FINE WINE & PREMIUM SPIRITS JULY & AUGUST 2021 - Vintage Assessments.com
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FINE WINE & PREMIUM SPIRITS
JULY & AUGUST 2021
1 VINTAGES
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Classics Collection
The Vintages Classics Collection puts the world’s finest wines and spirits into your cellar. From Burgundy
grands crus to sky-high single-vineyard Argentine expressions and everything in between, the Classics
Collection offers an exciting assortment of the best, most iconic, most collectible wines from top regions,
stellar vintages, legendary producers and more. Whether you’re a neophyte or a seasoned collector,
these curated selections are sure to satisfy.
July 2021 August 2021
4 FRANCE 22 FRANCE
8 AUSTRIA 26 AUSTRIA
9 GERMANY 26 GERMANY
9 HUNGARY 26 ITALY
9 ITALY 29 PORTUGAL
12 PORTUGAL 29 SPAIN
13 SPAIN 30 AUSTRALIA
13 CANADA 30 NEW ZEALAND
14 AUSTRALIA 31 SOUTH AFRICA
14 NEW ZEALAND 31 ARGENTINA
15 SOUTH AFRICA 32 CHILE
15 ARGENTINA 33 USA
16 CHILE 35 DESSERT WINE
17 USA 35 FORTIFIED WINE
20 DESSERT WINE
20 FORTIFIED WINE 41 PRODUCT SUMMARY
46 ORDERING INFORMATION
36 PRODUCT SUMMARY
46 ORDERING INFORMATION
ORDER ONLINE AT PLEASE NOTE:
LCBO.COM/VINTAGES-CLASSICS For each Classics Collection, we do our best
to secure enough stock to satisfy all customer
July Collection: starts July 8 at 8:30 a.m. orders. We regret that sometimes customer
August Collection: starts August 5 at 8:30 a.m. demand exceeds supply. Opening inventory for
See page 46 for ordering details. each Classics Collection will be available at lcbo.
com/vintages-classics one week before online
First-come, first-served. Shop early for best selection. ordering begins.
Prices in this catalogue are subject to change without notice. Vintages cannot assume
responsibility for typographical errors. All prices include applicable container deposit and HST.
2 VINTAGES OPPOSITE: A medieval town atop rolling hills of vines in Piedmont.
ON THE COVER: Ruins and vineyards in the heart of Saint-Émilion.
ONLINE ORDERING
STARTS JULY 8
JULY
CLASSICS COLLECTION
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • JULY 2021
FRANCE CHÂTEAU LYNCH-BAGES 2005
5e cru, AC Pauillac BURGUNDY
A bounty of exciting options
for the collector including an
TASTING NOTE: Textbook, with CÔTE DE NUITS
mouthfilling and slightly gutsy black
assortment from Burgundy’s currant, fig and blackberry fruit flavors
RED WINE
exceptional 2018 vintage and bound together by singed cedar, iron
the 1996 Dom Pérignon P2 Rosé and tobacco notes. Features a tug of AMAURY AUX PERDRIX
Champagne. loam followed by a second wave of fruit NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES
through the finish. This is just starting to 1ER CRU 2017
stretch out. Blind ’01/’03/’05 Bordeaux AC
BORDEAUX retrospective (December 2017). Best TASTING NOTE: Firm reduction presently
from 2020 through 2040. renders the nose impossible to assess.
RED WINE Score: 96 (James Molesworth, The sleek and relatively fine medium
winespectator.com, 2018) weight flavors possess a lovely mouth
CHÂTEAU CANTEMERLE 2015 21003 (XD) 750 mL $500.00 feel and fine richness before terminating
5e cru, AC Haut-Médoc in a spicy finish that is akin to mentho-
TASTING NOTE: Impressive richness lated cherry cough drop. This is really
DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER 2010 quite good and the pliant supporting
and clarity of red and dark berries. Grand Cru Classé de Graves,
Lightly spiced-pastry aromas, too. The tannins should permit this to be
AC Pessac-Léognan
palate has a very crisp, polished and approached with pleasure in its youth.
groomed tannin texture, as well as super TASTING NOTE: Dark fruit, such as Drink date: 2024+.
fresh flavors that carry long. Great wine. raspberries and blueberries with subtle Score: 90-92 (Allen Meadows,
Try from 2022. perfume on the nose. Full-bodied with burghound.com, Oct. 15, 2018)
Score: 95 (jamessuckling.com, Feb. 2, super well integrated tannins and a fresh
610113 (XD) 750 mL $153.00
2018) and clean finish. Racy young wine. Shows
classy structure and richness. Try in
470724 (XD) 750 mL $90.00 2018. DANIEL RION & FILS LES GRANDES
Score: 96 (jamessuckling.com, Feb. 2, VIGNES NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES
2013) 2018
CHÂTEAU DE CHAMBRUN 2014
AC
AC Lalande-de-Pomerol 495622 (XD) 750 mL $216.00
Frequently found on the menus of the
TASTING NOTE: Lots of berries and
most prestigious restaurants of France
chocolate on the nose. Full body, chewy MONDOT BY TROPLONG and Europe, the wines of this family-
tannins and a tangy finish. Polished MONDOT 2016 owned estate have built a solid reputation
tannins. Needs two or three years to Second wine of Troplong Mondot, since Daniel Rion began his endeavour
come completely together. AC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé
with just two hectares of vines in 1955.
Score: 91 (jamessuckling.com, Feb. 13,
TASTING NOTE: The second wine of Fruit for this wine was destemmed prior
2017)
Troplong Mondot and 100% Merlot, the to fermentation, which took place in
20166 (XD) 750 mL $48.00 2016 Mondot reveals a deep, saturated temperature-controlled stainless steel to
purple color as well as a rocking nose give the fruit its fullest expression.
of black cherries, graphite, chocolate, and
CHÂTEAU LAGRANGE 2010 227793 (XD) 750 mL $70.00
3e cru, AC Saint-Julien scorched earth. Ripe, deep, and sexy,
with sweet tannins, it’s a rocking entry-
TASTING NOTE: Loads of tension and level wine to drink over the coming
form. It can be cellared for decades, 10-15 years. Maturity: 2019-2034.
but it’s balanced and beautiful already. Score: 94 (Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.
Lots of blueberry, licorice and blackberry com, Feb. 28, 2019)
character. Try in 2018.
Score: 96 (jamessuckling.com, July 22, 20179 (XD) 750 mL $89.00
2014)
20167 (XD) 750 mL $148.00
4 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • JULY 2021
DOMAINE MICHEL GROS
CLOS DES RÉAS VOSNE-ROMANÉE
CÔTE DE BEAUNE DOMAINE CHANSON PÈRE & FILS
CLOS DES FÈVES MONOPOLE
1ER CRU 2016 RED WINE BEAUNE 1ER CRU 2018
AC AC
TASTING NOTE: The 2016 Vosne BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS TASTING NOTE: A masterful success that
Romanee 1er Cru Clos des Reas has one LE CLOS DE LA MOUSSE BEAUNE exudes a pervasive fragrance of candied
of the most ebullient and vivacious 1ER CRU 2017 orange peel. Lovely maturity, with highly
bouquets from Michel Gros this year with AC supple tannins and the texture of a
red cherries, wild strawberries and a TASTING NOTE: Fruity, showing grip, “taffeta” wine. Full-bodied, racy and highly
touch of blood orange in the mix. The this red offers currant, cherry, stony elegant, with a captivating scent, very
palate is very well balanced with fine mineral and spice flavors. Offers a chalky silky and long on the palate. A major wine
tannin, crisp acidity, plentiful tart red fruit feel, with a stone hint on the somewhat from the 2018 vintage. 3 hearts. Coup
with a fine structure that does not austere finish. Best from 2021 through de Coeur.
