FINE WINE & PREMIUM SPIRITS JANUARY & FEBRUARY 2020 - LCBO.com
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FINE WINE & PREMIUM SPIRITS
JANUARY & FEBRUARY 2020
1 VINTAGES
2 VINTAGES ON THE COVER: Hillside vineyards in Styria, Austria.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Classics Collection
The Vintages Classics Collection puts the world’s finest wines and spirits into your cellar. From Burgundy
grands crus to sky-high single-vineyard Argentine expressions and everything in between, the Classics
Collection offers an exciting assortment of the best, most iconic, most collectible wines from top regions,
stellar vintages, legendary producers and more. Whether you’re a neophyte or a seasoned collector,
these curated selections are sure to satisfy.
January 2020 February 2020
6 FRANCE 20 FRANCE
10 GERMANY 26 GERMANY
11 ITALY 26 ITALY
14 PORTUGAL 29 PORTUGAL
15 SPAIN 29 SPAIN
15 AUSTRALIA 30 AUSTRALIA
16 NEW ZEALAND 30 NEW ZEALAND
16 SOUTH AFRICA 31 SOUTH AFRICA
16 ARGENTINA 31 ARGENTINA
17 CHILE 31 CHILE
17 USA 32 USA
18 FORTIFIED WINE 33 FORTIFIED WINE
34 PRODUCT SUMMARY 38 PRODUCT SUMMARY
42 ORDERING INFORMATION 42 ORDERING INFORMATION
ORDER ONLINE AT PLEASE NOTE:
LCBO.COM/VINTAGES-CLASSICS For each Classics Collection, we do our best to
secure enough stock to satisfy all customer orders.
January Collection: starts January 9 at 8:30 a.m. We regret that sometimes customer demand exceeds
February Collection: starts February 6 at 8:30 a.m. supply. Opening inventory for each Classics Collection
See page 42 for ordering details. will be available at lcbo.com/vintages-classics one
week before online ordering begins.
First-come, first-served. Shop early for best selection. Prices in this catalogue are subject to change without notice. Vintages cannot assume responsibility
for typographical errors. All prices include applicable container deposit and HST.
4 VINTAGES OPPOSITE: A view of the Tuscan landscape through a church archway.
ONLINE ORDERING
STARTS JANUARY 9
JANUARY
CLASSICS COLLECTION
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • JANUARY 2020
FRANCE CHÂTEAU CAP DE MOURLIN 2009
AC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru
CHÂTEAU SIGALAS RABAUD 2009
1er cru, AC Sauternes
A rich, varied selection from Quite an exotic wine that will deliver dark TASTING NOTE: The Sigalas Rabaud was
across the length and breadth fruit and spice, an evocative minty overtone sensational out of barrel and served blind,
of this storied wine country. and mature suggestions of dried fruit, the wine does nothing to dispel my initial
Plenty to entice collectors and the earth and leather. Soft, lush and long, this optimism that this is the apogee for the
curious alike. will be a great option tonight for lamb or estate – so far. It is bestowed with an
braised beef. intense bouquet of quince, orange zest
and almond with a lighter touch of honey
BORDEAUX 12480 (XD) 750 mL $96.00
compared to its peers. The palate is
medium-bodied with great viscosity. This is
RED WINE CHATEAU CLOS DE SARPE 2008 an assertive Sauternes that wants to make
AC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru an impression, although it does not display
CHÂTEAU BELGRAVE 2015 TASTING NOTE: Deep garnet colored, the the complexity or breeding of Yquem and
5e cru, AC Haut-Médoc 2008 Clos de Sarpe has a nose that is Suduiraut. Still, it is very composed and
TASTING NOTE: Barrel Sample. This is wonderfully ripe and decadent with baked perhaps is saving something up for later,
packed with dusty tannins that are supported plums, kirsch and Black Forest cake biding its time as it were. This is a
by intense acidity. The texture, initially dry, notions over hints of star anise, incense, wondrous wine. Drink now-2040.
then reveals layers of black fruits and vibrant char-grilled meats and unsmoked cigar. Score: 95 (Neal Martin, robertparker.com,
acidity. The finish is dry and lingering, with Medium-bodied with incredible freshness Feb. 27, 2013)
good tannic grip. and minerality coming through on the 12233 (S) 375 mL $24.00
Score: 92 (Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast, palate, it features wonderful red fruit
April 1, 2016) accents and spicy sparks in the mouth with
373688 (XD) 750 mL $65.00
a long, mineral-laced finish. Drink date:
2018-2038.
BURGUNDY
Score: 93 (Lisa Perrotti-Brown, MW,
robertparker.com, May 31, 2018)
CÔTE DE NUITS
CHÂTEAU MAYNE-VIEIL
CUVÉE ALIÉNOR VIEILLES VIGNES RED WINE
11754 (XD) 750 mL $162.00
2015
AC Fronsac
HENRI DE VILLAMONT
TASTING NOTE: This is the luxury cuvée WHITE WINE CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY CHÂTELOTS
from vineyards in the Seze family since 1ER CRU 2016
1918. With its perfumed fruits and firm AC
tannins it is serious as well as sumptuous. CHÂTEAU DOISY DAËNE 2010
This wine saw just over 15 months in oak
It has weight and a dry texture that will AC Sauternes
to soften its signature tannic frame. A wine
soften into the blackberry fruits and TASTING NOTE: A juicy, compact style, for food – think lamb or duck – that will
generous structure. This wine, with its with tangerine, apricot, toasted almond and continue to evolve until the early ’30s at
still-firm texture, needs to age, so drink heather notes all rolled together at the core, the very least.
from 2022. Editors’ Choice. waiting to unfurl fully through the unctuous,
Score: 93 (Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast, 571836 (XD) 750 mL $98.00
passion fruit-filled finish. Plenty remains in
April 1, 2018) reserve, but this is hard to resist now. Drink
12447 (XD) 750 mL $33.00 now through 2030. Ranked #45 in the HENRI DE VILLAMONT
2013 Wine Spectator Top 100. GRANDS-ÉCHEZEAUX GRAND CRU
Score: 94 (James Molesworth, 2015
CHÂTEAU KIRWAN 2010 winespectator.com, March 31, 2013) AC
3e cru, AC Margaux TASTING NOTE: Big, rich while also
11755 (S) 750 mL $45.00
TASTING NOTE: This full, fruity wine is smooth, this is going to be an impressive
packed with acidity as well as ripeness. It wine. It has power and firm tannins as well
has a fresh black-currant character, and as plenty of ripe black fruits and acidity.
the structure underneath is strong. It will This wine, from one of the range of grand
develop relatively quickly, but then could crus in Vosne-Romanée, will age well.
hold at its peak for many years. Drink from 2026.
Score: 94 (Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast, Score: 95 (Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast,
Feb. 1, 2013) Nov. 1, 2017)
323238 (D) 750 mL $177.00 571703 (XD) 750 mL $227.00
6 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • JANUARY 2020
MAISON ROCHE DE BELLENE VAUDOISEY-CREUSEFOND
VIEILLES VIGNES POMMARD 2017
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 2015 AC
AC
Pommard is one of the most well-known
TASTING NOTE: The typical firm, tannic growing areas in Burgundy. The wines
structure of a Gevrey-Chambertin is very are typically quite opulent and generous,
present in this young wine. The tannins with richly articulated aromas and flavours.
are balanced with the juicy red-berry fruits, These are among the most muscular
crisp acidity and minerality. Together these Pinots produced in Burgundy, and wines
elements make an impressively dense such as this one from Vaudoisey-
wine that will age well. Drink from 2022. Creusefond can easily age for 12+ years.
Score: 93 (Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast, Decant and serve with beef bourguignon.
Feb. 1, 2018)
13478 (XD) 750 mL $56.00
240424 (XD) 750 mL $74.00 balanced tannins and acidity, and spice
ALBERT MOROT BEAUNE from the wood aging, it will become
BRESSANDES 1ER CRU 2016 a concentrated wine. Drink from 2020.
