SOUTH OXFORDSHIRE CAMRA PUB OF THE YEAR 2020 - the Bird in Hand, Henley - ..0 "
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SOUTH OXFORDSHIRE CAMRA
PUB OF THE YEAR 2020
the Bird in Hand, Henley
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Editorial
We’re Back! After a gap of four years, I’m the can. Many people are attaching much
delighted to be editing the first edition of a less importance to having completely clear
new phase of SoxonAle’s life, thanks to our beer, whether from a can, bottle or on
partnership with Matelot Marketing. draught, so that, coupled with the use of
yeasts which stick to the container, this is
A lot has happened in those four years not so much a problem as it used to be.
and it’s not possible, or even desirable,
to try to describe it all, so just the major The number of new breweries in Britain
developments on beer, brewing and pubs in continues to increase, with almost 2,000
our area. now brewing. The rate of closures and
amalgamations of existing breweries is also
On the beer front, the influence of the increasing, meaning that the total number
burgeoning American craft beer scene is appears to be stabilising. In the South
being felt on this side of the Atlantic, with Oxfordshire Branch area of CAMRA, we
an increasing variety of “craft keg” offerings, have welcomed Amwell Springs in Cholsey,
many from brewers well-respected for their Brewery58 in Wallingford and Philsters
cask ale brews. Of course, this isn’t Real Ale in Little Haseley, although the brewery
…. Or is it? We have an article exploring the itself has moved into larger premises just
subject, doubtless one that we will return to the other side of the M40. They join Bell
in future issues. Packaging of beer is also Street and Lovibonds in Henley, Loddon in
undergoing something of a revolution, with Dunsden and LoveBeer in Milton. We have,
an increasing number of beers meeting unfortunately, lost Hen House in Whitchurch,
CAMRA’s definition of Real Ale becoming Appleford in Brightwell-cum-Sotwell and
available in cans, something that would have Wallingford Brewery. There is more on
been unthinkable even a few years ago. these breweries in this and future issues.
Proponents claim that canning is more Pub closures are never far from the news,
environmentally friendly than bottling, but less attention is paid to pub openings
cans being much lighter than bottles and and reopenings. See the articles later in this
aluminium easily recycled. Since cans are issue on the reasons why pubs are closing
opaque, however, it’s very difficult to pour and the state of pubs in our area and the
the drink out and leave all the sediment in handy map of where to find them.
Branch Committee Pub Preservation Officer:
David Cooper
Chairman:
Graham Hards Webmaster:
James Lanyon
Secretary & Primary Point of Contact:
Paul Dixon Magazine Editor:
David Cooper
Treasurer: SoxonAle@soxon.camra.org.uk
Mark Lewthwaite
Please email us at: contact@soxon.camra.org.uk
Pubs Campaigns Officer:
Bob Smith To Advertise: Matelot Marketing Ltd
Membership Secretary: n.richards@btinternet.com
Graham Hards 01536 358670
Ale 3
Editorial & Branch Diary
The South Oxfordshire Branch of CAMRA
normally has two meetings a month,
a Branch meeting open to all CAMRA
Branch Diary
members, held in a local pub to deal with MARCH
business matters (and drink some beer) and 4th
a “Social”, usually on the third Thursday of Meeting - Plough, Long Wittenham 8.30pm
the month, a mini pub crawl around three or 19th
four pubs close to one another. This is open Social - Dorchester, White Hart, 8:30pm;
to anyone interested and is a convivial and George, 9:15pm; Fleur de Lys, 10pm
welcoming evening. If you are a CAMRA
member or just interested, why not join one APRIL
of these and see if it suits you? 1st
Meeting - Rising Sun, Witheridge Hill
We try to cover the pubs over the whole of 8:30pm
our Branch area over time, so there is bound 16th
to be one near you in the near future. See Social - Sutton Courtenay, Fish, 8:30pm;
the Branch Diary in this issue or our website Swan, 9:15pm; George & Dragon, 10pm
www.soxon.camra.org.uk
MAY
We also do occasional brewery tours and 2nd
pub crawls in towns near and (occasionally) Pub crawl - Wantage
far. Recent crawls have been in Reading, Details to be announced
South London, Newbury and Bristol. These
are a chance to sample some of the best
pubs outside our area, as well as being
exposed to beers from breweries that we
rarely see locally. We would love you to join PUB QUALITY
PUB
BEER
us.