dominate toward the finish. Excellent. 2035. Score: 100 (La Revue du Vin de France,
Drink date: 2021-2035. Score: 92 (Bruce Sanderson, Nov. 2020)
Score: 90-92 (Neal Martin, robertparker. winespectator.com, April 30, 2020) 528034 (XD) 750 mL $140.00
com, Dec. 29, 2017)
124669 (XD) 750 mL $99.00
20472 (XD) 750 mL $223.00
WHITE WINE
CHANDON DE BRIAILLES
JEAN-CLAUDE BOISSET LES CORTON-BRESSANDES
MUROTS GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU 2017 BACHELET-RAMONET LA GRANDE
2016 AC MONTAGNE CHASSAGNE-
AC MONTRACHET 1ER CRU 2018
TASTING NOTE: Very perfumed and AC
TASTING NOTE: Beautifully balanced, spicy, this red evokes incense,
exhibiting cherry, strawberry, floral sandalwood, rose and wild berry aromas La Grande Montagne is situated in the
and mineral flavors. Elegant and taut, and flavors. The compact frame and most southerly reaches of Chassagne-
with terrific length and a touch of oak dense structure reveal grip on the finish Montrachet’s limestone hills. This wine is
spice on the finish. Best from 2022 for now, but the aftertaste extends aged between 14 and 16 months and
through 2038. with berry, green olive and spice notes. offers the area’s classic power and
Score: 94 (Bruce Sanderson, Best from 2023 through 2042. elegance, with apple, lemon citrus and a
winespectator.com, April 30, 2019) Score: 95 (Bruce Sanderson, touch of saline minerality. This succulent,
winespectator.com, May 31, 2020) well-defined wine will be superb with
18988 (XD) 750 mL $83.00 seafood dishes.
20442 (XD) 750 mL $250.00
19706 (XD) 750 mL $105.00
BOURGOGNE HAUTES- DOMAINE CHANDON
BERNARD MILLOT
CÔTES DE NUITS DE BRIAILLES AUX FOURNEAUX
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 2018
SAVIGNY-LÈS-BEAUNE 2018
RED WINE AC AC
TASTING NOTE: Aromas of rose petals, The Chardonnays of Puligny-Montrachet
DOMAINE MICHEL GROS dark chocolate and loamy soil marry with are among the finest, most concentrated
BOURGOGNE HAUTES-CÔTES rich, plummy fruit, introducing the 2018 expressions of this noble grape. Sourced
DE NUITS 2018 from limestone-rich soils, these wines
Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Fourneaux, a
AC evoke green apple, lemon, peach and
medium to full-bodied, fleshy and
The 2018 is a blend of two parcels gourmand wine built around powdery mineral notes and reflect a characteristic
and offers quite a sensual, perfumed tannins and succulent acids. This honeyed tone. Finely textured and lively,
bouquet. It’s finely textured and balanced, confirms its fine showing in barrel, and they make excellent pairings for meals
with good concentration and notes of the ripeness of the vintage means that such as grilled seafood, or veal and
succulent, ripe, fresh red cherry, crushed it’s quite approachable out of the gates. mushrooms.
strawberry, spice and warm earth. Ideal Drink date: 2020-2040. 19709 (XD) 750 mL $110.00
for mid-term cellaring. Enjoy now through Score: 91 (William Kelley, robertparker.
2026+. com, Jan. 14, 2021)
20471 (XD) 750 mL $45.00 20443 (XD) 750 mL $69.00
5 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • JULY 2021
DECELLE-VILLA MEURSAULT 2018 EDOUARD DELAUNAY LE VILLAGE honey, and an undertone of iodine.
AC MEURSAULT 2018 Classic Chablis. Drinking window:
AC 2019-2028.
This wine is sourced from a plot
close to the Charmes, Perrières and TASTING NOTE: Shining with mango, Score: 94 (Tim Atkin, MW, decanter.com,
Genevrières premier-cru sites. It has the apricot and peach aromatics punctuated Oct. 19, 2018)
distinct toasted almond and honey by caramel and clove oak spice and a 20382 (XD) 750 mL $68.00
tones that define young Meursault, fleshy, creamy complexity.
alongside white flowers, peach, pear and Score: 92 (Decanter World Wine Awards,
mineral. A wine for grilled lobster. 2020) LA CHABLISIENNE
LES CLOS CHABLIS
20656 (XD) 750 mL $100.00 20383 (XD) 750 mL $100.00 GRAND CRU 2017
AC
DOMAINE VINCENT GIRARDIN MARCHAND-TAWSE MEURSAULT TASTING NOTE: Unwinding in the
VIEILLES VIGNES MEURSAULT 2017 2018 glass with aromas of waxy lemon rind,
AC AC mandarin, dried white flowers, fresh
TASTING NOTE: The 2017 ‘Vieilles Vignes’ TASTING NOTE: An equally ripe and pastry and a subtle top note of petrol,
Meursault is a gorgeous showing from fresh nose offers up notes of toasted the 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is
Vincent Girardin. As this slowly unwinds hazelnut, acacia blossom and ripe pear. full-bodied, ample and layered, with a
in the glass it begins to deliver beautiful The much sleeker and more intense deep and concentrated core, lively acids
aromas of white peaches, vanilla medium weight flavors flash evident and a saline finish. This, too, is very
blossoms, lemon custard, tropical fruits, minerality on the bone-dry, citrusy and reserved, but it’s undeniably a promising
key lime, honeysuckle and green almond sneaky long finish. This is lovely and very Les Clos. Drink date: 2023-2037.
nuances. On the palate this possesses a refreshing plus it should reward mid-term Score: 93+ (William Kelley, robertparker.
fabulous texture, with wonderful overall cellaring. Drink date: 2025+. Outstanding. com, Aug. 30, 2019)
balance, combining pure fruit and bright Score: 89-91 (Allen Meadows, 20381 (XD) 750 mL $78.00
acidity leading up to the delicious, burghound.com, June 10, 2020)
mineral-infused finish. While this is 285866 (XD) 750 mL $85.00 LA CHABLISIENNE MONTMAINS
absolutely stunning today it also has the
CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2018
potential to last well over a decade in AC
the cellar. Drink date: 2020-2032. CHABLIS TASTING NOTE: There is fine Chablis
Score: 93 (internationalwinereport.com,
Jan. 2020) WHITE WINE character and plenty mineral reduction to
the pear, citrus and tidal pool-scented
20378 (XD) 750 mL $88.00 nose. In the same vein as the Vaillons,
DOMAINE GÉRARD TREMBLAY
BEAUROY CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2019 there is impressive richness to the solidly
DOMAINE VINCENT LATOUR AC intense medium-bodied flavors that offer
LES GRANDS CHARRONS good salinity on the equally clean and
MEURSAULT 2018 Gérard Tremblay, his wife, Hélène, and dry if borderline rustic finale. This isn’t
AC their son Vincent oversee a domaine quite as refined as the Les Lys but there
that has been in the family for five is slightly better power and depth.
TASTING NOTE: Here the nose is generations. All of their wine is made
completely clean and really quite pretty Drink: 2025+.
from their own fruit, with 35 hectares Score: 89-92 (Allen Meadows,
with its layered combination of various of vines under production. Expect a
white orchard fruit aromas that are burghound.com, Oct. 10, 2019)
crisp, clean wine etched by the venerable,
nuanced by hints of citrus peel, floral and limestone-rich Kimmeridgian soils 265090 (XD) 750 mL $46.00
roasted nut. The sleek and intense of Beauroy.
middle weight flavors flash less minerality
though a bit more complexity on the 18401 (XD) 750 mL $44.00 ROLAND LAVANTUREUX VAUPRIN
CHABLIS 2018
attractively textured and beautifully
AC
lingering finale. This too should be quite DOMAINE VRIGNAUD
good with a few years of aging. Drink: CÔTE DE FONTENAY FOURCHAUME TASTING NOTE: The 2018 Chablis
2025+. Outstanding. CHABLIS 1ER CRU 2017 Vauprin comes from 1.7ha of 25-year-old
Score: 89-91 (Allen Meadows, AC vines and is raised for 12 months in
burghound.com, June 10, 2020) TASTING NOTE: Guillaume Vrignaud’s top 50% oak barrels and 50% stainless
wine comes from the Côte de Fontenay steel. It has a very harmonious bouquet
20423 (XD) 750 mL $94.00
– a sub-appellation within the larger of yellow flowers, mirabelle, crushed
Fourchaume premier cru. It has old-vine rocks and light hazelnut aromas that
concentration with notes of gunflint and attain impressive intensity with aeration.