CÔTE DE BEAUNE AC Score: 93 (Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast,
RED WINE Oct. 1, 2016)
TASTING NOTE: Generous wood and
menthol fight somewhat with the elegant 226340 (XD) 750 mL $66.00
DAVID MOREAU MARANGES 2017 and manifestly cool nose that displays
AC essence of various red berries, humus and ROCHE DE BELLENE CLOS DES
appealing floral hints. The middle weight CHÊNES VOLNAY 1ER CRU 2014
This wine is sourced from vines planted in
flavors aren’t quite as dense but they’re AC
1943 and 1947. David Moreau focuses
finer still with a succulent mid-palate
on expressing the purity of his terroir while TASTING NOTE: So quiet now, but deep,
before concluding in a naturally sweet,
delivering a finessed, charming, ageable darker and more serious than the higher
dusty and balanced finish that flashes a
wine. This one typically offers a supple, toned 2013, yet still so far from showing
touch of youthful austerity. Lovely stuff
refined experience that strikes a perfect either Volnay beauty or charm. The
and particularly so thanks to the relatively
balance between the intensity of the cherries darken and the Premier Cru
fine-grained tannins.
strawberry fruit and a delicately articulated earthy soul rises with the fruit, part
Score: 91 (Allen Meadows, burghound.
rustic provenance. Precise and pure, it will calcaire, more so marl and really
com, April 15, 2018)
drink until 2028+. structured. The tannins are finer and more
610584 (XD) 750 mL $67.00 seriously ingrained in this vintage, clearly
610444 (XD) 750 mL $41.00
stronger and fuller in longevity possibility.
HENRI DE VILLAMONT Keep the Clos Des Chénes faith through
DOMAINE A-F GROS BEAUNE LES RENARDES CORTON the exercise of patience. Drink date:
LES BOUCHEROTTES 1ER CRU 2017 GRAND CRU 2016 2022-2032.
AC AC Score: 94 (Michael Godel, winealign.com,
TASTING NOTE: The 2017 Beaune Les June 19, 2018)
This is a wine that will reflect the power
Boucherottes 1er Cru, matured in around and concentration for which Corton is 638056 (XD) 750 mL $97.00
25% new oak, has a fragrant, pressed- famed. Les Renardes is a walled climat on
flower-scented bouquet offering ample the eastern side of the Montagne de
red berry fruit, hints of Seville orange WHITE WINE
Corton hill, and its wines are notably rich,
marmalade and a light vanilla note. The earthy and structured. This example will
medium-bodied is fresh and vibrant with have dense, focused dark fruit with leather CAPUANO-FERRERI CUVÉE
supple tannin, and the oak is very well and earth tones and a marked minerality. It PRESTIGE CHASSAGNE-
integrated toward the fleshy and quite will reward patience and will easily cellar MONTRACHET 2018
persistent finish. This is one of my favorite for 15-20 years. AC
wines from Domaine A-F Gros this year
561225 (XD) 750 mL $125.00 This hand-harvested and -sorted wine will
and it comes highly recommended.
be round and serious, with bright citrus
Drinking date: 2021-2035.
fruit, a creamy texture and notable stony
Score: 90-92 (Neal Martin, vinous.com, ALBERT MOROT LES CENT VIGNES minerality. Long and charming with a
Jan. 2019) BEAUNE 1ER CRU 2014 lip-smacking finish.
11729 (XD) 750 mL $106.00 AC
13673 (XD) 750 mL $93.00
Rich and juicy, this wine holds excellent
potential. With its ripe red-berry fruit,
7 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • JANUARY 2020
JEAN-MARC BOILLOT PULIGNY-
MONTRACHET 2018
be easygoing and round, with good weight CHABLIS
and fruit presence. Look to enjoy it over
AC the next 5-7 years. WHITE WINE
Jean-Marc Boillot has earned a reputation 540161 (XD) 750 mL $56.00
as a winemaker determined to craft wines DOMAINE DES MALANDES
of focus and precision. Such is his drive VAU DE VEY CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2018
for purity and quality that he actually broke MAISON LOUIS LATOUR AC
with his family, believing that their approach CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET
1ER CRU 2017 TASTING NOTE: The touch of wood aging
was creating mediocre wines. The Jean- has released the ripe, creamy texture
AC
Marc Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 2018 will and rich structure of this full-bodied wine.
be floral and fresh, with citrus, apple and Crafted to reflect power and concentration, It is intense and mineral, with delicious
spice. Expect a bracing, lean, balanced this wine will have exotic, layered spice, potential and good acidity at the end. Drink
wine of great energy that will drink well white flowers, lychee, apple, pear and this wine from 2021. Editors’ Choice.
through 2025+. melon framed by delicate, artfully Score: 93 (Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast,
expressed oak tones. Oct. 1, 2019 )
13674 (XD) 750 mL $136.00
77115 (XD) 750 mL $121.00 701219 (XD) 750 mL $42.00
DOMAINE LOUIS JADOT MEURSAULT DOMAINE BILLAUD-SIMON
CHARMES 1ER CRU 2017 MILLER-CYROT MEURSAULT 2017
LES PREUSES CHABLIS GRAND CRU
AC AC
2017
TASTING NOTE: The 2017 Meursault Rich and powerful, Meursault’s Chardon- AC
Charmes 1er Cru comes from Domaine nays are wines of refinement and character. TASTING NOTE: The best of the Billaud-
Prieur-Brunet, specifically two plots in Their benchmark suggestions of white Simon grands crus in 2017, this comes from
Meursault Charmes-Dessus (1.2 hectares), flowers, nuts, butter and honeyed citrus old vines on the northern part of slope. It may
one close to Les Referts and the other fruit are the epitome of opulence for be unwooded but it’s certainly not lacking
close to Genevrières. These are integrated Burgundian whites. This is a wine of in flavour or salinity, with considerable
with existing vineyards owned by Louis significance that will shine with lobster complexity and understated power. Drink
Jadot, so the label will be under Domaine or veal. date: 2022-2033.
Louis Jadot and not Prieur-Brunet. This 13677 (XD) 750 mL $103.00 Score: 96 (Tim Atkin, MW, decanter.com,
has a pretty, quite precise bouquet of citrus July 17, 2018)
fruit infused with yellow flower aromas;
light touches of walnut emerge with time. MURISALTIEN SOUS LE BOIS DE 360834 (XD) 750 mL $121.00
The palate is well balanced with a fine bead NOËL PERNAND-VERGELESSES
of acidity and a hint of black currant leaf 2017
AC DOMAINE BILLAUD-SIMON
toward the finish; certainly a more elegant MONT DE MILIEU 1ER CRU CHABLIS
take on this Premier Cru. The cru has The white wines of Pernand-Vergelesses 2017
clearly benefited from the addition of the are floral and spicy, with a delectable AC
new holdings. An excellent Meursault. minerality and impressive balance and TASTING NOTE: The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru
Drinking window: 2020-2032. approachability. This one will be a treat Mont de Milieu confirmed its strong showing
Score: 92-94 (Neal Martin, vinous.com, with sushi, or freshwater fish in a white- of last year, opening in the glass with a
Jan. 2019) wine sauce. classy bouquet of crisp green orchard fruit,
404855 (XD) 750 mL $135.00 12128 (XD) 750 mL $49.00 oyster shell and white flowers. On the palate,
it’s medium to full-bodied, layered and
concentrated, with excellent depth at the
DOMAINE TAWSE VERGELESSES
core, racy acids and a long, mineral finish.
SAVIGNY-LÈS-BEAUNE 1ER CRU 2017
AC Drink date: 2021-2037.
Score: 92+ (William Kelley, robertparker.
