LE SUN A taste of autumn - LANGUEDOC & PROVENCE - Languedoc Sun

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       LE SUN
       LANGUEDOC & PROVENCE
                                                          Autumn
                                                           2018
                                                           N°69

  So French...                               Get to know...
  2CV - a motoring icon                         Festive fare
  Your driving licence                         Devil's Bridge

       A taste of autumn
                                                 Jean genies

       Lifestyle - Culture - Events - History - Cuisine
LE SUN A taste of autumn - LANGUEDOC & PROVENCE - Languedoc Sun
GOOD BYE                                                                                                                  CONTENT
                                                                                                                                                              Dear friends,                                                                                4      Introducing our contributors
                                                                                                                                                              This will be the last issue of Le SUN you’ll be reading for the time                         5      Cover artist: Annette Morris
                                                                                                                                                              being – in a magazine format, at least.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Lifestyle
                                                                                                                                                              My children have now both left home to study, and so it’s time for a                         6  Forever in blue jeans
                                                                                                                                                              change of direction for me as publisher. Le SUN has been a huge part                         22 Mother without a hood
                                                                                                                                                              of my life since I arrived back in France after living in the UK for many
                                                                                                                                                              years. I co-founded the English-speaking BritsNîmes association in                                   Artist & Artisans
                                                             global advertising                local expertise                                                2004, and then started the magazine two years later, as I wanted to                          8  Ian Berry - a world in denim
                                                                                                                                                              share all the invaluable information that came out of the association’s                      18 The Lachize jewellers
                                                                                                                                                              meetings in writing so that everybody could benefit.
                                                                                                                                                              The magazine has been a fantastic adventure – meeting so many                                        Meet the authors
                                                                                                                                                              wonderful people, numerous discoveries, learning so much,                                    10     Gayle Smith Padgett
                                                                                                                                                              travelling, visiting, eating... I’ve enjoyed every minute!                                   11     Barbara Farber
                                                                                                                                                              As the mother of two Anglo-French kids, Le SUN has also helped me                                    Culture & History
                                                                                                                                                              enormously on a personal basis through the years, including your                             14     The 2CV at 70
                                                                                                                                                              feedback and articles on raising bilingual children, experiences                             20     Aniane and the Devil's Bridge
                                                                                                                                                              with mixed-nationality couples, stories of expat life and much
                                                                                                                                                              more – it’s so important to feel we are not alone.                                                   In the Know
                                                                                                                                                              I would like to thank all of you - my lovely team (past and present),                        16 Exchanging your driving licence
                                                                                                                                                              our contributors and you, our readers, you’ve given us so much
RÉF. 2247937                                                  RÉF. 2234664                                                                                    energy and positivity through the years.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Liquid assets
UZES                                290 000 €                 LE CAILAR                           631 500 €                                                   I would also like to thank all our advertisers who’ve made the                               24 Drinking in a winter wine-derland!
                                                                                                                                                              magazine possible over the years - and a special “thank you” goes
                                                                                                                                                              to AXA agence Stoker in Nîmes, who have supported us from the                                        Cuisine
                                                                                                                                                              very beginning. However, even though the magazine itself is no                               26     Festive, fun and easy
                                                                                                                                                              more, we’ll be continuing to post articles and items of interest
                                                                                                                                                              on our Facebook page, so why not check in and join us on www.                                28     Sun Pages
                                                                                                                                                              facebook.com/LPSUN to keep up with what’s going on?
                                                                                                                                                              Thank you again – it’s been a wonderful 12-year journey, and you
                                                                                                                                                              will all stay in my heart and my memory forever.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Laurence Boxall

RÉF. 2111437                                                  RÉF. 2209732
SAINT AMBROIX                       527 000 €                 NIMES                               649 000 €

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                                                                                                                                                                   Laurence Boxall                          Griet Meeus                          Vincent Mallard                      Sian Griffiths Bell
                                                                                                                                                                    06 85 54 68 87                         06 02 25 94 33                        06 61 74 89 70
                                                                                                                                                              contact@languedocsun.com                griet@languedocsun.com               vincent@languedocsun.com                 sian@languedocsun.com
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ALES                                295 000 €                 NIMES                               485 000 €                                                                          LE      SUN, 17 rue des Bartavelles, 30132 Caissargues, France www.leSUN.fr
                                                                                                                                                                    Published by Association Languedoc News. Dépot légal à parution ISSN 2257-4859 All material copyright©2018
                Tél.   +33 (0)4 22 32 60 40                     �   contact@blue-square.com                                                                    The Publisher cannot be held liable for any loss or damage suffered as a result of information herein, nor accept responsibility for views expressed
                                                                                                                                                                by contributors and advertisers. L’éditeur décline toutes responsabilités pour les textes et publicités insérés qui n’engagent que les annonceurs.
                                                                                                                                                                                             La rédaction n’est pas responsable des points de vue exprimés dans les témoignages.
Gard   �   Hérault     �   Va u c l u s e   �   Bo u ch e s - d u - R h ô n e   �   Va r   �   Alpes Maritimes
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Autumn 2018 Le SUN 3
LE SUN A taste of autumn - LANGUEDOC & PROVENCE - Languedoc Sun
OUR CONTRIBUTORS TO THIS ISSUE                                                                                                                                 Cover artist: Annette Morris
               Be part of it — tell us who you are, where you live and what you're doing!
                                                                                                                                                               A freelance website designer and      If you have an interest in sketching,
We want to know what’s happening where you are, what you think of our magazine and what you'd like to
                                                                                                                                                               marketing consultant, Annette is      drawing or painting, finding out
            see in it, so please feel free to get in touch with us: contact@languedocsun.com
                                                                                                                                                               also the founder of Urban Sketchers   more about Urban Sketchers
                                                                                                                                                               Languedoc (a local chapter of         Languedoc or taking part in one
                  Nicole Hammond is a bilingual                                                                                                                the internationally recognised        of Annette’s workshops, follow
                    Brit who has been living in the                            Sian Griffiths Bell enjoyed                                                      community) and Director of ErinHill   the Sketch Languedoc Facebook
                    Languedoc region since 2002.                              a long career in the luxury                                                      Sketching France.                     page for details www.facebook.
                    With a wealth of experience of                            hospitality industry, ranging from                                                                                     com/sketchlanguedoc
                    French life - including seven years                       working on the QE2 to heading up                                                 Annette organises a meet-up
                    in real estate, French-to-English                         PR and communications for the                                                    for Urban Sketchers Languedoc         The sketch featured on the cover
                    translation, teaching, marriage,                          world’s oldest international luxury                                              at least once a month in a            was all done on location not far
                    divorce, childbirth, three property                       hotel company in Hong Kong. She                                                  variety of locations. These are       from her home, and includes
                    renovations and running her own                           moved to Nîmes and immediately                                                   free events for anyone with an        her yellow Citroën 2CV - also
business - Nicole is the Administrative Assistance          headed back to school in Paris to study for her                                                    interest in painting or drawing to    known as ‘Beryl’. You can watch
Coordinator for Renestance, providing useful                French government tour guide licence. She now                                                      get together and sketch to share      the video of her putting pen to
information and personal assistance to help English-        offers bespoke visits to Nîmes and the surrounding                                                 their own artistic impressions of     paper on YouTube http://bit.ly/

                                                                                                                         A
speakers navigate French administration and enjoy           area, in addition to writing, editing and translation.             nnette has been living and      this wonderful region.                sketchlanguedocyoutube
life in France to the fullest.                                                                                                 working in Hérault since
                                                                                Matthew Saunders is a wine                     2008. She has been creative     Having worked in watercolour,
                                                                               professional with over 25 years           all her life, holding her first art   gouache, pastels, oils and acrylic,
                                                                               of experience in the Languedoc.           exhibition in 1995 and undertaking    and using brushes, palette knives,
                     Rachel Pollard was born and                                                                         dozens of commissions since. One      charcoal, pens and pencils,
                    bred in Northern Ireland, and                              Combining his experience acquired
                                                                               whilst specialising in French wine        of her paintings was selected         Annette’s sketching gets back to
                    spent the last 17 years abroad.                                                                      to represent a National Park,         basics with ink and watercolour
                    Before venturing to France, she                            for Oddbins in the UK (where
                                                                               he studied with the WSET — the            but sales have never been her         for speed, portability and
                    lived in Hong Kong for 10 years                                                                      primary focus.                        practicality.
                    working in travel, art and lifestyle                       Wine & Spirit Education Trust) and
                    PR. Now based in Saint-Rémy-                               living very much as a native in his
                    de-Provence, she spends the             adopted home of the Languedoc, he now spends his
                    majority of her time looking after      time running a thriving wine tourism business, Taste du
her newborn baby and her toddler, exploring, and            Languedoc, and Inspiré Azille, a wine bar in Azille in
attempting to better her French accent.                     the Minervois.

