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BUYINGGUIDE
MARCH
2015
MATT WILSON
Bottles of Lapostolle’s
Clos Apalta, ready to hit
the market.
IN THIS MONTH’S GUIDE
2 CHILE 53 AUSTRALIA 81 CHAMPAGNE
22 CALIFORNIA 58 SOUTH AFRICA 82 LOIRE VALLEY
40 WASHINGTON 60 SOUTHERN ITALY 85 SOUTHWEST FRANCE
48 NEW YORK 66 PIEDMONT 89 SPIRITS
50 CANADA 70 AUSTRIA 91 BEERS
FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM
WINEMAG.COM | 1
BUYINGGUIDE
CHILE
and chocolate flavors. A dry, peppery finish shows
some unresolved oak, meaning this has more time
to mature. Drink through 2018. Fetzer Vineyards.
—M.S.
abv: NA Price: $50
Chile’s ongoing identity challenge
90 Echeverria 2010 Limited Edition Cabernet
Sauvignon (Central Valley). Hints of char
F
and green tobacco rest alongside spicy berry and
or several years now, Chile has been at a As in prior tastings of Chilean vino, Cab-
cherry aromas. This is juicy and crisp, which re-
crossroads with respect to how its high- ernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, Syrah and red flects 2010’s cool conditions. Flavors of currant,
end wines are perceived and received by blends lead our March lineup, with perenni- plum and spice, particularly pepper, finish toasty
those who drive the fine-wine market: con- al stalwarts like Lapostolle’s Clos Apalta (95 and with elegance. Drink now. Ararat Import/Ex-
sumers, retailers and especially sommeliers. points for the 2011), Santa Carolina’s Herencia port Co. LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $25
While Chilean wineries and winemakers Carmenère (94 points; 2010) and François Lur-
90
continue to put out many excellent wines, es- ton’s Alka Carmenère (94 points; 2011) at the Koyle 2012 Royale Los Lingues Vineyard
pecially red wines based on top of the chart. Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley).
Cabernet Sauvignon, Carme- Chile continues to do good Chunky, ripe blackberry and cassis aromas come
nère and Syrah, reticence among The bottom line: things in the midtier range as with baking spice scents. In the mouth, this feels
broad, jammy and tannic, but under control. Ripe
U.S.-based market makers to ac- Quality is there; so well, with half of this report’s flavors of baked blackberry and graphite finish full
cept Chile’s best wines as be-
is value. It’s just a 90+ recipients priced under $30. and creamy but with solid tannic framework. Drink
ing on par with similarly priced The bottom line: Quality through 2019. Quintessential Wines. —M.S.
Old World and domestic wines
matter of taking is there; so is value. It’s just a abv: 14.5% Price: $26
has had the Chilean wine indus- notice and redis- matter of taking notice and re-
try scratching its collective head
and asking the same question
covering all the discovering all the country has
90 Lapostolle 2012 Cuvée Alexandre Apalta
Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua
country has to offer. to offer. Valley). Big, bulky, ripe aromas of cassis and black-
over and over again: What can Elsewhere in this issue’s berry come with a hint of cedar and spice. This Cab
we do to get Americans to take Buying Guide, we review New shows a clampy, tannic mouthfeel and loamy, ultra-
our best wines more seriously? World selections from Australia, South Africa, ripe flavors of blackberry and cassis. Fudge, mocha
and blackberry flavors drive the finish on this ripe
Our best answer: Show them a spreadsheet California, Washington, New York and Canada,
wine from a hot vintage. Terlato Wines Interna-
of Wine Enthusiast’s current ratings and re- as well as Old World wines from Italy, Austria tional. —M.S.
views of 168 Chilean wines, where 30 wines, and France. And, as always, be sure to check out abv: 14.1% Price: $24
or about 18% of the field, earned scores of 90 our complete database, with thousands more
points or higher. (Not surprisingly, all but one
of these wines is red.)
reviews, at buyingguide.winemag.com.
Cheers! —Michael Schachner
90 Maquis 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colcha-
gua Valley). Ripe black-fruit aromas get a
boost from dark spice notes. Saturated, heavy and
deep in the mouth, this is a meaty wine with black-
berry flavors leading herb and leathery notes. On
the finish, this remains dark and driven by black
fruits and firm tannins. Drink through 2018. Global
oaky, spicy and peppery, with a toasty, slightly rooty Vineyard Importers. —M.S.
CABERNET SAUVIGNON finish. Drink through 2020. Elixir Wine Group. abv: 13.5% Price: $19
—M.S.
92 François Lurton 2011 Gran Araucano Cabernet
Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). Lightly herb-
abv: 14% Price: $33
90 Santa Carolina 2012 Reserva de Familia
Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Ripe,
al, spicy aromas of tobacco, forest floor, juniper and
pepper accent core blackberry, cassis and cherry
aromas. This Cabernet is tight and mildly tannic,
91 Cono Sur 2012 El Recurso Single Vineyard
Block N°18 Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Val-
ley). Pure on the nose, with a delightful mix of
almost candied aromas of berry fruits are offset
by creamy oak scents and a touch of olive. This is
chunky, weighty and trying hard to keep its form.
but not fierce or demanding. Ripe blackberry, cof- graphite, wild berry, cedar and minerally aromas, Flavors of roasted black fruits, chocolate and herbs
fee, mocha and vanilla flavors finish spicy, toasty this is a rich, plump, mildly tannic Cabernet that finish soft and low on structure. Drink this warm-
and oaky. Drink through 2020. Winesellers Ltd. will show best in the near term. Flavors of cassis, vintage, full-flavored Cab through 2017. Carolina
Editors’ Choice. —M.S. subdued oak spice and vanilla finish with ripe dark- Wine Brands USA. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $35 berry sweetness and proper overall weight. Drink abv: 14.5% Price: $20
through 2018. Vineyard Brands. —M.S.
92 Garage Wine Co. 2011 Lot #37 Maipo Alto
Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). This
abv: 14% Price: $32
90 Viña Bisquertt 2012 Ecos de Rulo Single
Vineyard El Chequén Estate Cabernet Sauvi-
small-lot Cab (350 cases) is classically Chilean at
all check points. The nose is spicy and full of cassis
and berry flavors along with tobacco, olive and mild
91 Viña Maipo 2010 Protegido Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Buin). Cassis, cherry and coconut aro-
mas are toasty and offer a minerally note. Lively and
gnon (Marchigue). For full review see page 12.
abv: 14.5% Price: $20
eucalyptus notes. A bright, lively palate is bolstered juicy across the palate, this Maipo Cabernet brings
by acidity, while plum and red-berry flavors are a typical Chilean mix of plum, currant, herb, spice
Continued on page 15
2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2015
The Wine Enthusiast
Buying Guide
The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release
and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine
Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular
contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director/Senior
Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Manag-
ing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Tasting Coordinator Alexander Peartree,
Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Mike
DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New
York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin
O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in Eng-
land; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt
96 Anton Bauer 2012 Reserve Limited Edition
Pinot Noir (Wagram-Donauland). Earthi-
ness, undergrowth and juicy wild strawberries 96 Williams Selyem 2012 Ferrington Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Just beauti-
Kettmann in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and
Sean Sullivan in Washington. tinged with wet oak leaf dominate the nose and pal- ful, this wine combines spicy, arresting aromas,
If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s ini- ate of this exemplary wine. It is exquisitely silky and vivid, bright cherry and raspberry flavors, an elec-
tials appear following the note. When no initials appear follow-
ing a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more review-
profound on the palate, with fleeting, gossamer tan- tric mouthfeel and bracing texture. All nerve and
ers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. nins. With time, ripe red-cherry notions appear. The muscle, and no fat, it is vibrant in acidity, with
Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by Kara Newman finish is complex and nuanced, with lovely earth, firm tannins that support the enticing fruit flavors.
and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo.
Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its spice and fruit sensations. Select Wines Inc. —A.K. Virtually irresistible now, this will gain complexity
suggested national retail price, its alcohol (abv) as reported to us abv: 14% Price: $50 through at least 2022. Cellar Selection. —J.G.
by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content abv: 13.9% Price: $65
cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices
are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated.
TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS
All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind.
Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8
samples. Reviewers may know general information about a flight
to provide context—vintage, variety or appellation—but never
the producer or retail price of any given selection. When possible,
products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted.
ABOUT THE SCORES
Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product.
Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying
tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics.
Classic 98–100:
Superb 94–97:
The pinnacle of quality.
A great achievement. 96 D’Arenberg 2010 The Swinging Malaysian
Single Vineyard Shiraz (McLaren Vale).
95
Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. D’Arenberg’s lineup of single-vineyard Shirazes is Avennia 2012 Arnaut Boushey Vineyard
Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended.
Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption;
especially impressive in the 2010 vintage, and this Syrah (Yakima Valley). This wine shines
often good value. was one of my favorites. The aromas are tight, near- with notes of smoked meat, mineral, dark coffee and
Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- ly impenetrable at first, then only stubbornly yield- earthy funk. The flavors are dense, rich and volup-
critical circumstances.
ing hints of graphite, but the mouthfeel is expansive tuous, while retaining an exquisite sense of balance.
Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 and richly textured. Aristocratic notes of pencil It’s an exclamation point of a wine that’s approach-
points) are not reviewed.
shavings balance supple tannins and layers of dark able now. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS fruit, concluding in espresso and chocolate on the abv: 14.8% Price: $50
Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent qual-
ity at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price finish. Drink now–2030. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C.
with unique qualities that merit special attention. abv: 13.8% Price: $85
Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible
and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to
reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation
does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but
that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In
general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated.
Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in
relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for
determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are gener-
ally priced at $15 or less.
SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW
Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing lo-
cation as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/
contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review
Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@wineenthusiast.
net. There is no charge for submitting products. We make
96
every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there Williams Selyem 2012 Allen Vineyard Pinot
95
is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or
that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be
Noir (Russian River Valley). A perennial Penfolds 2010 Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon
accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may standout for good reason, this Pinot is light in color (South Australia). Full-bodied and lushly
be downloaded from our Web site. and elusive at first. Teasing in baked strawberry- textured, this standout Cabernet showcases huge,
LABELS rhubarb, it subtly offers a rare purity of focused superripe fruit, lashings of creamy, vanilla-laden
Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given fruit flavor, with gorgeous aromas of dewy rose pet- oak and a long finish. It’s still embryonic in terms of
the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and
printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information als playing a substantial supporting role. Thanks to its development, but lovers of big New World Cab-
on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax subtle oak, the finish builds in terms of intensity, ernets will find it enjoyable already. Treasury Wine
866.896.8786; or email dvalenza@wineenthusiast.net. with the wine maintaining a delicate balance of Estates. Cellar Selection. —J.C.
Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at minerality. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $350
buyingguide.winemag.com abv: 14.1% Price: $82
WINEMAG.COM | 3
BUYINGGUIDE
94 H. Blin 2006 Millesime Brut (Champagne).
Crisp, tight acidity and still-young, fresh
95 Williams Selyem 2012 Calegari Vineyard Pi-
not Noir (Russian River Valley). The winery’s
second vintage from this site, Calegari is medium-
fruitiness give this wine its initial brightness. Rich
and full in the mouth, it also has a range of complex
fruit flavors followed by hints of toastiness that will
94 Malat 2013 Silberbichl Reserve Riesling
(Kremstal). Sleek, citric freshness is cou-
pled with a more generous, diffuse nature. The
weight, with structured oak and a silky palate. It’s a only continue to develop. It should be aged further, picture that results is focused and rich, with glints
ripe expression of anise and red cherry that’s juicy, so drink from 2016. Vinamericas Selections. Edi- of ripe Bosc pear, honeycomb and earth, all shot
spicy and complex, with pretty violet aromas. Edi- tors’ Choice. —R.V. through with exciting and zesty lemon rind. The fin-
tors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $69 ish is exquisitely clean. Circo Vino. —A.K.
abv: 14.1% Price: $55 abv: 13% Price: $39
94 Jada Vineyard & Winery 2012 Strayts (Paso
Robles). This Willow Creek winery hits a
95 Williams Selyem 2012 Eastside Road Neigh-
bors Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Since
this is the winery’s largest production Pinot, but
home run with this blend of 75% Merlot and 25%
Cabernet Sauvignon. Aromas of dried black cher-
ries, cola, soy sauce and balsamic reduction are
94 Tierra Roja 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Oakville). A 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
grown on the vintner’s estate, this wine is holding
still under 1,000 cases, buyers actually have a pleasing. The sipping experience is cohesive, with back some of its complexity now in lieu of aging po-
chance of finding this full-bodied beauty. Sly on the blackberry fruit, black pepper spice, plum skin tart- tential. Smoky oak, bay leaf, ripe raspberry, cherry
nose, it is tense in toasty oak and chewy cherry, ven- ness and an expert amount of tannins. —M.K. and cedar tones remain elusive and subtle on the
turing into black cherry, blackberry and root beer. abv: 15.9% Price: $48 palate. This is an elegant wine, vibrant in red fruit
It’s amply structured and robust, yet with silky tan- and light spice. Cellar it through 2022. Cellar Se-
nins. Enjoy through 2022. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. lection. —V.B.
abv: 13.7% Price: $52 abv: 14.8% Price: $140
94 Donelan 2012 Cuvée Christine Syrah (So- 94 Lexington 2011 Apex Gist Ranch Estate (San-
ta Cruz Mountains). This is the top bottling
noma County). This 100% Syrah comes
from four parcels of high-elevation sites across So-
noma, many of them otherwise single-vineyard des-
of Thomas Fogarty’s ambitious Bordeaux-aimed
brand, and it shows, with regionally distinctive
aromas of crushed rocks, blueberry, tar and smoke.
94 Travaglini 2008 Riserva (Gattinara). Earthy
fragrances of violet, tilled soil, leather,
menthol and spicy plum jump out of the glass. The
ignated by the winery. Here, the blending pays off in The intriguing palate is elegance defined, with sexy delicious palate boasts structure and finesse, seam-
refined, gamy, sanguine undertones that evolve in tannins and mineral-driven flavors of black dirt, lessly weaving together ripe wild cherry, crushed
the glass to meet mouthfilling black currant, fine- wet slate and squeezed blueberry. It makes for en- blackberry, juicy plum and baking spice alongside
grain leather and white pepper. An acidic lift on the lightening drinking now, but offers measured com- tightly knit but polished tannins. Drink 2016–2023.
finish balances the wine’s power. Editors’ Choice. ponents that will last until at least 2030. Cellar Palm Bay International. Editors’ Choice. —K.O.
