Fact sheet on organic cotton
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Fact sheet on organic cotton So serious are the negative impacts of chemical-intensive agricultural production that momentum for change has grown considerably in recent years. The trend toward more environmentally friendly production methods is supported by a variety of interests including farmers wanting to escape the chemical treadmill, enlightened companies under pressure of increased environmental regulation and competition, and informed consumers calling for greater social and environmental accountability. Certification "Organic", "organically grown" or "certified organic" are - just like it is with food - protected terms in the cultivation of the raw material cotton. They may only be used when the guidelines of organic farming are complied. The certificate for organic cotton guarantees solely the organic farming of the fibre. For making sure that clothing is free of harmful chemicals like azo dyes, solvents and heavy metals one must look out for textile labels like „GOTS – Global Organic Textile Standard“ or „Naturtextil IVN (International Association of Natural Textile Industry) certified BEST”. The textile labels GOTS and IVN are based on ecological as well as social aspects. The criteria go beyond statutory provisions and regard the production process starting from the production of raw materials to the processing to working conditions and storage. The label „Naturaline BIO COTTON “ stands for the compliance of strict guidelines along the whole clothing chain. Every step can be shown and tracked from the cultivation through to the finished product. Certification of organic cotton production adds credibility to the final product, assures the buyer of the organic status of the product and encourages payment of premium prices to farmers who engage in organic practices. Certification is a system which sets standards, ensures that organic standards are met and communicates compliance to consumers through appropriate labelling. When a grower or processor is "certified organic," an independent organisation has verified that the company meets or exceeds defined organic standards. The entire processing chain has to guarantee that ecological fibres are not being mixed or contaminated with conventional fibres. All organic raw materials must be clearly labeled and identified as such at all stages of the processing chain. Certified organic farms are inspected regularly and must maintain comprehensive records of their production methods. For a seemless transparency in the whole textile chain it is required that all production facilities that follow the spinning mill (dye houses, weaving mills, knitting mills, garment
manufacturers etc.) are certified. Processors, manufacturers and traders must undergo an on-site
annual inspection cycle.
Seeds
Conventional:
Due to the grand demand for seeds for the yearly sowing, cotton is a lucrative business for
international seed corporations. For that reason cotton is, just like some other crops such as
soy, corn or rice, an object of genetic modification: a commonly in crop integrated, patented
gene of the multinational concern Monsanto causes tolerance against a herbicide that
normally kills the plant completely. This new gene is alleged to be able to decrease the usage
of herbicides in general. In fact the opposite is the case: the tolerance of the GMO-cotton
against the total herbicide allows its increased usage. Therefore sales of Glyphosat increased
significantly. It is distributed under the name “Roundup” together with the transgenic
“Roundup-Ready"-seeds in a package from the same concern.
The genus Gossypium has a naturally high toxicity due to the Gossypol. All the same, the
cotton plant is being plagued by different pest insects like almost no other cultivated crop.
For the defence against insects Monsanto integrated a gene of the soil bacterium Bacillus
thuringiensis (Bt) which is foreign to the species and causes the cotton plant to produce
another toxin. However, this new toxin is only effective against rather harmless pest insects –
and also against different beneficial insects.
GMO-Cotton already caused drastic loss of earnings in the USA, however India and China also
induced Monsanto to compensation payments. It was not supposed to be brought into the
public that Bt-Cotton sheds its capsules all of a sudden or that it is especially prone to fungal
diseases.
Most notably to be feared is the impact of the Bt-toxin on beneficial insects and other plant-
or insect-eating animals as well as the hybridisation of the Bt-toxin into the natural
vegetation. GMO-cotton is cultivated on more than half of the cropland worldwide.
Organic:
Use of seeds that are in its natural state and also accessible for women.
Adapted variants substitute high-performance varieties.
Plant protection products and fertiliser
Conventional:
Use of approximately 25% of insecticides applied worldwide and 11% of pesticides (including
some of the most dangerous neurotoxins) even though cotton only makes up 2,4% of the
entire global agricultural area (acc. to Pesticide Action Network PAN). For every T-shirt 150
grams of toxin end up on the field.
o Significant health and ecological burden for the local farmers and residents of the
cotton plantations as well as for the nature and the ground water. Plant protection products are rarely applied with the necessary breathing
protection which is why many farmers have lung damages and diseases.
Acute intoxication and deadly accidents are also the order of the day in
cotton plantations in the south of the USA where pesticides are being
applied by plane. The long-term effects of pesticides on humans have been
becoming apparent since the middle of the 1970ies, for example at the Aral
Sea in the form of infectious diseases like tuberculosis and hepatitis,
respiratory diseases, cancer, high child mortality and deformities.
The world health organization estimates that three million people fall ill
annually by the use of pesticides and more than 20.000 die.
