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FALL 2020
IWFS:
BURGUNDY
DINE WITH THOMAS
JEFFERSON IN PARIS
REMEMBERING J.A. WILLIAM
(BILL) WHITEACRE
FRENCH DINING IN NEW YORK,
THE WAY THINGS WERE
THEY GROW GRAPES
IN THAT COUNTRY?1?
WINE THEMES OF OMAR
THE INTERNATIONAL
KHAYYAM’S RUBAIYAT WINE & FOOD SOCIETY
THE AMERICAS QUARTERLY
ISSUE 134 FALL 2020
WWW.IWFS.ORG
CHAIRMAN’S LETTER
By Mike Donohoe, Chairman, IWFS Americas Inc.
Dear Fellow Members and Friends, I hope that you have visited the website whelms, ensuring the survival of the spe-
First and foremost, I hope this edition and enjoyed the video presentations by cies. This example of beautiful adaptation
of Wine, Food & Friends finds you safe and Jane Anson and Beverly Blanning, whom gives me hope.
well. I write to tell you that my three-year we commissioned to produce special lec- As Winston Churchill said: “Victory
term as your chairman is coming to an end, tures on the topics of Bordeaux’s terroir, may be distant, it will certainly be costly,
so this will be my last chairman’s letter to and Biodynamic wines, respectively. We but it is no longer in doubt.” That must be
you the Americas members. Though it is had them created especially for you. our mindset.
occurring during what for many of us is We have also established a forum on During those moments when I feel over-
the most difficult, and still to be complet- iwfs.org for anyone who wants to share whelmed by our current set of challenges,
ed chapter of our lives; as they say, “It is their experiences on how the pandem- and feel we are hurtling toward dystopia,
what it is.” ic has impacted them or their family I remind myself that we will prevail, be-
Normally, these letters are sprinkled and friends. cause at our core, we all value the Golden
with a mix of admiration of clever events Americas festivals and Great Weekends Rule, and we all know that actions speak
created by our branches, reviews of ex- have necessarily been rescheduled to next louder than words. We have been asked to
traordinary festivals and cruises pro- year. We thought that moving these events be our better selves, and that is a call to
grammed by the Americas, recognition of out one full year would be more than ad- action not to be ignored.
the hard work of our board of directors, equate. We remain hopeful with fingers One thing I’ve learned from the trials of
and remembrance of leaders who have crossed that we will resume these spe- this past year is that we know not what to-
passed away. The pandemic has thrown cial gatherings in 2021. I am optimistic morrow will bring, so we must make every
a monkey wrench into normality, laying that there will be an explosion of pent-up day count, as best we can.
waste to the communal enjoyment of your demand when the gates finally open. I look forward to the many days ahead
brilliant events, leaving us with bushels Sadly, I must report the passing of Bill of wining and dining with as many or few
of good intentions but without the antici- Whiteacre, who admirably served the To- of us as the situation allows, sharing and
pated fruits of those labors. ronto branch, your Americas board of di- nurturing the camaraderie that we have
In its place, branches are doing their rectors, as well as our International Coun- enjoyed for decades. A better world of
best to adapt. Our branches have em- cil. You will find two lovely remembrances rich new experiences awaits us. We will
ployed a variety of different formats, deliv- in this edition of Wine, Food & Friends; be hugging; we will be air-kissing; we
ered through visual media: take-out from containing anecdotes that will make you will be high-fiving; the social dynamic
favorite restaurants featuring wine and smile and provide you a glimpse of this will have been renewed. Gone will be the
food pairings; tutored wine tastings, even remarkable man. He was a pistol; quite a resigned acceptance of “it is what it is,”
mask contests. All designed to bring us memorable character. supplanted by the purposeful satisfaction
together virtually. In our quarterly vehicle It seems that we were unprepared for of “it is what it should be.” Let us follow
of visual media, this edition of Wine, Food the consequences of a Covid-19 world. the example of Michelin-Star Chef Alain
& Friends contains fewer Branch Event Re- As it has lingered, the gauntlet we must Ducasse, who always advises us to “dream
ports, but compensates with a wealth of negotiate has become more complicated, in the fast lane.”
outstanding educational material; an ad- compounded by issues of racial injustice,
aptation I hope you enjoy. public safety, climate change’s extremes, All the Best,
As with the branches, our Americas and the dark cloud of housing and finan-
board of directors has continued its cial insecurity. For many of us it feels ex-
planning and plotting the way forward, istential. But we will adapt and survive
having made the switch to virtual meet- and enter a new normal...hopefully soon. Mike Donohoe
ings. I have greatly enjoyed the planning From nature, think of the lodgepole pine Chairman, IWFS Americas, Inc.
and presiding over these past three years. tree, possessing serotinous cones that
While I will miss holding the gavel, I look in the presence of fire will release its
forward to continuing to work with these seeds to the ground before the fire over-
great friends. My successor will begin a
journey that for me has been a great honor.
2 IWFS Wine , Food & F r iend s
PUBLISHER/EDITOR WEBSITE SUPPORT
Kathy Kallaus MEMBERSHIP
kathykall@comcast.net RECORDS
BR ANCH REPORTS
13839 Saxon Lake Drive
Joe Temple—Web Tech
Jacksonville, FL 32225
help.americas@iwfs.org
Tel (904) 518-5540
Tel (855) 763-8640
Cell (904) 403-8056
MEMBERSHIP
EDITORIAL BOARD DUES &
13
Dave Felton, A D M I N I STR ATI O N
IWFS Honorary President Rose Clemson
Mark Lazar
Dale Springer
admin.americas@iwfs.org
Tel (908) 719-1237
IWFS: BURGUNDY
Carl Tinkelman
TH E I NTE R N ATI O N A L
WI N E & FOO D
IWFS AMERICAS, INC.
SOCI E T Y
Michael Donohoe Andrea Warren 2 Chairman’s Letter
Chairman International Secretariat Mike Donohoe
mwdonohoe@me.com sec@iwfs.org
15 Greenway Plaza 4 St. James’s Square
PH-30C London, SW1Y 4JU,
4 News from the
Houston, TX 77046-1500 Office of the
England
Tel (713) 942-7115 Tel +44 (0) 20 7827 5732
International 6
Or Fax +44 (0) 20 7827 5733 Secretariat
8 Calle Cimarron Dine with Thomas
www.IWFS.org Andrea Warren
Sante Fe, NM 87506 Jefferson in Paris
(505) 820-0139 P R I NTE R
Todd Lemke 5 Remembering
VI C E C H AI R M A N
todd@omahapublications.com
J.A. William (Bill)
Stephen Hipple Omaha Magazine Whiteacre
5921 S. 118th Cir.,
TR E A S U R E R
Omaha, NE 68137
Dwight Catherwood
Tel (402) 884-2000 20 Wine Themes of
Omar Khayyam’s 10
S E C R E TA RY
GRAPHIC DESIGNER
Rubaiyat
Antonio Escudero-Viera French Dining in New York,
Madison Besch The Way Things Were
DIRECTORS Note: The opinions expressed 25 What’s Cooking?
