Journeys o f flavour - WIN! PRIZES FROM - Gourmet Guide

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Journeys o f flavour - WIN! PRIZES FROM - Gourmet Guide
journeys of flavour

             MAGAZINE
             AUTUMN 2019

       WIN!                   HAUTE
                             TRAVEL
                            PROPERTY
      PRIZES FROM
   GREAT DOMAINES            CUISINE
 DEEP SOUTH DISTILLERY       DRINKS
     JACANA MEDIA          FAVOURITES
                             READS
Journeys o f flavour - WIN! PRIZES FROM - Gourmet Guide
Contents                                                                          Amuse bouche
Amuse bouche                                                                      WELCOME TO AUTUMN, A TIME
Welcome from the editor 3                                                         WHEN WE START TO COCOON AND
                                                                                  COOK A LITTLE MORE AS THE DAYS
Haute travel                                                                      GET SHORTER AND THE NIGHTS
                                                                                  LONGER. WE HAVE SOME SUPERB                   and chocolate, take a break in magical
Mauritius, take the coastal road                                                                                                Mauritius, start your own wine cellar or
 to culinary heaven 4                                                             RECIPES IN THIS EDITION, SOME
                                                                                  ELEMENTARY, SOME AMBITIOUS,                   set a table. If local travel is for you, then
Switzerland, in the land of cheese                                                                                              consider a culinary tour to Durban and
                                                                                  ALL DELICIOUS. IT’S A TIME WHEN
 & chocolate 10                                                                                                                 the midlands.
                                                                                  WE COULD START TO PACK ON THE
Culinary delights of Durban
                                                                                  WINTER KILO’S…OR TAKE SOME TIPS
 & surrounds 16                                                                                                                 In curating the annual printed JHP
                                                                                  FROM THE WHOLESOME TEAM AT
                                                                                                                                Gourmet Guide™ with its plate rating
                                                                                  SANTÉ WELLNESS RETREAT.
Haute property                                                                                                                  we study what the world is wanting
Fyn 20                                                                            South Africa is still celebrating the well-   in the way of restaurant experiences.
Gåte 26                                                                           deserved win of Kobus van der Merwe           This varies from formal fine dining
Santé Wellness Retreat and Spa 30                                                 of Wolfgat, awarded ‘Restaurant of the        like the 16-course culinary adventure
                                                                                  Year’ and best ‘Off Map Destination’          at Gåte, to having a world-class
When haute?                                                                       restaurant in the World Restaurant            meal in a more relaxed setting, like
What’s fresh and in season 34                                                     Awards in February. Having won the            Japanese-influenced local cuisine –
                                                                                  Haute Provenance award in the 2019            condensing what could be a lengthy
                                                                                                                                kaiseki experience into what could be
Haute performance                                                                 JHP Gourmet Guide™, we knew it
                                                                                  would be a cinch! This award is given         dubbed Japanese tapas at Fyn. With
Dineplan 36
                                        Content and contributors                  as part of the growing movement of            provenance playing a more celebrated
Michelin-star restaurants               • Jenny Handley
                                                                                  acknowledging and celebrating the origin      role, diners also wish to see more
 around the world 39                    • Natalie Brock
                                        • Wilna Combrinck                         of ingredients, making the most of what       of who and how their food is being
                                        • Debbie Hathway                          is available – local, organic and original.   prepared. That’s where we come in –
Haute drinks                            • Christine Lundy                                                                       talking to the chefs, finding out what
Curate your own wine cellar 44          • Karen Dudley                            Everyone loves winning. I was delighted
                                        • Kristen Brock                           to be bestowed the ‘Best Food Column’         inspires them, and sharing their recipes
Deep South Distillery 47                                                                                                        with you.
                                                                                  award by Cape Town Experiences, in
                                        Cover image
                                                                                  esteemed company – Jan Hendrik van
Haute cuisine                           Vaughan Treyvellan and Le coin Français                                                 Whilst the Gourmet Guide team
                                                                                  der Westhuizen won the ‘Stalwart Chef’
Rated chefs from the 2019 JHP Gourmet                                                                                           continues to taste, travel and train (we
                                        Contact details                           award, Byron Thebus of Sense of Taste
 Guide™ share their recipes 48          P.O. Box 32216, Camps Bay, 8040                                                         love sharing skills in this wonderful
                                                                                  Chef School won the ‘Rising Star Chef’,
                                        +27 437 0334 | rsvp@jhpr.co.za                                                          industry we call hospitality), I wish you
                                                                                  and our partners Dineplan won the ‘Most
Haute favourites                        www.gourmetguide.co.za
                                           jhp_gourmet_guide                      Innovative Tech Solution in the FBI’.
                                                                                                                                happy reading and cooking. I urge you
A sommelier and producer share             jenny_handley
                                                                                                                                to share – invite your friends to share
 a few of their favourite things 56        Jenny Handley Performance              There is something for everyone on the        this culinary journey with us.
                                           Management
                                                                                  menu in this edition – if you too wish
Haute reads                             Stock images from unsplash.com            to win, or cook, or dine out. Join us on
Karen Dudley 60                                                                   a whirlwind trip to the land of cheese        Jenny Handley
Journeys o f flavour - WIN! PRIZES FROM - Gourmet Guide
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Culinary Heaven    TAKE THE
           COASTAL ROAD TO

               BY DEBBIE HATHWAY

                 HAUTE TRAVEL
Journeys o f flavour - WIN! PRIZES FROM - Gourmet Guide
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I WAVED UNTIL THE CAR ROUNDED                       New Year. Bhatia’s menu comprised
THE CORNER AND I LOST SIGHT                         typically flavourful bursts of ingredient
OF MY LUX* BELLE MARE FAMILY.                       combinations that boggle the mind
IT WAS A RELUCTANT FAREWELL,                        and silence conversation as diners are
EASED ONLY BY THE PROSPECT OF                       distracted by the exuberant reactions
AN IMMINENT RETURN VISIT.                           of their taste buds to his quintessential
                                                    contemporary Indian cuisine. Every dish
I’ve given up trying to get Mauritius out           is, of course, art on a plate. Even the
of my system. The island and its people             amuse bouche was presented on an
hold a magic for me that is difficult to            upturned hand modelled from clay.
explain. My sense of feeling well when
I’m there, rain or shine, has something             The Chaat Trilogy was a tangy take on
to do with it. I eat better, healthier, under       three favourite chaats (Indian street food)
the watchful eyes of esteemed chefs                 of aloo papdi, dahi puri and dahi bhalla.
eager to cater to my every whim. The                If he’d closed his eyes, my host – Ashish
heat suppresses hunger and increases                Modak, regional manager for LUX* Belle
thirst so I get closer to the desired eight         Mare, LUX* Grand Gaube and Merville
glasses of water a day too.                         Beach – well familiar with the conventional
                                                    presentation of these snacks, might have
I favour a pescatarian diet, mildly                 thought he was eating ice cream instead of
spiced (if at all), and manage only                 a new take on a lentil dumpling had Bhatia
small quantities. Even Michelin-starred             not introduced the course.
chef Vineet Bhatia couldn’t have
prepared tinier tastes of his five-course           The Amari by Vineet team does special
Amari by Vineet menu for me during                  things with seafood and chicken and
LUX* Belle Mare’s popular Chefs’                    the IndoChini lobster and smokey
Week in February 2019, coinciding                   tikka certainly showcased their skills
with the celebration of the Chinese                 in the kitchen. The succulent lobster

  The world-class chefs at LUX* Belle Mare in
Mauritius delighted gourmands with special menus created
    for the resort’s second annual Chefs’ Week.