6 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • JULY 2021
The palate is very well balanced with a
fine bead of acidity; there is real tension
GABRIEL MEFFRE LAURUS
HERMITAGE 2017 CHAMPAGNE
and race here. The finish fans out AP
wonderfully and its persistence deserves TASTING NOTE: Fresh apple and DOM PÉRIGNON P2 ROSÉ
applause considering the relatively pineapple flavors are swathed in honey CHAMPAGNE 1996
unknown location of this vineyard. Highly and cream in this soft but freshly AC
recommended. Drinking window: balanced dry white. Made from 100%
2021-2035. TASTING NOTE: Dom Pérignon’s 1996
Marsanne fermented and aged in barrel,
Score: 93 (Neal Martin, vinous.com, Rosé P2 is rich, vertical and explosive,
it’s a rich, lavish wine that lingers on
Sept. 2020) with that combination of structure and
notes of vanilla, honeysuckle and sweet
inner perfume that makes it so alluring
485219 (XD) 750 mL $45.00 spice. Stunning in its youth but should
and so flat-out delicious. Drinking
gain complexity for decades. Editors’
window: 2019-2036.
Choice.
Score: 98 (Antonio Galloni, vinous.com,
MÂCONNAIS Score: 94 (Anna Lee C. Iijima, Wine
Feb. 2020)
Enthusiast, Dec. 31, 2020)
WHITE WINE 507897 (XD) 750 mL $2,056.00
594655 (XD) 750 mL $80.00
CHÂTEAU FUISSÉ TÊTE DE CUVÉE FORGET-BRIMONT 1ER CRU BRUT
POUILLY-FUISSÉ 2018 SOUTHERN RHÔNE CHAMPAGNE 2008
AC AC
RED WINE
TASTING NOTE: There is just enough TASTING NOTE: With 10 years’ aging on
wood present to warrant mentioning the lees, this wine is now approaching
framing the ripe and elegant aromas of PATRICK LESEC CUVÉE BARGETON
CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2018 peak perfection. A blend of half-and-half
mostly white orchard fruit and acacia Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, it shows a
blossom. The pure, delicious and AC
classic balance between rich structure
generously proportioned medium-bodied TASTING NOTE: Sourced mainly from an and a mineral texture. This wine is ready
flavors possess very good verve on the old-vine (mainly Grenache) parcel in the to drink.
notably saline, clean and dry finish. Cristia lieu-dit (sandy soils), Lesec’s 2018 Score: 93 (Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast,
Drink: 2023+. Chateauneuf du Pape Bargeton was Dec. 31, 2019)
Score: 90 (Allen Meadows, burghound. made using all whole clusters. Delicate
com, Nov. 10, 2020) notes of roses, garrigue, cherries and 19996 (XD) 750 mL $98.00
12957 (XD) 750 mL $45.00 subtle dried spices mingle easily on the
nose of this full-bodied but delicate, JOSEPH PERRIER CUVÉE ROYALE
filigreed wine. It’s hugely complex and full BRUT CHAMPAGNE 2008
RHÔNE flavored, without any excess weight or
richness. It should be a beauty. Drink
AC
TASTING NOTE: The latest vintage
date: 2020-2030.
NORTHERN RHÔNE Score: 95-97 (Joe Czerwinski,
release from this producer based in
WHITE WINE Châlons-en-Champagne is very much in
robertparker.com, Sept. 30, 2019)
the house style with its crisp acidity and
154476 (XD) 750 mL $79.00 tight texture. It is towards the dry end
GABRIEL MEFFRE LAURUS of Brut with apple and citrus flavors and
CONDRIEU 2017 little sign yet of aging. Although this
AP
ALSACE textured wine is ready to drink, it will be
better from 2018. Cellar Selection.
TASTING NOTE: Lavish layers of vanilla,
cinnamon and honeysuckle accent this WHITE WINE Score: 93 (Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast,
ripe, gycerol sip. Flavors of yellow apple Dec. 1, 2017)
and white grapefruit are plush and DOMAINES SCHLUMBERGER 18172 (XD) 750 mL $105.00
mouthfilling but balanced by a spry SAERING RIESLING 2017
mineral lift and a hint of bitters on the AC Alsace Grand Cru
finish. Hedonistic and ready to drink, it
TASTING NOTE: Cinnamon, white pepper,
should serve well through 2030.
green paprika, green apples and citrus.
Score: 93 (Anna Lee C. Iijima, Wine
Medium-bodied and very taut and citrusy
Enthusiast, July 1, 2020)
on the palate, this trades in bright acidity
193599 (XD) 750 mL $80.00 and steely apple crunch. Drink now.
Score: 93 (jamessuckling.com, Aug. 12,
2019)
627950 (D) 750 mL $37.00
7 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • JULY 2021
KRUG BRUT CHAMPAGNE 2006
AC
VEUVE CLICQUOT LA GRANDE DAME
BRUT CHAMPAGNE 2008 LANGUEDOC
AC RED WINE
TASTING NOTE: As I reported when it
was released, Krug’s 2006 Brut is clearly TASTING NOTE: A classic, slow-maturing
one of the vintage’s highlights. Offering year picked into October. It’s a pale,
GÉRARD BERTRAND LA FORGE 2018
up aromas of dried fruits, pear, freshly pristine hue – a beautifully assembled AC Corbières-Boutenac
baked bread, caramelized apples, mix of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from
honeycomb and toasted sourdough, it’s Aÿ, Ambonnay, Bouzy, Verzy, Verzenay and TASTING NOTE: Bertrand’s homage to
full-bodied, deep and layered, with Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, combining saline- his father, the 2018 Corbieres Boutenac
superb concentration, racy acids and an wrapped orchard fruits with great Pinot la Forge comes from the family’s Château
impressively tightly wound profile for Noir subtlety yet strength. THE aperitif de Villemajou. A selection of old-vine
this demonstrative vintage. I observed Champagne, but also try with sea trout. Carignan and Syrah, all aged in new
last year that this is surprisingly reserved Drinking window: 2020-2030. French oak, it boasts wonderfully
for the vintage, and if anything, that Score: 97 (Michael Edwards, decanter. expressive raspberry and herbal-tea
quality is even more in evidence today. com, Feb. 17, 2019) aromas. It’s full-bodied, expansive and
While many 2006 Champagnes are likely perhaps just a bit warm on the palate at
38802 (XD) 750 mL $250.00 15% alcohol, so be sure not to serve it
to be at their best in their demonstrative
youth, this is one wine unquestionably at too warm a temperature. Cola, mocha
built for the long haul. Drink date: VILMART & CIE GRAND CELLIER and cedar notes show up on the softly
2020-2045. 1ER CRU BRUT CHAMPAGNE tannic finish, but not as major players,
Score: 97 (William Kelley, robertparker. AC just as accents to the intense raspberry
com, Sept. 17, 2020) TASTING NOTE: This wine emphasizes fruit. Drink date: 2020-2026.
the white-flower scents of chardonnay Score: 93 (Joe Czerwinski, robertparker.
