious to this tiny gem’s      a client. The lack of sound dampeners
                                                                                       existence.                                  makes it pretty noisy in the evening, but
                                                                                                                                   if you can get over that, you’re golden.

Brauð&Co, Sandholt                                                                     Runners Up                                  Runners Up

Joint winners

                                            cinnamon bread rolls that are taken a
                                            step further here and stuffed with blue-
                                            berries and liquorice, granola crumble
                                            or poppy seed and vanilla—eliciting
                                            inappropriate satisfied moans from our
                                            panel. The latest lemon cruffins have
                                            us hyperventilating, but the cinnamon      Reykjavik Roasters                          Reykjavik Roasters
                                            sugar croissant roll will always have      Brautarholt 2 & Kárastígur 1                Brautarholt 2 & Kárastígur 1
                                            our heart. Don’t forget to try the dense   This is the place for those who obsess      With some of the best coffee in Iceland,
                                            seeded Danish rye bread, which they        over their Aeropress and V60s. Roasters     Roasters offers the full Scandi coffee
                                            conveniently have mini loaf versions of,   has your geeky caffeine addiction           house experience, but they're best
                                            no bigger than your palm, studded with     covered—gadgets included. They have         known for their specialty coffe and
                                            chocolate chips—perfect for snacking       a variety of milk types, conjuring up       their in-house roasted beans. The
                                            or taking on board your next flight.       images of hand-milked individual soy        crowded Kárastígur branch is best for
                                                                                       beans—but in all seriousness, they are      takeouts and dropping in; Brautarholt
Sandholt                                                                               all great.                                  for working away from your desk.
Laugavegur 36                               Runner Up
This local institution continues to draw
lines of curious tourists, and with their
new extension, there’s more room for
them. The sourdough is deservedly
well-known, and if a whole loaf is too
much, they oblige by slicing just what
you need. If you’re staying or straying
close by, grab one of their delicious
loaves or a bag of pastries for snacks.

                                            Passion Álfheimum                          Cafe Haiti                                  Bismut
                                            Álfheimum 6                                Geirsgata 7B                                Hverfisgata 82
                                            Slightly out of the city centre is the     Elda Thorisson-Faurelien at Cafe            Newcomer: The coolest kid on the
                                            Passion bakery, a little tucked away       Haiti uses Haitian coffee beans, freshly    block, Bismut has a shiny bar, windows
                                            suburban joint that offers excellent       roasted and ground every day. Besides       overlooking Hverfisgata, and exhi-
                                            sourdough bread, pastries, and             classic Italian coffee, the café also       bitions by local artists. In a different
                                            all kinds of sweet treats. Loyalists       offers Arabic and Turkish varieties.        league from chain cafés, Bismut is
                                            describe it as a hidden diamond: it’s      The beautiful location by the harbour       perfect for those of us who don't care
                                            certainly worth checking out should        makes for a pleasant walk, and the café     for medium-roast coffees, and their
                                            you be in the area.                        is a welcome respite from the rassgat       precisely brewed coffees come in
                                                                                       winds of Reykjavik.                         signature yellow cups.

                                            Previous Winners                           Previous Winners                            Previous Winners
Brauð & Co.                                 2013-7: Sandholt                           New category!                               2017: Reykjavik Roasters
Frakkastígur 16                                                                                                                    2016: Stofan
Brauð & Co. have won the hearts of                                                                                                 2015: Kaffihús Vesturbæjar
the carb-butter loving nation in their                                                                                             2014: Reykjavík Roasters
pursuit of the best baked goods.                                                                                                   2013: Kaffismiðjan
Regulars swear by their “snúður”—local
Best Of Reykjavík 2018 - The Reykjavik Grapevine
BEST OF REYKJAVÍK 2018
   10

                                                                                                               Best Indian                                 Best Thai/Chinese

                          Dining
Best of Reykjavík 2018
The Reykjavík Grapevine

                          Iceland's not cheap so it better be good

                          Best Sushi
                                                                                                               Austur-
                                                                                                               Indíafélagið                                Ban Thai & Fönix
                                                                                                               Hverfisgata 56                              Joint winners

                                                                                                               Still going strong twenty years on, this    Ban Thai
                                                                                                               is an institution in its own right, con-    Laugavegur 130
                                                                                                               sistently dishing out quality Indian fare   Despite new Thai restaurants in town,
                                                                                                               without compromising on authenticity.       Ban Thai rules the roost. Don't be fooled
                                                                                                               A small rotational menu with regional       by their extensive menu—these guys
                                                                                                               dishes, this is the place if you are        mean business. It’s a whirlwind tour of
                                                                                                               celebrating a birthday, wooing your         regional Thai cuisine, including creamy
                                                                                                               partner, or simply taking a break from      coconut curries from the South and
                                                                                                               the monotony. Word to the wise? Make        fiery “jungle” dishes from the North. Our
                                                                                                               a meal of the salmon pollichathu, kozhi     advice is to skip the starters and go for
                                                                                                               mappas and kulchas and share it family      the green curry with strips of crunchy
                                                                                                               style. Keep your eyes peeled for the        bamboo, or the spicy pad krapow,
                                                                                                               vegetarian and vegan dishes as well.        redolent with fresh basil and birdseye
                                                                                                               Call ahead to make reservations.            chillies. Wash it all down with an ice-
                                                                                                                                                           cold Tsinga beer.
                                                                                                               Runners Up
                                                                                                                                                           Joint Winner: Fönix
                                                                                                                                                           Höfði
                                                                                                                                                           It is hard to get good Chinese food in
                          Fiskmarkaðurinn                                                                                                                  Reykjavik, but amidst limited choices,
                                                                                                                                                           Fönix offers a surprisingly good range
                          Aðalstræti 12                                                                                                                    of staples, and some Sichuanese fare
                                                                                                                                                           as well. The mapo tofu is loaded with
                                                                                                                                                           cubes of silky tofu and a smattering
                          Hands down our panel's favourite sushi restaurant in town, we sug-                                                               of dochi, and is available in a vegan
                          gest making a meal of the sashimi platter. It’s beautifully presented at                                                         version too. For those working around
                          the table, with a lot of flair, and deftly sliced fatty salmon and trout,            Shalimar                                    Hofði, the lunch buffet is okay, but we
                          and glistening scallop—left mercifully unadorned—with a sprinkle                     Austurstræti 4                              recommend going for the works. The
                                                                                                               Shalimar’s Pakistani fare might have        wonton soup and a side of steamed
                          of roe here, and a delicious mound of wakame there. All of this beau-                                                            dumplings won’t break the bank.
                                                                                                               seen variable quality over the last few
                          tiful food is only made better by the table-side grating of fresh, locally           years, but they are back now with re-
                          grown, Icelandic wasabi. Pair it with the wasabi cocktail and you have               newed energy. We recommend making
                          a delicious and refreshing meal.                                                     a meal of the thali - simple delicious      Runner Up
                                                                                                               fare, with an everyday rotation of a
                                                                                                               lip-smacking assortment of curries,
                          Runners Up                                                                           rice, naan and classic tandoori chicken.
                                                                                                               Finish off with some creamy kheer.

