Château du Moulin à Vent - Revue de Presse Press Review www.chateaudumoulinavent.com - Château du Moulin-à-Vent

Château du
Moulin à Vent

 Revue de Presse
 Press Review

 www.chateaudumoulinavent.com

table des matières

Wine Spectator p.3 Forbes 2017 p.27
Wine & Spirits p.4 Forbes 2020 p.30
Bettane & Desseauve p.5 Valeurs Actuelles p.31
Jancis Robinson 2017 p.6 Terre de Vins p.32
Financial Times p.8 Vigneron p.33
Le Figaro p.9 Le Journal du Dimanche p.35
Les échos 2015 p.11 L’Express p.36
Les échos 2016 p.12 Le Monde p.37
Wine Anorak, Dr Jamie Goode p.14 Winart p.38
En Magnum, Bettane & Desseauve p.17 Pers Wijn p.42
Jancis Robinson 2019 p.18 Cuisine & Vins p.44
Jancis Robinson 2016 p.20 Opening a Bottle p.46
The World of Fine Wine p.22 Anthocyanes p.48
Wine Spectator p.23 Vert de Vin p.49
La Revue du Vin de France p.24 Causeur Magazine p.50
Le Point p.25 Din Vin Guide p.51

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 Decoding Moulin-à-Vent with Edouard Parinet

The owner and director of Château du Moulin-à-Vent talks about his father-son venture, the
debunked folklore behind Gamay, and what makes this Beaujolais cru unique.

According to Parinet, three things make Moulin-à-Vent "the lord of the crus": the drying winds during
harvest time (the cru is named after its iconic 15th-century windmill that exists to this day); the eroded
granitic, sandy-textured soils; and the presence of heat-reflecting silica in the soils in the upper areas of
the appellation. Each of these features creates more stress for the Gamay vines, resulting in smaller,
more concentrated berries than those of the other crus.

Parinet does not utilize semi-carbonic maceration, a typical winemaking practice in Beaujolais, which
emphasizes fruit while reducing tannic structure. Instead, the grapes for his wines are crushed and
then fermented in stainless-steel tanks followed by aging for at least 12 months in mostly used French
oak barrels.

"Traditional winemaking enables us to better show the diversity of terroir in Moulin-à-Vent rather
than if we used carbonic or semi-carbonic vinification, which is known for really revealing the primary
aromas of Gamay," explains Parinet. "And if you show the primary aromas of Gamay, you don't show
as much diversity of terroir."

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 wines to the level they had achieved early on,
Château du Moulin-à- when Madame Pommier was investigating the
Vent, Wine & Spirits different characteristics of the estate parcels.
 Laffond is not making Beaujolais with carbonic
TOP 100 Wineries of 2017 maceration: he destems the bunches, cold
 soaks the fruit, pumps the juice over the skins
New owners have revitalized the historic Château
 before and after the fermentation and ages the
du Moulin-à-Vent and its vineyards, bringing the
 wines for 17 months or more in barrel.
estate’s wine to the forefront of Beaujolais.

 Standing Apart: Most of the Château’s vines
 are planted on granite soils, some veined in
Three owners in three centuries: The
 pink. Champ de Cour, with its southeastern
Pommier family founded the Château des
 exposure, is the most clay-dominated terroir of
Thorins in Moulin-à-Vent, gaining
 their holdings. It produced a powerful 2014
international attention at the Universal
 with mush, dark fruit and high notes of violets
Exhibition in London in 1862. Madame
 and irises. The 2014 La Rochelle has unbridled
Pommier, at the age of 99, presented her
 energy, thanks to the 70-year-old vines and its
family’s 1854, ‘58 and ‘59 wines, ranked the
 warm, southern exposure at the top of the
best of the Mâcon at the exhibition. In 1911, the
 Moulin-à-Vent appellation. It sits directly in a
Pommiers sold the estate to the Damoy family,
 wind corridor that helps keep disease at bay
who owned a large department store in Paris.
 and helps the grapes retain brisk acidity. Pure
They renamed the property Château du
 and plummy, it’s Beaujolais with the finesse of
Moulin-à-Vent, with ambitions to sell their
 Burgundy, and it may make you think
wines at the store, but eventually lost interest
 instinctively of country pâté, earthy terrines or
and began selling the grapes to local co-ops.
 roast rabbit.
Jean-Jacques Parinet became the third owner in
2009. He had grown up with Moulin-à-Vent on
the dinner table, and had made enough money
in IT to finance the restoration of the estate.
Working with his son, Edouard, and
winemaker Brice Laffond, he set out to
renovate the cellars and replant much of the
vineyards at high density.

Looking North to Burgundy: Laffond began to
implement organic and biodynamic practices
in several of the parcels, working to restore the

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 Château du Moulin-à-Vent, la grandeur du
TOP 10 des domaines de Beaujolais
l’année : La volonté et Le Château du Moulin-à-Vent est devenu en
l’exigence quelques années une référence incontournable
 de l’appellation, avec une gamme de vins
Figurent dans ce palmarès national dix complète et d’excellente qualité. Les 2014
producteurs au sommet de la qualité ou avaient pris un virage encourageant vers des
particulièrement remarquables, les domaines vins plus élégants, moins démonstratifs. Cette
que nous avons découverts, qui confirment les tendance s’est confirmée en 2015, avec des vins à
espoirs mis en eux, qui progressent fortement, la puissance contenue, à la finesse enfin révélée.
qui reviennent au meilleur plan, les bios très Notre intuition était la bonne : ce domaine
bons et les signatures, références s’inscrit parmi les grands du Beaujolais, avec un
incontournables du vignoble. 100 domaines niveau très homogène et de haut niveau. Nous
inconnus ou très connus qui méritent un coup sommes ravis de leur décerner une quatrième
de chapeau cette année. étoile. « La Rochelle » 2015 a obtenu une note de
 18/20.