68395 (XD) 750 mL $459.00 com, June 30, 2020)
(70 percent of the blend, the balance
pinot noir). The wine’s searing acidity 15658 (XD) 750 mL $75.00
LE MESNIL BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS wasn’t softened by malolactic ferme-
GRAND CRU CHAMPAGNE 2005 ntation, and its fleshy apple and pear
AC flavors were concentrated and enriched
This 100% Chardonnay comes from a
Champagne co-op founded in 1937
by ageing for eight months in large oak
casks prior to bottling. Brian Long of
AUSTRIA
A precisely assembled,
and is sourced from 32-year-old vines NYC’s Ai Fiori drew a parallel between
concentrated, evocative
planted in chalk soils. The parcels were the wine’s “laser-like” malic acidity and
Grüner Veltliner.
vinified separately in stainless-steel vats the bright acidity of a young Mosel
and tirage was in 2006. The result is a Riesling. The fine mousse calms that
tight wine with considerable drive and acidity a bit, and age will build up the WHITE WINE
finesse and notes of orange zest, brioche flavors to surround it. A Champagne for
and bread, with a touch of honey on cellaring. (Disgorged 1/17.) PICHLER-KRUTZLER RIED
the close. Score: 94 (wineandspiritsmagazine.com, KLOSTERSATZ GRÜNER VELTLINER
Dec. 2018) 2019
460840 (XD) 750 mL $85.00 DAC Wachau
65110 (XD) 750 mL $94.00
TASTING NOTE: The nose is a perfect
RUINART BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS mix of creaminess, yeasty savor, citrus
CHAMPAGNE and Mirabelle, still edged with slight
AC
reductive smokiness. The palate is
TASTING NOTE: Steeped apricot and immensely juicy, concentrated and zesty.
candied ginger flavors are an aromatic There is flow and drive on the toned but
entry for this graceful Champagne, full-fruited body, always tingling with
backed by finely cut acidity and layered citrus and saltiness.
with accents of kumquat, toast point and Score: 94 (Anne Krebiehl, MW, Wine
salted Marcona almond. It’s fresh and Enthusiast, Sept. 1, 2020)
racy, yet there’s an effortless quality to
20672 (D) 750 mL $35.00
the integration that makes this hard to
stop sipping. Long, minerally finish. Drink
now through 2027.
Score: 93 (Alison Napjus, winespectator.
com, Dec. 15, 2020)
62984 (XD) 750 mL $133.00
8 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • JULY 2021
GERMANY HUNGARY
Exquisite Riesling from Pamper your palate with
two historic producers. this classically styled 5 Puttonyos
Wines that will grace your Tokaji Aszu.
cellar for decades.
WHITE WINE
MOSEL DISZNÓKO 5 PUTTONYOS
WHITE WINE TOKAJI ASZU 2011
Tokaj
TASTING NOTE: Tasted at the Disznóko
DR. LOOSEN ÜRZIGER vertical in London, the 2011 Tokaji Aszu
WÜRZGARTEN ALTE REBEN GG 5 Puttonyos is 100% Furmint (Aszu
RIESLING TROCKEN 2019
Qualitätswein grapes). It has an expressive and focused
bouquet, spice and dried honey, white
TASTING NOTE: This is an extrovert flowers and candle wax. The palate is
Mosel GG with a ton of spice and classic in style and actually almost
berry aromas that are just beginning to Sauternes-like. It is certainly very well
open up. At once succulent and elegant balanced and minerally, gently caressing
on the palate, it manages to be complex the mouth with a linear finish that lingers and round, verging on oily, while
and easy to understand, the finish very nice. There is a little nuttiness here and remaining wonderfully poised and
long and pure. Drink or hold. a pleasing salinity coming through with finessed throughout. There’s almost a
Score: 96 (jamessuckling.com, Nov. 23, continued aeration. This is lovely in a feeling of vibration on the palate, as
2020) more understated Tokaji style. Drink date: notes of ripe green apple with a hint of
633610 (D) 750 mL $40.00 2018 [to 2033+]. tropical citrus and savory spices amass in
Score: 92 (Neal Martin, robertparker.com, the mouth and linger long. The sheer
Oct. 28, 2016) density of fruit, along with balanced
RHEINGAU 18981 (S) 500 mL $68.00
acids, make the 2018 a perfect
contender to cellar, but it is showing
WHITE WINE beautifully today. Drinking window:
2020-2032.
Score: 93 (Eric Guido, vinous.com,
SCHLOSS JOHANNISBERG Sept. 2020)
GRÜNLACK RIESLING SPÄTLESE
2020 ITALY
From north to south, the power,
98129 (XD) 750 mL $30.00
Single vineyard, VDP Grosse Lage,
Prädikatswein elegance and sophistication
Schloss Johannisberg has been crafting
of Italian red and white wines is on
full display, including top-flight
PIEDMONT
only Riesling wines since 1720. The
2015 and 2016 Barolo. RED WINE
wines of this historic producer are
exemplary Rheingau expressions. This
one reveals a reliable elegant structure,
with generous purity and freshness to MARCHE ANDREA OBERTO ROCCHE
DELL’ANNUNZIATA BAROLO 2015
the fruit and a distinct saline minerality. DOCG
WHITE WINE
A wine that will effortlessly grace your TASTING NOTE: Complex aromas of
cellar for another 25-30 years, if not plums, cedar, dried flowers and leather
more. GAROFOLI PODIUM VERDICCHIO follow through to a full body, chewy
DEI CASTELLI DI JESI CLASSICO tannins and a long, flavorful finish. Needs
523332 (S) 750 mL $65.00 SUPERIORE 2018
DOC three or four years to come around.
Try in 2023.
TASTING NOTE: The 2018 Verdicchio dei Score: 95 (jamessuckling.com, Nov. 7,
Castelli di Jesi Podium is spicy and wildly 2019)
fresh, wafting up with zests of lemon and
lime, followed by dusty yellow flowers 19233 (XD) 750 mL $78.00
and white smoke. Its textures are velvety
9 VINTAGES
THE CLASSICS COLLECTION • JULY 2021
ARNALDO RIVERA RAVERA BAROLO ripe Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry,
2015 licorice and crushed mint alongside
DOCG taut, refined tannins. Fresh acidity keeps
TASTING NOTE: A more savory, slightly it impeccably balanced. Drink date:
tarry, coal-smoke nose. Overall, a 2022-2032.
handsomely ripe Barolo that has a wealth Score: 95 (Kerin O’Keefe, Wine
of darker fruit aromas and flavors with a Enthusiast, Oct. 1, 2020)
firm but stylishly balanced palate. Long, 539247 (XD) 750 mL $63.00
rich cherries abound and there’s an
enduring sense of balance here.
Impressive power and focus. Try from RIZZI PAJORE BARBARESCO 2017
2022. DOCG
Score: 96 (jamessuckling.com, Sept. 3, TASTING NOTE: Wild rose, forest berry
2020) and camphor aromas mingle with star
18847 (XD) 750 mL $105.00 anise on this fragrant, full-bodied red.
Combining structure and finesse, the
delicious palate doles out ripe Marasca
CORDERO DI MONTEZEMOLO VIGNA
ENRICO VI BAROLO 2016
cherry, orange zest and licorice alongside
firm, polished tannins. A fantastic wine. SICILY
DOCG Drink date: 2023-2032. Editors’ Choice. RED WINE
TASTING NOTE: Extremely perfumed with Score: 96 (Kerin O’Keefe, Wine
chocolate, walnuts, hazelnuts and dried Enthusiast, Oct. 1, 2020)
strawberries. Roses, too. Hints of AL-CANTÀRA O’SCURU O’SCURU
16743 (XD) 750 mL $63.00 2017
chocolate. Full and complex with a
DOC Etna Rosso
gorgeous palate that’s full of flavor and
structure. Better after 2024. VIRNA SARMASSA BAROLO 2015 TASTING NOTE: 100% Nerello
Score: 97 (jamessuckling.com, Dec. 21, DOCG Mascalese. Enticing wild berry fruit
2020) TASTING NOTE: A very solid young aroma, with a gentle spice infusion, and
Barolo with tar, stone, aniseed and ground coffee note. Poised palate,
22020 (XD) 750 mL $136.00
ripe-fruit character. Full-bodied, tight with fine tannins and lifted peppery red
and integrated and a long, long finish. berry flavours.
MAURO SEBASTE CERRETTA Shows precision and focus. Better Score: 95 (Decanter World Wine Awards,
BAROLO 2016 in 2023. 2020)
DOCG Score: 94 (jamessuckling.com, Nov. 7, 19631 (XD) 750 mL $47.00
TASTING NOTE: The spices and dried 2019)
citrus highlight the red fruit here. It’s 19057 (XD) 750 mL $108.00
full-bodied with firm, nicely integrated WHITE WINE
tannins that follow through to ripe red
fruit and dried-flower, walnut and light
stem undertones. Try after 2023. SARDINIA AL-CANTÀRA OCCHI DI CIUMI 2019
DOC Etna Bianco
Score: 94 (jamessuckling.com, Aug. 17, RED WINE
2020) Al-Cantàra is one of Sicily’s most
awarded wineries. This blend of
19056 (XD) 750 mL $75.00 Carricante and Grecanico is sourced
AGRICOLA PUNICA MONTESSU 2017
IGT Isola dei Nuraghi from vines between 16 and 80 years
RIZZI NERVO BARBARESCO 2017 of age and offers impressive lemon
TASTING NOTE: I love the glazed cherries citrus, Mediterranean herb, and a pure
DOCG and roasted herbs here, in addition to saline minerality.
