BINOCS AND TELESCOPES TESTED FOR YOU - APRIL 2018 - MYSUBS
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Binocs and
telescopes
tested for you
(pg 53)
ON THE COVER
Berg-en-Dal: get a spot near
the fence to see wildlife
APRIL 2018
R38,90 Other countries R34,12
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04.18
IN THIS MONTH’S GETAWAY
UPFRONT TRAVEL
7 ED’S LETTER 58 DESERT LIONS
You can count on one It took three photographers
thing always: change. three years to capture
That time has come, these images of an elusive
says Sonya Schoeman Namibian pride
9 CONTRIBUTORS 64 CAMPING IN KRUGER
Meet this month’s experts There are 13 campsites in
and adventurers this national park, but only
seven we’d pitch our tent
10 THE TRAVELLER
at. Find the right one to suit
The south of Spain is
the kind of camper you are
a great place to grow old,
says Darrel Bristow-Bovey 74 KNYSNA
12 INBOX
Welcome Lishivha goes
Our favourite letters and
back to see what’s become
messages this month
of the Garden Route
84 MAURITIUS
Love a bit of lounger-
lazing? So did Melanie
van Zyl, but this resort
also encouraged a lot of
cultural exploration
92 SAIGON
In Vietnam’s capital, the
day starts out in joyful
birdsong. Narina Exelby
shares the magic of this
COVER & THIS PHOTOGRAPH Melanie van Zyl
If you were on one of
these loungers on this
beach, would you want to
leave this spot? You don’t
have to, but you should
consider it – there’s a lot to
see beyond this stretch of
sand. Find out more
on page 84
04.18
IN THIS MONTH’S GETAWAY
PG 74 PG 38
ESCAPE PHOTOGRAPHY GEAR COMPETITIONS
14 WISH YOU WERE HERE 28 MASTERCLASS 53 STARGAZING 37 SEND US YOUR PHOTOS
# ) 6 # " 8 '$9Getaway
7 / ;!
32 GALLERY 98 GEAR SHOP
%$@'A'''B
) ) / 0 +
23 WIN A TRIP FOR
17 CALENDAR
TWO TO MAURITIUS
"
( # / C
THE FINAL CUT INSIDER’S GUIDE
18 ADVENTURE
0 E 38 BAINSKLOOF 117 PRINGLE BAY %&DA'''
% # Pippa de Bruyn "
Matthew Sterne2
21 GEAR
)
"+
4 + 4 5
ROAD TRIP
22 NEIGHBOURHOOD
" 44 THE ‘BEN 10’ CHALLENGE Subscribe
( )# *
; H to Getaway
Andreas Eiselen, Gareth van Nelson
+Tyson Jopson!"
24 BITES #
" 0 > #
!
25 INSIDE GETAWAY
" #$ %& '!
FROM
SECTION
THE EDITOR
NAME
Sonya Schoeman
It’s been a blast
Change. In a blink it’s here: Asia. This litter is his gift gift that is. As a community, momentum. Did you know,
people you love are gone, to us, the rest of humanity, you’ve supported this for instance, that in London
new ones you’ll grow to love a gift we didn’t ask for and magazine hugely. Thank you. milkmen and women are
are born, a former tourism don’t want. Frankly, a man Other gifts have been the returning with their familiar
minister is appointed again of 28 who has done very little enriching journeys all over clink of bottles as millennials
(welcome back, Derek in the world besides inherit our gorgeous country and eschew plastic? Of course, the
Hanekom) and Zuma no obscene wealth and thinks continent, and working with issues of waste are far bigger
longer has a job, probably his genes are superior to an exceptionally smart and than this, but it’s important to
not having ‘saved’ what he anyone else’s sounds to me talented team whose stories celebrate the small changes;
thought he should for this day like the very definition of fill this issue: read deputy they signal the big ones.
