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2021/2022
BROCHURE
Our knowledge, your passions
R E D I S C O V E R T H E
WORLDF E AT U R I N G K E N YA , T H E A M A L F I C O A S T, C O S TA R I C A , J A PA N , T H E C A R I B B E A N , J O R D A N ,
M A U R I T I U S , U Z B E K I S TA N , T H E M A L D I V E S , I C E L A N D , C R O AT I A , C A M B O D I A A N D V I E T N A M .
Times Expert Traveller
CULTURE
Culture shock in Vietnam and Cambodia
PAGE
4
E D I TOR’ S
Vietnam, Cambodia and the surprises you’ll find in both.
A guide to the Silk Road
Where, when and how to uncover the ancient Silk Road.
5 L E TT E R
A guide to Japan’s cherry blossom 6 2020 has been one the craziest years in travel with the
When, where and how to see Japan in full bloom. whole world coming to a standstill.
Unmissable Japan 7
Never before have holidays felt so far removed from our day to
Sumo wrestling, tea ceremonies and other essentials
for your list. day lives – despite the fact that, with all of the current stresses,
it’s what we could do with the most!
This magazine is designed to help you rediscover what you love about travel, be it culture, relaxation,
wildlife or adventure. You’ll find guides, stories and top tips for 11 of the world’s most incredible
RELAXATION destinations from our team of experts.
The ultimate Caribbean cruise and stay 9 And, if you feel inspired, we’ve picked the best trips to get you there. Lots of them have additional discounts
We reveal the ultimate itinerary for a Caribbean escape.
if you’re a Times subscriber. Subscribe, or get a free trial, to activate those discounts by signing up here.
What you wouldn't expect from Mauritius 10 We’ve also vetted each operator to make sure they’re ATOL-protected and ABTA or ABTOT bonded, so you
Black mountains and rum are a far cry from the can travel with confidence and know that you won’t lose any money if you book something.
Mauritius we expected.
Lucy Perrin
Everything you need to know about the Maldives 11
Where, when and how to find bliss in the Maldives.
Escaping the crowds in Croatia 12
Shh… here’s where to go to see a quieter side of the coastline.
Editor, Times Expert Traveller
NATURE & WILDLIFE
Planning the ultimate African adventure 14
Where, when and how to do the ultimate
African safari.
Captivated by Costa Rica 15
Sloths, Scarlett Macaws and why you seriously
need to visit.
Walking the Amalfi coast 16
Get advice on the best walking routes
Abdullaziz Khan madrasah in Bukhara, Uzbekistan
including the Walk of Gods.
ADVENTURE
What to expect from Jordan 18
Make note of these three must-visit places in Jordan.
What’s it really like to travel on the
Venice Simplon-Orient-Express? 19
Strap in for a journey on the most elegant train in the world.
How to photograph the northern lights 20
We share how to snap the perfect pics of the northern lights.
Iceland’s biggest secrets 21
Hidden lagoons and puffins – get to know the real Iceland.
Our knowledge, your passions R E D I S C O V E R CULTURE
Times Expert Traveller
CULTURE
CU LT URE SHO C K
I N V I ETNA M A ND O
ne of those bags just moved by
itself. In among the stalks of
Yes, you come here for the culture, but you
also come for the culture shock.Vietnam is
CA MBOD IA varicoloured fruit and vegetables
on sale at Sa Dec market in Vietnam – on
the banks of the mighty Mekong River –
slender, hollow, bamboo shoots are tied
somewhere that evokes all of the senses. The
twisting streets of Hanoi are a treat, where the
pungent aroma from simmering cauldrons of
Pho fills the air and the sound of bicycle bells
At 2,703 miles long, the famous Mekong is the world’s twelfth longest river, and an arterial by rubber bands, encasing their strange ping at every corner. Halong Bay is a completely
thoroughfare, winding a sinuous course across South East Asia. Rising on the Tibetan fruit in plastic bags. Their content is different vibe. Here, you'll sit back and take in
Plateau, and coursing through China, Myanmar, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam, shrouded from view by condensation. the velvety mountains as you sail between 1,600
the Mekong Delta finally drains into the South China Sea. limestone islands. Neighbouring Cambodia is
There! It shifted again! This green-brown-golden, more than worth a visit, too, with the ancient
ever-shifting waterway slides too past villages, temples of and serrated stupas of Angkor
cave temples filled with countless shrines, Wat and the 250 kilometres of the Cu Chi
hillside monasteries, and floating markets. tunnels, honeycombed beneath the ground.
EXPERT TIP
Peter Crane
Global Product Director,
Wendy Wu Tours
Don’t be afraid of
summer’s green
season! Though showers are more
frequent, they’re often refreshing and
welcome, cleansing and cooling down the
air. They make the landscapes truly spring
into life, with lush greenery bubbling rivers
and clearer skies, and it’s typically a quieter
”
and more peaceful time to travel.