—V.B. Selection. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $45
abv: 14.1% Price: $48 abv: 14.1% Price: $95
4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2015
94 Williams Selyem 2012 Burt Williams’ Morn-
ing Dew Ranch Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley).
The color of this wine is deep, with a bright ruby
93 Austin Hope 2012 Hope Family Vineyard
Syrah (Paso Robles). Aromas of lavender
and ripe dark fruit abound on the nose, while forest
93 Feudi di San Gregorio 2011 Privilegio (Irpin-
ia). Dried peach, nectarine zest, flint and
Mediterranean herb aromas characterize this stun-
rim. Effusive and enticing aromas of spicy cinna- floor and pine tar add nuance. The flavors are full ning dessert wine from Campania. On the palate,
mon, toasted oak and red cherry notes meld into of deep plum and black cherry, wrapped around an fresh acidity brightens layers of candied ginger and
black cherry and pomegranate flavors. The balance elegant butter-herb sauce quality. —M.K. lemon rind as well as honey and dried herb. Palm
is just right, the texture is snappy, appetizing and abv: 15.5% Price: $42 Bay International. —K.O.
rich at the same time and the finish lingers. Best abv: 12% Price: $63
after 2016. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.1% Price: $78
93 H. Blin 2009 Quintessence Meunier Blanc
de Noirs Extra Brut (Champagne). From its
93 Derby 2011 The Maneater Derby Vineyard
(Paso Robles). This blend of 58% Petite
Sirah and 42% Zinfandel provides a good example
base in the Marne Valley, Blin has access to the
best Pinot Meunier. This rare Champagne—100%
Pinot Meunier—has a richness and open fruitiness
94 Williams Selyem 2012 Foss Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley). Initially, this
wine is all about strawberry tart, with layers of car-
of a winery going over the top and succeeding. Aro-
mas recall blackberry-laced tea, dried rose petals
and Luxardo cherries. Cassis provides the center-
that impart ripe character, but with a tight, dry
edge. The lightest pink color, it’s not quite a rosé,
although it certainly has some raspberry flavors as
damom and white pepper as well as hints of blue- point of the flavor profile, with a backbone of ample well as orange zest and a tangy texture. Drink from
berry and blackberry on the back palate. Offering tannins and touch of tar. —M.K. 2016. Vinamericas Selections. —R.V.
high-toned fruit and acidity, it settles on the finish, abv: 15.3% Price: $30 abv: 12.5% Price: $85
becoming rich and full bodied in style, with final
notes of nutmeg, vanilla and chocolate. —V.B.
abv: 14.2% Price: $55
93 Dosio 2009 Fossati (Barolo). Fragrant berry,
blue flower, rose petal, baking spice and a 93 Jada Vineyard & Winery 2012 Hell’s Kitchen
(Paso Robles). Named after the New York
94 Yao Ming 2011 Family Reserve Cabernet Sau-
vignon (Napa Valley). As imposing as the
athlete himself, this is an impressive wine from the
balsamic note lead the nose on this sleek, struc-
tured wine. The palate doles out crunchy red-cher-
ry, juicy strawberry, clove, cinnamon and savory
City neighborhood where owner Jack Messina’s an-
cestors first immigrated, this blend of 55% Syrah,
27% Grenache, 17% Mourvèdre and a half-percent
get-go, high in acidity and the resulting bright cassis herb shadings alongside firm yet polished tannins each of Viognier and Roussanne hits the nose with
and red berry fruit. It’s nuanced in pretty ways, with and surprisingly fresh acidity for a hot vintage. It’s notes of violet, mocha, black cherry, slate and cof-
peppercorn, herb and chalky tannins. Lingering on loaded with finesse and already accessible. Drink fee. The tannins are mouthcoating, yet allow tart
the palate, the structure suggests significant aging through 2019. Atlas Imports. —K.O. flavors of cherry and boysenberry to pass through,
potential; enjoy from 2021–2024. Cellar Selection. abv: 14% Price: $75 boosted by smoke and licorice on the edges. Drink
—V.B. from 2018. Cellar Selection. —M.K.
abv: 14.9% Price: $625 abv: 15.5% Price: $54
WINEMAG.COM | 5
BUYINGGUIDE
93 Lagar de Bezana 2012 Edición Limitada Syrah
(Alto Cachapoal). Lagar de Bezana makes
some of Chile’s finest warm-climate Syrah. This ex-
93 Walla Walla Vintners 2012 Estate Syrah
(Walla Walla Valley). This thoroughly be-
guiling example of the variety comes from the win-
93 Yao Ming 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley). Well-made and dancing in acidity,
this Cabernet is juicy in notes of red currant and
ample, from a warm vintage to boot, opens with aro- ery’s young estate vineyard. It brings notes of Red pomegranate, yet slightly exotic on the back palate,
mas of pencil lead, raw oak, boysenberry and black Vines, raspberry, pepper, coffee and sweet barrel with hints of cardamom and cinnamon. Layered
currant. The palate is rock solid and impermeable at spice. The red plum flavors are plush, concentrated without being overly concentrated, the wine is built
this young stage, while flavors of toasty black fruits and hedonistic in style, with an extremely high yum to age like its bigger brother (the Family Reserve),
offer nuances of mint, espresso and herbs on the factor. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. able to hold on and build nuance through 2020.
lively finish. Drink through 2022. Vino Del Sol. Edi- abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Cellar Selection. —V.B.
tors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $150
abv: NA Price: $40
93 Marimar Estate 2012 Dobles Lías Don Miguel
Vineyard Unfiltered Chardonnay (Russian
93 Williams Selyem 2012 Peay Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Sonoma Coast). Located in the wilds
of Annapolis, the vineyard will be familiar to fans 92 Ballentine 2012 Estate Grown Merlot (Napa
Valley). This concentrated Merlot is blend-
River Valley). Not much of this wine is made and of extreme Sonoma Coast wines. This vintage will ed with smaller percentages of Petit Verdot, Caber-
that’s a shame. A celebration of richness and cream- be the winery’s last from the site, according to the net Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Syrah. Dense in
iness on the palate, the wine is given extended lees winery. Earthy cinnamon bark surrounds refined black licorice and toasty oak, the fruit character is
contact to contribute both texture and complexity. tannins and complex layers of high-toned cherry dominated by red plum and berry aromas and fla-
Marked by oaky caramel notes on the nose and pal- and raspberry before evocative dried herbs hit the vors. —V.B.
ate, the wine also shows minerality and freshness, palate. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $28
especially on the finish. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $59
abv: 14.2% Price: $45
93 Trinchero 2011 Cloud’s Nest Vineyard Caber-
net Sauvignon (Mount Veeder). Truffle and
93 Williams Selyem 2012 Weir Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Yorkville Highlands). This is deep and
ruby in hue, while the aromas are spicy, brightly
92 Château Peyros 2010 Vieilles Vignes (Madi-
ran). From vines at least 40 years old, this
concentrated wine is a blend of Tannat and Caber-
dirt arise aromatically from this wine, a structured oaky and reminiscent of red cherries. Ripe yet fresh net Franc. While the wood aging is still showing, the
and juicy offering of red and black berry, tobacco and tangy flavors recall cherries and raspberries, rich and dense fruit is pushing through strongly. It
and black tea. Lush and complex, the wine jumps while a vein of darker plum comes in and lingers has ample weight and ripe fruitiness. Drink from
from the glass and is a nice example of the beauty on the long finish. It’s serious and delightful at the 2018. Baron Francois Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
that can be coaxed from a challenging vintage. Edi- same time, and will age well; delicious now, but best abv: 14% Price: $18
tors’ Choice. —V.B. after 2016. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.2% Price: $70 abv: 13.8% Price: $58
6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2015
92 Etude 2012 Temblor Vineyard Grace Benoist
Ranch Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Carneros).