Christopher Ankner in this Newsletter, except as Club Events Across
specifically stated to the contrary, the Americas
John Danza are solely the opinion of the
José R. “Joe” Garrigó author and do not necessarily
Steven Greenwald represent the views of the Board
of Directors of the Americas,
Andrew Jones The International Wine & Food
Kathy Kallaus Society, Ltd., the publisher or any
Mark Lazar officer, director, member or
agent therof.
23
Peter Miao
Martha S. Russel Copyright © 2020, IWFS Americas Inc. They Grow Grapes in
Jim Storfer All Rights Reserved. that Country?!?
Dr. Carl Tinkelman
On the Cover: “Red Beauties”
By Karen Robert, Central Massachusetts Branch
N E WS F RO M TH E O F F I C E
OF THE INTERNATIONAL SECRETARIAT, LONDON
Andrea Warren, IWFS Executive Administrator
Dear Members,
I do hope this finds you well. We are
still charting an unknown course but I
am pleased to learn that most branches
in the Americas are continuing to ar-
range virtual events, creatively and with
the assistance of online technology. I am
sure you are all looking forward to being
able to attend face-to-face events in the
near future.
As I type, London is still very quiet,
although busier than when I came here
in July. The In & Out Club, home to the
IWFS International Secretariat office, re-
opened its doors on July 6th with essential
Covid-19 safety arrangements in place. I
ventured into the Club soon afterwards,
arriving at Piccadilly Circus underground
station (which is usually one of the busiest
in London) only to find it absolutely desert-
ed. As I looked around, tapping my ticket Jane Anson
on the barrier to exit, I saw that I was the
only passenger leaving the station. Today,
some two months later, I am pleased to leisure. They can be found on the Ameri- thanks must go to our Wines Committee,
say that life is showing signs of a return cas website pages under ‘Publications and Chaired by Ron Barker (EAZ member) and
to normality. Videos/Presentations - Audio & Video’. our expert Consultants around the globe.
As before, work still continues at the The annual Vintage Card and App are Members will receive their copy of the
International Secretariat. Hopefully, you also being updated and will be available new Vintage Card (2021), free of charge,
will have had the opportunity to watch in the Fall. This year, the pandemic has when they renew their 2021 Society mem-
the video presentations recently com- presented its own challenges in sourcing bership. Please note that copies are avail-
missioned from two highly respected all the information from world’s wine able to purchase via the website under
wine professionals who provide regions about the quality of the ‘Purchase Regalia.’ They are ideal to pass
an informed insight into two latest vintages and the drink- on as a gift to friends, family or colleagues.
specific wine topics. The ability of previous vintages. However, for those of you who prefer to
2020 André Simon lecture As the annual round of vin- view this vintage information electroni-
by Jane Anson discusses tage tastings and winery cally, this will be available to download
the topic ‘Is there Terroir visits were not possible, via App loaded on the website via ‘Pub-
in Bordeaux?’ (52 minutes). many of our consultants lication and Videos/Vintage App & Card’.
Beverley Blanning MW (36 had to be more resourceful I trust your life in lockdown has given
minutes) gives us an update Be and seek extra advice from you opportunities to enjoy wines from
on her 2010 monograph which ve r g the producers themselves. your cellar that may not have otherwise
ly B l a n n i n
is about the controversial topic of We are pleased to say that we re- been opened for sometime soon.
‘Biodynamics.’ I would like to point out ceived reports from all regions with the
that while they are educational, they are help from our Wines Committee members Keep well,
also presented in an approachable way so who reached out to their invaluable con-
you can sit down and enjoy them at your tacts when necessary. Once again, huge Andrea Warren
International Secretariat, London
4 IWFS Wine , Food & F r iend s
REMEMBERING J.A. WILLIAM
(BILL) WHITEACRE
UE MM CD QC BA LLB
T he Bard who penned the words “the evil
that men do, lives after them, the good is
oft interred with their bones,” was not pres-
would take such a risk in a country not
particularly known for rigorous standards
or inspection!
tor and family man—it is to the Society that
we owe our interaction and friendship to ap-
preciate Bill Whiteacre and to recall some of
ent at Bill Whiteacre’s 90th birthday party Hardly had we taken the cowards option the lighter moments with pleasure.
at the Toronto Arts and Letters Club. The and settled on a bench on the beach, with a —John Moses & Linda Stevens
room was filled with reflections of Bill him- cool drink in hand, we fixed our gaze sky-
self—his children, grandchildren, nieces and ward, in shock to see the unmistakeable sil-
nephews who had returned from far flung
places representing the Arts, Medicine, and
Commerce, successful in their many fields
houettes of Bill and Lorna, wine glasses held
out aloft like cavalry sabres, as they had a
day of fun that ‘lesser mortals’ recoiled from
I t is always sad to hear of the passing of
one of our hard-working members going
back to the North American Board of Gover-
of endeavour. None of which would have in timidity. nors (NABG) and Board of Governors of the
been possible had a sniper’s bullet tracked Bill’s wife Lorna has reminded us, that on Americas (BGA). I’m referring to William
just a hair left or right, but instead broke the cruise, we had drinks in the upper deck (Bill) Whiteacre, from our Toronto Branch,
both of Bill’s arms as he fought his way with lounge before dinner. Bill was unhappy with who left us recently at 96 years of age and
the Canadian Highlander Brigade—through the blinis served with the caviar and made after living a full and interesting life.
WW2, including in the horrific combat zone an arrangement to go to the kitchen the next Bill was indeed a special person and, in
later celebrated in the film “A Bridge Too Far.” morning to show the chef how to make them particular, very special to me. Somehow we
Thanks to people like Bill, it was our properly! She used to wonder how he carried clicked the day I met him in 1988 when
priviledge to know him under more pleas- it off without incident! I was invited to join the NABG. We com-
ant circumstances in the peacetime that he John, for several years, enjoyed Bill’s municated in a special way and he was
and so many like Bill conferred on the ‘baby invitation to the single malt nosing that always supportive and giving me sound
boomer ‘ generation like us. The highlights Bill hosted and led at the Toronto Arts and advice based on his experience in our So-
that come to mind were through the IWFS. Letters Club. This was the preamble to the ciety. This was especially appreciated when
Linda has known Bill since she joined the annual Robbie Burns supper that followed, I was elected BGA Chair at our meeting
IWFS Toronto Branch in the mid-1970s, and where Bill and Lorna, resplendent in their in Edmonton.