                    Barbara Farber was born in the                             Janice Lert lives in Le Paradou in
                   United States. She and her husband                           the Alpilles hills. She is an American
                   have spent most of their adult lives                         who married an Arlesian man in
                   in Europe, mainly in Amsterdam.                              1969 and has been living in Provence

                                                                                                                                                               2 for 1 discount
                   After several years designing                                ever since. She was a French
                   children’s clothes, she changed                              teacher in the US, and since moving
                   careers and opened Galerie                                   to Provence has held a variety of
                   Barbara Farber, an avant-garde                               jobs. Now partially retired, she still
                   contemporary art gallery, which          continues her main professional activities: guiding and
became internationally renowned. The couple moved           translating. Her work as a guide for the Tourist Office
to Provence 20 years ago, and Barbara has written           in Arles has given her access to information in French           Save money on eating                                                             A prestigious
many humorous articles on life in Provence for various      about Provençal monuments and culture not regularly
                                                                                                                               out at restaurants,                                                            Christmas gift
publications.                                               available to English-speakers.
                                                                                                                               outings or cinemas                                                             for you, your
                                                                                                                              - over 100 locations                                                              family or
                     Gayle Smith Padgett A UCLA graduate with two master’s degrees (neither in French),
                     studies in Mexico and South America and a career as a language specialist in the USA and later
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 friends
                     as a management analyst and US government liaison in Germany, she discovered Provence on
                     honeymoon over 25 years ago. The love affair with France continues to this day - in retirement,
                                                                                                                             www.guide-prestige.com
                     she and her husband made France home, spending 18 months in Aix-en-Provence before moving
                     to Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, where they’ve lived for six years. Her debut memoir, Passion for                 The card is just €139 for one year, saving you up to €10,000!
                     Provence: 22 Keys to La Belle Vie, tells the tale of their French adventures — so far.
4 Autumn 2018   Le SUN                                                                                                                                                                                              Autumn 2018 Le SUN 5
LE SUN A taste of autumn - LANGUEDOC & PROVENCE - Languedoc Sun
Lifestyle                                                                                by Sian Griffiths Bell
                                                                                                                   is now on display in                                                                                   jeans in-house
                                                                                                                   the new shop) and                                                                                      before too long.
                                                                                                                   a retired weaver
                                                                                                                   taught me how                                                                                          Meanwhile word
                                                                                                                   to use it, while a                                                                                     is getting out
                                                                                                                   tailor in Marseille                                                                                    – Les Ateliers
Immortalised by Neil Diamond, while jeans are often associated with the USA, denim actually                        instructed me how                                                                                      de Nîmes have
originates from the city of Nîmes - and now a small company has started making jeans in the                        to make jeans.”                                                                                        been featured
birthplace of denim.                                                                                                                                                                                                      in local, national
                                                                                                                   The term ‘denim’                                                                                       and international
From a history degree and internet marketing career in Paris to singlehandedly trying to revive                    derives from the                                                                                       press, including
Nîmes’ denim heritage, Guillaume Sagot has his work cut out for him.                                               French serge de                                                                                        the New York
The young nîmois had always been fascinated by the town’s textile history, and in particular                       Nîmes, meaning                                                                                         Times, Monocle,
its claim to fame as the home of denim - “de Nîmes”. In 2014, at the age of 28 years, he made                      ‘serge (a sturdy                                                                                       Bonnegueule,
                                                                                                                   fabric) from Nîmes.                                                                                    BBC World,
a childhood dream come true by creating Les Ateliers de Nîmes, paying tribute to the city’s
                                                                                                                   The town once had a booming of exciting developments over the                       France 3 and M6. A partnership with
textile heritage and legendary canvas.                                                                             textile industry, and in the 18th next few months. Sagot has just                   students of the city’s Lycée Ernest
                                                                                                                   and 19th centuries was home to opened his own shop in the centre                    Hemingway created a collection of
                                                                                                                   large textile factories producing   of Nîmes, showcasing his loom                   denim-based fashions exhibited
                                                                                                                   cotton, wool and silk fabrics and   and a display of archive photos                 around town, while another
                                                                                                                   garments. Many of these fabrics     showing denim production in                     marketing initiative, in conjunction
                                                                                                                   were exported to North America,     Nîmes in former times.                          with Château Beaubois, sees a
                                                                                                                   including serge de Nîmes,                                                                limited-edition red wine
                                                                                                                   which caught the eye of                                                                  showcasing a stunning hand-
                                                                                                                   businessman Levi Strauss                                                                 made denim label created
                                                                                                                   in the 1860s. He bought it       Sagot made a childhood dream                            by Les Ateliers. Only 1,000
                                                                                                                   originally for the canopies           come true by creating                              bottles have been produced,
                                                                                                                   of gold prospectors’              Les Ateliers de Nîmes, paying                          with all profits going to the
                                                                                                                   covered wagons, but later                                                                Ateliers’ heritage efforts.
                                                                                                                   repurposed it to create            tribute to the city’s textile
                                                                                                                   workwear – and the rest          heritage and legendary canvas                            In addition to the Ateliers’
                                                                                                                   is history.                                                                               Nîmes shop, the men’s and
                                                                                                                                                                                                             ladies’ jeans collections
                                                                                                                   At the turn of the 20th century, textile   Meanwhile, with the ultimate aim         are available in various high-
                                                                                                                   production in the city slowed down,        of bringing everything – fabric          end boutiques in France and
                                                                                                                   with denim production moving to            production, cutting, stitching and       Switzerland, and online. Jackets
                                                                                                                   cheaper locations in Europe and            finishing – back to Nîmes, Les Ateliers   and bags are planned for 2019,
                                                                                                                   then Asia, and then vanishing from         launched a successful crowd-funding      with made-to-measure jeans on
                                                                                                                   the region altogether. Today over          exercise earlier this year, resulting    the horizon. Jeans start at €120
                                                                                                                   80% of denim is produced in Asia,          in the purchase of two vintage looms     per pair, and as Sagot explains, “our
                                                                                                                   while the few denim mills left in          dating from the 1950s. Originally        jeans are for people who really
                                                                                                                   Europe and North America are               made in Ypres in Belgium and used        appreciate good denim, want jeans
                                                                                                                   closing as demand for top-quality          for weaving denim in the original        that last and are distinctive. Each
                                                                                                                   denim falls, with synthetic fibres,         jean manufacturing area in northern      pair is hand-made, so you know
                                                                                                                   such as polyester, blended with            Italy, the looms have not been used      that the jeans you are wearing are
                                                                                                                   cotton to reduce costs.                    for years, but are being given a         completely unique – and you’re
                                                                                                                                                              new lease of life by a specialist        contributing to the revival of one
                                                                                                                   There is little left in the city to        technician - the last remaining          of the world’s most famous textiles
With the aim of “ramenons le         made in France from top-quality        for finishing by Sagot, including       testify to Nîmes’ once thriving            person in Europe familiar with these     in its own birthplace.”
denim à la maison” (“bringing        fabrics. While denim itself is no      inserting brass rivets and adding      textile industry, but Sagot and his        looms. After training in Italy, Sagot
denim home”) and in partnership      longer produced in France, Sagot       the distinctive Ateliers de Nîmes      partners remains upbeat. Their             starts weaving his own denim in
with his two associates, Anthony     currently sources his from Venice      leather patch.                         ambition is to produce jeans               October, aiming to produce around
Dubos and Clément Payen, Sagot       and Milan, and then hand-cuts                                                 entirely made in Nîmes – and to            30 metres of 90cm-wide fabric a               LES ATELIERS DE NÎMES
has set himself the challenge of     the jeans himself in his studio in     “I had to start completely from        launch a denim museum in Nîmes             day in a spacious new studio. With             2 Rue Auguste Pellet
reviving the city’s former savoir-   Nîmes following his own paper          scratch, as there’s no-one left in     in the future.                             weaving no longer taught in France,                30000 Nîmes
faire, or know-how. The brand is     patterns. The pieces are then          Nîmes who can make jeans,” says                                                   finding staff is a major challenge,
developing hand-crafted, high-end    sent to Marseille and Paris for        Sagot. “I do most of the work myself   The company is on track to                 but Sagot is confident all will work            ateliersdenimes.com
jeans for men and women, 100%        stitching, before returning to Nîmes   by hand - I had a loom built (which    achieve these aims, with a series          out and he’ll be producing his own
6 Autumn 2018   Le SUN                                                                                                                                                                                                Autumn 2018 Le SUN 7
LE SUN A taste of autumn - LANGUEDOC & PROVENCE - Languedoc Sun
Artist                                                                                                                      non-French beneficiary) since its      manages to create the impression of  bold, with each picture taking about
                                                                                                                            inception some 30 years ago.          gleaming metal, polished surfaces    one month to complete and using