Speaking of the white wines of the 2017 com, Aug. 30, 2019)
vintage, Stephen Tanzer of vinous.com had
this to say: “The largest white Burgundy 373548 (XD) 750 mL $64.00
crop since 2009 has yielded pliant,
elegant, pure wines with considerable
aromatic appeal and early accessibility,
along with the balance and stuffing for at
least mid-term aging” (September 6,
2018). This Savigny from Moray Tawse will
8 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • JANUARY 2020
RHÔNE Each parcel is vinified and aged separately
before final blending occurs. The resulting
wine is pure, pleasurable and eminently
NORTHERN RHÔNE ageable; consider following this wine for
RED WINE 15 years or more.
387340 (XD) 750 mL $76.00
J.L. CHAVE SÉLECTION SILÈNE
CROZES-HERMITAGE 2017
AC WHITE WINE
TASTING NOTE: Bright violet. Mineral-
DOMAINE CHRISTIAN MOREAU accented cherry, boysenberry and smoky M. CHAPOUTIER CHANTE-ALOUETTE
PÈRE & FILS LES CLOS CHABLIS bacon aromas are complicated by HERMITAGE BLANC 2017
GRAND CRU 2017 suggestions of olive and candied flowers. AC
AC Energetic and focused for the vintage, TASTING NOTE: The blended white
TASTING NOTE: Les Clos produces the offering concentrated bitter cherry, cassis Hermitage the 2017 Hermitage Chante-
richest of Chablis’ grands crus. From 50- to and violet pastille flavors braced by a Alouette is a terrific wine this year, maybe
60-year-old vines; 60% in stainless steel, spine of juicy acidity. Closes sappy, smooth the best I’ve ever tasted. Honeyed pear
40% in used barrels. Great precision and and quite long, with sneaky tannins and and citrus notes lead into a full-bodied,
structure for a great future; an exceptional a lingering suggestion of juicy black and brassy-hued wine with a rich, velvety
wine in 2017. Drink date: 2021-2030. blue fruits. Drink date: 2022-2030. texture. It’s lush, broad and mouthfilling,
Score: 97 (Steven Spurrier, decanter.com, Score: 92 (Josh Raynolds, vinous.com, with a long, harmonious finish. While
Feb. 21, 2019) Sept. 2019) delicious now, expect it to close up within
42366 (D) 750 mL $96.00 387332 (XD) 750 mL $31.00 another year or two, only to reopen once it
hits about age ten. Drink date: 2018-2035.
Score: 94 (Joe Czerwinski, robertparker.com,
CÔTE CHALONNAISE MICHELAS ST. JEMMS LA Oct. 31, 2018)
CHASSELIÈRE CROZES-HERMITAGE
WHITE WINE 2017 140541 (XD) 750 mL $99.00
AC
FAIVELEY MERCUREY BLANC 2016 TASTING NOTE: Bottled just 11 days prior REMI NIERO LES RAVINES
AC to my visit, the 2017 Crozes Hermitage la CONDRIEU 2017
Chasseliere comes from 40-year-old vines AC
TASTING NOTE: Shows richness and
concentration, offering apricot, peach, grown in the sectors of Pont de l’Isere and TASTING NOTE: The 2017 Condrieu Les
floral, lemon and light spice flavors. All the Mercurol. It spent 12 months in used barrels Ravines is a blend of five parcels, mainly on
elements are well-balanced and the finish and an oak cuve and offers next-level granite-based soils. Forty percent is barrel
is long. Drink now through 2021. intensity compared to the other Crozes- fermented and aged, with the balance
Score: 90 (Bruce Sanderson, Hermitage’s at this address. Rich, tannic going into stainless steel. Loaded with
winespectator.com, Sept. 30, 2018) blackberries cascade over the full-bodied floral and apricot aromas, it speaks clearly
palate, adding hints of dark chocolate and of Viognier on the nose. It’s medium to
13372 (XD) 750 mL $35.00 espresso on the chewy finish. Drink date: full-bodied on the palate, where it’s plump,
2020-2027. succulent and harmonious, with a long,
Score: 92+ (Joe Czerwinski, robertparker. velvety finish. Drink date: 2018-2020.
BEAUJOLAIS com, Dec. 28, 2018) Score: 92 (Joe Czerwinski, robertparker.com,
637843 (XD) 750 mL $34.00 com, Dec. 28, 2018)
RED WINE
638106 (XD) 750 mL $84.00
CHÂTEAU DU MOULIN-À-VENT 2015 J.L. CHAVE SÉLECTION FARCONNET
AP Moulin-à-Vent HERMITAGE 2015
TASTING NOTE: This wine is beautifully
AC SOUTHERN RHÔNE
balanced, with rich tannins and great Since 1481, the small family-owned Chave RED WINE
concentration. Ripe black fruits dominate has been a driving force in the wines
the structure, giving it density that is of the Rhône Valley. The grapes for this
DOMAINE BRUSSET LES CHABRILES
enhanced by the wood aging. The aftertaste Hermitage are sourced from three parcels CAIRANNE 2017
is balanced, juicy and ready to drink. on the Hermitage hill, each of which AC Côtes du Rhône-Villages
Score: 92 (Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast, brings a particular aspect to the final wine:
Diognières, which imparts spice notes; TASTING NOTE: The 2017 Cairanne
May 1, 2019)
Péléat, which adds finesse; and Gréffieux, Vieilles Vignes looks great up front, with
12466 (D) 750 mL $34.00 from where the wine gets its structure. oodles of fresh raspberry and cassis fruit
9 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • JANUARY 2020
and subtle hints of licorice. It’s full-bodied
and does show off some firm tannins on CHAMPAGNE PROVENCE
the finish, but I’m betting those will resolve RED WINE
quickly. Drink date: 2020-2030. BILLECART-SALMON BRUT RÉSERVE
Score: 91-94 (Joe Czerwinski, CHAMPAGNE
robertparker.com, Oct. 31, 2018) AC DOMAINE LE SUFFRENE
CUVÉE LES LAUVES BANDOL 2015
529347 (D) 750 mL $31.00 TASTING NOTE: A fine straw-gold colour AC
with great finesse of bubble flow and
mousse. Joyful aromas of apple blossom and TASTING NOTE: 90% Mourvedre, 10%
DOMAINE DE SAINT SIFFREIN Carignan. Slightly animal nose leading
CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2015 ripe pear. A full, defined palate demonstrates
richness that will help to give this a long life onto a very densely packed palate with a
AC core of sweet black fruit, black chocolate,
in the cellar.
TASTING NOTE: One of my favorite Score: 95 (Michael Edwards, decanter.com, cocoa and black cherries soaked in
straight Châteauneufs was this effort from Feb. 6, 2017) booze. Food please.
Saint Siffrein. The 2015 Chateauneuf Score: 96 (Decanter World Wine Awards,
du Pape boasts remarkable ripeness and 81976 (XD) 750 mL $73.00 2018)
power without any heat, incredibly pure 392969 (D) 750 mL $53.00
raspberries and stone fruit, rich, velvety BILLECART-SALMON BRUT ROSÉ
tannins that never seem obtrusive and a CHAMPAGNE
long, intense finish. It’s a classic blend AC
of 65% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15%
Mourvèdre and 5% Cinsault, aged in a
TASTING NOTE: Cinnamon and dried
nutmeg add to the experience of bread
GERMANY
combination of stainless steel tanks and A pure, refined Riesling
dough and rose petals. Flavorful on the that will continue to evolve
foudres. It should drink well on release and
medium-bodied palate and finely poised for decades.
possess at least 15 years of longevity.
with bright acidity. Medium-long on the
Drink date: 2017-2032.
finish. Drink now. [William Kelley of
Score: 94 (Joe Czerwinski, robertparker.com,
Oct. 31, 2017 )
robertparker.com awarded this wine a
rating of 91 points and suggested a MOSEL
169771 (D) 750 mL $59.00 drinking window extending through 2033.] WHITE WINE
Score: 93 (James Suckling, jamessuckling.