John will always remember meeting Bill at highland kilts with sporrans, shirts with No comment or motion in our Board meet-
a Toronto IWFS function in the early 1980s lacy finery and tartan bonnets, would, with- ings went unheard by him, even when he
when, at table—with ‘Veal Oscar’ being the out benefit of notes, deliver the whole of the seemed to be unattentive. A quick response
featured menu item—he withdrew, with poetry and songs from the toast to the Lass- was given when he thought it was needed,
a flourish, a monogrammed velvet case ies and The Twa’ Lands. and always with sound arguments like the
from his interior jacket pocket and queried Bill gave a chuckle when asked as to his good attorney he was. Always sharp and
his table mates, “What! None of you have highland lineage. He would explain that his snappy. Never boring.
brought your sauce spoons?!” At the time, Whiteacre heritage was a hundred percent Bill stayed in our home years ago during
John, as a young inductee to the Society, Sassinack, which was as thoroughly English one of our BGA meetings in Miami. He was
recalls having felt much the way the Clam- as he could be. invited back and, if not staying with us,
petts might have felt upon first moving to A celebration at the family home of Dr. Vicki and I usually invited him for dinner—
Beverley Hills! William and Diana Santo—longtime mem- which he much enjoyed. I still remember
John soon learned that no offence need bers of the Toronto IWFS—saw us explain- his last trip to Miami with Lorna Kelly, his
to have been interpreted from Bill’s remark. ing to Bill the film “Sideways,” featuring the wife, and how much we all enjoyed talking
As one got to know him, one came to real- trials of an actor portrayed by the celebrated about old times.
ize just what encyclopedic capacity Bill had Paul Giamatti, whose character voiciferously I offer my prayer for Bill’s eternal rest. I
with all, including esoteric, aspects of food deplored the Merlot grape in any wine and am sure he is already in Heaven organiz-
and wine and not to interpret his sincere reserved particular disdain for anyone who ing wine and food events, wearing his Scot-
desire to share his knowledge with others might order such a bottle. At the same time, tish kilts with angels and, as he did in our
as in any way meant to intimidate. the wine of his dreams was the 1961 Cheval BGA meetings, correcting them whenever
Bill was fearless. On the occasion of the Blanc. Bill without pausing, wrinkled his they said anything he did not agree with.
first IWFS Caribbean cruise, we found our- nose and opined: “Well that is very strange,” That was the Bill Whiteacre that I knew
selves in Haiti on a private island with a he deadpanned, “because everybody knows and admired.
volcanic mountain and a zipline spanning that Cheval Blanc is at least 20% Merlot!” —José R. “Joe” Garrigó
a lagoon. We eyeballed each other, asking So, while our IWFS friend had many di-
as to where was the last place on earth one mensions worthy of note—a soldier, a litiga-
Fall 2020 5
DINE WITH
THOMAS
JEFFERSON
IN PARIS BY JAMES GABLER
L
et’s take a time machine back to ferson asks if you have dinner plans.
18th century Paris for a very spe- When you tell him that you don’t, he
cial dinner. It’s a beautiful spring says, “I’m having friends for dinner at
morning in 1788, and you are strolling 3:30 this afternoon. I would be pleased
on the left bank of the Seine casually to have you join us.” You are thrilled
inspecting art and books displayed and accept his invitation.
along the river’s embankment walls. Jefferson’s residence, the Hôtel de
You stop to examine a book, and stand- Langeac, is located in a new and fash-
ing in front of you is a tall, trim man ionable area of Paris, a short carriage
with copper red hair. He turns around ride from the Hotel d’Orleans, which
and, to your surprise, it is America’s is opposite the Palais Royal where
Minister to France, Thomas Jeffer- you are staying. When your carriage
son. You introduce yourself, Jefferson arrives at the intersection of Champs
seems delighted to meet you, and he in- Élysées and Rue de Berri, it stops
quires about your stay in Paris. After a beside Jefferson’s mansion in front of
pleasant exchange of information, Jef- a large iron gate that designates the
Avenue des Champs-Élysées vue de l'Arc de Triomphe
by Félix Benoist (1850)
Portrait of Thomas Jefferson
(1791) by Charles Willson Peale
6 IWFS Wine , Food & F r iend s
A plaque near the Hôtel de Langeac,
(opposite Ladurée), erected in 1919 which
translates to: “In this place resided Thomas
Jefferson, Minister of the United States to
France 1785–1789, President of the United
States 1801–1809, Author of the American
Declaration of Independence, Founder of the
University of Virginia.”
Source: Erwmat / CC BY-SA
To Jefferson, he says, “Yes, and though your
general advice to me is always sound, I
sometimes fail to follow it.”
With feigned horror, Jefferson remarks,
“My dear Marquis, which of my bon mots
have you failed to follow?”
“Your suggestion that I follow your exam-
ple and travel incognito through France
to learn the living conditions of the peas-
ants by ferreting them out of their hovels,
looking into their pots, eating their bread,
lolling on their beds to find out if they are
soft, or throwing a morsel of meat into their
kettle of vegetables.”
Still feigning shock, Jefferson exclaims,
“When, my dear Marquis, are you going to
follow that good advice?”
Looking a little embarrassed, Lafay-
ette replies, “Soon.” (There is no evidence
that Lafayette ever took up Jefferson’s
encouragement to learn more about his
fellow Frenchmen by traveling the coun-
try incognito.)
Hearing the repartee between the host
and Lafayette, the other guests gather
around, eager to meet you. Jean Antoine
western boundary of Paris. Directly across tailcoat fashioned from red silk damask. Houdon, 47, the famous French sculptor,
from Jefferson’s mansion is the Grille de He pours you a glass of wine, and says, “A tells you about his recent trip to America
Chaillot, one of about 50 tollhouse gates glass of champagne will help you relax and his visit to Mount Vernon as the guest
that circle Paris for the purpose of levy- before I introduce you to my guests.” of General and Mrs. Washington. “My stay
ing taxes on all goods coming into the You take a sip. “Minister Jefferson, you with the general and his wife got off to a
city. These tollhouse gates are franchises said this wine is champagne. It’s a good bumpy start. We arrived at Mount Vernon
of the king and tremendous sources of dry wine, but it doesn’t sparkle like cham- at 11 o’clock at night. The general had re-
royal revenue. pagne.” “Ah,” he says, “it’s true that foreign tired, and his staff got him out of bed to
The entrance gate to Jefferson’s estate is demand favors sparkling champagne, but greet me. The general was good-natured
on Rue de Berri. As your carriage enters sparkling champagne is not popular in about the situation.”