That bag jumps again. Then its neighbours start
making hobbled hops too. “What are those?” I We recommend this once-in-a-
ask the stall holder, and she stoops to pick up lifetime 18-day holiday from £3,340pp
a bag, not by its stalk at all, but by its snorkel. Call totoaction
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an expert advisor on
They’re breathing tubes, I quickly realise as she
snaps off the elastic bands and holds a fat frog out 08082
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to encircle the beast’s belly. Apparently local
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people use them as a popular soup ingredient.
Rice paddy fields in Vietnam Full Terms and Conditions listed on Page 22
4
Times Expert Traveller
CULTURE EXPERT TIP
Natalie Fordham
Senior Travel Consultant,
Central Asia & the
Caucasus, Wild Frontiers
A GU I DE
Think about venturing beyond the cities
of the famed Silk Road to explore some
of rural Uzbekistan for a chance to
discover everyday life and experience
TO THE modern day Uzbek culture.
the city’s imperious 5th-century fortified Ark –
”
SIL K smoulder in autumn. Further west along the Silk
Road, Khiva possesses an architectural ambience
torn from the pages of Tales of a 1,001 nights.
ROA D The density of colossal minarets and high-walled
mosques and madrassahs cast timely shadows
rendering it comfortable to explore all summer.
A
s traders plied their wares along When to visit. Spring and autumn. These
the Silk Road, a term coined by are the most popular times to travel with
Ferdinand von Richthofen, new balmy temperatures between 18C and 27C.
cities flourished: major centres of almost Spring’s wildflowers come out and shine, most
unimaginable wealth, where deals were splendidly red poppies that illuminate the
made and goods exchanged en route. desert plains while the mountain’s snowmelt
While Chinese silk was a starting point, turns swollen rivers glacial-blue. During
everything from camels to coffee was traded autumn the Silk Road cities are bathed in a
along the way. Today, a handful of these honeyed light and you’ll enjoy royal blue skies.
ancient metropolises remain: spectacular
reminders of the power and prosperity of
the Silk Road trade routes and you’ll find
some of the best-restored in Uzbekistan.
Where to visit. Samarkand with the magnificent
domes and minarets of its main square – known as
the Registan. Here, blue and turquoise mosaic-clad
tilework sparkles in the soft spring light, while the
mazy calamine-hued lanes of Bukhara – encircling
We recommend this incredible
11-day tour from £2,150pp
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5
Times Expert Traveller
INSI DER KNOWLEDGE
A GUIDE TO JAPAN’S
CHERRY BLOSSOM
When to go. Every year is different when it comes to the sakura (cherry trees). As springtime begins,
the country waits patiently for the first flushes of pink. Usually, the blooms burst into colour between
March and early April. But, if you can’t make peak bloom, don’t fret. An alternative is February, when
the equally beautiful but lesser-known plum blossoms are on show.
Where to see it.You’ll find sakura hotspots in over 1,000 locations across the country so picking the
best can prove tricky. Here are our top three locations…
” For peak pink in the main tourist hotspots, including
Tokyo, visit between the end of March and early April,
when the ubiquitous Yoshino flowers arrive.
”
Maruyama Park The star of its show is a huge of Honshu and loll in bubbling hot spring
tree, whose blossom-fringed branches bow style with silky petals swirling all around.
towards the ground. It’s illuminated in the evening
from dusk until midnight, which is well worth Ueno Park This is one of the most popular
sticking around for. Mount Yishino is a worthy spots in the city, home to over 1,000 cherry
pilgrimage, covered in over 30,000 cherry trees. blossom trees, as well as plenty of museums,
shrines and ponds. A 4km stretch is illuminated
Fuji Five Lakes These stunning lakes come from 5pm to 9pm (from about March 23
with the backdrop of Mount Fuji. For a more to April 10). Graze as you go, on noodles
relaxing experience, visit the volcanic island and sticky rice balls from food stalls.
Cherry blossom and Mount Fuji
7
CULTURE
UN MI S SA BL E
JA PAN
J
apan is a country of the weird and
wonderful, and it’s almost impossible EXPERT TIP
to experience it all in one trip. Reema Shah
Here are the unmissable parts… Japan Product Manager,
Wendy Wu.
Join a tea ceremony. There’s no activity in
Japan more head-clearing than a tea ceremony. No trip to Japan is complete without
The tatami-mat room will be silent but for the trying the famous okonomiyaki, a
trickling of hot water from kettle to ladle to tea delicious savoury pancake. Tuck into
bowl. Wait for the kimono-clad hostess to show the best of the batch in Osaka, where
you where to sit or kneel (perching on the tea table these pancakes originated, and wash
is a mega faux pas). She’ll teach you the ancient them down with a cold glass of
”
‘way of tea’, reverently serving you two types of Asahi – Japan’s most popular beer.
apple-green matcha, plus delicate wagashi sweets.