                                        HAUTE TRAVEL
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                     was prepared in chilli, garlic, soy           world in the Traveler's Choice Awards         portion that was deceptively light and
                     and coriander, tossed with curry              by TripAdvisor for 2019, the LUX*             incredibly nourishing. A vegetarian’s
                     leaf noodles, and finished with a             Collective’s quest to reduce waste            dream dish! Dessert was a choice
                     sesame-peanut crumble. The carefully          and be ever more sustainable in               between frozen calisson (candies) or
                     positioned fleshless tail provided            its overall offering has reflected in         tart with fig and gratinated almond
                     decorative flourish.                          healthier options in smaller quantities       with lavender ice cream. I chose
                                                                   (to be replenished as necessary) on           the former, wishing I’d had enough
                     I chose the cardamom-smoked, tomato-          every buffet. This is noticeable at           room to try Galette’s version of this
                     red-pepper chicken tikka served with          breakfast, too.                               Provencale treat. “I worked for a long
                     tomato chutney, black garlic and churra                                                     time in Provence, with one of the
                     paratha above the lamb alternative,           Another culinary highlight that week          best chefs – the late Roger Verge. I
                     only just managing to leave enough            was the Summer specials from                  was 14 when I met him,” says Galette.
                     space for the classic Indian dessert.         Provence evening at the ever-popular          “I started in the kitchen, and saw
                                                                   Beach Rouge restaurant. Prepared by           one guy in the corner calmly making
CHEF VINEET BHATIA   The awesamosas comprised a carrot-            chef Vikash Joaheer and French-born           extraordinary and elegant creations
                     chocolate samosa filled with slow-            executive pastry chef Pascale Galette,        with chocolate and pastry. I decided I
                     cooked carrot fudge, curdled into a           they knew they’d nailed it when a             wanted to be like that.”
                     type of carrot cream used to make             guest who hails from this area in
                     the sauce swish on the plate, and             France said he couldn’t have enjoyed
                     the ever-present Bhatia favourite –           better at home!
                     a lolly of glazed carrot. It was all served
                     and savoured in under two hours so            The amuse bouche was red tuna                    If you’re salivating reading this,
                     that I could catch the performance of         minute, comprising a thin slice of               best you book for the next Chefs’
                     renowned local group, the Famous9,            Provencal ratatouille with salsa                 Week celebrating the diverse
                     and work off the meal on the dance            of tomato, watermelon and yuzu                   culinary cultures of Mauritius in
                     floor. Bhatia is quite likely the only        pearl. I opted for the rockfish                  November 2019. It’s an extremely
                     Michelin-starred chef in the world            soup from Marseille starter, which               popular event so keep an
                     who would entertain that desire               was absolutely delicious, and a                  eye on luxresorts.com for the
                     and produce his always incredible             Provencale tian tart in tomato sauce             announcement of the confirmed
                     concoctions under time pressure, an           with fresh basil as the main. I could            dates. See you there!
                     effort for which I am eternally grateful.     live on this at home – a substantial

                     Earlier that week I enjoyed a Surf n
                     Turf banquet under the stars at the
                     Sandy Toes restaurant closer to the
                     beach. Oohs and aahs were audible
                     as guests tucked into the small buffet,
                                                                       I’ve given up trying to get Mauritius out of my system.
                     while a roving group of local singers
                     and musicians played softly in the
                                                                        The island and its people hold a magic for me that is
                     background. Over the years that I’ve
                     been visiting this hotel, voted third                                difficult to explain.
                     best all-inclusive luxury resort in the

                                                                                                       HAUTE TRAVEL
Journeys o f flavour - WIN! PRIZES FROM - Gourmet Guide
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 Cheese
    &
                    IN THE LAND OF

chocolate
 Jenny Handley recalls her whirlwind
    visit to Lausanne, Switzerland.
                                       HAUTE TRAVEL
Journeys o f flavour - WIN! PRIZES FROM - Gourmet Guide
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                          LAUSANNE, A PICTURESQUE                         only opens at noon on a Sunday in the
                          CITY WITH ITS COMMANDING                        country of chocolate, so I turned to a
                          POSITION ON LAKE GENEVA, IN                     fellow passenger to ask firstly, if she
                          THE FRENCH-SPEAKING REGION                      spoke English, and secondly, if she had
                          OF VAUD, SWITZERLAND, IS HOME                   any suggestions. A few minutes later
                          TO THE INTERNATIONAL OLYMPIC                    she returned to invite me to join her and
                          COMMITTEE HEADQUARTERS. THIS                    some other inconvenienced travellers
                          OLD CITY, CREEPING UP THE HILL,                 to taxi to a station 30 minutes away,
                          BOASTS A 12TH-CENTURY GOTHIC                    past the point of the accident. Before I
                          CATHEDRAL AS A LANDMARK                         knew it, I was chatting away to a couple
                          AMONGST MEDIEVAL STREETS AND                    heading home after charity work in
                          SHOPS. THE 19TH-CENTURY PALAIS                  Tanzania, my new best friend en route
                          DE RUMINE HOUSES FINE ART AND                   to her knitting convention, and a young
                          SCIENCE MUSEUMS.                                woman and her beautifully-behaved
                                                                          Labrador on the front seat.
                          When you have to be in Lausanne,
                          Switzerland for just a few days, you            When the taxi drew to a halt at Olten
                          want to make the most of it. When               station the Tanzania tourists insisted on
                          flying SWISS Business your holiday              getting an itinerary printed for me, and
                          starts at check-in with a warm welcome          then saw me onto the correct platform (I
                          and your bags being safely and swiftly          did not think it would be a good time to
                          swept away. A glass of bubbles on               tell them that I am a seasoned traveller).
                          board and I was ready to settle into a          Whilst waiting, I struck up conversation
                          delicious dinner, a movie and horizontal        with a man who hails from New York,
                          sleep. Dinner began with smoked                 had been in Japan to see his girlfriend,
                          salmon, capers and a balsamic glaze,            but lives in Lausanne. Two trains and
                          followed by a chicken breast stuffed            two hours later, after sharing coffee and
                          with Gruyere with potato rosti, rounded         the most heart-stopping views of the
                          off with the best of Switzerland’s              Lake Geneva and the winelands that
                          cheese and chocolates. A very early,            hug the hills, he walked me to my hotel.
                          tasty breakfast and then before I knew          The Swiss are efficient yes, but more
                          it, touchdown at Zurich airport.                importantly, so helpful and friendly.

                          I was relieved to board a direct train          Booking into Lausanne Palace Hotel on
                          from Zurich airport to Lausanne. What           a Sunday afternoon when all the shops
Images by Jenny Handley

                          should have been a 2.5 hour trip turned         in the town are closed, is no hardship.
                          into a half-day, three trains and one           A bottle of Taittinger Brut Reserve
                          taxi adventure! Sadly, a train accident         on ice, with local artisanal chocolate,
                          had occurred, so after a short while            softened the blow that there would be
                          the train stopped at a little station in        no retail therapy. I opened the doors of
                          the middle of nowhere and we were               my room and admired the panoramic
                          told to alight. The information kiosk           view of the lake and city. Postcard

                                                              HAUTE TRAVEL
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pretty. It was the perfect place to spend        experience. It was. The best way for a
a few days of business and pleasure.             South African to be able to afford to eat
                                                 at a two Michelin-star restaurant is to take
I had a full day at leisure ahead before         advantage of a lunch-hour special. And
my late-night flight. An hour in the spa         special it was, each mouthful created a
and hamman, a healthy breakfast and              new food memory.
time to read the New York Times, I
was ready for action. I first visited the        The train trip back to Zurich was scenic
Olympic Museum and gardens, and then             and uneventful, and after two hours
set off on a two-hour trot along Lake            of peace and quiet in the SWISS first
Geneva, past runners, people walking             and business class lounge, I boarded.
their dogs and older persons sitting             Cuisine lived up to expectations. Swiss
on the benches watching the world go             International Air Lines and their chefs
by. The concierge at Lausanne Palace             consider the fact that your faculty of
had suggested that I walk far enough             taste is affected by the altitude and
to see the vineyards at Lutry. I walked          the dishes were perfectly flavoured.
into this quaint little village from the         Each season a top chef plans the
lake, a warren of shops and houses               menu and focuses on one of the
set on small streets. It is the gateway          cantons of Switzerland. For my flight it
into the Lavaux Vineyard Terraces,               was Chef Lorenzo Albrici of Locanda
a 30-km stretch of vines, a UNESCO               Orico in the Ticino Canton. Ticino
World Heritage site. The overcast skies          was well showcased in the marinated
converted themselves to puffy white              king prawns with melon and the main
cotton wool balls on a bright blue               course of Mediterranean-style salmon.
backdrop by the time my walk came to             The cheese and chocolates, to which
an end. These few hours of reflection            I had become so addicted, were also
were what I needed.                              delicious. I love that passengers are also
                                                 offered the quicker option should they
After showering and smartening up I took         wish to have a lighter, speedy meal so
an Uber to stately Beau-Rivage Palace            that they can snooze immediately rather
Hotel, walked around the manicured               than wait for dinner. No sooner had I
grounds, and gasped at the beautiful             opened my eyes after a comfortable
high-class items on display in the gift shop     night of sleep were my feet back on
when converting to ZAR. I announced              SA soil, ready to face the day after a
myself at Anne-Sophie Pic’s restaurant for       whirlwind weekend in the city of cheese
what I knew would be an unforgettable            and chocolate, with Champagne.