and crosses the courtyard, the servants’ France. French wine connoisseurs prefer “How long were you at Mount Vernon?”
quarters and stables are on the left, and non-sparkling champagne, and I include “Two weeks. I stayed in the main house
the mansion and garden are to the right. myself holding that preference.” and dined with them nightly. My three as-
Adrian Petit, Jefferson’s trusted maître Jefferson takes you by the arm and sistances had adequate quarters in anoth-
d’hôtel, welcomes you and takes you into says, “Come, let me introduce you.” To a er building.“
a circular foyer that connects with the tall, young man dressed resplendently in “Did you accomplish everything you set
dining room, a petit salon and a large oval military garb, Jefferson says, “The Mar- out to do?”
salon. Petit shows you into the large salon, quis de Lafayette and I share memories of “Yes, we worked on a clay bust and ap-
where a group of men are standing by floor- the Revolution, interests in French politics, plied plaster to the general’s face to make
to-ceiling glass doors that provide a view of social structure, cuisine and wine.” Lafay- a life mask, and I made the measurements
Jefferson’s garden. Jefferson, then 45 years ette, only 31 years of age, greets you with and other preparations for a life-size statue.”
old, greets you dressed in a front cutaway a strong handshake and a welcoming word.
Fall 2020 7
had witnessed. Trum- John Ledyard, 36, has just started to tell
bull’s Declaration of you about sailing as a marine with Captain
Independence paint- Cook on the third voyage in search of the
ing was purchased by Northwest Passage, when Petit enters and
the United States Con- announces that dinner is served.
gress, along with his Jefferson leads the way into the dining
Surrender of General room, a rectangular room with three win-
Burgoyne, Surrender dows hung with blue silk damask draper-
of Lord Cornwallis, ies that look out onto the Champs Élysées.
and General George On the far wall is a fireplace topped by a
Washington Resign- marble mantel decorated with porcelain
ing His Commission, Greek mythology figurines. On each side
all related to the Rev- of the fireplace are marble-topped tables,
olution. All now hang one supported by a tripod with snake feet,
in the rotunda of the and the other by two pairs of snake feet.
United States Capitol. The centerpiece of the room is a 15-foot
Jefferson guides you dining table lined with 20 chairs covered
toward a handsome in blue silk. The table is set with a white ta-
man standing by him- blecloth, silverware, Limoges dinnerware,
self and looking out crystal wine glasses, and three lighted
at the garden. He is pairs of silver candelabras placed on flat
Edward Bancroft, 44, plaques of glass.
and you learn from There is no assigned order to the seating,
Jefferson that “I sort but Jefferson nudges you to a chair on his
of inherited Edward right and next to John Ledyard. Waiters
John Trumbull from Benjamin Frank- enter with crystal decanters of white and
Self-Portrait (1802) lin. Edward is an ex red wine and place them on a side table
American who resides next to the host.
in London when not “What are the wines?” you ask.
< “Have you begun casting the statue?” in Paris. He is a physician, scientist and “The white wine is from the village
“No, but I am ready to start work on it writer who served as Dr. Franklin’s person- Meursault in Burgundy. It is called Goutte
as soon as I am told what his dress will al secretary for eight years during the war.” d’Or (drop of gold). My favorite dry white
be, classical or contemporary.” (Houdon Bancroft smiles and greets you profusely, wine is Montrachet, but I have drunk the
produced numerable well-known sculpted all the while saying to himself, What nei- last of it from my cellar. Goutte d’Or is the
heads of Washington, as well as a stand- ther Jefferson nor Franklin will ever know best wine of Meursault and my second
ing statue of the soon-to-be first American is that during the time I worked with the favorite dry white wine. The red wine is
president during the next decade. He also Americans, I was a British spy. (Bancroft’s from Bordeaux—1784 Château Haut-Brion.”
sculpted heads of both Franklin and Jeffer- activity as a double agent was not revealed Jefferson takes a sip, “I have an affinity for
son during this period.) until 1891, when British diplomatic papers Haut-Brion.”
John Trumbull, 32, is introduced as an were released to the public.) “Why is that?”
artist of “incredible talent whom I met on “This old codger,” Jefferson says, point- “I admire and consider John Locke as one
a visit to London and became interested ing to the oldest looking man in the room, of the three greatest men the world has
when I learned of his plan to devote himself Philip Mazzei, 57, “showed up on my Monti- ever produced. When he retired, he lived
to painting the great events of the Ameri- cello doorstep one cold, blustery evening in in France for several years and became in-
can Revolution.” Trumbull nods, “Mr. Jef- November 1773 with plans to start Amer- terested in wine. A hundred years before I
ferson invited me to come to Paris to see ica’s first commercial vineyard.” “Yes,” visited Haut-Brion, Locke also visited and
and study the fine arts and make his home Mazzei says, “and you thought it such a walked through its vineyards. So, when I
my home. I have taken him up on that kind great idea that you talked me into plant- drink Haut-Brion, I think of John Locke
invitation, and he has been a gracious host.” ing my vineyards just down the road from and all of his wisdom.” (Locke wrote that
“What do you think of French art?” you ask. Monticello.” Mazzei is in Paris as King all individuals are equal in the sense that
“Yesterday, I visited Versailles and was Stanislaus of Poland’s special agent, and a they are born with certain “inalienable”
overwhelmed by the Royal art collection frequent Jefferson dinner guest. natural rights. The phrase “life, liberty,
and the grandeur of the gardens. The Before you can find out why Mazzei’s and pursuit of happiness,” was an idea
royal art collection at the Louvre is num- vineyard efforts failed, you are greeted by first considered by Locke in his Two Trea-
berless and inestimable.” (Trumbull served William Short, 29, the youngest member of tises on Government.)
during the Revolutionary War as a soldier the group, and Jefferson’s private secretary.
and eventually an aide-de-camp to George You learn that Short is a Virginian, lawyer,
Washington. After the war, he studied graduate of William and Mary College, and
painting in London with Benjamin West the cofounder of Phi Beta Kappa.
