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SPRING 2021
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF MODELING
Sterling Sidebottom Director - Kelly Pham
Clara Luisa Matthews Associate - Denasia Pegues
Associate - Gabriella Torres
ASSOCIATE EDITORS
Nupur Shah HEALTH
Alex Berenfeld Editor - Jacqueline Gu
Editor - Priya Kosana
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Hannah Griffin PRODUCTION DESIGN
Director - Sharon Hernandez-David
DESIGN
Director - Maansi Patel
Editor - Zoe Hambley
Editor - Annie Rudisill PHOTOGRAPHY
Editor - Kendal Orrantia Editor - Helen Hong
Associate - Leighann Vinesett Editor - Gabrielle Strickland
Associate - Nicole Mora
ARTS
Editor - Alicia Robbins SOCIAL MEDIA
Editor - Madison Owens Director - Dayja Brooks
BEAUTY Director - Isha Padhye
Editor - Jasmine Wilson
STYLE
Editor - Alice Novinte
Editor - Juliana Koricke
COPYEDITING Editor - Clay B. Morris
Editor - Emma Spears Associate - Anwar Boutayba
Associate - Tran Nguyen
VIDEOGRAPHY
Associate - Jodie Londono
Editor - Payton Tysinger
OUTREACH Editor - Robin Gao
Director - Lizzy Laufters
WEB
Associate - Rushi Doshi
Director - Joan Xia
Associate - Rylee Parsons
DIGITAL
Director - Erin Campagna
Associate - Tania Tobaccowala
Associate - Leslie Guzman
FEATURES
Editor - Nicole Moorefield
Editor - Isabella Sherk
Associate - Sara Raja
WEB - COULTURE.ORG
INSTAGRAM - @COULTUREMAG
TWITTER - @COULTUREMAG
FACEBOOK - @COULTUREMAGAZINE
1 COULTURE MAGAZINE • CALM
ARTS DESIGN VIDEOGRAPHY
Claire Helms Lillian Clark John Bigelow
Connor Neely Niki Suchy Yuchen Bai
Camila Moreno-Lizarazo Elizabeth Bryant Yunshu Yu
Anthony Howard Elinor Kelly MaryGrace Stephenson
Katelyn Crespo Grace Beasley Emma Claire Lisk
Meg Woodburn Anna Mott Alex Colven
Elaina James Naomi Burns
Emily Gajda Marina Fela-Castillo HEALTH
McCarty Beckerman Elizabeth Ordoñez
BEAUTY Addison Skigen Adriana Diaz
Izzy Dalo Deja Boone Jackie Sizing
Sophia Alem Anna Thomas Henley Younts
Sofia Martinez Jaeny Yoo
Cameron Massey WEB
Bethany Macon FEATURES Sneha Senthilkumar
Ashley Quincin Sarah DuBose
COPYEDITING Sabrina Ortiz Samantha Bobal
Caroline Bowers Lorelai Sykes Anna Allen
Lindsey Banks Anna Mudd Lindsay Callihan
Grace Beasley Leah Berry Brianna Li
Elizabeth Efird Annie Gibson Sarah DuBose
Jenna Hann Brian Rosenzweig Samantha Bobal
Allison Manning Anna Allen
Sarah Malone PHOTOGRAPHY
Makayla Santos Jordyn Burrell SOCIAL MEDIA
Elizabeth Sills Chase Cofield Ashleigh Wilson
Brooke Spach Daniela Rodriguez Katie Billings
Anne Tate Reanna Brooks Jannisha Francis
Bethany Macon John Ratkowiak Asya Earle
Adithi Reddy Ella Babcock Emily Snyder
Ellen Hardison Sarita Lokesh Sarah Campbell
Mira Fefferman Vivien Liebler Malvika Venkatesh
Maddee Burt Amalia Marmolejos
DIGITAL Ashley Chang Abbey Thompson
Caroline Nihill Brooke Lester Shelby McLamb
Emma Henderson Cynthia Liu Graci Daby
Ellen Cochran
Karen Chen
Claire Burch STYLE Bridget Glenn
Valeria Martinez Margot Midkiff Katelyn Chedraoui
Hayley Owens Joey Marmaud Nuria Shin
Isabel Horak Lillian Hawkins Jennifer Vargas
Alyson Cabeza Ellie McCleary Emma Cooke
Aashna Shah
PRODUCTION DESIGN Sadie Allen ADVISOR
Izzy Dalo Anna Kate Tucker Dana McMahan
Amelia Mason Buck Mae Rowley
Rose Calnan
OUTREACH
Monique Gandy
Amanda LoScalzo
Haylee Frazier
Naomi Burns
Straeten Avery
John Duffy
Pareen Bhagat
Iyana Jones-Reese
Hayla Hurt
Hannah Kim
Sarah Ruth Jackson
Francesca Del Posso
Samantha Casolaro
Claire Proctor
Emory Keel
Madison Aarons
Addison Lanter