       This old city, creeping up the hill, boasts a 12th-
           century Gothic cathedral as a landmark.
                                      HAUTE TRAVEL
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Durban & surrounds                              CULINARY DELIGHTS OF

                       Consider cuisine as one of the
                    drawcards to Durban and surrounds

 The iconic OYSTER BOX HOTEL offers                 Glenwood Bakery – “For overboard
 more than the ubiquitous lighthouse                delicious.” When she headed down
 view. The Ocean Terrace curry buffet               to Cape Town recently, she not only
 is a must for any curry lover. Their Grill         secured a dinner reservation at The
 Room is the perfect place to celebrate             Test Kitchen, but also the opportunity
 fine dining with five-star finesse. If high        of cooking there for the day. She is
 tea is top of your list, then head to              constantly learning, heading further
 the BEVERLEY HILLS HOTEL where                     afield to cook with the likes of Clare
 the sumptuous spread satisfies any                 Smythe and Michel Roux Jnr in
 discerning appetite.                               London – so know that you will want
                                                    to return to follow her expansion.
 Locals are quick to laud THE CHEF’S
 TABLE in Umhlanga for squeezing                    As a winner of the SASSI trailblazer
 Durban onto the fine dining scene.                 award, it comes as no surprise
 Here humble, talented chef Kayla-                  that her favourite ingredient is
 Ann Osborn has quickly made a                      seafood, sourced from a local fishing
 name for herself and elevated the                  boat. Dishes are light, carefully
 coastal town’s reputation for cutting              considered and beautifully plated.
 edge, innovative cuisine. Her food                 The Summer pea brulee – whole
 philosophy is simple, “I want my food              milk cheese curd, tomato broth,
 to be forward-thinking, progressive,               smoked tomato and pea shoot –
 interesting for me and diners. First and           is delectable. Regulars return for
 foremost, food must be delicious,” she             the paella, with cuttlefish, tomato
 says. Ask this innovative chef where               saffron puree, marinated peppers,
 she chooses to eat, and she suggests               sardines, chorizo saffron dressing
 Summerhill – “for interesting food                 and rice chip. The six-course menu
 created from local produce”, Park                  at R595 may make some locals balk
 Cafe, “For their chicken livers,” and              at the price but know that every

                                        HAUTE TRAVEL                                         HARTFORD HOUSE
Journeys o f flavour - WIN! PRIZES FROM - Gourmet Guide
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mouthful will give a great return on            Mathew’s ethos? “Take an ingredient
investment. Knowledgeable sommelier             that is almost not to my liking and
Zwai Gumede will give good advice on            make it beautiful. For example crab
pairings.                                       apple tart – a chef must find the beauty
                                                within (and his crab apple tart is truly
HARTFORD HOUSE has a history of                 delicious). Flavour must come first – I
accomplished chefs who used this                smell two different ingredients, then
platform to hone their skills – Richard         experiment by combining them. I will
Carstens, Jackie Cameron and Tjiun                                                                                 EXECUTIVE CHEF KEVIN JOSEPH
                                                always find new ingredients, new ways
Hahndiek. A guesthouse with 17 rooms                                                           OYSTER BOX HOTEL    OF OYSTER BOX HOTEL
                                                and new pairings.” Expect a menu that
and suites near Mooi River on an                starts with gentle flavours that increase
equestrian estate, it oozes calm and            in intensity as it progresses. Simplicity is
tranquility. After a sumptuous meal you         part of Mathew’s art.
can rest your head in a room where
the Queen and Winston Churchill slept           CAFÉ BLOOM is one of the perfect
(surely not at the same time!).                 stops along the Midlands Meander,
                                                five routes of venues and artisans.
Brand new and bursting with                     Here local produce is transformed into
enthusiasm is Mathew Ambruster,                 hearty, tasty dishes. Breakfast, tea
who took over in January this year.             (their home bakes are to die for) and a
Hailing from The Chef’s Table, where            buffet lunch are all worthwhile. Local
he worked after studying and working            produce in the Midlands is where the
in the US (where he was born), he has           potential of this area lies – from Mooi
ticked off mountains and city to be at          River butter, Swissland cheese, the full
the sea as his first head chef position.        range of dairy products from Indezi
Having grown up with a nonna, be                River Creamery to Peel’s Honey. A
sure that you will see his heritage in a        quick chat to new owner of the Mount
perfect pasta somewhere on his tasting          Shekinah Conference Centre about the            THE CHEF'S TABLE   HARTFORD HOUSE
menu. He plans to constantly change             potential of the area, and you too will
the menu, to make it interesting and            be convinced that this could be the next
to always, understand the guests. This          culinary mile.
is a young man, aged 25 years, who
knows the importance of the personal            One leaves Durban and surrounds
touch – like seeing an English couple           mentally planning a return trip. Next
admiring the bounty of tomatoes in              time? Esiweni Luxury Safari Lodge, a new
the prolific vegetable garden, and then         jewel in the Relais & Chateaux crown
offering to make a tomato salad for             and 9th Avenue Bistro in Morningside
them. This garden is where he finds             for their innovative, generous cuisine.
much of his inspiration.