Estate owned, Temblor is a sloped vineyard influ-
92 Jada Vineyard & Winery 2012 WCS Jack John
(Paso Robles). This Willow Creek district
winery delivers a powerful blend of 71% Grenache,
92 Penley Estate 2012 Phoenix Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Coonawarra). Full bodied and richly
textured, this is an approachable wine that should
enced by the Petaluma Gap and its early-morning 19% Syrah, 9% Mourvèdre and 1% Viognier. It of- nonetheless drink well through at least 2025. Toast-
fog, planted to two types of Dijon clones. Oaky and fers aromas of black licorice, black cherry and el- ed coconut accents cassis and blackberry fruit, fold-
round, this wine offers a flavor of steeped red-berry derberry, with roasted meat in the background. It’s ing in hints of vanilla on the long, mouthwatering
cobbler, with rich layers of managed tannin and a very rich, bursting with flavors of blackberry and finish. Old Bridge Cellars. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
smoky finish. —V.B. balsamic vinegar that evolve toward creosote and abv: 14.5% Price: $20
abv: 14.3% Price: $60 tar, all wrapped up in silky tannins. —M.K.
abv: 15.2% Price: $75
92 Georges Vigouroux 2011 Château de Mercuès 92 Siduri 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). A
great deal for a Pinot of this quality, this
Grand Vin Seigneur Malbec (Cahors). Situ-
ated high on a rock overlooking the river Lot, Châ-
teau de Mercuès, now a luxury hotel, dates from the
92 L’Ecole No. 41 2013 Luminesce Seven Hills
Vineyard Estate Grown (Walla Walla Valley).
This standout blend of Sémillon (60%) and Sauvi-
features grapes from several vineyard designates,
including the Hirsch and Pratt-Sexton vineyards.
Burly plum and baked berry fruit rises to the fore,
13th century. The wine is as ripe and luxurious as gnon Blanc dazzles with notes of fig, pineapple, kiwi ably supported by layers of baking spice and a
the hotel. It is a dense, solid and structured Mal- and herbs. It’s richly flavored, with a creamy texture generous, seamless imprint of toasty oak. Editors’
bec, with its powerful tannins balanced by big, bold and a supremely long finish. —S.S. Choice. —V.B.
black fruits. It’s a classic wine for serious aging, so abv: 14.5% Price: $22 abv: 14.1% Price: $32
wait until 2018. Multiple U.S. importers. Editors’
Choice. —R.V.
abv: 14.5% Price: $25
92 Lucienne 2012 Lone Oak Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Santa Lucia Highlands). From the Hahn
family of wines comes this solid representation of
92 Stark-Condé 2011 Unfined and Unfiltered
Cabernet Sauvignon (Stellenbosch). This is
a layered, earthy selection, with upfront aromas of
92 Hendry 2010 Red (Napa Valley). There’s a
chocolaty nose to this wine, a blend of 33%
Malbec, 33% Petit Verdot, 16% Cabernet Sauvi-
the appellation, with dark cherry, wet slate and soft
mint on the nose. The mouthfeel is soft and com-
forting, with tight raspberry fruit and a clove-like
leather and cigar box complemented by fruity tones
of blackberry and cassis. The medium-weight pal-
ate is lush and velvety, and the tannins are fine yet
gnon, 9% Cabernet Franc and 9% Merlot. It offers spice note carrying through the entire sip, culmi- firmly structured. Boysenberry preserves and black
structured waves of cedar, cassis and pencil shav- nating in a mouthwatering black-pepper finish. pepper linger on the finish. Vineyard Brands. —L.B.
ings, with soft tannins. —V.B. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $27
abv: 14.2% Price: $38 abv: 14.5% Price: $50
WINEMAG.COM | 7
BUYINGGUIDE
92 Williams Selyem 2012 Coastlands Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). From a tremen-
91 Chilensis 2011 Lazuli (Maule Valley). This six-
grape blend is led by Cabernet Sauvignon.
Aromas of toasty, rooty berry fruits come with an 91 Hess Collection 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Mount Veeder). True to its advocacy for
dous coastal vineyard site, this Pinot is surprisingly essence of cola. The palate is layered and mellow, Malbec in the Napa Valley, the producer adds 15%
full bodied and soft, yet possessed of bolder, big- offering mild tannins. An oaky flavor profile in- Malbec to this Cabernet Sauvignon, forging a dark,
ger blue and black fruit and oak than many of the cludes coconut and vanilla, while the finish is spicy, rich and intense wine that’s generous in black fruit
winery’s other designated offerings. Black tea and mildly herbal and a touch chocolaty. Old Bridge Cel- and tobacco. It nonetheless retains ample acidity to
savory sandalwood pique the palate, the wine’s tex- lars. —M.S. stay balanced and rewarding on the palate. Enjoy
ture standing out for its silkiness. Enjoy through abv: 14% Price: $24 through 2020. Cellar Selection. —V.B.
2025. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $60
abv: 13.9% Price: $75
91 D’Arenberg 2011 The Custodian Grenache
(McLaren Vale). The 2011 vintage wasn’t an
91 Burbank Ranch 2012 Hidden Path Estate
Grown Malbec (Paso Robles). Aromas of
easy one in South Australia to say the least, which
makes this wine all the more admirable. Mouth-
watering, peppery, red-currant fruit remains firm
91 Lucienne 2012 Doctor’s Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Santa Lucia Highlands). Christmas spice,
roasted duck and pomegranate fruit aromas rise
cooked red cherry, blackberry liqueur and smoke and focused from start to finish, ending on a crisp from this high-end wine made by the Hahn family.
waft from the glass. Layers of flavor emerge once note. Drink now–2023. Old Bridge Cellars. Editors’ The acidity is not strong on the tip of the palate,
sipped—cassis, elderberry jam, cracked pepper, car- Choice. —J.C. but does tingle through the finish, with flavors of
damom and espresso—proving more approachable abv: 14.5% Price: $20 licorice and black raspberry. —M.K.
than heavily tannic versions of the grape. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $50
abv: 14.7% Price: $46
91 Chateau de l’Oiselinière 2007 Les Grands Gâts
Sur Lie (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine). As it ages,
91 Montes 2012 Alpha Syrah (Colchagua Val-
ley). Notes of graphite and saline surround
core cherry and cassis scents, while vanilla and wet
Muscadet becomes more like Chardonnay. Here, the
wine has developed ripe tropical fruit notes and a
smooth, creamy texture. The seven years of age has
91 Gordon Estate 2012 Tradition Red Wine (Co-
lumbia Valley). Half Syrah and half Cabernet
Sauvignon, with 40% new French oak, this wine
cement aromas fill out the bouquet. The palate is
broad yet balanced. Flavors of wild berry fruits,
chocolate and pepper finish well, with some mel-
softened the fruit and acidity, leaving a rich wine draws you in with its notes of blackberries, milk lowing after the wine’s ripe fruit character fades.
that is deliciously ready to drink now. Esprit du Vin. chocolate and anise. It’s broad and fleshy in feel, Guarachi Wine Partners. —M.S.
