NEW ZEALAND SEA KAYAKER - No. 200 April - May 2019 - Paul Caffyn
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NEW ZEALAND
SEA KAYAKER
April - May 2019
No. 200
ISSN 2537-913
New Zealand Sea Kayaker
When I sought feedback on what to
INDEX include in No. 200, John Gumbley
suggested sticking with NZ only con-
EDITORIAL p. 3 THE BEST FROM 28 YEARS of tent and to include his story on a fold-
KASK Newsletters and Magazines boat rescue during WWII in Crete, as
LETTER TO THE EDITOR this was the article for which he re-
Paddle Floats by Nick Wood p.4 Stewart Island, Circumnavigation, ceived the most feedback.
Circumspection and Circumcision
HISTORY by John Kirk-Anderson p.13 What I have found staggering when
The Origin of KASK delving back through old issues of
by Paul Caffyn p. 5 The Voyage of the Blue Fox KASK newsletters and magazines
by Conrad Edwards p.17 is the diversity of subject material
Tribute to Graham Egarr and quality of the writing. Although
by Paul Caffyn p. 6 Inaugural Sea Kayaker’s Pilgrimage I update the subject index after each
Marlborough Sounds issue is printed, it was only when I
KASK by Paul Caffyn p.22 printed out all xix (19) pages that I
2019 Annual KASK Trophy Awards realized what an asset this magazine
by Paul C & Shaun M p. 7 We Find Treasure ‘on the High Seas’ really is for paddlers.
by Barbara Leslie p.23
President’s Report May 2009 It is a history of New Zealand sea
by Shaun Maclaren p. 8 WWII Folboat Rescue at Crete kayaking from the days of George
by John Gumbley p.24 Park building his Rob Roy style kay-
New Magazine Editor aks at Hokitika in the late1880s, to
by Jacquie James p. 8 HUMOUR the late 70s when sleek Greenland
Editor’s choice; the best of 20+ years style fibreglass sea kayaks first ar-
NEW ZEALAND REPORTS of terrible jokes p.33 rived, to the formation of clubs and
Chalky & Preservation Inlets, networks, to the annual KASK fo-
Fiordland EDITORIAL rums and the inspirational overseas
by John Gumbley p. 9 Back in the dim, dark ages of the paddlers who have journeyed here to
early 90s, the Sea Canoeist Newslet- challenge their skills and experience
TECHNICAL ter was laid out on my computer in around our three islands.
Deb’s Tips (Deb Volturno) Pagemaker software, then printed on
by Dennis Hynes p.12 a home or office printer, folded into So much knowledge and learning
three, and labels and addresses were has been included in the stories, from
OVERSEAS REPORTS added. Mid-July 1999, Max Grant book reviews to the uniquely fla-
West Island Bits May 2019 moved our newsletter printing to voured ‘Bugger!’ File stories. I think
- paddle floats & rescues Massey University but I still had to the concept evolved after a paddler
- wetsuit booties drying rings add stamps and address labels to the titled a series of learning episodes as,
- Western Australia visit folded newsletters, and it was still ‘Mr Cock Up, Pays a Visit!’ Despite
by Dave Winkworth p.25 only photocopy print quality. the fact that ‘Bugger!’ moments are
often very embarrassing, we can all
BOOK NOTES In early 2007, David Blake leaned on benefit from the ‘lessons learned’.
The Sun is a Campass me to trial printing with Petone-based
by Caroline van Hemert p.31 Format Print. Not only did Mark Allen The paddling bush telegraph is rath-
and his team print the magazine, but er efficient in notifying (dobbing-in)
BOOK REVIEWs they also did the fold into three and potential stories for the ‘Bugger!’
No Barriers - A Blind Man’s Journey added the stamp/address labels. File category. I have been threatened
toPaddle the Grand Canyon with legal action if I included a PLB
by Erik Weihenmayer Over the years we moved from just a triggering event on 90 Mile Beach,
Review: Jan Egarr p.31 single page with colour to full colour but this has been an exception to
throughout. It has been such a pleasure paddlers providing their ‘Bugger!’
Dying Out Here is Not an Option over the past 12 years working with stories.
Paddle Quest 1500 (Nth America) Mark and his print production team.
by John Connelly It has been quite a trial to pick out
Review: Tamsin Venn p.32 No: 200 the best of the terrible jokes that first
To make this issue really special, I started appearing back in newslet-
have delved back into the past issues ter No. 77 way back in 1998. The
Editing & Layout: Paul Caffyn to reproduce what I consider superb humour page does not appeal to all
Proofing: Sandy Ferguson, examples of descriptive narrative writ- KASK members, but many paddlers
Karen Grant ing. ignore my editorial at the front of the
magazine and go straight to the jokes.
3
No. 200 April - May 2019
Past Issues of NZ Sea Kayaker print increase of $831.20. So KASK LETTER to the EDITOR
Reticent to take past issues to the will receive the normal 24 page mag.
Greymouth recycling centre, I have invoice and the retired ‘gentleman From: Nick Woods
been seeking homes/repositories for kayaker’ will sleep poorly at night
the ‘left overs’. The PDF magazine due the gaping hole under his mat- Hi Paul,
copy goes to overseas KASK mem- tress. Just read Adrian Clayton’s excellent
bers and also as a contra exchange article on uses for the paddle float
with overseas paddling magazines. Moving On (NZSK No.199 p.13) and thought I’d
Out of the blue, I received a request Both Sandy Ferguson and I have add a couple of points gained from 20
from Australian Army Adventure stepped down from the 2019 KASK years of guiding.
School instructor Smick Sheehan for committee. We have been on the
three sets of past issues to add to li- committee since 1992 when the as- The paddle float can be used in as-
braries for wounded, injured and ill sociation was first incorporated, in sisted rescues where the rescuee is
veterans. various roles, president, secretary, unable to assist in the re-entry. The
treasurer. A sponsorship deal from rescuer comes alongside as normal
Smick works as a volunteer for Tim Muhundan was accepted by a and sets up his paddle float on the
‘Mates4Mates’ in running sea kay- majority of the 2018 committee, but outside of the empty kayak across
aking trips as one of their adventure as a result our old KASK website has the rear deck as usual. He/she can
rehab activities. I put together three vanished - all the PDFs of previous then use both hands to sledge the in-
parcels, heavy enough bump up the KASK magazines have gone, not to capacitated paddler up onto the rear
shares of NZ Post, while Smick and mention dropping internet payment deck then guide feet into the cockpit
I split that $109 cost between us. I’m for KASK membership renewals. It etc. and complete the rescue. It helps
so pleased to find a deserving home is time for Sandy and I to step down prevent further capsize and gives
for the old magazines at their family from the committee and see if Tim’s time to adjust decks, paddles etc.
recovery centre libraries in Brisbane, sponsorship deal will boost member-
Townsville and Hobart. ship numbers. The other point that came to mind
was set up and stowage of the float.