    Ian Berry - a world in denim                                                                                            He first started working with
                                                                                                                                                                  and shiny tiled floors.

                                                                                                                            denim when he looked at a pile of His first denim images were
                                                                                                                                                                                                       between 10-20 different pairs of
                                                                                                                                                                                                       jeans. His London studio regularly
                                                                                                                                                                                                       has around 2,000 pairs of jeans

   No Paint. No Bleach. No Dyes. Just Jeans.
                                                                                                                            jeans in his old bedroom at home portraits of iconic jeans-wearers,        at any given moment, offering an
                                                                                                                            in Huddersfield, and noticed the       including James Dean, Marilyn extensive variety of textures,
                                                                                                                            contrasting shades and textures       Monroe and Debbie Harry. Since       wear-and-tear and shades of blue,
                                                                                                                            of blue. He started cutting and then, he has been commissioned to          in order to give him the widest
                                                                                                                            glueing on his bedroom floor, and      produce official portraits of Harry possible choice when creating his
                                                                                                                            quickly became celebrated as one and Dean, with his James Dean art. Jeans are donated to him by
                                                                                                                            of the Top 30 Artists Under 30, with  portrait taking pride of place in individuals and companies, ranging
                                                                                                                            his work displayed in galleries, Dean’s hometown of Fairmount,             from friends and neighbours to
                                                                                                                            museums and art fairs around          Indiana. Other commissions include brands and denim mills. Parts of the
                                                                                                                            the world, along with solo                                                        Secret Garden were created
                                                                                                                            shows in London, Europe                                                           from some of the last-ever
At first glance, Ian Berry’s works                                                                                           and the USA - including the           Ayrton Senna's portrait was                 denim produced at the Cone
look like blue-toned photos or                                                                                              home of modern jeans, San                                                         Mills White Oak plant – the
                                                                                                                                                               created with denim belonging to
paintings, especially if you see                                                                                            Francisco.                                                                        last major mill in the USA -
                                                                                                                                                                 Senna’s own family members                   which closed last year.
them online or in print. However
                                                                                                                            Now based in London,
it’s only when you look closer

                                                                                                                Photos dr
                                                                                                                            his works focus on the                                                            Published in March this
that you realise that these                                                                                                 changing fabric of the city,                                                      year, his book Denim on
œuvres are made up of myriad                                                                                                ranging from incredibly detailed      Giorgio Armani, Jennifer Saunders,   Denim features over 110 images
pieces and shades of denim                                                                                                  street scenes, luxury interiors,      supermodel Giselle Bundchen and      of his work, specifically exploring
– hundreds and thousands of                                                                                                 launderettes, CCTV “images” and       designer Lapo Elkann (responsible    the urban environment and issues
tiny fragments of denim jeans,      On his lightning visit, Ian visited   townspeople also got involved                     more. A series of denim works on for the denim-covered SMEG fridge         of community (or lack of), which
painstakingly cut up and glued      the Carré d’Art Jean Bousquet         by learning to make the denim                     New York includes a life-size New and Ferrari car), while his 2014         is what drives Ian’s creativity.
                                    and the denim display at the          roses that became such an iconic                  York newsstand complete with          portrait of Ayrton Senna was created “I’m depicting contemporary
into place to form incredibly
                                    Musée du Vieux Nîmes, and             symbol of the installation. While                 magazine covers, chocolate bars       with denim from the jeans belonging  life, so what better material to
detailed works of art.              also met with Les Ateliers de         some of the roses were kept by                    and a vending machine, while to Senna’s own family members.                portray it with than the material
Emerging as an exciting             Nîmes’ founder Guillaume Sagot        their creators, others have found                 another series on traditional                                              of our time – denim jeans,”
young British artist over the       (see story on page 6) and other       their way to San Francisco as                     American diners intriguingly          Ian’s images are usually big and     smiles Berry.
last decade, today Ian is           cultural influencers.                  part of Ian’s next horticultural
internationally known for his                                             installation, located in the new SF
                                    A former school in Labastide-         Flower Mart development.
works made solely out of pairs
                                    Rouairoux was the location
of jeans, creating stunning         for Berry’s “Secret Garden”           “Being Artist-in-Residence at
trompe l’œil pieces resembling      installation – a stunning garden      Labastide-Rouairoux was an
indigo-hued paintings and           setting composed entirely of          amazing experience,” said Berry.
photos.                             old jeans, which was inspired         “It’s a wonderful old textile
Le SUN caught up with the           by his 2017 installation in the       town, and – like my hometown of
                                    Children’s Museum of the Arts         Huddersfield - it’s sad to see how
35-year-old artist during a
                                    in New York, influenced by            these heritage industries have
visit to Nîmes as part of his       Manhattan’s community gardens.        gone elsewhere for cheap labour,
recent appointment as Artist-       With a stream running through         leaving communities devastated.
in-Residence in Labastide-          the work, plants, creepers, trees,    However here a disused school
Rouairoux in the Tarn. Berry        roses, cacti – and even a life-       was overtaken by nature and
had long wanted to visit Nîmes      size bunny rabbit and a swing         reclaimed, in a material that used
as the home of denim, and so        - were all exquisitely fashioned      to make the area successful.”
his stay in the former textile      from denim in myriad shades and
                                    textures.                             Ian was also honoured with
town of Labastide-Rouairoux
                                                                          Labastide’s Médaille d’honneur,
(the birthplace of the denim        “Secret Garden” was truly a           presented by Mayor Serge Lafon,
stonewash effect, and just over     community event for Labastide         in grateful thanks for his hard
two hours from Nîmes) was too       – not only did the town call on       work on behalf of the town – a
good an opportunity to miss.        its inhabitants to donate old         huge honour, as he is only the
                                                                                                                            For more information or to view Ian's work, visit www.ianberry.org
                                    jeans for the effort, but many        fifth recipient (and the first
8 Autumn 2018   Le SUN                                                                                                                                                                                                 Autumn 2018 Le SUN 9
LE SUN A taste of autumn - LANGUEDOC & PROVENCE - Languedoc Sun
On the Bookshelf