Don’t get distracted by taking pictures — it’s hard
to do justice to the beauty of the forest and you’ll
get more from relaxing as you wander through it.
Watch a sumo match. Sumo matches are all
about the theatre. You don’t need to understand
it to enjoy the scene; a tournament day features
dozens of sumo wrestlers, starting with junior
rishiki in the early morning (8am-ish) and ending
Steam with snow monkeys. Those cute with the big guns, around 6pm. A couple of hours
macaques blissing out in hot springs are easier is enough, so avoid planning an entire day trip
to spot than you’d think. They’re in Jigokudani and instead turn up at 3pm for the top tiers.
Park, a 40-minute bus ride (plus a half-hour walk)
from Nagano, two hours from Tokyo (you’ll see Experience all of this on an
more sightings between December and March). incredible 18-day tour from £6,840pp
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Meditate in a bamboo forest. Peeping
up around the edges of Kyoto is the Sagano 08082
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Sagano Bamboo Forest, Kyoto.
Bamboo Forest, where towering, skinny trunks or click here to find out more
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thetimes.co.uk/rtwjapan
natural noise said to bring auditary calm.
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6
Our knowledge, your passions R E D I S C O V E R RELAXATION
Times Expert Traveller
One. Start things off in style with a five-star beach
RELAXATION break at the world-class Sandals Barbados. It’s a new
resort that spoils you for choice with eight pools
and whirlpools, 17 restaurants including Caribbean,
Italian, Indian, a French-style patisserie, sushi and a
New York-style steakhouse, and seven bars offering
unlimited wines, beers and premium spirits,
T HE U LT IMATE all overlooking an idyllic stretch of white sand
fringed by swaying palms.
C A R I BBE A N EXPERT TIP
Sue Bryant
C RUI S E A ND STAY
Cruise Editor,
The Sunday Times
The finest weather in the Caribbean is
usually from December to April, which
is peak season for cruising. Several
cruise lines visit the region year-round,
though, and outside the busier months,
”
there are bargains to be had.
Two. You’ll then depart Barbados by setting sail
on Silver Whisper for a 12-night cruise around the
Caribbean’s teal-tinted waters. This ship is one of
luxury line Silversea’s seven, soon to be nine ships,
carrying 388 passengers in utmost style. It’s as posh
as cruising gets, with all-suite accommodation, butler
service, all-inclusive drinks and fine dining. Expect to
be basking under the Caribbean sunshine, cocktail in
hand, while a pool attendant polishes your sunglasses.
Mayreau island, Grenadines
Three. Sail into some of the Caribbean’s
smaller islands and anchorages, with highlights
including sleepy Mayreau, one of the smallest
inhabited islands in the Grenadines, smelling
fresh nutmeg on the spice island of Grenada, and
Antigua, nicknamed the ‘land of 365 beaches’.
T
here are hundreds of different types Experience this exact itinerary
of Caribbean holidays to choose from on a luxurious 16-day cruise
and all that choice can swiftly become and stay from £3,999pp
overwhelming. So, we scoured thousands Call to action here
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of trips to find the perfect combination of Lor mod minciam sit quo que nus
cruise and stay. The following trip includes 08081
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right on the beach in one of the newest thetimes.co.uk/RTWbarbados
Sandals resorts. Here's what to expect...
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9
Times Expert Traveller
RELAXATION
WHAT YOU WOULDN’T
EXPECT FROM
MAURITIUS
It's not all knockout beaches and luxurious salt for more than two centuries. Pay a visit to
resorts on the tropical island of Mauritius. the salt pans at Taramind to watch seawater
For starters, sugar cane has flourished transforming into shining crystals – and
here since the 17th century and Mauritius’s take some home with you for the ultimate
plantation heritage is a distinct part of its souvenir. Whatever you choose, one thing’s
identity, with former French sugar-mill ruins sure in Mauritius, you’ll never get bored.
spread island-wide. You'll also find artisan
rum distillers churning out tipples with
surplus cane, and colonial mansions that have
been revamped into atmospheric hotels.