If you can help with a deserving Jacquie James has offered to take on In my view it should be tethered
home for magazines here, or have the magazine editor role from No. to a strong point on the seatback
recently joined and would like past 202 (Sept 2019). KASK president with two metres of lanyard which
issues, email me please. Shaun stated that the next magazine can be rolled around the float and
(201) would be a tribute to the retir- stowed behind the seat. For the small
Celebrating NZSK No. 200 ing editor. However as I have all the amount of use it gets it avoids excess
I broached the subject with the stories and photos, I offered to as- exposure to UV and prevents dam-
2018 KASK committee of boost- semble this magazine with an edito- age when doing the more usual T
ing the page numbers of this special rial from Shaun I will do my best to rescue etc.
one to 36 instead of the normal 24. give you an unbiased version of ‘The
Requested to seek a quote, as both Life and Times of Kayak Dundee’. While on the subject it should be
postage and the cost of printing noted that a medium sized dry bag
would increase, I emailed a quote Sandy Ferguson and I are working can be opened and shut trapping
from Format to the committee with on adding the information that has enough air to use as a paddle float in
a request to respond to myself and been lost from the new KASK web- an emergency with the addition of a
president Shaun. Sadly I received site, including old newsletters and short lanyard to stop it riding up the
one response from Shaun advising book reviews, via a ‘tickle up’ of my paddle shaft.
that the 2018 committee had advised own site: paulcaffyn.co.nz
that KASK could not afford the in- Don’t seem to have any photos of
creased cost. Finally, my thanks to all you won- this subject matter but it’s all fairly
derful paddlers who have provided straightforward providing the float
Well, I mulled over this response stories, photos, reviews and terrible leash is long enough to span the emp-
for a bit. I felt that the loyal KASK jokes over the last 28 years. Special ty boat, and the rear deck of said boat
members and photographers/writers thanks to Crocodile Winky for his has some form of fore and aft straps
who I have leaned on for so many many years of ‘West Island Bits’, or deck lines to secure the paddle
years deserved something special, Karen Grant for her efficient time blade under. This should be a stand-
even just a boost of 12 pages to the as KASK administrator and Sandy ard arrangement on all kayaks and
magazine. Ferguson for his proof reading skills. doubles as a tie down for dry bags etc.
Bearing in mind that one should ‘get Paul Caffyn Cheers for a well-earned retirement,
better rather than bitter’ over an is- kayakpc@xtra.co.nz
sue, I decided to stick with 36 pages Nick Woods
and approached a retired West Coast Nick is happy to answer any queries:
expedition kayaker to fund the post/ njcablebay@gmail.com
4
New Zealand Sea Kayaker
The Origin of KASK
Water had a bit to do with it. Well tion sea kayakers of the 70s often
steam and hot water to be honest. If imbibed with a pre-prandial evening
you can picture two bearded blokes tipple of medicinal alcohol, I sug-
in a Mapua bathroom, one leaning gested KASK. Just like the big St
back with hot water up to his neck, Bernard dogs with the small cask of
in an old-fashioned cast-iron bath, brandy under their deck, I deemed it
one of those with the big claw feet, more appropriate to use the Kiwi As-
and the other bloke sitting on a low sociation of Sea Kayakers.
stool. It was late summer 1991 and
the now annual, informal gathering During the 70s and 80s, Graham was
of Kiwi sea kayakers had just fin- the leading figure for recreational ca-
ished at the clothing optional Mapua noe and kayak paddling, water safety
Leisure Park. Graham Egarr was a and river conservation in New Zea-
tad annoyed with a North Island up- land. Although initially interested in
start who had stated his intention at sailing as a nipper, at the University
the forum to form a New Zealand sea of Canterbury he took up white-wa-
kayaking organization and that he ter paddling and met his future wife
would be setting rules and tests for Jan. completed and published in 1978 by
certificates of competency. the New Zealand Canoeing Associa-
The potential damming of a North tion (NZCA).
You may wonder why two bearded Island river in the mid-70s led to an
sea kayaking blokes were in the urgent need to rate New Zealand’s As well as editing the NZCA Canoe-
same steamy, bathroom at the one 100 most important rivers. With a ing magazine from 1976 to 1986,
time? Sadly to report, Graham was grant from the Lands and Survey Graham had three books published
trying to ease the chronic pain of Department, Graham and Jan began on paddling and wrote numerous
an in-operable, cancerous growth a nation-wide river survey in mid well-research articles for boating
around his spine. Graham suggested 1977, starting at the top of the North magazines. In 1979 Graham com-
officially forming an outfit called Island. Aided by the support of local menced working for Water Safety
ASKNZ, or association of sea kay- kayak and jet-boating clubs, a total NZ as an education officer and after
akers NZ. However as solo expedi- of nine regional river guides were 10 years was the organization’s Di-
rector of Safety and Research. By
1987 Graham had left the NZCA and
commenced publishing two inde-
pendent newsletters for recreational
paddlers, The Open Canoe Newslet-
ter and The Sea Canoeist Newsletter.
Left: Graham and Jan Egarr
after receiving the 1981-82 NZCA
‘Canoeist of the Year’ award.
5
No. 200 April - May 2019
He organized the very first national Graham Egarr – paddlers scattered throughout the
gathering of sea kayakers at the Canoeist Extraordinaire length and breadth of NZ. All we
clothing optional Mapua leisure park paid Graham for this service was six
in 1989. ‘It is only since Graham’s send off 40¢ stamps a year – thus his aim was
at Mapua that myself and I’m sure not monetary gain but simply be-
Graham’s last The Sea Canoeist many others have begun to fully cause he enjoyed collating and dis-
Newsletter (No. 34) was only two comprehend the outstanding contri- seminating information. (Very much
pages – it included an index for ma- bution he made to canoeing and wa- still in the pre-cybermail era!)
terial in his previous 33 newsletters, ter safety in New Zealand.
plus a very brief note to say publica- My first solo circumnavigation
tion of the newsletter was to cease. In 1977, after reading an issue of the around NZ attracted a consider-
He wrote: NZCA Bulletin, I realized that there able amount of criticism from the
‘This publication began four years was someone else in NZ who shared armchair silvertail paddlers – never
ago because a number of sea kayak my avid interest in sea kayaking. I less than three there should ever be!
paddlers felt that there was a need had to admire the Bulletin editor for Which was the mantra back in the
for a regular newsletter to keep in filling its pages with informative 70s. In those early years of my pad-
touch with who was doing what, overseas expedition sea kayaking ac- dling career, I had only one staunch
and where. counts and techniques, when strictly ally who was prepared to respond in
speaking the Bulletin was for white- print to the criticism and that was
I have really enjoyed editing and water paddlers and the number of sea Graham.