                                                                                                                                                           Mai Thai Bistro
                                                                                                                                                           Laugavegur 118
                                                                                                                                                           For affordable, quick and satisfying Thai
                                                                   Sushi Social                                Hraðlestin                                  fare, Mai Thai is a safe bet. The curry
                          Sushibarinn
                                                                   Þingholtsstræti 5                           Lækjargata 8                                pastes may not be made from scratch,
                          Suðurlandsbraut 10
                          Housed in a beautiful old timber house   Not for worshippers of ‘Jiro dreams         The affordable sibling of Austur            but the food is fresh, the service swift
                          in the heart of downtown, Sushibarinn    of sushi’, Sushi Social is the evolution    Indíafélagið, mixing a Bollywood interior   and the flavours perfect for the nippy
                          offers a variety of sauce-laden sushi    of Japanese dish on this island—aka         with vintage movie posters and antique      weather in Reykjavik. The menu chang-
                          rolls—the local favourite—but we rec-    ‘pylsu sushi’. Traditionalists may baulk,   furniture. The chicken 65 and the thalis    es every day, and there’s a grocery
                          ommend sticking to their fresh sashimi   but the surf and turf rolls have a loyal    win the popularity contest, but the         store for hard-to-find home cooking
                          platters and washing it down with        following, and the exhaustive cocktail      masala chai—“the closest to an Indian       ingredients.
                          something from their saké selection.     menu should help any sushi purists          mum’s version,” said the panel—should
                          Sakébarinn, located downstairs with an   through the fusion-cooking trauma.          be as popular as the mango lassi.
                          entrance on Laugavegur, offers window
                          seats and takeout.                       Previous Winners                            Previous Winners                            Previous Winners
                                                                   2016-7: Fiskmarkaðurinn                     2016-7: Austur-Indíafjelagið                2014-7: Ban Thai
                                                                   2015: SuZushii                              2014-5: Gandhi                              2013: Yummi Yummi
                                                                   2014: Sushisamba                            2013: Austurlandahraðlestin
                                                                   2013: Sakebarinn
WHALE

                                                                        11
                                                                        The Reykjavík Grapevine
                                                                          Best of Reykjavík 2018
WATCHING
AKUREYRI • REYKJAVIK
                                                  EXCE
                                           SUCC T       LLEN

                                               ESS
                                            Sig
                                           guarhating
                                                 ntee

       Tel: (+354) 462 6800 • info@ambassador.is • ambassador.is
          AmbassadorWhaleWatching   whales_in_iceland     @AmbassadorWhale
BEST OF REYKJAVÍK 2018
   12

                                                                                                                Best Place For A Fancy Meal                   Best Family Meal

                          Dining
Best of Reykjavík 2018
The Reykjavík Grapevine

                          Not everything is shark and sheep head

                          Best Goddamn Restaurant                                                                                                             Jamie’s Italian
                                                                                                                                                              Pósthússtræti 11
                                                                                                                Dill
                                                                                                                Hverfisgata 12                                When Jamie’s first opened its doors,
                                                                                                                                                              critics were eager to see how the
                                                                                                                                                              restaurant would fare. Like all the
                                                                                                                If you’re a gourmand looking for a mem-
                                                                                                                                                              Jamie’s franchises worldwide, the Reyk-
                                                                                                                orable meal when in Reykjavík, Dill has
                                                                                                                                                              javík location has family at its core. The
                                                                                                                to top the list. Dill showcases the best
                                                                                                                                                              spacious booth seating, fresh, hand-
                                                                                                                of Iceland with seasonal menus, paying
                                                                                                                                                              made pasta that would appeal to the
                                                                                                                homage to the island’s bounty, often
                                                                                                                                                              very young, old and those in between,
                                                                                                                found no place else, executed with
                                                                                                                                                              at prices that do not break the bank,
                                                                                                                all the tweezer-precision of modern
                                                                                                                                                              and the very attractive option to have
                                                                                                                cuisine. Don’t even think twice about
                                                                                                                                                              half portions makes this a clear winner.
                                                                                                                splurging for the seven-course menu—
                                                                                                                                                              “They don’t infantilize the children’s
                                                                                                                it’s the only way to do it. Top-notch
                                                                                                                                                              menu,” observed one panellist, “and
                                                                                                                service and friendly sommeliers round
                                                                                                                                                              parents can have a good time too.”
                                                                                                                off an already perfect experience.

