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INSIDE celebrating the UK's most exciting makers and creators
INSIDE
                                    celebrating
                                 the UK’s most
                               exciting makers
                                  and creators
The Art of Leather
                     issue 1
INSIDE celebrating the UK's most exciting makers and creators
W      elcome to Leather UK’s very first
                                    guide profiling some of the most
                             exciting makers working with leather in
                             the UK today. These include artisans
                             working in the worlds of fashion,
                             jewellery, accessories, interiors, art,
                             sculpture, collectibles and more.
                             As the trade body for the UK leather industry, we felt that
                             it was high time we provided a platform to bring together
                             these brilliant creators to showcase the modern face of the
                             British leather sector. By collating them in one place, we
                             want to make it easier for people to discover them and the
                             beautiful items they produce. From intricately woven leather
                             handbags, to the lightest shearling jackets, to incredible art
                             installations and playful sheepskin furniture and beyond.
                                 Consumers are changing. We increasingly want to know
                             where the things we buy and use come from, and how
                             they are produced. Leather is a by-product and by its very
                             nature sustainable, durable and beautiful – all qualities
                             synonymous with the slowing of rapid consumption required
                             in today’s world.
                                 While each of our featured makers is unique in what they
                             do, they are united in their desire to make responsibly and
                             mindfully, wasting as little as they can and sourcing locally
                             where possible. Farm to fork becomes farm to bag, or shoes
                             or coat – quite literally so in the work of Alice Robinson.
                                 Our makers also share a desire to support their industry,
                             passing on their skills to young makers. Many of them
                                                                                                                      CONTENTS
                             are preserving or even rediscovering age-old techniques,
                             bringing them to life with a fresh twist in contemporary                                 Martina Spetlova fashion designer 4
                             items. We like to think of it as looking to the past to inform                           Baa Stool interiors 6
                             a more responsible future.
                                 Mindful of the heritage of their craft, our makers are                               Tania Clarke Hall jewellery designer 8
                             also using modern technologies such as blockchain to                                     Iseabal Hendry accessories designer 10
                             protect provenance. They also harness and push the                                       Welsh Organic Tannery sheep, goat and deerskin tannery 12
The Art of Leather issue 1

                             physical boundaries of leather, forcing us to re-evaluate the
                             possibilities of this natural by-product.                                                Karl Donoghue fashion designer 14
                                 It’s been a real pleasure to compile our very first                                  Mark Evans artist 16
                             collection of the finest examples of leather creativity                                  J. & F.J. Baker & Co Ltd traditional oak bark tannery 18
                             in the UK today. We hope you and your readers
                             enjoy discovering our featured makers and their                                          Warriner Leather Works leather artisan 20
                             beautiful creations.                                                                     Georgina Brett Chinnery leather artist and sculptor 22
                                                                                                                      Grady + Robinson regenerative farming fashion design 24
                                         rs
                             Jessica Aie                                                                              Owen Barry sheepskin fashion and interiors 26
                                                                                                                      Spire Leather tannery 28
                             Business Development Manager
                                                                                                                      Charles Laurie London leather artisan 30
                             07591 207375
                             jessicaaiers@leatheruk.org                                                               Joshua Millard fashion designer 32
                                                                                              hoto by Jamie Trounce

                                                                                                                      Front cover image: A Joshua Millard design
                                                                                                                      Back cover image: A Martina Spetlova design. Photo by Sylwana Zybura. Stylist: Tomas C Toth
INSIDE celebrating the UK's most exciting makers and creators
4                                  Pictured:
                             Martina Spetlova
                                                                                                                                                                                                              ethically sourced. The brand is
                                                                                                                                                                                                              also building on the blockchain
                                                                                                                                                                                                              technology that identifies each
                                                                                                                                                                                                              item so that in the future,
                                                                                                                                                                                                              customers will be able to access
                                                                                                                                                                                                              repair and recycling services.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Until the start of the pandemic,
                                                                                                                                                                                                              the brand’s signature artisan
                                                                                                                                                                                                              handweaving was carried
                                                                                                                                                                                                              out by a small team of Syrian
                                                                                                                                                                                                              refugee women in Turkey,
                                                                                                                                                                                                              trained by Martina herself and
                                                                                                                                                                                                              run in collaboration with an
                                                                                                                                                                                                              independent NGO and a social
                                                                                                                                                                                                              enterprise called Small Project
                                                                                                                                                                                                              Istanbul. Production methods that
                                                                                                                                                                                                              empower disadvantaged women
                                                                                                                                                                                                              will continue to sit at the heart of

                    MARTINA
                                                                                                                                                                                                              her vision.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  As she maps out her future,
                                                                                            Her technique, a brilliant                                                   introduced a range of bags in the
                                                                                                                                                                                                              Martina is focused on selling
                                                                                            marriage of textiles know-how                                                same woven leather in a variety
                                                                                                                                                                                                              directly to customers as well as

                     SPETLOVA
                                                                                            from her BA and her fashion MA                                               of shapes, size and colourways.
                                                                                                                                                                                                              working on her bespoke practice.
                                                                                            at Central St Martins, involves                                                 Her collared bomber jackets
                                                                                                                                                                                                              She is also experimenting with
                                                                                            weaving lengths of coloured satin                                            in contrasting weaves are
                                                                                                                                                                                                              the ever-growing rental markets,
                                                                                            tape into pieces of leather that                                             hard-working pieces fit for any
                                                                                                                                                                                                              in an effort to make her designs
                                                                                            she cuts into, to create a unique                                            occasion. The brand’s woven
                                                                                                                                                                                                              more widely accessible. But it
                                                                                            textile that has the strength of                                             items look just as incredible in

                                                M
                                                                                                                                                                                                              is the prospect of bringing her
                                                       artina Spetlova’s stunning woven     leather and the softness and                                                 block colours as they do in their
                                                                                                                                                                                                              distinctive woven designs into
                                                       leather techniques have graced       movement of fabric.                                                          signature colour combinations.
                                                                                                                                                                                                              interiors projects, small and large,
                                                                                               The result is a range of                                                  The all-black leather bustier and
                                                the runway at London Fashion Week           wearable garments, from coats to                                             dress are timeless items to be
                                                                                                                                                                                                              that represents the next chapter
                                                                                                                                                                                                              in her career.
                                                and caught the discerning eye of            jackets to skirts and dresses that                                           worn again and again, lifted by a
                                                Selfridges who sell the colourful jackets   work together brilliantly, each                                              wonderful iridescence that comes
                                                                                            a talking point in its own right,                                            from the satin weave and playful
                                                that she is best known for.                 yet retaining a casual, modern                                               contrast of textures.                ‘FOR THE
                                                                                            air that is never ‘try hard’. More                                              Craftsmanship and incredible
                                                                                            recently Martina Spetlova has                                                attention to detail are the          CONSCIOUS
                                                martinaspetlova.com
                                                                                                                                                                         hallmarks of Martina Spetlova’s
                                                                                                                                                                         designs. The inside of each
                                                                                                                                                                                                              CONSUMER, THIS
                                                Instagram: @martinaspetlova                                                                                                                                   IS SUSTAINABLE
The Art of Leather issue 1

                                                                                                                                                                         garment is as beautiful as the
                                                                                                                                                                         outside, and finishings and
                                                                                                                                                                         fastenings are minimal, allowing     LUXURY AT
                                                                                                                                                                         the leather/satin weave to speak     ITS MOST
                                                                                                                                                                         for itself.
                                                                                                                                                                            For the conscious consumer,       THOUGHTFUL’
                                                                                                                                                                         this is sustainable luxury at its
                                                                                                                                                                         most thoughtful, supported by

                                                                                                                        Photo by Sylwana Zybura. Stylist: Tomas C Toth
                                                                                                                                                                         a commitment to responsible
                                                                                                                                                                         making. The ‘satin’ tape and
                                                                                                                                                                         bag linings are made from
                                                                                                                                                                         Econyl®, a regenerated nylon
                                                                                                                                                                         waste, and the smallest leather
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Next
                                                                                                                                                                         offcuts and scraps are used
                                                             Photo by Kasia Wozniak

                                                                                                                                                                         alongside larger leather pieces in         Baa Stool
                                                                                                                                                                         each garment, all traceable and
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6

                             BAA
                               STOOL
                               A     Baa Stool creation delivers
                                     a moment of pure joy. It’s
                               impossible not to smile when you see
                                                                                 ‘MICHELLE DREAMS
                                                                                                                     workshop has inspired some of
                                                                                 IN SHEEPSKIN,                       the company’s most innovative
                               one – indeed the company’s mantra
                               is ‘style with a smile’. Their products
                                                                                 CONSTANTLY                          creations. Baa Stool’s quirky
                                                                                                                     door accessories such as draught
                               inspire oohs and aahs and provide                 THINKING UP                         excluders and doorstops in the

                               comfort and delight in homes all over             BRILLIANT NEW                       shape of birds use some of the
                                                                                                                     smaller pieces of sheepskin
                               the UK and in the US which has also               IDEAS FOR USING                     that would otherwise end up          Pictured: Michelle Bartleet-Greavey
                               discovered the Baa Stool pleasure                                                     as throwaway scraps. The
                                                                                 THIS MOST TACTILE                   company’s opulent, best-selling
                               factor.                                                                                                                    gazed out at the sheep grazing in
                                  In the eight years since Michelle Bartleet-
                                                                                 AND VERSATILE OF                    Union Jack rug, available as a       the fields outside her house, she
                                                                                                                     made-to-order item also includes
                               Greavey first came up with the idea of covering   MATERIALS’                          some of these smaller cuts. The
                                                                                                                                                          had a flash of inspiration. Why
                                                                                                                                                          not cover a stool with sheepskin?
                               a footstool in sheepskin, the range has grown                                         tiniest pieces of sheepskin are      She sourced a couple of fleeces
                               to include stools, tuffets, pouffes and benches          Michelle dreams in           even used to stuff cushion pads      locally – to this day the majority
                               in different shapes, sizes and colours, from             sheepskin, constantly        as part of the brand’s drive         of sheepskin used in Baa Stool
                               natural tones to bright jewel-like hues. Now             thinking up brilliant new    to eliminate synthetics              items are sourced from UK
                               Baa Stool customers can dial up the snuggle              ideas for using this most    where possible.                      flocks – and set to work. Several
                               factor at home with sheepskin-covered                    tactile and versatile of        The story behind Baa Stool is     weeks later and a fair bit of trial
                               armchairs, gorgeous patterned rugs, cushions             materials in a range of      an unusual one. After being made     and error, Michelle took her
                               and even lampshades. The company’s hug of
The Art of Leather issue 1