Mary Kate Burns
Rathi Ganesan
2
LETTERS FROM THE EDITORS
3
05
07 THE ART OF DANCING WITH GHOSTS
09 BEAUTY IN BLOOM
THE AESTHETIC PHENOMENON
COULTURE MAGAZINE • CALM
13
15 THE MISSION FOR MENSTRUAL EQUITY
17 ARTIFICAL AMBIENCE
19 FASHION: A STORY ABOUT CONTROL
CURRENTLY TRENDING
21
JAPANESE AMERICANA
27
29 THE MASCULINIZATION OF MEAT
31 WELLNESS DOESN'T BELONG TO WHITE PEOPLE
SO MUCH MORE TO SAY
35
39 THE LAST SUPPER
55 GREETINGS FROM ECUADOR
59 SHOPPING ONLINE TO ESCAPE REALITY
61 PEACE OF MIND
71 ON STOLEN LAND
79 BDSM BEYOND THE BEDROOM
87 GEN Z'S TWILIGHT RENAISSANCE
89 THE DISCIPLINE IN SERENITY
91 THE OUTSIDE
92 LOW RISE JEANS... YES OR NO?
93 THE FUTURE OF SUSTAINABILITY IN CARRBORO
95 FRESKLO
4
97 COLLAPSED IN SUNBEAMS: PAIN, HEALING, AND GROWTH
CREATING CALM
LETTERS FROM THE EDITORS
A year has passed and we are still in the differently and to see ourselves differently. It’s this idea that fills us with a sense of
middle of a global pandemic. You might be It meant being kind to ourselves, stillness: our global community exists no
wondering: What possessed Coulture to celebrating every accomplishment (no matter the political and cultural rifts that
release an issue titled “Calm”? matter how small), forcing gratitude and we impose.
It seems paradoxical, but in a time of holding on to our loved ones a little tighter. We’ve come to a stoic understanding
chaos, calm manifests itself in surprising A major source of calm for us was of the balance between our insignificance
ways. Calm became our lifeline, and we’ve the realization that the world, despite and our importance. This realization didn’t
found ourselves redefining what the word our distance and differences, is so happen overnight, but rather came from
means. fundamentally connected in the human intention, reflection and ultimately, calm.
To us, calmness is strength. It’s the condition. Although it feels terrifying to In addition to our individual growth,
ability to tread water instead of drowning, see millions of people, including many creating has also been a source of calm.
weather an unpredictable storm or close to our hearts, infected by a disease We are the first two people to have
even maintain sanity after months of that originated thousands of miles away, started the Associate Editor-in-Chief role
imprisonment in tight quarters with our it allows us to understand just how in this virtual setting. Because of this,
families. It isn’t easy, but there’s an ease infectious our actions can be. We may our year has been unlike anything we’ve
to it. be infinitesimally small, but our impact experienced before. Alongside Sterling
Seeking out our versions of calm reaches further than we can fathom, for and Clara, we took on the task of building
meant finding the courage to see the world better or for worse. a magazine within the confines of health
guidelines and limited resources.
Despite everything, this year felt like a
dream.
Even though nothing looked the
same for our staff, we were met with
enthusiasm, dedication and unwavering
talent from every single team, every step
of the process. Our year as Associate EICs
taught us that Coulture is nothing without
the nearly 200 people that pour their souls
into these pages.
Without our Creative Director,
Features, Graphic Design, Health, Arts,
Digital, Style, Beauty, Copyediting,
Production, Outreach, Modeling,
Photography, Social Media, Video and Web
teams, Coulture would be dust. Each of you
means everything to us. Love you, mean it.