                                                                                                                Runners Up                                    Runners Up

                          Mat Bar
                          Hverfisgata 26
                                                                                                                Grillmarket                                   Hamborgarafabrikkan
                          An across the board favourite, Mat Bar is probably the only restaurant                Lækjargata 2a                                 Hofðatorg, Kringlan
                          in town that takes its seasonal produce first approach to its menu se-                The locally-sourced tasting menus of          Kids’ choice: For birthday parties or a
                                                                                                                Grillmarket have been a hit with diners
                          riously enough to churn out seven menus since opening. In a stylish                                                                 regular old outing with the fam, 'Fab-
                                                                                                                since this place opened its doors. A          rikkan is ideal for a louder-than-usual
                          dining room with an open kitchen, this devil-may-care attitude trans-                 favourite ‘fancy place’ for locals, the       outing. There are plenty of distractions
                          lates to unconventional yet delicious food, from Icelandic monkfish                   restaurant recently upped its game by         for young diners, and orders from
                          livers to grilled, stuffed squid, a stellar hand-stretched mozzarella                 offering fresh, locally grown Icelandic       the extensive burger menu are taken
                                                                                                                wasabi, available nowhere else. Our
                          with pickled tomatoes, rosemary-dusted lamb chops, and a smooth-                                                                    early and served quickly to keep young
                                                                                                                panel suggested pairing the wasabi            temperaments in line, all without com-
                          ie-lookalike cocktail in the basil gobernador. If all that wasn’t enough,             with a steak, and something from the          promising on service.
                          they raise the bar for vegetarian dishes too. One panellist summed it                 exhaustive wine list.
                          up as “a marriage of fire and flavour, plate after plate.”

                          Runners Up

                                                                                                                Apotek Restaurant                             Bryggjan Brugghús
                                                                   Hverfisgata 12                               Austurstræti 16                               Grandagarður 8
                                                                   Hverfisgata 12                               This sleek, spacious downtown bar             Parents’ choice: The food may be hit
                                                                   Despite murmurs about blips in quality       and dining room has that all-important        and miss, but this spacious microbrew-
                                                                   at peak times, this cosy pizza joint         fancy feeling, matched by service that’s      ery is popular with families. There’s end-
                                                                   remains a beloved downtown “happy            attentive without being intrusive, and        less space for energetic young ones to
                                                                   place” for many. Their hearty pizzas are     locally sourced ingredients cooked            expend some energy, and service that
                          Snaps                                                                                 to perfection and presented with a            makes them feel welcome. Parents can
                                                                   inventively-topped, their brunch menu
                          Þórsgata 1                                                                            flourish. The cocktails are excellent,        sit back and relax over a house-brewed
                                                                   has interesting options, the decadent
                          Restaurants may come and go, but                                                      and whether it’s a date or a birthday, it’s   beer without worrying about their
                                                                   sides are meals in themselves, and
                          Snaps remains beloved by all. The                                                     a safe choice for a special occasion.         young wards. What’s not to like?
                                                                   their cocktails hit the spot without fail.
                          house fries—a mound of perfectly fried
                          spuds—are reason enough alone to
                          make a trip to the cosy, plant-bright-   Previous Winners                             Previous Winners                              Previous Winners
                          ened bistro. Casual but chic, it’s
                          somewhere to see and be seen. Did        2017: Snaps / Matur og Drykkur               2014-7: Dill                                  2017: Hamborgarafabrikkan
                          we mention they make a stellar crème     2014-6: Snaps                                2013: Gallery at Hótel Holt (RIP)             2016: Laundromat
                          brulée as well? A true keeper.                                                                                                      2015: KEX Hostel
                                                                                                                                                              2013-4: Laundromat
13
                                The Reykjavík Grapevine
                                  Best of Reykjavík 2018
PIZZA NAPOLETANA

  MARGHERITA
   @FLATEYPIZZA FLATEY.PIZZA
   GRANDAGARÐUR 11
   101 REYKJAVÍK +354 5882666
BEST OF REYKJAVÍK 2018
   14

                                                                                                                  Best Vegetarian Meal                        Best Vegan Meal

                          Dining
Best of Reykjavík 2018
The Reykjavík Grapevine

                          Make it worth the wait

                          Best Cheap Meal
                                                                                                                                                              Skál!
                                                                                                                  Mat Bar, Shalimar                           Hlemmur, Laugavegur 107
                                                                                                                  Joint winners
                                                                                                                                                              Since its opening, Skál has served up
                                                                                                                  Mat Bar                                     vegan versions of almost their entire
                                                                                                                  Hverfisgata 26                              menu. We’re currently crushing on
                                                                                                                                                              the smoked carrots with avocados,
                                                                                                                  This stylishly designed restaurant has
                                                                                                                                                              seaweed salt and lovage mayo, piled
                                                                                                                  an interesting variety of vegetari-
                                                                                                                                                              atop a gorgeous seeded Danish rye
                                                                                                                  an dishes that go way beyond the
                                                                                                                                                              bread. The portions are tapas-size, so
                                                                                                                  standard salad and side-dish options.
                                                                                                                                                              feel free to try multiple dishes, but
                                                                                                                  Their grilled carrots are as good as
                                                                                                                                                              whatever you do, don’t leave without
                                                                                                                  any grilled meat we’ve had, and the
                                                                                                                                                              trying the roasted broccoli—smoky,
                                                                                                                  radicchio salad with toasted nuts and
                                                                                                                                                              tender broccoli halves, doused with a
                                                                                                                  goat cheese or spicy bok choy with
                                                                                                                                                              creamy sauce and nutmeg. So, so good!
                                                                                                                  fermented oranges are the stuff of
                                                                                                                                                              While the menu may not explicitly mark
                                                                                                                  vegetarian dreams. Seasonality is a key
                                                                                                                                                              out the vegan options, just ask, and the
                                                                                                                  focus at Mat Bar, so be warned that
                                                                                                                                                              kitchen will oblige.
                                                                                                                  favourites may vanish suddenly when
                                                                                                                  the menu changes, but something
                                                                                                                  surprising and new will spring up in        Runners Up

                          Icelandic Street Food
                                                                                                                  their place.