Plant protection products pollute the drinking water and due to leaching also rivers and
distant areas. The same applies to the leaching of artificial fertiliser in the rainy season: the
fertiliser causes additional algae growth in rivers and estuary mouths;, species extinction is
the consequence.
Pesticides and artificial fertilisers are being produced very energy-intensive. The basic
elements of the chemicals are often petroleum products.
Ever increasing costs for even more pesticides against the ever rising number of resistant
pests use up 50% to 70% of the proceeds.
Organic:
Refraining from toxic and non-biodegradable, chemically synthesised plant protection
products and fertilisers.
o No endangerment of the health of the farmers and residents.
o No burden for the nature and no pollution of the ground water.
o With the purchase of one single cotton T-shirt made out of organic cotton one can
save about 7 square metres of cultivation area from pesticides and artificial
fertilisers.
o Savings of big amounts of CO2 since natural fertilisers don’t need an energy-intensive
production and because of the waiver of pesticides. Organic cotton therefore
reduces the carbon footprint significantly.
Use of only natural pest killers and natural fertilisers.
o Sunflowers are being planted around the cotton fields that attract pests like the boll
weevil and therefore prevent an infestation of the cotton plants.
o As a general rule other plants are being planted in between the cotton plants that are
„daintier“ for the pests than the cotton plant.
o Cow dung, muck and compost as a natural fertiliser. The farming of animals is therefore an integral part of the cultivation of
organic cotton. By selling milk farmers can generate an additional income.
Preservation and improvement of the natural soil fertility.
Increase of the humus content in the soil which therefore can store more
water and CO2.
The soil is getting softer and more air-filled so that working on it gets easier.
A healthy and lively soil contributes to a good root growth and a better
tolerance of the cultivated plant against insect damage and drought.
o A decoction of the leaves of the neem tree copes with insects similar to composites
of animal bone ashes, garlic and the roots and fruits of local plants.
o Cow urine contains iron, potassium and magnesium and act as a fertiliser, at the
same time it drives away white flies.
Mainstays of every biological and sustainable economic approach are a fertile soil as well as a
species-rich environment with flowering plants, insects, birds and other animals in a natural
balance. Different plant species offer hiding and breeding place as well as food for various
insectivorous animals which in turn cater for pests not getting out of control.
Monoculture and crop rotation
Conventional:
Conventional cotton is cultivated intensively in large monocultures. The recurring presence of
roots of the same kind in the soil helps on building up pathogens. The resultant root
infections make it harder for the plant to absorb nutrients and to cope with weeds. Counter-
measures are particularly ploughing and the use of pesticides.
Monocultures are biologically poor (no biodiversity) and rob the soil of nutrients single-sided
and emaciate it (therefore more artificial fertiliser has to be used), they are more vulnerable
to pests and diseases (Consequence: increased use of pesticides).
Organic:
The natural soil fertility is preserved through foresighted planning of the crop rotation.
Moreover, crop rotation offers peasant farmers the chance to cultivate further organic
products for the feeding of their own family and for selling. That way they can be more
independent from cotton.
o In the first year the fields are being planted for instance with cotton and peanuts or
chickpeas, in the second year mainly with corn supplemented by vegetables and
wheat. The soil can recover after the corn harvest and some grass can be planted
that is being ploughed under in the next year to provide the soil with sufficient
nutrients for the cultivation of cotton in the third year. Mixed culture for instance with peanuts - which can grow on the same soil as cotton -
develop nutrients and provide the nitrogen that they absorb from the air in a sufficient
amount.
The cultivation in the rotation with food plants like corn, millet or rice interrupts the increase
of cotton pests. Since various plants are being planted at the same time the fields offer still
enough breeding and hiding places for insectivorous animals. Those animals ensure again
that insects don’t grow out of perspective.
Harvest
Conventional:
Cotton is often harvested by machine to decrease costs and to increase productivity.
o Use of chemical defoliants to remove the green weed to ease mechanical harvesting.
o The machines also collect immature or foul cotton as well as pieces of leaves and the
boll. That is the reason why T-shirts that can be bought for little money already look
old after the first washing.
Organic:
Organic cotton is being harvested manually at all times and therefore contains less unwanted
parts of remains of weed and stalk. Thanks to that one can take a pass on defoliants. Through
manual harvesting it is ensured that only fully mature bolls with white, long and durable seed
fibres move on to further processing.
Water
Conventional:
In general: Cotton needs a lot of water.
o Between 10.000 and 17.000 litres of water are needed during the growth period for
the production of 1 kilogram of raw cotton. In very dry regions like the Sudan this
figure can rise up to 29.000 litres.
Organic:
Organic cotton uses up much less water than conventionally grown cotton. This is because
with organic cotton chemical pesticides are waived and only natural fertiliser are used. As a
result the humus shares in the soil rises in the long term and it can therefore store bigger
water amounts.