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 dits. There were three vintages in the
Decoding Moulin-à-Vent catalogue: 2014, 2015 and 2016. A classic one
Alessandro Torcoli, publisher and editor-in-chief of (2014, medium body, with good balance
the Italian wine magazine Civiltà del bere, shares between fruit, acidity and body); a super-
news of a Beaujolais cru taking steps to put itself powerful one (2015, dense wines, with such a
firmly on the taste map. He passed the Theory dark colour and incredible weight as to be
papers of the Masters of Wine exams earlier this reminiscent of Rhône Syrah’s); and a medium
year. one (2016, very wet at the start, with low yields
 caused by spring hail, but an excellent
 recovery during summer, rather looser texture
 on the palate, but more expressive on the nose
 right from the start with the sort of forest-floor
 notes that bring to mind a good Pinot Noir).
 The result was that I identified several
 particularly impressive lieux-dits – Les
 Gimarets, Les Vérillats, La Rochelle and La
 Roche, Le Mont/Rochegrès, Les Greneriers
 under the historic windmill – although of
 course it takes producers many years to
 understand and express fully the style of the
 terroir. Then more years for wine lovers to
 understand and memorise the differences.
 Even with great wines such as these ones, the
 differences are relatively minimal, mere
 nuances. However, the Moulin-à-Vent
What is the best way to relaunch a historic,
 producers are on the road to positioning
fascinating and complex winemaking region
 themselves among the greats with the
that relies on only one grape variety and which
 promotion of these terroirs.
has been crushed for too many years by a
single thought based on a simple and low-cost One of the easiest to recognise, for example, is
wine, namely Beaujolais Nouveau? It's a the elegant, mineral expression and citrus
difficult question to answer, but the first thing notes of loose granite soils with sand, such as
to do is to think of the world's great wines: Les Vérillats. La Rochelle also seems to have a
they are sought after for their smallest particularly distinctive note while maintaining
differences in diversity and expression of the same finesse: liquorice at the finish. The
terroir, for instance Pinots from the Côte d'Or Champ de Cour lieu-dit is a little similar but
or Nebbiolos from the Langhe. with more pronounced tannins.

This is why I think the idea of the Union des Below are some of the most impressive of the
Viticulteurs de Moulin-à-Vent (one of the most 100 terroir representatives I tasted. I
esteemed Beaujolais crus) is an intelligent one. recommend these as gems to lay down, but
Earlier this month, for the first time, they also (and this is a quality shared by
presented to a small international group of remarkably few fine wines) to enjoy with the
wine writers about 100 wines designed to utmost instant pleasure.
highlight the cru's different terroirs, or lieux-

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Terroir: Les Vérillats
Ch du Moulin-à-Vent , Croix des Vérillats
2014 Moulin-à-Vent
An intense ruby-red colour that lightens at
the rim. On the nose: strawberry jam, earthy
hints, citrus peel (tamarind). Light wild rose.
In the mouth it displays excellent texture
and an inviting savouriness, smooth tannins,
with a citrusy finish and an encore of forest
floor (mushroom). 19

Terroir: La Rochelle
Ch du Moulin-à-Vent, La Rochelle 2014
Moulin-à-Vent
The colour is dense ruby with a light purple
rim. Bouquet: citrus fruit (orange peel), sour
cherry syrup, champignon mushrooms,
earth and rock. The palate is powerful and
mineral (rock and earth), with marked
liquorice, excellent length, great for pairing
with food. 18.5

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 and CO2,” he says (but with more expletives).
Beaujolais is back at the “The fun is to follow the vintage and see how it
vinous high table goes.”

 Last year, one of London’s top sommeliers,
Beaujolais isn’t made from Pinot Noir, like the Xavier Rousset, launched his own beaujolais
red wines of Burgundy’s Côte d’Or. It’s made cuvée, Les Huit Ouvrées, in collaboration with
from Gamay – a grape with a gentle tannin, Château du Moulin-à-Vent. “I love the acidity,
bright acidity and red-berry/floral perfume that freshness and elegance of beaujolais. It makes
can be suffocating or transcendental, depending you want two glasses not one!” grins the former
on how you make it. Most is sold young, as head sommelier of Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons
cheap-and-cheerful plonk. and co-owner of Blandford Comptoir, Comptoir
 Café & Wine and Cabotte, wine-focused
In fact, there was a time when beaujolais ranked restaurants around London. Silky and earthy,
alongside the best of burgundy and bordeaux. As with a beetrooty sweetness and fine spice, Les
recently as 1950, top crus such as Moulin-à-Vent Huit Ouvrées 2015 is, as Rousset says, “pinoté –
and Fleurie were commanding prices on a par like a Pinot Noir”. Limited to 1,200 bottles, it’s on
with Pommard or Gevrey-Chambertin. the list at Annabel’s and in Rousset’s own
 restaurants – or you can buy a bottle in the
In the meantime, Beaujolais’ more affordable Comptoir shop for just £32. “I’ll always love
land prices are also making it a fertile breeding burgundy,” he says, “but as prices go up,
ground for emerging wine talent. One of the beaujolais is a wine I am buying and drinking
most hotly tipped is Julien Sunier, a wiry, more and more of at home. From a drinkability
mischievous-looking surfer who makes wine in point of view, it is the future.”
the more “natural” vein. “I arrived in 2003 in a
camper van with zero money, but having no “I love beaujolais,” agrees Ruth Spivey, award-
money forced me to create a style I liked,” he winning sommelier and founder of Wine Car
says. “It was only when I came here that that I Boot, a roving wine market that’s become
got into natural and organic winemaking.” His something of a bellwether for vinous trends. “It’s
methods may be low-intervention, but he doesn’t easy to drink, fun to drink and seems to impart a
want to be seen as a poster boy for the natural sense of joy around the table.” And if that’s what
movement. “We like natural wine, but not wine drinking looks like in 2019, count me in.
crappy wine with lots of yeast floating around

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 Un vent de fraîcheur souffle sur Moulin-à-Vent
TERROIR - Ce cru veut sortir de l'impasse des beaujolais nouveaux et prouver qu'il est capable
de produire des vins d'aussi grande qualité que ceux de sa voisine la Bourgogne.

En 1932, Henri Mommessin, à la tête d'une des En quelques générations, l'histoire s'est
plus grandes maisons de négoce du Beaujolais, inversée, le Beaujolais a décroché de la grande
croise un de ses amis, et s'engage alors cette Bourgogne, dont il est devenu le parent
conversation étonnante : "Tu as l'air bien pauvre. Jusqu'à l'aube de la Seconde Guerre
contrarié, Henri, que se passe-t-il ? - Ne m'en mondiale, une bouteille de Moulin-à-Vent se
parle pas. Je reviens de Beaune, où se tenait vendait pourtant le même prix qu'un premier
une vente aux enchères. J'avais dans le cru de Vosne-Romanée, alors qu'aujourd'hui
collimateur une parcelle de Moulin-à-Vent que l'écart va de 1 à 10. Nous pourrions disserter
je voulais absolument acheter, mais les prix des heures sur la raison de cette dégringolade,
sont montés trop haut et, du coup, l'affaire et à qui incombe cette responsabilité. Reste que
m'est passée sous le nez. - Ah, répond son ami. le constat est implacable. Pour autant, le
Et alors, qu'as-tu fait ? - C'est simple, comme je Beaujolais, et notamment le vignoble de
n'ai pas pu acheter cette vigne, l'argent que Moulin-à-Vent, regorge de vignerons de
j'avais apporté avec moi m'a servi à acheter le qualité et de vins remarquables qui méritent de
Clos de Tart, qui était proposé au cours de la retenir l'attention de tout amateur digne de ce
même vente." Quatre-vingt-cinq ans plus tard, nom. L'appellation s'étend sur les villages de
l'hectare de Moulin-à-Vent s'échange autour de Romanèche-Thorins, en Saône-et-Loire, et de
100.000 euros, alors que le Clos de Tart vient Chénas, dans le Rhône, sur un peu plus de 600
d'être vendu plus de 280 millions d'euros pour hectares plantés en gamay. "Moulin-à-vent
un peu moins de 8 hectares ! reste une appellation phare du Beaujolais, se
 réjouit Bruno Pin, son président. Elle a réussi,
 par la qualité de ses vins et de ses terroirs, à
 attirer de nouveaux venus et des investisseurs,
 notamment de la Bourgogne voisine."