Now that we actually have the magazine
relaunched, we are planning an exciting ...AT HOME
series of articles of both local and wider Drink Rebellion cask ale
relevance to the beer, cider and pub scene. at home, fresh from the
I welcome any articles that you might like brewery shop
to write if it falls (however loosely) into Fresh beer, ready to drink
1 litre bottles up to 72 pint barrels
those categories. There is no need to be a 0HPEHUVKLSFOXEZLWKEHQH¿WV
0HPEHUVKLSFOXEZLWKEHQH¿WV
CAMRA member and the more controversial including 10% OFF beer
the better! Please send any contributions or Fresh cider
Local produce Shop opening hours:
comments to me at: Over 300 worldwide wines Mon-Sat 8am-7pm
SoxonAle@soxon.camra.org.uk and I will try Free glass hire
to find space.
Call 01628 476594
The views expressed in articles are not
necessarily those of CAMRA, South Or visit our website:
Oxfordshire Branch or myself. www.rebellionbeer.co.uk
@RebellionBeer RebellionBeerCo
David Cooper Rebellion Beer Co. Ltd. Bencombe Farm, Marlow Bottom, SL7 3LT
Editor
Ale 5
Our Pubs
It’s been a long time since the last update • ownership spread over many members
and quite a lot has happened to pubs in of the community means that these
our area, of which there are about 120. Too people all have a direct interest in the
many changes to list them all, but the more success of the enterprise;
recent and notable ones are described here.
We are used to seeing headlines in • the community has a considerable
newspapers about pubs closing all around influence over the running of the pub,
the country. But it’s not all bad news. So making it more likely that locals visit the
let’s start with some good bits. pub more often and it can run activities
that otherwise would not occur.
Crown in South Moreton
A few years ago, the Bull in Great Milton
and the Plough in nearby Great Haseley Half Moon in Cuxham
were bought by members of their local
community and now thrive at the heart The Half Moon in Cuxham was the subject
of their respective villages, although the of an unsuccessful attempt by the village
Plough has recently reverted to private to buy it for the community, but was sold
ownership by Antone Christien and renamed to enterprising new owners and is very
The Haseley Plough. A little less than a year successfully selling excellent pizzas as well
ago, the Crown in South Moreton joined as beer!
these two as the third community-owned
pub in the South Oxfordshire Branch area.
In all cases, acquisition by the community
followed an enormous amount of work by
local villagers in fundraising, publicity, legal
work and volunteering to do much of the
refurbishment. Community ownership has
several advantages:
• there is no rent to pay on the premises,
since the community owns the freehold,
although there may be a small payment
to shareholders or interest on loans to
buy the pub or for refurbishment; Mulberry in Didcot
6 Ale
Our Pubs
The Wallingford Arms in Didcot was closed On the other hand, we’ve lost a few other
for several years, but has now been brought pubs, or they are currently closed, with an
successfully back to life by the owners of uncertain future.
the Blueberry in Blewbury (geddit?) as the
Mulberry. The Four Horseshoes in Checkendon
has finally lost its status as a pub and the
There’s a new pub on Great Western Park whole premises is designated as a dwelling,
in Didcot, the Station Garden, operated by following a lack of support from the Parish
Marston’s. Council.
The Dog and Duck in Highmoor has been
demolished, following several years of
closure and is being replaced by new
housing.
Nearby, the Lamb at Satwell, is closed and
looking very sorry for itself, as the owner
failed, after several attempts and an eviction
notice, to gain planning permission to turn it
into residential accommodation.
The Royal Standard in Wallingford
And after a rocky few years as The Partridge,
the Royal Standard in Wallingford has
reverted to its old name and operating so
successfully with new tenant David Haines,
that it was recently awarded the Branch’s
Pub of the Season for Autumn certificate.
White Lion in Crays Pond in happier times.
Photo taken by Roy Denison
In a somewhat similar saga, the White Lion in
Crays Pond was bought in September 2013.