                                                                                        interiors items. She         redundant from her 25 year-long      experimental stools to local fairs
                               a ‘Polar Bear Chair’ was brought in by ITV’s             explains that as well as     corporate career Michelle had an     and farmers markets where she
                               Dancing on Ice to introduce a fluffy, feel-good          the obvious, Baa stands      encounter with a fortune-teller      quickly realised she had a hit on
                               factor into the presenters’ cabins.                      for brave, accountable       who saw her surrounded by pin        her hand.
                                                                                        and awesome.                 cushions and other sewing items.        Eight years since that initial
                                                                                        Originality is the brand’s   Originally from North Wales          stroke of genius, Baa Stool has
                                                                                        byword, always striving      she’d recently moved back to the     gone on to create an entirely new
                               baastool.co.uk                                           to create something that     area where she grew up, but was      interiors category and concept
                                                                                        is unlike anything else      travelling so much for work that
                               Instagram: @baastool                                                                                                       that has earned it an ardent fan
                                                                                        that’s available to buy.     she’d had little time to enjoy the   base at home and abroad.
                                                                                        If an idea doesn’t excite    local countryside.
                                                                                        the Baa Stool team or           Inspired by the thought of a
                                                                                        make them smile, then it     new direction she threw herself
                                                                                        won’t get made!              into a two-year professional               Next
                                                                                            Her dedication to        upholstery course run by
                                                                                        ethical production           the Association of Master
                                                                                                                                                                Tania
                                                                                        methods and eliminating      Upholsterers and Soft Furnishers           Clarke Hall
                                                                                        waste in her North Wales     (AMUSF). Then one day as she
INSIDE celebrating the UK's most exciting makers and creators
8
                                                                                                                Pictured: Tania Clarke Hall

                                                                                                                                       None of this comes as a surprise          foil or coloured edge dyes ranging
                                                                                                                                       when you learn that Tania first           from subtle metallics to bright reds.
                                                                                                                                       studied chemistry before turning          The several hundred delicate 22ct
                                                                                                                                       to textiles, then jewellery, studying     gold lines on her ‘Freehand Lines
                                                                                                                                       under Caroline Broadhead, a key           Necklace’ are tooled by hand to
                                                                                                                                       figure in the conceptual jewellery        create a dynamic line pattern. Each
                                                                                                                                       movement of the late 70s/early            necklace is therefore unique and
                                                                                                                                       80s and now Professor Emerita at          like many of her pieces available in
                                                                                                                                       Central Saint Martin’s.                   limited numbers. Her ‘Rhapsody in
                                                                                                                                          The three disciplines interact,        Pearl’ necklace combines dozens of
                                                                                                                                       sometimes unexpectedly yet always         pearls with black leather in an edgy
                                                                                                                                       seamlessly in a Tania Clarke Hall         take on the classic string of pearls,
                                                                                                                                       piece. A self-confessed visual            inspired by the New York skyline
                                                                                                                                       butterfly and constant experimenter,      and Gershwin’s Rhapsody
                                                                                                                                       there are myriad influences at play       in Blue.
                                                                                                                                       in her work, from architecture,              Her long, gold lariat
                                                                                                                                       sculpture and 1960s papercraft to         necklaces which featured         ‘HER PALETTE INCLUDES
                                                                                                                                       the sights and sounds of her daily        in her earliest collections
                                                                                                                                       cycle around London. They all             when she started out             BOLD PRIMARY
                                                                                                                                       contribute to her ‘what if’ ideas -       13 years ago are classic         COLOURS AS WELL AS

                                                    TANIA
                                                                                                                                       things that catch her eye, make her       items that are still best
                                                                                                                                       smile and prompt her to explore how       sellers. And that’s also         BLACK LEATHER PIECES’
                                                                                                                                       to translate them in her work.            the joy of owning a Tania
                                                                                                                                          The results are gorgeous,              Clarke Hall piece, it’s                  surface of the hide that many leather

                                                    CLARKE HALL
                                                                                                                                       collectable pieces that are hugely        completely timeless. Rather than a       artists have traditionally chosen. She
                                                                                                                                       wearable and incredibly versatile.        constant stream of new collections       also feels liberated to be working
                                                                                                                                       Shapes including twists, ruffles, lines   that chase trends, that come and go,     in a field, using a material where
                                                                                                                                       and freeform lend their names to          Tania focuses on creating pieces that    few have gone before and where

                                                    T
                                                                                                                                       some of her collections. Her palette      are meaningful to her and so exist       there are so few references and
                                                        ania Clarke Hall’s jewellery turns heads and
                                                                                                                                       includes bold primary colours as          beyond time.                             conventions.
                                                        starts conversations. Her pieces are striking in                               well as black leather pieces that            Tania Clarke Hall has a deep love         As well as her collections, Tania
                                                    size, shape, form, colour and technique. Indeed,                                   become extraordinary with the             for the material she has dedicated       also creates unique, one off pieces,
                                                    Prue Leith is a fan and is often seen wearing one of                               addition of freshwater pearls, gold       herself to. She is fascinated by the     as commissions for clients who
                                                                                                                                                                                 natural beauty of the long pieces        love her aesthetic but want an
The Art of Leather issue 1

                                                    Tania’s designs. But what’s most surprising is the
                                                                                                                                                                                                    of strong saddle      entirely bespoke piece. Yet what
                                                    core material she uses in her designs – leather. Yet it’s                                                                                       leather that she      excites her most looking forwards,
                                                    leather as you’ve never seen it before – a subtle yet                                                                                           works with as well    is the challenge she has set herself
                                                    bold, innovative, playful yet sophisticated approach                                                                                            as its technical      of creating a number of unique
                                                                                                                                                                                                    possibilities. But    statement pieces each year, taking
                                                    to working with the material, and ultimately to
                                                                                                                                                                                                    it’s what happens     time to experiment with fresh,
                                                    jewellery design itself, that breaks conventions.                                                                                               when you cut          innovative designs. We can’t wait to
                                                                                                                                                                                                    into the material     see the results.
                                                    taniaclarkehall.com                                                                                                                             that really excites
                                                                                                                                                                                                    her; the complex,
                                                    Instagram: @tania_clarke_hall
                                                                                                                                                                                                    fibrous texture of
                             Photo by Pari Naderi

                                                                                                                                                                                                    the cut edges and                Next
                                                                                                                                                                                                    the possibilities
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Iseabal Hendry

                                                                                                                                                                                           Photo by Pari Naderi
                                                                                                                                                                                                    they represent, as
                                                                                                                                                                                                    opposed to the
INSIDE celebrating the UK's most exciting makers and creators
10

                                                                            Photo by Isabelle Law
                             ‘AN ISEABAL
                             HENDRY HANDBAG
                             IS A COLLECTOR’S
                             ITEM, AN
                             EXQUISITE
                             PIECE OF

                                                                                                                                                                      Photo by Calum Douglas

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Photo by Isabelle Law
                             CRAFTSMANSHIP
                             TO BE TREASURED’

                                  ISEABAL
                                                                                                                            Her incredible technique saw          Yet it all happened by chance.
                                                                                                                            its first commercial outing           A race by fellow students to
                                                                                                                            in her capsule collection of          secure the biggest, ‘best’ pieces    ‘ISEABAL HENDRY
                                                                                                                            handbags made from the softest,       of leather during a project set      WEAVES EACH

                                    HENDRY
                                                                                                                            vegetable-tanned leather in a         by the Glasgow School of Art
                                                                                                                            range of greens, tans and blues,      and the Bridge of Weir Leather       OF HER BAGS BY
                                                                                                                            a reflection of the natural world
                                                                                                                            around her. That range has now
                                                                                                                                                                  Company saw Iseabal determined
                                                                                                                                                                  to make something beautiful out
                                                                                                                                                                                                       HAND, AND HER
                                                                                                                            sold out but fans of Iseabal’s        of the slivers and trimmings cast    HAND ALONE’
                                                                                                                            work will be delighted to know        aside by her peers. She has since

                             I seabal Hendry’s hand-woven leather
                               textiles are wonderfully intricate,
                             inspired by the traditional basket
                                                                                                                            that a new limited-edition
                                                                                                                            collection of her signature curved
                                                                                                                            handbags became available
                                                                                                                                                                  made an artform of weaving
                                                                                                                                                                  narrow pieces of vegetable
                                                                                                                                                                  tanned leather – around 7mm in
                                                                                                                                                                                                       Iseabal is now looking beyond
                                                                                                                                                                                                       her handbag collection, exploring
                                                                                                                            again in mid-2021. This time          width - into her glorious leather
                             making, roof thatching and carpentry of                                                        the collection incorporates new       textiles. Her bags are curved and
                                                                                                                                                                                                       new ways and artforms to
                                                                                                                                                                                                       showcase her craft. She has
                             her Scottish Highland home. But as an

                                                                                                    Photo by Isabelle Law
                                                                                                                            colours including a bright apple      round by design – not only are
                                                                                                                                                                                                       already started to work on
                             embroidery graduate from the Glasgow                                                           green and rosy pink to add            they practical and wonderful to
                                                                                                                                                                                                       interiors projects and her
                                                                                                                            to her existing palette. Future       look at, echoing the steam wood
                             School of Art, it is Iseabal’s delicate                                                                                                                                   framed weaves are increasingly
                                                                                                                            launches will also include a          bending she practiced when
                             take on leather, which she combines                                                            much-requested and coveted            learning traditional boat-building
                                                                                                                                                                                                       in demand, made to order as
                                                                                                                                                                                                       private commissions in bespoke
                             with fine cotton before hand-weaving,                                                          card-holder.                          skills; they also allow even the
                                                                                                                                                                                                       sizes and colours, designed to
The Art of Leather issue 1