TASTING NOTE: Rose, violet and dried plums and licorice. Full-bodied and
perfumed berry aromas lead the nose very sophisticated on the palate, where 19630 (XD) 750 mL $33.00
followed by whiffs of camphor and juicy and structured tannins frame the
culinary spice. Full bodied, supremely red fruit and acidity, carrying it long on
elegant and surprisingly fresh for the the finish. Drink now [to 2024+].
hot vintage, the savory palate delivers Score: 93 (jamessuckling.com, Nov. 7,
2019)
632380 (XD) 750 mL $30.00
10 VINTAGESTHE CLASSICS COLLECTION • JULY 2021
TUSCANY DUEMANI SUISASSI SYRAH 2016
IGT Toscana
SAN GIUSTO A RENTENNANO
CHIANTI CLASSICO 2018
RED WINE TASTING NOTE: Wow. This shows DOCG
amazing aromas of foie gras, game, TASTING NOTE: The 2018 Chianti
CANALICCHIO DI SOPRA RISERVA pepper and spice with the dark fruit. Full Classico is a textbook expression from
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2012 body and soft, juicy tannins that form the the appellation. This Sangiovese-based
DOCG wild and exotic, syrah character in the wine shows latitude and depth with
aftertaste. Love this. From biodynamically elegant aromas of wild berry, forest floor,
TASTING NOTE: A ripe, macerated grown grapes. Demeter-certified. Drink dried blueberry, honey, lavender and
version, displaying plum, cherry, tobacco, now or hold. rosemary essence. There are hints of
earth and spice flavors. A beam of Score: 99 (jamessuckling.com, Dec. 17, chalk or crushed limestone that recall the
lively acidity in the middle elevates this. 2018) unique soils of the Gaiole in Chianti
Ends with elegance, supporting tannins growing region. The tannins are elegantly
and fine length. Best from 2022 250803 (XD) 750 mL $236.00
integrated, and the wine offers enough
through 2036. natural freshness to pair with a hearty
Score: 96 (Bruce Sanderson, FONTODI VIGNA DEL SORBO pappardelle al sugo di cinghiale. Drink
winespectator.com, June 30, 2018) GRAN SELEZIONE CHIANTI date: 2020-2030.
18844 (XD) 750 mL $223.00 CLASSICO 2017 Score: 93 (Monica Larner, robertparker.
DOCG com, Aug. 31, 2020)
TASTING NOTE: The 2017 Chianti 19955 (XD) 750 mL $34.00
CARPINETO MOLIN VECCHIO 2012
IGT Toscana Classico Gran Selezione Vigna del Sorbo
is a dense, packed wine. It is also
TASTING NOTE: This red exudes black surprisingly, almost shockingly backward. SAN GIUSTO A RENTENNANO
currant, mint and wild herb flavors, That is probably a good thing for its LE BARÒNCOLE RISERVA CHIANTI
matched to a framework of dense, beefy long-term aging prospects. Readers CLASSICO 2017
tannins. The bouquet is particularly hoping to get an early glimpse into the DOCG
alluring, but it’s unclear whether this has 2017 before it shuts down may have a TASTING NOTE: The 2017 Chianti
the ripe fruit to outlast its tannic clout. hard time doing that, as today acids and Classico Riserva Le Baròncole is a
I wouldn’t wait too much longer. tannin dominate. I expect the 2017 beautiful wine that delivers elegance and
Sangiovese. Drink now through 2028. will be stellar in another 4-5 years and grace despite the difficult conditions of
Score: 93 (Bruce Sanderson, drink well to age 25-30 if not longer. the growing season that saw drought
winespectator.com, Sept. 30, 2020) Proprietor Giovanni Manetti gave the and hot summer temperatures. The wine
995308 (XD) 750 mL $60.00 2017 18 months in barrique followed by shows depth and concentration with
6 months in cask. Drinking window: black fruit, crushed flowers, charred meat
2027-2042. and potting soil. There is some phenolic
DONATELLA CINELLI COLOMBINI Score: 96+ (Antonio Galloni, vinous.com, bitterness here (probably due to the lack
RISERVA BRUNELLO DI Sept. 2020) of moisture in the soils); however, the
MONTALCINO 2013 late-ripening Sangiovese grape performs
DOCG 963827 (XD) 750 mL $101.00
nicely overall, thanks to those last few
TASTING NOTE: The 2013 Brunello di cooler weeks on the vine before harvest.
Montalcino Riserva (with only 6,500 LA FORNACE BRUNELLO DI That final phase of ripening has helped
bottles made) is a layered and structured MONTALCINO 2015 to solidify the wine’s aromatic intensity.
wine that delivers a polar opposite DOCG Luca Martini di Cigala has carefully
experience especially when you compare TASTING NOTE: This is a plusher style crafted an impressive wine in this vintage.
this wine to the lighthearted annata of Brunello 2015 with dried cloves, Drink date: 2020-2040.
2014 Brunello. This riserva embodies cinnamon, mocha, coffee beans and dark Score: 94 (Monica Larner, robertparker.
power, grit and textural richness. It also cherries. Hints of jam. Full-bodied, chewy com, Aug. 31, 2020)
delivers a robust and slightly evolved and very spicy; the ripe-cassis flavors 19956 (XD) 750 mL $56.00
bouquet with dark fruit, spice and leather. wash the palate out with unrelenting
In comparison, the wine from 2014 is decadence. Drink from 2026.
thinner and more fruit forward. This wine Score: 94 (jamessuckling.com, Sept. 20, SAN GIUSTO A RENTENNANO
is suited for grilled meats and steak. 2020) PERCARLO 2016
It’s a hearty winter wine for sure. Drink IGT Toscana
date: 2020-2035. 372532 (XD) 750 mL $74.00
TASTING NOTE: The 2016 Percarlo
Score: 94 (Monica Larner, robertparker. captures all of the beauty it has always
com, Jan. 31, 2019) shown in the cellar. Pliant, silky and
107508 (XD) 750 mL $147.00 exceptionally polished, the 2016 simply
11 VINTAGESTHE CLASSICS COLLECTION • JULY 2021
has it all. Freshly cut flowers, rose petal,
mint, spice and blood orange add striking PORTUGAL
aromatic nuance to a core of brilliant Two old-vine field-blend
Sangiovese fruit. Powerful and ample, expressions built for the cellar.
with superb aromatic lift, the 2016
Percarlo is exceptionally beautiful and RED WINE
moving from the very first taste. A whole
range of floral and mineral notes extend
QUINTA DA FERRADOSA VINHAS
the finish effortless. The tannins need VELHAS TINTO 2016
time to soften, so readers should plan on Sustainable, DOC Douro
at least a few years of cellaring. In a
word: compelling. Drinking window: TASTING NOTE: Passed from one historic
2023-2045. Douro family to another, this quinta is
Score: 99 (Antonio Galloni, vinous.com, now in the hands of Joaquim Calem. Old
Aug. 2019) vines from a field-blend vineyard have
gone into this dense and solid wine.
19957 (XD) 750 mL $98.00 Blackberry and damson fruit flavors
VENETO contrast with the dark tannic core and
SELVAPIANA BUCERCHIALE the wood-aging flavors. This is a fine
RED WINE
RISERVA CHIANTI RÙFINA 2016 wine that will need further aging. Drink
DOCG from 2021. Cellar Selection.