You won’t see grey clouds in the brochures, EXPERT TIP
but it does rain quite a lot in Mauritius. Don't Tony James
fret – downpours often pass quickly. The south Head of Product,
coast is the least developed; the north, by THG Holidays
Grand Baie, has the highest concentration of The cuisine in Mauritius includes a
resorts and nightlife; the east coast has some variety of flavours and aromas inherited
of the best beaches. But, ultimately, Mauritius from the different periods of the
is relatively compact, so it’s possible to reach country's history, but a real favourite of
most places within a couple of hours. mine is Dholl puri and roti, originally an
Indian delicacy and has become the fish
”
The rest of the time outdoor adventures await, & chips of Mauritians.
on and under the sea. Just off the southwest
coast is one of the best places to learn or
perfect kitesurfing. Swimming with wild We recommend this incredible
dolphins in the bays of Black River is another seven-night holiday from £1,299pp
Aerial view of Mauritius
bucket-lister. Tamarin is the place to observe Call totoaction
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the pods as they come to play and feed.
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Before you leave, make a date with the Black eum, nullign imaximpore volupta
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thetimes.co.uk/rtwmauritius
the sun - Mauritians have been harvesting
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10RELAXATION
EVERYTHING YOU
NEED TO KNOW
ABOUT THE MALDIVES
From above, the Maldives looks more
like a work of abstract art than points EXPERT TIP
on a map — its 1,192 islands, stretching Alicia Miller
from the southern tip of Sri Lanka Assistant Editor, Sunday
to a smidge below the equator, are Times Travel Magazine
nothing but pinpricks of gold and Always book with a tour operator —
green against endless sea. Sounds not only will you get the best hotel
tempting? Here's the best time of year rates, expensive seaplane transfers
to pay those gorgeous atolls a visit… are typically included in the package,
”
saving you hundreds.
When to go. As a rule of thumb, the
northern atolls in the Maldives are driest
from December to April, the southern What are the resorts like? Wherever you
atolls from April to October. At other decide to go, expect to find some of the best-
times rain is common: in the Maldives trained staff and highest service standards in
October is the wettest. Temperatures the world, with enough to do to keep even the
hover between 25C and 30C year-round. most active visitor entertained. All-inclusive
packages have become more widespread and
How long to book for. Four to five days are definitely the way to go in a country where
gives you enough time to relax and enjoy almost everything has to be imported. Just be
the island, but it all depends on how long sure to check exactly what’s covered before you
you’d like to relax for — you’re unlikely to book: the best deals throw in watersports, fitness
tire quickly of such an incredible setting. classes and experiences as well as food and drink.
We recommend this incredible
Five-night holiday from £1,599pp
Call to action here
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Lor mod minciam sit quo que nus
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Soneva Jani, Noonu, Maldives
thetimes.co.uk/rtwmaldives
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11Times Expert Traveller
RELAXATION
ESCAPING
THE The entire pine-studded dreamscape is
a national park, and Lastovo ‘town’ is a
CROWDS IN
tumble down village of steep stairways and
sleepy cats. You’ll walk. You’ll swim in the
Adriatic’s cleanest seas and eat lobster in
CROATIA Augusta Insula on Zaklopatica bay. And
you’ll stargaze – with no light pollution for
miles, the night skies are extraordinary.
Take a dip. Teal, jade, emerald, sage — at the
D
ramatic coasts, lush forests, Plitviče Lakes you’ll see every shade of green
breathtakingly-blue on the spectrum, spread across 16 tranquil
waters – and not another pools connected by babbling cascades, epic
person in sight. Here's where to waterfalls and looping boardwalks. Set off first
find Croatia's quieter side… thing from Zagreb and Zadar, each a two-
hour drive away, although keen hikers should
Sail on a small ship. Don’t do it on a huge stay nearby overnight to sneak in earlier.
cruise ship as you won’t be able to sail into
the smaller islands. We love Ms Aventura,
a luxurious yacht that can navigate the
tiny ports and holds just 40 passengers.
Escape to the edge of the world. As
Vis island is now a boho chic bolthole, those
seeking the edge of the world head to Lastovo,
Croatia’s second most distant island.
It’s reported that 21 million tourists chose Sail Croatia on a small, luxurious
to visit Croatia in 2019, with most heading yacht from £2,199pp
to Dubrovnik. If you’re looking for
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something quieter, dodge the cities 08081
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Trogir, Croatia
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incredible nature offering instead. doluptate nimod moluptati beatur.
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12Our knowledge, your passions R E D I S C O V E R NATURE & WILDLIFE
Times Expert Traveller
NATURE & WILD LIFE
PLANNING THE
ULTIMATE AFRICAN
ADVENTURE
Kenya or Tanzania? Self-drive or luxury lodges? Ensure your African safari holiday is the Choose your style. Africa offers the drives, access to expert guides and some
trip-of-a-lifetime you always dreamed it would be, tips on where to go and when to visit. full gamut when it comes to safaris; from of the best accommodation in Africa.
budget self-drive tours to lavish all-inclusive
packages. Each have their advantages. Consider what you want to see.