                   Meet the author: Gayle Smith Padgett
                                     Passion for Provence
                                     22 Keys to La Belle Vie
                                     honeymoon, but enjoying A Year        make sense of it all? Eventually,
                                     in Provence while in Provence         reflection led to insights that
                                     made the special event even           became the 22 Keys to La Belle
                                     more memorable.                       Vie. Some keys, like how to
                                                                           decode France’s food-first policy
                                     And so began our long-distance        and its dependence on Gallic
                                     love affair with La Belle France.     shrugs, are France-centric, but        15 YEARS EXPERIENCE IN FRENCH REAL ESTATE
                                     From our base in Germany, we          others have a more universal
                                     took advantage of vacation time       reach— “Untether your joie
                                     to crisscross France from Alsace      de vivre: Oh, the adventures          Expert en Batîment (Building Surveyor)
Falling for France wasn’t            to île de Groix, Normandy to île      you’ll have, the memories you’ll
part of the Mediterranean            de Porquerolles. Our flirtation        make. Giddyup.” And, “Count on         Expert Immobilier (Property Valuer)
honeymoon agenda. Pale rosé,         with France morphed into              kismet to surprise: When Lady
languid lunches on a sun-                                                         Luck appears, be ready to
dappled terrasse, and a                                                           greet her.” Or, perhaps the    Real estate agency with large foreign network
dash of reckless abandon                                                          trickiest lesson—“Take in
may have been to blame.                 Inspired by A Year in                     the views—from all angles:

That was over 25 years
                                    Provence, our long-distance
                                   love affair with France began
                                                                                  A sense of belonging can
                                                                                  make a house a home and,                04 66 87 15 17
ago. At the time, my                                                              just maybe, lead to La
husband, Ralph, and I had                                                         Belle Vie.                    or send an email to Mikel de Rooij: mikel@hcmail.fr
been living in Heidelberg,
Germany, for over a year. We’d       amour. With retirement, Ralph         For us, shaping a French life is
tied the knot near Washington        and I launched a quest for a          a work in progress. Ralph and I                  We speak:
DC, just a month before heading      permanent nest in Provence.           continue the pursuit of improving
to new jobs across the Atlantic.                                           our French and cracking cultural
When an opportunity for a proper     Lacking French skills and             codes. But they’re happy tasks—
lune de miel arrived, we decided     connections, we plunged full-         the allure endures.
on the south of France. Since        time into French life, first in Aix-
Ralph is an avid birdwatcher,        en-Provence for 18 months, and
visiting the Camargue was high       then in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence,
on his bucket list, and I was        where we’ve lived for six years.
excited about experiencing the
Provençal scenes painted by          As a long-time journaling fan,
some of my favorite artists—         I documented our countless
Cézanne, Matisse and Picasso.        faux pas and lucky encounters.
But there was something else.        Ralph and I marvelled at our
I’d just started Peter Mayle’s A     talent for landing in so many
Year in Provence and planned to      oddball predicaments, and
finish it on site. It was magical     also how serendipity led us
to be in luscious Provence on my     to stellar encounters. How to

Passion for Provence: 22 Keys to La Belle Vie is available from any book
store, the Saint-Rémy Presse, Book-in-Bar in Aix-en-Provence and Amazon
(paperback and Kindle) and Barnes & Noble (Nook).

10 Autumn 2018   Le SUN
LE SUN A taste of autumn - LANGUEDOC & PROVENCE - Languedoc Sun
You can rela !
On the Bookshelf

                                Meet the author: Barbara Farber
                                      Surviving Provence                                                        CA Britline takes care of your
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                                      stars would cry, I knew our          Saxon ways. There are no
                                      life had changed. Complaining
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                                      serious, and I did. The next year    The house is the star of the
                                      we had 400 kilos of olives.          book. It is a perfect example of
                                                                           Andy Warhol’s “15 minutes of
Surviving Provence is a humorous      Rabbits and wild boars destroy       fame”, becoming much better
account of the people (and            our well-manicured grass.            known than its owners. Among
animals) who share our daily life     The mail lady in her yellow          other gigs, it has been a setting
in the south of France. It is a far   car gives cookies to our three       for TV soup commercials,
cry from an ode to lavender and       dogs. Our pharmacist gives           oversize women’s clothes for
sunflowers.                            me a recommendation for my           a Swiss mail order catalogue
                                      wrinkles, in a voice loud enough     and the unveiling of the newest
Although my husband and I             for all his clients to profit from.   Peugeot on the terrace, while
were born in the United                                                          several TV series, almost
States, we have spent                                                            always involving a murder
the greater part of our                                                          or kidnapping, brought film
lives in Europe, mostly                    Living here full time                 crews for weeks on end.
in The Netherlands.                     is a combination of love,
Leaving our working years             frustration and amazement                  This is just a taste of what
and Amsterdam behind                                                             awaits you in Surviving
us, we settled into our                                                          Provence.
huge white elephant of
a house in Provence. The house        I learn some quaint French
had been ours for 20 years, but       expressions from the plumber
only as a destination for summer      (not however, to be used in
vacations. A friend told us, “You     polite society!). A long-haired
live in a fool’s paradise until you   hippie cries because he is cutting
reside here permanently,” - and       down a dead tree. There are
was he right! Living here full        encounters with temperamental
time is a combination of love,        painters, carpenters, masons,
frustration and amazement.            hunters, firemen and spiritual
                                      beekeepers.                                                               (1)Non life insurance provided by Pacifica for property and belongings
When the chicken man at our                                                                                     held in France, life insurance provided by Predica for residents in France
local market scolded me for           Of course food and wine play                                              only. Companies regulated by the insurance code, subsidiaries of
                                                                                                                Credit Agricole Insurances.
not reserving one of his roasted      an important role in the book.                                            The insurance contracts and their options are provided by PACIFICA,
delicacies in advance, and the        The French have very precise                                              the insurance company, subsidiary of Crédit Agricole SA. PACIFICA:
                                                                                                                Company regulated by the «Code des Assurances». Limited company
flower vendor told me if I cut         eating and drinking habits,                                               with a consolidated capital of 252,432,825� untied funds. Head office:
                                                                                                                                                                                             CA Britline is a branch of the Caisse Régionale de Crédit Agricole Mutuel
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                                                                                                                                                                                             25014 - 14050 CAEN CEDEX 4 - Cooperative company with variable capital,
                                                                                                                Paris. The events guaranteed and the conditions figure in the contract.
Available at Book in Bar (Aix-en-Provence) and the bookshops at the                                                                                                                          registered as a credit company - 478 834 930 RCS Caen - Insurance
                                                                                                                                                                                             brokerage company registered under matricule Nr 07 022 868. CA Britline is
Musée Pierre Salinger (Le Thor) and Château La Coste (Le Puy-Sainte-                                            *Local costs apply when phoning within France from a fixed line. Check
                                                                                                                                                                                             a member of the Guaranteed Fund for deposits, the Guarantee of Investors
                                                                                                                with your service provider when calling from abroad. Free access by
Réparade) or on Amazon in paperback and Kindle editions.                                                        internet (excluding fees charged by your service provider)
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                                                                                                                                                                                             L’Autorité de Contrôle Prudentiel et de Résolution: 61 rue Taitbout – 75436
                                                                                                                                                                                             Paris Cedex 09.                               Autumn 2018 Le SUN 13
12 Autumn 2018   Le SUN
LE SUN A taste of autumn - LANGUEDOC & PROVENCE - Languedoc Sun
History                                                                                     by Sian Griffiths Bell
                                                                                                                      In 1949 the first delivered 2CV type A was
                                                                                                                      375 cc, 9 hp, with a 65 km/h top speed,