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Des prix souvent imbattables terroir : La Roche, Les Rouchauds, Champ de
Cela fait déjà longtemps que des négociants Cour et Les Perrelles.
bourguignons ont décelé le potentiel de ce cru
et sont installés sur place, comme la maison Idem pour Jean-Jacques Parinet, qui, à 54 ans,
Louis Jadot, propriétaire du château des vend sa société d'informatique parisienne pour
Jacques, la maison Albert Bichot, propriétaire racheter le Château du Moulin-à-Vent à
du domaine de Rochegrès, bientôt rejoints par Romanèche-Thorins en 2009, en souvenir des
des vignerons comme Richard Rottiers, vins du cru que son père ouvrait pour les
originaire de Chablis et installé sur place grandes occasions. Et, là encore, le parcellaire
depuis 2007, ou encore Thibault Liger-Belair, est à l'honneur. "Nos 33 hectares sont situés sur
venu de Nuits-Saint-Georges pour monter un 140 parcelles différentes installées sur les
domaine à un jet de pierres du fameux moulin terroirs des Thorins, de Champ de Cour, d'Aux
qui a donné son nom à l'appellation. "J'ai eu, Caves, de La Rochelle, de Rochegrès... Nous
un jour, l'occasion de goûter à l'aveugle de produisons trois cuvées parcellaires et deux
vieux crus du Beaujolais avec des amis. Nous d'assemblages, explique Édouard Parinet, le
nous sommes tous laissé avoir, pensant que fils de Jean-Jacques. Il est vrai que nos terroirs
nous dégustions des grands crus de Vosne- sont particuliers. Sur la commune de
Romanée ou du Clos Vougeot", explique ce Romanèche se trouve une mine de manganèse,
dernier. exploitée jusqu'en 1919. Il se combine avec les
 oxydes de fer et donne cette typicité aux vins
De cette dégustation naîtra l'idée de s'installer du cru, avec ces notes épicées et minérales plus
dans le vignoble de Moulin-à-Vent. Il créera, marquées que dans le reste du Beaujolais."
en 2008, le domaine des Pierres Roses. "J'ai été Reste enfin les prix de ces cuvées, souvent
attiré par ces terroirs, différents de la imbattables. "Au caveau du Moulin-à-Vent, les
Bourgogne, où le calcaire règne en maître. Ici, quarante producteurs présents vendent leurs
c'est le granit qui domine, issu d'une extension vins entre 9 et 20 euros", précise Bruno Pin.
des volcans d'Auvergne." Thibault Liger-Belair
décide très vite d'isoler les différents terroirs de
son domaine, comme il le fait à Nuits-Saint-
Georges, et produit désormais six cuvées, dont
quatre parcellaires, qui portent le nom de leur

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 Les 50 personnalités
 de 2015
 Les maîtres des vignes.

Jean-Jacques Parinet pistes de progrès de ce vin du Beaujolais où il a
Château du Moulin-à-Vent élu domicile. Son premier geste a été d’acquérir
 des parcelles très qualitatives et d’en faire des
 cuvées dédiées, dites « parcellaires »,
Passer de la nanoseconde informatique au
 justement. Ainsi, la sortie de l’excellent La
temps de la vigne n’a pas forcément été un
 Rochelle en 2012 a fait une suite très attendues
chemin de roses pour l’entreprenant Jean-
 à ses déjà reconnus Croix des Vérillats et
Jacques Parinet au moment où il a acquis le
 Champ de Cour. Faire le Bourguignon en
Château du Moulin-à-Vent. Les premiers
 Beaujolais, c’est la bonne idée. Et maintenant ?
étonnements passé, il a très vite compris les

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 Des réseaux informatiques
 au Moulin-à-Vent
 L’ancien PDG d’Orsyp, Jean-Jacques Parinet, a
 choisi la vigne pour donner un second souffle à sa
 vie professionnelle.

Vingt ans après avoir créé Orsyp, une société qui profite aux ruches disposées dans les
informatique, Jean-Jacques Parinet s'est vignes par Brice Laffond, le maître de chai -,
retrouvé face à un dilemme classique: sélection parcellaire, nouvelle cuverie
réinvestir pour croître, ou céder son entreprise thermorégulée, voilà le domaine du Moulin-à-
de 300 salariés pour repartir, a cinquante- Vent non pas nouveau (un mot qui fait horreur
quatre ans, dans une nouvelle aventure ? au propriétaire) mais ressuscité. A l'arrivée des
« C'était tentant de donner une dimension Parinet, le domaine mal entretenu et quasiment
personnelle à ma vie professionnelle, de débrider un à l'arrêt vendait son vin en vrac au négoce. Le
peu ma sensibilité après une carrière sans affect château n'avait plus d'existence commerciale.
particulier. Et c'était une motivation Le nouveau propriétaire s’est imposé des
supplémentaire de construire quelque chose avec critères de qualité draconiens pour produire
mon fils Edouard, dans un contexte familial », des vins expressifs, avec de petits rendements
confie l'homme d'affaires parisien. et des élevages longs dans l’obscurité
En 2009, il a donc acheté pour 5 millions bienfaitrice d’une cave en pierres voûtées
d'euros le château du Moulin-à-Vent à comme en rêve tout vignerons. Des méthodes
Romanèche-Thorins, et ses trente hectares de quasi bourguignonnes, pour un domaine
gamay, attiré dans ce cru du Beaujolais par le administrativement situé en Saône-et-Loire,
souvenir des bouteilles qu'ouvrait son propre qui se refuse à écrire le mot Beaujolais sur ses
père pour les grandes occasions. Entre-temps, étiquettes: « Moulin-à-Vent doit retrouver son
le cru plombé par la crise du vignoble identité de cru à part entière, qu’il avait en 1936
rhodanien avait perdu de son lustre, tout quand il a été distingué en même temps que
comme le château où Alphonse de Lamartine, Pommard parmi les toutes premières AOC »,
voisin du Maçonnais, faisait en « amant ivre et explique Jean-Jacques Parinet, en vantant les
passionné » la cour à une demoiselle Pommier caractéristiques du socle granitique chargé en
en 1811 (et a ses 50.000 écus de dot). Les lourds oxyde métallique, caressé à longueur d’année
investissements consentis par l'entrepreneur par un courant d’air venu du Sud-Ouest. Ce
ont redonné sa prestance à l'élégante bâtisse souffle qui faisait autrefois tourner les pâles du
aux tuiles vernissées (1810), dont les fenêtres et moulin voisin, emblème de l’appellation,
le toit prenaient l'eau, ainsi que son prestige à concentre les raisons et les protège des
la production du domaine. Arrachages, maladies…
replantations, passage en culture raisonnée -