and began doing scenes of the fighting he
8 IWFS Wine , Food & F r iend s
The food is served simultaneously and The table falls silent. Houdon shakes his Jefferson stands, “There are three rules
brought to the table on wooden étagères or head as if to clear it, “Are you saying that at my table: no politics, no toasts, and no
dumbwaiters consisting of four-tiered open you plan to walk around the world?” restraints. I’m going to make an exception
shelves on casters. The servants maneuver “Yes,” Jefferson interjects, “that is what and offer a toast to a brave and courageous
the étagères around the room and position he is going to do, and explore our western friend.” Jefferson raises his glass and
them between the guests so that each guest continent.” (Contemporary written evi- says, “John, I wish you a successful and
can serve himself. dence suggests that Jefferson, indeed, en- safe journey. And now, gentlemen, with
As Jefferson takes a slice of French couraged Ledyard to embark on this am- dessert we will drink my favorite sweet
beef steak with asparagus and peas, and bitious walking expedition. But Ledyard wine, Château d’Yquem.”
ladles onto his plate roast chicken with only made it to St. Petersburg on foot. And, “I’ve never had Château d’Yquem,” you
rice, onions and carrots, he talks about although he eventually continued east in say, “but I’m sure it will add to what has
the abundance and variety of meats, game, Russia by stagecoach, he never was able been a memorable experience. Thank you,
fish, vegetables, dairy products, and fruits to reach Russia’s eastern shore or travel in Minister Jefferson.”
available throughout France. From the North America. He died in Egypt at age 37.) (Thomas Jefferson’s dinners were famous
étagère that serves you and Mr. Jefferson, Turning to you, Jefferson says, “Do you for his use of the policy of “pell-mell,” espe-
you select a croquette of roasted veal, fresh like the wines?” cially as applied to a moment charged with
baked salmon, glazed partridge breasts, “The wines are splendid. It is not possi- significance for those conscious of their
baked macaroni with a cheese topping, and ble to find wines like these in the United rank—the procession of dinner guests to
green beans, artichokes and brown sauce. States.” Jefferson nods. “Where did you ac- their appointed places at the table. Defying
The desserts, served separately and after quire your knowledge of wine?” custom of long standing, Jefferson declared,
the main meal, include a plethora of apple “A year ago, I traveled across southern “At public ceremonies to which the govern-
tarts, rice pudding, sponge cakes, maca- France with a side trip over the Alps into ment invites the presence of foreign minis-
roons, oranges, figs, and cheeses. northern Italy, all the while visiting the ters and their families, a convenient seat or
The wine is served with the meal, which vineyards and the Roman antiquities. I station will be provided for them with any
is different from the American tradition of never passed three months more delight- other strangers invited, and the families of
serving wine only after the meal is finished fully. Along the way, I drank the wines the national ministers each taking place as
and the tablecloth re- and met the men they arrive, and without any precedence.”
moved. You mention and women who The deprivation of his precedence in this
this to Jefferson, and “I FOLLOW THE AMERICAN make them. It pell-mell passage to the dinner table was
he says, “There is that TRADITION WHEN AT HOME, became my wine too much for British minister Anthony
difference. I follow learning expe- Merry. Bolstered by his large and equally
the American tradi-
ALTHOUGH I PREFER DRINK- rience, which I offended wife, Merry withdrew from offi-
tion when at home, al- ING WINE WITH THE MEAL have built upon cial Washington society. The ensuing social
though I prefer drink- BECAUSE, WHEN PROPERLY by visiting the tempest came close to clouding the course
ing wine with the PAIRED, FOOD AND WINE vineyards of Ger- of American foreign and domestic policy at
meal because, when COMPLEMENT EACH OTHER, many and Cham- the time, but Jefferson stood firmly behind
properly paired, food AND ALLOW THE FOOD AND pagne this past the principle at the root of pell-mell: “When
and wine complement March and April.” brought together in society all are perfectly
each other, and allow
WINE TO TASTE BETTER.” “During my tour equal, whether foreign or domestic, titled
the food and wine to — THOMAS JEFFERSON of Europe, I too or untitled, in or out of office.” Such was a
taste better.” would like to visit Jeffersonian dinner.)
To Ledyard, Jefferson says, “I assume, the vineyards, but I don’t know how to do it.”
John, you walked here from your place in “I will deliver to your hotel a copy of my
Saint-Germain-en-Laye and have worked travel notes through France, Italy and Ger-
up a considerable appetite” John Trumbull many and provide you with letters of intro-
hears the remark, “Saint-Germain-en- duction,” Jefferson says.
Laye is 12 miles out of Paris. You walked “That would be wonderful, Minister Jeffer-
from there?” son. Thank you.”
“I make those trips often to dine with From across the table, Bancroft says,
our minister or Marquis de Lafayette,” “Where did you find a chef with the skills
Ledyard says. to cook such a varied and delicious meal?”
Jefferson smiles, “John is a prodigious Jefferson smiles proudly, “This meal
walker. At my suggestion he has agreed
to walk from Paris across Russia and then
was prepared by James Hemings, a young
slave-servant I brought to France for the
About the Author
take a vessel to our northern continent particular purpose of his learning the art JAMES GABLER
and make his way on foot from the Pacific of French cookery. I apprenticed James to
Ocean to Virginia.” several caterers to learn French cooking James Gabler is a member of the Baltimore
skills and, as you have experienced, James Branch and has authored several historical
learned well.” books as well as “How To Be A Wine Expert,
A Beginners Guide.”
Fall 2020 9
FrenCH Dining
in New York,
the Way
Things WeRE
BY JEFFREY POSTMAN, M.D., PASADENA BRANCH
F
or our 5th wedding anniversary But I had got it all The Fair was sched-
in the 1970s, Susan and I made wrong. Here’s the fas- uled to close in Octo-
reservations at La Caravelle, one cinating background of ber of 1940. This pre-
of the most prominent restaurants why (and the Kennedys sented a quandary to
in New York City at the time. When you are involved). the restaurant’s staff,
entered the restaurant on west 55th street who were reluctant to
you passed through a bar and then into a The “Restaurant at the return to France, now
narrow room with banquettes along the French Pavilion” at the under the control of
walls and a few tables. It then opened up New York World’s Fair the Nazis. Several, fol-
into a large dining area in back. I believe in 1939 and 1940 was de- lowing the direction
I looked very presentable in a new suit. signed to present the most of Henri Soulé, cap-
Susan, dressed for the evening was, in sophisticated Parisian tain of the restaurant,
my opinion at least, stunningly beautiful. cuisine of the time. Every- devised a plan to open
Therefore, I was surprised when we were thing was French, down another restaurant in
seated at one of the tables in the front to the dishes and table Manhattan. One prob-
room. We were the only diners in that room. service. No hint of bowing lem was that their
We could hear the hum of conversation and to American tastes was visas were about to
the clacking of knives and forks from the to be allowed. It was an expire. So they trav-
back, where I assumed everyone else was amazing success. There were French style elled to Niagara Falls, New York, where
having a wonderful time. Our isolation restaurants in New York at the time, like they crossed the bridge over into Canada.
made me miserable the whole evening. Delmonico’s, but this was of a different and They then turned around, marched back to
Why had we been confined to Siberia? superior order of magnitude. the US border and requested refugee status.
continued on page 12 >
10 IWFS Wine , Food & F r iend sFall 2020 11
< Et voila! This was granted, as the French
quota had not yet been filled.
