GEMUNITY GIT 2016 - UNDER THE FULL - SOLITAIRE INTERNATIONAL

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GEMUNITY GIT 2016 - UNDER THE FULL - SOLITAIRE INTERNATIONAL
Victor Tuzlulov illustrates the fascinating world of speciality cuts in gemstones.

                                       GIT 2016 –
                                   Under the Full
                                         Moon of
         GEMUnity
54 solitaire INTERNATIONAL decemBER 2016
GEMUNITY GIT 2016 - UNDER THE FULL - SOLITAIRE INTERNATIONAL
Gem Talk

       The world was treated to a special super moon on November 14, the
      closest full moon to Earth since 1948. This luminous moon, appearing
       14% larger and 30% brighter than normal, inspired the theme of the
      fifth biennial GIT conference, held on November 14 and 15 in the Thai
     beach resort town of Pattaya, on Thailand’s eastern gulf coast. CYNTHIA
                      UNNINAYAR reports on the proceedings.

          voking the importance of the Full Moon and the Unity        this, where international experts meet and discuss a wide range
          of the global gems and jewellery industry, the Gem and      of topics, are vitally important to the advancement of the sector.
          Jewelry Institute of Thailand (GIT) 2016 conference         From the identification of treatments and origin of gemstones
          kicked off before an enthusiastic crowd of some 500         to the determination of synthetics, both for coloured stones and
          participants and guests. The morning began with a           diamonds, research is vital for consumers and consumer trust.
welcome message by Siripol Yodmuangcharoen, chairman of                   Also presented at GIT 2016, to round out the sector, were
the executive board of the GIT, who talked about the institute’s      discussions by jewellery designers from around the world, as well
support of the Thai gem and jewellery industry, which is the third    as technological advances used in gem faceting and jewellery
largest in terms of exports from the Southeast Asian nation.          manufacture.
    His talk was followed by Dr. Pornsawat Wathanakul,
director of GIT. She discussed the importance of such global          Keynote addresses
meetings, whose goal is to improve regional and international         Speaking about the world of custom and exotic gem cuts, Russian
understanding and cooperation among scientists and major              expert gem cutter, Victor Tuzlulov, kicked off the morning’s
stakeholders, as well as to explore new methods and procedures        keynote talks with his presentation entitled The Fourth “C”:
in the gemmological field. She also briefly discussed the pre-        Today and Tomorrow.
conference excursion to Mogok as well as the post-conference
excursions to Chanthaburi, the world’s capital of coloured stones
and Trat, home of the celebrated Siamese ruby.

The importance of scientific research
Research of the kind presented at the GIT 2016 conference forms
the bedrock of the gem and jewellery industry. Meetings such as

Jayshree Panjikar of Panjikar Gem Research & Tech Institute, Pune,
India (left) presents Meenu Brijesh Vyas of Gem Testing Laboratory,
Jaipur, India, the award for the winning poster, which described
Green Spinel from Afghanistan.                                        The winning poster.

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GEMUNITY GIT 2016 - UNDER THE FULL - SOLITAIRE INTERNATIONAL
Giuliani, director of research at the Institute of Research for
                                                                      Development (IRD) in France.
                                                                         Rounding out the keynote addresses, Rupak Sen, sales &
                                                                      marketing director for Asia and the Middle East, Gemfields PLC,
                                                                      spoke about Coloured Gemstones - A Journey through Past,
                                                                      Present and Future.

                                                                      Research and topics
                                                                      In addition to oral presentations that were divided into two
                                                                      parallel sessions, posters from around the world displayed a
                                                                      wide variety of subjects. The many informative and interesting
                                                                      topics—both oral presentations and posters—were grouped
                                                                      into several categories and were presented by an impressive list
                                                                      of international experts from Europe, the Americas, Asia, Africa,
                                                                      the Pacific region and Greenland.

Editor and trends expert, Cynthia Unninayar,
presents The Dozen Dominant Design Directions
for Fine Jewelry in 2017.

   Next, US-based Jewelry Showcase editor and
trends specialist, Cynthia Unninayar, discussed
The Dozen Dominant Design Directions for
Fine Jewelry in 2017. Her presentation featured
the major design categories of fine jewellery for
2017 and their evolution.
   An informative discussion of Gem
Corundum Deposits with Regard to their               (From left) Pornsawat Wathanakul, Henry Ho and Didier Girard announce a global Ruby
Geological Origin was presented by Gaston            Symposium to take place in the fall of 2017.

The many poster presentations attract much interest from attendees.

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GEMUNITY GIT 2016 - UNDER THE FULL - SOLITAIRE INTERNATIONAL
Gem Talk

Li Geng, School of Gems, China University of          Myungji Ye, jewellery designer, Yemyungji brand, Seoul, Korea, talks about her designs
Geosciences, Beijing, discusses the Cultivation and   inspired by Dynamic Art, Dynamic Nature (Mineral – From the Birth of the Universe to
Market of Chinese Freshwater Cultured Pearls.         the Origin of Life).

Innovation, identification and characterisation
Although there was some overlap of categories, the largest, with
32 presentations, encompassed Innovation, Identification and
Characterisation in the gem world. Some of the presentation
topics included the Origin Determination of Demantoid
Garnet, Geographic Origin Determination of Blue Sapphire,
Micro-Radiographic Structures of Natural Non-Nacreous Pearls
Reportedly from Tridacna (clam) Species, and the Misty Two-
Phase and Multi-Phase Inclusions in Aquamarine from Shigar
Valley, Pakistan.
   In terms of treatments and synthetics, topics covered included
Blue Lead-Glass Filled Sapphires and Strontium Aluminate as an
Imitation for Phosphorizing Apatite.
   Among the diamond-focused presentations were
Characterization of Color in Natural Color Diamonds, and Hybrid          (From left) Pornsawat Wathanakul congratulates Barbara Wheat and
Diamonds: Natural Diamonds Overgrown with CVD Synthetic.                 Ioannis Alexandris on their winning bid (for charity) of a decorated
                                                                         krathong to be set afloat for the Loy Krathong festival during the GIT
                                                                         2016 gala dinner on November 14, under the Full Moon.
GIT’s master colour list
Aside from the questions of authenticity and treatment, the              bringing a semblance of standardisation to the popular names,
most important decision a consumer makes depends largely on              thus enhancing consumer confidence in the gem and jewellery
a gemstone’s colour. When it comes to rubies and sapphires, the          market. (www.git.or.th)
three most popular colour trade names are Pigeon’s Blood Red,
Royal Blue and Cornflower Blue. Today, these terms are widely—           International Ruby Symposium
and loosely—used by many gem labs, but there is no international         Near the close of GIT 2016, a joint announcement by Pornsawat
harmonisation when it comes to the exact colour or range, whether        Wathanakul, Didier Girard, and Henry Ho (chairman of the Asian
the stone is heated or unheated. As a result, confusion arises.          Institute of Gemological Sciences) proclaimed the creation of an
   To solve this problem, the GIT began conducting extensive             International Ruby Symposium to take place in the fall of 2017,
research on colour communication in 1999 with the objective of           with a mini-symposium being held at the Bangkok Gems &
establishing an industry standard for these colour terms. Following      Jewelry Fair in February 2017.
this 15-year study, the GIT has created three standardised master           For more information on the speakers at GIT 2016, and their
sets of ruby and blue sapphire to describe the famous colours. The       extended abstracts, see the proceedings at git.or.th/git2016/download/
sets are available to any lab that wants to use them, in the hope of     GIT2016.pdf. n

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