                                         The 2CV at 70
                                                                                                                      only one tail light and a windscreen wiper
                                                                                                                      which depended on the driving speed.
                                                                                                                      The car was heavily criticised by the
                                                                                                                      motoring press and became the butt of
                                       Seven decades of a motoring icon                                               French comedians. One American motoring
                                                                                                                      journalist quipped ‘‘Does it come with a
                                                                                                                      can opener?’’, while the British Autocar
Occupying an exceptional place in automobile culture and French history since 1948, the                               correspondent wrote that the 2CV ‘‘is the
iconic Citroën 2CV (deux chevaux or deux chevaux-vapeur – literally ‘‘two steam horses’’)                             work of a designer who has kissed the
                                                                                                                      lash of austerity with almost masochistic
celebrates its 70th anniversary this year.
                                                                                                                      fervour’’.
However its story goes back much further. In 1934, Michelin took over the bankrupt Citroën
company, and immediately commissioned a survey to help motorise France’s large rural                                  Despite critics, Citroën was flooded
population, who could not afford cars and still used horses and carts. Citroën used the survey                        with customer orders at the show, and
results to develop a low-priced, rugged ‘‘umbrella on four wheels’’ that would enable four                            even within the first few days, the large
people to transport 50 kg of farm goods to market at 50 km/h, if necessary across muddy,                              quantity of orders proved that the brand
                                                                                                                      - and its visionary designers - were on to
unpaved roads – including driving eggs across a freshly ploughed field without breaking any!
                                                                                                                      something. Within months of its launch,
                                                                                                                      there was a three-year waiting list, which
In 1936, spearheaded by                                                           the others were destroyed, and      soon increased to five years. At the time a
Citroën’s vice-president and                                                      it was believed that only two       second-hand 2CV was more expensive than
chief of engineering and design                                                   prototypes had survived.            a new one because the buyer did not have
Pierre-Jules Boulanger, the TPV                                                                                       to wait. Production was increased from 876
(Toute Petite Voiture – Very                                                      However in 1994, three 1939         units in 1949 to 6,196 units in 1950.
Small Car) was developed in                                                       TPVs were discovered in a barn,
secrecy at Michelin’s facilities                                                  and one of these was the “guest     By 1952, production had reached more
at Clermont-Ferrand and at                                                        of honour” at the recent 2CV        than 21,000 with export markets earning
Citroën in Paris. Boulanger                                                       gathering in Uzès, organised by     foreign currency taking precedence. The
closely monitored all decisions                                                   the 2CV Club de l’Uzège (see        policy of Boulanger – by then company
on the TPV, proposing strictly                                                    left). Due to its age and fragile   president – and which continued after
reduced target weights,                                                           condition, this long-lost car is    his death, was ‘‘Priority is given to those
weighing and redesigning                                                          only displayed once every 15        who have to travel by car because of their
each component to lighten the                                                     years or so, and so it was an       work, and for whom ordinary cars are
TPV, yet without compromising                                                     enormous coup for the Club          too expensive to buy.’’ Cars were sold
function.                                                                         de l’Uzège – and if you missed      preferentially to country vets, doctors,
                                                                                  it this time, you can visit it at   midwives, priests and small farmers, and
By the end of 1937, 20 TPV             printed and preparations made          Citroën’s Conservatoire in Aulnay-      had a great impact on the lives of the
experimental prototypes had been       to present the car, renamed the        sur-Bois.                               low-income segment of the population
built and tested - bare chassis with   Citroën 2CV, at the forthcoming                                                in France.
rudimentary controls, seating and      Paris Motor Show in October 1939.      Meanwhile, with its cost a third of
roof, and the test drivers wearing                                            the price of a regular car, coupled     It quickly becoming a legend - including
leather flying suits, like those used   However on 3 September 1939,           with its modern-looking curved          Roger Moore as 007 driving a yellow 2CV
in open biplanes at the time.          France declared war on Germany         design, the 2CV was an instant          in the 1981 James Bond film For Your
                                       following the invasion of Poland. An   hit when it was finally unveiled at      Eyes Only.
By 1939, after a total of 47           atmosphere of impending disaster       the Paris Motor Show in October
prototypes had been built and          led to the cancellation of the 1939    1948. The crowd was stunned -           With a history of continuing improvements
tested, the TPV was deemed             motor show, and the launch of the      while some laughed at its unique        and innovations through the years, the
ready - featuring aluminium and        2CV was abandoned.                     silhouette, others saw the qualities    2CV had an exceptional 42-year run,
magnesium parts, innovative radial                                            that had been missing from so many      with over 5.1 million vehicles sold when
tyres, hammocks as seats (hung         During the German occupation of        other models: simplicity, lightness,    production ceased in July 1990. Today, the
from the roof by wires), and only      France, Citroën managers decided       agility, comfort and versatility. The   2CV - affectionately called the ‘Deuche’
one headlight, all that was required   to hide the TPV project from the       2CV also offered a wide range of        in French - remains an icon of automotive
by French law at the time.             Nazis, fearing it might be used for    technologies that were novel at the     history, capturing the interest of collectors
                                       military purposes. Several TPVs        time, such as front-wheel drive,        and vintage car collectors from around the
                                                                                                                                                                      2CV gathering in Uzès, organised by the the 2CV Club de l’Uzège.
In mid-1939 a pilot run of 250 cars    were buried at secret locations -      soft-long travel suspension and air-    world, and reaching as much as €100,000
                                                                                                                                                                      Photos: Sian Griffiths Bell
was produced, brochures were           one was disguised as a pickup, all     cooled two-cylinder engines.            each at auction.
14 Autumn 2018   Le SUN                                                                                                                                                                                      Autumn 2018 Le SUN 15
LE SUN A taste of autumn - LANGUEDOC & PROVENCE - Languedoc Sun
In the Know                                                                           by Nicole Hammond
                                                                                                             If I can exchange my licence, how do I do
                                                                                                             this?