com, May 7, 2019)
ALSACE 724559 (D) 750 mL $119.00
WEINGUT SELBACH-OSTER
ZELTINGER SCHLOSSBERG
WHITE WINE AUSLESE RIESLING 2016
Prädikatswein
BOECKEL ZOTZENBERG RIESLING
LOIRE TASTING NOTE: The 2016 Zeltinger
2015 WHITE WINE Schlossberg Riesling Auslese offers a
AC Alsace Grand Cru deep, pure, cool and smoky bouquet
of ripe and concentrated Riesling fruits
TASTING NOTE: A lovely touch of orange DOMAINE HUET LE MONT MOELLEUX along with crunchy slate plates. Silky,
zest teases the nose and there also is a VOUVRAY 2017 round and lush on the palate, with very
lovely hint of chervil. The streamlined palate AC fine tannins and lingering salinity, this
comes in with bundled citrus notes. The is a gorgeously fine and salty Riesling
TASTING NOTE: A beauty, with an inviting
tart flesh of tangerine and the zest of lemon with structure, finesse and tensioned
display of succulent yellow apple, green
are softened and enriched with orange oil length. Extremely stimulating and fine,
plum, pear, persimmon and quince flavors
and ample concentration. This is pure and with weathering slate on the palate.
that ripples through the long finish, while
racy, linear and bold. There is something Pure and salty, just gorgeous. Drink date:
light verbena, ginger and honeysuckle
salty and energetic, something incredibly 2018-2050.
notes dart around. A long green tea echo
fresh and vibrant at the core. The palate Score: 95 (Stephan Reinhardt,
runs through the finish. Shows terrific
and finish are absolutely dry, the echo is robertparker.com, April 27, 2018)
range and purity, with the sweetness
long and clean. Blastingly fresh right now,
easily harnessed for balance. Drink date: 11696 (M) 750 mL $53.00
sure to evolve. Drink 2019-2037.
2019 through 2040.
Score: 95 (Anne Krebiehl, MW, Wine
Score: 96 (James Molesworth,
Enthusiast, Dec. 1, 2017)
winespectator.com, Nov. 15, 2018)
12474 (D) 750 mL $38.00
571729 (S) 750 mL $68.00
10 VINTAGESTHE CLASSICS COLLECTION • JANUARY 2020
ITALY VIRNA CANNUBI BOSCHIS BAROLO
2014 SICILY
Astonishing Amarones, DOCG
highly rated Brunellos, ageable WHITE WINE
TASTING NOTE: The 2014 Barolo
Barolos, refined Chiantis
Cannubi Boschis is a wine of depth and
and much more. PLANETA CHARDONNAY 2017
substance. This Barolo achieves a very
DOC Sicilia
pretty level of density and power for what
is a cooler vintage. Red rose aromas rise to TASTING NOTE: It has become one of Sicily’s
PIEDMONT the top but are quickly followed by more
substantial tones of blackberry and ripe
wine ambassadors abroad. The 2017 Sicilia
Menfi Chardonnay boasts the energy and
RED WINE cherry. This is a mid-weight effort that is radiance of the new world of Sicilian enology.
enhanced by finely tuned layers of spice Toasted spice and apricot are followed by
and crushed stone. The wine needs a bit honey, poached pear and sweet spice such
GIACOMO CONTERNO VIGNA of time to open and put on volume, but as cinnamon and nutmeg (but only just a
FRANCIA BARBERA D’ALBA 2017 pinch). I’ll give this wine a solid 10-year
once it does it sails forth with pride and
DOC
purpose. Drink date: 2020-2035. drinking window. There is a touch of sweet
TASTING NOTE: Compared to the Score: 93 (Monica Larner, robertparker.com, honey on the finish. Drink date: 2018-2028.
expression from the Cerretta vineyard, June 29, 2018) Score: 92 (Monica Larner, robertparker.com,
the 2017 Barbera d’Alba Vigna Francia is Dec. 28, 2018)
378448 (XD) 750 mL $96.00
even darker in color with more austerity
485102 (XD) 750 mL $50.00
and muscle power at the back. The alcohol
reading of the two wines is the same CONTERNO MONFORTINO RISERVA
(15.5%), but this expression offers less BAROLO 2013
obvious fruit and more dark mineral DOCG TUSCANY
instead. The soils in the Francia vineyard TASTING NOTE: The 2013 Barolo Riserva RED WINE
see a mix of limestone sand and clay, and Monfortino is a huge, towering wine
this is true of where both the Barbera and marked by serious fruit intensity and a
the Nebbiolo vines are located. You sense backbone of firm, classically austere GAJA CA’MARCANDA MAGARI 2017
an increased mineral presence in the DOP Bolgheri
tannins. Certainly next to the 2014 and
Francia with iron, salt and scorched earth. 2015, the sheer tannic clout of the 2013 TASTING NOTE: This wine is released
This full-throttle Barbera is penetrating and is impossible to miss. Sage mint, tobacco before the Camarcanda blend. Angelo Gaja
deep. This is a fine expression of the grape, and dried flower notes add striking shades and his family have worked this vintage
offering exacting detail and precision. of aromatic nuance, but the 2013 is with a deft hand. This hot 2017 growing
Score: 94 (Monica Larner, robertparker.com, ultimately distinguished by its huge, potent conditions have been harnessed for their
June 28, 2019) personality. It is sure to thrill those who positive attributes, such as the thickness
13552 (D) 750 mL $82.00 own it for many decades to come. In 2013, and the dark concentration of the fruit and,
Roberto Conterno did not bottle his Barolo consequently, the wine’s freshness. Any
Francia. Instead, he chose to use all of the negative implications have been absolutely
NERVI GATTINARA 2016 fruit for the flagship Barolo Monfortino, eliminated and worked through. Nothing
DOCG escapes Angelo’s watchful eye. The 2017
which up until the present, he had only
TASTING NOTE: Tasted from the barrel, the done once before, in 2002. Bolgheri Rosso Magari is a blend of
2016 Gattinara will be bottled in September Score: 99 (Antonio Galloni, vinous.com, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and
and will hit the market one month later in Nov. 2018) Petit Verdot. Drink date: 2020-2035.
October. This is a more important wine Score: 94+ (Monica Larner, robertparker.
13551 (D) 750 mL $978.00
compared to the 2015. It shows more depth com, May 16, 2019)
and substance in the mouth and more 971432 (XD) 750 mL $104.00
length. It’s more robust too. The consumer PIER VILA RISERVA BARBARESCO
should wait several more months for this 2007
one. Starting in 2018, the Nervi estate is DOCG
fully under the control of Roberto Conterno TASTING NOTE: Charming lifted red-fruits
of the Giacomo Conterno estate in Monforte nose. The palate is rich, broad, weighty and
d’Alba. Drink date: 2021-2030. concentrated, coffee and spice flavours
Score: 91-93 (Monica Larner, robert and mellow tannins.
parker.com, June 28, 2019) Score: 91 (Decanter World Wine Awards,
13528 (XD) 750 mL $79.00 2018)
318113 (XD) 750 mL $39.00
11 VINTAGESTHE CLASSICS COLLECTION • JANUARY 2020
PETROLO GALATRONA 2016 BRANCAIA IL BLU 2015 depth and complexity. The 2013 is a wine
DOC Val d'Arno di Sopra IGT Toscana of roots (liquorice stick, root of rhubarb)
TASTING NOTE: This is the flagship wine TASTING NOTE: This is the wine that put more than fruit (pomegranate juice at the
from Luca Sanjust’s Petrolo estate located Brancaia on the map of Tuscany’s most core) with just a touch of Earl Grey, and
not too far from Arezzo in the Valdarno area celebrated estates. A blend of 70% Merlot, sustained by a crunchy palate. It’s angular,
of eastern Tuscany. The 2016 Galatrona is 25% Sangiovese and a smaller percentage as expected for a young Sangiovese, yet
indeed a masterpiece to behold. This wine of Cabernet Sauvignon (fermented with elegant and savoury. A classic wine in one of
offers thick layering and deep intensity with indigenous yeasts in conical steel vats its classy vintages. Drink date: 2020-2043.
aromas that offer an incredible range, starting and aged in new and neutral barrique for Score: 96 (Aldo Fiordelli, decanter.com,
off with luscious dark chocolate on one side 20 months), the 2015 Il Blu is a wine that Oct. 27, 2018)
and ending with fragrant white truffle on the enthusiastically embraces the energy, heat 702274 (D) 750 mL $88.00
far end of its long aromatic trajectory. You get and sunshine of the vintage. The fruit is
plummy fruit, spice, sweet tobacco and tilled dark and slightly sweet with aromas of
earth packed tight in between. This full- black cherries and dried blackberries. ISOLE E OLENA GRAN SELEZIONE
CHIANTI CLASSICO 2013
bodied Merlot is softly textured and succulent Those flavors deliver rich, soft intensity.