of unemployment he thought bad genes, and bad manners. editor Tyson Jopson’s wild And on that note, I’ve met
he could sidestep forever. However, the problem and funny ‘Ben 10’ success you on these pages every
I read about another about hubris is that often it’s (page 44), Welcome Lishivha’s month for the past four years
example of hubris, a man in a blind spot, and we simply winding exploration of and am now moving on. To
Japan who thinks his genes don’t see it. As I didn’t when a rejuvenating Eden (page 74), the wonderful Getaway team,
are so exceptional that he’s I started as Getaway editor, and Melanie van Zyl’s blissful past and present, I’ve met you
fathered 19 children with with a pack full of smart island holiday (page 84). almost every day of that
different surrogates across ideas. No other magazine has In Pringle Bay, Matthew stretch. Thank you for that
taught me as acutely that an Sterne discovers a town time. It’s been a blast.
editor is merely a custodian wholly committed to being And to close a perfect
whose task is to listen to what plastic free (see page 117), a circle, welcome to your new
a community wants, and sign of how environmental editor, former Getaway
what an incredibly valuable awareness is gathering photo-journalist Justin Fox.
5 things to look out for
in this April issue
KRUGER’S BIG SEVEN
Camping in the Kruger National
Park gets you that much closer to
nature. We tested all 13 of the park’s
campsites and on page 64 we reveal
where to go for the best experience.
MAURITIUS
South Africans have loved this island
for years. Here’s a new way to visit,
with some great deals (page 84)
and a chance to win a holiday there
THE CAPE
(page 23).
GETAWAY SHOW
LIONS has been cancelled.
The portfolio on page 58 showcases For more info, go to
a remarkable group of lions.
getaway.co.za/
GOOD-NEWS TOWNS the-getaway-show
Knysna (page 74) and Pringle Bay
(page 117) want to do the right thing,
and this makes them wonderful and
worthy spots to visit and re-visit.
THE GOOD-VALUE STAR
Each issue of Getaway has several
inexpensive accommodation options
Tyson Jopson
for under R550 pp (some for less)
+! TO OUR READERS Our aim is to help make your travel better.
So look out for the star.
Mail us with any feedback or input at editor@getaway.co.za
getaway.co.za 7
GROUP GETAWAYS
Editor Sonya Schoeman
EDITORIAL TEAM
Deputy Editor Tyson Jopson Caroline Webb
Copy Editor Michelle Hardie
CATCH A Gear Editor Matthew Sterne
TIGER ON THE Multimedia Journalists Ondela Mlandu
ZAMBEZI Nandi Majola
CREATIVE TEAM
RIVER Marisa Steyn
Senior Designer Achmat Booley
5 DAYS FROM DIGITAL TEAM
R18 850 Digital Content Manager
Multimedia Journalist
Melanie van Zyl
Welcome Lishivha
All-inclusive Group Web Development Manager Cicero Joseph
Webmaster Lizelle Leonard
CONTRIBUTORS
Darrel Bristow-Bovey, Pippa de Bruyn, Narina Exelby, Andreas Eiselen,
Gareth van Nelson, Philip Stander, Will and Lianne Steenkamp
BUSINESS AND SALES TEAM
VICTORIA Ryan Nicolle
FALLS Group Sales Manager
Wayne Willmore
Ingrid Versfeld, Charles Duke,
ADVENTURE Nadine Grahn, Zimbini Mtongana
Getaway Travel Claudia Hodkinson
4 DAYS FROM Travel Assistant Inshaaf Amos
Getaway Gear Mike Parr (011-449-1089)
R16 950 Getaway Guide Erika Pienaar (021-530-3114)
Game drive MARKETING, EVENTS AND CIRCULATION
+ river cruise + more " # Stephan Herman
Group Events Manager Monique Brevis
Group Events Coordinators Lumkile Tisana
Nasreen Abrahams
Lizl Joseph
$ Karin Mulder
DESERTS + DUNES OF
NAMIBIA
Ramsay Media is owned by Highbury Media & CTP Ltd.
7 DAYS FROM Highbury Media holds the controlling interest in Ramsay Media.
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HIGHLIGHTS OF *- PM Jenkins, TD Moolman, T J W Holden
TANZANIA Editorial Enquiries: Sonya Schoeman editor@getaway.co.za
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5 DAYS FROM
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CONTRIBUTORS
SECTION NAME
, Lesotho to the right.
South Africa to the left
Can you gue ss the mountain pass?