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Médaille d’Or
L’homme sait de quoi son terroir est capable.
Il brandit pour preuve la médaille d’or de
Philiberte Pommier à l’Exposition Universelle
de 1862, avec une bouteille qui datait de 1854.
« Moulin-à-Vent produit des vins de garde »,
assure-t-il. Prêt à sacrifier une partie de sa
production pour être à la hauteur de ses
ambitions. Le chef d’entreprise connaît bien
les vertus de la régularité du produit. Les
rouges racés du Château du Moulin-à-Vent,
domaine ressorti de l’oubli avec le millésime
2010, ont déjà gagné la confiance des
distributeurs étrangers et des plus grands
tables françaises, de Guy Savoy à l’Arpège en
passant par Pierre Gagnaire. « C’est la partie
commerciale qui nous a donné le plus de travail »,
affirme Jean-Jacques Parinet, tourné vers les
marchés internationaux. Il n’a aucune
nostalgie pour son ancienne vie, un peu
étonné de constater combien ses vieux
réflexes peuvent s’avérer utiles et
reproductibles. Son rythme a changé en
revanche. Fini le mode projet à horizon trois
mois, il a dû s’adapter au cycle des saisons.
« En informatique, tout va très vite, alors que
tout va très lentement dans le monde du vin. La
notion d’expérience se calcule en années et prend
tout son sens. » La vigne lui a donné un coup
de jeune: « Chez Orsyp, les collaborateurs
avaient en moyenne une trentaine d’année. A
Moulin-à-Vent aussi, même si moi j’en ai
soixante-trois! »

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 The Château has 130 parcels of vines, and
Château du Moulin-à- gradually they are being trellised, although it’s
Vent: a new Beaujolais not possible to use cane pruning in the crus – the
 vines must be head trained. One of the
star motivations for the trellising is to make it easier
 to work the soils. Romanèche Thorins, the local
 town, used to be the site of a manganese mine,
 and the soils here have a high concentration
 metallic oxides.
 They work the soil in all the vineyards rather
 than use herbicide. The plantings are high
 density, so they have over-row tractors. They
 will start doing this after pruning has finished
 and the vines are starting to bud. Then it
 depends on the weather as to how many more
 times they need to do it. ‘Under dry conditions, if
 it carries on until the summer, we’ll probably
 have to go two or three times,’ says Edouard
 Parinet. ‘If we have a humid spring, we’ll maybe
 need to do it six or seven times, so the amount of
Moulin-à-Vent is one of the most prestigious of work can be tripled. Here in Moulin-à-Vent the
the crus of Beaujolais, and has a reputation for soils are quite sandy so they are easy to work. We
making ageworthy wines. And there’s a new star don’t break so many tools, but the weeds can
on the scene, the revitalized Château du Moulin- grow very fast with some rain.’
à-Vent, which has been doing impressive work in One of the advantages of Moulin is that has been
the vineyards and cellars since being purchased a prestigious cru and so winegrowers have been
by the Parinet family. able to afford taking a bit more time doing things
The famous windmill of Moulin-à-Vent sits at the in the vineyard. ‘The treatment in Moulin has
heart of this 620 hectare Cru in Beaujolais, in the been historically better than the rest of the crus,’
village of Romanèche Thorins. And just below it says Edouard. ‘About half of the vineyard
is the impressive Château du Moulin-à-Vent, surface is treated in a good way and half very
which has been renovated extensively since it badly and roughly, but the situation for the last
was acquired by Jean-Jacques Parinet in 2009. 10 years has consistently gone in the right
Parinet originally came from Beaujolais but then direction. People have been working the soils,
made his money in the IT business, and for the and vineyards have been replanted, which means
last few years he’s been assisted by Brice that people want to invest for the future.’
Laffond, who oversees both the winery and the Edouard lists mildew as the main disease
30 hectares of vines the domaine owns. His son pressure. But their biggest challenge has been
Edouard also works with the domaine, and both improving the miserly yields from their
act as co-proprietors. vineyards. ‘We are in the range of 25-30 hl/ha.
In Moulin-à-Vent, the most interesting terroirs For 2018 we made our best yield with 33 hl/ha,’
aren’t at the top or the bottom of the cru, but in a he says. ‘I think the viticulture is creating a better
strip running east to west, and the Château is in environment and we are getting better results.’
the middle of this strip, looking across to the
border of the appellation (some trees mark this),
and over to Fleurie.

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One big issue in the region is the risk of hail and Beaujolais, France
frost. ‘In 2017 and 2019 we lost the equivalent of 13% alcohol. This is from a hail-affected vintage,
a complete vintage,’ says Edouard. ‘In 2019 half and all the wine was aged in used barrels
the crop was lost to frost, and they experienced because of the reduced quantity. This has a
the same in their vineyard in Pouilly-Fuissé. In brightness and delicacy, as well as some
2017 the problem was hail and frost: 70% of the structure with lovely raspberry and cherry notes,
crop was lost.’ as well as some fine spices. A very pretty,
In the winery, winemaking is in what’s referred expressive wine with a bit of grip, and probably
to widely as the ‘Burgundian’ style. The good for a decade in the cellar – more a
Beaujolais style involves whole bunches and short/medium term ager than a long. Very
carbonic or semi-carbonic maceration, whereas impressive, showing off the focus of 2017. 92/100
the Burgundian style may have some whole (04/20)
bunch, but the ferment is punched down and
pumped over, and then elevage is in small Château du Moulin-à-Vent 2016 Moulin-à-Vent,
barrels. At the Château, the degree of Beaujolais, France
destemming depends on the grapes and the 13% alcohol. A couple of punchdowns here as
vintage, but typically just 30% whole bunch is well as the usual pumping over, and aged in 75%
used. The maturity of the stems is a deciding stainless steel and 25% used barrels. This is a
factor. really nicely balanced wine, with some red fruit
When they pick, the grapes from the younger brightness as well as some darker black cherry
vines are destemmed. The tanks are filled with notes, as well as a grainy, grippy structure. This
the whole bunch first, then the destemmed fruit is mouthfilling and quite dense with some
on top. Each plot is fermented separately, and volume and fine herby hints. Brooding and
they allow fermentation to start naturally, ageworthy, but no problem tackling it now.
protected by carbon dioxide. Maceration is quite 93/100 (04/20)
long at 21 days. ‘We don’t have a religion,’ says
Laffond, referring to intervention. ‘If we have a Château du Moulin-à-Vent 2015 Moulin-à-Vent,
tank with a problem we inoculate or use a pied Beaujolais, France
de cuve.’ There is a lot of extraction at low 13.5% alcohol. Picked early in this very warm
temperature at the beginning, with punching the year (beginning 27 August), while the acidity
cap down. Then towards the end of fermentation was still good. This has the density of 2015, but
it’s just pump overs. Normally, ferments are wild not the over-ripeness that some of the wines
and sulfite levels are low (around 50 mg/ml show. It’s firmly structured and quite taut, with
total; this is just added at bottling). grippy tannins complementing the ripe berry
Jean-Jacques Parinet says that his first surprise and black fruits. Grunty but with lovely fruit, this
was to find that there was a real identity in the is a wine that may well age spectacularly. I’d
wines corresponding to specific areas in the certainly hold onto it for a while before
appellation, and overall he thinks it’s important broaching. 93/100 (04/20)
for the region to focus on the specificities of the
crus. His approach is one of aiming for high
quality. These are ambitious wines, quite
polished, but they’re also really good.