                                                                                                                  Shalimar
                                                                                                                  Austurstræti 4
                          Lækjargata 8
                                                                                                                  The vegetarian thali at Shalimar comes
                                                                                                                  chock full of seasonal veggies in a me-
                          You can’t really beat the incredible prices at this tiny spot with a big                lange of flavours, spices, and colours.
                                                                                                                  Unlike the à la carte menu, the thali
                          heart. All the soups are offered in a bread bowl version—and wait for
                                                                                                                  offerings change every day, so expect
                          it—unlimited refills! In a country that prides itself on the quality of                 beetroot cooked in a savoury, tangy
                          its free-range lamb, kjötsúpa is a must try. It’s a hearty bowl of lamb                 stir-fry one day, or gourds and squash
                                                                                                                  in a heady gravy on another. It’s home-     Kaffi Vínyl
                          chunks and vegetables that’s old school in a good way. The fisher-                                                                  Hverfisgata 76
                                                                                                                  style cooking, with restaurant flair, and
                          man’s meal is also popular—a tasty plokkfiskur of mashed potato                                                                     Reykjavík’s only fully vegan café is
                                                                                                                  the kitchen puts effort into the simple
                          and fish, with bread and butter. The soups start at 1,390 ISK—if you’d                  desi buffet. Don’t waste your krona on      Kaffi Vínyl. They offer wholesome fare
                          like to try Icelandic food without breaking the bank, this is the spot.                 the mango lassi—it’s an unnecessary         in generous portions, with soy-based
                                                                                                                  distraction from the food.                  Oumph meat substitute, and various
                                                                                                                                                              non-dairy milk options for the beverag-
                          Runners Up                                                                                                                          es. The food has been hit and miss—a
                                                                                                                  Runner Up                                   reflection of changes in the kitchen, no
                                                                                                                                                              doubt—but regulars swear by the Pad
                                                                                                                                                              Thai and the Oumph sandwiches.

                                                                                                                  Pallett
                                                                                                                  Strandgata 75, Hafnarfjörður
                                                                                                                  It might seem odd to give this award        Út í Bláinn
                          Noodle Station                             Bike Cave                                                                                Perlan, Öskjuhlíð
                                                                                                                  to a place with only one permanent
                          Laugavegur 103                             Einarsnes 36                                                                             Newcomer: Sitting pretty atop Öskjuhlíð,
                          Walking down Laugavegur, towards           The cheeseburger at Bike Cave is still a     vegetarian option on the menu, but
                                                                                                                                                              Út í Bláinn is the new restaurant in
                          Hlemmur, the inviting scent of cinna-      steal at just 995 ISK. There are plenty of   the veggie sausage roll at Pallett is the
                                                                                                                                                              Perlan. With 360 views of nature and
                          mon, star anise and coriander leads        vegetarian and vegan options, a friend-      stuff of dreams. With melt-in-the-mouth     the city—reason enough to warrant a
                          one to Noodle Station. In this more spa-   ly residential Sphinx cat, and a darn        flaky buttery pastry and a tasty, spicy     visit—the restaurant also offers vegan
                          cious location, they continue to serve     good view of the airstrip still warrants a   filling, it’s a true Grapevine favourite.   dishes put together by chefs with fine
                          up bottomless bowls of intense broth,      trip to the ‘other’ side of town.            Also, the coffee is so good it’d be worth   dining experience. We recommend the
                          with either meat, chicken or veggies,                                                   the trip to Hafnarfjörður alone.            cauliflower dish with capers.
                          the cheapest veggie soup coming in at
                          less than 1,000 ISK.
                                                                     Previous Winners                             Previous Winners                            Previous Winners
                                                                     2017: Bike Cave                              2016-17: Kaffi Vínyl                        New category!
                                                                     2016: Noodle Station                         2015: Teni
                                                                     2015: K-Bar                                  2013-14: Gló
                                                                     2014: 10-11 after 14:00
                                                                     2013: “Sub of the month” at Subway
15
                                                                              The Reykjavík Grapevine
                                                                                Best of Reykjavík 2018

BSÍ Bus Terminal • 101 Reykjavík •   +354 580 5400 • main@re.is • www.re.is
16

                                                      Best Brunch                                  Best Seafood                                Must-Try Dining
                                                                                                                                               Experience
Best of Reykjavík 2018
The Reykjavík Grapevine

                                                                                                   Fiskmarkaðurinn
                                                      Cafe Paris                                   & Fish Company                              Matur & Drykkur
                                                      Austurstræti 14                              Joint winners                               Grandagarður 2

                                                      Cafe Paris’s European style brunch           Fiskmarkaðurinn                             Matur og Drykkur continues to grab
                                                      with a few American classics thrown in,      Aðalstræti 12                               attention with its Instagram-worthy
                                                      make for a must-do weekend activity.         “I haven’t had better salmon,” said         entré of a whole cod head, cooked in
                                                      Near perfect eggs florentine, top-notch      one panellist, of the robota grilled        chicken stock then glazed and torched.
                                                      fried chicken with waffles, and a hulk-      salmon at Fish Market. The Japanese         Whether you’re scoring likes or foodie
                                                      ing stack of pancakes with a generous        grill is put to good use here, with the     bragging rights, this is the definitive
                                                      jug of maple syrup, some bubbly to pair      seafood seared, smokey, and tender.         adventurous dish to try in Reykjavík. The
                                                      it with, and the quintessential brunch       The split level restaurant is ideal for     meat is tender, and knives and forks
                                                      experience is complete. We advise you        business shake-downs as well as being       are redundant—go in with a spoon. It
                                                      to take your time at brunch here, why        group-friendly, and the bar on the first    comes with the unctuous and creamy
                                                      not round things off with steak and          floor is perfect for a first date. The      ‘gellur’—cod tongue—fried in a light

 THE HOME                                             eggs? We for one can barely wait for
                                                      the summer to sit outdoors on the café
                                                                                                   tasting menus come recommended, as
                                                                                                   are the interesting concoctions from
                                                                                                                                               tempura-like batter and served on the
                                                                                                                                               side. Matur og Drykkur is also one of a

OF ICELANDIC
                                                      patio and sip our Bellinis.                  the bar. Everything on the menu gets an     handful of restaurants that honours
                                                                                                   Asian nod, and the approach to fusion       traditional Icelandic cooking by ele-
                                                                                                   cooking always hits the spot. For an        vating it to fine-dining status, without
                                                      Runners Up