Driving Licence or Driver’s License?                                                                         The procedure to exchange European-issued
                                                                                                             licences is different to that of non-EU licences.
Whichever you have, here’s an introduction on how to get a French permis de conduire                         The French government has recently changed the
                                                                                                             system, so now you can only exchange a European
I highlight this tiny difference as an introduction to a much bigger one! Those of us who own                licence by sending the application by post to a
a driving licence (UK/EU), may exchange it for a French licence (permis de conduire), as long                special processing centre in Nantes. Then...
as it is ‘clean.’ For those holding a driver’s license (US/Can), it’s not always as easy. Some
states/provinces operate a licence exchange programme with France. However, those of you                       • Nantes will verify that your licence is valid for
from non-exchange states will only be able to drive in France with those licenses for one year,                exchange, send you a provisional French driving
                                                                                                               licence and ask you to send in your original
and will need to take the French driving test to get a valid permis in France.
                                                                                                               licence.
I’m a Brit writing this, so I’m going with the UK spelling of licence for this article.                                                                              When should I apply?
                                                                                                               • In due course, you will then receive your
                                                                                                               definitive French licence.                             You need to supply proof of at least six months
Australian, New Zealand & South African                French Driving Schools                                                                                        of French residency, so you cannot apply before
Driving Licences                                                                                               • Note: at the time of writing, the wait for the      then. As an EU-licence holder, you are not obliged
                                                       The driving test is in French and consists of a         definitive licence is about one year from the          to exchange your licence as long as you keep your
These licences are exchangeable but only within a      written theory test (le code de la route) and a         date of the application.                              (driving) nose out of trouble, as stipulated here:
year of your OFII-stamped arrival in France.           practical driving test. You can find French driving                                                            www.service-public.fr/particuliers/vosdroits/F1758.
                                                       schools who offer English-language driving courses,     • Warning: you may have trouble renting a car
You can find the list of all countries, including       although mostly in urban areas. There is also           with the provisional licence.                         Note: in France, you start with 12 points and they
states and provinces, with a French driving licence    English-language support material available to buy                                                            are reduced as you commit infractions. You lose
exchange agreement in place on the                     online for the theory portion. Feel free to contact   If you hold a non-European passport and have            your right to drive when you reach zero.
www.diplomatie.gouv.fr website.                        Renestance for driving schools and resources in       a non-European licence, in principle, the
                                                       English.                                              request should be handed-in at your préfecture          However, with Brexit looming, we do recommend
US and Canadian licence-holders                                                                              by appointment. However, each préfecture has            exchanging a UK licence sooner rather than later.
                                                       You need a clean licence to exchange                  different rules, and some allow you to drop off         Non-EU licence holders should apply as soon as
If your state or                                                                                             your paperwork for processing. There may also be a      possible after six months’ residency in France.
province isn’t on                                                              Remember any licence          cost to exchange your licence, but this also varies
the exchangeable                                                               you wish to exchange          by préfecture.                                          You may have heard other foreigners say they’ve
list, and you haven’t                                                          should be clean; that is,                                                             driven for years in France on their old licence.
moved to France                                                                free of any penalties,        If you have an EU passport and a non-EU driving         However, see the two points below for incidences
yet, I know what                                                               endorsements or               licence, you need to provide the same documents         where the repercussions for not having exchanged
you are thinking.                                                              suspensions. To prove         as those required for a non-EU passport-holder,         your licence can lead to problems.
What if I move to                                                              this, you need to submit      but you can post them to the processing centre in
a state or province                                                            a document provided by        Nantes. Here’s a simple table to clarify.               Scary point for EU licence holders! If you
with an exchange                                                               the licence-issuing body in                                                           commit an infraction that incurs a fine whilst
programme, get                                                                 your home country. These                                                              driving in France, you are legally obliged to
a licence from                                                                 documents must be under                             Driving          Application      exchange your licence within the next 12 months.
there, then move to                                                            three months old at the           Passport                                            If you do not, and you try make the exchange
                                                                                                                                   Licence           method
France? Genius! Only                                                           time of exchange request.                                                             more than a year after your infraction, you will be
                                                                                                                    EU                EU                Post
there’s a snag. You                                                                                                                                                  denied a licence and must take the driving test in
must prove you’ve lived in that state/province for     UK case study: You have an old-style UK paper                EU              Non-EU              Post         France (yes, in French!).
at least six months before arriving in France.         licence which has expired points still showing
                                                       on it. To prove that your licence is now free of           Non-EU              EU                Post         Warning! If you commit an infraction or have an
But there’s an additional warning for Canadian         endorsements, you should ask the DVLA to send                                               Appointment       accident, and your driving licence is not valid in
                                                                                                                  Non-EU            Non-EU
licence-holders. Canadians have a year to              you a Certificate of Entitlement (request by phone,                                          at préfecture     France, your car insurance will not cover anything.
exchange their licence if their issuing province has   post or online).
an exchange programme with France. If the issuing                                                            Exception for Paris residents who wish to               If you need a hand applying for your French driving
state is not in the exchange list, you have only       US case study: You have had a Maryland licence        exchange any type of foreign licence - this should      licence, whether that be through exchange or
THREE MONTHS to register with a French driving         since you were 16 and have now decided to retire      be done by post.                                        taking a French test, Renestance can guide you
school and subsequently take the French two-part       in the Mediterranean sun. Contact the Motor                                                                   through the process. Bonne route!
driving test.                                          Vehicle Administration in Maryland and order an       Old French paper licences are slowly being
                                                       original of your Certified Driving Record online.      replaced with modern, laminated cards.                                 www.renestance.com
                                                                                                                                                                       +33 (0)4 11 93 25 99 - contact@renestance.com
16 Autumn 2018   Le SUN                                                                                                                                                                              Autumn 2018 Le SUN 17
LE SUN A taste of autumn - LANGUEDOC & PROVENCE - Languedoc Sun
Artisan                                                                                   by Sian Griffiths Bell

                                                                 Monumental
                                                                 inspirations

                                                                                                                     Photos © B. Trouillet
                                                                 Like most other French towns, Nîmes
                                                                 has a number of jewellery shops and
                                                                 jewellers skilled in creating bespoke

                                                                                                                                                                    VISIT SAINT-GILLES
                                                                 pieces for clients. However in the
                                                                 pedestrianised mediaeval Écusson
                                                                 district at 31 rue de la Madeleine lies a
                                                                 bijouterie with a difference.                                                                      CAMARGUE & OCCITANIE
                                                                                                                                                                      tourisme.saint-gilles.fr 0033 (0)4 66 87 33 75

In the same spot for almost 50          reproduction Roman coins is very    However the most striking and           plain and simple to exquisitely       Following the success of their        Japanese cord. The bracelets and
years, the Maison Lachize Artisan       popular – customers provide their   innovative designs honour the           decorated with diamonds and           Roman-inspired designs, a year or     pendants flew off the shelves, and
Joaillier was started by Mr & Mrs       own heirloom coins, while the       town’s two most famous monuments        other precious stones.                so ago the Lachize brothers were      so new creations are already on the
Lachize senior, and is now run by       brothers also purchase Roman-era    – the Arènes amphitheatre and the                                             approached by the Musée de la         drawing board for 2019.
their two sons – creative designer      coins dating from 300-200 BC from   Maison Carrée.                          The rings are a winner with both      Romanité to create a collection of
Lionel and artisan jeweller Stéphane,   collectors and antique shops.                                               nîmois and visitors alike, but are    items for its new gift boutique.      “Our jewellery is made to be worn,
with Stéphane’s own son currently                                           Exquisitely designed as a               particularly prized as glittering                                           not only kept for special occasions,”
undertaking an apprenticeship                                                   contemporary tribute to the         keepsakes for nîmois or those who     They adapted some of their coin       says Lionel. “Less bling, more
in order to carry on the family                                                 ancient landmarks, the Arènes       have lived in the city in the past,   designs in 925 silver and added an    design is our credo – and a lasting
business. With a workshop located                                               ring was conceived a decade or      with one customer even driving        adjustable bracelet in an exclusive   memento of our city’s spectacular
above the shop and reached via              The Arènes ring was                 so ago by Lionel, while a more      800 km round-trip from northern       and extremely hard-wearing            Roman heritage.”
an ornamental spiral staircase,          conceived a decade or so               recent creation is his design for   France to buy one for his Nîmes-
around half the brothers’ business         ago by Lionel Lachize                rings celebrating the columns       born wife’s birthday.                                                           www.lachize-joaillier.com
comprises bespoke jewellery                                                     of the Maison Carrée. While
creations, along with ready-to-                                                 the columns themselves are
wear pieces on sale downstairs                                                  Corinthian-style with elaborate
in the shop itself.                     These are then either directly      scrolling acanthus-leaf capitals, the
                                        incorporated into pieces of         fluted design of the rings stop at
Nevertheless, in addition to the        jewellery by Stéphane, or scaled    the base of the capital in a sleek,
day-to-day business, the Nîmes-born     down and redesigned by Lionel to    chic design.
Lachize brothers have developed a       create customised pieces. There
line of unique hand-made jewellery,     are even genuine As de Nîmes        Each piece takes several weeks
drawing on the town’s rich Roman        coins from 28BC featuring the       to make by hand, fashioned by
heritage and celebrating its            crocodile and the palm frond -      Stéphane in metals ranging from
monuments and history.                  today the town’s coat of arms       silver and gold to platinum,
                                        – which have been stunningly        with the final design entirely
A range of bespoke rings and            reproduced in a sterling silver     according to the customer’s taste
pendants featuring real or              brooch or pin.                      and budget – from completely
18 Autumn 2018   Le SUN                                                                                                                                                                                       Autumn 2018 Le SUN 19
History                                                                                      by Janice Lert    Aniane Abbey, like many others at the time, was        after World War II, when children’s courts were
                                                                                                               revived by the Maurists, a community of reformed       created and new public institutions took charge
                                                                                                               monks who undertook to restore the buildings. The      of young delinquents. However while the name of