producing this newsletter and I kayakers could be counted on one
would have been prepared to have hand. It didn’t take me long to find Graham was the outstanding pro-
continued it indefinitely. However, out who the editor was. moter of canoeing in NZ. No one has
a very active life in the outdoors made such a sustained, valued and
has left me with melanoma can- (Back in those early fledging days of lasting contribution to NZ canoeing.
cer which has not been able to fibreglass sea kayaks in NZ, if you
be checked. At the present time saw another car with a sea kayak on After Graham wrote a review of my
I cannot guarantee being able to its roof-racks, you flashed your head- first book (Obscured by Waves) in
complete another full year of news- lights and pulled over for a yarn!) 1980, I felt he did not have much in
letters and as almost all subscrip- the way of a sense of humour. He
tions ran out with issue 32 or 34, From modest beginnings, Graham wrote:
it seems best to end the newsletter turned the Bulletin into an upmarket The humour is rather offbeat. The
now. The subscriber mailing list magazine with colour photo covers, puns get more than a little tiresome
will be retained in the hope that switched-on editorials and a great and fail to convey anything except
the newsletter may be able to be variety of informative and educa- that puns are a part of the tradition
restarted by another editor (any tional articles covering all aspects of of canoeists, whereas they are more
takers?). canoeing and kayaking. Today, those the property of mountaineers and
All the best for future paddle trips.’ bulletins are the only lasting source that clique.
of what New Zealand paddlers were
In August 1991, when I returned doing both at home and overseas in I never quite forgave Graham for
from the finish of my paddle around the 70s and 80s. that comment until recently. When I
Alaska, I drove to Mapua to see Gra- arrived back from Alaska, I was grat-
ham. The poor bugger was physi- For paddlers, Graham’s Open Ca- ified but puzzled to read an unsigned
cally wasted down to a waif of his noe, Sea Canoeist and Paddlers letter which appeared in the most
former self, but his mind was as News Alert filled a vacuum after he recent of his Sea Canoeist News-
still sharp as a tack. Even before his retired gracefully from the NZCA af- letter. It discussed a minimalist ap-
last newsletter (No. 34, November ter a magnificent 10 year era of edit- proach to sea kayaking and was ob-
1991) was mailed out, melanoma ing the association’s bulletin. Power viously from someone who referred
sadly claimed Graham’s life on 19 hungry politicking and questionable to a mountaineering background and
September. At his Mapua funeral ethical practises of some of the asso- stressed a lightweight approach to
service, numerous tributes all spoke ciation’s silvertail bureaucrats were sea kayaking.
of a gifted, talented all-rounder and a definitely not Graham’s cup of tea.
wonderful family man. The letter echoed all the things I had
In 1988 Graham sent out the first is- been trying to say for years, but in
In September 1991, I wrote a tribute sue of the Sea Canoeist Newsletter a far more succinct manner than I
to the Water Safety Council after Gra- and organized the first of what be- could write. During the drive up to
ham’s funeral, and include it below. came an annual Mapua Sea Kayak Mapua I racked my brain to think
I found it so difficult to paint a com- Forum. The other two newsletters who on earth the writer was; some-
plete a picture of this extraordinary joined Graham’s growing list of one with a way with words and a
achiever, his life curtailed by mela- home printed publications, which mountaineer?
noma at the tender young age of 42. provided an invaluable service for
6
New Zealand Sea Kayaker
Graham was ensconced on a living 70 last month! It’s hard to believe, 2019 Annual Graham Egarr
room couch, battling the throes of but, as Tristan said, “Mum, you’re Paddle Trophy Awards
terminal melanoma. He was keen to going to be 68 this year!”
hear about my Alaskan trip and then I 1. The award for outstanding contri-
asked him, “Who on earth wrote that The reprint with Max Reynold’s bution to the KASK magazine dur-
letter about a minimalist approach to Stewart Island story was lovely ing the past 12 months was made to
sea kayaking?” He didn’t say any- to read. I think about him and Waikato paddler Dennis Hynes. His
thing for a moment, then grinned and John Gray, especially in January superb photos have now graced the
confessed it was he, himself. each year. Next year, it will be magazine cover more than anyone
40 years since they died. Again, else. In the past 12 months he has
I have nothing but admiration for the how time has flown. Graham once contributed excellent accounts and
courage both Graham and Jan have commented, when he knew that photos of river paddles, now and
shown in facing up to the melanoma. his melanoma was terminal, that from his early days 40 years ago.
I only hope when my end is nigh, I he himself had used up several of (This award is the editor’s choice).
can be half as brave and courageous his nine lives, once when sailing
as Graham was. from New Plymouth to Nelson, 2. The award for outstanding contri-
once when paddling on the Ashley bution to New Zealand sea kayak-
In our generation, Graham stands out River and getting caught under an ing during the past 12 months was
as a shining example of devotion not overhang, and on that tragic trip on made to Lance Smith. He paddled
only to his wife and young family the Aorere River when he and an- for many years with Yakity Yak but
but also to canoeing with his formi- other paddler called John, were also more recently he is frequently found
dable list of publications, his drive caught in that whirlpool and nearly honing his skills along the rugged
to protect wild rivers and informing drowned but for emerging close to west coast of the Auckland region.
and educating the kayakers and raft- a cliff which had a handhold. Two years ago he established SKISL
ers of New Zealand.’ in the Auckland/Northland region
Thanks for everything. under Deb Volturno’s tutelage.
KASK 2019 Cheers, SKISL is a monthly event which is
This year will mark 29 years since Jan. run in whatever conditions the day
Graham fell off his perch. I have may hold.
found his shoes rather huge to try
and fill, with continuing publication Lance has been a major force and
of the New Zealand Sea Kayaker and organizer behinds its success and as
continuing with his paddling safety an indirect result was instrumental
initiatives. in SKISL being taken up by a hardy
group of Wellington paddlers. Last
I like to think that Graham would be year he was invited by the Tsunami
proud of how we have taken up and Rangers to participate in their an-
continued with the role he initiated nual retreat. He is one of the main
with recreational paddling in New organizers behind IKW 2020 and is
Zealand. That role has only been involved in getting some key over-
continued with the help of Kiwi pad- seas paddlers/instructors to NZ for
dlers not only with respect to pro- both Bay of Island events (see NZSK
viding magazine material but also No. 197 p.12 for his paddler profile)
the development of safety initiatives
while keeping PC regulators at bay 3. The ‘Bugger!’ Trophy is awarded
- all the time maintaining a safe but for the most humiliating, embar-
enjoyable approach to sea kayaking. rassing, humorous sea kayaking en-
counter over the 12 months. It was
Jan Egarr wrote recently: At the annual KASK Forum held
awarded to Waikato paddler John
Congratulations and thank you for at Anakiwa in the summer of 2011,
Gumbley for a Michelin like man
all your work on the magazine and Jan kindly agreed to present the
event in the Clarence River (see
for sea kayaking. Graham would be beautiful annual Graham Egarr
NZSK No. 198 p.8). John had forgot-
so chuffed that it has continued for Paddling trophy awards
ten to zip up the fly of his drysuit,
200 issues. That really is amazing and after a whitewater capsize, he
for a privately run magazine and I was dragged to the river bank and
know it wouldn’t have continued propped up on the gravel so his
without your dedication and hard drysuit could drain of water. He
work. looked very much like a ‘balloon’ or
Michelin man with the drysuit’s legs
Thank you from me and my chil- and arms full of water.