If you want to track down the Big Five
in their natural habitat – lion, leopard,
rhino, elephant and buffalo – then take
your pick from the protected reserves of
Kenya, Tanzania, Botswana and South
Africa, which abound with game and have
a well-developed tourist infrastructure,
offering the perfect safari experience.
Decide when to depart. This should all
depend on the part of Africa you settle on,
as you’ll want to visit when you’ve got the
highest chance of seeing animals – so it’s
worth doing that extra bit of research to
find the perfect date. During mid-August
and late September it’s dry season in Kenya,
but also the time of the Great Migration of
Self-drive safaris give travellers the chance wildebeest and zebra, meaning you’ll see
to explore Africa in their own time and these magnificent creatures on the move.
are usually considerably cheaper than
all-inclusives. The downside is that you
If you choose Kenya for your don’t have private guides at your disposal; We recommend this classic
safari destination don’t miss you’ll also need to do a lot of planning. eight-day Kenyan safari from £1,949pp
Nakuru National Park – it’s a hot Call to action here
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At the other end of the market are the
spot for both black and white
luxury safari options with all-inclusive 08082 719 283
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rhinos where they roam among
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lodges, which are typically located on doluptate nimod moluptati beatur.
acacia forest and waterfalls. thetimes.co.uk/rtwkenya
private reserves. The main advantage of
these is that they offer exclusive game
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14NATURE & WILD LIFE
CAPTIVATED
BY COSTA RICA
It’s little wonder this tropical paradise
was the setting for Jurassic Park, I muse,
floating down the snaking backwaters
of Costa Rica. My guide, Andres, snaps
me from my daydream as he jumps
up and points triumphantly at the
treetops, a child-like glee on his face.
I
t’s a sloth, hanging sleepily with two toes once takes his eyes from the treetops. That’s
curled around the branches, that he’s spotted when it strikes me: it’s the love and respect these
– and it’s seemingly unfazed by its noisy locals have for nature that’s allowed it to thrive.
neighbours. Just next door, howler monkeys
wrestle in the treetops, while monitor lizards It’s not just the wildlife I came here for though,
idly warm their stomachs in the sun on the river I remind myself, sinking into a bubbling hot
banks below. Here, in Tortuguero National Park, spring at the end of the day. It's the world's best
Andres confirms, is where you come to find spas, designed by Mother Nature herself. As I
the real treasure trove of Costa Rica’s wildlife. consider this, I look ahead at looming Arenal. One
of Costa Rica’s five active volcanoes, it exhales
the odd cloud of smoke like an old man puffing
on a cigar, savouring every plume. Grabbing my
camera, I change my mind and correct myself. It
was the spine-tingling views I came here for, too.
EXPERT TIP
Lucy Perrin
That would be ignoring the cloud forests, though, We recommend this thrilling 15-day
Editor, Times Expert
which offer up fierce competition. Trekking Traveller tour from £2,899pp
over the low-bellied bridges of Monteverde, I
I’ve travelled around all over the world Call totoaction
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look up: flashes of ruby-red Scarlet Macaws take without finding somewhere that felt
flight, while a shy Resplendent Quetzal flees ‘otherworldly’ until I visited Costa Rica. 08082
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between the canopies, testing the focus on my If I had to recommend only one place for
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to find out more
”
binoculars with a game of hide and seek. My doluptate nimod moluptati beatur.
thetimes.co.uk/rtwcostarica
Arenal volcano Costa Rica
someone to visit, this would be it.
guide clutches a dog-eared bird book and never
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15Times Expert Traveller
NATURE & WILDLIFE
WALKING
THE Looking for something strenuous? Tackle the
three-hour Path of the Gods trail – possibly
AMALFI the prettiest walk on the planet. It starts in
Nocelle then traces the clifftops to the lovely
village of Bomerano. Sip your sundowners
COAST in Atrani’s square, wondering which of
the alleys’ geometric shadows made it into
Escher’s artwork after his 1930 visit.
Italy’s most ludicrously beautiful coastline
stretches from Positano, south of Naples, to
Vietri Sul Mare, just west of Salerno. Here, Salerno
the green Monte lattari hills plunge headlong Positano Amalfi
Cetara
into the impossibly blue Tyrrhenian Sea, Praiano
their steep slopes clung to for dear life by
dazzlingly pretty towns and threaded by
a road as thrilling as it is terrifying.
With its tutti-frutti tumbledown houses,
W
hile most know of its beauty, few Positano is the most photographed town on the
know it’s the ultimate destination coast and is filled with higgledy-piggledy lanes
for a walking holiday: it’s here that packed with gorge-worthy gelaterias and shops
you’ll find routes criss-crossing the hillsides as you selling hand-crafted Italian sandals.
amble through chestnut woods, scented lemon
groves and vineyards glistening in the sun. Amalfi is home to the humbugstriped
cathedral and a souvenir bowl decorated with
lemons. Meanwhile, ravishing Ravello is a
fairy-tale hilltop town perched like a rocky
balcony high above the Gulf of Salerno.