They opened their restaurant, named
Le Pavillon, on East 55th street in 1941
with Henri Soulé as manager and Pierre
Franey as chef. They maintained the ex-
ceptional standards of the restaurant at
the Fair. It was an immediate success and
remained the premier restaurant in New
York, and perhaps America, for the next
two and a half decades. Monsieur Soulé,
however, acted like a little Napoleon, and
he frequently antagonized his employees.
Numerous chefs and members of the wait-
staff departed over the years to establish
competing restaurants in Manhattan. No-
table among them were La Caravelle, Lafay-
ette, Le Mistral, Le Veau d’Or and, another
favorite, La Potinière. The long-lasting La
Source: Culinary Institute of America
Grenouille, was a project of M. Soulé him-
self, to bring fine French food to the poor in 2020 to go through a recent menu from Strangely, French restaurants in New
peasants of America. Jean-Georges, Daniel or Le Cirque and York became stranded in time. They pre-
find any dish that you would consider to sented a predictable menu. Appetizers
Lutèce, founded in 1961, was not related be typical of French food. These are very included céleri remoulade, escargots de
to Le Pavillon although, in critical opinion, good restaurants, but it would be better to Bourgogne, seafood crêpes and pâté de
it succeeded it as the “Best Restaurant in describe what they serve as “international campagne. Vichyssoise and onion soup
New York.” I never felt that it deserved haute cuisine.” There are similar restau- came next. Main courses included boeuf
that distinction. The food was good but not rants in Europe and I would bet, if you were Bourgignon, coq au vin, canard a l’orange
great, nor was it elegant. The main dining deposited blindfolded into any one of them (or with cherries) and trout or sole meu-
room resembled a quonset hut. My vote for and given a menu, that you could not deter- niere. Desserts were chocolate mousse,
best French restaurant in the 70s would be mine what country you were in. cherries jubilee, poire Hêlene and pêche
Le Périgord, which had better cuisine and Melba. On our first trip to France togeth-
classier service. I thought that none of the Back to Le Pavillon. It had a floor plan er in 1974, we were astonished to find that
NY restaurants at that time could hold a similar to La Caravelle—a bar, a smaller this was not the common fare in restau-
candle to Michelin two or three star estab- room, then a larger one. Despite the expo- rants over there. Dining in France had
lishments in France where the gastronomy sure and the to-and-fro, the tables in the advanced considerably, particularly under
was extraordinary. front room were the most desired. One day the incentive of nouvelle cuisine, a move-
in 1960, Jack Kennedy and his father, Joe ment that then was barely felt across the
If you were going out to enjoy fine dining were dining there. A reporter came in and Atlantic. It is not clear why French menus
in New York in the 50s or 60s, you would bothered Jack who was then beginning his in New York stayed so uniform. Perhaps it
probably be going to a French restaurant. campaign for the presidency of the United is because New Yorkers felt that that was
By the 70s, the glory days of French dining States. Joe told him to get lost. He did not what French dining was all about. So that
had started to wane. Other choices were want it publicized during the campaign is what they got.
appearing. The Forum of the Twelve Cae- that Jack dined in such elite spots. Henri
sars, the Four Seasons, La Fonda del Sol Soulé saw this and came over. He said, to I am attaching an old menu from La Po-
and Windows on the World all provided effect, that this was his restaurant and tinière. I don’t know its date, but judging
high-end dining that was not based on he would decide who could stay or leave. by the prices, it must be fairly early. I often
French cuisine. Delightful red sauce Ital- The Kennedys were offended and trans- wonder what I would think were I able to
ian-American places were giving way to ferred their allegiance to La Caravelle. The dine there once more. I expect that I would
higher quality establishments based on front room at La Caravelle now became love it. But it is an era past.
the regional cooking of Italy. New Yorkers the dining choice of many of New York’s
were waking up to international cuisines. A-listers. Seating us there was an honor, not Jeffrey Postman, M.D.
a demotion. In a later edition of New York
If you look at a guidebook today, you magazine, I learned that we had been at
would think that many of the most im- Robert Kennedy’s personal table. To this
portant restaurants in New York are still day, I’m convinced it was Susan’s loveli-
French. But only in name. I challenge you ness that landed us in the front room (and
not my new suit).
12 IWFS Wine , Food & F r iend sIWFS: Burgundy
Chablis region, the north-
ernmost wine district of the
BY STEPHEN BROOK
Burgundy region in France
Fall 2020 13Dom Leflaive Chevalier- Montrachet Vineyards 14 IWFS Wine , Food & F r iend s
M
y first visit to Burgundy,
though as a wine enthusiast
rather than a professional,
was in 1986, a time when a
simple phone call was enough to open
the doors to Domaine Rousseau. There
the great Charles Rousseau gave up an
hour of his day so I could taste every cru
in his cellar.
It was also a time of flux, as I realised
the following year, when I ‘worked’ a vin-
tage at Domaine Dujac so as to learn how
fine Burgundy was made. Jacques Seysses
of Dujac was an outsider from Paris with
the means to purchase a fine domaine. He
was very much the exception. Most of his
neighbours had been farming their vine-
yards for centuries. In many ways it was
a closed world in which everyone kept to
themselves. When I lunched with one of Jacques &
the region’s most celebrated producers, Rosalind Seysses
he slid me the wine list. ‘You choose.’ It
was clear he had never tasted his neigh-
bours’ wines. dynamics. Some were very discreet about making friends wanted to know more.