Editors’ Choice. —R.V. with abundant coffee and cherry flavors backed by abv: 14.5% Price: $22
abv: 12% Price: $21 ample acidity. —S.S.
abv: 13.8% Price: $45
8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2015
91 Neil Ellis 2011 Chardonnay (Elgin). This is lush
and toasty upfront, with supporting aromas
of honeydew, peach marmalade and yellow apple.
91 Sextant 2012 Kamal Cabernet Sauvignon
(Paso Robles). It’s not often that you see
Charbono in a Cabernet bottling, but it works. This
91 Viña Bisquertt 2012 Ecos de Rulo Single Vine-
yard El Chequén Estate Merlot (Marchigue).
Jammy aromas of crushed boysenberry and cassis
The palate offers ample acidity to lift the rich fruit wine boasts aromas of ripe cassis, red cherry and are rich and ripe. This is a direct, fruit-forward
flavors, while hints of sweet spice, apple skin and woody chocolate. The tannins are pronounced and Merlot with moderate but noticeable acidity and
toasted brioche unfold on the finish. Attractive and chalky, giving a full mouthfeel, with sharp flavors of a generous baked-blackberry flavor that finishes
well balanced; enjoy now. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. tart cherry and a strong acidity. —M.K. warm, toasty and with ample depth. Drink through
abv: 13.5% Price: $28 abv: 14.6% Price: $42 2017. Prestige Wine & Spirits Group. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $20
91 Nickel & Nickel 2012 Suscol Ranch Merlot
(Napa Valley). An herbal, 100% Merlot from
a nine-acre ranch in Jamieson Canyon, just south of
91 Standing Sun 2011 Syrah (Santa Barbara
County). This wine from the Fess Parker-
owned Rodney’s Vineyard shows inky purple color, 90 Borjón 2012 Reposado Barbera (Amador
County). Richness and ripeness combine
the town of Napa, this wine is steeped in sage, cin- offering slightly reductive aromas of tar and charred with a multilayered and tannic texture that frames
namon and dense, smoky leather. Soft tannins lend meat but also violets and black pepper. It’s full on the flavors, massages the palate and carries the
succulence and warmth, while the finish is marked the palate, hitting first with purple fruit and dried expressive fruit character through a lingering fin-
by notes of tobacco and toasted oak. —V.B. purple flowers before delivering plum-skin acidity ish. Ripe blackberries and raspberries accompany
abv: 14.2% Price: $60 and peppery spice. It’s an attention-grabber. —M.K. a subtle vein of spice and mineral flavors that add
abv: 15.1% Price: $28 complexity. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.3% Price: $24
91 ONX 2012 Praetorian (Paso Robles). This
blend of 55% Tempranillo, 22% Grenache,
91 Starmont 2012 Merlot (Carneros). From the
14% Mourvèdre, 8% Malbec and 1% Alicante Bous-
chet is a good example of the intriguing blends made
by this winery in the Templeton Gap area. An aro-
Napa side of Carneros, this Merlot is blended
with 1% Petit Verdot, which presumably has added
a smidgen of weight and color to the mix. Supersoft,
90 Canvasback 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red
Mountain). Coming from a who’s who of
Red Mountain vineyards, the inaugural release of
ma of smoked game combines with tightly wound the wine is well-rounded in ripe cherry and blue- this brand from Duckhorn Vineyards offers generous
graphite and purple fruit scents, followed by a pal- berry notes, with ample acidity, textured tannins notes of dark coffee, espresso bean, dark cherries,
ate that blends cured meats with dried herbs and and a strong finish that’s awash in mocha flavor. sage and vanilla, with a pleasing interplay between
blackberries. —M.K. —V.B. fruit and barrel (64% new French). The plum and
abv: 14.8% Price: $45 abv: 14.5% Price: $27 coffee flavors are restrained in style, with well-inte-
grated tannins. —S.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $40
WINEMAG.COM | 9
BUYINGGUIDE
90 Etude 2012 Ellenbach Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Sonoma Coast). The winery ventures up
north to extreme conditions along the Sonoma
90 Georges Vigouroux 2011 Château de Haute-
Serre Grand Vin Seigneur Malbec (Cahors).
Haute-Serre is high on the plateau above the Lot
90 Chambers Rosewood Vineyards NV Muscat
(Rutherglen). Like Chambers’ entry-level
Muscadelle, this Muscat offers an affordable intro-
Coast and a vineyard named for being as far as “hell
and back.” The wine is balanced between oak and
fruit, with mellow blue and red berry tones as well
river. It produces wines that are structured with
complex tannins and an austere fruit character.
This 2011 is in that mold. It has acidity as well as
duction to the Rutherglen style of sticky. The Mus- as a touch of wild herb. —V.B. juicy black fruits, plus striated tannins that are in
cat is full and round, with relatively simple notes of abv: 14.2% Price: $60 the process of being smoothed by the wood aging.
spiced orange and crème caramel and a finish that Drink from 2018. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V.
is sweet but balanced. Old Bridge Cellars. Editors’ abv: 15% Price: $25
Choice. —J.C.
abv: 18.5% Price: $16/375 ml
90 Flying Horse 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa
Valley). The producer adds a small percent-
age of Pinot Blanc to the wine to great effect, com-
bining seamlessly with the Sauvignon Blanc and 90 Gloria Ferrer 2012 Dijon Clone Selection
Pinot Noir (Carneros). This is an earthy,
90 Chateau de l’Oiselinière 2012 Les Illustres
Sur Lie (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine). Lightly
wood-aged, this is a smooth and ripe wine. A touch
resulting in notes of honeydew, green fig and subtle
herb. The blend offers layers that are both fresh and
fruity. —V.B.
chalky wine, medium bodied and silky in wild
strawberry, garden herb and fresh mint notes. From
estate-grown Pinot, it is a balanced, accessible se-
of toast rounds out the fresh fruit flavor of juicy abv: 14.5% Price: $25 lection to drink now. —V.B.
Golden Delicious apple. The wine is dry, crisp and abv: 14.5% Price: $50
fruity at the end, with bright acidity. Esprit du Vin.
Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 12% Price: $19
90 Fritz 2012 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley).
Oaky and full bodied, this conveys a strong
impression of big berry fruit. Spice and herbal com-
90 Concannon 2010 Conservancy Petite Sirah
(Livermore Valley). This is complex, deli-
ponents are underplayed, letting the fruit come
forth in all its glory. This is an attractive and ready-
to-drink wine. —V.B.