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Château du Moulin-à-Vent Les Vérillats Château du Moulin-à-Vent La Rochelle 2014
Moulin-à-Vent 2016 Beaujolais, France Beaujolais, France
13% alcohol. This is from a 4.4 hectare plot with Concentrated, structured and quite powerful
shallow (25-50 cm) soils composed of granitic with dense, quite grippy red cherry fruit.
sand, over granite bedrock. The vines are 45 Primary and grippy with nice focus. Still very
years old. This is pure, bright and vivid with tight. 93/100 (05/16)
lovely sweet, focused berry and cherry fruit.
There’s some depth here, with notes of iron and Château du Moulin-à-Vent Champ de Cour
minerals, as well as fresh acidity. There’s a Château du Moulin-à-Vent Champ de Cour
brightness here: there’s some structure, but not 2011 Beaujolais, France
too much, and the wine has elegance and Sweet appealing cherry fruit nose with fine
transparency, as well as a bit of meaty spices, subtle leather and herb notes, and a little
savouriness. Lovely stuff, with class and development. Mellow, mineral black fruits on
precision. 94/100 (12/19). the palate. Very attractive. 91/100 (05/16)

Château du Moulin-à-Vent Couvent a Thorins Château du Moulin-à-Vent 2005 Beaujolais,
2014 Beaujolais, France France
Carbonic maceration and no oak. Vivid and Earth, spice, fudge with some tar on the nose.
grippy with sweet, primary black cherry and Shows evolution. Has nice weight with sweet
blackberry fruit. Vivid with notes of violet and spices and a bit of earthiness. On its way out.
iron. Lovely fruit. 91/100 (05/16) 85/100 (05/16)

Château du Moulin-à-Vent 2014 Beaujolais, Château du Moulin-à-Vent 1991 Beaujolais,
France France
Powerful, juicy and intense with some mineral Cloudy with soy, earth and spice on the nose.
notes. Refined and structural with nice purity Faded colour with bricking. But it’s juicy, supple
and notes of iron and black cherry. Pure and and elegant with some earth and spices, and a
direct. 93/100 (05/16) bit of citrus. Quite elegant in its maturity with
 nice fresness alongside the first stages of decay.
Château du Moulin-à-Vent Croix des Verillats 90/100 (05/16)
2014 Beaujolais, France
Beautifully perfumed, aromatic and sweet with Château du Moulin-à-Vent 1976 Beaujolais,
floral black cherry and raspberry notes, as well France
as some dried herbs. Beguiling and complex Sappy, floral, elegant edge to the berry fruits
with good concentration. Pure and expressive nose. Perfumed, with cherries and plums. Has
with fine spices. Stylish and sophisticated. tar and fudge. Elegant style with maturity but
Polished but not overly so: thrilling in a modern also freshness. Supple, bright and very
style. 95/100 (05/16) interesting. Has evolved beautifully. 93/100
 (05/16)
Château du Moulin-à-Vent Champ de Cour
2014 Beaujolais, France
Assertive fine and floral with slight spicy
raspberry fruit on the nose. Slightly gravelly
with fine spices. Fresh and lively with tarry
raspberry fruit. Polished, with a bit of grip.
93/100 (05/16)

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Beaujolais, une génération « Les Thorins »: 4,18 ha; « Les Vérillats »: 4,42
 ha; « La Rochelle »: 4,22 ha; « Champ de
plus loin Cour »: 3,28 ha)
Le Beaujolais avait fini par se perdre dans les excès
du nouveau. Ça n'est pourtant pas une fatalité. Au commencement était Jean Jacques Parinet,
Qu'il soit village ou cru, le beaujolais peut être bon. fondateur d’Orsyp, société spécialisée dans la
Et même grand. Une jeune génération de vignerons gestion des opérations informatiques. Une
a décidé de relever le défi. On en a choisi treize. Ils belle réussite, sans affect. Quand il vend, il
vont changer la région. Et ceux qui boudent le discute avec ses fils d’entreprendre quelque
beaujolais vont changer d'avis. À la fin, c'est chose en commun. Édouard sort de l’ESCP. Ils
Michel Bettane qui nous rappelle d'où vient le « brainstorment » sur « les produits français de
Beaujolais. grande consommation à forte valeur ajoutée ». Cela
 débouche en 2009 sur l’achat du Château du
 Moulin-à-Vent, propriété alors déclinante à
 laquelle ils veulent redonner ses lettres de
 noblesse. Jean-Jacques s’occupe du gros œuvre,
 charge à Édouard de construire le réseau
 commercial. Et c’est là que Brice Laffond rentre
 en scène, car il faut un homme de la technique.
 Fils d’un régisseur de domaine en Champagne,
 Brice passe plusieurs diplômes dans le vin,
 dont un DNO (Diplôme National d’Œnologue)
 à Montpellier, et se passionne pour les
 questions de viticulture. Il intervient comme
 consultant. Les Parinet l’embauchent. Le
 vingtenaire a les mains libres pour quasiment
 reprendre à zéro le domaine. Ils forment une
 task-force, façon start-up. Brice fait toutes
 sortes d’essais sur les 130 parcelles avec pour
 objectif de rentrer les raisins les plus
 qualitatifs, tandis qu’Édouard parcourt le
 monde, et la France, pour convaincre des
 bienfaits du Moulin-à-Vent et de son Château.
 La propriété ne cesse de monter en puissance
 et ne va pas s’arrêter là.