That was beginning to change. On driz- it, others, such as Lalou Bize Leroy and I returned to Dujac every year for
zly days during that vintage, we’d visit Anne-Claude Leflaive, went at it with almost three decades, not pretending to
some other cellars. I’d encounter young the fervour of the newly converted. One give them a helping hand, but as a friend.
winemakers from California or Germany, day when work was done at Dujac, we Lodged close to the family house, I could
‘working’ the vintage more seriously than drove down to Mercurey, where Francois spend my days visiting other domaines
me. At Dujac I shared duties with Austra- Faiveley had just acquired a kind of wind and researching articles. As the years
lian Gary Farr from Geelong, a regular went by, I could observe as I drove up
at harvest-time, and he could barely con- and down the Côte d’Or, how the vine-
ceal his disdain for the indolent dilettante “AGAIN SHE PRESENTED A yards were being transformed. Once
from London, and I couldn’t blame him. NUGGET OF SOIL FOR ME TO neat but arid, they were becoming more
Just as young foreign winemakers were unkempt but more full of life, with herbs
SMELL. IT WAS DECIDEDLY
coming to Burgundy to learn its secrets, and grasses flourishing between the rows
so the next generation of Burgundian vi- RICHER, DAMPER, MORE until they were eventually ploughed back
gnerons were travelling too. Within a few VEGETAL. BACK IN HER into the soil. The change was more than
years you could see the evidence in the TASTING ROOM SHE HAD cosmetic, as it was reflected in the wines.
tasting area: empty bottles from Au Bon PREPARED TWO GLASSES On a visit to Domaine Leflaive, Anne-
Climat or Felton Road. OF HER WINE FROM THE Claude Leflaive walked me through a
While the elder generation were often parcel of Chevalier-Montrachet. Bending
SAME PREMIER CRU IN
complacent, their offspring, freshly qual- down she scrunched up in her palm some
ified or recently returned from travels, PULIGNY: ONE FROM AN soil from a row devoid of vegetation and
gathered in groups to blind-taste Pinots ORGANIC ROW, THE OTH- urged me to smell it. Not much there. Then
or Chardonnays they had brought back ER FROM A BIODYNAMIC on to one of her rows, farmed biodynami-
with them. There was a sense that all of PLOT. AFTER I HAD TASTED cally. Again she presented a nugget of soil
Burgundy could do better. Remember the BOTH BLIND, SHE ASKED for me to smell. It was decidedly richer,
1980s was also the time when the best damper, more vegetal. Back in her tasting
ME WHICH I PREFERRED.
growers were questioning the conven- room she had prepared two glasses of her
tional farming of the time. Was it really FORTUNATELY I CHOSE wine from the same premier cru in Puli-
a good idea to poison the vineyards with THE BIODYNAMIC WINE.” gny: one from an organic row, the other
herbicides and pesticides, and to spread from a biodynamic plot. After I had tasted
chemical fertilisers with abandon? Pro- tunnel. 1987 was a damp vintage, and both blind, she asked me which I preferred.
duction may have soared but quality Faiveley was trying out a system that Fortunately I chose the biodynamic wine.
hadn’t soared with it. would help dry the bunches and avoid
A few brave souls were experimenting dilution. I have no idea how effective the continued on page 16 >
with organic farming, and then with bio- tunnel was, but Seysses and his wine-
Fall 2020 15Negociants such was held not in Paris or New York but in
as Chanson were the Rio de Janeiro, thanks to a rich, informed,
public face of Bur- and generous collector.
gundy. These were The growing worldwide interest in Bur-
the labels you’d find gundy has its consequences. The first is
in most restaurants that supply cannot meet the demand, at
worldwide or in du- least not at the more prestigious end of
ty-free shops. But the market. Winelovers who twenty years
the wines were often ago could afford to buy a few cases of pre-
i nd i st i n g u i shable. mier cru wines from good producers now
Moreover there were find they can barely afford a plain Bour-
‘irregularities’, and gogne from the same domaines. I recall
Chanson was accused the London tastings of the Domaine de
of adding colouring la Romanée-Conti in the mid-1980s, when
matter to its insipid at lunchtime bottles of older vintages of
wines. Soon after the Richebourg or La Tâche would be opened
late Joseph Henriot so that the invitees could just help
from Champagne took themselves. Today at the same tastings,
over the venerable the very limited number of guests are
negociant house (and poured a thimbleful of the new releases.
domaine) of Bouchard Of course no top domaine can pour gen-
Père et Fils in 1995 he erous glasses of grands crus, otherwise
and his team sampled they would be out of wine within weeks
the cellars. Thousands before selling a drop.
of bottles were consid- That’s understood, and if the faithful
ered of unacceptable Burgundy winelover has simply been
Joseph Henriot quality and were priced out of the market by a richer cli-
either declassified or entele, so be it. It’s good news for the do-
sold off to wholesalers. maines, of course, but there’s a negative
< So did her neighbour, Francois Carillon, Of course not all negociants were side too. The worldwide demand has led
who by chance breezed into the tasting having to undo the errors of the past to soaring land prices in the Côte d’Or.
room and was asked to try both glasses. under new owners. Some, such as Jadot Some of the most esteemed grands crus,
This wasn’t a scientific demonstration, and Drouhin, had always made wines of such as Musigny or Montrachet, are 10
but it was indicative of the movement to impeccable quality. New ones, such as hectares or less in surface: were a parcel
restore the health of Burgundy’s vine- Dominique Laurent, bought grapes from to come on the market, the price would be
yards. There was more evidence in the top domaines and vinified and aged them astronomical.
glass in 2002, when the negociant Chan- in 100 percent new oak. Overall, there We know this from recent transactions.
son Père et Fils invited journalists and was a realisation that Burgundy could no When Philippe Engel of Vosne-Romanée
importers to a comprehensive tasting of longer rest on its laurels. Just as there was died suddenly in 2005, important Burgun-
its wines, the oldest of which was a 1915 a new generation of winemakers, so there dian estates tried to acquire the 5-hectare
Beaune Premier Cru. Some of the very old was a new generation of Burgundy enthu- domaine. But the contest was won by an
wines were tiring but most were still full siasts, with palates and wallets enabling outsider: Francois Pinault, owner of Châ-
of vigour and flavour. Then in the 1960s them to appreciate both the heights of teau Latour, Christie’s, and a number of
and 1970s the wines mostly lacked in- which great Burgundy was capable and fashion houses. He allegedly paid 13 mil-
terest, being drab and fairly dilute. This the need to reject wines that were clearly lion Euros for the property, and in 2007
period was of course the nadir for Bur- sub-standard. renamed it Domaine d’Eugénie. That was
gundy, when vineyards were abused and More discerning consumers and collec- chickenfeed compared to the next major
doused in toxic chemicals. tors were a blessing, but also a problem. purchase. In 2014 LVMH, the luxury
The background to this tasting was that The production of top Burgundy wine goods brand, bought the Clos des Lam-
Chanson had been bought in 1999 by the is minute, certainly compared to Bor- brays grand cru monopole for an estimat-
champagne house Bollinger. They put deaux or the Côtes du Rhône. Whereas ed 100 million Euros (roughly 11 million
an immediate stop to herbicides and me- past enthusiasts were mostly European, per hectare), and Stan Kroenke in 2017
chanical harvesting, and reduced yields. by 2000 or so there were new acolytes paid even more for the great Corton-Char-
It didn’t take long for these measures from Asia and the Americas. In 2008 I lemagne estate Bonneau de Martray.
to be reflected in a startling increase was fortunate enough to attend a tasting
in quality. I had often been rebuked by of some 25 different vintages of Montra- continued on page 19 >
Chanson’s previous owner for my nega- chet from Comtes Lafon in the presence
tive tasting notes. Within a decade the of Dominique Lafon, who admitted that
wines were again of excellent quality, as there were wines poured that he had
they had been a century earlier. never tasted. This extraordinary tasting
16 IWFS Wine , Food & F r iend sChablis, France
Fall 2020 17Mâconnais Côte Chalonnaise 18 IWFS Wine , Food & F r iend s
< In the same year Francois Pinault swooped again, buying
the grand cru Clos de Tart next door, also a monopole, for
an alleged 33 million Euros per hectare. That cost can
never be recouped by bottle sales alone, so these flamboy-
ant purchases are essentially trophy-waving.