The new owner started to convert it into a
private house before South Oxfordshire
District Council, alerted by local residents,
stepped in. Planning permission for change
of use and an appeal against the decision
The Keep in Wallingford were both rejected, but it took a High Court
Also in Wallingford, our area’s first micropub injunction in February 2019 before the owner
opened a couple of years ago as The Keep, finally left the premises. Meanwhile, the pub
on Castle Street. is empty and the villagers are deprived of a
once-thriving pub.
Ale 7
Our Pubs
The Crown in Nuffield has also been closed to make it into the heart of the expanding
for several years. However, applications for village. Considerable alteration and
change of use have been refused and it is refurbishment to the Grade 2 listed building
at present shown as being Under Offer, so is involved and the pub is unlikely to be
hope remains that this Grade 2 listed pub on open until at least April. Another Crown, in
the Ridgeway and the main Wallingford to Chalgrove, has recently been sold and we
Henley road will reopen. look forward to its reopening.
The Reformation in Gallowstree Common More good news for three of our other
is also closed. The pub’s conservatory, pubs. The Fleur de Lys in East Hagbourne
which contained the main dining area, was - our 2019 Pub of the Year was runner-up
demolished several months ago and it is in the Central Southern Region of CAMRA’s
reported that the land on which it stood has competition for that accolade, missing out
been sold, along with other land surrounding narrowly to the legendary Bell at Aldworth,
the building. It is feared that without the extra which has gone on to win the National Pub
dining area, the pub will not be economically of the Year title. The Plum Pudding at Milton
viable. The pub has just been redesignated was awarded the Regional Cider Pub of the
as an Asset of Communtiy Value by SODC. Year title. And the Bird in Hand in Henley
has just been voted our Pub of the Year for
Good news, though, on the Crown in 2020. More next time.
Benson. Greene King has sold it to Hook
Norton Brewery, which has ambitious plans
8 Ale
Ale 9
Our Breweries
At the present time, there are seven Brewery58 started at about the same time
breweries in our area. Along with the rest as Amwell Springs.
of the country, their number has increased It is unashamably a
in recent years. And, also like the wider hobby brewery in
world, we have had our fair share of brewery Wallingford using
closures including Appleford, Wallingford, kit gifted to the brewer, Mike Acreman, on his
Hen House and the Complete Pig. This retirement. Two regular beers are produced,
article is a quick rundown of those presently mostly bottle conditioned – Wallingford
operating in our area. We plan some more Castle (5.4% IPA) and Wallingford Bridge
in-depth articles in future issues on individual (3.9%). Cask beer is occasionally produced,
breweries. mainly for beer festivals, and bottles are sold
in several shops in the Wallingford area.
Amwell Springs Brewery is the latest
addition to our area. It is Philsters Brewery, named after the
to be found in an old barn nickname of the brewer,
a little way behind Cholsey Phil Lynne, started as a
Station. Only 2½ years old, hobby on a 60 litre kit
the brewery was founded in the brewer’s home in
by David Gibbons and his Little Haseley in 2015,
son, Andrew, who is the brewer, delivery but expanded last year
and marketing man and much else besides. to a new 4½-barrel plant
Sustainability is at the heart of much of what on a small industrial estate the other side of
the brewery does. Water (liquor to those the M40. Both cask and bottled beers are
versed in brewing terminology) comes from produced, with a regular lineup of Glass
the eponymous springs, situated just a few Blower (3.6% session bitter), Haseley Gold
tens of metres from the brewhouse. The (4.1% golden ale), Oxford Red (4.2% ruby-
used malt is fed to local livestock, yeast is coloured bitter), Boosh (4.5% light copper-
harvested and spent hops composted. coloured best bitter), Rising (4.5% IPA) and
Darkside (5.1% traditional full bodied porter,
Four regular beers are brewed, all with cocoa nibs).
referencing local personalities, most
obviously Chairman Dave (3.8% pale The beers are available on cask at a few
ale), named after the brewer’s father and local pubs, including the Plough, Great
chairman of the company. The others are Haseley and Bull, Great Milton and at local
Easy Geez (4.5% amber ale), Mad Gaz (5.2% beer festivals.
IPA) and Stay Jammy (3.8% malty traditional
English ale). LoveBeer, Milton. Brewing since 2017 on
a six-barrel plant,
The beers are found in several local pubs, Jim Southey
mainly around Wallingford, but the number started the
of outlets is expanding steadily. brewery in 2014
on a ½-barrel kit.