                             that makes her work so unique.                                                                     Iseabal Hendry weaves each of     smallest leather trimmings to
                                                                                                                                                                                                       be wall-mounted. A commission
                                                                                                                            her bags by hand, and her hand         be used.
                                                                                                                                                                                                       from a hotel or other public
                                                                                                                            alone, in the Scottish Highlands.        Her dedication to zero waste
                                                                                                                                                                                                       space or a collaboration with an
                                                                                                                            It is a slow, meditative process      is also a cornerstone of her
                                                                                                                                                                                                       interior designer are all part of
                                                                                                                            that she would not change for         sustainable lifestyle in the West
                                                                                                                                                                                                       the plan. And a place in Collect,
                                                                                                                            the world. For her, it is not about   Coast Highlands of Scotland
                                                                                                                                                                                                       the international art fair for
                             iseabalhendry.com                                                                              volume or constantly producing        where she grew up. Having been
                                                                                                                                                                                                       contemporary craft and design is
                             Instagram: @iseabalhendry                                                                      new designs. Each collection can      brought up as a vegetarian, she
                                                                                                                                                                                                       high on her wish-list. We think it’s
                                                                                                                            be several years in the making,       feels a responsibility and respect
                                                                                                                                                                                                       just a question of time.
                                                                                                                            amounting to no more than             towards the original animal, that
                                                                                                                            around fifty items in total, using    means wasting as little of that
                                                                                                                            only naturally vegetable tanned       precious resource as possible.
                                                                                                                            leather responsibly sourced           This commitment to reducing
                                                                                                                            from Italy. An Iseabal Hendry         waste is one that her entire craft       Next
                                                                                                                            handbag is a collector’s item, an     centres around.                          Welsh Organic
                                                                                                                            exquisite piece of craftsmanship
                                                                       Pictured:                                            to be treasured.                                                               Tannery
                                                                       Iseabal Hendry
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12

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        bark) to treat the skins, as part
                                 Pictured:
                                Steve and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        of a four-to-six-week process
                              Emma Allum                                                                                                                                                                                                that involves only water, salt (for
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        pickling the skin) and formic acid,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        a naturally occurring substance.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            The result is a skin that
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        preserves the softness and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        strength of the original fleece
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        and enhances its natural colour
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        and markings. The slow, natural
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        process gives rise to a thick, high
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        quality, long lasting product,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        and best of all, because the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        fleece is washed several times
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        during the tanning process, it’s
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        fully washable!

                                                                                                                         Photo by Roger Dangerfield
                             WELSH
                                                                                                                                                           Today, their Carmarthenshire          anywhere locally to process the            Today, Welsh Organic mainly
                                                                                                                                                           tannery transforms around 1,000       skins left over from the small-        tans local fleeces that are
                                                                                                                                                           skins a year into the softest sheep   scale farming that allows her          delivered in person but equally
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        have many skins sent to it from

                              ORGANIC TANNERY
                                                                                                                                                           and goatskins, items of beauty        family to live a self-sustainable
                                                                                                                                                           that last a lifetime. The Welsh       life. How, she wondered, could it      all over England and Scotland.
                                                                                                                                                           Organic Tannery’s online store        ever be right to simply dispose of     It also tans for other small
                                                                                                                                                           sells limited quantities of rugs,     her prized stock’s skins in landfill   holders who want to sell finished
                                                                                                                                                           cushion covers, seat pads and         or to incinerate them?                 sheepskin and goatskin products
                                                                                                                                                           footstools made from the various          Determined to find a solution,     from their own farm shops or

                                             W        hen Emma and Steve                                                                                   breeds of livestock the Allum’s       she finally found a tannery in         on sites such as Etsy or simply
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        to keep for themselves. Emma
                                                      Allum charged Relocation,                                                                            raise themselves or which they        Hereford, one of only a couple
                                                                                                                                                           secure from a local abattoir.         in England willing to take on the      and Steve Allum’s dedication to
                                             Relocation’s, Phil and Kirstie with                                                                                                                                                        preserving an ancient tanning
                                                                                                                                                              If you want a Jacob sheepskin,     job. Not only that, the owner
                                             finding them a property with a few                                                                            one of the world’s oldest breeds,     Nicki Port offered to teach Emma       process means that a precious
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        animal by-product is preserved
                                             acres of land, a two-hour drive in                                                                            prized for its light, soft, springy   and Steve the process of tanning.
                                                                                                                                                           fleece you’ll have to move fast       From that point on they decided        as an object of beauty rather than
                                             any direction from Bristol where                                                                                                                                                           ending up as waste.
                                                                                                                                                           as these coveted items fly off the    to make a go of it. The process
                                             Steve was working in government,                                                                              virtual shelf.                        isn’t for the faint-hearted; from
                                             little did they know that 17 years                                                                               Welsh Organic Tannery was          taking the initial plunge to a fully
                                                                                                                                                           born out of Emma Allum’s              operational tannery took around
                                             on they would have a smallholding
                                                                                                                                                           frustration at not finding            three years, time spent dealing
                                             with sheep and goats and be running
The Art of Leather issue 1

                                                                                                                                                                                                 with red tape and the actual
                                             Wales’s only organic tannery!                                                                                                                       building and sourcing of the
                                                                                                                                                                                                 constituent parts of a tannery,
                                                                                                                                                                                                 most of which are no longer made
                                                                                                                                                      ‘WELSH ORGANIC                             in the UK!
                                             welshorganictannery.co.uk                                                                                TANNERY’S DEDICATION                           Having spent several weeks
                                             Instagram: @welshorganictannery                                                                                                                     practising on skins donated by
                                                                                                                                                      TO PRESERVING AN                           neighbours, Emma and Steve
                                                                                                                                                      ANCIENT TANNING                            were confident they could tan
                                                                                                                                                                                                 skins to a high level. They were
                                                                                                                                                      PROCESS MEANS                              determined that no chemical
                                                                                   Photo by Heather Birnie Photography

                                                                                                                                                      THAT THE ANIMAL BY-                        products should be used in
                                                                                                                                                                                                 the tanning process or result in
                                                                                                                                                      PRODUCT IS PRESERVED                       harmful waste, in keeping with               Next

                                                                                                                                                      AS AN OBJECT OF                            their self-sufficient, sustainable           Karl Donoghue
                                                                                                                                                                                                 lifestyle. They use vegetable
                                                                                                                                                      BEAUTY’                                    tanning (sustainably sourced tree
INSIDE celebrating the UK's most exciting makers and creators
14

                             KARL
                                                                                                                                                                                                     His collections are based on a deep                   showing at London Fashion Week
                                                                                                                                                                                                     understanding of what women want to wear now.         in 1998 that launched his ascent.

                                                                                                                                                                Photo by Jeremy Baile @RGB Digital
                                                                                                                                                                                                     Unpredictable weather patterns and fluctuating        It was where he caught the eye of
                                                                                                                                                                                                     temperatures have led to a demand for pieces          iconic designer/retailer Joseph,

                                DONOGHUE
                                                                                                                                                                                                     that can be layered or deconstructed to be worn       initiating a collaboration that
                                                                                                                                                                                                     separately. It’s an issue that resonates globally     lasted several years, and leading
                                                                                                                                                                                                     and as well as its popularity in the UK, the label    Donoghue to create a ready-
                                                                                                                                                                                                     has big export markets in China, Japan, Korea         to-wear collection of brightly
                                                                                                                                                                                                     and the USA.                                          coloured shearling coats and
                                                                                                                                                                                                        His innovative KD2 Concept range is built          jackets for the label.
                                                                                                                                                                                                     around this idea, bringing together multi-seasonal        Donoghue has always insisted
                                                                                                                                                                                                     layers of showerproof fabric, shearling and           on manufacturing in the UK where
                                                                                                                                                                                                     leather so that the wearer can create a garment       possible, putting sustainable
                                                                                                                                                                                                     that fits her lifestyle. The lightweight base layer   practices at the heart of his
                                                                                                                                                                                                     comes in a variety of jacket and coat styles in       brand. His dedication to the
                                                                                                                                                                                                     different cuts and colours. When combined             animal hide is the starting point
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      with an equally wide selection       for his designs and a cornerstone
                             ‘KARL DONOGHUE IS                                                                                                                                                                        of shearling coats, jackets and      of his approach. He works closely
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      gilets, worn under or over the       with technicians at the European
                             SYNONYMOUS WITH                                                                                                                                                                          nylon base, the possibilities are    tannery that produces for him,
                             MODERN, RELAXED                                                                                                                                                                          endless. The genius of the KD2       developing deep partnerships
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Concept range is that it can         that result in new colours and
                             SHEARLING AND LEATHER.                                                                                                                                                                   be worn as something that is         finishes as well as shearling and
                             HE IS A TECHNICAL                                                                                                                                                                        completely unique to the wearer.     leather products that are bespoke
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           to the Karl Donoghue brand.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                         He also favours lightweight
                             INNOVATOR PUSHING                                                                                                                                                                        entrafino lamb leather of            His signature ‘cashmere touch’
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           and ‘velvet touch’ shearlings
                             THE BOUNDARIES’                                                                                                                                                                          the highest quality to create
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      wonderfully soft outerwear           were developed in this
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      with incredible movement. This       collaborative way.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      premium leather is left unlined to       He insists that pushing the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           technical boundaries of the

                              F
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      allow its natural beauty and the
                                  ashion designer Karl Donoghue is                                                                                                                                                                                         material is a fundamental part of
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      perfection of the construction to
                                  synonymous with modern, relaxed                                                                                                                                                     shine through. Ideal for summer,     the design journey and possible
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           only through the time he invests

