REIMS Le weekend - The French Life
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Le weekend Short but sweet city breaks
REIMS
Paola Westbeek explores the city
of champagne and coronations
on a short break with sparkle
D
ominating Place du I haven’t made any reservations,
Cardinal-Luçon in so I’m hoping I’ll get lucky
Reims, the 13th- and won’t have to settle for
century Notre- a takeaway sandwich. Sure
Dame Cathedral is a sight to enough, there’s an empty table
behold, with its monumental right next to the window at
architecture and sculptural Les 3 Brasseurs, a friendly
grandeur. You must really take brasserie serving traditional
time to admire the lavishly French cuisine and typical
ornamented facade. It boasts gastropub food such as burgers,
an impressive 2,303 intricately flammekueches and planches
carved statues depicting biblical de charcuterie or deep-fried
scenes and nobility – among snacks to pair with the different
them, the famous ‘Smiling beers brewed on-site. I order
Angel’ welcoming visitors by an entrecôte, très saignante, and
the left entrance. eat while watching the hustle
Between 816 and 1825, and bustle taking place outside.
33 rulers were crowned It may be a rainy day in April,
here earning Reims the yet the atmosphere in the city is
name Coronation City. This anything but dismal.
cathedral is one of Europe’s After lunch, I stroll to the
most famed Gothic structures heart of the square to admire
and an example of Reims’ rich the Fontaine Subé from up
cultural heritage. But the city’s close. Erected in 1906 by
historic allure is only part of its André Najoux and dedicated
charm. Situated in the Marne to the four rivers that intersect
département, Reims is also the département (the Marne,
the gateway to Champagne’s Vesle, Suippe and Aisne),
prestigious vineyards. it is crowned with a bronze
statue representing victory
Hunger for culture and dating to 1989. This
Leaving the Gare de Reims, I monumental landmark endured
head towards Place Drouet- the bombings of World War I
d’Erlon in search of somewhere and was attacked again by the
Photo: ADT Marne/Tourisme Champagne
to have lunch. I’ve come here to Germans in 1941, when they
indulge in the famous bubbly, took the original bronze statue
but after a morning on the train, that kept guard over the square.
I’m craving something hearty Nicknamed ‘the Angel’,
before my first dégustation. there is something ethereally
It’s Friday afternoon and the beautiful about this new symbol
rush for a seat at one of the of hope with outstretched wings
many restaurants lining the that seem to almost flutter
lively square has started. against the wind.
56 FRANCE MAGAZINE • www.completefrance.com
www.completefrance.com • FRANCE MAGAZINE 57
Short but sweet breaks
History and heritage
I wake up feeling refreshed after
a relaxing evening and good
night’s rest at Le Clos des Roys,
a charming B&B just a stone’s
throw from the cathedral. While
enjoying a leisurely breakfast
complete with a batch of owner
Gérard’s freshly made pancakes,
I practise my French with his
wife Marie Anne. She tells me
about her travels and about the
history of the building, which
once served as a trading house
for fabrics and was almost
completely destroyed in 1917.
Reims did not escape the
ravages of the Great War
unscathed, and much of the
city had to be rebuilt during
the 1920s and 1930s. This is
evident in the many handsome
Art Deco buildings, including
the sumptuous Opéra de Reims
rebuilt in 1927 (only the facade
remained when it was bombed
in 1914) and the Bibliothèque
Carnegie, opposite the Palais du
Tau, my first stop today.
Founded in the 4th century,
this former residence of the
bishop and archbishop, which
also served as a banquet hall Above: The Taste the difference monks in the 13th century.
after the coronations, was Fontaine Subé, After a day of sightseeing, it’s Their abbey, which once stood
which stands
named a Unesco World Heritage time for some serious sipping. on this site, was destroyed
at 17m tall
Site in 1991 together with the Champagne’s hillsides, houses during the French Revolution,
cathedral and the Musée Saint- Below: Have and cellars were declared a but parts of the chapel can
Remi. It houses some of Notre- you tried Unesco World Heritage Site still be admired as well as the
the famous Hans Westbeek; barmalini / Getty Images; Pixabay; ADT Marne/Tourisme Champagne
Dame’s statues, tapestries and in 2015 and together with remnants of a staircase that led
biscuits roses?
other treasures, among them Épernay to the south, Reims to the vestry.
Charlemagne’s ornate talisman is an important centre of the The tour ends with a tasting,
dating to the 9th century. sparkling wine’s production. the part I’ve been looking
Today, Palais du Tau attracts One of the most renowned forward to most. I sample the
some 100,000 visitors per year, houses in Reims is Taittinger. Comtes de Champagne Blanc
making it one of the city’s most Founded in 1932 by Pierre de Blancs, Taittinger’s Cuvée
popular museums. Taittinger, the house is still in de Prestige. Made with 100%
the hands of the family and chardonnay grapes produced
counts 288 hectares of vineyards in five out of the region’s 17
that produce various styles of Grand Cru villages, sipping
champagne full of elegance and the vintage champagne is a
finesse. At its headquarters on 9 luxury that must be savoured
Place Saint-Nicaise, I take a tour slowly and one of the most
of the historic vaulted cellars memorable experiences during
situated 18 metres underground my visit to Reims – a city that,
and carved out in the 4th despite a tumultuous history,
century. I learn that wines were has managed to retain its
first stored here by Benedictine unique sparkle.
58 FRANCE MAGAZINE • www.completefrance.com
LE WEEKEND
Left: The
Smiling
Angel greets
onlookers
from the west
facade of the
cathedral
Right: The
Palais du Tau,
founded in the
4th century
Below left:
Swathes of
vines surround
the city
FrancOfile
Enjoy sipping and
sightseeing in Marne
GETTING THERE breakfast to cocktails and Tourist Information:
From Paris, the TGV will even tea with pastries. Tel: 0033 (0)3 26 77 45 00
take you from Gare de Must-try: the foie gras reims-tourism.com
l’Est to Reims Centre in marinated in Ratafia Département: Marne (51)
45 minutes. By car, follow (local fortified wine).
the A4 toll motorway to Three-course menu €27.
Reims (1 hr 40 mins). From you feel right at home book a tour at the Fossier
the ferry and Eurotunnel GETTING AROUND and a lavish breakfast. factory and end the
at Calais, the A26 toll Reims City Pass Situated just 10 minutes visit by stocking up on
motorway will take you to Enjoy free city transport, from the station. Doubles their sweet delights at
Reims in 2 hrs 30 minutes. guided tours and from €110. discount prices. Open
entrance to many top Monday to Friday for
WHERE TO EAT attractions. Passes WHERE TO VISIT visits at 10am and 11am.
Le Continental available for 24, 48 and Maison Fossier Registration: €5.50.
Tel: 0033 (0)3 26 40 63 83 72 hours, starting at €22. Tel: 0033 (0)3 26 40 67 67
continental-restaurant.fr No trip to Reims
Housed in an attractive WHERE TO STAY would be complete
19th-century mansion Le Clos des Roys without trying the city’s
on Place Drouet d’Erlon, Tel: 0033 (0)6 75 28 34 85 emblematic pink biscuits,
just a short walk from the leclosdesroys.fr which should be – quite
station, the restaurant Two beautifully ceremoniously! – dipped
(part of a 4-star hotel) decorated rooms, in champagne. To learn
serves everything from friendly hosts who make more about their history,
www.completefrance.com • FRANCE MAGAZINE 59
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