EXPERT TIP
Severio Serbina
We recommend this 15-day
Local guide on the Amalfi coast,
Exodus Travels walking holiday, including the
Joining a small group to walk the epic Walk of Gods, from £1,149pp
trails of the area is literally the perfect Call totoaction
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way to visit this piece of paradise on
earth. Just make sure you bring a good 08082
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pair of comfy walking boots, they will eum, nullign
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be your best friends for the week!
” View of Positano village along Amalfi Coast
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16Our knowledge, your passions R E D I S C O V E R A DV EN T U R E
Times Expert Traveller
ADVENTURE EXPERT TIP
Ed Grenby
Editor, Sunday Times
Travel Magazine
Don't try to tick off Petra in just one
WHAT TO day. It's too big -- and too beautiful -- for
that, and looks completely, magically
different at dawn, dusk and by night, so it's
EX P E CT ”
wonderful to stay over and see all three.
Explore the canyons of Wadi Mujib. Given
FRO M the River Mujib’s dénouement in one of the most
barren places on earth, the Dead Sea, the river’s
crystal line flow breathes life into a paradisiacal
JO R DA N canyon of lush greenness and cool shadows,
teeming with nature, hot springs and waterfalls.
J
ordan’s a Middle Eastern jewel that yields
a treasure chest of the ancient world, but
what should you really expect from this
arabian kingdom?
Go back in time in Petra. Few ancient cities
are comparable to the city of Petra. Hewn from
desert sandstone 2,000 years ago by the mysterious
Nabateans, the ‘rose city’ is the epic setting of a
once lost city in an arid canyon with a dramatic
entranceway through a snaking fissure called the
Siq. Your first glance is the 1st-century Al-Khazneh
treasury with its exquisitely carved stone columns
that flame marmalade-orange in direct sunlight.
Thereafter lies Ad-Deir Monastery’s imposing
45-metre high façade and a Roman amphitheatre
that once hosted 8,500 screaming spectators.
Follow in the footsteps of Moses at Mount
Nebo. In recent times Catholic popes have stood
upon Mount Nebo, one of the greatest pilgrimage
Discover the hidden treasures of
spots in Christendom, at the very point where
Jordan on this 12-day small-group
according to the book of Deuteronomy, Moses
tour from £2,079pp
saw the promised land. After a short taxi ride to Call totoaction
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the summit, the West Bank opens up in sight:
most definitely to the walls of Jericho and if lucky, 08082
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on a clear day, Jerusalem. On top is an engaging or click here to find out more
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thetimes.co.uk/rtwjordan
Moses supposedly died and hosts striking mosaics.
Al Khazneh in the ancient city of Petra in Jordan Full Terms and Conditions listed on Page 22
18Times Expert Traveller
ADVENTURE
WHAT’S IT REALLY
LIKE TO TRAVEL ON
THE VENICE SIMPLON-
ORIENT-EXPRESS?
A
grouch, you may think, but not a bit we are beautifully dressed and we are
of it. The exquisite, sensational Venice disconnected from the real world.
Earlier in the evening I had made my husband, all 6ft 3in of him, stand in the corridor to put Simplon-Orient-Express is not about
on his jacket and bow tie. There simply wasn’t enough space in our tiny cabin for both of us space; nor, for that matter, is it about modern- We sip champagne, we dine on lobster at tables
simultaneously to negotiate our way into black-tie finery. day conveniences. There are no showers (though where the white linen is starched to wrinkle-free
each cabin comes with a dainty basin carefully perfection, we play cards in the bar car where a
secreted in a cupboard), loos are shared two to pianist tinkles the night away on a baby grand.
a carriage, and air conditioning exists only in And, of Hercule Poirot, there is mercifully no sign.
the form of a gentle fan and an open window.
And then, of course, there is the bed situation,
or bunks to be precise, which are miraculously
conjured from our sumptuous daytime
banquette while dinner is in progress. Mine
is on the top; his on the bottom. Hardly the
recipe for true love, and yet, strange as it
would seem, there are few journeys I have
ever made that can match this for romance.
Whether it’s the sheer nostalgia of stepping
back in time to an era of slow, elegant travel;
the shiny beauty of that midnight-blue-liveried
train with its polished art deco interiors; Try the Venice Simplon-Orient-
The 1930s saw the Orient-Express services
the grandeur of the landscape – the Alps in Express for yourself on this 14-day
at its most popular, with three parallel
services running: the Orient-Express, particular – that whips past the windows; or the adventure from £5,999pp
the Simplon-Orient-Express, and also low rumble of wheels on the track that lull you Call totoaction
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the Arlberg-Orient-Express, which ran gently to sleep. It is all these things and more.
via Zürich and Innsbruck to Budapest, 08081
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”
For 24 hours, as we travel between grand or click to find out more
from there to Bucharest and Athens. doluptate nimod moluptati beatur.