                                                                          Photo by Jeremy Baile @RGB Digital
                              shearling and leather. His designs are                                                                                                                                                  it moves seamlessly into winter
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      when combined with a shearling       personally in understanding
                              elegant and fluid with a contemporary                                                                                                                                                                                        the tanning and manufacturing
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      layer for warmth.
                              edge. He is a technical innovator,                                                                                                                                                         Karl Donoghue started his         processes. What results from
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           such dedication to his craft is
                              pushing the boundaries of the finest                                                                                                                                                    love affair with shearling in
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           luxury at its most sustainable, a
The Art of Leather issue 1

                                                                                                                                                                                                                      the mid-90s when studying at
                              raw material he can source to its limits,                                                                                                                                                                                    practical wearable garment that
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Ravensbourne College. His quest
                              so that it becomes incredibly soft and                                                                                                                                                  to design beautiful, desirable       will last a lifetime and more.
                              lightweight, resulting in a luxurious                                                                                                                                                   collections from sustainably
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      sourced shearling and leather has
                              garment that is wearable and versatile.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      burned bright ever since.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                         He found success early in his
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      career when his accessories range
                              karldonoghue.com                                                                                                                                                                        was snapped up by a number
                                                                                                                                                    ‘HIS INNOVATIVE KD2                                               of iconic London boutiques.
                              Instagram: @karldonoghue
                                                                                                                                                    CONCEPT RANGE BRINGS                                              He quickly went on to build a
                                                                                                               Photo by Jeremy Baile @RGB Digital

                                                                                                                                                                                                                      celebrity clientele including Kate
                                                                                                                                                    TOGETHER MULTI-                                                   Moss, Julianne Moore, David
                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Furnish, Victoria Beckham,                Next
                                                                                                                                                    SEASONAL LAYERS OF                                                Kylie Jenner, Gillian Anderson            Mark Evans
                                                                                                                                                    SHOWERPROOF FABRIC,                                               and Olivia Palermo. But it was a

                                                                                                                                                    SHEARLING AND LEATHER’
INSIDE celebrating the UK's most exciting makers and creators
16

                                                                      And it is that technique and the          on when he risks becoming overly           also the knowledge and respect for
                                                                      medium he applies it to in service        known for any one genre, going off         the creature who lives on in the art,
                                                                      of his creative vision, which render      grid, moving into the shadows where        transported from the prosaic – a by-
                                                                      classification redundant. Because,        the world isn’t watching, to consider,     product of the meat industry – to the
                                                                      you see, he works entirely with           where next.                                sublime. Yet the medium of leather
                                                                      strong, beautiful, expressive leather,       A restless nature also compels          also exposes a fragility, when cut
                                                                      working the surface of the material       him to explore new techniques and          and transformed.
                                                                      with an array of scalpels, knives and     he has set himself the challenge of           The contemplation of these
                                                                      other tools to create his pieces. He is   interpreting Picasso’s Musketeers,         two forces, the fleeting and the
                                                                      also extraordinarily successful with      attempting, with the use of blade          permanent are driving Mark Evans
                                                                      a body of shows, a global collector       on leather, to create the look and         to explore the use of vellum in future
                                                                      base and media interest built up          feel of rich impasto found in the          works. We live in a world where
                                                                      over his 20-year career.                  original series. He also talks of          digital formats increasingly preserve
                                                                         When you stand before a Mark           his work becoming more perfect,            the moments that make up our
                                                                      Evans piece there is a tension at         more beautiful, more

                             MARK
                                                                      play – the viewer is compelled            deft. His big cats and his
                                                                      both to move back to take in the          tiger with golden eyes,
                                                                      full spectacle and to get up close        created during lockdown
                                                                                                                                                 ‘HE WORKS
                                                                                                                                                 ENTIRELY WITH

                              EVANS
                                                                      to explore the miniature world of         are attracting a growing
                                                                      carving, chiseling and shaving,           female collector base.
                                                                      mesmerised by the incredible                 Mark Evans thinks
                                                                                                                                                 STRONG, BEAUTIFUL,
                                                                      lightness of touch that creates           deeply about the world           EXPRESSIVE LEATHER,
                                                                      such impact.                              and his awe-inspiring
                                                                                                                                                 WORKING THE SURFACE
                             M      ark Evans is an artist who
                                    defies classification. He works
                                                                         Creatively, he finds himself
                                                                      drawn to the muscular, the heroic
                                                                                                                technique frequently
                                                                                                                serves as a vehicle for          OF THE MATERIAL WITH
                             to a monumental, epic scale, creating    and the fierce. His polo players, his
                                                                      boxers and his wildlife are visceral,
                                                                                                                social commentary. His
                                                                                                                banknote series, started
                                                                                                                                                 AN ARRAY OF SCALPELS’
                             works that enthrall audiences with
                                                                      magnetic pieces that leave an             in 2005, several years
                             their power, their drama and their       imprint long after the gaze moves         before the financial crisis reveals        collective memories. But we also
                             virtuoso technique.                      on. It is not surprising that he cites    him as an artist who is often several      risk losing those memories in a
                                                                      Delacroix as a non-conformist             steps ahead of the world. The              world where formats and hardware
                             markevans.studio                         worthy of our respect. But he also        series also saw him perfect a new          quickly become obsolete – named
                                                                      refuses to be pigeon-holed, moving        technique, almost three years in the       ‘bit-rot’ by internet pioneer Vint
                             Instagram: @markevans.studio
                                                                                                                making, penetration-dyeing and             Cerf. The concept of digital vellum,
The Art of Leather issue 1

                                                                                                                                 surface-tanning the       proposed by Cerf in his 2016 TED
                                                                                                                                 leather, creating full-   Talk is one that fascinates Evans and
                                                                                                                                 colour etched pieces      which he intends to explore.
                                                                                                                                 for the
                                                                                                                                 first time.
                                                                                                                                    There is a
                                                                                                                                 toughness, a
                                                                                                                                 durability to a
                                                                                                                                 Mark Evans work
                                                                                                                                 that comes from
                                                                                                                                 the leather hide
                                                                                                                                 that goes into its                   Next
                                                                                                                                 creation. There is
                                                                                                                                                                      J & F.J. Baker
                                                                                                                                                                      & Co Ltd
INSIDE celebrating the UK's most exciting makers and creators
18
                                                                                                                                                     Locally-sourced bovine hides are treated        Brands that buy from Andrew
                                                                                                                                                     on site over a fifteen-month period – the       know that they can rely on
                                                                                                                                                     longest of any tanning process - using          the tannery to advise and get
                                                                                                                                                     only natural and sustainable ingredients.       involved if required, at any point
                                                                                                                                                     Everything used is British and part of          in the subsequent making, such
                                                                                                                                                     a circular approach. The end result is          is their knowledge of how their
                                                                                                                                                     beautiful full grain aniline leather that       leather responds and performs.
                                                                                                                                                     is made into high-value items including             The Parr family takes pride in
                                                                                                                                                     shoes, bags, equestrian accessories and         their sustainable practices, using
                                                                                                                                                     other luxury goods.                             hides that are locally sourced,
                                                                                                                                                        Colours are subtle and discreet,             by-products of the Devon beef
                                                                                                                                                     never bright or vulgar; light, mid and          industry that is on their doorstep.
                                                                                                                                                     dark browns and tans that bring out the         The bark comes from coppiced
                                                                                                                                                     full, natural, tactile beauty of a material     British oak that is sustainably
                                                                                                                                                     that ages like a fine wine, developing a        harvested and left to grow back
                                                                                                                                                     character and patina, unique to each item.      from the same plant. Quarried
                                                                                                                                                                   Indeed, the painstaking           Derbyshire lime and water are
                                                                                                                                                               process of making leather in          used at the dehairing stage and
                                                                                                                                                               this way is not dissimilar to         once completed, the lime is
                                                                                                                                                               creating an outstanding vintage       spread on local fields where cattle
                                                                                                                                       Pictured:               wine or cold-pressed virgin olive     graze. The bark that is left from
                                                                                                                                       Andrew Parr
                                                                                                                                                               oil – there are no short cuts, no     the tanning process is dried and
                                                                                                                                                               compromises. This integrity and       allowed to decompose over

                             J & F.J. BAKER
                                                                                                                                                               respect for the method, honed         a three-year period until it
                                                                                                                                                               by generations of experts, means      becomes a peat-like material,
                                                                          ‘INTEGRITY AND                                                                       that J. & F.J. Baker oak bark         sold to local gardeners.
                                                                          RESPECT FOR                                                                                                                    As the world starts to

                                   & CO LTD
                                                                                                                                                               tanned leather will always be
                                                                                                                                                               better than anyone else’s.            rediscover and appreciate
                                                                          THE METHOD,                                                                              Andrew Parr belongs to that       traditional, sustainable ways of
                                                                                                                                                                                                     producing, businesses like J. &
                                                                          HONED BY                                                                             rarified breed of connoisseurs
                                                                                                                                                                                                     F.J. Baker that used to feel left

                              J
                                                                                                                                                               whose knowledge and instinct
                                 . & F.J. Baker is a place steeped
                                                                          GENERATIONS                                                                          for their craft is second to none.    behind are now at the vanguard.
                                 in history and tradition, the last                                                                                            He describes the best oak bark        A history lesson that is now
                              practitioner of a very British craft, and
                                                                          OF EXPERTS’                                                                          tanned leather as ‘smiling’ when      teaching and inspiring future

                                                                                           Photo by www.otzilondon.com
                                                                                                                                                               made into a case or bag. He can       generations.
                              pretty much unique worldwide. From its
                                                                                                                         ‘AS THE WORLD                         tell in an instant, simply by the
                              location in a small town in rural Devon                                                                                          fold, the grain, the glow and the
                              with a 20-person team it produces
                                                                                                                         STARTS TO                             weight of a leather item
                                                                                                                         REDISCOVER
The Art of Leather issue 1