The Abbey in Aniane and the Devil’s Bridge                                                                     work stretched out over the next 150 years right
                                                                                                               up until the French Revolution. Thus a new church
                                                                                                                                                                      the reform school changed, the youngsters went
                                                                                                                                                                      on living there, but now they could work toward
                                                                                                               was built with large new cloisters on the south        professional diplomas which would help them find
                                                                                                               side including living quarters, a chapter room, an     jobs when they were released.
The picturesque town of Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert is an important vacation destination for                       infirmary, a library, etc, and it is these buildings
visitors interested in culture, but few bother to stop in the town of Aniane, on the other side                which remain visible today. But during the French      The Institution was finally closed in 1998, and
of the Hérault river. However Saint-Guilhem would never have existed if it weren’t for Aniane,                 Revolution the buildings, like all other religious     the buildings were bought by the community
as it was here that a Languedoc nobleman named Wittiza, the son of the Count of Maguelone,                     buildings in France, were confiscated and sold. The     of towns in 2010. They had been listed as a
settled in 782. His father was a Visigoth, but he was a Christian and had decided to create                    Aniane Abbey was bought by the Farel family, who       National Monument in 2004 (the Devil’s Bridge
                                                                                                               transformed the site into                                                       was also listed in 1998 as
an abbey here, of which he would become the abbot. He changed his name to Benedict, in
                                                                                                               a textile factory, which                                                        part of the Santiago de
honour of Benedict of Nursia (480-550) who had written the Rule of Benedict for monks living                   operated until 1843 with                                                        Compostela route), but
in communities like the one that our Benedict planned to develop.
                                                                                                                                                   The Pont du Diable is a UNESCO
                                                                                                               up to 150 employees.                                                            they were run-down and
                                                                                                                                                 World Heritage Site, and for 1,000            dilapidated, and would
                                                                                                               The buildings were then              years has resisted the Hérault             take a fortune and many
Benedict started building, and while there is very      devil by sending a dog across first. The devil was      used as a prison, which                  river's torrential floods               decades to restore.
little left of these original monastery buildings,      so mad that he tried unsuccessfully to destroy the     opened in 1845. The new
recent excavations in the cloister courtyard have       bridge. He finally gave up and dived into the water     access with the honour                                                          Nevertheless the villagers
revealed remains of the original church, dedicated      underneath. The place where he landed is called        courtyard and the wings                                                         bravely accepted to
to the Holy Saviour, along with a mediaeval             the “black hole” today. If you want him to stay        framing it were added, as well as a new storey to      undertake the task, and have started to use the
building called a gimel (entrance tower) in the         there, throw a pebble into the water as you go by!     accommodate more cells. In 1885, the site became       site for summer shows and guided visits, hoping
north-east corner, and medieval tombs. The abbey                                                               a reform school for young delinquents, who were        thus to raise money for the restoration work.
soon became a major centre for spreading the            As Gellone prospered, the mother Abbey in Aniane       given jobs in a series of workshops built at the       The inhabitants of Aniane, who have had to live
Benedictine monastic rule throughout Aquitania,         declined, and during the Religious Wars in 1562, the   time to create the tools, furniture and other items    with this eyesore for so long, will finally be able
and Charlemagne heard about Benedict’s work.            buildings were sacked and the church destroyed.        needed for themselves and for other reform schools     to take pride in this long-neglected part of their
His son, Louis the Pious, called Benedict to            But the abbey initially recovered - in 1633 the        throughout the country. This continued until           heritage.
Aachen (Aix-la-Chapelle) to be his confessor and
to supervise the diffusion of the Benedictine rule
throughout Europe.

As a child, Benedict had often played with another
person who was to become important in the
realm: his name was Guilhem or Guillaume or

                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Photo: The Devil’s Bridge, upstream the bridge of the road to Aniane
William, Count of Toulouse, Duke of Aquitania and
Charlemagne’s first cousin. Like Charlemagne, he
was a fearless knight, but he decided to give up
fighting and devote his life to religion, retiring to
the Benedictine Abbey of Gellone which he founded
himself in 804, with the help of his childhood friend
Benedict.

This monastery was located in the town today
called Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert, just across the
Hérault river from Aniane. To connect the two
abbeys, it was decided to build a bridge across the
Hérault. The bridge dates back to 1030, a period
when many pilgrims were travelling along the path
to Santiago de Compostela in Spain, so the bridge
got a lot of use. It received the nickname of the
Pont du Diable (Devil’s Bridge) because a legend
says that during the construction, every night a
devil would come out and destroy what had been
built during the day. Finally a pact was made with
the devil: if he helped to build the bridge, the first
soul to cross the bridge would be his. So a nice
solid bridge was built, but the monks fooled the
20 Autumn 2018   Le SUN                                                                                                                                                                             Autumn 2018 Le SUN 21
Lifestyle                                                                                       by Rachel Pollard     Attending a creche is affordable
                                                                                                                      as the government assists parents
                                                                                                                                                             my experience with Les Petites
                                                                                                                                                             Canailles makes me think that
                                                                                                                                                                                                       one tells you that motherhood is
                                                                                                                                                                                                       quite a lonely job, and that whilst
                                                                                                                      depending on their means, whereas      France has the better options.            you are used to KPIs and working in

Mother without a hood                                                                                                 Hong Kongers have to resort to
                                                                                                                      helpers, grandparents, or pricey
                                                                                                                      playgroups.
                                                                                                                                                             The food is all made in house, fresh
                                                                                                                                                             everyday… I look at the board when
                                                                                                                                                                                                       a team, no one slaps you on the back
                                                                                                                                                                                                       or gives you a mummy of the week
                                                                                                                                                                                                       prize for that well-placed nappy,
It’s a relatively daunting experience becoming a mother, so much responsibility and so many                                                                  I take my child there and wish I          fully dressed child with matching
opportunities to mess up, but when you add moving countries and cultures into the mix, things                         There is a waiting list for most       was staying for lunch! Not such           socks, or successful dinner.
get that bit more interesting. In the last two years I have been pregnant twice and lived in                          creches, but I had the extraordinary   a great surprise though that the
                                                                                                                      good fortune of getting my first-       French demand fine quality food            The UK is great for creating
three different countries - Hong Kong (China), England and France, all offering their fair share                      born into a creche for 1½ days                                                       support groups, even in its
of ups and downs.                                                                                                     a week. The fantastic Directrice                                                     small towns: Hong Kong as a
                                                                                                                      of Les Petites Canailles (the                                                        big city has its fair share, but
                                                                                                                      aptly named Little Rascals)            I’ve launched the Facebook                    the best one I’ve come across in
                                                                                                                      and her team have made my               group Mothers in Avignon,                    our region in France is Mamans
                                                                                                                      immersion into the French                                                            à Montpellier/Mothers in
                                                                                                                      culture and motherhood that
                                                                                                                                                               Nîmes, Uzès and environs                    Montpellier. Having found that
                                                                                                                      much easier.                                                                         there are not enough activities
                                                                                                                                                                                                           for mothers who choose to stay
                                                                                                                      I would also say that this             for their “little ‘uns” – I’ll refrain    home, or are working part time,
                                                                                                                      experience has given my boy            from commenting on Irish and              I’ve launched the Facebook group
                                                                                                                      the opportunity to thrive as a         British cuisine in comparison to the      Mothers in Avignon, Nîmes, Uzès
                                                                                                                      bilingual toddler. He listens to       creche’s Michelin-star purée!             and environs (MiANU) to bring
                                                                                                                      and speaks French to his carers                                                  expatriate mothers together. If
                                                                                                                      whilst fine tuning his social,         Mothers, local and foreign, need          mothers are reading this and want
                                                                                                                      craft-making, toy-playing, and         support groups to laugh about all         to share quality time, resources or
                                                                                                                      singing skills. I’ve seen creches      kinds of daily incidents and share        trade stories with other mothers,
                                                                                                                      in the UK, HK and France, and          their cross-cultural experiences. No      feel free to sign up.