Find out on page 44
Tyson Jopson
Road Trip, page 44
Nandi Majola Philip Stander Getaway# Andreas Eiselen
Wish You Were Here, page 14 and Will and Lianne did it – he closed his laptop for The Final Cut, page 38
Steenkamp the last time as our second-in-
As a teenager, Nandi wished she Portfolio, page 58 Contributing photographer
could work for a magazine. And #
now she’s here at Getaway. Her Two decades ago Philip gave magazine. His next adventure the mountains, a love kindled
favourite place in South Africa will take him to the far reaches + H+
is the Amphitheatre in the unique desert-adapted lions of Europe, where he’ll be riding with his father as a kid. This
H+ of the Namib. It wasn’t long and documenting the best month we sent him to another
+0 adventure-bike trails on the set of mountains, Bainskloof,
covering a new route up Lion’s Lianne joined him. Now, with ! !
4 >" 2 Getaway 0
didn’t know there was one!). For wildlife documentaries under sent him to the Eastern Cape
# their belts, the intrepid trio Highlands to tackle South Africa’s rock pools, waterfalls and
the one behind our Escapes share with us an astonishing toughest road trip. Good luck, stunning hikes’. He also shares
Tyson Jopson
section opener, and this month sequence of images of this " !0
# majestic predator. Europe are rubbish. =
Gold Coast is making waves. Instagram: @tysonjopson section (page 28).
getaway.co.za 9
THE TRAVELLER
Darrel Bristow-Bovey
which the donkeys have been banned.
On the corners, should a car happen to
pass from the other direction, there is just
enough space for you both to be on the
road at the same time, but only if you both
inhale and hold your breath. There’s no
hard shoulder so even though you’re
tempted at times to stop and look at the
scenery and get your nerve back, you can’t
– you just have to keep on going and hope
One for the ages that whatever’s around the bend won’t
kill you before you get where you’re going.
) At last I came down from the mountains
and stopped at the small village of
Alozaina to put in petrol, and as I leaned
April is my birthday month and therefore the cruellest month but not against the car I noticed a spreading tree
in Andalusia. I was in Southern Spain for two weeks, staying in a small with a small group of men gathered
white stone-walled farmhouse on the edge of a mesa overlooking the underneath it, standing or sitting
Jorox River valley. There were lemon trees and olive groves all around according to their temperament. They were
and in the middle distance the blue-grey Sierra de las Nieves, the very old men and they wore jackets and
‘mountains of the snows’. If there is a better place to spend a birthday, cloth caps and they all seemed to know
I want you to tell me about it. each other very well. They were pouring
When you are younger you think a lot on your birthday about each other glasses from a bottle and then
growing older, but when you’re older you think about growing old. the bottle was finished but they had
I drove down to the sea to Málaga and walked up the steep hill to another one. The guy at the petrol station
the Moorish fortress, telling myself, ‘See? You can still
s walk up a hill. told me they meet every day at lunchtime
You aren’t old yet.’ under the tree, to catch up and tell jokes
I walked through the narrow streets of the old town, lingering in and drink wine, and then they go home
patches of pale sunlight, enjoying the apricity. Apricity is a word we to their lives.
should use more often. It means the warmth of the winter sun, and As I looked at the men under the tree,
although April isn’t winter, it’s not far away. I visited the house where one of them finished telling a story and
Picasso was born, around the corner from the grand cathedral, with the other men all laughed. I feel very
the orange trees planted outside. In a backstreet near the Roman happy to have seen them. I hope my own
amphitheatre I sat at a wine barrel and sipped vermouth and fino and road through the mountains brings me
thought about Picasso and how productive he stayed, how much energy one day to a place like Alozaina, with some
he had, like a bull, even when he was old. I wondered what I would be shady trees and some old friends, and
like, if I would be a bull and still bare my chest to the sun or whether some wine every day and a good laugh.
I would shrink and grow timid and stay indoors.
I thought about the birthdays I’ve had, and whether it’s better to be at
home or away on your birthday, alone or in company. Then I wondered
whether Picasso ever grew morose and sentimental on his birthdays.
I started to worry that I’m unlikely to age like Picasso.
I drove back through the mountains. The roads are very narrow and
twisty once you turn off the autoway. They are roads only in the sense
that they are made of tar; really, they’re just ancient donkey tracks from
10 APRIL 2018You can also read