                                                                                                                                                                if it is tanned by J. &
                              a material of the utmost luxury, in
                                                                                                                                                               F.J. Baker.
                              demand from the most exclusive brands                                                      AND APPRECIATE                            He talks with pride of
                              and makers globally. That material is                                                      TRADITIONAL,                          how the family business
                                                                                                                                                               continues to make the
                              the highest quality, oak bark tanned                                                       SUSTAINABLE WAYS OF                   leather that goes into
                              leather made lovingly using age-old                                                                                              the boots worn by the
                                                                                                                         MAKING J. & F.J. BAKER
                              techniques in a tannery run by sixth and                                                                                         Horse Guards outside

                              seventh generation tanners.                                                                ARE NOW AT THE                        Buckingham Palace
                                                                                                                                                               to specifications that
                                                                                                                         VANGUARD’                             pre-date the battle of
                                                                                                                                                               Waterloo. A material
                              jfjbaker.co.uk                                                                                                                   that is sword-proof, with the grain
                                                                                                                                                               side worn inside, so that any hack          Next
                              Instagram: @bakerstannerycolyton
                                                                                                                                                               mark can be boned and removed               Warriner
                                                                                                                                                               from the outer.
                                                                                                                                                                                                           Leather Works
20

                             WARRINER
                                                                                     Pictured:       Katy Warriner is fastidious about understanding         has changed the way people
                                                                                     Katy Warriner
                                                                                                     where every item she uses in the making process         feel about consumption and
                                                                                                     comes from. Be that the leather itself - which          she sees a movement building
                                                                                                     comes from local grass-fed cattle - the flax used       that recognises the importance

                               LEATHER WORKS
                                                                                                     in her waxed linen thread, or the brass or sterling     of growing and making locally.
                                                                                                     silver buckles in her belts and dog collars. She is     With this comes a resurgence
                                                                                                     hugely respectful of the materials that she uses        in traditional crafts and slow
                                                                                                     in the making of her items; transparency and            making, a rediscovery of our
                                                                                                     responsibility are bywords to her approach.             collective heritage, looking
                                                                                                         Katy founded Warriner Leather Works in              backwards so that we can create
                                                                                                     2016 after a twelve-year career directing creative      a better, more responsible
                                                                                                     teams behind some of the UK’s best-known                future. She is playing her part by
                                                                                                     festivals and a stint set-dressing film sets. That      educating, sharing her research
                                                                                                     was preceded by studies in marine science and           into leather traceability, working
                                                                                                     environmental law and several years spent living        with farmers to correct the
                                                                                                     in Mexico and Central America.                          disconnect between fashion
                                                                                                                        But the haunting vision of Liv       and farming.
                                                                                                                        Tyler on a white horse in Lord of        Buying from Warriner Leather
                                                                                                                        the Rings and her own passion        Works is a wonderful, personal
                                                                                                                        for riding and its beautiful         experience. Whether buying ‘off
                                                                                                                        accompanying leather saddlery        the shelf’ or discussing a bespoke
                                                                                                                        was a constant in her life. So       item, you’ll have an inspiring
                                                                                                                        much so that she decided leather     encounter with one the UK’s most
                                                                                                                        was to be her destiny and took       passionate leather makers.
                                                                                                                        herself off to train in leather-
                                                                                                                        making. Katy describes it as
                                                                                                                        an awakening, an immediate
                                                                                                                        realisation that she’d found what
                                                                                                                        she wanted to spend the rest of

                             K                                                                                                                               ‘WHEN YOU BUY
                                  aty Warriner’s covetable bags and other                                               her life doing.
                                                                                                                            Her style combines classic
                                  leather items are lovingly handmade in                                                                                     FROM WARRINER
                                                                                                                        saddlery techniques with a
                             her Devon workshop. She uses only vegetable-                                               modern twist – hints of her years
                                                                                                                        organising festivals can be seen
                                                                                                                                                             LEATHER
                             tanned, British bovine leather, supplied by
                             the UK’s last surviving traditional oak-bark
                                                                                                                        in some of her more informal         WORKS YOU’RE
                                                                                                                        designs including the Fernworthy
                             tannery, J.&F.J. Baker, just 25 miles away in                                              Tote, the Vixen Tor Handbag          INVESTING IN A
                             Colyton. Leather that is slowly tanned in this                                             and the Buckland Belt. Her bags      HIGH-QUALITY
                                                                                                                        blend categories - a satchel
The Art of Leather issue 1

                             way using responsibly-sourced British oak                                                                                       PRODUCT THAT
                                                                                                                        borrows design cues from the
                             bark, produces gorgeous earthy tones that                                                  messenger bag and vice versa.
                                                                                                                        The practical Foragers Gardening
                                                                                                                                                             LASTS A LIFETIME
                             allow the natural features of the leather to
                             shine through. When you buy from Warriner
                                                                                                                        Trug happily doubles up to carry     BUT BECOMES
                                                                                                                        everything needed for a picnic.
                             Leather Works you’re investing in a high-                                                  Her meticulous hand-stitching is
                                                                                                                                                             MORE BEAUTIFUL
                             quality product that not only lasts a lifetime but                                         strong and practical as well as      WITH AGE’
                                                                                                                        beautifully decorative; echoes of
                             becomes more beautiful with age; it’s the very
                                                                                                                        her love of saddlery born as
                             epitome of slow fashion.                             ‘HER STYLE COMBINES                   a child learning to ride are never
                                                                                                                        far away.
                                                                                  CLASSIC SADDLERY                          Katy Warriner believes in
                             warrinerleatherworks.co.uk                                                                                                            Next
                                                                                  TECHNIQUES WITH A                     living gently, making as small
                             Instagram: @warrinerleatherworks
                                                                                  MODERN TWIST’
                                                                                                                        an impact on the world as she
                                                                                                                        can. She believes the pandemic
                                                                                                                                                                   Georgina
                                                                                                                                                                   Brett Chinnery
22

                                                                                                                                                                                 ‘LEATHER IS THE
                                                                                                                                                                                 MEDIUM OF CHOICE
                                                                                                                                                                                 FOR GEORGINA’S
                                                                                                                                                                                 SCULPTURAL NATURE
                                                                                                                                                                                 WHICH SHUNNED
                                                                                                                                                                                 ANYTHING FLAT,
                                                                                                                                                                                 PREFERRING PATTERNS,
                                                                                                                                                                                 TEXTURES AND RELIEFS’

                                                                                                                                                  onto the birds themselves. The         Victorian homes. In her practice
                                                                                                                                                  technical challenge of creating        she makes the occasional foray
                                                                                                                                                  something so light, so airy, out       into producing highly decorative
                                                                                                                                                  of something so durable and            leather coverings for one off items

                             GEORGINA
                                                                                                             Her love of taxidermy and
                                                                                                                                                  resistant as the vegetable tanned      of furniture.
                                                                                                             Victoriana can be seen in much
                                                                                                                                                  bridle leather that she favours           She is now on a journey to
                                                                                                             of her work, not just in the birds
                                                                                                                                                  drives the artist in her work. The     learn, practise and preserve

                              BRETT CHINNERY
                                                                                                             she creates – often crows and
                                                                                                                                                  dark, brooding corvids that have       traditional leather-making
                                                                                                             magpies - but also in her hugely
                                                                                                                                                  become her calling card have an        techniques. Whip-making is a
                                                                                                             popular dressmaking dummies
                                                                                                                                                  incredible iridescent patina, and a    dying craft in the UK, and one
                                                                                                             covered in gorgeously lavish
                                                                                                                                                  similar virtuoso sense of colour is    that Georgina is studying so that
                                                                                                             hand-tooled leather. Her mirrors
                                                                                                                                                  also seen in her playful, colourful    she can incorporate the principles
                                                                                                             in a studded black leather frame

                                                       A
                                                                                                                                                  kingfishers and macaws.                into the organic snake-like,
                                                            rtist Georgina Brett Chinnery                    or an intricate laser-cut form
                                                                                                                                                      Self Reliance 2, part of her       braided forms that she has been
                                                            creates sculptural, poetic pieces                in intense vermillion leather,
                                                                                                                                                  Bird Brain series, is a life-size      experimenting with. She is also
                                                                                                             resembling a fiery autumnal
                                                       that transfix with their uncanny likeness                                                  heron, gilded with white gold          dedicated to teaching others,
                                                                                                             leaf, bring high art to this
                                                                                                                                                  leaf, that was shown at the Royal      passing on her own skills to future
                                                       to the birds and other creatures that                 everyday object.
                                                                                                                                                  Academy’s Summer Exhibition in         generations of artists.
                                                       she is clearly fascinated by. She                         Georgina’s work possesses
                                                                                                                                                  2019. It was a year-long creative         Georgina will continue to
                                                                                                             incredible delicacy and precision.
                                                       uses beautiful leather hides that she                                                      process that saw the artist battle     exhibit at home and overseas.
                                                                                                             She talks of spending months
                                                                                                                                                  the natural resilience of leather,     She can be contacted directly
                                                       transforms by a skillful metamorphosis                practising making bird feathers
                                                                                                                                                  racking up countless sleepless         for commissions.
                                                       of moulding, embossing, tooling, gilding              out of leather well before moving
                                                                                                                                                  nights, in an effort to re-create
                                                       and painting. The result is an artform                                                     the graceful yet distorted curve
                                                                                                                                                  of the bird’s neck. She works by
                                                       that has incredible energy and realism;
The Art of Leather issue 1

                                                                                                                                                  creating a metal armature that
                                                       her vision is beautiful, sometimes                                                         she builds her structure around,       ‘HER LOVE OF
                                                       unsettling, occasionally whimsical.                                                        dampening and bending the
                                                                                                                                                                                         TAXIDERMY AND
                                                                                                                                                  leather in a painstaking process
                                                                                                                                                  before she starts the process of       VICTORIANA CAN
                                                                                                                                                  decoration and embellishment.
                                                       georginabrettchinnery.com                                                                      Working with leather was
                                                                                                                                                                                         BE SEEN IN MUCH
                                                       Instagram: @leather_artist                                                                 something that came to pass            OF HER WORK’
                                                                                                                                                  naturally; it was the medium of
                                                                                                                                                  choice for Georgina’s sculptural
                                                                                            Pictured:
                                                                                            Georgina Brett
                                                                                                                                                  nature which shunned anything
                                                                                            Chinnery                                              flat, preferring patterns, textures,
                                                                                                                                                  reliefs and the opportunity to               Next
                             Photo by Alun Callender