dren. Graham would have been
7
No. 200 April - May 2019
KASK AGM 2019 Kayak Fest 2020
KASK To all of you who participated in this Registration expectations have sur-
Presidents Report May 2019 online event, it was probably a fairly passed the organizing team’s ex-
by Shaun Maclaren new experience and I thank you for pectations so early on. The target of
being involved. I won’t list what one 100 paddlers is not far away and
I certainly cannot speak for all re- KASK has achieved over the past with only a few places left and so as
gions, but conditions for paddling year, but reiterate our intentions for to avoid any disappointment, my ad-
in the upper North Island over the the coming year: vice is to secure your pozzie sooner
past few months have generally - increase membership through rather than later. Once the registra-
been magnificent. It has been a hec- ‘Club/Network affiliated mem- tion limit is achieved a ‘waiting list’
tic time with the launch of the new bership’ will be initiated.
KASK website, online registration - greater KASK committee par-
for Kayak Fest 2020 going live and ticipation at paddles and or events Kayak Fest 2021
surpassing all expectations, the Safer around NZ. None of us seem have enough time
Boating Forum and more recently - seek external funding for regional these days, so it is important to give
the online AGM. skills weekends ourselves as much of a lead in as
- seek external funding for further possible if we are to host a unique
But first of all, I must apologize for development of the KASK app. event in 2021. It would be right
the delay in the launch of the KASK - identify location and a leader for and fitting to see it return to some-
App. Time may have been a premi- Kayak Fest 2021 where special in the South Island,
um with everything else going on, but if that is not to be, then so be it.
but more importantly we are keen to I would like to thank Ian McKen- It is very much a team effort, so if
ensure that the launch and end prod- zie, Tim Muhundan, Ruth Hender- you or any of your paddling friends
uct will satisfy and not dissatisfy son and Steve Flack on continuing are keen to organize this special
you, the user. as members of the committee and I event in a unique location, then
look forward to the coming year as please contact me at:
The launch date is now planned to be we work closer with the regions. Shaun@kask.co.nz
at the end of May – hopefully sooner. So that we can start the discussion
I ask you to be patient and you will KASK Magazine – Editor and get the ball rolling.
not be disappointed. For those of you who may not already
know, I am pleased to announce that The Importance of Being
200th edition of the KASK Magazine Jacquie James will be taking over as a KASK Member
For me, the new kid on the block, this editor of the magazine from edition Tis a small world. As the result an
is one hell of a milestone. I am in total 202. As editor, it is her task to create e-newsletter and a friend with TRAK
awe of the drive, love and dedication and mould a magazine that you will Kayaks, Jude Sanchez Jr, a KASK
that Paul continually shows in provid- enjoy. As readers, fellow paddlers member in the Philippines, contact-
ing such a high-quality magazine. and members of KASK, I ask you ed me say to see if he could be of
all to become keyboard warriors and any help on our recent trip. What a
In this edition, I have it on good au- or photographers and submit mate- great network KASK is, reaching far
thority that you will enjoy some the rial that will make her introduction and wide.
best writing and articles from the easier. As you know as the magazine
past 28 years of the magazine. will only be as good as it’s contents, Shaun Maclaren
Thank you, Paul. so please get involved and engaged.
New Magazine Editor for New Zealand Sea Kayaker
Hi All, I’m Jacquie. I am taking Raglan, Kawhia, Abel Tasman, Mil- I look forward to hearing your stories
over from Paul, editing the KASK ford Sound, and Doubtful Sound. and publishing them in the KASK
magazine from issue #202 later this magazine and to meet more fellow
year so I am asking/begging for any Previously I have also kayaked in kayakers in person at the KASK
stories and photograph contributions Canada, Alaska and Georgia, USA 2020 event, if not before.
you may have, please email: and Poland. I also am good mos-
jacquie@kask.co.nz quito/sandfly repellent, they love me
and leave everyone else alone. Cur-
A little about me, I have been in New rently I am more land-based due to a
Zealand for almost six years, I have small human - discussions have been
kayaked around the Bay of Islands, had about how to get him on the wa-
in the Auckland area, Coromandel, ter as soon as possible.
Jacquie James
8
New Zealand Sea Kayaker
NEW ZEALAND REPORTS
Chalky and Preservation The Feathercraft takes about
Inlets, Fiordland 30 minutes to assemble/
by John Gumbley disassemble. The kayak
Late February/early March Bevan components fit into three
Walker and I spent 12 days in Chalky bags each weighing 15
and Preservation Inlets. We kayaked kilograms and about one
about 150 kilometres and hiked metre in length. Bevan is
about 20 kilometres to explore these inserting the aluminium
fascinating inlets in order to appre- frame. NZ navigation
ciate their historic heritage, stun- regulations apparently no
ning landscape, flora and fauna. We longer permit the strapping
camped at a different location each of kayaks to helicopter
night including staying at the De- landing skids
partment of Conservation A-frame seas or explore the many sounds, 1806) and whaler’s exploits (the
hut at Te Oneroa and the (packing coves and bays. On some occa- whaling station at Cuttle Cove oper-
case) bivvy on Coal Island. sions we hiked across valleys or low ated from 1829 to 1836). Later tim-
points to explore. Taking compass ber milling, gold and coal mining be-
We were intending to be dropped bearings was important when tra- came established for relatively brief
off by helicopter (ex Te Anau) at the versing swamp forest. periods. Evidence of human occupa-
head of Long Sound (Preservation tion and relics can still be found in-
Inlet) but with the tide covering all A combination of big swells (four cluding middens in caves (of which
beaches we had to be off-loaded on a metres when we rounded Great there are many), boilers, mine adits,
(soon disappearing) beach at Cunaris Island), squalls and windy condi- stamper batteries and wharves.
Sound (Chalky Inlet). tions prevented us venturing round
Gulches Head to get from Chalky to The glaciated landscape is both stun-
Our kayak was Bevan’s six metre Preservation Inlet. Instead we dis- ning and massive - the last glaciation
long collapsible (double) Feather- mantled the kayak and carried our commenced 50,000 years ago and
craft - rubber hull, canvas - type ma- gear in three loads through the one ended 15,000 years ago. The beech
terial on top and aluminium frame - it kilometre wide ‘neck’ that sepa- and podocarp forest would have be-
takes about 30 minutes to assemble. rates South Port (Chalky) and Seek come established 5,000 years ago.