PRÀ MORANDINA AMARONE DELLA Score: 94 (Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast,
TASTING NOTE: Loaded with personality,
VALPOLICELLA 2013 July 1, 2020)
this opens with aromas of forest floor, DOCG
new leather, camphor and ripe black- 20873 (XD) 750 mL $66.00
skinned fruit. The palate boasts an earthy TASTING NOTE: The Prà 2013 Amarone
elegance reminiscent of top Burgundies, della Valpolicella Morandina is a dense VINHO DE TALHA ASTRONAUTA
showcasing ripe black cherry, crushed and thickly extracted expression that TINTO 2016
raspberry, truffle, star anise and a hint of offers black fruit, dried prune, spice, DOC Alentejo
salted game. Firm, fine-grained tannins leather, tar and tobacco all rolled (Aníbal José Coutinho)
provide support while fresh acidity keeps together into a single, powerful delivery.
TASTING NOTE: The 2016 Astronauta
it balanced. Drink date: 2022-2036. The wine peels back thick layers to
Vinho de Talha is a field blend, mostly
Editors’ Choice. reveal a full-bodied style with just enough
old-vines (80 years) Moreto aged in
Score: 96 (Kerin O’Keefe, Wine fresh acidity to keep it from feeling too
clay amphorae. The winery describes the
Enthusiast, April 1, 2021) rich or heavy. Pair this wine with
process this way: “Total skin and stems
barbecued baby back ribs. Drink date:
645218 (XD) 750 mL $44.00 fermented and clay aged. Sealed inside
2019-2030.
with resin and honey wax, protected on
Score: 93 (Monica Larner, robertparker.
top with olive oil, Roman style. [It spent]
com, Sept. 30, 2019)
UMBRIA 267880 (D) 750 mL $112.00
six months on the amphora, 18 months
on steel.” It comes in at 14.5% alcohol.
RED WINE This is beautiful on all fronts. It has velvet
for texture, serious tannins and dried
WHITE WINE
strawberry/cherry flavors on the finish.
GORETTI SAGRANTINO DI There’s a touch of garrigue, too, and a
MONTEFALCO 2015
DOCG I CAMPI CAMPO VULCANO SOAVE nod to restrained Grenache. Focused,
CLASSICO 2018 precise and long on the finish, this is also
TASTING NOTE: Another very ripe and DOC brilliantly structured. It’s not impossibly
bold Montefalco with dried-meat, tar and TASTING NOTE: This is a very minerally hard, but it is nowhere near ready. The
mocha character. There’s some polish to white with pumice, freshly squeezed tannins stop short of truly astringent,
the drying tannins, however, and the lemons, orange blossom and petrichor. but they are too much right now. It’s
earthy elements are surprisingly Cutthroat on the medium-bodied palate penetrating on the finish too. Drink date:
appealing. Drink from 2024. with piquant acidity and long, citrus 2021-2036.
Score: 91 (jamessuckling.com, Nov. 7, flavors. Hints of praline on the complex Score: 95 (Mark Squires, robertparker.
2019) finish. Drink now. com, Aug. 30, 2019)
542191 (XD) 750 mL $49.00 Score: 94 (jamessuckling.com, July 22, 20946 (XD) 750 mL $93.00
2020)
269969 (XD) 750 mL $30.00
12 VINTAGESTHE CLASSICS COLLECTION • JULY 2021
SPAIN slowly to elegant blackcurrant fruit and
spice. The wine is tightly structured, but CANADA
Long-lived reds, including suavely textured, very long and delicious. A profound single-vineyard
the Ferrer Bobet Vinyes A benchmark for old-vine wine: power Ontario Chardonnay from vines
Velles 2016 sourced from and finesse in lovely balance. Drinking approaching 40 years of age
100-year-old vines, and two window: 2020-2030. and a single-vineyard Okanagan
outstanding white wines from Rioja. Score: 95 (Pedro Ballesteros Torres, MW, Pinot Noir. Single-minded quality
decanter.com, March 21, 2020) from Canada.
RED WINE 579896 (XD) 750 mL $80.00
CELESTE RESERVA 2016
ONTARIO
WHITE WINE
DO Ribera del Duero WHITE WINE
(Miguel Torres)
This modern-styled Reserva, from the HERMANOS HERNÁIZ FINCA
LA EMPERATRIZ GRAN VINO TAWSE ROBYN’S BLOCK
inimitable Torres, is sourced from hillside CHARDONNAY 2018
BLANCO 2016
sites planted in Miocene limestone and VQA Twenty Mile Bench,
DOCa Rioja
marl at 895 meters above sea level. Niagara Escarpment
These factors combine to create a silky, TASTING NOTE: The boldly named 2016
Finca la Emperatriz Gran Vino Blanco is Sourced from the winery’s oldest estate
refined wine with generous black fruit,
pure Viura from 50- to 60-year-old vines vines (now over 37 years of age), this
cumin and spice, all with a clear, precise
from their estate vineyard in the Finca la wine is one of the standout single-
provenance.
Emperatriz, from which they produce only vineyard expressions crafted in Niagara.
10493 (XD) 750 mL $35.00 Invariably complex and lively, it never
two whites and two reds, and the rest are
from grapes grown outside the property. fails to reflect its impeccable pedigree.
CONTINO GRAN RESERVA 2014 2016 was a cool year, very good for John Szabo, MS, awarded the 2017
DOCa Rioja whites, whose grapes were picked on vintage a rating of 93 points (winealign.
October 6th and 7th. Half of the wine com, Aug. 19, 2019). The 2018 offers
TASTING NOTE: Gorgeous notes of generous pear, lime and butterscotch.
red plums, currants, vanilla spice, and fermented in concrete and the other half
in 225-liter oak barrels, and it matured Drink now till 2028+.
candied flowers all emerge from the
2014 Gran Reserva. With full-bodied for ten months in barrique and a further 416321 (XD) 750 mL $46.15
richness, a rounded, layered texture, ten months in concrete. It has a clean
plenty of mid-palate depth, and present and expressive nose with notes of white
yet ripe tannins, this beauty does flowers and fruit, chamomile, hay and
pollen, with the oak neatly integrated.
BRITISH COLUMBIA
everything right and can be drunk with
incredible pleasure any time over the The palate is fresh and also quite RED WINE
coming 10-15 years. This cuvée is expressive, with great freshness and
based on 70% Tempranillo and the rest a long, lingering finish. Drink date:
2020-2028. MEYER MCLEAN CREEK ROAD
Graciano, Mazuelo, and Garnacha, all VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2018
fermented and aged in new French and Score: 93 (Luis Gutiérrez, robertparker. BC VQA Okanagan Valley
American oak. Drink date: 2020-2035. com, June 28, 2019)
TASTING NOTE: Here’s an energized,
Score: 96 (Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck. 20704 (XD) 750 mL $60.00 firm pinot with classic, lifted and very
com, Dec. 9, 2020) engaging aromas of red cherry, cranberry,
480178 (XD) 750 mL $40.00 LOPEZ DE HEREDIA VIÑA TONDONIA violet, vanillin, bacon, roasted herbs and
RESERVA BLANCO 2009 lovely oak spice. It is medium weight with
FERRER BOBET VINYES VELLES DOCa Rioja fine smooth texture, lively almost tart
2016 TASTING NOTE: Intense aromas of acidity and fine-grained yet firm tannin.
DOCa Priorat cooked lemon, dried apple, light vanilla The length is excellent. Give it two years.
and stone with some waxy and lanolin Score: 92 (David Lawrason, winealign.
TASTING NOTE: Made from centenarian
character. Full-bodied with a dense, com, Nov. 9, 2020)
vines in Porrera, planted on slate soils.
Careful harvest and winemaking, with layered palate with beautiful fruit, nougat 16092 (XD) 750 mL $49.00
grain selection. Fermented in large oak and meringue at the finish. Really opens
vats, then aged in French oak and bottle. out. Unique. Drink now [to 2025+].
Restrained on the nose, opening up Score: 97 (jamessuckling.com, Dec. 15,
2020)
45500 (XD) 750 mL $66.00
13 VINTAGESTHE CLASSICS COLLECTION • JULY 2021
AUSTRALIA
TORBRECK THE FACTOR 2016
Barossa Valley, South Australia NEW
Big scores and bigger names
from Down Under including the
TASTING NOTE: Torbreck’s 2016
The Factor incorporates what winemaker
ZEALAND
The Pegasus Bay Riesling
Torbreck The Factor 2016 and Ian Hongell calls their “most structured 2017 touts NZ’s prowess
the single-vineyard Bleasdale Shiraz, from a lot of ironstone soils.” It with aromatic white wines.