                                                                                                                                                  emboss, mould and carve.
                                                                                                                                                  She also takes her inspiration               Grady +
                                                                                                                                                  from leather wallcoverings and               Robinson
                                                                                                                                                  screens once found in wealthy
24                                                                                                                                                                                                  witness the highest standards of
                                                                                                                                                                                                     animal welfare and responsible

                             Photo by Jason Lowe
                                                                                                                                                                                                     ecological practices. With that
                                                                                                                                                                                                     came a commitment to utilising
                                                                                                                                                                                                     all parts of the animal, yet the
                                                                                                                                                                                                     hides disappeared within a
                                                                                                                                                                                                     commoditised supply chain that
                                                                                                                                                                                                     is disconnected from farms. This
                                                                                                                                                                                                     gave birth to the idea of creating
                                                                                                                                                                                                     a source of leather that is truly
                                                                                                                                                                                                     connected to place.
                                                                                                                                                                                                         Grady + Robinson secure their
                                                                                                                                                                                                     hides from farms that are certified
                                                                                                                                                                                                     by the Pasture-fed Livestock
                                                                                                                                                                                                     Association or the Savory Institute
                                                                                                                                                                                                     – two bodies that are dedicated to
                                                                                                                                                                                                     raising animals on pasture in high
                                                                                                                                                               happening with leather as people      welfare conditions with ecological
                                                                                                                                                               want to know how the animal has       management practices. Working
                                                                                                                                                               been raised and what its impact       with some of the UK’s craft
                                                                                                                                                               is on the environment: the story      tanneries that use traditional,
                                                                                                                                                               behind the bag, the purse, the        vegetable tanning techniques,
                                                                                                                                                               shoes or leather jacket.              Grady + Robinson supply finished
                                                                                                                         The partnership between the
                                                                                                                                                                  Their idea to provide designers    bovine and sheep leather that
                                                                                                                         two women was solidified in
                                                                                                                                                               with leather that aligns with         can be traced to its farm origins
                                                                                                                         2020 and unites Sara’s previous
                                                                                                                                                                                                     agricultural practices.

                                                   GRADY +
                                                                                                                         work in ethical, sustainable          their values grew out of Alice’s
                                                                                                                                                               experience while studying fashion         The two women are already
                                                                                                                         farming practices in the US and
                                                                                                                                                               design, searching for a source of     making ripples in an industry
                                                                                                  Pictured:              the UK, with Alice’s background
                                                                                                  Alice Robinson                                               leather she could be confident        that is ripe for change. Alice
                                                                                                  and Sara Grady         in fashion design that explores
                                                                                                                                                               came from farms with ethical and      Robinson is returning to her

                                                       ROBINSON
                                                                                                                         the connection between leather
                                                                                                                                                               ecological practices. Her resulting   design practice; she is part of a
                                                                                                                         goods and livestock farming.
                             Photo by Jason Lowe

                                                                                                                                                               work garnered a reputation            wider disruption sweeping the
                                                                                                                            The result is a formidable
                                                                                                                                                               as a pioneer demonstrating            industry. She talks of rejecting
                                                                                                                         knowledge base and a vision to
                                                                                                                                                               sustainable, responsible farm-to-     the cycle of regular collections
                                                                                                                         connect leather to regenerative
                                                                                                                                                               fashion design practice.              and making only when she

                                                        A
                                                                                                                         agriculture; they are bringing a
                                                             lice Robinson and Sara Grady                                traceability approach with deep          Her MA at the Royal College of     knows there is a demand for her
                                                             are pioneers. They have created                                                                   Art saw her continue this journey.    creations. Together Sara and
                                                                                                                         integrity to leather supply in the
                                                                                                                                                               Her collection 11458 was made         Alice are creating a new business
                                                        a traceable supply chain to produce                              UK. There is already real appetite
                                                                                                                                                               with the materials and fibres         to offer traceable leather to other
                                                                                                                         for their product from makers
                                                        leather entirely from British livestock                          and craftspeople as well as major     of one sheep (sheep number            designers, including custom
The Art of Leather issue 1

                                                        that is reared according to the                                                                        11458) from a farm close to her       finishing for brands that require a
                                                                                                                         brands and designers.
                                                                                                                                                               childhood home in Shropshire.         particular style. Their enterprise
                                                        principles of regenerative farming.                                 We live in a time of questioning
                                                                                                                                                               She inverted the conventional         will meet the demand for leather
                                                                                                                         how the food we eat is farmed
                                                                                                                                                               approach to design, allowing          that is traceable to exemplary
                                                                                                                         and produced. The same is now
                                                        Instagram: @alice.v.robinson                                                                           the animal and the materials it       agriculture and expresses the
                                                                   @saragrady                                                                                  provides to dictate her output,       guiding principles and passion
                                                                                                                                                               rather than the other way             that both women bring to
                                                                                                                                                               round. The result is a collection,    this initiative.
                                                                                                                        ‘OUR VISION IS TO                      acquired by the Victoria &
                                                                                                                                                               Albert Museum in 2020, that
                                                                                                                        CREATE LEATHER                         includes woollen clothing and an
                                                                                                                   FROM ANIMALS RAISED                         incredibly stylish handbag, wallet
                                                                                                                                                               and shoes in a buttery pale tan
                                                                                                                     ON FARMS THAT ARE                         sheep leather.                              Next
                                                                                                                    REGENERATING LAND                             Sara’s experience in                     Owen Barry
                                                                                                                                                               regenerative farming and
                                                                                                                       AND ECOSYSTEMS’                         agriculture in the US saw her
26                                                                                                                                      design aesthetic that’s been right
                                                                                                                                         under our noses all these years.
                                                                                                                                             Owen Barry’s extensive            ‘NOTHING SAYS
                                                                                                                                         sheepskin interiors range includes
                                                                                                                                         some of the company’s most
                                                                                                                                                                               COSY WEEKEND
                                                                                                                                         in-demand items. Gorgeous             MORNINGS IN

                                               OWEN
                                                                                                                                         cocooning Sheepskin Beanbags
                                                                                                                                         in a range of natural tones are
                                                                                                                                                                               BED LIKE THE
                                                                                                                                         showstoppers, especially when         COMPANY’S GIANT,

                                                  BARRY
                                                                                                                                         executed to the size of a four-
                                                                                                                                         poster bed as requested for a
                                                                                                                                                                               REVERSIBLE QUAD
                                                                                                                                         bespoke order! And nothing            SHEEPSKIN BED
                                                                                                                                         says cosy weekend mornings in
                                                                                                                                         bed like the company’s giant,
                                                                                                                                                                               THROW’
                                                                                                                                         reversible Quad Sheepskin Bed

                                                    T   here’s a new found pride
                                                        and renaissance in British
                                                    manufacturing, but some businesses
                                                                                                                                         Throw made in sueded British
                                                                                                                                         shearling in a rich blue or
                                                                                                                                         natural cream.
                                                                                                                                             Owen Barry’s in-house
                                                    have been tirelessly flying the flag for        The tannery has long since           design team also makes it a
                                                    generations. One such example is Owen           disappeared, but a deep              strong player in sheepskin and
                                                                                                    understanding of and obsession       leather fashion and accessories,
                                                    Barry, the Somerset-based family firm
                                                                                                    with using the very best quality     selling under its own brand as
                                                    that mother and daughter duo, Cindi             sheepskin and leather for Owen       well as creating for some of
                                                    and Chas Barnstable were born into,             Barry’s extensive interiors,         the UK best-known designers.
                                                                                                    fashion and accessories ranges       Its reversible sheepskin gilets
                                                    and which boasts a “made in Britain”
                                                                                                    lives on. The company designs        and jackets matched with cosy
                                                    heritage dating back to 1948. And its           and makes every single item from     gloves and scarves are perennial
                                                    roots in the leather industry go back           its workshop in Street, Somerset,    favourites. Its brilliant range of
                                                                                                    exporting a significant share of     sheepskin hats, from beanies to
                                                    further, to the late 1800s when great,          production to customers in the       trappers to buckets in fun colour
                                                    great, great grandparents Walter and            US, Japan and Korea who value        combinations means you’ll never
                                                    Amy Barry ran the first tiny Barry              its ‘made in British’ provenance     be stuck for a fabulous gift idea.
                                                                                                    and the timeless luxury of           And its huge variety of leather
                                                    family tannery in Wiltshire.                    its ranges.                          and sheepskin bags, nigh on 100
                                                                                                        In recent years Cindi and Chas   styles, without factoring in the
                                                                                                    have steered the businesses          range of colourways available,
                                                                                                    in building its ‘made in Britain’    can feed even the largest
                                                 owenbarry.com
                                                                                                    brand, not just overseas but         handbag obsession. Check
                                                 Instagram: @owenbarryltd                           increasingly at home, tapping into   out the teddy bear-like Yate
The Art of Leather issue 1