European cities, we are ensconced in a thetimes.co.uk/rtwvsoe
time warp. We are genteel, we are gracious,
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19Times Expert Traveller
EXPERT TIP
INSIDER KNOWLEDGE James Draven
Writer, Times Expert
Traveller
In arctic temperatures
your camera battery
will drain much more
quickly than usual, so remember to
HOW TO pack some spare batteries for long
nights in the cold.
”
PHOTOGRAPH THE Where to go. Unsurprisingly, you’re going
to want to head far north, preferably in the
winter when the nights are long, giving you
NORTHERN LIGHTS more time to see the phenomenon. Norway,
Finland, Canada, and Iceland are all great
destinations to seek out the aurora borealis,
with Tromso in the north of Norway being
a popular spot to see the lights, and it’s
a picturesque little town in itself too.
What to pack. You’ll need more than your
average point ‘n’ shoot pocket camera or a
smartphone to get decent pictures of the
northern lights. You’ll need to bring a DSLR
or a mirrorless camera of the type that
allows you to swap lenses. You’ll want to get
as much of the night sky in as possible and,
for better composition, a bit of landscape
too. This means using a wide-angle lens.
Taking pictures of the northern lights requires
mastering night photography. Even with a
full Moon in the sky, working without a flash
in the dark requires your camera’s shutter
to stay open for a long time in order to get
enough light in to make the image visible. This
means that even the tiniest of camera shakes
from your chilly hands will blur the image
terribly, so a tripod is an absolutely essential
piece of kit for any northern lights trip.
Finnish Lapland is also well geared-up Find a stable base and don’t fully extend
for northern lights experiences and, its legs: with a low centre of gravity and
with fewer extended parts to wobble in the
as long as you stay away from skiing
wind, you’re more likely to get a shake-free
hubs, the area is less developed with
”
image. Remember to also set your camera
correspondingly darker night skies.
on timer mode, so you’re not touching
the camera when its shutter opens.
20ADVENTURE
ICELAND’S BIGGEST
SECRETS
T
he ‘Land of Fire and Ice’ is known
for its dramatic volcanoes and lava
fields, ice caves and the northern
lights – but here’s what you haven’t heard.
The Blue Lagoon may not be the best
lagoon. Basking in the blue waters of the
Blue Lagoon, with its mineral-rich hot pools
heating up to a luxurious 39C is a must-do in
Iceland.. Few know, though, about the just as
impressive Secret Lagoon in Hvammsvegur,
equally warm and with a little spouting
geyser which erupts every five minutes.
The northern lights are best spotted
at sea. As a general rule of thumb, if you can
see the stars clearly, you’ll see the northern
lights clearly, so you’ll obviously want to be Iceland is a puffin’s playground. The
as far away from cloud cover and the light big name in Iceland wildlife scene is whales,
pollution of urban environments as possible. but few know about its puffins. Pulling
at heartstrings with their sad clown eyes,
cute, ankle height Atlantic puffins take over
the south coast’s Westman Islands from
April to September, as 60 per cent of the EXPERT TIP
world’s population come here to breed. Alex Allen
Staff Writer, Sunday
Discover the secret lagoon and Times Travel Magazine
hunt for the northern lights Don't miss the Fridheimar tomato farm,
on this five-day trip from £1,195pp slap bang in the middle of the Golden
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an expert advisor on Circle. You'll enter a vast greenhouse, full
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quo que nus to the rafters with aromatic vines. There's
tangy home-brewed tomato beer, and
eum, nullign
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to find out more delicious all-you-can eat tomato soup,
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doluptate nimod moluptati beatur.
thetimes.co.uk/rtwiceland served with freshly-baked bread.
Seljalandsfoss waterfalls
Full Terms and Conditions listed on Page 22
21Times Expert Traveller
TRIP TERMS AND CONDITIONS
Up to date prices and availability can be found on the Times Expert Traveller website. Prices listed are the lowest
price available and are correct at time of publication. All offers are subject to availability and prices may fluctuate.
Times subscribers should visit mytimesplus.co.uk/TET to redeem their discount code. The offer cannot be
combined with other offers or promotions, including loyalty discounts.