When cotton is not or less watered its growth period is limited. The cycles of propagation of
diseases and pests can thus be prevented or shortened naturally.
Economy
Organic: The quantitative yield of organic cotton is slightly less than the yield of cotton that is treated
with artificial fertiliser. The economical yield is however the same or higher since the rising
costs for plant protection products, mineral fertiliser and credits do not apply and because
higher prices can be realised – currently about 20 percent - due to the higher quality of the
cotton.
Generating of a 30 to 43 percent higher income without having to work considerably more.
o On the one hand the farmers have to weed more than before but on the other hand
the biological pest control is less time-consuming than agro-industrial methods.
Moreover only half as much of nitrogen and phosphor has to be added to the soil.
Justice in terms of development and quality of life
Conventional:
On big industrially operated farms women are mostly used as cheap workers. Out of socio-
cultural reasons women have no access to the communities of the peasant farmers through
which chemical fertiliser and plant protection products are being distributed. Women are
also discriminated against in terms of the assigned land and are also not allowed to decide
what they will grow on it.
Organic:
With the introduction of growing organic cotton the number of plantings that have been
managed by women has significantly increased and continues to rise. They are being involved
directly in cultivation campaigns and workshops and have their own piece of land. Women
benefit from being able to do all necessary work by themselves and without any health risks,
for example during pregnancy.
Furthermore the necessary seeds for the cultivation of organic cotton and pest control as
well as fertiliser are available locally and independently from deposits (that are only
accessible to men) and cost much less than artificial products.
Diseases that are caused by residues in the water or in the air affect the life of not only the
farmers but also of entire village communities. The changeover to organic cotton allows the
quality of life to rise considerably. Also, but not solely, due to the higher prices that can be
realised with organic cotton.
Share of organic cotton compared to conventional cotton
Despite of the described advantages the number of organic cotton producers is still
vanishingly low and the farms are very small.
Organic cotton accounts for only roughly 1,0 % of the worldwide grown cotton. Longstaple
fibres, which are used for especially fine yarn counts, account for less than 5 % of the
worldwide grown organic cotton.
There are indications that organic cotton is moving out of its niche towards the mass market
because there seems to be an increasing interest from the supermarkets and largecompanies. Some apparel and textile companies are interested in blending smaller amounts
of ecologically grown cotton with conventional cotton. The purchase of organic cotton for
such programs expands the cultivation of organically produced cotton.
Clients may increase the demand by buying products that are made out of organic cotton. If
the demand increases, so will the supply. More farmers cultivate organic cotton and
therefore the proportion of organic cotton increases.
The textile sector is in general in an unprecedented (price) competition. Many companies are
trying to gain a competitive advantage through the quality of their products and an
ecological orientation. These goals can be achieved by using organic cotton.
Against this background the further market development that is affected by both an
increasing consumer awareness and increasing production of organic cotton, represents
another important chapter of the story of organic cotton.
Contamination with foreign fibres
Contaminations are unwanted parts like human hair, feathers, paper, fabric remnants,
synthetic fabrics, plastic foil, glass etc. that get into the cotton mostly unintentionally during
harvest, storage and processing.
Contamination can never be fully ruled out, be it in the case of conventional or organic
cotton. By the use of mechanic harvesting methods which is mostly used for conventional
cotton, one can yield a significant reduction of foreign fibres since human influence is
practically excluded. Organic cotton, however, is always picked by hand; therefore a higher
chance is given for any kind of contamination.
In nearly all regions where cotton is cultivated (the biggest growing area is India) there are
small peasants who to some extent store their organic cotton at home to deliver it to farmer
organisations at a later time. The temporary storage poses another risk for contamination of
all sorts.
No further check for foreign fibres takes place when the raw cotton from different farms is
being ginned and pressed into bales.
A first intensive detection and cleaning of foreign fibres takes place in the process steps from
the blow room to the spinning and winding department. Unwanted parts are being spotted
by optical detection systems and blown out. But even the most up to date systems can’t
guarantee an absolute detection of foreign fibres. As a quality spinning mill Gebr. Otto has
addressed this problem in particular and guarantees an optimum absence of foreign fibres by
cleaning the cotton at 5 different places in the spinning process. Despite this enormous effort
it is not possible to detect and clean out every single foreign fibre.Sources: http://www.global-standard.org/images/gots-version3_01march2011.pdf http://umweltinstitut.org/fragen--antworten/bekleidung/biobekleidung-680.html http://www.future-on-wings.net/konsum/biobaumwolle.htm http://www.pan-germany.net/baumwolle/en/hintergrund.html http://www.biothemen.de/Oekologie/rohstoffe/baumwolle.html http://3freunde.de/page/information/biobaumwolle http://www.armedangels.de/Bio-Baumwolle/
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