 Les vins: la gamme est large. Le Couvent des
LES LOCOMOTIVES Thorins est le vin le plus accessible, suivi de la
Château du Moulin-à-Vent, à Romanèche- cuvée générique qui porte le nom du Château.
Thorins Suivent quatre parcellaires: Croix des Vérillats,
Edouard Parinet et Brice Laffond La Rochelle, Champ de Cour, et le très
Âges : 33 ans (6 mars 1984) et 29 ans (17 aout ambitieux Clos de Londres. Il y aura peu de
1988) | Vignes : 30 hectares en AOC Moulin-à- 2017, donc profitez des 2016 ou 2015
Vent (lieu-dit « Les Caves »: 5,16 ha; disponibles.

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 demand for fast-fermented Beaujolais Nouveau –
A new generation in to become Beaujolais' most important export
Beaujolais market, with the UK still in third place.

 We Brits apparently favour the medium-quality
 Beaujolais-Villages rather than basic Beaujolais
 tout court or the generally superior wines that
 carry the name of one of the region's ten special
 individual crus: Chiroubles, Régnié, St-Amour,
 Brouilly, Fleurie, Côte de Brouilly, Juliénas,
 Chénas, Morgon and Moulin-à-Vent, in roughly
 ascending order of body and longevity.

 I'm quite surprised by the fact that the UK is the
 world's third biggest beaujolais importer since I
 don't see nearly as much good beaujolais on
 shelves and lists in Britain as I'd like –
 particularly in view of the value to be had from a
 well-made example. Mind you, as might be
 expected in a region with players ranging from
 neophytes, through ambitious, highly leveraged
 enterprises, to relatively industrial-scale
 négociants, prices are all over the place.

 But apparently, as reported excitedly by Jean
Things are really looking up in the kingdom of Bourjade, managing director of InterBeaujolais,
Gamay. A version of this article is published by the host of a generic tasting in London last week,
Financial Times. beaujolais was the second most-stockpiled wine
 by British wine merchants laying in stocks in
Six years ago almost to the day I wrote an article advance of what they anticipated would be
on France's wine orphans – Muscadet and Brexit-induced chaos at the end of March this
Beaujolais, bemoaning the fact that these bargain year. (Champagne was the number one choice.)
wines were so routinely overlooked and that
wine production in each region was becoming The booklet accompanying the tasting gave
financially untenable. either ex-cellar prices in euros or recommended
 retail prices in pounds for all 194 wines shown.
The quality and ageability of Muscadet may have (Nineteen of them were white or rosé because M
soared but growers in the Muscadet region in the Bourjade thinks that is where the future may lie
hinterland of Nantes have suffered the most for Beaujolais but I cannot agree.) For the reds, all
savage series of spring frosts – three in the last made from Beaujolais' very own grape, the
four years. I'm delighted to report however that refreshing Gamay that comes into its own when
in Beaujolais just north of Lyon a corner has grown on granite-based soils, prices of the cru
definitively been turned. The economic doldrums wines varied from less €5 (around $5) ex cellar
of the region that resulted when the world fell for Vins Descombe's Ch de Pougelon 2018
out of love with Beaujolais Nouveau at the end of Brouilly to £35 ($45) on a UK shelf for one of the
the last century kept land prices attractively low most serious 2016s from the Château du Moulin-
for young newcomers with a different, more à-Vent. But the best wines of Beaujolais can
artisanal concept of winemaking. There is a easily rival burgundies that cost many times
whole new generation in the region now, as Julia more.
reported here and here, producing wines that
appeal to a new, younger market. At the tasting was Devon wine merchant
 Christopher Piper, who also makes beaujolais
Beaujolais exports were up 22% last year, with himself at Château du Pavé in Brouilly. He
demand particularly strong from what you reports in our Members' forum how he realised
might slightly carelessly call American hipsters, in 2010, 'our soils in Beaujolais were (technically
or at least influential American sommeliers. The
US has overtaken Japan – the last stronghold of

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speaking) "knackered" – lifeless and saturated drink now, certainly those from the crus. The
with agrochemicals. Gradually, we have 2015s were generally riper than the 2014s, whose
breathed life back to a mosaic of complex soils chief attribute was the freshness that is
and also reduced our yields to around 40 traditionally associated with beaujolais. The 2013
hectolitres per hectare. As the vines became vintage was very successful and examples from
healthier themselves, less and less organic sprays tiptop producers may well be tasting beautifully
(copper especially) have been necessary as well. now. Although beaujolais is traditionally
'He is far from the only producer to have turned associated with summer drinking, these are
away from industrial production methods in serious wines for drinking at any time of year –
both vineyard and cellar and he notes nicely filling the price gap below burgundy.
approvingly, 'a group of amazing youngsters in Gamay, after all, belongs to the same genetic
the Beaujolais region, who have played an family as Pinot Noir, the great red burgundy
integral part in the elevation of Beaujolais' grape.
reputation and quality.’
 The comments about vintages above apply
Unfortunately the wines of too few of these generally to cru beaujolais but Beaujolais-
amazing youngsters were, presumably for Villages, from the better-but-not-best land in the
reasons of local politics, represented in the recent region, can provide lovely summer drinking
tasting but I have included those I know in my served fairly cool, with or without food. As can
list of recommendations below. See others straight Beaujolais from the best producers, the
mentioned in Julia's two recent reports perfect red wine substitute for white wine.
mentioned above.
 RECOMMENDED BEAUJOLAIS PRODUCERS
What was very clear when tasting those wines UK stockists are given in italics.
currently represented in the UK was the
polarisation of styles. Some producers seem still Pascal Aufranc, Concept Fine Wines
to be making wine to a twentieth-century recipe Ch des Bachelards, Hedonism
in which concentration and ripeness are the most Dom de la Bonne Tonne, Huntsworth Wine
valued qualities whereas others, presumably Jean-Paul Brun, The Wine Society, BI Wines
most of those 'amazing youngsters', are making Dom Jean-Marc Burgaud, The Wine Society, Berry
round, fruity, gentle, often relatively pale (and Bros & Rudd, Cambridge Wine Merchants
sometimes not star-bright) wines whose style Domaine Chapel, Vino Vero, The Good Wine Shop
and impact are completely different. Then there André Colonge, Woodwinters, Quaff and many
are those with a long history of making others
wonderfully reliable wines in a style somewhere Louis-Claude Desvignes, Berry Bros & Rudd Jean-
in the middle such as Château Thivin, Jean Paul Dubost, Pierre Hourlier, Bottle Apostle,
Foillard – and Marcel Lapierre, whose wines are Montrachet
closely associated with the natural wine Jean Foillard, Roberson, Buon Vino
movement and are now some of Beaujolais' most Mee Godard, Raeburn Fine Wines
expensive, with every justification. Le Grappin, legrappin.com
 Ch des Jacques, Wine Direct
Both styles should last pretty well, and certainly Dom Lafarge Vial, Howard Ripley, Corney &
there is no need whatsoever nowadays to regard Barrow
beaujolais as a wine that needs drinking young. Thibault Liger-Belair, Berry Bros & Rudd, Stannary
In fact wines from the two most 'serious' crus Street
Morgon and Moulin-à-Vent positively demand Ch du Moulin-à-Vent, Stannary Street
ageing in bottle and can be superb at 10 years or Christophe Pacalet, Raeburn Fine Wines
even considerably more. Dominique Piron, Averys, Laithwaite’s
 Olivier Ravier, Strictly Wine, Corking Wines, Slurp
The rather classic 2016s from a challenging Domaine Rochette, James Nicholson, Lea &
vintage for growers are only just coming into Sandeman
their own now, even if the fleshier 2017s may Julien Sunier, Roberson, Wine & Greene
have more immediate appeal. The 2018s, many of Domaine Thillardon, Christopher Piper Wines
which were shown last week in London, have
great promise but most are still too young to