The kayak is 25 years old and has Cove (Preservation Inlet). Round-
travelled to Siberia, Canada, Hawaii, ing Coal Island was similarly con- The geology is complex and com-
Australia and many locations in New sidered unsafe. prises granites and metamorphic
Zealand. The craft is very stable and rock including marble and slate.
proved its versatility when we were In preparing for a trip to these inlets
not able to venture to the open coast it is well worth reading AC Begg At some campsites the dawn chorus
and accordingly had to portage. and NC Begg’s Port Preservation, N of birds was a real treat. Inquisitive
Peat’s New Zealand’s Fiord Heritage seabirds like albatross were also spe-
The inlets presented us with plenty or J Hall-Jones Fiords of Fiordland. cial. Shoreline trap lines were pre-
of paddling options - refer Figure 1 These references provide excellent sent, especially on the islands. We
Route Map (p.10). Quite often we accounts of Maori habitation, early spoke to the rangers on the Depart-
changed our route to avoid rough European exploration, sealers (from ment of Conservation (DoC) boat
Seek Bay - a stunning start to exploring Chalky Inlet after portaging our gear from South Port (Preservation Inlet)
9
No. 200 April - May 2019
Figure 1: Route map Chalky & Preservation Inlets. Commencing at Cliff Cove (Cunaris Sound) and
finishing at Cascade Basin (Long Sound). Camps marked. Scale: 1 cm approximately 2 kilometres.
Southern Winds who were checking the heavy rain experienced on other
traps. Stoat traps were about 100 Fiordland trips. It could get windy in
metres apart on the four kilometre exposed headlands. Prior to and im-
track from the DoC Te Oneroa Hut mediately following our trip out very
to Kisbee Lodge at Cromarty. Deer heavy rain and gale force winds were
were seen twice and all campsites recorded.
had deer sign.
Reflecting on our trip we felt we were
During our time we occasionally saw well equipped. We had a small pres-
fishing charter boats. The caretakers sure cooker that was great to ‘soften
Soon after landing in Cunaris
at Kisbee Lodge, on the only pri- up’ the paua before frying. Had the
Sound, Preservation Inlet, out of
vately owned land in Chalky/Preser-
the late afternoon drizzle, appeared
vation inlets, were very welcoming.
four pack-rafters
Only an hour after we landed at Cu-
naris Sound we met four pack rafters had started their trip at Supper Cove
(in their two inflatable boats) who (Dusky Inlet) and were heading to
Lake Hauroko.
We had cod or paua for seven even-
ing meals with leftovers for lunch
and breakfast. We invariably caught
our evening meal within a few min-
utes - cod, terakihi, red gurnard and Bevan (no relation to Annabel
flounder. Snorkelling was fun but not Langbein) preparing an evening
always essential to get a feed of paua. meal of paua - just gut, dice, cook
in pressure cooker and fry. Useful
Throughout the trip the weather tip: Bevan says leftover paua mixed
Two-on-the-line. Bevan with cod was relatively warm, overcast, with with breakfast cereal and heated is
and terakihi for tea drizzle and squalls but nothing like ‘really nice’
10New Zealand Sea Kayaker
NZ Blue Cod - Maori name:
Raawaru. Large males are more
distinctly blue with greenish sides
weather been sunnier - we had three
rain-free days two of which had blue
skies - more snorkelling would have
been done. We hired a mountain ra-
dio which allowed us to hear weath-
er forecasts, have a daily scheduled
check-in and phone the helicopter Bevan prepares (blue cod) lunch-on-the-go
company for the lift out. Our trip ended at the head of Long
Sound. We investigated the possibil-
Bevan’s one year old MSR cooker ity of dismantling the kayak and car-
failed on the second day but to dis- rying our gear up to Lake Widgeon
mantle it required specialist tools, but the steep terrain, lack of a beach
assuming it could be fixed. Most (at high tide) and a very heavy rain
of my (10 year old) dry bags failed with 50 knot wind forecast had us
to varying degrees. The canvas top abandoning the idea.
of the kayak leaked about two li-
tres an hour in choppy seas or rainy Fiordland is such a privilege to visit.
weather. I have replaced the bags Its turbulent waters, stunning land- Windy South Port in Chalky
and Bevan is having a sail maker fit scape, and beauty demands respect. Inlet; the shrubs have a
a top to the kayak to minimize water It is pleasing to find little rubbish on neatly trimmed appearance
seepage. the shoreline and that the regenerat- all along the beach due to
ing bush has covered the scars that strong northerly winds that
Sandflies - I reckon you must ingest were the scene of former human ex- funnel up the port.
a few dozen in the course of a day. ploitation.
With high tide approaching we were landed by helicopter on a rapidly
disappearing beach where the race was on to stash our gear on higher John Gumbley (Sth Is lake)
ground and start assembling the ‘deflated’ Feathercraft
11No. 200 April - May 2019
7. If you do use a paddle leash, e.g.,
TECHNICAL when paddling alone, just use a very
short wrist to paddle shaft leash.
Deb’s Tips
8. If someone tips out in a danger
By Dennis Hynes zone (around rocks in a swell) tow
them out to safe water and have
During a recent trip to Urupukapuka someone else bring their boat out
Island in the Bay of Islands I had the and then get them back in.
privilege of paddling with Deb Vol-
turno, one very accomplished kay- 9. Tow ropes. In most rescue situa-
aker. tions, especially when rock garden-
ing, a short tow rope, immediately to
In addition to encouraging us to push hand, is an essential piece of kit. To
the boundaries of our ocean white- clip on and tow kayak, with or with-
water skills she also passed on some out kayaker attached, clear of the
of her takes on safety precautions danger zone, to where assisted res-
and kayaking gear. These are some cue can be performed safely. A long
of the points I noticed. tow is fraught with opportunities for
Deb punching out of a chute
entanglement.
Note: Deb is coming at it from an boosted by the backwash of a
extreme kayaking and expedition breaking wave. Photo: Lance Smith
10 A better option for tossing a line
perspective, so you can make your into a paddler in between rocks, is 13. Repair Kit:
own calls based on your paddling for a shorter version of the whitewa- - cable ties make for very quick
circumstances. ter paddlers’ throw bag. and secure attachment in numerous
scenarios.