CULTURE RELAXATION
The Mekong Prices listed are based on two sharing a The Caribbean Price, itinerary, ship and duration is
twin/double room. Single supplement on request. Offer based on two sharing a Vista Suite, November 17, 2021
subject to availability and prices may fluctuate. Times departure. Alternative date available see web page for
subscribers should visit mytimesplus.co.uk/TET to details. Holidays are operated by Imagine Cruising Ltd,
redeem their discount code. Offer subject to availability Portland House, Bincknoll Lane, Interface Business Park,
and prices may fluctuate. Operated by and subject to the Royal Wootton Bassett, Swindon SN4 8SY and subject
booking conditions of Wendy Wu, ABTA W7994 ATOL to the booking conditions of Imagine Cruising Ltd, a
6639, a company wholly independent of News UK. company wholly independent of News UK. ATOL and ABTA
The Silk Road Prices listed do not include international flights and protected. Imagine Cruising: ABTA Y6300; ATOL 11078.
are based on two sharing a twin/double room. Optional single Mauritius Single supplement on request. Special low deposit
supplement: £210. Wild Frontiers can pair you up with a fellow offer of £199pp applies, balance due 12 weeks before departure –
traveller of the same sex to share a room at no supplement. If for full details refer to supplier’s terms and conditions. Operated
booking online please add discount code to the comments section by and subject to the booking conditions of THG Holidays, ABTA
for the discount to be applied to your invoice. Private tour option: Y6433, ATOL 9528, a company wholly independent of News UK.
please call for full pricing for your requested date and requirements. The Maldives Single supplement on request. Operated by
Operated by and subject to the booking conditions of Wild Frontiers, and subject to the booking conditions of THG Holidays, ABTA
ABTOT 5228 ATOL 5975, a company wholly independent of News Y6433, ATOL 9528, a company wholly independent of News UK.
UK. ATOL protection only applies to flight-inclusive holidays.
Croatia Price is based on two sharing a Standard Cabin,
Japan Single supplement on request. Operated by and October 06, 2021 departure. Alternative dates available
subject to the booking conditions of Wendy Wu, ABTA W7994 see web page for details. Yacht may vary depending on
ATOL 6639, a company wholly independent of News UK. departure date. Holidays are operated by Imagine Cruising
Ltd, Portland House, Bincknoll Lane, Interface Business Park,
Royal Wootton Bassett, Swindon SN4 8SY and subject to
the booking conditions of Imagine Cruising Ltd, a company
wholly independent of News UK. ATOL and ABTA protected.
ADVENTURE Imagine Cruising: ABTA Y6300; ATOL 11078 protected.
Jordan Operated by and subject to the booking
conditions of Exodus Travels, ABTA Y0751, ATOL
25825, a company wholly independent of News UK.
Venice Simplon-Orient-Express Price is based on NATURE & WILDLIFE
two sharing a Veranda Suite, June 25, 2021 departure.
Kenya Single supplement on request. Operated
Holidays are operated by Imagine Cruising Ltd, Portland
by and subject to the booking conditions of
House, Bincknoll Lane, Interface Business Park, Royal
Exodus Travels, ABTA Y0751, ATOL 25825, a
Wootton Bassett, Swindon SN4 8SY and subject to the
company wholly independent of News UK.
booking conditions of Imagine Cruising Ltd, a company
wholly independent of News UK. ATOL and ABTA Costa Rica Additional dates may be available, please
protected. Imagine Cruising: ABTA Y6300; ATOL 11078. call for details. Operated by and subject to the booking
conditions of Exodus Travels, ABTA Y0751, ATOL
Iceland Range of dates available, based on two sharing.
25825, a company wholly independent of News UK.
Itinerary details are subject to change. Operated by and
subject to the booking conditions of The Aurora Zone, a The Amalfi Coast Single supplement on request.
company independent of News UK. The Aurora Zone: Suite Additional dates are available on request at equal or
2, Netherton Park, Stannington, Northumberland, NE61 6EF; higher prices. Operated by and subject to the booking
ATOL 6865, ABTA Y6261. Photography credits: Matt Robinson, conditions of Exodus Travels, ABTA Y0751, ATOL
Ragnar Th Sigurdsson, Arctic Images, and Iceland Pro Travel. 25825, a company wholly independent of News UK.
KNOW BEFORE YOU GO.
We’ve all seen how quickly travel restrictions can change, so it’s important to make sure that you’re well
prepared for every possible circumstance before you book a holiday. Here are some tips from our editor:
1. T
riple-check your travel 2. F
ollow the FCO’s social channels 3. M
ake sure you read the terms
insurance before booking to get advice and alerts on any and conditions of anything
anything and make sure changes to travel restrictions as that you choose to book so you
that it covers any potential soon as they happen. Remember, know exactly what’s at risk if
issues relating to Covid-19. if you don’t have a Twitter account the holiday can no longer go
It could be the case that you you can just bookmark the page. ahead or there are changes to it.
need to get a new policy.
Travel with confidence
22V I S I T thetimes.co.uk/expert-traveller R E D I S C O V E R T H E W O R L D
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