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 Although it is difficult to read the key to the
Moulin-à-Vent under soils on the map below, it does show the
scrutiny complexity of the soils, a 'mosaic of degraded
 granitic terroirs', in such a small region with 50
 lieux-dits (and an area of just 665 ha compared
 with Fleurie's 900 ha and Morgon's 1,200 ha),
 together with quite varied expositions on the
 hill at the heart of the cru, from which you can
 survey almost the whole of the cru itself. (…)
 All vineyard work has to be done by hand
 (Liger-Belair is trying to find a plough that is
 suitable for his bushvine vineyards) and yields
 tend to be low on the poor granitic parcels and
With rising prices in Burgundy, for land and
 ancient alluvion, especially for the old vines.
for the wines, Beaujolais is becoming an ever
 Liger-Belair's average is about 28 hl/ha when
stronger magnet not just for Burgundians but
 the Moulin-à-Vent permitted maximum is 52
for others from further afield, producers and
 hl/ha. The area is also quite windy, which
consumers alike, as Jancis outlined in 2009 -
 both contributes to vine health and tends to
the year of Beaujolais and Beaujolais 2009 -
 reduce the yields further. Both producers work
buy, buy! On the showing of this selection of
 at elevations of about 150-350 m.
wines from just two producers from Moulin-à-
Vent, one of the more northerly of the 10
Beaujolais crus and said to be the longest lived Moulin-à-Vent
and most concentrated, I believe the 2010 and
2011 vintages were as good as 2009 if not • Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée since 1936.
better, with a little more freshness. First Burgundy AOC with Nuits-St-
 Georges, Pommard, Pouilly-Fuissé,
Thibault Liger-Belair, now in Beaujolais as well Mercurey
as in Nuits-St-Georges, and Edouard Parinet of • Area under vines: 665 ha
Ch. du Moulin-à-Vent rode into London • Maximum yield: 52 hl/ha
earlier this year with a very specific mission: to • Mosaic of degraded granitic terroirs and
demonstrate the wide-ranging terroir within natural presence of underground metallic
Moulin-à-Vent by means of both a masterclass oxide
of recent vintages from different sites plus two • Thin granitic sands in the upper part
vertical tastings from one vineyard each, six • Deep clay-rich soils in the mid-level part
wines apiece, from 2009 to 2014. Whereas • Limestone rich soils in the lower part
every inch of vineyard and centimetre of • South-east exposition
terroir is pored over in Burgundy's crus, in • Elevation from 160 to 360 m
Beaujolais only a few insiders really • Average steepness of 5%
understand the very varied sites within • Style of the wines: concentrated, complex,
Beaujolais, let alone within its 10 single crus long-lasting wines
(listed in the appellations section of the Oxford
Companion's Beaujolais entry).

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Château du Moulin-à-Vent (CMV) (JH)Drink 2018-2028 - 17++
His father was responsible for the Parinet
 Ch du Moulin-à-Vent, Clos de Londres 2014
family's first vintage in 2009 and Edouard is
 Deep crimson. Power and depth but very
very keen that Moulin-à-Vent be taken
 smooth and full in the mouth. Rich and dense
seriously, hence this joint event with Liger-
 and savoury but with beautifully fine fruit.
Belair. Parinet highlighted the distinctiveness
 Dark and quite closed but deep and promising.
of their sites even though they are so close
 More silky than you’d expect in this young
together.
 wine. Elegant and sophisticated. Juicy and
- CMV dates back to 1732. The vaulted cellar of finely balanced. (JH)Drink 2019-2030 – 17,5
the domain probably dates back to the XVIIth
century Ch du Moulin-à-Vent, Le Champ de Cour
- First vintage by Parinet family is 2009 2014 Moulin-à-Vent Single vineyard (3 of 3)
- CMV exclusively located on Moulin-à-Vent Tight and super fine and mineral, with some
on 13 different lieux-dits graphite and herbal notes as well as great
- Harvest, vinification and ageing is made energy. Peppery and lively. Peppery graphite
separately, lieu-dit by lieu-dit is the aroma. Great tension and freshness. Has
- On average 7,000 cases produced every year greater austerity than the Croix des Vérillats
at a yield of 27 hl/ha and longer to come round. Great length. Great
- On average 15% use of whole bunch, 60% use acidity and really mouth-watering. Both juciy
of barrels (of which 15% new oak) and mineral. (JH)13% Drink 2017-2028 - 17
- The CMV vineyard is about 50 years old
(some vineyards are over 80 years old) Ch du Moulin-à-Vent, Croix des Vérillats
 2013
Ch du Moulin-à-Vent, Croix des Vérillats Moulin-à-Vent Darker than the 2014 and
2014 Moulin-à-Vent Single vineyard (1 of 3) smells richer and deeper and a little more
Bright cherry red. Sweet red cherry fruit and oaky. Some oak flavour on the palate but the
spicy but darker and mineral too. Sweeter tannins are fine and dry and a little chalky.
fruited than the Liger-Belair wines. A little bit Nicely dry on the finish. (JH)13% Drink 2016-
of stemmy freshness. Gently chewy on the 2024 - 16
finish, less fresh than some in this line up with
a hint of dried fruits as well as the fresh red Ch du Moulin-à-Vent, Croix des Vérillats
cherry. Creamy and very gentle on the palate 2012
but there is still a compact tannic structure, Mid cherry red with some brick at the rim.
with moderate weight in the middle. Long and Lovely nose of ripe and scented cherry fruit
fresh. (JH)13% Drink 2017-2026 - 16.5 with the sweetness of dried cherry but still
 such freshness and a light note of spice. Firm
Ch du Moulin-à-Vent, La Rochelle 2014 and more thickly textured, super generous and
Moulin-à-Vent Single vineyard (2 of 3) rounded, quite mouth-filling. Even so there is a
Dark, peppery fruit but so fragrant on the mid nicely dry mineral finish. Still with great fruit
palate. Liger-Belair interjects: ‘I would like to but starting to show complexity. With time in
have some La Rochelle’. Shows oak a little the glass: a hint of stems on the finish.
more on the palate - thicker texture. Needs (JH)13%, Drink 2016-2026 - 17
more time. Terrific freshness and promise.