1. Helmets: 11. If the situation calls for a longer - generous supply of Duct tape.
We should not be attempting any sort tow, to assist tired or injured kayak- - surfers’ wax can be used to lu-
of rock gardening or surfing without ers, there is generally plenty of time bricate or as a packer to fill a hole,
wearing a helmet. to set up the tow. Better to have your prior to duct taping.
long tow rope in your hatch, and - silicone gel to lubricate hatches,
2. Scope out caves/chutes etc., be- even better, as leader, give it to an- rudder lines, split paddles.
fore allowing the group to proceed. other strong paddler to do the tow. - multi-tool &/or spanners/ screw-
drivers to match the fittings on
3. Have someone at either end of 12. Use large carabiners on your tow your kayak.
a rock gap to ensure those passing line – large enough to go around a
make it through safely. paddle shaft. Thanks to Aaron and Andrea for
https://www.kayakhq.co.nz/prod- their recollections.
4. De-clutter your deck, when con- ucts/kong-paddle-carabiner Dennis Hynes
templating rock gardening, surfing
etc. Every extra bit of kit adds great-
er risk of entanglement, obstruction (Reprinted from The BASK Bulletin, March 2018 No. 53)
when effecting rescues, self or as-
sisted. Put it in your hatches.
5. Same with your PFD. Put your
comms gear (PLB, VHF), strobe
lights etc., in your hatch when cap-
size, rescues are likely. Except if pad-
dling alone. But DO keep your knife
attached to PFD. Instead of tying
each bit of kit to her PFD separately
Deb ties them to a carabiner which is
then clipped onto her shoulder strap.
Simple matter then to unclip the lot
and place in her day hatch.
6. No paddle leashes, especially
when in surf or ocean white-water.
Risk of entanglement. Deb Voltunro doing some rock gardening paddling in the Bay of Islands
Photo: Lance Smith
12New Zealand Sea Kayaker
THE BEST OF 28 YEARS OF NEW ZEALAND PADDLING REPORTS
Stewart Island more sheltered east coast back to
Circumnavigation, Oban. If the weather was suitable I
Circumspection would then paddle back over Fove-
& Circumcision aux Strait to Bluff.
by John Kirk-Anderson I had given myself plenty of time
(from NZ Sea Canoeist No. 122 -May 2006) as I didn’t want to race around the
island, but to explore several loca-
‘I’m worried that paddlers are start- tions on the way. I also expected to
ing to think that Stewart Island is an be storm-bound for a couple of days
easy trip.’ in that time, as fronts tended to blast
through in a hurry.
This concern expressed by Liz Cave, The Kiwi footprints that JKA is
owner of Rakiura Kayaks, island A big high sat over southern New certain were surreptitiously placed
born and bred, and the daughter of a Zealand as I left Oban, waved off by by a DoC worker wearing boots
commercial fisherman, was born of Liz who knew better than most what with Kiwi footprints on the sole
local knowledge. Four days later, as I was ahead of me. She has herself cir- Views from the mountain’s rounded
listened to the marine forecasts from cumnavigated the island by kayak, summit extended to the Mutton Bird
the shelter of Doughboy Bay hut, on and had spent her childhood on boats Islands in the southwest and Pater-
the island’s exposed west coast, the in these waters. son Inlet in the south-east.
idea of an easy trip seemed laugh-
able indeed. Pushing into a lazy tidal stream, On the way up I saw my first signs
I wasn’t worried by my pace as I of deception on the island. Let me
Circumnavigating Stewart Island wanted to check out the coastline explain.
solo was something I had long and had only 25 kms to go that day,
planned, and when Paul Caffyn sug- before reaching Christmas Village Stewart Island has a reputation for
gested an exploration of the island’s Hut. This would allow me to climb the number of Kiwi (birds) that can
Port Pegasus with himself and Kevin Mt Anglem, the highest feature on be seen, especially during daylight
Kililea, after a planned trip into the island, next day. hours. Many people have claimed
Fiordland was aborted, it seemed to have seen them, and some even
now was the time. My leave was al- The north-eastern coast in calm have photographs. These people are
ready booked, the tides were favour- weather is a paddler’s delight. Sandy liars. After three visits to the island,
able, and I was paddling fit. All I beaches surrounded by thick bush, I can safely declare that there are no
needed was suitable weather. That’s wild strands of kelp fanning out Kiwi on the island as I haven’t seen a
all, just suitable weather. Hold that across the sea like hair, and water so single one. The whole idea is surely
thought. blue it seemed unreal. a trick by the Stewart Island Promo-
tion Agency, in cahoots with the De-
At 46˚ south, Stewart Island is Early the next morning I was well partment of CONservation!
tucked nicely into the Roaring For- up Mt Anglem, wading through
ties, with no land mass to slow the the mud for which Stewart Island What happens, I believe, is that a
winds from Antarctica, and a fetch tracks are renown. Looking across a DoCon worker, wearing shoes with
circling the globe. Having been to mirror-calm Foveaux Strait towards Kiwi prints on the bottom, wanders
the island three times previously, I the South Island, Bluff Hill and the around leaving sign, and that is what
had no illusions as to the potential chimney of the Ocean Beach Freez- I saw at 900 metres on Mt Anglem.
fury of the weather. ing Works stood clearly visible. Didn’t fool me.
My plan was to catch the ferry across After lunch back at the hut, I con-
Foveaux Strait to Oban, the island’s tinued paddling, again with no wind
only town, and start paddling anti- and flat seas. A tiny tide race off
clockwise. I gave myself 10 days Saddle Point gave me one brief surf
to get around the north coast, down run, but that was the only sign I was
the exposed west coast, and around pushing into the flood tide.
the south capes, the crux of the trip
with their tide races, before meeting Ducking into Yankee River for a
Paul and Kevin in Port Pegasus. We look at the hut, I met a bearded chap
would then spend several days ex- who was collecting water for his
ploring there before heading up the nearby camp. He peered at my boat
13No. 200 April - May 2019
at the office, with few landings on of-
fer and a long stretch across Mason
Bay before the shelter of the Ernest
Islands. Kilbride Homestead, an old
farm at the southern end of Mason
Bay, had been on my list of places
to visit but Liz had said it was now
locked up.
There was still no wind, so I snuck
easily between the Rugged Islands
and Rugged Point, with a low grey
swell climbing towards the low grey
clouds. The Ruggedy Mountains
(notice a pattern?) were indifferent
to my passing, standing staunch and
aloof.