 SEAFOOD
                                                                                                   extravagant seafood experience, Fish        reducing it to a shock-value spectacle.
                                                                                                   Market is your safest bet.
                                                                                                                                               Runners Up

 AND LAMB                                                                                          Fish Company
                                                                                                   Vesturgata 2a
                                                                                                   The Fish Company steadfastly dishes
                                                                                                   up some of the best seafood in
          APOTEK Kitchen+Bar is                                                                    Iceland. While the panel noted a lack of
      a casual-smart restaurant located                                                            evolution in the menu, consistency is
                                                                                                   king here. Case in point: the deceptively
             in one of Reykjavíks                                                                  named lobster salad—a feast for one,
                                                      Haust
          most historical buildings.                  Fosshotel, Þórunnartún 1
                                                                                                   with generous portions of deep-fried
                                                                                                   lobster, tiger shrimp and fresh, spright-
        We specialize in fresh seafood                With American inspired brunch staples,
                                                                                                   ly salad.
                                                      efficient service, and room for the
            and local ingredients                     young and your extended family,                                                          Café Loki
        prepared with a modern twist.                 Haust’s brunch is a well-kept secret. “El-   Runner Up                                   Lokastígur 28
                                                      egant and laidback, you can take your                                                    Café Loki seems to be have been
                                                      child, or your mother-in-law—it’s like                                                   around for as long as Hallgrímskirkja it-
                                                      being in a nice hotel,” said the panel.                                                  self. Unassuming and simple, they were
                                                                                                                                               on the ‘dung smoked fish’ bandwagon
                                                                                                                                               before it was cool. Most new Icelanders
                APOTEK KITCHEN+BAR                                                                                                             had an initiation into Icelandic food at
          Austurstræti 16 101 Reykjavík   apotek.is                                                                                            Café Loki. The rye bread soup and ice-
                                                                                                                                               cream are excellent, and you can try
                                                                                                                                               fermented shark and Brennivin.

                                                                                                                                               Sægreifinn
                                                                                                   Messinn                                     Geirsgata 8
                                                                                                   Lækjargata 6                                No longer a secret, this harbourside
                                                                                                   Inspired by the well-known Tjöruhúsið       restaurant has seen a drop in the
                                                      Snaps                                                                                    quality of their signature soup in recent
                                                                                                   restaurant in Ísafjörður, Messinn
                                                      Þórsgata 1                                                                               years, but the number of visitors has
                                                                                                   honours Icelandic seafood by serving
                                                      Snaps serves up a brunch perfect for
                                                                                                   it in generous family-sized servings.       only risen. However, it’s still a cosy
                                                      a laid-back Sunday morning recov-
                                                                                                   The focus is squarely on the fresh in-      place, the seafood kebabs are a good
                                                      ery session. Choose from various
                                                                                                   gredients, simple sauces, and a side of     bet, and the soup is still comforting on
                                                      omelettes, classic eggs benedict, and
                                                                                                   vegetables. The fish is always perfectly    blighty days.
                                                      croque monsieurs, and add a mimosa
                                                                                                   cooked, and they serve up fantastic
                                                      if the mood strikes you. If that isn’t
                                                                                                   plokkfiskur and arctic char, and a mean
                                                      your tipple of choice, they have a great
                                                                                                   salmon burger.
                                                      bloody mary and a dedicated g’n’t
                                                      menu.

                                                      Previous Winners                             Previous Winners                            Previous Winners
                                                      2017: Vox                                    2013-17: Fiskfélagið                        2016-17: Matur og Drykkur
                                                      2016: Coocoo’s Nest                                                                      2015: Shrimp pyramid at Jómfrúin
                                                      2015: Slippbarinn                                                                        2014: Food section at Kolaportið
                                                      2014: Coocoo’s Nest                                                                      2013: Icelandic food at Kaffi Loki
                                                      2013: Vox
Grand

                                                                                                 17
                                                                                                 The Reykjavík Grapevine
                                                                                                   Best of Reykjavík 2018
  Golden
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BEST OF REYKJAVÍK 2018
   18

                                                                                                                  Best Late-Night Bite                        Best Place To Go With A
                                                                                                                                                              Group Of Friends

                          Dining
Best of Reykjavík 2018
The Reykjavík Grapevine

                          Stuff your face, daintily

                          Best Lunch Place

                                                                                                                  Mandi                                       Tapas barinn
                                                                                                                  Veltusund 3b                                Vesturgata 3b

                                                                                                                  “It should make your hands dirty. You       Tapas barinn may not be faithful to the
                                                                                                                  should need five napkins at least,” said    Spanish definition of a tapas bar, but
                                                                                                                  the panel. And that’s what you’ll get at    what they do capture well—and bois-
                                                                                                                  Mandi. Their quesadilla-like arais maria    terously at that—is the atmosphere
                                                                                                                  is thin flatbread stuffed with ground       and liveliness of tapas. It’s long been a
                                                                                                                  lamb and spices, grilled and served like    local tradition to host reunions, bach-
                                                                                                                  a Syrian calzone, only better. The guys     elor parties and noisy get-togethers at
                                                                                                                  behind the counter are forever smiling,     Tapas barinn. The food is served for the
                                                                                                                  the food is cheap, the crowd is bustling    whole table, and the selection is huge,
                                                                                                                  and tipsy after 4am, and it hits all the    spanning local langoustine, puffin and
                                                                                                                  bases for being a sweet post-party          lamb, as well as more global fare. And
                                                                                                                  snack spot like no other.                   it’s all delicious.