The brewery lists no fewer than ten beers,
10 AleOur Breweries
all named after dogs, although some are a Brakspear classic best bitter), Brakspear
available only occasionally. The more Old Ale (4.3%. Another re-creation of one
popular ones are Hair of the Doug (5.1% of the original Brakspear classics. Actually
golden ale with a hint of ginger. Beer of the Brakspear Special with caramel!)
Wantage Beer Festival 2017), OG (4.1% extra
pale ale) and Doctor Roo (3.7% golden ale Loddon Brewery, Dunsden Green. Loddon
with citrus flavours from citra hops). Much of is the largest and
the output is bottled conditioned, but cask most well-established
beer is found in some local pubs, notably the brewery in our area,
Plum Pudding close to the brewery. started by former
Brakspear brewer,
Lovibonds, Henley. Started in 2005 in Chris Hearn and
premises formerly owned wife Vanessa in 2002, the year that the
by a brewery of the Brakspear brewery closed. Innovative and
same name by American forward-thinking, Loddon beers have won a
Jeff Rosenmeier. string of awards since the founding of the
Technically, Lovibonds 20-barrel brewery in a 300-year-old barn.
beers are not Real Ale Some Loddon beers will shortly be available
according to the CAMRA in cans. Six regular beers are brewed, along
definition, although they are unfiltered and with a host of seasonal and special beers
unpasteurised, but dispensed using CO2 – Citra Quad (4.4% session IPA. This is the
pressure (see Craft and Cask article in newest regular beer in the Loddon range,
this issue). Lovibonds was forced to leave introduced by new head brewer, Jake
its tasting room premises in the centre of Bartleet-Perry), NOTUS (4.7% American Pale
Henley in mid-January, but has a state of the Ale, another recent addition to the Loddon
art brewery, opened in 2017, a short distance range), Reading Best (4.0% traditional
away and is hoping to find an alternative English bitter with some American hops),
taproom venue in the town. Ten beers are Ferryman’s Gold (4.4% golden flagship beer,
listed on the website, the most commonly one of the two original beers in the Loddon
available being Henley Gold (4.6% wheat range and winner of over 25 national and
beer), Henley Amber (3.6% British pale regional awards), Hoppit (3.5% traditional
ale) and Henley Dark (4.8% London porter, English session bitter, the other original
slightly smoky). beer brewed by Loddon), Hullabaloo (4.2%
copper-coloured traditional best bitter).
Bell Street Brewery, Henley. Brakspear Another Loddon beer, Hocus Pocus (4.6%
closed its brewery in old ale) has won gold in the Old Ales/
Henley in 2002 and Strong Milds category at the CAMRA Winter
most beers are now Champion Beer of Britain Festival 2020.
brewed by a subsidiary Congratulations to Loddon.
of Marston’s in Witney.
Brakspear re-entered The Loddon Taproom is a recent addition to
the brewing business in 2013 behind the the brewery and a very popular place to both
Bull on Bell Street, with a four-barrel plant, try and buy the beers. Plans are afoot to
supplying mainly the Brakspear estate. The expand the drinking space and relocate the
brewery produces a wide selection of beers, shop. Regular brewery tours with a fish and
many one-offs for events. The regular chip supper and special events are hosted
beers are Henley Pale Ale (3.9% pale ale), in the taproom and the brewery itself.
Brakspear Special (4.3%. A re-creation of
Ale 11Didcot Pubs in our Area including clubs, hotels and restaurants serving real ale Wallingford 12 Ale
Henley Ale 13
PLUM PUDDING
44 High Street, Milton. OX14 4EJ
01235 834443
BEER FEST
Friday 24th-Saturday 25th April
Turns out getting
16 beers and 4 ciders
pulled over by the police
visit our website:
www.theplumpuddingmilton.co.uk isn’t always bad news
It started as a day much like any other for
our delivery driver. But later that morning,
as he was carefully navigating the A64 with
a precious cargo of Landlord casks, the
flashing blue lights of the North Yorkshire
constabulary appeared in his mirror. He
pulled over, fretting about why the police
were stopping him. But rather than issue a
ticket, the officer wanted to order a delivery
of Landlord to the police social club. Is it
the combination of the finest ingredients
and our traditional brewing methods that
means some drinkers go that little bit
further for that arresting taste of Taylor’s?