90 Gordon Estate 2013 Reserve Estate Grown
Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). A light
golden hue, this richly aromatic wine offers notes
cious, bold and tannic, bringing the big structure abv: 14.4% Price: $30 of toasty barrel spices, apricot and dried mango. It’s
that is expected without being heavy handed. It of- full bodied, almost unctuous in feel, with abundant,
fers concentrated blackberry and fig aromas, richly sweet stone-fruit flavors and a lingering finish.
jammy flavors that stay dry and a tannic but not —S.S.
tough texture. —J.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $28
abv: 14.2% Price: $16
10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 201590 Grgich Hills 2012 Violetta Late Harvest
(Napa Valley). Dark golden in color, with
a taste of caramel-toffee apple, this is the winery’s
90 Martin Ray 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).
New oak figures prominently on the palate
of this generous and ripe wine, an impression that’s
90 Ognissole 2012 Essentia Loci (Primitivo di
Manduria). Aromas of underbrush, leather,
black-skinned fruit and tobacco lead the nose. The
classically produced late-harvest blend of Sauvi- nicely offset by ample structure and juicy acidity. firm, structured palate offers mature blackberry,
gnon Blanc, Riesling and Gewürztraminer. Recalling It’s balanced and approachable, so enjoy now. —V.B. black cherry, coffee bean and licorice alongside a
toasted caramel corn, fig and orange, the aromas are abv: 14.1% Price: $35 tannic backbone. It closes on a mineral note. Palm
intense and the palate balanced. —V.B. Bay International. —K.O.
abv: 13.5% Price: $85/375 ml abv: 14.5% Price: $36
90 Montes 2012 Alpha Merlot (Colchagua
Valley). Blackberry and spice aromas are
90 Keller Estate 2012 La Cruz Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Sonoma Coast). This is a concen-
trated, lovely wine that offers a depth of red berry,
earthy, leathery and stalky. This is youthful and
tannic at this point, while oaky flavors of clove and
wood spice ride heavily atop blackberry and dark
90 Plantagenet 2013 Chardonnay (Great
Southern). Hints of smoke and white peach
mark the nose of this medium-bodied wine. It’s a
forest floor and herbes de Provence. All of the wine’s plum fruit. Oak notes and firm tannins indicate touch less expressive on the palate, but pleasant-
elements come together seamlessly on the palate. that this will be best from late 2015 through 2018. ly plump, with great focus and length on the fin-
Approachable now, but should also age well. —V.B. Guarachi Wine Partners. —M.S. ish. Drink now–2016. Old Bridge Cellars. Editors’
abv: 14.2% Price: $45 abv: 14.5% Price: $22 Choice. —J.C.
abv: 13.6% Price: $21
90 Oberon 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
County). Sourced from all over the Napa
90 Respite 2009 Reichel Vineyard Cabernet
90 Kunde 2011 Sweet Leslie Late Harvest White
Wine (Sonoma Valley). A late-harvest blend
of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Sémillon from
Valley, this wine blends 87% Cabernet Sauvignon
with 1% Syrah and other unnamed red varieties.
The effort works, resulting in a glass of concentrat-
Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). A partner-
ship between growers Corinne and Charles Reichel
and winemaking team Denis and May-Britt Malbec,
a good year for botrytis, this is dark gold in color. ed red cherry, herb and spice, the tannins tight yet this is a soft, round, oaked Cabernet Sauvignon
It offers sweet, lush and satisfying swaths of dried approachable enough for the wine to remain juicy. that’s blended with small amounts of Cabernet
apple and orange that linger on the palate, finished —V.B. Franc and Malbec. It dances in blackberry, tobacco
with a drop of honey. —V.B. abv: 13.7% Price: $25 and chocolate, still chewy on the back of the palate.
abv: 7.5% Price: $75/375 ml —V.B.
abv: 14.1% Price: $48
WINEMAG.COM | 11BUYINGGUIDE
90 Travaglini 2009 Gattinara. Made from
Nebbiolo aged in large casks, this garnet-
colored wine offers lovely fragrances of rose petal
90 Yao Ming 2011 Napa Crest Red Wine (Napa
Valley). Intended as an accessible start to
the Yao portfolio, this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon,
89 Ognissole 2011 Magnus Nero di Troia (Pug-
lia). The intriguing nose suggests blue
flower, scorched earth, smoke, spice and ripe dark
and woodland berry. The elegant palate doles out Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Merlot packs a fruit. The palate is subtle and reserved, revealing
crunchy red cherry, crushed raspberry, clove and mouthful of juicy cassis and blackberry layered with mature black cherry, ground black pepper and all-
mineral, alongside smooth, polished tannins. Fresh tobacco and tightly woven tannin. —V.B. spice alongside tightly knit, velvety tannins, with a
acidity adds vibrancy. Drink through 2019. Palm abv: 14.5% Price: $48 decadent licorice note on the finish. Palm Bay Inter-
Bay International. —K.O. national. —K.O.
abv: 13.5% Price: $29 abv: 13% Price: $36
89 Cono Sur 2013 20 Barrels Limited Edition El
Triángulo Estate Pinot Noir (Casablanca Val-
90 Trinchero 2011 Meritage Red Wine (Napa
Valley). This is a hearty Meritage employ-
ing all five red Bordeaux varieties. The color is black
ley). This meaty, fully toasted Pinot is dark in color
and smoky smelling. A lively, powerful palate boasts
a sense of elegance while offering up spicy, oaky
89 Ognissole 2013 Negroamaro (Salento). A
sleek, elegant expression of Negroamaro,
this opens with aromas of perfumed berry and ex-
and the fruit equally dark and rich, offering muscu- black raspberry and currant flavors. A long, spicy otic spice. The bright, juicy palate doles out ripe red
lar tannins around rich notes of blackberry, cedar finish stays strong while guarding the wine’s honest cherry, crushed raspberry, clove and white pepper
and herb. —V.B. varietal character. Vineyard Brands. —M.S. alongside a backbone of polished tannins and fresh
abv: 14.8% Price: $50 abv: 14% Price: $32 acidity. Palm Bay International. —K.O.
abv: 13.5% Price: $18
90 Viña Bisquertt 2012 Ecos de Rulo Single
Vineyard El Chequén Estate Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Marchigue). Tobacco, balsam wood and vanil-
89 Millbrook 2012 Proprietor’s Special Reserve
Cabernet Franc (Hudson River Region).