                          Snaps
                                                                                                                  Runners Up                                  Runners Up

                          Þórsgata 1

                          Oh, Snaps, our most beloved bistro! If the experience of their rising
                          dinner prices and peak-hour waiting times stills stings, it’s time to
                          heal that wound by dropping in for lunch instead. There’s a faultless
                          fish of the day, prompt service, and a little bit of daytime quiet to your-
                          self. Psst: if with a co-worker, split the crème brulée, and we promise
                                                                                                                  Devitos                                     Marshall House Bar + Restaurant
                          your day will be brighter from that moment on.                                          Laugavegur 126                              Grandagarður 20
                                                                                                                  If you were born in the 80s, then           Newcomer: It may not be the first place
                                                                                                                  chances are you’ve spent at least           one thinks of—101-dwelling Icelanders
                                                                                                                  two decades worth of late-night             find anything outside of their 100m ra-
                                                                                                                  pizza bingeing at Devitos. Available by     dius far away—but The Marshall House
                          Runners Up                                                                              the slice or as whole pies, it’s on the     is a seriously underrated place to start
                                                                                                                  weekend that Devitos really steps up        or end the night. With great cocktails,
                                                                                                                  its customer care game. Their greasy        finger-licking food and a beautiful har-
                                                                                                                  slices are done just right.                 bourside location, it’s a classy affair.

                          Grillmarket                                Ostabúðin
                          Lækjargata 2a                              Skólavörðustígur 8                           Dirty Burger and Ribs                       Sushi Social
                          Even though they don’t advertise it,       No longer a ‘secret lunch spot’ spot,        Austurstræti 18                             Þingholtsstræti 5
                          Grillmarket offers an excellent value      Ostabúðin is great nonetheless. Their        “Nothing beats eating juicy, sticky         With colourful cocktails, festive music,
                          lunch. The burger is popular, but we       fish of the day is 1,990 ISK at lunchtime,   ribs after a night of drinking,” said our   and service that’s eager to please, Sushi
                          recommend the salted cod. “It’s not too    and you can get a half portion of the        increasingly peckish panel. The ribs at     Social takes the ‘social’ part seriously.
                          salty, and perfectly cooked every time,”   soup if you’re hangry. The seafood soup      Dirty Burger and Ribs are salty, sweet,     The drinks keep coming, the food isn’t
                          said the panel. And at 2,990 ISK instead   has generous chunks of white fish,           and fall-off-the-bone tender. If that       too heavy, and the peppy carnival vibe
                          of the 5,990 ISK price at dinner, it’s a   cooked just right by the warmth of the       doesn’t convince you, we don’t know         and downtown location make it perfect
                          lunchtime steal.                           soup itself.                                 what will.                                  to start the night before heading out to
                                                                                                                                                              djamma like a true Reykvíkingar.

                                                                     Previous Winners                             Previous Winners                            Previous Winners
                                                                     2017: Snaps                                  2017: Ali Baba                              2015-7: Tapas barinn
                                                                     2015-6: Ostabúðin                            2016: Fish and Chips                        2013-14: KEX
                                                                     2014: Bergsson Mathús                        2015: Dirty Burger & Ribs
                                                                                                                  2014: Nonnabiti
19
Best Newcomer                                   Best Ice Cream                              Best Tasting Menu                            Best Italian

                                                                                                                                                                                    The Reykjavík Grapevine
                                                                                                                                                                                      Best of Reykjavík 2018
Nostra                                          Skúbb                                       Dill                                         Marshall House
Laugavegur 59                                   Laugarásvegur 1                             Hverfisgata 12                               Bar + Restaurant
                                                                                                                                         Veltusund 3b
“Nostra” translates to ‘meticulous detail’      Giving stiff competition to granddaddy      Dill has been doing tasting menus
in Icelandic. This philosophy is distilled      Valdís, Skúbb plays into the national       longer than most in Iceland. Built on the    Chef Leifur Kolbeinsson practically
into every dish at this new tasting-menu        obsession for ice-cream all day, any        New Nordic philosophy, the menu tra-         introduced Icelanders to fresh pasta
oriented fine dining place, from the            day. Unlike the ultra-aerated, maxi-        verses the islands culinary traditions,      at his iconic restaurant La Primave-
lightly cured trout in green strawberry         mised-for-profit tub versions available     changing seasonally. Offered as five         ra. Now running the kitchen at the
juice to the langoustine cooked to a            in supermarkets, these creamy churned       or seven-course menus, every meal is         Marshall House eatery, he stays true
velvety singular bite with nothing more         scoops are dense and full of flavour. We    introduced with a series of ‘snacks’ or      to the Italian spirit of simplicity. The
than lardo and lavender. Elegant, con-          especially like the dark chocolate, and     assorted amuse-bouche. The progres-          menu focuses on fresh ingredients
fident and refined, they let one or two in-     the roasted white chocolate. Who even       sion is a tight narration of seasons,        cooked beautifully; whole cooked
gredients shine in each dish. Nostra also       knew chocolate could be roasted? The        flavours, ingredients and traditions.        plaice with burnt lemons, capers and
houses Artson, an artisanal cocktail bar        seasonal mango ice-cream and other          A cunning ability to tap into the food       anchovies jostle for attention alongside
mixing up delicious concoctions—we’re           fruity sorbets are worth making the trip    memories of its diners is what makes a       a n’djua spiced tagliatelle with plump
particularly partial to the Cherry Manhat-      to Laugardal, just for the excuse to have   meal at Dill that much more memorable        langoustine.
tan. Nostra is a breath of fresh air.           some ice cream afterwards.                  and inspiring. We recommend going all
                                                                                            in for the wine pairings.

Runners Up                                      Runners Up                                  Runners Up                                   Runners Up

Hlemmur Mathöll                                 Valdís                                      Apotek                                       Kolabrautin
Laugavegur 107                                  Grandagarður 21                             Austurstræti 16                              Harpa
The most anticipated new spot in                The long lines here deter no one. The       Apotek’s tasting menu takes quality Ice-     For a decadent dinner, in possibly
recent years, it's Iceland’s first food hall,   flavours are fun, with a nod to local       landic ingredients and serves them with      the prettiest building in town, Harpa,
housed in a renovated bus station. De-          tastes, like the lakkrís, aka liquorice,    refreshing and interesting twists from       Kolabrautin is perfect for pre-show
spite squeaks of gentrification, the food       or the not-so-subtle jokes on current       the kitchen. The service is excellent, the   nibbles or a dinner date. The views are
hall is a popular spot for both locals          affairs—who can forget the memora-          plating is aesthetically pleasing, and the   beyond spectacular, both inside the
and tourists, with choices from Mexican         ble “icehot1” flavour? The takeaway         whole experience is reliably high quality.   restaurant, and looking out towards the
food to Vietnamese, Danish smorrebröð,          ice-boxes are particularly great if you     A carefree meal at Apotek is the perfect     harbour. “The lobster pizza is the thing
or the Icelandic gastropub Skál.                are hosting a party at home.                medicine for a tiring week.                  to order here,” sighed one panellist.