DOCG
with long-lasting flavor intensity on the close. The wine is not quite full-bodied, because
Petrolo’s Merlot is planted in a ten-hectare the mouthfeel is elegant and finessed, but TASTING NOTE: The 2013 Chianti Classico
parcel distinguished by thick clay soils. I have it does deliver lasting power, freshness and Gran Selezione is breathtaking. Beautifully
been watching Galatrona’s evolution for years polished tannins. Drink date: 2018-2030. ripe, deep and expressive, the 2013 has it
and have tasted the wine on occasion in Score: 94+ (Monica Larner, robertparker. all: deep fruit, stunning aromatic presence
various vertical tastings. This is my favorite com, Oct. 31, 2018) and tremendous structure. Black cherry,
vintage made thus far. This is a stunning set of pomegranate, rose petal, mint and lavender
31559 (XD) 750 mL $94.00
new releases from Luca Sanjust’s beautiful all meld together in this super-expressive,
Petrolo property near Arezzo. Drink date: resonant Chianti Classico. An absolutely
2020-2040. MARCHESI DE’ FRESCOBALDI killer wine, the Gran Selezione is a fabulous,
Score: 98 (Monica Larner, robertparker.com, MORMORETO 2015 contemporary expression of Chianti
May 31, 2019) IGT Toscana Classico at its very finest. Drops of
TASTING NOTE: There’s a purity of fruit Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah round out
21998 (D) 750 mL $183.00
to this one with sliced berries and currants. the blend. Paolo De Marchi gave the 2013
Medium to full body, very fine tannins and a year in barrique and second year in cask.
ARGIANO SOLENGO 2015 a clean and fresh finish. Drink date: 2021-2038.
IGT Toscana Score: 94-95 (James Suckling, Score: 98+ (Antonio Galloni, vinous.com,
TASTING NOTE: Fantastic aromas of jamessuckling.com, Oct. 7, 2016) July 2018)
flowers such as violets and roses with dark 951210 (XD) 750 mL $70.00 483503 (XD) 750 mL $311.00
purple fruits and hints of stones, too. Full
body with ultra-fine tannins and a long and
QUERCET DI CASTELLINA SEI GRAN PODERE LE RIPI CIELO D’ULISSE
linear finish. This is a return to the great
SELEZIONE CHIANTI CLASSICO 2015 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2013
Solengos of the mid-1990s. The best since DOCG
1997. Cabernet sauvignon 50%, petit DOCG
verdot 30%, merlot 15% and sangiovese TASTING NOTE: An oaky vanilla note TASTING NOTE: I always feel like I’ve
5%. Drinkable now but better in 2020. introduces this suave red. The oak is entered a vinous fairyland when I taste the
Score: 97 (James Suckling, jamessuckling. well-integrated, nicely framing black cherry, wines made at Podere le Ripi. These are
com, Aug. 28, 2017) leather, wild herb and tar flavors, all backed highly distinctive expressions that offer
by dense tannins. Ruggedly polished. Best flurries of the unreal and unexpected. In the
43398 (D) 750 mL $83.00 case of the 2013 Brunello di Montalcino
from 2021 through 2034.
Score: 94 (Bruce Sanderson, Cielo d’Ulisse, the aromas dart around like
winespectator.com, Feb. 28, 2019) Tinker Bell touching on red cherry, raspberry,
licorice, cola and grilled herb. Each one of
11677 (D) 750 mL $57.00 those characteristics is suddenly made
bright and alive as if by a magic wand. A new
CASTELLO DI MONSANTO IL POGGIO vineyard parcel was recently purchased on
RISERVA CHIANTI CLASSICO 2013 the eastern side of the Brunello appellation,
DOCG and fruit for this wine comes from this new,
biodynamic site. Drink date: 2020-2030.
TASTING NOTE: It’s difficult to think of any
Score: 94 (Monica Larner, robertparker.com,
wine within Tuscany that has changed as
Feb. 28, 2018)
little over the last 40 years as Il Poggio. The
soil in Monsanto is full of ‘galestro’, the 11807 (XD) 750 mL $76.00
schist best suited for Sangiovese to give
12 VINTAGESTHE CLASSICS COLLECTION • JANUARY 2020
one where periods of heat alternated with
well-timed spells of rain. Overall temper-
atures remained warm (but never extreme)
throughout the year, which allowed the fruit
to ripen evenly. Still, it was a challenging
vintage, and De Marchi was forced to carry
out a stringent selection in his vineyards.
Drinking window: 2015-2027.
Score: 96 (Antonio Galloni, vinous.com,
Oct. 2010)
12639 (XD) 750 mL $175.00
VENETO
RED WINE
FATTORIA DEI BARBI RISERVA and savory, doling out juicy wild cherry,
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2012 raspberry preserve, cinnamon and star ROMANO DAL FORNO AMARONE
DOCG anise set against firm polished tannins. DELLA VALPOLICELLA 2012
TASTING NOTE: Showing a heavier gait Fresh acidity keeps it balanced and DOCG
and footprint, the 2012 Brunello di ensures good aging potential. A lovely
TASTING NOTE: Michael Garner: Exuberant,
Montalcino Riserva will appeal to those wine. Drink date: 2020-2032. Cellar
dense and chewy with peppery black fruit
who love the dark side of Brunello. The Selection.
flavours, while showing some delicacy of
wine boasts dense richness and black fruit Score: 96 (Kerin O’Keefe, Wine Enthusiast,
aroma. Intense and will develop further,
aromas with spice, leather and tar. What Jan. 5, 2018)
perhaps offering more power than grace.
sets this Riserva apart, however, is that it 382739 (XD) 750 mL $146.00 Andrew Jefford: It’s not showy on the nose
never feels too heavy or jammy. That’s the but is super-attractive, and it just grows
best part: You get a well balanced and more so the more time you spend with it.
pleasurable interpretation from a warm ISOLE E OLENA CEPPARELLO 2007
IGT Toscana On the palate it’s rich, deep, magnificently
vintage. Drink date: 2020-2035. tannic and long – an absolutely unbridled
Score: 94+ (Monica Larner, robertparker. TASTING NOTE: The 2007 Cepparello Amarone, yet at the same time of extra-
com, Feb. 28, 2018) (Sangiovese) makes a case for itself as one ordinary resonance, authority and subtlety.