The Powder Monkey Shiraz 2015. spends two years in French oak
barriques, half of which were new, so it WHITE WINE
RED WINE shows hints of cedar pencil shavings
and toasted coconut layered over ripe
blackberries and spice. Full-bodied, rich PEGASUS BAY RIESLING 2017
BLEASDALE THE POWDER MONKEY Waipara, South Island
SINGLE VINEYARD SHIRAZ 2015 and velvety, it finishes long, with terrific
Langhorne Creek, South Australia energy and drive. It should prove to be TASTING NOTE: This has such attractive,
one of the longest-lived wines from this reductive complexity that is woven deep
TASTING NOTE: Matured in French oak lineup. Drink date: 2020-2040. into citrus marmalade, grapefruit, lemons
(27% new) for 12 months, gold medal Score: 97 (Joe Czerwinski, robertparker. and apricots. The palate has a very
Melbourne Wine Awards ’16. Previously com, Feb. 28, 2019) supple and succulent feel with attractive,
tasted Jan ’17, and has held its colour
20347 (XD) 750 mL $159.00 ripe peaches and mangoes. Very complex
well – and all of its other features. In its
texture. Superb. Drink or hold.
youth I wrote ‘It is very concentrated
Score: 94 (jamessuckling.com, Oct. 16,
and powerful, but there’s no sign of a WAKEFIELD ST. ANDREWS SHIRAZ 2019)
midriff bulge. The fruits are all black, both 2017
berry and cherry, the oak and tannins Clare Valley, South Australia 20089 (M) 750 mL $39.00
built into the very fabric of the wine.
TASTING NOTE: This is an excellent
Score: 97 (James Halliday,
example of cool-climate Shiraz. The nose
winecompanion.com.au, Aug. 1, 2020)
is complex, with eucalypt and black fruits.
13567 (XD) 750 mL $60.00 The palate shows great black fruits, spice,
pepper and a floral complexity. There is
MOSS WOOD a coherence and freshness to the palate,
CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2017 which is very long and elegant. Good use
Wilyabrup, Margaret River, Western of oak.
Australia Score: 96 (International Wine & Spirit
TASTING NOTE: Supremely elegant Competition, 2019)
cabernet sauvignon with red and blue 626697 (XD) 750 mL $60.00
fruits, floral, violet, shoe box, cedar,
nutmeg and nutty oak flavours. No single
flavour dominates creating a delicious WHITE WINE
medley of appealing characters. Power
delivered with subtlety. While it can be FRANKLAND ESTATE ISOLATION
appreciated now I’d love to taste it in RIDGE RIESLING 2018
another decade (or two). Drink date: Vegan, Frankland River,
2020-2037. Western Australia
Score: 97 (Bob Campbell, MW,
TASTING NOTE: OMG. Incredible
therealreview.com, April 3, 2020)
complexity on the nose with crushed-
327684 (XD) 750 mL $113.00 stone, slate and lemon character. Some
nutmeg and white pepper, too. Full-
bodied with a crunchy and creamy palate
that highlights the bitter-lemon and
mineral flavors. Very, very long. Organic
wine. Drink now [to 2033+].
Score: 96 (jamessuckling.com, Dec. 2,
2019)
17224 (XD) 750 mL $40.00
14 VINTAGESTHE CLASSICS COLLECTION • JULY 2021
SOUTH ARGENTINA
AFRICA A parade of high-scoring,
high-altitude Malbec and
From Eikendal, a prime
example of South Africa’s Malbec-based offerings from
masterful red blends, plus a Mendoza.
Pinot Noir and a brace of Chenin
Blancs that deliciously summarize RED WINE
SA’s quality cool-climate offerings.
ACHAVAL FERRER FINCA BELLA
RED WINE VISTA MALBEC 2015
Sustainable, single vineyard, Perdriel,
Mendoza
EIKENDAL CLASSIQUE 2017
WO Stellenbosch TASTING NOTE: Bella Vista is Achával
Ferrer’s home vineyard in Perdriel,
TASTING NOTE: Firm, intense, backward planted in 1910 on alluvial soils and still
and made to age, Classique is the WHITE WINE on its own roots. It’s a sweet, supple,
Château Léoville-Las-Cases of remarkably intense wine with tobacco
Stellenbosch in some ways: a red wine and sweet spice notes, hints of sun-dried
that requires you to be patient. Cabernet GABRIËLSKLOOF ELODIE
THE LANDSCAPE SERIES CHENIN tomato, scented oak and a core of
Sauvignon-based with 49% Merlot, Petit appealing raspberry and wild strawberry
Verdot and Cabernet Franc, it’s dense, BLANC 2018
WO Swartland fruit. Drink date: 2020-2028.
compact and richly oaked with sinewy Score: 95 (Tim Atkin, MW, timatkin.com,
tannins and supporting acidity. Drink TASTING NOTE: Chenin redolent of Argentina Special Report 2018)
date: 2023-2032. Swartland old vines. 2018 generous
Score: 95 (Tim Atkin, MW, timatkin.com, aromatic breadth, mouthfilling ripe 178103 (XD) 750 mL $130.00
South Africa Special Report 2019) flavours – baked pear, whiff of honey;
added naunce via natural ferment, ESCORIHUELA GASCON
574012 (XD) 750 mL $39.00
larger seasoned oak. Tense, mineral core THE PRESIDENT’S BLEND
carries deep flavours to great length. MALBEC/CABERNET SAUVIGNON/
STORM VREDE PINOT NOIR 2017 2017 (4.5 stars, 93 pts) included SYRAH 2018
WO Hemel-en-Aarde Valley Durbanville fruit. Uco Valley, Mendoza
TASTING NOTE: Hannes Storm makes Score: 95 (Angela Lloyd, Platter’s South TASTING NOTE: 85% Malbec, 10%
three distinctive and very different African Wine Guide, 2020) Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Syrah. Pretty
Pinot Noirs from estate-grown fruit in the 13704 (XD) 750 mL $45.00 blue fruit notes with intriguing herbs,
Hemel-en-Aarde Valley near Hermanus. lavender and thyme over crunchy
The Vrede Pinot comes from an elevated peppery raspberry undertones. Open
vineyard site on shale soils and is very METZER MARITIME and expressive with plenty of character,
SINGLE VINEYARD CHENIN BLANC with a beautiful velvety texture and
Burgundian in style but with a new world
2018 well-judged oak use.
flair. Lush red fruit dominates the nose WO Stellenbosch
and palate with cherries and violets Score: 97 (Decanter World Wine Awards,
dominating before a lick of oak leads to TASTING NOTE: It’s always tricky to 2020)
more tertiary characters of soil and decide between Wade Metzer’s two 20325 (XD) 750 mL $54.00
tomato leaf. Long and delicious. Drinking site-specific Chenins (why not just buy
window: 2019-2024. them both?), but in 2018 this is my
Score: 95 (Chris Wilson, decanter.com, favourite. Made with fruit from a cool,
Sept. 2019) False Bay-influenced, old-vine parcel,
it’s pale, refined and appropriately salty,
20532 (XD) 750 mL $59.00 with sea breeze freshness and oatmeal,
beeswax and lanolin notes freshened
by acidity. Drink date: 2020-2025.
Score: 95 (Tim Atkin, MW, timatkin.com,
South Africa Special Report 2019)
17930 (XD) 750 mL $43.00
15 VINTAGESTHE CLASSICS COLLECTION • JULY 2021
LUPA MALBEC 2018
Paraje Altamira, Uco Valley, Mendoza
TASTING NOTE: All made with fruit
planted in the older part of Paraje
Altamira north of the Canal Uco in 1947,
this is a brilliant, small-volume Malbec
from the modest Juan Pablo Lupiañez.
Intense, subtle and very polished, it has
aniseed and orange peel aromas, layered
blackberry and black fig fruit, 35% new
wood and scented Asian spices. Drink
date: 2022-2026.