Marshall House Bar + Restaurant                 Ísleifur Heppni                             Nostra                                       Coocoo's Nest
Grandagarður 20                                 Hlemmur Mathöll, Laugavegur 107             Laugavegur 59                                Grandagarður 23
A bright, airy space located under three        Newcomer: Liquid nitrogen ice-cream         Newcomer: Bursting onto the fine-din-        This cosy and popular eatery on Grandi
floors of excellent cutting-edge con-           is still seeing a popularity surge. Hard    ing scene, upstart fine-dining eatery        might not be a full-time Italian restur-
temporary art galleries, the Marshall           not to understand when the rather the-      Nostra has tasting menu options of           ant—on different nights of the week
House Bar + Restaurant outdoes the              atrical process yields creamy, intensely    four, six and eight courses, consisting      you'll find them serving tacos, pizza,
traditional museum café tenfold. With           flavoured ice-cream with none of the        of deceptively simple plates with bold       pasta, and other dishes of the day—but
excellent spins on Italian food and a           icy grittiness of freezer burns. Freshly    flavours in a daring display of the simple   they capture the spirit of the Italian
great cocktail and wine list, make a            made warm waffles are a great vehicle       and complex. For an adventurous meal         style better than most with their happy
point of heading out to Grandi to try it.       for all that sugar and cream.               in a beautiful setting, Nostra is perfect.   hour aperativos. Salut!

Previous Winners                                Previous Winners                            Previous Winners                             Previous Winners
2017: Hlemmur Mathöll / Mat Bar                 2013-14: Valdís                             2015-17: Tapas barinn                        None: new category!
                                                2012: YoYo                                  2013-14: KEX
                                                2010-11: Ísbúðin Ísland
20
Best of Reykjavík 2018
The Reykjavík Grapevine

                             Some people report their pizza arriving at Flatey in under two minutes

                             “It became an obsession; the idea that                                      is the Neapolitan pizza. Such is its
                                                                                                         popularity that they were recently
                                                                                                                                                Naples flash cooking each one in
                                                                                                                                                under a minute. The Diavola is a
                           pizza could be more than just basic food.”                                    included in the UNESCO listing of      true-to-its-name spicy number,
                                                                                                         ‘intangible cultural heritage.’        the heat tempered by the pickling
                                                          DINING                                             Essentially a 10” pie, the Ne-     and a wonderful touch of honey.
                                                                                                         apolitan pizza is hand stretched,      The Tartufo is a pizza bianca, ele-

                                   Pizza
                                                                                                         with simple San Marzano toma-          vated by truffle oil and handmade
                                                                                                         to sauce, mozzarella, fresh basil      Italian cheese. For vegans, there’s
                                                                                                         and olive oil, served unsliced. The    also a delicious Marinara.
                                                                                                         most popular, and also the sim-

                                 Perfection
                                                                                                         plest is the Margherita, which                   Local tide
                                                                                                         marries simple ingredients by fla-     With most Icelanders preferring
                                                                                                         vour and fire.                         NY-style pizza, I’m curious how
                                                                                                                                                the response has been to this au-
                                                                                                                      Flatey                    thentic Italian fare. “I was expect-
                              Iceland’s first Napoli-style pizzeria delivers                             “We decided to do this a year ago,”    ing that a lot of people wouldn't
                                                                                                         says Haukur. I have a hard time        like it,” says Haukur. “We knew it
                                     Words: Shruthi Basappa Photos: Art Bicnick                          believing him as I slice into the      would be a slow start with people
                                                                                                         Margherita. It’s simplicity itself,    discovering it. It isn’t a crunchy
                          Pizzas and burgers get Icelanders’     ria by the Margherita, and how
                          hearts racing like nothing else.       to close your eyes, feel the taste
                          When Domino’s first opened its         of the tomatoes, the dough, and
                          doors in Reykjavík in the fall of      the cheese. After that, it became
                          1993, the lines were never-ending,     an obsession; the idea that piz-
                          but for a country so obsessed with     za could be more than just basic
                          pizza, a regional-style pizzeria       food.”
                          touting the virtues of the humble
                          hand-made pie has been glaringly                Napoli style
                          absent.                                Flatey is a smart, modern pizze-
                              Now, four young entrepre-          ria. It exudes a trendy, moody vibe
                          neurs—Sindri Snær Jensson, Jón         in a grey-black-green palette. The
                          Davíð Davíðsson, Brynjar Guð-          polished copper pizza oven serves
                          jónsson and Haukur Mar Gests-          as a bright focus of the open
                          son—are looking to put that            kitchen, and there are snippets
                          right. They took their love of piz-    from the history of the Margheri-
                          za seriously enough to turn one        ta everywhere. It’s the perfect spot
                          corner of Grandi into Reykjavík’s      for anything from a first date to a     and the quality of the ingredients     pizza—it’s simpler.’’
                          Little Italy.                          casual family outing.                   are obvious. “We travelled, we             But the place has been packed
                              “It all started in New York,”          Unlike take-out pizzas from         tried different Neapolitan pizze-      to the gills since its opening. Flat-
                          says Haukur. “I went on a pizza        large chains, pizzas vary by re-        rias, ate nothing but pizzas,” he      ey has managed to, in a very short
                          tour in New York City in 2009.         gion, from the beloved thin crust       continues. “And then we went to        window, turn the pizza tide. The
                          Back then I didn't know anything       and pepperoni New York slice, to        Naples.”                               pricing is intentionally honest,
                          about pizza, other than that I liked   Roman pizza al taglio, fried piz-           All of Flatey’s pizzas bear that   the passion is palpable, and the piz-
                          it. The tour started at Lombardi’s.    za (pizza fritte), and Sicilian pies.   delectable leopard skin blister-       zas? Possibly the best in town. And
                          We were told you judge a pizze-        But probably the most celebrated        ing, with the electric oven from       we don’t say that lightly.
21
                        The Reykjavík Grapevine
                          Best of Reykjavík 2018
frakkastigur 16
     OPENING HOURS
       EARLY - 18:00