705434 (XD) 750 mL $134.00 of the finest wines ever made at Isole e An Amarone masterclass! Monty Waldin: Its
Olena. It is an open, sublime Cepparello evident concentration really comes through
endowed with tons of clarity and definition. on the palate, with a mix of smooth and
FULIGNI RISERVA BRUNELLO The ripe red fruit floats on a core of refined, slightly more savoury, drier tannins that
DI MONTALCINO 2012 silky tannins that caress the palate with mingle amicably under some ripely sweet
DOCG exceptional elegance and finesse. As the red fruit, while finishing with a distinct
TASTING NOTE: Bright and juicy, this is wine sits in the glass its inner perfume brightness. Drinking window: 2020-2030.
packed with cherry, strawberry, floral gradually emerges, leading to an eternal, Score: 96 (decanter.com, May 2019)
and mineral aromas and flavors. Linear in beautifully crafted finish. The ripeness of the
vintage is beautifully balanced by the acidity 711440 (XD) 750 mL $462.00
shape and tightly wound, yet very pure,
with a long, detailed aftertaste that pulls that is the trademark of Sangiovese grown
all the elements together. Best from 2021 in these hillside plots. Simply put, this is an
through 2040. Collectibles. utterly thrilling wine that will be a joy to follow
Score: 98 (Bruce Sanderson, over the coming years. In many ways, the
winespectator.com, June 30, 2018) restraint, elegance and polish all suggest
Cepparello is the Haut-Brion of Tuscany’s
294090 (XD) 750 mL $208.00
high-end, pure Sangioveses. The 2007
Cepparello was fermented in wood uprights
PADELLETTI RISERVA BRUNELLO DI and saw three weeks of contact on the skins.
MONTALCINO 2012 Malolactic fermentation took place in equal
DOCG parts steel and French oak. The final blend
TASTING NOTE: This classic, fragrant was assembled and the wine was
Brunello boasts aromas of new leather, subsequently aged in French oak barrels
pipe tobacco, fragrant purple flower and (1/3 new) for 18 months. Proprietor Paolo
balsamic notes of eucalyptus. It’s elegant De Marchi describes the 2007 season as
13 VINTAGESTHE CLASSICS COLLECTION • JANUARY 2020
ROMANO DAL FORNO AMARONE
DELLA VALPOLICELLA 2006
DOCG
TASTING NOTE: With high levels of sugar
and acid, the grapes in 2006 were ideal
candidates for appassimento. This is just
as rich as the monumental 2004, with
even more wood showing on the palate. It
has powerful dark fruit, but takes a more
herbaceous line that finishes slightly
shorter. Still a great wine, but in the shadow
of ’04. Drinking window: 2020-2045.
Score: 96 (James Button, decanter.com,
March 6, 2018)
13331 (XD) 750 mL $619.00
ROMANO DAL FORNO VALPOLICELLA ROMANO DAL FORNO AMARONE
SUPERIORE 2012 DELLA VALPOLICELLA 2009
DOC
TASTING NOTE: A very rich and spicy nose
DOCG
TASTING NOTE: A remarkable vintage,
PORTUGAL
Two impressive, ageable blends,
of kirsch, sweet morello cherries, spice with an early spring and very warm one from Alentejo featuring
box, hazlenuts and vanilla beans with dried summer, producing grapes with potential mostly Syrah with Touriga Franca,
dark cherry cake and lots of cedar, too. Full sugar levels second only to 2003. As you and the other a Douro blend of Touriga
body, sweet fruit, vibrant acidity, ripe and may expect, then, this wine is bursting with Nacional and Touriga Franca.
round tannins and a fruit-forward finish. plush, sweet red and black fruits; so tight
Always excellent. Drink now. [Alison Napjus and grippy as to be almost impenetrable at RED WINE
of winespectator.com awarded this wine present. There is some cherry, herb and
a rating of 92 points, suggesting a drinking spirity damson towards the finish, but that
window extending through 2029.] really is just the tip of the iceberg. Drinking MONTE DA RAVASQUEIRA VINHA
Score: 94 (James Suckling, jamessuckling. window: 2021-2048. DAS ROMÃS 2016
com, Oct. 20, 2017) Score: 97 (James Button, decanter.com, Vinho Regional Alentejano
578666 (XD) 750 mL $129.00 March 6, 2018) TASTING NOTE: Planted in what was once
13329 (XD) 750 mL $536.00 a pomegranate orchard, the vines give a
strongly structured wine that benefits from
ROMANO DAL FORNO AMARONE the spice flavors the wood aging had
DELLA VALPOLICELLA 2010 ROMANO DAL FORNO AMARONE imbued. Its big blackberry fruit flavors are
DOCG DELLA VALPOLICELLA 2008 solid, but still developing. This impressive
TASTING NOTE: 2010 is a more considered DOCG wine is likely to be ready to drink from 2020.
vintage compared to the outright opulence TASTING NOTE: The 2008 Amarone della Score: 93 (Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast,
of 2009, but it’s no shrinking violet, Valpolicella is compelling. With a little air, Nov. 1, 2019)
especially in Dal Forno’s hands. This has a the tannins begin to soften, releasing a 460790 (D) 750 mL $35.00
meaty nose with savoury hedgerow fruit , myriad of intense dark aromas and flavors.
surprisingly open already. I had to put an Bittersweet chocolate, cloves, violets,
exclamation mark after writing ‘elegant’ in plums and blackberry jam cover every inch
my notes, as it seems incomprehensible that of the palate in a stunning, headspinning
a wine of this magnitude could still have Amarone that captures all of the best
such balletic balance. It is broad and juicy, qualities of the year. When Romano Dal
with chalky grip and clean, fresh acids Forno’s wines are on, there is nothing quite
followed by a hint of warmth on the long like them, and that is certainly the case
finish. Drinking window: 2019-2050. here. If opened young, the 2008 needs a
Score: 98 (James Button, decanter.com, little air. Actually, a lot of air. Drinking
March 6, 2018) window: 2016-2033.
13328 (D) 750 mL $519.00 Score: 98 (Antonio Galloni, vinous.com,
March 2014)
13330 (D) 750 mL $562.00
14 VINTAGESTHE CLASSICS COLLECTION • JANUARY 2020
AUSTRALIA
PRATS & SYMINGTON CHRYSEIA
2016
DOC Douro
Three of Australia’s
TASTING NOTE: An impressive red that finest wine regions offering
shows finesse to the generous profile of up a taste of why their wines are
cherry tart, red plum and raspberry gelée must-know and must-try.
notes, cast with licorice, Earl Grey tea,
pepper and graphite details. Aromas of
violet and mocha echo on the tannic finish.
RED WINE
Needs a few years in the cellar. Best from
2021 through 2031. RYMILL COONAWARRA
Score: 95 (Gillian Sciaretta, winespectator. THE SURVEYOR
com, May 31, 2019) CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015
538660 (XD) 750 mL $105.00 foudre and 225- and 500-liter oak barrels Coonawarra, South Australia
to make enough wine to fill some 7,000
TASTING NOTE: Best barrels of cabernet
bottles. It has a quite classical profile, with a
from the estate 35yo vines. 100% new
mixture of fruit and spice (some new oak was
French oak. It’s remarkably elegant despite
used in the élevage), and in a cool year like
its heft. Blackberry, boysenberry and
SPAIN
2016, it should have all the ingredients to
blackcurrant all combine with tobacco,
develop nicely in bottle. It has chalky tannins
mint and creamy/smoky oak to create a
A pair of Tempranillo-led from the limestone soils, which adds to that
gorgeous expression of the variety. The
wines from Rioja are joined serious and classical profile. It might even
only ‘problem’ with this wine is that the
by an earthy Monastrell need a little more time in bottle to polish the
estate’s ‘standard’ release is its equal.
from Alicante’s formidable 2016 tannins a little bit. This fermented mostly
Drink by 2040.
vintage and a ripe, textured Priorat destemmed. Drink date: 2020-2028.