                                    HAUTE TRAVEL

                                                                                                THE CHEF'S TABLE   THE CHEF'S TABLE
20               21

Fynrestaurant

                                       Images by Bruce Tuck
     HAUTE PROPERTY   HAUTE PROPERTY
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                                              and experience to create a formidable       bravely enquire whether it is polite
                                              team. Peter and Ashley have embraced        to drink out of the bowl. The answer
                                              the openness of the kitchen, which          will be a quick yes, as they wish you
                                              allows for interaction and everyone to      to embrace every facet of the food.
Japanese-influenced,                          be part of the show. Here the kitchen is
                                              truly the heart of the restaurant.
                                                                                          The impala tataki with miso cream and
                                                                                          tempura shiso is apparently already a
Cape-celebrated cuisine,                      The only tablecloth in sight is the white
                                                                                          stalwart on the ever-evolving menu.
                                                                                          The palate cleanser is accompanied
                                              cloud being gently blown over Table
carefully considered                          Mountain. Your eyes are immediately
                                              drawn to the ceiling, where 6000
                                                                                          by tableside theatre, before you
                                                                                          devour the crispy duck breast with
                                                                                          Katsuobushi, bride eggplant and
                                              poplar-wood discs resembling jellyfish      sancho pepper. Take a break before
                                              are strung on ropes, creating a             settling into the sweet kaiseki –
                                              feeling of intimacy in the open space.      nectarine, Rooibos and ginger fight
SPEAKER’S CORNER MAY BE                       Designed and intricately installed by       for first place with a Madagascan
RENAMED CULINARY DREAM                        engineers, this 1.5-ton installation of     chocolate with salted Japanese
CORNER. ONCE YOU HAVE SETTLED                 wood is a feat. More wood catches           plum and fennel ice cream, and the
INTO YOUR LEATHER BANQUETTE                   your eye – tables, chopsticks and side      blueberries with yuzu and coconut.
OR A RINGSIDE SEAT AT THE                     plates – before you catch a glimpse of      Flavours of Japan and the southern tip
COUNTER, TAKE A MOMENT TO                     gleaming steel in the exposed kitchen.      of Africa are juxtaposed with aplomb.
OBSERVE PRE-SERVICE ACTIVITY AS               The mural on the wall behind the
EVERYONE GATHERS THEMSELVES                   stairway is arresting. Look carefully and   It is with a level of calm and gentle
WITH ENVIABLE SERENITY.                       you will see that the tattoo artist has     confidence that Peter, an accomplished
EVEN THE LAST BONSAI GETS A                   replicated the designs on chef Ashley’s     yet humble chef, shares his thoughts
GENTLE SPRAY OF WATER. THE                    arms in Africanese style, to draw your      on the transition from a hotel restaurant
OBVIOUS SCRAMBLE OF OPENING                   attention to the mezzanine level, where     to inner city. “Here I can cook more,
A RESTAURANT AT THE END OF                    a few tables offer the option of privacy.   I’m in the trenches with the guys,
2018 IS OVER. THE TEAM IS STILL                                                           prepping, plating starters, cooking the
EXCITED, SURELY CONFIDENT                     After canapes from bento which could        squid or the duck. The first challenging
THAT THEY ARE DISHING UP                      include a miso soup that explodes with      few months are behind us. A restaurant
EXACTLY WHAT DINERS DREAM                     flavour, and a Karoo-lamb samosa with       is about passion, but also making
OF, EVERYONE HAS FOUND THEIR                  lemon atchar and coconut yoghurt,           money. The concept for this crystallised
RHYTHM. “ASHLEY AND JENNIFER                  finish by dipping your French bread         about two years ago when I looked at
ARE REALLY THE BEST, THAT’S WHY               into bone marrow coal melting over          restaurants doing well, looked at trends
WE HIT THE GROUND RUNNING,”                   flame. The kaiseki tray is expertly         and at what I love doing. Restaurants
SAYS WORLD-RENOWNED CHEF                      explained – small dishes that in a          doing tapas were doing well for the
PETER TEMPELHOFF.                             traditional kaiseki experience would        shortened experience and sharing. I
                                              be individually served one after the        love Japanese food. The kaiseki tray
Chefs Peter and Ashley Moss from              other. Here they arrive as an array         is the equivalent of Japanese tapas. It
three-plated restaurant Greenhouse            of tempting small dishes. The squid         had not been done. There was a gap
and Jennifer Hugé from three-plated La        ramen, strips of chokka, simple yet         for not just sushi or tempura. There
Colombe have combined their talents           tantalizing in flavour, will make you       is a similarity between Japanese and

                                HAUTE PROPERTY
24                                                      25

                 African culture – look at the beads,            Service is world-class, the attentive
                 rope, wood and stone, these elements            and knowledgeable staff do not miss
                 in nature exist in both. We are doing           a beat. Enter Jennifer Hugé, who after
                 food that I want to eat. I like the flavours,   17 years at La Colombe, is legendary
                 the simplicity – low carbs, low fat and         for elevating the levels of service in
                 healthier. The secret of Japanese food          SA. She believes in leading by example
                 lies in umami, the flavour punch – diners       and can be seen doing rather than
                 leave not stuffed, but satisfied.”              instructing, to ensure that service is
                                                                 excellent.
                 Chef Ashley is all smiles, “It’s so exciting
                 to be here from the start, from concrete        “It was time to move out of my comfort
                 to completion – and they’ve done such           zone, I needed the challenge. It’s from
                 a good job.” He has loved the creativity,       Constantia to town, and I live here
                 the whole process of seeing the blank           now. I work closely with the chefs – we
                 canvas transformed into a breathtakingly        taste the food and the wine together.
                 beautiful restaurant. Classically trained       The wine list started small, it is so
                 in the European way, Ashley lived and           exciting to search fine and rare wines
                 worked in England before coming to SA.          – already the finer, rare page in the
                 “Here the flavour profiles are completely       wine list is growing. I have built up
                 different, with more subtle notes – miso        great relationships in the industry. I’m
                 to the Japanese is like butter to the           still old-school, but will introduce new,
                 French – and it adds a different richness.      funky wines. Food here requires more
                 The balance is all about minimalism,            dry wines, light rather than heavy. The
                 how much is on a plate. Portion sizes           food is very fresh and very aromatic,”
                 are small, and the condensed kaiseki-           says Jennifer.
                 inspired menu creates balance. The
                 way of service is different – little bowls,
                 interaction – we encourage guests to
                 pick up dishes and to feel the food.               The Fyn menu is R975, add the
                 This is a SA restaurant, not a Japanese            wine flight at R595, or order
                 restaurant. We are in Cape Town, but               from the carefully-crafted wine
                 we take a lot of inspiration and influence         list. From 11 March the restaurant
                 from Japan. We use the same suppliers,             will open for dinner on Mondays,
                 but our approach is different.” Ashley             and there is a possibility that
                 continues, “Here we have taken it to the           Saturday lunches could be added
                 next level, doing everything we wanted             to accommodate the many who
                 to do before, with no pre-conceptions.             have not tried Fyn’s fifth floor,
                 One of Peter’s favourite quotes is                 five-star epicurean experience.
                 ‘fortune favours the bold’, so this was a
                 leap of faith.

HAUTE PROPERTY                                        HAUTE PROPERTY
26                                                     27

Gåte Restaurant        Different and daring –
                                                                      Charles Haupt. The walkway to the
                                                                      entrance of the function room is
                                                                      lined with magnolia trees, perfect

at Quoin Rock
                                                                      for discerning brides, the walkway
                                                                      to the wine tasting and restaurant
                       be entertained and                             space crowned by metal beams. Your
                                                                      eyes are drawn to the central counter
                       enthralled                                     under a breathtaking, circular wood-
                                                                      and-light installation by Pierre Cronje,
                                                                      who also crafted the wooden tables,
                                                                      graced with a discreet Q logo. Look
                                                                      carefully and you will see a chef with
                       THE NAME GÅTE, MEANING                         eye-catching tattoos standing quietly
                       LABYRINTH OR RIDDLE IN                         at the door to welcome you. Calm,
                       NORWEGIAN, MAY SEEM STRANGE,                   humble and unassuming, even on a day
                       BUT HAVING DINED THERE, IT ALL,                when there are power outages and the
                       LIKE THE LAST PIECE OF A PUZZLE,               entire 16-course menu is being created
                       SLOTS INTO PLACE. UKRAINIAN                    outdoors, even the rice cooked on the
                       BUSINESSMAN, FOOD AND WINE-                    braai. Talk to him about food, and his
                       LOVER VITALY GAIDUK PURCHASED                  eyes light up.
                       THE PROPERTY, QUOIN ROCK
                       WINE ESTATE IN THE KNORHOEK                    Conceptual chef Rikku O'Donnchu,
                       VALLEY, IN 2012. HIS SON DENIS IS              born to a Swedish mother and Irish dad,
                       MD, WHO, WITH HIS WIFE JULIA,                  studied chemistry and music, evident in
                       AN ARCHITECT AND PROJECT                       the molecular gastronomy and artistic
                       MANAGER, TRANSFORMED A BLANK                   notes in presentation. He has learnt with
                       CANVAS INTO ARGUABLY ONE OF                    legends, worked at Michelin-starred
                       THE MOST EXQUISITE WINE ESTATE                 Merchants in London, at Restaurant
                       RESTAURANTS THE WESTERN CAPE                   Sat Bains in Nottingham, England, plus
                       BOASTS – WITH NO EXPENSE OR                    making a name for himself in the UK
                       ATTENTION TO DETAIL SPARED.                    Master Chef Professionals series in 2016.