The rain increased and visibility
John’s overnight campsite at picturesque East Ruggedy dropped to less than 1 km, a very
different day to the past two, but I
and asked what sort of kayak it was, surfing, getting lifts off the pressure felt sharper because of it. My GPS
in the tone that meant he knew little in front of waves, peeling away to was churning out numbers, giving
of them. But when I replied that it get another when the energy was my location, but I made a game of
was a Nordkapp he said, “I thought gone. They were a joy to watch. using dead-reckoning to give me a
so, I had one in 1990 to cross Cook grid reference and then checking my
Strait. Bloody nice aren’t they.” He I pulled into East Ruggedy beach, 15 accuracy.
must have noticed my glance at his kms past Yankee River, as the sunset
girth because he explained that he played across the rippled sand. Inland Sliding through the rain, with long
had put on a little weight since he stretched sand dunes, with the hut 1.2 slow swells rolling through, I shared
did that year’s Xerox Challenge, an kms away, too far to have appeal in this special time and place with hun-
adventure race the length of New the gloom. Finding a flat spot in the dreds of shearwaters who were chas-
Zealand! tussock, I soon had the tent up and a ing fish. Ignoring me, they moved
brew on. This was the first time I had away only at the last minute, having
Something about him seemed famil- used my new anti-sandfly head net, decided I was no threat to them or
iar, and he identified himself as John and I learned very quickly that you competition to their fishing.
Judkins, brother of Coast to Coast can’t drink tea through a head net.
organiser Robin Judkins, the man I could hear surf breaking in the
who started the global craze of mul- The marine forecast the next morn- murk to my left, and by the time I
tisport. This country is too small at ing offered a late SW change, and was close to Little Hellfire Beach, I
times. the barometer was dropping, along decided to see what it was like. Edg-
with some light rain. Looking at the ing in quietly, it didn’t look too bad
My overnight spot was going to be map I knew I was facing a long day in patches, with reasonable gaps be-
the next hut, Long Harry, 9 kms
away, but the up-dated map in Yan-
kee River hut showed that it had
been moved and was no longer close
to the coast. So, while the great
weather held, I felt like pushing
on, confident that there were plenty
of spots to land and wriggle into a
bivvy bag.
Exposed now to the westerly roll, this
late afternoon paddle was fantastic.
Sooty shearwaters, or Titi, the famed
mutton birds for which Stewart Is-
land is renowned by Maori, were re-
turning to the Rugged Islands, which
were indeed. No landing spots there!
The shearwaters were masters of air Sooty shearwaters getting life off the front faces of the swell
14New Zealand Sea Kayaker
tween bigger sets. I timed it well un-
til the last minute, when I was clob-
bered, broaching to shore.
‘I’m as happy as a pig in shit’. That
thought suddenly burst out, and I
laughed as I looked around. There
I was, standing in the pouring rain,
nothing around except sea, surf, wet
sand and cloud, on the desolate and
exposed west coast of Stewart Is-
land, and I was having a picnic. My
tea and biscuits tasted better for the
circumstances.
Breaking back out through the surf,
I began to wonder if I might get to
spend more time at Little Hellfire.
One set broke just in front, and I
did the most beautiful back-loop
‘As happy as a pig in shit’ - John enjoys a cuppa on Little Hellfire beach,
I have yet managed. Watching
just before being looped twice in surf
the bow come right over, I got a
glimpse of land before touch down. Eventually the shapes of the Ernest Faced with a swell from the south-
Using the wave’s energy, I quickly Islands appeared ahead and I aimed west, breaking on the shallow beach,
rolled back up and headed out for for The Gutter, between them and I had another gentle sinus flush, this
another try. the mainland. Maps I saw had been time upright, before beginning the
marked that it was suitable only in last leg towards Doughboy Bay. This
Picking my time carefully, I accel- calm conditions. I don’t know about last 10 kms was a grind, with steep
erated into a wave, trying to punch that, as it is not a gutter but a ridge, cliffs dropping from low clouds
through before it broke. My loaded with bush growing on parts of it. straight down to the sea, where a
boat was too slow, and I was picked Looking at the map, I had the option swell smashed into them.
up and surfed backwards. Leaning as of a 5 km back track or a 600 metre
far forward as I could, I tucked into portage. Figuring that the back track Arriving in Doughboy Bay, the col-
a bow rudder stroke (or is it a stern would take 30 minutes I chose to drag our that struck me was brown, the
rudder at the bow, I’m not sure?) try- my kayak. Forty-five minutes later I surf stained by tannin carried from
ing to stop the stern from burying regained the sea, wiser about portage the bush by the rivers. It was a weird
and looping me again. times. I also learned that bull kelp is end to the day, like someone was
better than Teflon as a sliding surface. playing with the palettes in Photo-
The stern buried and flicked me over shop.
the high side and sent me surfing
backwards and upside down towards The Doughboy Bay Hut was empty
the beach. This wave didn’t want to and, within a nano-second, I had
let go, and tried to steal my paddle converted it into a drying room. I
but I had no intention of giving it up, find it remarkable how quickly sea
so we wrestled for a while. When it kayakers can transform any pristine
grew bored with monstering me, I environment into something resem-
rolled up and tried to work out a bet- bling a Chinese laundry struck by a
ter way. laser-guided bomb.
Brute force had failed so I had to get Little did I know that I would spend
sneaky. When I saw a gap, I took it, the next six days in that hut, as a se-
igniting the afterburners until well ries of fronts passed through, bring-
clear of the breakers. All my surfing ing gales every day, swinging from
practice in sea boats paid off. the SW to the NW. Listening to the
marine forecasts I longed for a tiny
Later, a check of my GPS log showed gap, anything below 20 knots would
my maximum speed was 32.1 kilo- have been nice, but I also knew that
metres per hour! Backwards and I needed a serious break of some du-
upside down! No wonder my sinus Doughboy Bay where John was ration in order to venture from my
passages were clear. marooned by strong winds for many sheltered bolt-hole.
days
15No. 200 April - May 2019
see it, with his minimalist approach, Her reply made up my mind.
he would be horrified. While I can’t “There’s no one down there. It’s too
say I understand the problems of rough and they’ve all come home.”
Middle East any better, I am now
better informed. If commercial fishermen used to
working the seas off Stewart Island,
I also made a friend. Wilson may not men known as a pack of sooks,
have appeared to others as just a had decided to pack it in, then it was
discarded fishing float, unwanted no place for a sea kayak.
flotsam that washed up on the beach.
But to me, after I drew a face on him Typical! Waiting for the helicopter
by felt-pen, he spoke of the hard life next morning, the sea in the bay was
he had endured to reach this point, the flattest it had been and I regretted
and, besides, he was a good listener. my decision to leave. When I told the
pilot he laughed and said, “Wait till
The funny part is, later that very day, you get up.”