All for that taste of Taylor’s
14 AleWhy we are Losing
2,000 Pubs per Year?
It goes without saying, doesn’t it, that a from one, but right in one. The process is
reduction in beer duty would help Britain’s bloody and brutal and there’s no sign to an
pubs, currently disappearing at a rate end of it. And it’s the second such event in
approaching 2,000 a year? So when my 61- year lifespan. The first, in the 1980s
David Cunningham, programme director at and ‘90s, reduced the number of once-
Britain’s Beer Alliance (a brewing industry ubiquitous wet-led food-free village or
front organisation), says the Long Live the street-corner locals to a rump. Such pubs
Local campaign “will raise awareness of still exist, but they are so rare that they
the jeopardy our local pubs face from an constitute a niche in themselves. Now more
unprecedented range of tax pressures, broadly-based community pubs are in the
specifically beer duty, which should leave same terminal decline.
the Government with no illusions about the
strength of feeling behind protecting the We can argue about social changes as the
UK’s pubs and the communities that rely on cause till the cows come home to roost, but
them,” — well, who could argue? the fact is that some licensees have been
able to adapt, and not just by building a
And when he adds: “In light of the range smoking shelter and stocking 15 artisan
of tax pressures pubs face, the number of gins. They have grasped that there are no
precious institutions we have already lost longer enough casual regulars to maintain
forever, and the human impact of planned the viability of a business of any size, and
beer duty rises, … we need a change in that going out is, for the vast majority, an
our approach and a new campaign,” you experience-led event for which there is an
can hardly stop yourself cheering. Sadly, unprecedented range of competition. Most
none of it is true. Beer duty adjusted for haven’t, though; and the loss of generic
inflation hasn’t increased over the years: pubs will continue until those that have
in fact, according to the Institute of Fiscal failed to adapt — the small businesses in
Studies beer duty is actually lower than it big, expensive shells — are weeded out,
was in 1988 when GrandMet launched the and who knows how many that will leave?
20-year Inntrepreneur lease. Until now it 15,000? 10,000? Fewer?
was a similar story with business rates: the
total collected by local councils rose from The slide could be stopped before then,
£22.4bn in 2015-16 to an estimated £24.9bn but only if the impossible happens — only
in the current year, almost exactly in line if Mr Cunningham’s vaunted change in
with inflation; and although the effect of approach by the big leased pub chains were
the recent business rates revaluation is not anything more than a press release and
insignificant, historically tax hasn’t been the some PoS material. Because the elephant in
problem. So, it must be something else. Mr Cunningham’s room is pubco rents and
restrictions. The model of upward-only rent
Make no mistake, this crisis is existential. reviews, put-and-keep obligations, minimum
The generic all-purpose old-school pub is in purchase, full wholesale prices, supposed
the middle of an extinction event — not on asset value that (as it transpired) no bank
the eve of one, not facing one, not at risk would lend on and all the other burdens
Ale 15Why are we Losing 2000 Pubs a Year? of the standard lease was dreamed up by GrandMet’s estates director Mike Dunthorne more than 30 years ago. It was eagerly imitated by the lease chains that floated off on rafts of debt from the Big Six following the Beer Orders. The subsequent downturn forced most of them to securitise their rental streams and clapped financial irons on lessees who — as the only productive components in the whole dizzy pyramid — had to and have to pay more and more for less and less. So the income that would give them and lenders the confidence to invest in adapting to changing trading conditions has been siphoned off not by the Chancellor, but by their landlords. And since there is no chance of a general halving of rents, there is only one way of preserving the sort of casual drinking and dining we are about to lose: independence. Some years ago I had the good fortune to interview Martyn Hillier of the Butchers lifestyle) on a low turnover. And all because Arms, a tiny bar in a former florist’s in Herne they had no pubco on their backs! Anyone Bay, Kent. It’s the original micropub: a normal can do it; more and more people are. pub stripped right down, with everything unproductive discarded. No kitchen. No Taxes, though, are not the issue in the not- dining room. No beer garden. No car park. so-slow death of casual drinking, and for No staff. No business rates. No gas, and pubcos to expect the taxpayer to subsidise precious little electricity. Not even a flat. Just their failures