   Fakafen 11
      OPENING HOURS
        EARLY - 18:00

hlemmur matholl
     OPENING HOURS
       EARLY - 18:00

   www.braudogco.is
22
Best of Reykjavík 2018
The Reykjavík Grapevine

                                          “When the storm breaks,                                                  Pallett                          Ramen Momo
                                                                                                        Strandgata 75, Hafnarfjörður                  Tryggvagata 16
                                          you won’t want to leave.”                                    If you’re craving some stew, pas-     There’s nothing better than
                                                                                                       ties or sausage rolls in a cosy,      a touch of chilli to spice up a
                                                      DINING GUIDE                                     homely environment, Pallett in        grey day and what better way
                                                                                                       Hafnarfjörður is the place to go.     to go than this little ramen bar?

                          Come At Me,
                                                                                                       The English cook makes buttery,       Squeeze into one of the bar seats,
                                                                                                       melt-in-the-mouth pastries and        order a soup, and pick your home-
                                                                                                       divine casseroles, cooked over-       made toppings: pork for intense
                                                                                                       night for a rich flavour. There’s     flavour, kimchi if you’re feeling

                           Snowstorm
                                                                                                       gourmet coffee, sweet treats,         adventurous, or scorching hot
                                                                                                       interesting books, with desks to      veggie dumplings if soup isn’t
                                                                                                       work on, nooks to hide in, and        enough. Enjoy with some ex-
                                                                                                       window seats with a view over         tra chilli sauce and get warmed
                                                                                                       Hafnarfjörður harbour. When the       through in a heartbeat. AD
                                 Comforting places for the cold season                                 storm breaks, you won’t want to
                                                                                                       leave. JR                             Snaps Downstairs Bar
                              Words: John Rogers & Alice Demurtas Photo: Art Bicnick                                                                     Þórsgata 1
                                                                                                             Hverfisgata 12                  Snaps Bistro is known for its
                          As nice as it is to hibernate                       Súpa                                Hverfisgata 12             French-inspired menu and the
                          throughout the dark, stormy                   Bergstaðastræti 4              Hverfisgata 12 has become, for        jungle of plants decorating their
                          months, we all still need to get       An offshoot of Súpabarinn on          many, a Reykjavík “happy place.”      glass solarium. The fresh looking
                          out a bit. But where in Reykjavík      Borgartún, this conveniently lo-      They’ve expanded their cre-           bistro, however, hides a fiery gem
                          has the right vibe for the delicate,   cated downtown soup café is a         atively-topped pizza menu to in-      in its basement. Leave the cold be-
                          insomniac, seasonally affected         welcome arrival. There are four       clude all kinds of decadent com-      hind, circumnavigate the counter
                          masses to pass some time?              standard soups to choose from,        fort-food sides that can be a meal    and walk down the narrow flight
                              Whether it's a hidden base-        including a spicy, peanutty ‘Ma-      in themselves. You can perch at       of stairs: you’ll be welcomed by
                          ment bar with sharing platters,        laysian’, with two alternating        the bar or take a seat in the vari-   suffused red lights that give the
                          or a comfort-food café where you       soups of the day. All of them come    ous cosy, dimly-lit dining rooms      space a secretive 1920s speakeasy
                          could pass a whole day, here are       steaming hot, served in generous      and treat yourself to some fin-       you-shouldn’t-be-here kind of
                          a few places with the right com-       portions. You can get your soup       ger food staples like crispy fried    vibe. Order cocktails and sharing
                          bination of warm, welcoming at-        with a sandwich on the side if        chicken with satay sauce and de-      plates at the bar, and forget the
                          mosphere and comforting fare to        you’re extra-peckish, and if you’re   licious fries drowned in melted       rest of the world exists. AD
                          see you through.                       not done hiding from the weath-       cheese. All this, and killer cock-
                                                                 er afterwards, Kaffibarinn is ten     tails too. Winter blues, begone. JR
                                                                 steps away. JR

                                                                                                                                                                                   O
FISH & MORE

                                                                                                                    23
                                                                                                                    The Reykjavík Grapevine
                                                                                                                      Best of Reykjavík 2018
                                  SALKA VALKA
                                     Steamed Fresh Fish, Traditional Icelandic Fish ‘Stew’,
                                     Fish & Vegan Soups, Smoked Salmon & Vegan Toppings
                                         on Sourdough Bread, Beer, Wine, Coffee & more

                                                                            We are her e!

                                                                                              by Trip Advi sor
                                                              Cert ifica te of Exce llen ce
                                                                                  ava lka _fi shn mor e
                                                     ww w.in sta gra m.co m/s alk
                                                                                        val ka2 3
                                                          ww w.fa ceb ook .com lka
                                                                                /sa

                                      SkólavörDustígur 23 • 101 reykjavík

                             LOCAL
                          FOOD AND BEER
                          Tasty and fun food made with fresh and local Icelandic ingredients.
                             We offer a unique selection of Icelandic beer– 20 bottled,
                            10 on draft, and artisan cocktails to enjoy alongside the food.
    ICELANDIC GASTROPUB
                                   Drop by for lunch, late lunch, dinner or drinks
                                         in a casual and fun atmosphere.

Open 11:30–23:30                                                        Hafnarstræti 1–3 / Tel. 555 2900 / saetasvinid.is
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