John’s good mate Wilson, who was Mary joked that Hollywood was go-
not a good conversationalist but ing to make a movie about me, titled The sea was covered in whitecaps
was a rather good listener ‘Doughaway’, starring Tom Hanks. to the horizon, and the westerly was
blowing williwaws off the points in
Access to current marine forecasts, On hearing that the following 10-day Paterson Inlet, easily 45 knots.
sent as text messages by my wife, forecast was for gale force SW, W, Looking on the bright side, Stewart
Mary, to my rented satellite phone, and NW, I had started to consider Island is still around. So am I.
allowed me to carefully consider the other ways of leaving Doughboy
options. I knew what the coast was Bay, with Paul and Liz both check- I didn’t make a stupid decision to
like to the north, having just paddled ing options. ‘Just take a look’ when I knew what
down it. After playing in the surf on the weather was like. Had I done so
a mild day, I knew landings in the A fixed-wing pilot was prepared to I would have come to grief, without
current conditions would be brutal, land on the beach, but could not pick question. I know my limits and into
and a one-way trip ashore. up my kayak. At the time I got that wind, I stop moving forward when
message, I was standing near the it’s blowing 30 knots, and when it
A look at the map showed worse beach, braced into a westerly gale. blows 35 knots, I’m going back-
country to the south, and at least two He may have been prepared to land wards. The lee shore would have
days were required to get around in this cross-wind, but I would not welcomed my arrival with unforgiv-
the southern capes with their tide have got on board for the take off. ing rock and exploding swell.
races and reefs. Walking out from
Doughboy Bay is not fun at the best Being picked up by fishing boat was It was a lesson, albeit an expensive
of times, with the tracks very steep another possibility, but there were one, in practical risk management,
and more mud than solid. But I was none in the area. Walking out, I far removed from completing a
in no danger where I was. If needed would have needed three return trips RAMS form and then ignoring the
I could walk out, but my kayak and to carry out my gear, slung on a pole real world.
gear would have to stay. over my shoulders.
It begs the question:
Life in the hut settled into a routine. Each way would take six hours, on If to paddle around an island is a cir-
It was spent cutting firewood, read- tracks that were more swamp than cumnavigation, and stopping to con-
ing the eclectic collection of maga- not. This would have still left my sider the approaching bad weather
zines ranging from women’s gossip kayak, but I did do a reconnaissance is circumspection, is cutting the trip
mags, to huntin’, shootin’, fishin’ of the track to check the feasibility of short a circumcision?
titles, cutting firewood, staring at the carrying it. While possible, it would
map and forecast, cutting firewood, have been a hell trip.
and wandering the bush, trying to
spot the ranger from DoCon with That left a helicopter, a means of
funny shoes. travel I love, but one I have never
before had to pay for. Facing a bill of
I had packed a colossus of a book, $1,600, I delayed, looking again at
journalist Robert Fisk’s The Great the forecasts, hoping to spot a break
War for Civilisation. The Conquest I had missed. I called the VHF op-
of the Middle East, all 1,366 pages. erator in Oban, asking for a real-time
Liz Cave was aghast when she saw report from the fishing boats work-
it, weighing it in her hand before ing at the south of the island. Whitecaps and williwaws in
saying I shouldn’t let Paul Caffyn Paterson Inlet on the flight out
16New Zealand Sea Kayaker
The Voyage of the Blue Fox Our plan was to paddle the South Our second attempt was more and
By Conrad Edwards Island’s north coast, from Farewell most successful, an uninhabited and
Spit to Picton. The only other ele- steeply shelving beach, with flat
(an excerpt from The Sea Canoeist ment of our plan was to take about sand up against the sea grass. We
Newsletter No.60 two weeks doing it, and we carried hoped that six inches above the high
Dec 1995 to Jan 1996) sufficient supplies for that. tide mark would be good enough,
and it was. Both exhausted from the
This story tells of an intrepid Golden Bay long hours of work pre-trip, rather
expedition by an English man, a Our hope was to paddle first to the than from the two hour paddle, we
Kiwi woman and a German kayak, end of Farewell Spit itself, either slept for 14 hours, waking to a beach
from Farewell Spit to Picton along crossing the mouth of Golden Bay, scattered with people, walking, col-
the rugged coast of New Zealand’s or doubling back to the coast, but the lecting tuatuas, and pulling in crab
mainland. They met with many gale and heavy rain warnings sug- nets.
adventures, mostly of the wet and gested that we stay inshore.
windy variety, and only ran out of The weather-people, full of Christ-
oat bars once. The western coasts of Golden and mas cheer, had changed their mind
Tasman Bays are generally low ly- on the north-westerly gale, and opt-
Christmas Eve 1994 saw Maria ing and unchanging, and so shal- ed instead for sou-westerlies of 40
Bogers and I at the base of Farewell lowly shelving that, from water deep knots gusting 50. As there was only
Spit, assembling the boat and dry enough for easy paddling, shore fea- 20 knots or so when we arose, and
loading it for the first time. For want tures became confused. For identify- our course lay close to a soft shore,
of room, we left with Maria’s father ing landing places and camp sites, we headed off.
the Thermette, my raincoat, and her and locating the shallows, we used
sleeping mat. Maria abandoned also Aerial Surveys Limited’s Coastal Approaching Collingwood, we
her party dress and shoes, evidence Photomaps. Their excellent black veered offshore to clear an uncov-
that her ideas on sea kayak trips were and white aerial photographs gradu- ered sand bar, at which moment
evolving rapidly. We had more or less ally turned to pulp in my imperfect the malevolent southerlies chose to
adequate clothing remaining, although map case. They would have been hit with full force. The sea foamed,
Maria stole my rafting sandals when- our main navigation aid even if I’d all the worse for its shallowness,
ever she could, and I her fleece top. remembered the maps. and we pointed the bow through
the short, sharp chop to shore. As
We moved quickly, and I was soon The first camp site that we reconnoi- some particularly ominous waves
standing in the shallows, watching tred was rejected on local aesthet- approached, Maria stopped to in-
the water under the boat ebb while ics. By the time we had made this quire which way to lean, but must
Maria said her fond farewells. We weighty decision, the boat had been have just heard my pleas of, “Keep
got away just in time to avoid embar- stranded by the continuing ebb, and paddling!” We barely made head-
rassment, and followed the channel had to be juggled and then towed way into the wind and spray, finally
markers out. There was a gentle driz- free. Luckily, I towed Maria fast hauling ourselves ashore to collapse
zle and little wind - perfect paddling. enough to prevent a rotten shark’s under a giant Macrocarpa tree. Too
Looking back, we saw our lift driv- head being hauled aboard as bait. windy for a fire, we erected the tent
ing home, and we were on our own, to thaw out in.
miles from the nearest tavern.
The third member of our party was
the Blue Fox, a Klepper Aerius II
double sea kayak, of the same va-
riety and vintage that Hans Linde-
mann crossed the Atlantic in. De-
spite the invention of fibreglass,
Kleppers remain the choice of
many military forces and scientific
expeditions, as well of course as of
the odd eccentric.
Like me, the Blue Fox was in her
30s, although she looked as new:
varnished ash and blue canvas, clas-
sically beautiful and demonstrably
seaworthy. Like her owner again,
she creaks and groans reassuringly Christmas eve 1994; the base of Farewell Spit; assembly of the Klepper
in the waves. Aerius II is about to begin.
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