                       The approach to this property in               He worked in Cape Town at Sevruga in
                       the Simonsberg mountain range is               the V&A Waterfront before changing the
                       breathtaking, sloping hills are covered        culinary landscape in Stellenbosch at
                       in green vines, and your very last             Gåte. This 40-seater restaurant is where
                       breath is expelled with pleasure as you        local produce (with global delights like
                       enter the restaurant. By now you have          caviar making guest appearances) is
                       worked up an appetite in the gardens           transformed into culinary masterpieces.
                       admiring the bronze sculptures by              This theatrical dining deserves an

      HAUTE PROPERTY                                     HAUTE PROPERTY
28

encore for being brave and avant-garde.        with a ‘big reveal’. Let’s refrain from
His attention to detail is exemplary,          revealing all, here are a few small
his need to surprise dramatic. Purist          clues instead. Table-side service is
epicures may raise their eyebrows,             world-class, with detailed explanations
but those wanting something out of             part of the charm. Expect a cigar
the ordinary, will raise their hands in        dipped in ash, a canned wonder, eggs
applause. “I’m mischievous, I like to play.    on straw, savoury macarons, Wagyu
Chefs take themselves too seriously –          beef seared on hot stone, and even
it’s just food, it’s not about saving lives.   delicious peacock. Your journey, all
Here it is fun dining, not fine dining,”       perfectly paired with Quoin Rock
says Rikku. Head chef Warwick King             wines, may be interrupted with the
(formerly of The Stack and Delaire Graff)      ultimate treat of sipping Louis XIII
is also no doubt having fun.                   Remy Martin. Feeling like royalty,
                                               you know the end is nigh…as your
The menu, a brass, 16-sided cube,              espresso arrives with aplomb.
demands constant turning to detect
which surprise will rock you next. From        The entire experience is threaded
ramen to Wagyu beef, quail to scallops,        together like a symphony of surprises
everything is experimental, served             which ends on a high note.

                                     HAUTE
                                        HEADING
                                           PROPERTY
31

       Autumn                                    SHARING SECRETS
                                                   FOR A HEALTHY

        Food is the crux of the matter, as Hippocrates said,
                    “Let food be our medicine.”

At the beautiful Sante Wellness                 of nutritional information, his generous
Retreat and Spa, a member of the                sharing of advice as abundant as the
Healing Hotels of the World, there              flavour and goodness in his dishes.
is a different attitude to health and
wellbeing. Here you are instantly               Starting with organic bubbly and
re-energised by the tranquil space              canapes, we dined on bone broth with
and surrounds of the Drakenstein                tomato essence, then a tuna tartare,
Mountains. One can book into the                followed by walnut-stuffed chicken
day spa, or sign up for the ultimate,           served with a delicious medley of
a health optimizing retreat – a world           vegetables in season. A vegetarian
first. Here they know that nutritious           option is always on offer. Dessert was
food is the foundation of good health.          a toasted fruit loaf with coconut ice
Meals are crafted using unrefined               cream, a chia-seed cracker and eggnog
ingredients without sugar, diary,               custard. Terrence has truly embraced
gluten, preservatives, colourants or            the methods and ethos of cooking –
additives.                                      what is fresh, seasonal, and good for
                                                health, coming up with inventive ways of
We booked for one of the popular,               replacing dairy, wheat and sugar.
regular ‘Chefs Sharing Secrets’ dinner
at the retreat restaurant, which is open        He is joined in the quest by Dr Helen Muir,
to the public for dinner. Executive chef        a respected medical doctor who went
Terrence Ford takes pride in preparing          on to study homeopathy. Exposed to the
and demonstrating a healthy three-              value of alternatives such as nutrition,
course menu whilst diners observe.              massage, yoga and acupuncture, she
Peppered with interesting nuggets               then branched into integrative medicine.

                                   HAUTE PROPERTY
32

Dr Muir explains health optimization
quite simply, “It gets to the triggers          WITH AUTUMN UPON US,                     Helen’s advice extends beyond
and causes of a disease or condition.           DR MUIR GIVES SOME SIMPLE,               diet. How about a cyber detox?
It looks at why someone is not                  EASY-TO-APPLY ADVICE:                    Keep your cellphone on airplane
functioning at their optimum level. It                                                   mode always, look at it just three
can pick up, with non-invasive, cutting        • Eat seasonal foods.                     times a day, and ensure that your
edge technology, why someone’s                 • Eat local. Eat what is grown in your    Wi-Fi is off at night.
energy is low or not feeling well.               area, it has adapted to toxins that
We then look at fixing the diet and              are particular to that area and can
increasing cellular activity with                protect itself.
technology, not a pill or a drink.”            • Try to grow your own greens, even
                                                 in a box.
                                               • Rocket grows like a weed, and baby
                                                 tomatoes too are easy.
                                               • Up your vitamin C intake, preferably
                                                 plant-based. Remember that food-
                                                 based nutrition is absorbed better.
                                               • Prevent chest infections – include
                                                 onion, nuts and apples in your diet.
                                               • Bring in broth, it is good for your
                                                 gut lining. Try to use free-range
                                                 protein as the base.
                                               • Eat sufficient fruits, vegetables
                                                 and salads. With food often being
                                                 of such poor quality, you need
                                                 between eight and 10 portions (four
                                                 to five cups) a day.
                                               • Eat protein three times a day.
                                                 Variety is important. If you are
                                                 including nuts, then try to have
                                                 different nuts each day, and
                                                 remember that macadamias
                                                 are excellent for neurological
                                                 rebuilding.
                                               • Vitamin D is essential, but food is
                                                 not a good source. Try to have 20
                                                 minutes (10 000 unites) in the sun
                                                 daily, in a bikini or with your shirt
                                                 off – a walk with the dog covered in
                                                 clothing is no good.
34

      What's
      in season        SWISS CHARD, THE STAR OF AUTUMN

As the long days of Summer slip away           Some consider it the poor cousin of
and Autumn arrives it’s advisable to           spinach, but it packs as much punch.
boost your immune system before                Look for vibrant colours, unbruised
tucking into winter-warming dishes, and        leaves and stems when shopping –
eat as many fruits and vegetables as           the leaves must be firm. The roots,
you can.                                       as with beets, are not edible. It is
                                               easy to grow, especially in alkaline
Swiss chard is thought of as a Winter          soil and warm weather. It grows over
vegetable however it’s best eaten in           half a metre high, with a lifespan of
Autumn. The other misconception is that it     two years. It needs to be refrigerated   Curbing carbs? CAULIFLOWER
originated in Switzerland – but it’s origins   once picked, preferably in paper         has become the obvious choice,
are reputed to be Sicilian. The word chard     towel to soak up moisture. It needs to   COURGETTES a close second,
is of Latin origin, meaning thistle. Popular   be well rinsed, and can be steamed,      but let’s be innovative and
in Italian and French cuisine, especially      sauteed, roasted or simply boiled.       consider all things that start with      The grand GRANADILLA has an
popular in the Provence and Rhone              It is great in smoothies and juices.     a b: BABY MARROWS, BEANS,                abundance of vitamin C to help boost
valleys, it’s high in vitamins A, C and K. A   Best news? Very low in kJ. The health    BEETROOT, BROCCOLI and                   your immune system as we head to
variety of the beet family, it can be used     benefits of eating Swiss chard include   BRUSSELS SPROUTS. They                   colder months. Enjoyed in fruit salads,
to replace spinach or kale. It is sometimes    regulating blood sugar, improving        are all fresh at your fingertips         drinks and desserts. STRAWBERRIES,
referred to as Sicilian beet, leaf beet or     bone health, brain function and blood    this season, as are RADISHES,            GOOSEBERRIES and BLUEBERRIES
silver beet. Rainbow chard, with colourful     circulation, in addition to being good   LEEKS and CELERY, the choice             all still in season, packed with
stalks, is seen in pale green, and brighter    for your blood pressure and therefore    is endless.                              vitamins, antioxidants and fibre –
yellow, orange and red, adding vibrant         heart health.                                                                     all good for you.
colour to a dish.
                                      WHEN HAUTE?                                                                         WHEN HAUTE?
36                                                                                            37

            Haute
      performance    Every good business starts with a dream.
                   Dineplan, the revolutionary restaurant booking
                 app, has realized theirs – offering a solution to
              restaurants and diners.