Raspberries and cherry blossoms mingle on the nose 89 Ognissole 2013 Primitivo di Manduria. An el-
egant expression of this grape, this smooth,
la aromas accent soft cassis and blackberry tones. of this pretty, perfumed wine. The palate is buoyant full-bodied wine delivers layers of spicy plum, juicy
In the mouth, this warm-vintage Cabernet is chewy with fresh berry and cherry flavors, yet touches of blackberry, graphite, clove and licorice. Firm but
and full. Cassis, blackberry, fresh tomato and spice forest floor and spice add complexity and depth. It’s velvety tannins provide ample texture and support.
flavors settle on a rich, brusque finish that’s pow- brisk in acidity and layered with fine, firm tannins. Palm Bay International. —K.O.
erful yet enjoyable. Enjoy the bold fruit expression Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $19
of this wine now. Prestige Wine & Spirits Group. abv: 13% Price: $30
—M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $20
12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 2015BEST BUYS BEST BUYS
88 Cantine Menhir 2011 Quota 31 Primitivo
(Salento). Aromas of ripe black fruit, spicy
plum, graphite and a whiff of brine lead the nose
of this robust wine. The round, savory palate doles
out juicy blackberry, blueberry, licorice and ground
90 Bonterra 2012 Made With Organic Grapes
Merlot (Mendocino County). On the big
and bold side, this has abundant fruit flavors sur-
90 North by Northwest 2012 NxNW Red Blend
(Columbia Valley). A blend of Syrah, Mer-
lot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, this
black pepper alongside brawny tannins. It ends on rounded by equally abundant lip-smacking tannins, wine shows intriguing notes of orange peel, plummy
a bitter prune note. Samandla Wine Imports. —K.O. great acidity and a long finish. Not very oaky, it has fruit, smoke and a barrel top note. It’s plush and
abv: 14% Price: $15 a vibrancy and fruit focus that is mouthwatering richly flavored, with a soft, luxurious feel. Best Buy.
and compelling. It’s tasty now, but will also improve —S.S.
through 2017. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $15
abv: 13.8% Price: $14
90 Korbel NV Chardonnay (California). This
could be considered a liquid dessert, with
89 Korbel NV Blanc de Noirs (California). This
wine has a pale orange color, apricot aro-
mas, and jazzy peach and citrus flavors that are live-
a rich gold color, abundant aromas of baked apple ly and fresh. It’s nearly dry (1.5% dosage), and done
86 Oakwild Ranch 2011 Pinot Noir (Russian
River Valley). Cinnamon-cola character-
izes this soft, rounded expression of subtle dark
and pear tart, and tasty vanilla and marzipan fla-
vors. But with 1% dosage it’s not overly sweet, just
very lush in texture, concentrated in flavor and long
in a sophisticated style, with fine-textured bubbles
and a clean finish. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 12% Price: $14
cherry and herb. It comes from a sloped vineyard in on the finish. Best Buy. —J.G.
the middle of the Russian River Valley near Olivet abv: 12.5% Price: $14
Lane, where moderate temperatures are impacted
by morning fog. Layers of toasty oak grace the fin-
ish. —V.B.
abv: 14.2% Price: $35
90 Korbel NV Brut Rosé (California). This has a
pale salmon color and aromas like those of
88 Alias 2012 Merlot (California). This is a good
go-to red to stock up on. Gobs of tasty fruit
flavors make it delicious. The texture is velvety, the
Pinot Noir, including the walk-in-the-forest smell. acid and tannin are balanced, and the body is lush
Crisp cherry flavors lead to an intriguing mushroom but not too full. Best Buy. —J.G.
note on the finish. Nearly dry, the texture is plush abv: 13.6% Price: $10
86 Uptick Vineyards 2011 Estate Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). Unctuous and earthy,
this medium-bodied wine is more about subtle and
and soothing, while the finish is soft and lingering.
Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 12% Price: $14
savory herb notes than deep fruit. With its light
fruit characteristics and bold spice elements, it will
make a versatile choice for the table. —V.B.
abv: 14.4% Price: $49
WINEMAG.COM | 13BUYINGGUIDE
BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS
87 McManis 2013 Jamie Lynn Vineyard Barbera
(California). Try this as an alternative to
88 Chateau de l’Oiselinière 2013 L’Oiseau d’Or
Sur Lie (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine). This is
Merlot or Pinot Noir. Well balanced and medium
bodied, it has light and appetizing cherry and straw-
a ripe, citrus- and honey-flavored wine, very dry
while softly textured. The fruit is rich, with a deli-
cious zesty aftertaste. The oiseau d’or (golden bird)
berry flavors and a smooth mouthfeel. Best Buy.
—J.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $11
86 Viña Requingua 2014 Puerto Viejo Estate
Bottled Single Vineyard Reserve Sauvignon
Blanc (Maule Valley). Green apple and lime aromas
is the symbol of Oiselinière castle. Esprit du Vin. are well presented and clean. This has a citrusy feel
Best Buy. —R.V. to go with lime, passion fruit and grapefruit flavors.
abv: 12% Price: $12 A mildly pithy and citric finish delivers plenty of
youthful kick. Puerto Viejo Wines. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13% Price: $10
87 McManis 2013 Syrah (California). This is a
medium-bodied, fruit-forward wine that’s
jammy, rich, bright and friendly. It smells fresh and
88 Chilcas 2011 Reserva Estate Bottled Caber-
net Sauvignon (Lolol Valley). Dusty rasp-
berry and plum aromas are spicy, dry and attractive,
grapy, with supporting raspberry and boysenberry
notes. It tastes equally ripe and generous, and feels
polished and soft in texture. Best Buy. —J.G.
leading to a fresh palate with kick. Flavors of spiced
plum, raspberry and red cherry are a touch briny,
while the finish has length and a pleasing texture.
abv: 13.5% Price: $10
85 Gnarly Head 2013 Pinot Grigio (California).
This pleasant fruit cocktail of a wine smells
like pears and peaches and tastes equally fruity, ripe
Old Bridge Cellars. Best Buy. —M.S. and smooth. It’s medium bodied and soft in texture,
abv: 14% Price: $12 yet fresh and clean on the finish. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13% Price: $10
87 Ironstone 2013 Petite Sirah (Lodi). This is a
gutsy wine, with firm tannins, making the
87 Viña Maipo 2012 Vitral Reserva Carmenère
(Rapel Valley). Plum, wild berry, a note of
grass and oak aromas carry the nose on this fresh
texture slightly astringent while tightly holding in Carmenère that delivers mild tannins and basic
the fruit and oak flavors. It needs rich food along- plum and berry flavors backed by woody notes.
side, or hold it until 2017 to mellow. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $12
Modest spice and pepper flavors are simple, making
this is a friendly type of red. Fetzer Vineyards. Best
Buy. —M.S.
85 Leaping Horse 2013 Merlot (California). In
this plush pillow of a wine, smoothness and
easy drinkability come along with medium body,
abv: 13.5% Price: $12 soft tannins, not too much crispness and just-ripe-
enough flavors. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $10
14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | MARCH 201590 Viña Casas Patronales 2010 Ñeque Cabernet
Sauvignon (Maule Valley). This dark-tinted
Cab shows aromas of blackberry, spice and olive
that disguises the wine’s gritty herbal and eucalyp-
tus elements. A choppy palate with tomatoey acid-
ity is a bit rough, while flavors of pepper and spice
with hard tannins. Spice, plum, vanilla and herbal
flavors carry the finish. Shaw-Ross International
Importers. —M.S.
along with some grit and herbal character. The pal- are as prominent as plum and wild berry. A raw, abv: 14% Price: $12
ate is jammy but propped up by juicy acidity. Herb- oaky finish is big but a touch hot in feel. Seaview
al-leaning flavors of blackberry, black plum and
cocoa finish fresh and snappy. Drink through 2017.