All of us from Coulture hope this issue
helps you look up to the sky and see the
light. We hope you can see the calm even
when everything around us feels dark,
impossible and strange.
As you flip through this issue, abandon
your preconceived notions of calm, what it
means and where to find it.
5 COULTURE MAGAZINE • CALM
Writing this letter is difficult. Not only are we
graduating and leaving behind an extremely formative part
of our lives, but this semester has not really embodied our
theme outside of these pages. It was in the news, it was in
our production — sometimes it felt like Chaos followed us
into this semester.
We picked this theme a year ago, when we were one
month into the pandemic and just beginning to figure out
what our time as Editors-in-Chief would look like. We
liked the duality of Chaos and Calm but had no idea if the
latter would be a reflection of the world around us or if it
was simply wistful thinking.
Ultimately, we’ve learned that a theme is just a theme.
Even as we see the light at the end of the tunnel, we’ve
discovered that the pandemic was a sense of calm in of
itself. The blinders we put on when we were thinking of
an end to the pandemic provided us a way to tune out the
chaos. Removing them means recognizing that we didn’t
live in a calm place to begin with.
The restoration to normal life includes returning to
mass shootings, hate crimes intensifying, and the fear of
social isolation prevailing. So much has changed since we
first began creating Calm in January, yet that does not
mean that the world we live in is unequivocally better.
This is a concept we are still struggling with.
This was supposed to be a semester full of relaxation,
a time to bond with our closest friends and have a farewell
tour before we head off into the real world. All those plans
have been moved. We’ve had to rethink what we thought
senior year would be and instead ask ourselves how we’ll
find calm once we’ve logged off UNC-Chapel Hill Zoom
for the last time.
We’ll be hiking in Utah or sitting by the lake in New
Hampshire. We’ll be preparing to move to new places and
meet new people. Most importantly, we’ll be re-entering
a normal that is so complicated we don’t quite know how
to feel about it. We will be moving out of Chapel Hill and
away from Coulture, keeping the lessons we learned from
both with us as we shift into the next stage of our lives.
We hope that our last issue as Editors-in-Chief speaks
to a number of different experiences. Whether you are still
deeply in quarantine or beginning to return to normal, we
want these pages to reach you in this period of transition.
Amidst the chaos, we hope they offer you a sense of calm.
6
7 COULTURE MAGAZINE • CALM
THE ART OF
DANCING WITH
GHOSTS
WRITTEN BY JOHN BIGELOW | DESIGNED BY LEIGHANN VINESETT
Silence can be one of the most soothing “Garden Song” exhales the first album is the desire to be something other
sounds. It allows peaceful and pure breath that was clutched by “DVD Menu,” than yourself. Two prominent examples
thoughts to flow within our minds. Silence drumming a smooth beat reminiscent come from the songs “Halloween” and
can also be one of the most suffocating of a babbling brook running through a “Chinese Satellite.” On “Halloween,”
sounds, making us feel sullen — gripping viridescent meadow. Its storytelling is Bridgers barely sings above a whisper,
its frozen hands over our ears. The so personal that it’s almost like we’re singing, “Baby, it’s Halloween / And we can
quietness of the opening instrumental eavesdropping on a session between be anything / Oh, come on, man / We can
track to Phoebe Bridgers’s critically Bridgers and her therapist. The lyrics, “I be anything.” And on “Chinese Satellite”
acclaimed album “Punisher” embodies grew up here, ‘til it all went up in flames / she softly sings, “I want to believe /
both of these qualities. It’s tranquil and Except the notches in the door frame,” are Instead, I look at the sky and I feel nothing
haunting all at once. a direct reference to her childhood home / You know I hate to be alone / I want to be
The opening song, entitled “DVD burning down shortly before her parents wrong.”
Menu,” sets a nostalgic pace for the story decided to get a divorce. To be “calm” is to be free from motion
she unravels throughout her sophomore Bridgers is a 26-year-old who is wise and disturbance, finding peace within
album. If you pay close attention to the beyond her years. Her intricate lyrics are yourself. Bridgers’s desire to convey her
details in the music, you can hear the an impressive example of that. She is also calmness is prominent in each song she
melody of the closing track, “I Know a native of Pasadena, California, which writes. She wants to be something other
the End.” It is soft and nostalgic, which boasts the annual Tournament of Roses than herself, but by the end of the album,
perfectly sums up Bridgers’s music in parade. The Rose Parade was another she finally finds peace.
general. inspiration behind “Garden Song.”