under the pretence of a a bar, a WC, Martyn, a cadre of enthusiastic “campaign” is outrageous. The future of the regulars, and beer at open market prices. pub as we used to know it (and can know The regulars are as keen on real ale as he it again) is the micropub, where we can is, and he knows there are enough of them drop in for a pint and a chat and know that in Herne Bay to keep a lean and focused the only people taking our money are the operation like his not just going but fairly brewer and the licensee, and in neither case skimming along. do we begrudge it. Martyn’s example inspired me to put The Bar Owners’ Handbook by Ted Bruning, together a manual explaining how he did pictured above, is obtainable from: it; and while researching the Bar Owners’ www.posthousepublishing.com Handbook I came across many others like price £12.95. Published in 2019 and him, who had looked for low-rent shop-fronts generously sponsored by Matthew Clark. to convert, done so as cheaply as possible (£8,000 in one case, including stock, all paid Ted Bruning was editor of What’s Brewing, for on a credit card), cut overheads to the the CAMRA members’ monthly newspaper, bone, and achieved margins of 60% or more from 1999 to 2006. to make a good living (and an agreeable Ted Bruning 16 Ale
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Cask
In the early nineteen seventies, when CAMRA Cask beer is brewed in the same way as
was born, things were quite simple. You keg beer. However, the beer is put directly
went into a pub and if the beer came out of a into sterilised casks, with sufficient yeast
hand pump, then you could be pretty certain for fermentation to continue slowly and the
that you were getting a cask-conditioned ale beer to mature, similarly to wine in a cellar.
(or “real ale”, as CAMRA called it). If it came The maturation/conditioning process takes
free-flowing out of a tap, then it would be at least two weeks. Beer served too early
keg beer, filtered, pasteurised and driven is described as “green”, a common cause
from the hermetically sealed keg by carbon of poor quality cask ale. Casks are sealed
dioxide under pressure. until they are tapped, at which time they are
vented to the atmosphere, when the evolved
The essential distinctions between keg and carbon dioxide dissolved in the beer comes
cask beer are: out of solution quite rapidly and makes the
Keg beer is dispensed using pressurised beer initially “lively” and frothy. After some
carbon dioxide, which dissolves into the time, this process slows and the beer pours
beer, making it a bit fizzy as the gas comes with less head. But as beer is drawn out of
out of solution once poured. a cask, the volume is replaced by air, which
oxidises various components in the beer,
As mentioned above, keg beers are almost notably the alcohol, turning it to vinegar. As
always filtered and pasteurised (to kill off a result, a cask beer should not be left on
any remaining yeast or other microbes) sale for more than three days, and ideally
so that they remain in the same condition two. Cask beer, therefore, is an inherently
when dispensed as when they leave the less consistent product and requires more
brewery. This ensures both consistency care and skill from the publican to ensure
and a long shelf life, both before and after that it is served in excellent condition.
tapping. But the filtering and, particularly,
pasteurisation affects the taste, removing The keg method of distribution and
more volatile compounds and altering dispense was, in the late sixties and early
heat-sensitive ones. They also prevent any seventies, not the only threat to traditional
further development
lopment of the beer’s
beer s character. English beer. Consolidation in the brewing
18 AleCraft & Cask
industry led to the emergence of six large the beer is not always very obviously
brewing groups which took over and carbonated, by keeping the pressure from
closed many smaller breweries, motivated the CO2 cylinder quite low. In any case,
by short-term profits. That meant cheaper most drinkers are quite used to the high
(therefore inferior) ingredients, short-cuts carbonation of bottled beer. Because no
in the brewing process and distribution air, only CO2, comes into contact with it,
in kegs to reduce the amount of labour. the beer deteriorates more slowly than in a
Efficient it may have been, but the consumer cask. Keg beer is, therefore, very attractive
was suddenly forced to drink fizzy beer for publicans, as the long life of a keg beer
from new-fangled taps, along with a rapid once tapped means much less potential
reduction in choice and quality, supported wastage of the product, especially if sales
by vast marketing budgets. Not all were are slow. The benefit to the consumer is that
so convinced. The founding of CAMRA the risks of being served stale, vinegary or
soon produced an organisation with a excessively flat beer are very small.