THE GOURMET GUIDE QUESTIONED                  launched in Cape Town called Table            G: I rented my car out to cover rent,           TURNING POINT?
PASSIONATE FOUNDERS GREG                      Magic and I had to decide to give up on       bought a scooter and ate a lot of baked
WHITFIELD (G) AND MARTIN ROSE                 ComeDine, or to quit my job sooner than       beans! For two years we drew no salaries.       G: Getting a few successful chefs to
(M) TO DISCOVER HOW THESE                     later and give this a shot. So, I resigned,                                                   back us.
ENTREPRENEURS MADE IT HAPPEN,                 cancelled some exciting holiday plans         BIGGEST MILESTONES?
                                                                                                                                            M: Franck Dangereux at The Foodbarn
TOGETHER.                                     that included Bermuda and the Cinque
                                                                                            G: The day we stopped putting money             Restaurant Noordhoek sent a mail to
                                              Terre, to come to Cape Town.
HOW DID YOU MEET AND HOW WAS                                                                into the business I felt like a massive         fellow chefs saying they needed to
THE BUSINESS CONCEPTUALIZED?                  HOW DID COME DINE, WHICH                      stress had lifted.                              support us. This got our foot in the
                                              EVOLVED INTO DINEPLAN, START?                                                                 door. Because we were local we could
G: We met at school, at Michaelhouse,                                                       M: Drawing our first pay cheque –               have a face-to-face meeting, do a
and both attended UCT. I worked in            It was on a Wednesday, over a beer, that      R2000.                                          demo and understand each of their
London in investment banking and              the dynamic duo discussed the business                                                        needs.
                                                                                            BIGGEST CHALLENGE?
then travelled South America for six          potential, and by Friday Greg had
months.                                       resigned from his job.                                                                        BIGGEST LIFE LESSON?
                                                                                            G: The financial risk, and taking things
                                                                                            personally. If it is your business, the         G: Knowing we are making the right
M: I too worked in London, not at             M: We were young and naive. We found
                                                                                            buck stops with you.                            decision at the right time. Getting to
the same time as Greg, developing             office space and started signing up
much of the software for a new online         restaurants. Booking volumes were                                                             use our gut instinct.
                                                                                            M: Trying to sell with no track record.
restaurant booking company called             far lower than we expected, we then           Restaurants would ask, who else is              In the beginning we did not know
ComeDine. The concept was based on            realised the value of automation and          using it? Once one jumps on board               anything about starting a business,
London’s TopTable model. I then learnt        real-time availability. ComeDine started in   others will. Bertus Basson was one of           and were stumped by the legalities
of a competitive company that had just        2011, and in 2013 we launched Dineplan.       our early clients.                              of SARS, how to employ staff etc.

                                HAUTE PERFORMANCE                                                                            HAUTE PERFORMANCE
38                                                                        39

Expertise comes at a price and we
could not afford it.
                                                 HIGHLIGHT?
                                                 G: There is no ceiling, we have the
                                                                                                  Dining
                                                                                                 under stars
M: We struggled to find our first                freedom to do anything, and are
employee, and we could not afford much.          directly rewarded. If you work at 9pm,
                                                 you earn more. If you come up with a
ETHOS ABOUT HIRING?                              better idea, you can try it – that is our
                                                 target, the next idea.
G: Good cultural fit is essential – a new
team member must gel with the rest of            M: The pleasure of owning this business
the team, needs to be able to have fun,          is that we say, ‘Let’s make some tech to
braai and drinks together. We need to            help restaurants be awesome.’                 Jenny Handley shares some of her stellar
keep this office environment a good
place to work.                                   G: We have the ‘power’ to create a              Michelin-star restaurant experiences
                                                 solution, to launch it and see it adapted
M: If we have any doubt we do not                by the industry. We are never completely
hire that person. Most of our staff              on holiday, but we have flexibility. The
come from recommendations from our               responsibilities do not go away.
network, family and friends. We are
currently expanding our team of 12.              LOWLIGHT?

WHAT WOULD YOU DO                                M: On the first day trying to sell
DIFFERENTLY?                                     ComeDine, hitting Long Street in Cape
                                                 Town, with my mother in tow, to sell the
G: What we did incorrectly we would              concept to restaurants, and being told
not change as we learnt from all our             by an owner that we had no chance!
mistakes. It took a long time to value
what we had built, and our offering.             ABOUT PARTNERSHIPS?
Initially we undervalued what we had.
                                                 G: We are lucky, we have known each
M: To be more confident. We feared               other since school days and trust each
overseas competition coming and                  other.
gobbling us up. We realise now that              M: We share the burdens and the
the restaurants value the fact that we           success.
are local. Whilst we feared competition,
every time they came it was a kick               The moral(s) of the story? Good to work
up the butt, it kept us on our toes,             with people you trust, nothing wrong
constantly innovating. We cannot relax,          with cementing decisions over a beer…
competition is good.                             and Bermuda can wait!

                                 HAUTE PERFORMANCE                                           ARZAK              HAUTE PERFORMANCE
LE PARC LES                                          ELENA AND                                     BELMOND LE                                   JENNY AND CHEF
CRAYERES                                             JUAN MARI                                     MANOIR AUX                                   ERIC RIPERT OF
                                                     ARZAK                                         QUAT'SAISONS                                 LE BERNARDIN

     IN THE US, UK, EUROPE AND THE                restaurants anonymously. Restaurants          note. Service is swift, attentive and        discreetly under a glass plate to provide
     EAST MANY RESTAURANTS ASPIRE                 are simply rated and included in the          seamless. Ripert is charismatic, and         a real ocean experience. Plating is artful,
     TO ATTAINING MICHELIN-STAR                   guide, or given one (very good), two          part of the treat is probably meeting        flavours are sublime. My dish of the day,
     STATUS. IN SOUTH AFRICAN WE ARE              (excellent) or three stars (the best of the   the maestro himself, as he works the         their signature, was the pigeon with
     PROUD TO HAVE THE PLATE RATING,              best). The system exists in countries         room, reconnecting with regulars and         potato feathers. RxC
     AWARDED BY THE JHP GOURMET                   where Michelin have tyre factories.           making newbies swoon. An afternoon
     GUIDE, WHICH EQUATES TO THESE                Michelin stars are awarded to a               in his library where he and his team         TWO STARS
     GLOBAL STANDARDS. ONE PLATE IS               restaurant, not a chef.                       gather inspiration from more than 1000
                                                                                                                                             LE GAVROCHE in Mayfair, London,
     AWARDED FOR EXCELLENT CUISINE,                                                             cookbooks, was a career highlight after
                                                  THREE STARS                                                                                is classical, yet extravagant French
     TWO FOR EXCEPTIONAL DINING THAT                                                            an exceptional meal. Most recently for
                                                                                                                                             cuisine. It is here that Michel Roux Jnr,
     DEMANDS A DETOUR AND THREE FOR                                                             2019, Le Bernardin was ranked number
                                                  LE BERNARDIN in New York has, in                                                           and his father before him, cemented
     WORLD-CLASS DESTINATION DINING                                                             one in the World by La Liste, the global
                                                  addition to its three Michelin stars,                                                      London as a culinary destination. The
     – WORTHY OF A FLIGHT. INITIAL                                                              food guide and review aggregator.
                                                  been rated the top restaurant in the                                                       traditional service is charming and
     VISITS ARE ANONYMOUS, AND
                                                  city. French-born chef Eric Ripert is         ARZAK, in San Sebastian, holds three         thoughtful. A series of classical dishes
     THE LAST REVIEW IS ANNOUNCED
                                                  renowned for his unique, modern               stars, with fourth-generation chef Elena,    and ingredients like rabbit or a soufflé,
     TO ALLOW THE GOURMET GUIDE
                                                  French-style seafood. The menu is             now at the helm, with her father, Juan       and a cheese trolley that will have
     INTERACTION (AND INTERROGATION)
                                                  divided into almost raw, barely touched       Mari, by her side. They pride themselves     you gasping, will bring a sequence of
     WITH THE CHEF!
                                                  and lightly cooked. The eight-course          on serving elegant, modern Spanish           flavour sensations to a close. Michel
     In 1900, the founders of the Michelin        menu is all-consuming, and one                cuisine, known as new Basque cuisine.        coming to your table for a chat, will
     guide, brothers Edouard and Andre            seldom looks up to celebrity spot.            A tour of their innovation lab, where        be the highlight. It was a treat to meet
     Michelin, created a guide for motorists      Dishes like the seared langoustine            only a handful of recipes make it to         him again in Paris when attending
     suggesting where they could service          with fennel mousseline and spiced             the menu, was followed by a peek into        Taittinger’s le Culinaire Prix cookery
     their cars and enjoy a good meal. In 1926    citrus-sambal sauce will leave an             the wine cellar. Here they have more         competition, to discover the intricacies
     they added their star-rating system, and     indelible memory in all your senses.          than 100 000 wines, carefully curated,       of maintaining his standards of
     awarded outstanding establishments for       Desserts, like the grapefruit sorbet          including a showing from South Africa.       excellence. It is interesting to note that
     excellence in cuisine. Their inspectors,     and Black Forest dessert, end an              Dishes are inventive, exciting with a        he was groundbreaking in preventing
     expertly trained food professionals, visit   epicurean experience on a high                dash of theatre – like having an iPad slid   diners taking photographs in the