Score: 95 (Tim Atkin, MW, timatkin.com,
Argentina Special Report 2020)
629964 (XD) 750 mL $39.95
TRAPICHE FINCA COLETTO TERROIR
SERIES MALBEC 2017
Single vineyard, El Peral, Mendoza
TASTING NOTE: The energy and
electricity in this is exciting. Full-bodied,
CHILE
Chile’s Maule Valley is home to interesting comparison. This comes from
yet tight and extremely vertical. It takes
some of the oldest plantings of Truquilemu, one of the coolest places in
you deep down. Blueberry and stone
Carignan in the world, so don’t Maule, but 2017 was a warm year and
character. Complex, but always focused.
miss the Garage Wine Co. Vigno also marked by brutal wildfires. The
So right now, but better in two or three
Old Vines Carignan 2017. palate is sharp and has marked granite
years. Try in 2022.
Score: 97 (jamessuckling.com, Dec. 4, character and very good freshness. A
2020) RED WINE great effort for the adverse conditions of
the year! Drink date: 2020-2027.
482968 (XD) 750 mL $45.00 Score: 96 (Luis Gutiérrez, robertparker.
CLOS APALTA LE PETIT CLOS 2017
Apalta Valley, Colchagua Valley com, Feb. 28, 2020)
TRAPICHE ISCAY 15625 (XD) 750 mL $59.00
MALBEC/CABERNET FRANC 2017 TASTING NOTE: This is so delicious with
Mendoza blackcurrants, spice, sweet tobacco,
TASTING NOTE: The first vintage of Iscay lavender and roses. Full-bodied, tight and MATETIC VINEYARDS EQ SYRAH
was the 1997, and at that time it was a very polished with gorgeous texture and 2015
finesse. Shows tannin tension at the end. DO San Antonio Valley
blend of merlot and malbec. Today it’s
70% malbec, and the rest is cabernet A blend of mostly cabernet sauvignon, TASTING NOTE: This is a sensational
franc, all from vineyards in Gualtallary in the rest cabernet franc. Better after 2022. syrah that shows pressed violets and
northern Uco Valley. This is an intense Score: 96 (jamessuckling.com, April 17, lavender, framed between enticing
and deep wine full of fruity, herbal, and 2020) nuances of earth, bark and tea leaves.
spicy notes. In the beginning, it’s all 15624 (XD) 750 mL $73.00 Not only is the palate structured, but it’s
black fruit, but then it turns all tannins, also very polished, thanks to wonderfully
and even later, it’s all herbs. Give it dialed-in tannins and forthright acidity.
GARAGE WINE CO. VIGNO OLD Full-bodied and very long on the finish.
time, because this wine deserves it,
VINES CARIGNAN 2017
especially for its aging potential. Here’s Dry farmed, Maule Valley Drink in 2025.
wine for a good while in the bottle. Score: 95 (jamessuckling.com, June 24,
Score: 96 (Patricio Tapia, TASTING NOTE: I find the 2017 Vigno 2020)
guiadescorchados.cl, 2021) from Garage Wine Co. to be quite wild
with notes of iron, wild flowers and lots 252304 (XD) 750 mL $39.00
450585 (XD) 750 mL $60.00 of pollen, balsamic and expressive and in
a way somewhat similar to the one from
De Martino; I tasted 12 Vigno bottlings
together, which made for a very
16 VINTAGESTHE CLASSICS COLLECTION • JULY 2021
USA CARTE BLANCHE NAPA VALLEY benefit from 4-5 years of bottle age and
CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2016 keep for 25 years or more. Maturity:
A stellar collection of Napa Valley 2024-2049.
cellar-worthy California wines, TASTING NOTE: A different beast, the Score: 97 (Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.
elegant offerings from Oregon’s 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (100% com, Jan. 31, 2020)
iconic Eyrie and a bold Meritage from Cabernet Sauvignon) is more backward 439893 (XD) 750 mL $357.00
Washington’s historic Chateau Ste. and reticent, and while it needs 4-5 years
Michelle. of bottle age, is packed with potential.
Both black and blue fruits, earth, tobacco, DALLA VALLE COLLINA 2017
and freshly crushed rock notes all flow Napa Valley
CALIFORNIA to a full-bodied 2016 that has plenty of TASTING NOTE: What could be thought
fine tannins, remarkable purity of fruit, of as the entry-level wine from this
RED WINE and beautiful intensity and length. Do benchmark estate, the 2017 Collina is a
your best to give this some bottle age, blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35%
ANDIS OLD VINE DI STASIO and you’ll be rewarded with a phenomenal Cabernet Franc, and the rest Petit Verdot.
VINEYARD ZINFANDEL 2018 Napa Valley Cabernet that will keep for There’s not much made (600 cases) but
Sierra Foothills 2-3 decades. Drink date: 2019-2039. it’s a beautiful wine that certainly has
Score: 97 (Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck. the classic vibe of the estate as well as
TASTING NOTE: This complex, well-
com, Jan. 31, 2019) medium to full body, a rounded, textured
spiced but also well-balanced wine starts
20591 (XD) 750 mL $245.00 mouthfeel, solid mid-palate density, and
with subtle oak nuances of cinnamon,
beautiful cassis, currants, Asian spice,
toast and nutmeg, then reveals a core of
and flowery incense aromatics. Given the
rich, ripe black fruits and a mouthfilling
CORISON NAPA VALLEY CABERNET prices of Napa Valley Bordeaux blends
texture buoyed by a touch of grippy SAUVIGNON 2017 these days, it’s a stunning value. Maturity:
tannin. Editors’ Choice. Napa Valley 2021-2036.
Score: 94 (Jim Gordon, Wine Enthusiast,
TASTING NOTE: From benchland Score: 95 (Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.
Dec. 31, 2020)
vineyards, the winemaker’s perennial com, Jan. 31, 2020)
20584 (XD) 750 mL $55.00 beauty of a wine is structured, evolved, 403220 (XD) 750 mL $156.00
graceful and complex, with powerful
ARROWOOD RÉSERVE SPÉCIALE floral aromatics of rose and violet. Earthy
CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015 and herbal, it tastes of rock and iron, with DONELAN SONOMA COUNTY CUVÉE
Unfined and unfiltered, Sonoma Valley, bright underlying invitations of cassis, MORIAH 2016
Sonoma County tangy cherry and plum. This will do well in Sonoma County
TASTING NOTE: The deep purple-black the cellar; enjoy best from 2027 through TASTING NOTE: The gorgeous 2016
colored 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon 2030. Cellar Selection. Cuvée Moriah is all class. Bright, vibrant
Reserve Speciale (100% Cabernet Score: 95 (Virginie Boone, Wine and delineated, it beautifully blends 67%
Sauvignon) sings of fresh blackcurrants, Enthusiast, Sept. 1, 2020) Grenache from Dry Stack (in Bennett
warm plums, mulberries and black 569707 (XD) 750 mL $175.00 Valley), 20% Mourvèdre (from Sonoma
raspberries with touches of cedar chest, Valley) and 10% Syrah (from Sonoma
pencil lead, underbrush and sautéed Mountain). On the palate, it exudes
herbs. Full-bodied and laden with black DALLA VALLE balance and sophistication; the interplay
CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2017 of bright red-toned fruit and mouth-
fruits and earth layers, it has a firm, Napa Valley
grainy structure and a long, earthy finish. watering acids is compelling. The 2016
Drink date: 2021-2040. TASTING NOTE: Moving to the 2017 is one of the finest (maybe the finest)
Score: 96 (Lisa Perrotti-Brown, MW, Cabernet Sauvignon, this cuvée is too Cuvée Moriahs I can remember tasting.
robertparker.com, Oct. 29, 2018) often underrated and I think it’s one of Don’t miss it. Drinking window: 2021-
the most classy, balanced, high quality 2031.
64568 (XD) 750 mL $119.00 Cabernets coming from the valley. Score: 95 (Antonio Galloni, vinous.com,
Deep purple-colored with beautiful May 2019)
blackcurrant fruits interwoven with lots 523753 (XD) 750 mL $95.00
of tobacco, crushed rocks, leafy herbs,
and graphite, it hits the palate with
full-bodied richness, ripe, present tannins,
and stunning balance. It’s going to
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