Score: 96 (Campbell Mattinson,
blend of Cariñena and Garnacha. Score: 94 (Luis Gutiérrez, robertparker.com,
winecompanion.com.au, Aug. 1, 2018)
June 28, 2019)
RED WINE 12556 (XD) 750 mL $67.00
110239 (XD) 750 mL $79.00
ESTRECHO MONASTRELL 2016 PUJANZA FINCA VALDEPOLEO 2015 TWO HANDS ARES SHIRAZ 2015
DO Alicante DOCa Rioja Barossa Valley, South Australia
TASTING NOTE: The 2016 Estrecho was TASTING NOTE: The enveloping mulberry TASTING NOTE: A blend of fruit from three
cropped from a more unusual, cooler and and spice aromas on the nose are only the historic vineyards in three separate parts
wetter year. It’s produced with a very soft first of the wonders of this stunning red of Barossa, the 2015 Ares Shiraz is a
vinification in 2,000-liter oak vats and new Rioja, which has a great tannin structure that top-flight effort. Loaded with vanilla and
barriques. It was bottled after 15 months gives the medium-full-bodied palate both red currants on the nose, it’s a full-bodied,
in oak. This is a powerful vintage; the wine stature and excitement. Very long, fresh rich, velvety wine, perhaps a bit open-knit
has clout, power and concentration and a herbal finish of considerable complexity. for truly long-term cellaring but flashy and
little more rusticity (the textbook tree bark!) Drink or hold. attractive now and over the next decade
than the 2017 that I tasted together with Score: 95 (James Suckling, jamessuckling. or so. Fine notes of baking spices bring
this one. There are some dusty tannins and com, Aug. 2, 2018) complexity to the red fruits on the long,
an earthy, chalky sensation on the palate. crisp finish. Drink date: 2018-2030.
The 2017 feels more precise than this, but 10748 (D) 750 mL $32.00 Score: 96 (Joe Czerwinski, robertparker.
the only problem with this is showing it com, Aug. 31, 2018)
next to the 2017. Drink date: 2019-2025. MARCO ABELLA CLOS ABELLA 2013 64816 (XD) 750 mL $145.00
Score: 94 (Luis Gutiérrez, robertparker.com, DOCa Priorat
April 30, 2019)
TASTING NOTE: 70% Cariñena, 30%
544700 (XD) 750 mL $46.00 Garnacha. Deep, complex aromas of lovely,
developing, perfumed fruit, the palate has WHITE WINE
real drive and focus, with lovely persistent
OLIVIER RIVIÈRE
LAS VIÑAS DE EUSEBIO 2016 ripe blackberry fruit great structure,
DOCa Rioja delicious persistent finish with fantastic LEEUWIN ART SERIES
hints of liquorice and graphite. CHARDONNAY 2016
TASTING NOTE: The 2016 Las Viñas de Score: 97 (Decanter World Wine Awards, Margaret River, Western Australia
Eusebio is a blend of Tempranillo with 2018)
10% Graciano that has great finesse and TASTING NOTE: Straw-green in colour
complexity. It matured in a 1,600-liter oak 11335 (XD) 750 mL $89.00 and powerful from the outset. Pure, juicy
15 VINTAGESTHE CLASSICS COLLECTION • JANUARY 2020
pear, white peach, sparks of spice, cedar
wood and wood smoke. The flavours SOUTH ARGENTINA
trigger each other, the finish then a
powerful sling out and onwards. Its beauty
AFRICA Two single-vineyard
expressions of Argentina’s
A brace of stylish wines
is entirely worthy of admiration. Exactly signature grape and region.
that effortlessly reveal
where the power stops and the delicacy the quality revolution that has
starts is difficult to tell, though it seems to revitalized South Africa’s wine RED WINE
happen at some point, even if the wine’s industry in recent years.
insistence never lets up. The quality march
of Leeuwin Art Series Chardonnay is DOÑA PAULA ALLUVIA VINEYARD
RED WINE SELECCIÓN DE BODEGA MALBEC
relentless. Award-winning varietal at 2020 2016
Wine Companion Awards. Drink by 2032. Gualtallary, Tupungato, Uco Valley,
Score: 98 (Campbell Mattinson, TOKARA CABERNET SAUVIGNON Mendoza
winecompanion.com.au, Aug. 1, 2019) 2015
WO Stellenbosch TASTING NOTE: Until 2014, Selección de
619437 (XD) 750 mL $95.00 Bodega was a blend of the best barrels from
TASTING NOTE: Ludicrously cheap for a different vineyards. Alcohol levels hovered
wine of such quality, this cuvée of Cabernet around 15.5%, and the oak predominated.
Sauvignon with 9% Petit Verdot and 6% But times change, and as of 2015, it comes
NEW ZEALAND Merlot shows the brilliance of the 2015
vintage. Scented, refined and leafy, with
solely from the most calcareous sectors
of the Alluvia Vineyard in Gualtallary. This
From the North Island and cigar box and graphite notes and a core of vintage – from a very cold year in Mendoza,
the South Island, a pair of liquorice and blackcurrant. 2019-25. Selección de Bodega is an arrow of mineral
high-scoring Pinots that Score: 93 (Tim Atkin, MW, timatkin.com, and fruity flavors, with a tension of granular
offer a choice between the richly South Africa Special Report 2018) tannins very characteristic of limestone
textured and the ethereal.
13707 (XD) 750 mL $30.00 soils. This is a refreshing wine that is also
very dense and vertical.
RED WINE Score: 96 (Patricio Tapia,
WHITE WINE guiadescorchados.cl, 2019)
CRAGGY RANGE AROHA TE MUNA 75036 (XD) 750 mL $41.00
ROAD PINOT NOIR 2016
Te Muna Road Vineyard, Martinborough, GABRIËLSKLOOF ELODIE
North Island THE LANDSCAPE SERIES
CHENIN BLANC 2017 CATENA ZAPATA ADRIANNA
TASTING NOTE: Rich, concentrated, WO Swartland VINEYARD RIVER STONES MALBEC
2014
mouth-filling pinot noir in a ripe style
TASTING NOTE: Peter-Allan Finlayson Gualtallary, Tupungato, Uco Valley,
with dark-fleshed plum, dark berry, spicy Mendoza
heads to the Swartland to find the grapes
oak, liquorice, a hint of violet and subtle
for this stylish, flavoursome Chenin Blanc, TASTING NOTE: The 2014 Adrianna
Christmas cake and dried fruit characters.
working with two different sites. The result Vineyard River Stones is the second
A seductively-textured, almost sumptuous
is a very complete, harmonious wine with vintage of the Malbec from the stonier part
wine. Drink by 2025.
leesy richness partnered by taut, tangy of the Adrianna Vineyard in Gualtallary
Score: 96 (Bob Campbell, MW,
acidity and understated wood. Drink date: that is next to a dry river bed (the vineyard
bobcampbell.nz, July 30, 2018)
2020-2026. has 110 hectares that were planted in
374355 (D) 750 mL $105.00 Score: 94 (Tim Atkin, MW, timatkin.com, 1994). It fermented in open-top 500-liter
South Africa Special Report 2019) oak barrels with full clusters. It was
VILLA MARIA SEDDON VINEYARD 13704 (XD) 750 mL $43.00 pressed before the end of fermentation,
PINOT NOIR 2015 and it then finished fermenting without
Marlborough, South Island skins (like a white) and matured in
TASTING NOTE: Elegant, supple and quite 1,800-liter oak foudre for 18 months. It’s
charming pinot noir with floral, violet, red a compact, super serious Malbec with
cherry, anise, and a suggestion of fresh concentration and power, great balance,
herb flavours. A seamless wine, with an abundant tannins, strong minerality, firm
ethereal texture and impressively lingering texture, great austerity and no concessions
finish. Drink by 2023. for sweetness whatsoever. It has all that it
Score: 95 (Bob Campbell, MW, takes to develop for a long time in bottle.
therealreview.com, July 24, 2017) Score: 98 (Luis Gutiérrez, robertparker.com,
June 29, 2018)
11966 (XD) 750 mL $60.00
542845 (XD) 750 mL $148.00
16 VINTAGESTHE CLASSICS COLLECTION • JANUARY 2020
USA
dark chocolate and menthol with a core of
crème de cassis, cigar box and warm plums
Cellar-worthy Cabernets plus a waft of truffles. Full-bodied and
from Napa lead the way here, laden with generous black fruit preserves
with stunning offerings from and fragrant earth layers, it has a solid
Sonoma, Washington and Oregon foundation of firm, grainy tannins and
rounding out the collection. seamless freshness, finishing very long and
layered. Drink date: 2021-2050.