                                                                                                                                                  LE
Giving birth in France seems to be a   They were very shocked by the            (a matter of a few hundred                                                                                      15 & 16 décembre 2018
much more affordable and routine       UK procedures, as post-partum            euros with insurance) versus the                                                                                 10h-17h � 4 € � gratuit -12 ans
affair (well, as standardised as a     monitoring is stricter in France:        proportionately much larger cost
birth can be) than in Hong Kong        midwives spend the days after birth      of private care in the UK and Hong
or the UK. In France, hospitals        teaching the new mother how to           Kong. The latter ranges from €1,800                                                                                   “la vraie magie
insist on you staying in three days    best look after her baby. Although       to €10,000 - although it must be
after the birth for a natural                                                      said that Hong Kong’s very                                                                                             de Noël“
birth and one week for a                                                           good, but jam-packed, public
caesarean. My experience in            Princess Kate walked out of                 hospitals will charge only €10                                                                                    120 exposants
the UK was that even after an                                                      for the experience - and you                                                                             artisans, créateurs, producteurs
emergency caesarean, I could
                                       hospital in the UK just hours               can even put the fee on your
                                             after giving birth                                                                                                                                  Restaurations sur place
leave after one night’s rest and                                                   Octopus card, the equivalent

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        �������������������������������������������������������
monitoring.                                                                        of a underground pass or Navigo
                                                                                   card!                                                                                                      CHÂTEAU ABBAYE DE CASSAN
The morning programmes here for        I’m not a fan of hospitals, this extra                                                                                                                34320 ROUJAN � (15 km Pézenas)
mothers, including my personal         care and attention seems like a          More than in the UK, French
                                                                                                                                                                                              Renseignements : 04 67 245 245
favourite La Maison des Maternelles,   jolly good idea.                         mothers tend to go back to work                                                                                 www.chateau-cassan.com
were talking about how Princess                                                 after maternity leave. I’m sure
Kate walked out of hospital in the     Private care at a polyclinic is also     it has something to do with the
UK just hours after giving birth.      much more affordable in France           fantastic childcare options here.
22 Autumn 2018   Le SUN                                                                                                                                                                                             Autumn 2018 LE SUN 23
Liquid Assets                                                                                   by Matt Saunders
                                                                                                                       (try sirop de pêche for a great         to oysters) or one of our many super    bold reds, a dark rich Malbec (also
                                                                                                                       Bellini). The Ancestrale uses a         Sauvignons, packed with notes of        known as “Cot”) from its traditional

                          Drinking in a winter wine-derland!!                                                          single fermentation process with
                                                                                                                       100% Mauzac, creating a 6% low-
                                                                                                                                                               citrus fruits.                          home in Cahors, or maybe a strong,
                                                                                                                                                                                                       oakey Madiran that uses Tannat
                                                                                                                       alcohol fruity wine with elegant        If roast meats, stews or game are       and Cabernet Franc to produce the
                                                                                                                       pear and apple notes - perfect with     more your seasonal thing, then a        perfect accompaniment to wintery
                                                                                                                       a chocolate dessert! All of these       plethora of delights are at your        duck-based dishes. These wines all
                                                                                                                       festive fizzes use the méthode           disposal.                               benefit from a bit of caraffing, or at
                                                                                                                       traditionelle of fermentation (as                                               least a few hours of being open.
                                                                                                                       in Champagne), unlike Prosecco
                                                                                                                       (the Sodastream of the wine              Traditionally in France, the               On a lighter note… dessert!
                                                                                                                       world) which has gas injected                                                       During the cold months, I
                                                                                                                                                                 emphasis for les fêtes is a
                                                                                                                       into it!                                                                            often find myself with a bottle
                                                                                                                                                                gourmet experience for all                 of mœlleux or Banyuls. Often
                                                                                                                       As we take our places at the                                                        seen as old-fashioned, dessert
                                                                                                                       festive table in France, the                                                        wines never get the attention
                                                                                                                       sheer extravagance involved                                                         they deserve. Try a Muscat
                                                                                                                       during les fêtes becomes apparent.      The winter fare in this neck of the     from Saint-Jean-de-Minervois, or
                                                                                                                       Traditionally in France, the            woods is not for the faint-hearted      discover a sweet red from Banyuls
                                                                                                                       emphasis is based on a gourmet          - many dishes are high in fat (giving   in the Roussillon region – or if you
                                                                                                                       experience for all. Seafood plays a     flavour), and strong meats require       really fancy going local, look for a
                                                                                                                       huge part in the winter festivities,    equally strong reds. There are so       Cartagène, a thoroughly wonderful
                                                                                                                       with oysters and lobsters in            many reds to choose from that it        drop. Above all, keep warm and
                                                                                                                       abundance. Go for crisp, acidic         can be a minefield, so try to go         festive this winter, and stick to the
                                                                                                                       citrussy whites like a Picpoul de       for good strong appellations like       old adage “everything in moderation
                                                                                                                       Pinet (the only real accompaniment      Corbières, with its intense tannic      - including moderation!”

                                                                                                                       For more info onTaste du Languedoc, visit www.tastedulanguedocwinetours.com, or find us on Facebook at Inspiré Azille.

                                                                                                                                                                    

                                                                                                                                                              Maris
                                                                                                                                   
We’ve said goodbye to the sound of the cicada and chilled rosés (or chilled reds for the
fashionistas), and our thoughts now turn to that glass of comforting red. Yes, les vendanges                                 
are well under way, and the moment towards which all vignerons have been working hard                                               
all year whilst praying to nature to ensure the best results possible - either qualitative or
quantitative, depending on which side of the fence you sit - is finally here.

Here in the beautiful Minervois,       Languedoc, we are fortunate           Let’s look at three different sparkling
our Sundays will be taken up           to have experienced divine            Limoux wines - Blanquette, Crémant
hunting for the season’s last cep      intervention when the abbot Dom       and Ancestrale. Blanquette is made
mushrooms, swiftly followed by         Pérignon (yes, that’s right - the     with Mauzac (a relatively unknown
chestnuts that are begging to be       same one) miraculously discovered     grape, unless you live in Limoux) as
roasted - tasty but unacceptably       sparkling wine whilst residing at     its dominant grape (90%) and also
dry, unless washed down with           the abbey of Saint-Hilaire near       Chenin and Chardonnay.
something earthy and red! All this     Limoux, creating something very
seasonal foraging is to stock our      near to what we now know as the       Crémant has the Chardonnay as
larder for the oncoming winter, and    extremely quaffable Blanquette        its dominant grape (40-70%), with
the inevitable feasting and drinking   de Limoux. For me, Limoux boasts      Mauzac, Chenin and Pinot Noir
during the festive season.             sparkling wines that can substitute   making up the blend that more

Let’s go on a virtual festive feast!
                                       for many Champagnes, yet are
                                       great value for money, retailing
                                                                             closely resembles Champagne
                                                                             than the others. These wines are
                                                                                                                                             
For me, the apéritif is paramount      at a fraction of the price (between   great for the apéritif, and make                     
in ensuring the evening gets off       €5 and €15).                          super bases for cocktails with
to a flying start. Here in the                                               the addition of other ingredients                              
24 Autumn 2018   Le SUN                                                                                                                                                                                               Autumn 2018 Le SUN 25
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