mushrooming membership that challenged
the stories peddled by the big brewers. And In conclusion, the old certainties about
everyone in the beer industry had to take the relation between beer quality and
notice. Within a few short years, there was the way in which it is served have been
hardly a pub that wasn’t advertising Real (or considerably undermined by a combination
Cask) Ale Sold Here. The pitiful keg bitters of technological and brewing innovation.
had mostly disappeared and been replaced Cask ale is usually reckoned to be the best
by a host of traditionally brewed and served quality product, provided that it has been
beers in a wide variety of styles. looked after by a skilled cellar person, who
can keep it under optimum conditions both
Over the past decade or so, this easy before and during its sale period, is not
distinction of “keg bad – cask good” has sold too early and can be sold within two or
been progressively breaking down, thanks in three days of tapping the cask. Keg beer is
large part to the influence of small American a more consistent product, may be brewed
“craft” brewers, who have no tradition of using quality ingredients and skill, and is not
serving beer directly from the cask or via a necessarily filtered or pasteurised. Because
hand pump. American brewers are highly keg beer is delivered and kept in a sealed
innovative, producing a bewildering variety container, there are many fewer things
of beer styles, whose methods have been that can go wrong in the pub. The quality
imported, along with the keg dispense, to of a good keg beer from a well-respected
Britain. brewery will almost always be superior to
that of poorly-kept cask ale. But because
There is, therefore, no longer an easy of its potential to mature like a fine wine, a
identification that keg means poor quality, well-kept top-notch cask ale is the superior
filtered, pasteurised, gassy beer made choice. Fortunately, many breweries
from cheap ingredients and industrial scale and pub-owning companies are waking
production. Craft keg is just as carefully up to the need to train their licensees
brewed, using quality ingredients as cask in proper management of cask ale and
ales. It may or may not be filtered to remove organisations like Cask Marque and CAMRA
any residual yeast, but is rarely pasteurised. have accreditation schemes to allow the
And the recipe used has usually been consumer to have confidence in the quality
developed to suit the higher carbonation of real ale in approved pubs.
normally attendant on keg beers, although David Cooper
Ale 1901491 410678
Thameside
Henley-on-Thames
Oxfordshire
RG9 1BH
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20 AleVeganism &
Beer Drinking
Veganism is in the news more than ever at So how do real ale drinkers find out if a
the moment but what does going Vegan beer is Vegan? Unfortunately the CAMRA
mean for a beer drinker? Good Beer Guide app doesn’t (yet) contain
information about which beers are Vegan
When you think Vegan, drinking real ale and but fortunately there are growing online
cider doesn’t immediately spring to mind resources such as www.barnivore.com and
as being a “no, no” but I am afraid the vast the Android/Apple app “Vegibeer” which
majority are not suitable for Vegans. you can use to check hundreds of real ales.
List the ingredients of real ale; water, hops, In 2015 Guinness abandoned the use of
malted barley, yeast.... ok so far, but the isinglass in their keg beer meaning all draft
majority of modern ales and ciders contain Guinness today is Vegan and Newcastle
another ingredient known as “finings”. Breweries did the same in 2018, switching
to a non-animal based fining.
Finings are substances which are added
to beers and ciders to remove organic So why don’t all brewers change? Cost?
compounds and brighten (improve clarity). Effectiveness? Flavour? Tradition? All of the
The substances used as finings vary, but above?
they can include non-vegan products such
as gelatine, albumen (egg-white) or isinglass Alex Scott the head brewer at Loose
(the dried swim bladders of fish) which make Cannon called me to explain that the
the final product not suitable for vegans. industry-wide use of isinglass is about
cost effectiveness and customer demand.
Local brewers Loose Cannon, West Demand for Vegan beer is still relatively
Berkshire Brewery, Wychwood, and White low, but Loose Cannon are monitoring it
Horse all use animal-based finings in their and will look into the economics of testing
cask ales. It is not all bad, West Berkshire an alternative to isinglass in the future. West
Brewery sells bottled ales which use a Berkshire Brewery said “We are currently
different process to clarify and so are vegan- looking into alternatives, most people are
friendly and Loose Cannon Session IPA is used to our cask ales being crystal clear &
unfined. landlords may not have the time/space to let
the beer ‘drop’ for extended periods if we
leave them unfined. All our 500ml bottles
are registered by The Vegan Society.”
Alexander Holland
Ale 21Join up, join in,
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