Score: 98 (Lisa Perrotti-Brown, MW,
CALIFORNIA robertparker.com, March 29, 2019)
478685 (D) 750 mL $300.00
RED WINE
RAYMOND DISTRICT COLLECTION
ANDERSON’S CONN VALLEY ESTATE RUTHERFORD CABERNET
RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON SAUVIGNON 2016
2016 Rutherford, Napa Valley
Napa Valley
TASTING NOTE: Aged for 20 months in
TASTING NOTE: Deep purple-black in 53% new French oak, the 2016 Cabernet
CHILE color, the 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon
Estate Reserve is a little closed to begin,
Sauvignon Rutherford District Collection is
deep garnet-purple colored with beautiful
A gorgeous example of Chile’s slowly revealing fresh blackberries,
signature Carmenère and a notes of kirsch, black and red currants,
blackcurrants and black plums notes with minted cherries and chocolate box with
bold illustration of Chile’s touches of eucalypt, cinnamon stick, roses
prowess with Syrah. touches of cedar chest and unsmoked
and fertile soil. Medium to full-bodied, the cigars. The palate is medium to full-bodied,
palate delivers mouth-filling black fruits firm and grainy with a lively line and a very
RED WINE with plenty of spicy accents and a pleasantly long, fruity, uplifting finish. 330 cases
chewy finish. Drink date: 2019-2034. produced. Drink date: 2021-2039.
Score: 94 (Lisa Perrotti-Brown, MW, Score: 94+ (Lisa Perrotti-Brown, MW,
ERRÁZURIZ KAI CARMENÈRE 2016
DO Aconcagua Valley robertparker.com, Oct. 29, 2018) robertparker.com, Oct. 29, 2018)
TASTING NOTE: Extravagant spice, herbal 521518 (XD) 750 mL $125.00 369280 (XD) 750 mL $96.00
liqueur, blue fruits and 100% bitter choco-
late on the nose. Stunning concentration and JOSEPH JEWELL GRIST VINEYARD
vitality with the richness coming through at ZINFANDEL 2016
the very long, linear finish. Drink or hold. Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County
Score: 97 (James Suckling, jamessuckling. TASTING NOTE: Aged in French oak,
com, Dec. 27, 2018) 25% of it new, this is a pretty, bright and
55863 (XD) 750 mL $147.00 impressive wine, brimming in beautiful
waves of strawberry and blackberry. The
inviting aromas and fresh acidity balance
POLKURA BLOCK G+I SYRAH 2016
out an undeniable power at the wine’s
DO Colchagua Valley
core, reined in by structured tannin.
TASTING NOTE: A wondrous syrah that Score: 93 (Virginie Boone, Wine Enthusiast,
shows earl-grey tea, crushed stones, iron, Sept. 1, 2019)
bark, cedar and pure violet extract. I love
13857 (XD) 750 mL $70.00
the sheer tannin power to this on the bold
and stunning palate, which creates a
surround-sound-like experience of fruit, KRUPP BROTHERS
packed up in layers of piercing acidity like M5 STAGECOACH VINEYARD
a Victoria sponge cake. Drink in 2024. CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2016
Score: 96 (James Suckling, jamessuckling. Napa Valley
com, April 5, 2019) TASTING NOTE: Deep garnet-purple in
12662 (D) 750 mL $54.00 color, the 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon M5
Stagecoach Vineyard slips effortlessly,
sensuously out of the glass with a gorgeous
perfume of baking spices, candied violets,
17 VINTAGESTHE CLASSICS COLLECTION • JANUARY 2020
WASHINGTON SHERRY
RED WINE VALDESPINO CARDENAL
PALO CORTADO VORS
JOLETÉ SUMMIT VIEW VINEYARD DO Jerez
CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2016 TASTING NOTE: The NV Palo Cortado
Walla Walla Valley Cardenal VORS, like the whole VORS
TASTING NOTE: Summit View, upslope collection from Valdespino is outstanding. It is
from Seven Hills Vineyard, puts up with fed from the solera of the Palo Cortado C.P.
plenty of wind. This cabernet seems to where the Palomino grapes come from the
capture that element in its impression of Macharnudo Alto vineyard, fermented in
wind-driven fruit – of purple flowers and American oak botas. It’s 22% alcohol and
dark purple skins, grippy and vinous. It has nine grams of (undetectable) residual
WHITE WINE feels fresh, focused and lean, the texture sugar which makes it very drinkable. It’s
dominated by invigorating tannins and a monumental wine of dark mahogany
HARTFORD COURT mouthwatering acid. Decant for lamb. color with a green edge, a complex, ever-
FOUR HEARTS VINEYARDS Score: 94 (wineandspirits.com, Oct. 2018) changing, concentrated, clean and delineated
CHARDONNAY 2017 nose of spices, dark chocolate, Cuban cigar
Russian River Valley, Sonoma County 13310 (XD) 750 mL $47.00 and balsamic notes of incense, and a sharp,
TASTING NOTE: The 2017 Hartford Court saline palate. It is highly concentrated,
Chardonnay Four Hearts Vineyard has a powerful and clean, with an eternal, lingering
aftertaste. Deciding between Coliseo and
FORTIFIED
drop-dead gorgeous floral nose with notes
of orange blossoms, honeysuckle and Cardenal might be splitting hairs, and as
WINE
jasmine with a core of preserved lemons, much as I love Coliseo, I felt Cardenal was just
candied ginger, peach cobbler and apple- one notch above. At the quality helm of Palo
sauce. Medium to full-bodied, it has a A fresh, elegant 20-year-old Grande Cortado. Drink date: 2013-2025.
racy line of freshness and a wonderfully Reserve Rivesaltes and the near- Score: 99 (Luis Gutiérrez, robertparker.com,
satiny texture, finishing long and citrusy. perfect Valdespino Cardenal Palo Aug. 28, 2013)
Drink date: 2019-2026. Cortado VORS. 571604 (XD) 375 mL $197.00
Score: 96 (Lisa Perrotti-Brown, MW,
robertparker.com, Oct. 29, 2018) RIVESALTES
95919 (XD) 750 mL $70.00
ARNAUD DE VILLENEUVE AMBRÉ
20-YEAR-OLD GRANDE RESERVE
OREGON RIVESALTES
AC
RED WINE TASTING NOTE: Sporting a vibrant sherry
color, the NV Rivesaltes Ambre 20 Ans
YOUNGBERG HILL NATASHA (Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris and
PINOT NOIR 2016 Macabeu) spent 20-25 years in a mix of
Williamette Valley concrete tanks, foudres and older barrels.
Made in a clean, fresh, elegant style, it
TASTING NOTE: A brightly detailed and offers classy notes of caramel, toasted
fresh, cherry-focused pinot with lithe, silky spice, candied orange and white raisins.
and seamless tannins that deliver a very This medium to full-bodied beauty will be
attractively fresh and juicy, cherry-soaked perfect as an aperitif paired with light
palate. Elegantly powerful and focused cheese or toasted nuts. I’d drink bottles
finish. Drink now. [Paul Gregutt of Wine over the coming decade, but as with all
Enthusiast gave this wine a rating of 92 of these fortified efforts, it will certainly
points, saying “Enjoy it now for its youthful keep longer. Drink date: 2017-2027.
exuberance, or give it up to a decade to Score: 90 (Jeb Dunnuck, robertparker.com,
develop further.”] April 28, 2017)
Score: 94 (James Suckling, jamessuckling.
com, Nov. 30, 2018) 546838 (S) 750 mL $46.00
12279 (XD) 750 mL $68.00
18 VINTAGES OPPOSITE: Hungarian vineyards basking in the summer sun.You can also read