                                                                                                    the growing appreciation of the      Sheepskin Tote, you’ll thank us!
                                                                                                    outstanding craftsmanship and            Quite simply when you
                                                                                                                                         purchase an Owen Barry product
                                                                                                                                         you’re buying into generations
                                                                                                                                         of expert British craftsmanship
                                                                                               ‘WHEN YOU PURCHASE                        and know-how, delivering a
                                                                                               AN OWEN BARRY                             quality and longevity that are
                                                                                                                                         second to none. This is why the
                                                                                               PRODUCT YOU’RE                            company has a growing interior
                                                                                               BUYING INTO                               designer clientele, working on
                                                                                                                                         luxury interiors briefs, as well as
                                                                                               GENERATIONS OF                            shoppers buying direct or from
                                   Pictured:
                             Cindi and Chas                                                    EXPERT BRITISH                            the number of premium retailers
                                                                                                                                         and designers that Owen Barry           Next
                                 Barnstable
                                                                                               CRAFTSMANSHIP’                            manufactures for.                       Spire Leather
28                            Pictured:
                              Peter Bird
                                                                                                                                                                  A growing number of local organic
                                                                                                                                                                  farmers are coming to Spire, keen
                                                                                                                                                                  to see the hides left as a by-
                                                                                                                                                                  product of their operations, often
                                                                                                                                                                  specialist breeds, made into an
                                                                                                                                                                  item of their choosing – a leather
                                                                                                                                                                  covered chair, for example. This
                                                                                                                                                                  is something that Peter Bird and
                                                                                                                                                                  his team are keen to support.
                                                                                                                                                                  In the near future the tannery is
                                                                                                                                                                  looking to introduce a range of
                                                                                                                                                                  responsibly produced ‘hair-on’
                                                                                                                                                                  hides, a practice that has more
                                                                                                                                                                  or less disappeared from the UK,
                                                                                                                                                                  but for which there is growing
                                                                                                                                                                  demand as producers want to
                                                                                                                                                                  ensure that every part of their
                                                                                                                                                                  animal has a use and provides

                             SPIRE
                                                                                       Fashion designers and other          Spire’s ‘craft’ tannery ethos,        an additional product line to
                                                                                       makers head to Spire, inspired       means that it provides the same       their sales.
                                                                                       by the huge variety of leathers on   service and technical know-how            On Peter Bird’s busy agenda
                                                                                                                                                                  is the idea for a small range of

                              LEATHER
                                                                                       display, everything from bovine,     to every customer, regardless of
                                                                                       to deer (sourced from a local        whether they are buying a small       finished leather items that the
                                                                                       game butcher), to horse and          piece of leather for a one-off        tannery will sell directly to the
                                                                                       water buffalo, wherever possible     fashion assignment or placing a       consumer or through bespoke
                                                                                       from sustainable, traceable          much larger, commercial order.        retailers. But one of the projects
                                                                                       sources in the UK. Whether they          Peter Bird is seeing a younger,   closest to his heart has been

                                           P    eter Bird, Spire’s managing director
                                                is well placed to sense a change
                                           in attitudes towards leather. He runs
                                                                                       are looking for a specific leather
                                                                                       to be made into floor tiles or
                                                                                       other interiors project, a soft
                                                                                                                            increasingly well-informed
                                                                                                                            consumer who is driven by a
                                                                                                                            desire to buy responsibly, drawn
                                                                                                                                                                  a commitment to reducing the
                                                                                                                                                                  environmental impact of Spire’s
                                                                                                                                                                  operation in recent years. His
                                                                                       horse leather to be made into        to Spire because their leather is     ambition is to see this culminate
                                           one of the UK’s smaller tanneries, set      a skirt or a quirky leather for a    clearly traceable, a by-product of    in the tannery recycling all of the
                                           up in the mid-1800s in Chesterfield,        pair of bespoke shoes, they all      farming or related industry. It is    water it uses.
                                                                                       know that Spire leather is made      a generation that wants to create
                                           producing high-quality leathers
                                                                                       with genuine care, born of a         something beautiful, long-lasting
                                           for many different industries. He’s         craftmanship built over more         and sustainable rather than
                                           expecting the post pandemic years to        than a century.                      seeing an animal hide disposed

                                           be some of the best the company has
                                                                                                                            of in landfill or burnt. They know    ‘SPIRE LEATHER
                                                                                                                            that as long as meat is consumed,
                                           had since he became MD in 2018.                                                                                        IS MADE WITH
The Art of Leather issue 1

                                                                                                                            hides will exist.
                                                                                                                                The incredible diversity
                                                                                                                            of leather produced in this
                                                                                                                                                                  GENUINE CARE,
                                                                                                                            traditional British tannery sees      BORN OF A
                                           spireleather.co.uk                                                               it supplying for the production
                                                                                                                            of top-quality cricket balls,
                                                                                                                                                                  CRAFTMANSHIP
                                           Instagram: @spireleathercompany
                                                                                                                            equestrian straps and gym             BUILT OVER MORE
                                                                                                                            hand straps. The historical re-
                                                                                                                            enactment community would also        THAN A CENTURY’
                                                                                                                            be lost without the very specialist
                                                                                                                            leather made by Spire. Motorbike
                                                                                                                            jackets and other British leather
                                                                                                                            goods are also made using the
                                                                                                                            company’s products.                         Next
                                                                                                                                                                        Charles Laurie
                                                                                                                                                                        London
30

                                              ‘AN APPROACH                                                          Pictured:
                                                                                                                    Charles Laurie
                                                                                                                                     Today, Charles Laurie’s discerning       accessible collection is made from a
                                                                                                                                     clients appreciate his outstanding       combination of nubuck and a cotton
                                              THAT COMBINES                                                                          craftsmanship and his modern take        canvas lining with durable Tuscan
                                              BEAUTY, QUALITY,                                                                       on timeless classics: rounded edges;     vegetable tanned straps.
                                                                                                                                     a subtle twist on the classic handle         As well as his bi-annual
                                              PRACTICALITY AND                                                                       or strap; a pocket or compartment        collections, Laurie undertakes
                                              THE OCCASIONAL                                                                         in an unexpected position; stunning      bespoke projects, relishing the

                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Photo by Emma Lee
                                                                                                                                     combinations of colours such as          challenge that clients bring his way.
                                              WHIMSICAL DETAIL’                                                                      the black leather matched with           Rather than drawing out his designs,
                                                                                                                                     burgundy suede pigskin lining in his     he creates prototypes in a sturdy
                                                                                                                                     beautiful, slim Handle Folio coveted     felt which he ruthlessly cuts away
                                                                                                                                     by men and women alike.                  at or adds to as part of the making
                                                                                                                                        These are the hallmarks of a          process until both he and the client
                                                                                                                                     Charles Laurie creation, an approach     are satisfied. And it is the
                                                                                                                                     that combines beauty, quality,           fiercely practical demands
                                                                                                                                     practicality and the occasional          that Laurie thrives on:                   ‘SADDLERY RUNS DEEP IN
                                                                                                                                     whimsical detail. Laurie’s creations     a business leader who
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        HIS VEINS, TRACEABLE

                             CHARLES
                                                                                                                                     are always discreet, whispering          hot-desks globally and
                                                                                                                                     rather than shouting their pedigree.     who needs a bag that                      TO A FAMILY-OWNED
                                                                                                                                        Laurie’s first collection, launched   both holds an array of
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        WORKSHOP IN OXFORD

                              LAURIE
                                                                                                                                     in 2018 was two painstaking years        electronic items and
                                                                                                                                     in the making. It saw him seek to        allows everything to be                   STREET IN THE 1800s’
                                                                                                                                     reinterpret classic case and luggage     seen and retrieved in an
                                                                                                                                     items, using only the finest British     instant; a chef who wants

                              LONDON
                                                                                                                                     saddlery leather for his handles and     a box built in an unusual leather type        He plans to focus on developing
                                                                                                                                     straps, complemented by Tuscan           to house a recipe collection built            future collections, to further
                                                                                                                                     leather for the body in a range of       over years.                                   build his bespoke practice and to
                                                                                                                                     gorgeous rich colours. In 2021 he            A move from London’s Cockpit              potentially dip his toe into creating

                              E
                                                                                                                                     launches his second collection,          Arts, a business incubator for                interiors items.
                                  choes of Charles Laurie’s forebears
                                                                                                                                     further building his signature classic   craftspeople, to his own studio in an            But Charles Laurie is serious
                                  can be seen in the strong, beautiful                                                               meets modern style, and aiming           old grain store just south of Rutland         about giving back and supporting
                              leather found in his bags, cases and                                                                   to appeal as much to a female            Water in early 2021, marks the next           the industry that allowed him to
                              luggage. Saddlery runs deep in his veins,                                                              as a male audience. This more            phase in the Charles Laurie story.            reignite the family tradition. He
                              traceable to a family-owned workshop                                                                                                                                                          plans to pass on his skills by training
The Art of Leather issue 1

                                                                                                                                                                                                                            the leather-makers of the future,
                              in Oxford Street making in the 1800s
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            building a small apprentice team,
                              harnesses for carriages drawn by six                                                                                                                                                          in recognition of his good fortune
                              horses, the Ferraris of their time.                                                                                                                                                           in having apprenticed for one of
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            London’s finest leather goods
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            manufacturers. The desire to keep
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            the craft of leather alive burns bright
                              charleslaurielondon.com                                                                                                                                                                       in Charles Laurie.
                              Instagram: @charleslaurielondon
                                                                          Photo by Patrick Williamson Photography

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Next
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Joshua Millard

                                                                                                                                                                                                    Photo by Emma Lee
32

                                                                          ‘BRINGING THE          Pictured:
                                                                                                 Joshua Millard
                                                                                                                  His reputation lies in his skill in       environment of the Dorset landscape
                                                                                                                  combining textures; shearling             that is his constant influence.
                                                                          ETHICS OF                               and leather with different fabrics           When you learn that Joshua
                                                                          CLOTHING TO                             within a single tailored garment.         Millard comes from a Dorset
                                                                                                                  His renowned tweed and shearling          sheep farming family, you begin
                                                                          THE FORE’                               biker jackets or tweed shepherd’s         to see those subtle influences
                                                                                                                  overcoat with leather detailing are       in his designs. He talks of cold,
                                                                                                                  brilliant examples – both available       rainy mornings on the farm where
                                                                                                                  as made-to-measure. His fluffy            practicalities of layering texture and
                                                                                                                  tigrado shearling shrug with suede        fibre constantly feed into his work to
                                                                                                                  detail back, worn casually over a         this day. And his love and knowledge
                                                                                                                  dress, shirt or jumper, is dreamy         of a wide variety of different sheep
                                                                                                                  yet practical. He also produces a         breeds drives his use of shearling
                                                                                                                  range of cushions that combine            and underpins his
                                                                                                                  houndstooth tweed with leather            responsible, respectful,
                                                                                                                  panels in a range of tans, Bordeaux       slow fashion philosophy.       ‘HIS REPUTATION
                                                                                                                  and greens.                                  Joshua Millard is on
                                                                                                                      But the brand is best known for       a mission to bring the         LIES IN HIS SKILL IN
                                                                                                                  its made-to-measure offering and          ethics of clothing to the      COMBINING TEXTURES;
                                                                                                                  Joshua Millard the designer clearly       fore, from fair pay to the
                                                                                                                                                                                           SHEARLING AND