Vinecrest Importers. —M.S.
Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $21 86 Valle Secreto 2011 First Edition Cabernet
Sauvignon (Cachapoal Valley). Spicy, green
aromas suggest juniper bush more than clean ber-
abv: 14% Price: $50
88 Chilcas 2011 Reserva Estate Bottled Caber-
net Sauvignon (Lolol Valley). For full review
ry fruits. This is firm and condensed on the pal-
ate, with herbal, minty flavors of leathery, savory
89 Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) 2011
Los Vascos Grande Reserve Cabernet Sau-
vignon (Colchagua Valley). Spicy and stout on the
see page 14. Best Buy.
abv: 14% Price: $12
blackberry and eucalyptus. The finish is saucy and
herbal, with staunch acidity and hard tannins. AW-
Direct. —M.S.
nose, this delivers graphite, blackberry and cassis
aromas. The palate is young, choppy and tannic in 88 Concha y Toro 2012 Marques de Casa Con-
cha Cabernet Sauvignon (Puente Alto).
abv: 14.5% Price: $20
feel, with racy, raw flavors of ripe tomato and black-
berry accented by carob and chocolate. Dry tan-
nins on the finish support lightly baked berry fla-
Blackberry and cassis aromas are limited by a
grassy, green element on the nose. In the mouth,
this is loud, edgy and tannic. Flavors of saucy to-
86 Viña Tarapacá 2011 Gran Reserva Cabernet
Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Gritty aromas
of asphalt, green peppercorn, saucy berry and hard
vors. Drink through 2017. Pasternak Wine Imports. mato, stewed blackberry, coconut and vanilla finish spices precede a tight palate with grating tannins.
—M.S. ripe and full, but a little stewy. Overall this wine This is oak-heavy, with sweet-and-saucy red-berry
abv: 14% Price: $20 is strong and generous but shows some gaps in its flavors. An oaky, tomatoey finish is rubbery in feel.
composition. Excelsior Wines. —M.S. Tre Vigne Importers. —M.S.
89 Echeverria 2012 Family Reserva Cabernet
Sauvignon (Curicó Valley). Aromas of cheesy
abv: 14% Price: $26 abv: 14.5% Price: $18
oak, jammy berry and cassis are ripe and a touch
raisiny. A wide, full-bodied palate shows scratchy
tannins, while core flavors of blackberry and cas-
88 Cono Sur 2010 Silencio Cabernet Sauvignon
(Maipo Valley). This new Cabernet from
Cono Sur opens with a mix of cedar and berry aro-
85 Echeverria 2011 Family Reserva Cabernet
Sauvignon (Curicó Valley). Scratchy rasp-
berry aromas are low in depth and complexity. This
sis feature mild but present oak in front of a tannic mas. In the mouth, it’s super crisp and high in acid- has a drawing, clampy, tannic palate with tart plum
finish. Drink through 2020. Ararat Import/Export ity, which creates astringency and adds sourness to and berry flavors. Lightly salty, herbal notes accent
Co. LLC. —M.S. the wine’s herbal plum core. It’s punchy and almost raw red-fruit flavors on the finish. Ararat Import/
abv: 14.5% Price: $19 citric on the finish. Vineyard Brands. —M.S. Export Co. LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $175 abv: 13.5% Price: $19
89 Echeverria 2011 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon
(Curicó Valley). Spicy, dry and showing cas-
sis and berry aromas, this is a textbook Chilean 87 Echeverria 2012 Propuesta Cabernet Sau-
vignon (Central Valley). Roasted, balsamic 83 EBGB 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Central Val-
ley). Jammy raspberry aromas lack focus;
Cabernet. A tight, tannic palate stops short of grat- aromas suggest tomato, coffee grinds and a pinch the bouquet is also jammy and lacking in structure
ing, while spicy berry and toast flavors offer a touch of herbal green in addition to standard berry and and tannins. Flavors of raspberry Kool-Aid are de-
of oaky mocha. The finish is mild and echoes with cassis notes. Pulsing acidity creates a lively, dancing void of oak and spice contributions, while the finish
the flavors that came before it. Ararat Import/Ex- mouthfeel. Flavors of herbal plum and light cherry more like juice than wine. Pat Paulsen Vineyards.
port Co. LLC. Best Buy.—M.S. finish scratchy and edgy, with a mild chocolate fla- —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $13 vor. Ararat Import/Export Co. LLC. Best Buy.—M.S. abv: 13% Price: $14
abv: 13.5% Price: $10
89 Ochagavia 2012 Raíces Nobles Cabernet
Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Plump, slightly
stewy aromas of blackberry and cassis are just shy 87 J. Bouchon 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Maule
Valley). Loamy, wide and jammy on the nose,
CABERNET FRANC
of fresh. This hot-vintage, beefy Cab is bulky and
low on acidity, but friendly and easygoing. Fla-
vors of jammy, baked blackberry fold in chocolaty
with a note of raisin, this smells very ripe. In the
mouth, it’s more wiry and tartaric, but with an oaky
creaminess that softens things up. Typical Chilean
91 Garage Wine Co. 2011 Lot #36 Maipo Alto
Cabernet Franc (Maipo Valley). Initial woody
aromas evolve in the glass to show perfume, raisiny
richness in front of a slightly syrupy finish. Drink Cab flavors of berry, cassis and herbs finish chunky ripeness and spice notes. In the mouth, this deliv-
through 2017. Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S. and full. Vine Connections. —M.S. ers a crunchy, tannic feel and vibrant acidity. Plum,
abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.7% Price: $20 raspberry, baking spice and earthy flavors end with
oaky vanilla notes offset by baked berry, cassis and
89 Rios de Chile 2009 Gran Reserva Cabernet
Sauvignon (Cachapoal Valley). Mellow
balsamic-like aromas of herbal berry fruits, tobac-
87 Siegel 2011 Crucero Reserva Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Colchagua Valley). Blackberry, olive
and a touch of juniper rank as herbal but solid. In
rooty flavors. Drink through 2020. Elixir Wine
Group. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $33
co and vanilla lead to a juicy, easy-flowing palate. the mouth, this is round and thick, with good struc-
Flavors of licorice and anise accent blackberry and
currant, with tobacco and vanilla notes providing
support. A lightly spiced finish is fresh and medium
ture. Oak and spice flavors accent blackberry fruit,
while the finish deals baked plum, fig and herbal
notes. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S.
90 Maquis 2011 Cabernet Franc (Colchagua
Valley). A dark, cedary nose pumps out
volumes of baked plum and blackberry aromas. A
in length. W. Direct. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $13 beefy, full-bodied palate is fiercely tannic, while
abv: 14% Price: $28 black cherry, dark plum and blackberry flavors are
88 Caliterra 2012 Tributo Single Vineyard Cab-
ernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). Black
86 San Pedro 2011 Castillo de Molina Reserva
Cabernet Sauvignon (Central Valley). Spicy
plum and olive aromas get this tannic, wiry Cab go-
more fruity than herbal or spicy. The finish is gritty
due to drilling tannins, so wait this out a bit and
cherry and plum aromas are covered in creamy oak ing. It also offers mild green notes on the nose along
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