If you imagine the other domaines in the Côte d’Or were
rubbing their hands with glee at the growing value of
their vineyards, you’d be wrong. French inheritance law
divides properties equally among heirs, and taxes of up
to 45 percent must be paid. If you receive an inheritance
tax bill for millions of Euros thanks to inflated land prices,
there may be no way to pay it. The French are skilled at
making deals within the family that can keep a property
intact. But for many the only option will be to sell. The
previous owner of Clos des Lambrays was a jovial German
businessman called Gunter Freund, with whom I shared
a kitchen lunch a couple of times. After he died in 2010
the property’s sale became inevitable. And so it will be in
the future with other prestigious estates.
Even the most revered estates in Burgundy find it almost
impossible to expand. Both Comtes Lafon and Domaine
Leflaive have grown by buying vineyards in the Mâcon-
nais. The last great sale I can think of in the Côte d’Or
was in 2005, when the Thomas-Moillard estate in Nuits
St. Georges came on the market. There was keen interest
in the property, which included 12 hectares of premiers
and grands crus. Etienne de Montille and Jacques Seysses
teamed up and brought in some private investors. Theirs
was not the highest bid, but it was accepted, as it would
leave the domaine in ideal hands. De Montille concedes
that a comparable operation would be unaffordable today.
It would be wrong to be too apocalytic, but it does seem
that the cosy family-owned domaines will dwindle as
more and more rich trophy-seeking individuals and cor-
porations take out their cheque books. The wines may still
be great but who will be able to afford them? In 2014 the
Château de Pommard was bought by Californian tycoon
Michael Baum. He seems to be doing everything right: About the Author
converting the vineyards to biodynamism, opening a
wine school, offering tours to winelovers and children, STEPHEN BROOK
organising wine and food pairings. But that is the excep- Stephen Brook was born in London and studied
tion. Each year I walk past the Domaine des Lambrays English literature and philosophy at Trinity College,
and see no signs of life. Cambridge. After 15 years as a publisher’s editor in
If average, rather than super-rich, Burgundy lovers can the United States and England, he became a freelance
no longer afford the top crus from top domaines, there writer in 1982. He has written many travel books,
are other ways to enjoy and even collect fine Burgundy. including the bestselling New York Days, New York
Villages such as St. Aubin, Santenay, and Marsannay offer Nights, Honkytonk Gelato, and The Double Eagle. He
excellent wines at moderate prices, and no one can claim has also written guidebooks to the Dordogne, Prague,
that Chablis or the Côte Chalonnaise are overpriced. I can Vienna, the Veneto and Provence, and compiled three
easily think of six Marsannay domaines that I would buy anthologies.
from with confidence and pleasure. His books on wine include Liquid Gold: Dessert
I don’t look back with nostalgia to my first visits to Bur- Wines of the World, Sauternes, The Wines of Califor-
gundy in the 1980s. There were many poor wines: over- nia, and three editions of The Complete Bordeaux. He
cropped, over-sulphured, over-oaked, even fraudulent. In is also a prolific journalist, writing on wine for the
terms of quality alone, we are living in a golden age, and World of Fine Wine, the Financial Times, and other
it’s natural that winelovers worldwide want to experience publications. He has been a Contributing Editor to
it too. Wine regions, and economies, evolve, for better or Decanter since 1996, and won numerous awards for
for worse, or, in this case, for both at the same time. his wine books.
Fall 2020 19WINE THEMES OF OMAR
KHAYYAM’S RUBAIYAT
As translated by Edward Fitzgerald 1859
BY LIVIO BROCCOLINO, IWFS BALTIMORE
whether Omar’s references to
Omar Khayyam
wine should be interpreted in a lit-
eral or allegorical sense. The most
THE MOST POPULAR
ENGLISH TRANSLATION
IS BY EDWARD FITZ-
GERALD WHO FIRMLY
BELIEVED (HE WAS
VERY FIRM IN HIS
BELIEFS) THAT OMAR
CLEARLY MEANT THE
FERMENTED JUICE OF
THE GRAPE AND DID
NOT USE WINE AS A
SYMBOL OF SOME HIGH-
ER MYSTICAL REALITY.
A Book of Verses underneath the Bough, popular English translation is by
A Jug of Wine, a Loaf of Bread—and Thou Edward FitzGerald who firmly
believed (he was very firm
Illustration by Edmund J. Sullivan
It is probably best known
and romantically repeat-
ed verse and few know
in his beliefs) that
Omar clearly meant the
fermented juice of the
The Rubáiyát of Omar Khayyám translated by
Edward FitzGerald (1913)
1971 Grateful Dead Album Influence
the origin. grape and did not use
For millennia lite- wine as a symbol of
rati have eulogized some higher mysti- ymously by FitzGerald in 1859. After 6
spirits and espe- cal reality. Not in months of virtually no sales it was rele-
cially wine in verse doubt is the fact gated to the penny stacks with almost the
and prose. Some of that FitzGerald’s same result. The unsold volumes were
the more engaging version became either given away or consigned to the
and entertaining and remains the dustbin. Today, those first editions sell
observations are most popu la r in the tens of thousands of dollars. From
found in the poem “translation” of there it became increasingly popular
known as the Rubai- any poem into the with both layman and bookman. Typical
yat by 11th century English language. is the reaction of the famous art critic
poet/scientist Omar Edward FitzGerald by That popularity John Ruskin who, in 1863, wrote to the
Khayyam. Rubaiyat Eva Rivett-Carnac (after a is remarkable given still unknown author that: “I never did—
simply means “quatrain” photograph of 1873) the work’s quiet and till this day—read anything so glorious,
or a stanza of four lines. inauspicious beginnings. to my mind as this poem. More—more—
There is some debate as to It was self-published anon- please more.”
20 IWFS Wine , Food & F r iend sYou can also read