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 We took a quick tour of the house for possible
Edouard Parinet photo locations, and I saw it much more as a home
 than a château, however impressive the view from
 the terrace, and however carefully tended the
Edouard Parinet was barely recognizable as the lawn. In the cuverie, the array of plastic measuring
smart besuited young man I had met in London vessels (which used to arouse dim memories of
tasting rooms, modestly and politely serving his unsuccessful chemistry lessons), sample bottles,
wine. Here, denim rules, and the hair is unruly. I and glasses still with that glowing red beauty spot
have the sense that I am getting in early on what above the stem all told of a day of serious tasting.
will be a notable career. But in the end, we settled for the cellars as our
 location. Above all, the search focused on the
I have never been so pleased to see a windmill. As ambient light—how it played on the subject’s
landmarks go, it’s a pretty good one, especially in features and what it evoked in the mind. Edouard
Beaujolais. My most recent trip—the first for some is on the tall side, so he had to be carefully
years—had been a navigational challenge due to positioned to make the most of the scant cellar
my GPS voiceover, with a comedic but light. This is always a testing time for those who
exasperating French pronunciation. I’m old school, would prefer their photographic experience to be
and I like maps. They work extremely well, even relatively brief and who have little inclination to
on a phone, as long as your destination is marked step into the limelight. But that is how Beaujolais
on it. But for some reason, the hamlet of Moulin-à- and this dedicated young proprietor are— once
Vent is not—despite the moulin in question being a you have seen the windmill on the horizon.
national monument… Happily, the Château du
Moulin-à-Vent website provides the answer in the
end. I don’t subscribe to Beaujolais being
Burgundian—here.
I am walking on pink granite, surrounded by
Gamay! The topography is utterly different. So,
too, is much of the famous and spectacular
landscape of the Mâconnais. My presence in
Beaujolais, then the Mâconnais, was explained on
this occasion by Château du Moulin-à-Vent’s
purchase of a vineyard in Pouilly-Fuissé, Domaine
du Roc des Boutires. I had twice been invited at
London tastings to visit this estate, and its Pouilly-
Fuissé acquisition encouraged me to continue my
journey south from the cliffs west of Mâcon into
these rolling hills, wandering lanes, and unmarked
junctions. As I arrived at the foot of the château
steps, a departing Roy Richards introduced me to
his host, and my subject, Edouard Parinet. He was
barely recognizable as the smart besuited young
man I had met in London tasting rooms, modestly
 and politely serving his wine to buyers and
journalists. Here, denim rules, and the hair is
unruly. Growing and making wine, I have noticed,
ages you fast in the face but builds a robust body
and constitution. I have the sense that I am getting
in early on what will be a notable career.

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 Morgon La Chanaise 2017 (91 points, $20),
The Distinctive Crus of Domaine de Fa Beaujolais En Besset 2017 (90,
Beaujolais $21), Boutinot Morgon Côte du Py 2018 (89, $19),
 and Henry Fessy Beaujolais-Villages Vieilles
 Vignes 2017 (88, $12).
As the pendulum of taste swings toward lighter,
more elegant wines, Americans are increasingly The most interesting wines come from the crus,
looking for alternatives to the blockbusters that which best display the region's distinctive
have been popular for so long. The Gamay-based terroirs. Moulin-à-Vent is arguably the most
reds from France's Beaujolais region are an coveted cru, producing concentrated and
excellent option, full of character and offering ageworthy Gamays. With 1,500 acres under vine,
great value. Moulin-à-Vent boasts more than 60 lieux-dits—
 sites with unique topographic elements—on pink
These are not the fruity Nouveau bottlings that granite soils with seams of manganese.
brought worldwide attention to this small,
bucolic region back in the 1980s. They are refined One winery working diligently to promote the
reds crafted by talented winemakers who are terroirs of Moulin-à-Vent is Château du Moulin-
decoding the region's complex network of à-Vent, which was acquired by the Parinet
terroirs. They still show the ripple effect of an family in 2009. Edouard Parinet co-runs the
influential group of winemakers, known as the winery alongside his father, Jean-Jacques.
Gang of Four, who spearheaded the return to
"natural," minimal-intervention winemaking in From the 2016 vintage, the estate's three single-
the 1990s. Their influence continues to be felt vineyard bottlings—the Champ de Cour (92,
across the world of wine. $64), La Rochelle (92, $68) and Les Vérillats (90,
 $60)—exemplify the cru's concentration and
The highest quality bottlings come from the hilly, structure, showcasing flavors of bright red fruit
northern section of the region, home to along with oral, mineral and spice accents
Beaujolais' 10 crus, the top tier of its AOC encased in polished, refined textures.
hierarchy. Below them is the Beaujolais-Villages
category, which includes 38 winemaking According to Parinet, three things make Moulin-
communes, followed by the broad regional à-Vent "the lord of the crus": the drying winds
category covering all 96 of the region's during harvest time (the cru is named after its
communes. The vast majority of wines produced iconic 15th-century windmill that exists to this
in Beaujolais are reds made from Gamay, but day); the eroded granitic, sandy-textured soils;
some rosés from Gamay and whites from and the presence of heat-reflecting silica in the
Chardonnay can be found at the Beaujolais and soils in the upper areas of the appellation. Each
Beaujolais-Villages levels. of these features creates more stress for the
 Gamay vines, resulting in smaller, more
Over the past year, I have reviewed more than concentrated berries than those of the other crus.
175 wines from Beaujolais in blind tastings at our
New York office. The vast majority of them are at Parinet does not utilize semi-carbonic
the cru level, and all 10 crus are represented. maceration, a typical winemaking practice in
Overall, quality is very good, with an average Beaujolais, which emphasizes fruit while
score of 88 points on Wine Spectator's 100-point reducing tannic structure. Instead, the grapes for
scale. At the top end, nearly 50 wines earned 90 his wines are crushed and then fermented in
points or higher. (A free alphabetical list stainless-steel tanks followed by aging for at least
[https://www.winespectator.com/articles/alph 12 months in mostly used French oak barrels.
abeticalguide-to-beaujolais-113019] of scores and
prices for all wines tasted is available.) "Traditional winemaking enables us to better
 show the diversity of terroir in Moulin-à-Vent
One of Beaujolais' many advantages is its relative rather than if we used carbonic or semi-carbonic
affordability. The highest-priced bottling in this vinification, which is known for really revealing
report is $75, while the average price overall is the primary aromas of Gamay," explains Parinet.
$25. This low price point yields some exceptional "And if you show the primary aromas of Gamay,
values, including the Domaines Dominique Piron you don't show as much diversity of terroir."

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