                                     HAUTE PERFORMANCE                                                                           HAUTE PERFORMANCE
42

restaurant, to ensure that diners enjoy          the base of each dish – expect lobster,       ARZAK
their meal at the right temperature, in          langoustines and foie gras. The desserts
the right ambience without distractions.         are a work of art. RxC
They are offered professional
photographs should they require them!            ANNE-SOPHIE PIC at the Beau-Rivage
                                                 Palace has many stars across her
BELMOND LE MANOIR AUX                            restaurants, with two well-deserved ones
QUAT’SAISONS, Raymond Blanc’s                    at this restaurant in the garden of the
iconic manor house in Oxfordshire,               Beau-Rivage Palace overlooking Lake
demands more than a day. A walk                  Geneva. Classic, inventive, innovative
around his vast kitchen garden, where            cuisine draws diners from far and wide.
inspiration and many of the dishes               I savoured every sight and bite from the
originate from, is a good way to whet            first morsel – bright-green yuzu and pastis
your appetite for what will surely be            spheres (yuzu inside and white chocolate
an indelible gastronomic occasion.               outside) that were best enjoyed by
Take a table with garden views                   popping whole into my mouth. The amuse
before savouring dishes that perfectly           bouche included a mushroom cream on
showcase classic French cuisine,                 top of a tapioca crisp and pine tree leaf     ONE STAR                                     LA SIGNORIA is on the island of
with a light touch. Sophisticated fare,          crisp, and beetroot and celeriac chips. The                                                Corsica with its French feel at the top,
and the desserts, nothing short of a             Matcha green tea bread with Madagascar        ORO at the Belmond Hotel Cipriani is         and Italian influence at the bottom.
dream. Consider an overnight stay to             tonka bean and pepper butter was              a legendary, landmark hotel in Venice,       Most of the Michelin-star restaurants
experience a stay in the country estate,         sublime. The first of the three courses       a peaceful retreat from the hustle           are centred in Calvi, in the north. This
with a cookery course to follow – the            was frog legs from Vallorbe cooked a la       and bustle of millions of tourists. The      superb Relais & Chateau art hotel, an
chocolate course is a must. RxC                  meuniere with wild mushrooms, egg yolk        crescendo here is to dine at Oro, where      18th century manor house in a pine
                                                 cooked at 64 degrees, in a clear broth        the gold-coloured ceiling sets the scene     forest, ensures that the restaurant
LE PARC LES CRAYERES ensures that                infused with Nikka whisky. I was ready        for an unforgettable meal. Chef Davide       matches the look and ambience. Top
a stay in Reims cannot be completed              for the red mullet with celeriac, yellow      Bisetto plays with flamboyance and fine      quality ingredients are transformed
without the highlight of dining in a             Bourbon coffee, cinnamon leaf and a           ingredients to create dishes that are        into dishes with distinctive taste. Dine
Michelin star restaurant. A leisurely            bergamot emulsion. Light and delicious,       exquisitely presented in line with the       al fresco or in the intimate indoor
lunch at the sister restaurant, Brasserie        presented and explained in perfect            setting. Murano glass features in the        restaurant, but wherever know that
Le Jardin, was a good warm-up for                English by the service team who executed      plated dishes that could feature in one of   you will be treated to a skillful blend
dinner, which is the real deal. Every            every move seamlessly. I thought I was        the famed art galleries of the waterborne    of Corsican flavours, with an Asian
nuance of the evening was refined,               finishing with dessert – mirabelles from      city. The focus here is on producing pure    undertone, by chef Alexandre Fabris. RxC
from being led onto the terrace with             Lorraine with yellow wine – offered at the    flavours from fine ingredients.
Belle Epoque to start, chosen from               same time as a vast selection of Swiss                                                     RxC - these properties are part of the
more than 750 Champagnes on the                  and French cheese on a trolley – but                                                       Relais & Chateaux collection
extensive wine list. Chef Philippe Mille         was then filled to elegant sufficiency with
demonstrates original, yet refined               chocolates. These were flavoured with
cuisine, with unified silver service. As
each cloche is lifted, there are audible
                                                 mango, raspberry and rhubarb. A walk
                                                 around the gardens brought a beautiful          Michelin stars are awarded to a restaurant, not a chef.
gasps in the room. Premium produce is            experience to a close.

                                 HAUTE PERFORMANCE                                                                              HAUTE PERFORMANCE
44

   Curate your
  own wine cellar
   Dreaming of building your unique wine cellar but don’t know
where to start? Here are a few tips to get you started by food and
wine lover, Christine Lundy, Marketing Manager of Great Domaines

GAME PLAN                                     that you will need. There is no point in   to drink now and 80% to mature with          from Germany, South Africa, France and
                                              overstocking your cellar if you are not    varied drinking windows. Don’t forget        Hungary are a must. Most collectors aim
Before you rush to the bottle store,          going to have many opportunities to        to include some bigger formats such          to create a range spanning wine regions,
do some online purchases or call your         serve and share your wines. You don’t      as magnums, they are perfect vessels         style and vintages. Aspire to create
favourite importer. Take a step back and      need to have a lot of money to start       for aging and perfect for hosting as         breadth and depth to enable you as
think about your game plan. Buying wine       your collection. Obviously the bigger      one bottle is often never enough. This       some point to create horizontal (explore
and collecting wine is a totally different    the budget the more and better quality     should include red and white, young          one wine type across multiple producers
concept to buying to drink, especially        you get but if you buy cleverly you        and mature wines, every day and              and countries) or vertical tastings (same
as more than 95% of the world’s wines         can start a decent collection with just    prestige bottles. Aim to stock your          wine, multiple vintages). Also remember
are meant to be consumed within a year        R5,000 per year, increase it to R15,000    cellar with a rough ratio of three reds to   that as you embark on this journey of
or two after release. Buying wine for         or even R50,000 and then you are in        one white, and bear in mind that many        discovery, your tastes will evolve along
immediate consumption is often based          business! You may not be able to buy a     white wines (except top Chardonnays          the way, so don’t be afraid of taking
on an impulse linked to your current          premier or Grand Cru Burgundy, but you     from Burgundy, Rieslings from the            advice on wine styles to cellar that may
mood and preference. Collecting wine          can buy a village wine from a reputable    Mosel and Loire Valley Chenin Blancs         not be to your tastes initially.
means making some educated purchases,         domaine. Many prestigious producers        as well as Swartland), quickly lose their
planning, patience and a long-term            also produce a second label (like the      freshness and might oxidise if not stored    PROVENANCE
commitment. It also means that you will       Guidalberto from Sassicaia, of Château     in perfect conditions.
have the opportunity to drink some of the                                                                                             Do your homework. In addition to
                                              Musar’s Hochar Père et Fils) and this is                                                getting the right wine at the right price,
greatest wines at their optimum, as some      often a good place to start.               BUBBLES
need decades to reach their destined                                                                                                  you also need to make sure that it
complexity and maturity.                      THE BALANCED CELLAR                        A good wine collector always has some        has been stored in perfect conditions
                                                                                         bubbles, aged vintage Champagne or           and if imported that the shipment has
LIFESTYLE AND COST                            Eventually it will be all about personal   MCCs develop beautifully exotic tertiary     been done in temperature-controlled
                                              taste but a balanced cellar should         characters. And as meals should never        containers. Do some reading or take a
Based on your lifestyle decide how            contain wines to suit any occasion         finish without a sweet note some half        course such as the WSET (Wine & Spirit
many bottles you realistically foresee        following a ratio of about 20/80, 20%      bottles of Noble Late Harvest wines          Education Trust), learn about the world’s