                                                          JOSHUA
                                                                                                                  relishes the opportunity to engage        environment and animal
                                                                                                                  with clients who visit him at his store   welfare. His belief system     LEATHER WITH
                                                                                                                  and workshop. He dedicates time           guides him in creating
                                                                                                                  to understanding their lifestyles and     contemporary but
                                                                                                                                                                                           DIFFERENT FABRICS’

                                                           MILLARD
                                                                                                                  what makes them tick, so that the         enduring, high-quality
                                                                                                                  encounter and resulting creation          pieces that are not subject to the       drive transparency. Growing up
                                                                                                                  becomes a collaboration that not          vagaries of rapidly changing trends      with an understanding of a farm
                             joshua-millard.com                                                                                                                                                      animal’s life cycle and seeing the
                                                                                                                  only reflects and endorses a client’s     and avoid fanning the flames of
                             Instagram: @Joshua.millard                                                                                                                                              shocking waste of skins, a by-

                                                             J
                                                                                                                  personality, but also their lifestyle.    overconsumption. If that places him
                                                               oshua Millard’s store in
                                                                                                                  He celebrated his clients in a recent     outside the fashion industry, then       product of the meat industry, sent
                                                               Soho, London, complete                             ad campaign using them as models          that’s fine by him!                      to landfill after slaughter, means
                                                            with workshop, welcomes a                             in a series of honest, unfiltered            He is also serious about aiming       that he is keen to promote the
                                                            loyal clientele of women who                          images, nestled within the natural        to source his beloved sheepskin and      use of leather and shearling as a
                                                                                                                                                            leather as close to home as possible,    sustainable, responsible, enduring
The Art of Leather issue 1

                                                            adore his luxurious yet refined
                                                                                                                                                            even exploring the role the family       and biodegradable choice.
                                                            tailored style. And while                                                                       farm might play in supplying skins          Yet none of this should lead
                                                            Millard has extensive training in                                                               for the brand’s use, in an effort to     one to assume that the Joshua
                                                            classical tailoring, his aesthetic                                                                                                       Millard brand is a worthy one.
                                                                                                                                                                                                     While he professes to being tired of
                                                            is anything but traditional, with
                                                                                                                                                                                                     fashion, he grew up with an artistic,
                                                            designs that demonstrate a                                                                                                               bohemian mother who never shied
                                                            lightness of touch, clean lines                                                                                                          away from individuality through
                                                            and movement.                                                                                                                            her style and character. To this day
                                                                                                                                                                                                     she serves both as informal style
                                                                                                                                                                                                     consultant and muse, providing the
                                                                                                                                                                                                     kind of no-nonsense feedback that
                                                                                                                                                                                                     ensures Joshua Millard is a designer
                                                                                                                                                                                                     who understands how to dress
                                                                                                                                                                                                     real women.
Baa Stool Ltd (page 6)                       Mark Evans Studio (page 16)

                                                                             INDEX
                                                                                 Colomendy industrial estate, 13 Vale Park,   Email: studio@markevans.studio
                                                                                 Rhyl Road, Denbigh LL16 5TA                  Web: markevans.studio
                                                                                 Tel: 01824 790882                            Instagram.com/markevans.studio
                                                                                 Email: info@baastool.co.uk
                                                                                 Web: baastool.co.uk                          Martina Spetlova (page 4)
                                                                                 Facebook.com/BaaStool                        Cockpit Arts Studio 208
                                                                                 Instagram.com/baastool                       18-22 Creekside
                                                                                 Pinterest.co.uk/baastool                     London SE8 3DZ

W
                                                                                                                              Email: martina@martinaspetlova.com
      e are Leather UK. Since 1908 we have been                                  Charles Laurie London (page 30)
                                                                                 Unit 4 Picks Barn, North Luffenham Road
                                                                                                                              Web: martinaspetlova.com
                                                                                                                              instagram.com/martinaspetlova
      the trade association in the UK promoting,                                 Lyndon, Rutland LE15 8TY
                                                                                 Tel: 01572 827 770                           Owen Barry (page 26)

protecting and connecting this great British                                     Email: charlie@charleslaurielondon.com
                                                                                 Web: charleslaurielondon.com
                                                                                                                              No.3 The Tanyard, Leigh Road
                                                                                                                              Street, Somerset BA16 0HD

industry, at home and abroad. We bring together                                  Facebook.com/charleslaurielondon
                                                                                 Instagram.com/charleslaurielondon
                                                                                                                              Tel: 01458 442858
                                                                                                                              Email: info@owenbarry.com
every part of the leather supply chain, from                                     Georgina Brett-Chinnery (page 22)
                                                                                                                              Web: owenbarry.com
                                                                                                                              Facebook.com/owenbarrysomerset

tanneries to designers and everything in between.                                Tel: 07958 611910
                                                                                 Email: georgina@georginabrettchinnery.com
                                                                                                                              Instagram.com/owenbarryltd
                                                                                                                              Twitter.com/OWENBARRYOB

Our lobbying activities ensure we are heard by                                   Web: georginabrettchinnery.com
                                                                                 Instagram.com/leather_artist                 Spire Leather (page 28)

government, both nationally
                                                                                 Facebook.com/leatherartcraftmanship          Clayton Street Tannery
                                                                                 Twitter.com/Leather_artist                   Chesterfield, UK S41 0DU

and internationally.                                                             Grady + Robinson (page 24)
                                                                                                                              Email: sales@spireleather.co.uk
                                                                                                                              Web: spireleather.co.uk
                                                                                 Email: alicevrobinson@gmail.com              Facebook.com/spireleathercompany
Leather is a sustainable, beautiful product and we are proud of the work         Instagram.com/alice.v.robinson               Instagram.com/spireleathercompany
                                                                                 Email: ladysaragrady@gmail.com
that we do. We support the industry and also provide expert information          Instagram.com/saragrady                      Tania Clarke Hall (page 8)
to the media and consumers about any aspect of leather. This is a wide-                                                       Studio E6, Cockpit Arts
                                                                                 Iseabal Hendry (page 10)                     Cockpit Yard, Northington St
ranging service, from how leather is made, its sustainability credentials,       Email: hello@iseabalhendry.com               London WC1N 2NP
                                                                                 Web: iseabalhendry.com
to where to find an expert leather artisan to make a bespoke item, or            Instagram.com/iseabalhendry                  Tel: 07792 935463
refashion a favourite leather piece.                                             linkedin.com/company/iseabal-hendry/         Email: tania@taniaclarkehall.com
                                                                                                                              Web: taniaclarkehall.com
    Education and addressing misinformation is an important part of              J. & F.J. Baker & Co Ltd (page 18)           Facebook.com/TaniaClarkeHallJewellery
our role. Our website hosts a wide range of factsheets and videos in             Hamlyns, King Street Colyton                 Instagram.com/tania_clarke_hall
                                                                                 Devon EX24 6PD
addition to the Leather UK Directory, a repository of people, businesses,                                                     Warriner Leather Works (page 20)
                                                                                 Tel: 01297 552282                            Tel: 07455 974742
events, training courses and other sources of information. We also work          Email: info@jfjbaker.co.uk                   Email: warrinerleatherworks@gmail.com
with education faculties to support and develop the next generation              Web: jfjbaker.co.uk                          Web: warrinerleatherworks.co.uk
                                                                                 Instagram.com/bakerstannerycolyton           Facebook.com/warrinerleatherworks
of leather technologists and design and fashion students. Through our            Facebook.com/bakerstannery                   Instagram.com/warrinerleatherworks
two industry trust funds, leather practitioners can apply for awards for
                                                                                 Joshua Millard (page 32)                     Welsh Organic Tannery (page 12)
industry-relevant training to further their careers. Our promotion of            1 Marlborough Court, Soho, London W1F 7EE    Henllan Amgoed, Whitland SA34 0SE
leather craft and involvement in the development of training in leather          Email: enquiries@joshua-millard.com          Tel: 07966 470421
                                                                                 Web: joshua-millard.com
and leather goods manufacture is vital in developing the next generation         Instagram.com/joshua.millard
                                                                                                                              Email: info@welshorganictannery.co.uk
                                                                                                                              Web: welshorganictannery.co.uk
of makers and leather manufacturers.                                                                                          Instagram.com/welshorganictannery
                                                                                 Karl Donoghue (page 14)
    We put businesses and people in touch with each other, in addition to        14 Cube House, 5 Spa Road
                                                                                                                              Twitter.com/WelshTannery

hosting regular events and other networking opportunities.                       London SE16 3GD
                                                                                 Press contact: Viktoria Fulop
                                                                                 Tel: 020 7231 0101
                                                                                 Email: viktoria@karldonoghue.com
                                                                                 Web: karldonoghue.com
                                                                                 Instagram.com/karldonoghue
                                                                                 Facebook.com/KarlDonoghueCollections
                                                                                 Linkedin.com/company/karl-donoghue
  Contact details
  Leather Trade House, Kings Park Road
  Moulton Park, Northampton NN3 6JD
  Tel: 01604 679999
  Email: info@leatheruk.org
  Web: leatheruk.org
  Web: leatherukdirectory.co.uk
  Twitter: Leather_UK
  Instagram: leather_uk
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