                                    HAUTE DRINKS                                                                             HAUTE DRINKS
46                                                                                           47

                                                                   WIN!                              Deep South
                                                          AN EXPLORER CASE –
                                                         A SELECTION OF LOCAL
                                                          AND INTERNATIONAL
                                                           WINES FROM GREAT
                                                               DOMAINES
                                                             See the competitions page
                                                             on our website for details.
                                                                                                         Distillery
                                                                                                        WIN!
                                                                                                    ONE OF SIX GIN
                                                                                                     GIFT BOXES
                                                                                                     See the competitions
                                                                                                                              HAND-CRAFTED WITH
                                                                                                                            LOVE, CARE AND PRIDE
                                                                                                     page on our website
                                                                                                          for details.

major wine regions, key producers,              not near kitchen equipment with a motor.      Located in the fynbos-enriched Cape Peninsula, Deep South Distillery specializes
styles and grape varieties.                     The best option is, where possible to keep    in artisanal, hand-crafted spirits. Paying tribute to the unique floral kingdom and
                                                your wine in their original cases.            surrounds, both their gins, Cape Dry and Ruby, are gold medal award-winners.
STORAGE AND CELLARING                                                                         With a growing reputation, this warm and friendly craft distillery shares knowledge
                                                Wines have a limited lifespan so keep a       and fun in equal measure. Pay them a visit by booking a tour-and-tasting, sample
Good storage is a pre-requisite to starting     record of each wine to make sure you          from their gin recipe and botanical library, build your own cocktails and find out why
a good wine collection, the best way to         drink them in their prime drinking window.    the penguin is upside-down. Or purchase a bottle or two and try their gin-o-licious
guarantee a longer life. Lying your bottles     If you are unsure you can use a Coravin to    cocktails yourself.
horizontally in a rack means that the liquid    access a sample from the bottle without
is in touch with the cork and prevents it       compromising the quality of the wine          Support local, one sip at a time.
from drying out. Basic conditions are a         inside. A Coravin is a device that provides
space where the temperature is constant         the means to extract wine out of your         WATERMELON GIN SMASH                           RUBY HIBISCUS G&T
and no more than 19 degrees. The ideal          chosen bottle – without having to pull out
temperature should be between 11C and                                                         INGREDIENTS                                    INGREDIENTS
                                                the cork or even disturbing the foil cap or
14C. Changes in temperature will affect                                                       50ml Deep South Ruby Gin                       50ml Deep South Ruby Gin
                                                wax that conceals it.
the taste of the wine: too hot and the wine                                                   75ml of pulped, seedless watermelon            200ml Barker and Quin hibiscus tonic
will age too quickly with cooked flavours.      Lastly have fun! Collecting wine is a         25ml simple syrup                              slice of sweet ripe orange
Too cold and the cork can be affected,          way to travel in time and places from         100ml club soda                                sprig of fresh garden thyme
and risk causes of seepage and oxidative        the comfort of your own home. As              2 lime slices
flavours. If you are aiming for long term                                                     sprig of mint                                  METHOD
                                                British author Jeanette Winterson wrote,                                                     1 Pour gin over ice. 2 Add chilled
storage then you need about 12C, but for        “Wine is wonderful. Wine is earth and
short term (i.e. 5 years or so) then 18 to                                                    METHOD                                         hibiscus tonic. 3 Garnish with slice of
                                                sunshine, frost and harvest. It is solace     1 Pour gin into a glass with 3 to 4 ice        orange and float a generous sprig of
20C is fine. If stored against an external      and celebration.”
wall, make sure it is not north facing. In                                                    cubes. 2 Stir in crushed watermelon.           thyme on the top.
addition, your cellar should be dark as                                                       3 Add soda to taste. 4 Garnish with
                                                                                              2 lime slices and a sprig of mint.             CONTACT
sunlight disperses the molecules in the          Christine has recommended a wine                                                            admin@deepsouthdistillery.co.za
wine the result is lifeless and colourless       pairing for each recipe featured in                                                         +27 21 783 0129
wine. It should also be vibration free so                    this edition.

                                      HAUTE DRINKS                                                                                  HAUTE DRINKS
48

 Gourmet
Guide recipes

                                                       Image by Claire Gunn
                                  SEAWEED SALAD WITH
                               MUSHROOMS AND SEARED
  JHP Gourmet Guide™ rated     SALMON BY CHEF HAROLD
   chefs share their recipes        HURTADA OF NOBU

              HAUTE CUISINE
50                                                                                  51

                                                              OSTRICH FILLET AND PEARL                            SEAWEED SALAD WITH
                                                              COUSCOUS SALAD                                      MUSHROOMS AND SEARED
                                                                                                                  SALMON
                                                              INGREDIENTS
                                                              Grilled ostrich fillet                              INGREDIENTS
                                                              4 fillets                                           Salad
                                                              salt, pepper                                        20g wakame seaweed
                                                              extra virgin olive oil                              200g salmon
                                                                                                                  dash sunflower oil, to sear
                                                              Pearl couscous
                                                              1C pearl couscous                                   Sauce
                                                              1 onion, diced                                      dot of wasabi
                                                              1 carrot, diced                                     30ml rice vinegar
                                                              1t harissa paste                                    15ml light soy sauce
                                                              1t cumin                                            1t sunflower oil
                                                              ½ cucumber
                                                                                                                  Plating
                                                              salt to taste
                                                                                                                  10 leaves baby spinach
                                                                                                                  50g shiitake mushrooms, some sliced
                                                              Garnish
                                                                                                                  and others left whole
                                                              labneh (Greek yoghurt)
                                                                                                                  1 spring onion, finely chopped
                                                              pomegranate molasses

                                                              METHOD                                              METHOD
                                                              Grilled ostrich fillet                              Salad
                                                              1 Season with salt, pepper and extra                1 Soak the seaweed in warm water for
                                                              virgin olive oil. 2 Grill in a hot pan until        5 minutes then drain and squeeze out
                                                              medium rare. 3 Rest the fillet for a few            any excess water. If the wakame is
                                                              minutes before slicing across the grain.            uncut, chop it into bite-sized pieces.
                                                                                                                  2 Sear the salmon in a frying pan in a
                                                              Pearl couscous                                      dash of sunflower oil for 30 seconds on
                                                              1 Boil the pearl couscous in water for              each side. 3 Remove from the pan and
                                                              approximately 9 minutes, until al dente.            slice thinly.
                                                              2 Fry onions, carrots, harissa and cumin.
                                                              3 Slice cucumber in half, lengthways                Sauce
                                                              and deep seed. 4 Blow torch cucumber                1 Mix all the ingredients together and
                                                              and dice. 5 Combine all ingredients                 set aside.
                                                              together and mix well. 6 Season.
                                                                                                                  PLATING
                                                              PLATING                                             1 Arrange spinach leaves, mushrooms,
Image by Jono Nienaber

                                                              1 Serve grilled ostrich and couscous                seaweed pieces and salmon in a bowl.
                                                              with a tablespoon of labneh and drizzle             2 Top with the spring onion and serve
                                                              with pomegranate molasses.                          with the sauce on the side.

                                                              SERVES 4                                            SERVES 1
                         OSTRICH FILLET AND PEARL COUSCOUS
                          SALAD BY CHEF GRAHAM NIELSON OF     WINE: DAVID & NADIA GRENACHE                        WINE: BASTARDO 2017 FROM
                                          9TH AVENUE BISTRO   2017 (SA) – R330                                    CONCEITO (PORTUGAL) – R360
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