“Punisher”’s power rounds out in a
full circle moment between the album’s
opening and closing tracks.
“ON EACH SONG ON THE ALBUM,
BRIDGERS HAS NO DIFFICULTY
BEING VULNERABLE OR DISPLAYING
THE SKELETONS IN HER CLOSET.”
The next standout on the stellar The most soul-crushing tune on
album is “Kyoto.” In this song, Bridgers this album is “Moon Song.” The song
addresses her desire to see the world by is heartbreakingly slow. It’s almost like
visiting Kyoto, Japan, but she expresses trying to cautiously carve a self-portrait
how it never lives up to her expectations. of yourself in a mirror. In other words,
At the same time, the story is juxtaposed if you apply too much pressure to carve
with a message about learning to let go of yourself, you’ll crack the glass. But if you
her relationship with her father. The two break through the mirror and shatter the
themes are paired by the longing to have a glass, you still have the chance to make
better experience in Japan and the longing something beautiful out of something
to have a better father. “You called me broken.
from a payphone / They still got payphones On each song on the album, Bridgers
/ It cost a dollar a minute / To tell me has no difficulty being vulnerable or
you’re getting sober / And you wrote me displaying the skeletons in her closet. She
a letter / But I don’t have to read it / I’m has ghosts that seem to follow her around,
gonna kill you / If you don’t beat me to it.” but by the closing track, she knows the
A running thread throughout this end. And she isn’t afraid of it.
8
BEAUTY IN BLOOM
WRITTEN BY ALICE NOVINTE | DESIGNED BY ANNA MOTT
PHOTOGRAPHED BY JASMINE WILSON AND ALICE NOVINTE
“Florals? For spring? Groundbreaking.” The famous words artistic mediums, like resin molding and framing, but they have
of “The Devil Wears Prada”’s most infamous character, Miranda become increasingly popular in the beauty world. Rather than
Priestly, stained the reputation of florals throughout the 2000s using florals to frame the face through accessories like flower
and into the 2010s, but in the new decade of the 2020s, florals are crowns or flowers tucked behind the ears, makeup artists are
back on-trend with a refreshing new take. Even though the beauty incorporating pressed flowers into their looks in the form of
industry has become more saturated with innovative products eyelashes, eyeshadows, and facial decoration. The diversity that
for consumers to try, beauty lovers are moving away from typical flowers offer in terms of shapes, colors and sizes allows makeup
beauty products to a more natural approach. artists to create colorful, bright looks that are perfect for spring
Pressed flowers are a material that have been used in multiple and summer.
9 COULTURE MAGAZINE • CALM10
PHOTO HERE PHOTO HERE PHOTO HERE 11 COULTURE MAGAZINE • CALM
PHOTO HERE
MODELING AND MAKEUP BY ALICE
NOVINTE, SOFIA ALEM, CAMERON
MASSEY AND JASMINE WILSON
12THE AESTHETIC PHENOMENON 13 COULTURE MAGAZINE • CALM
WRITTEN BY HAYLA HURT | DESIGNED BY ELIZABETH BRYANT
Merriam-Webster defines the word this misogynistic notion that women occasions they had for the day or both.
“aesthetic” as “a branch of philosophy cannot be interested in or like any sort Next, different types of media, not just
dealing with the nature of beauty, art, and of aesthetic without being criticized in social media, served as sources of aesthetic
taste, and a particular approach to what is some way. It’s a notion that aligns with the inspiration for half of the subjects. For
pleasing to the senses — especially sight.” incredibly high standards our society has example, one interviewee credited a
Essentially, the concept of an aesthetic placed on women. Women are criticized portion of her aesthetic inspiration to
expands on the phrase “beauty is in the for not having a deep or profound reason the recent increase of Asian character
eye of the beholder,” yet pertains to more for dressing however they choose. After representation in mainstream television
aspects of one’s daily life. addressing this notion and its origins over and movies.
Our generation has given a new the past couple of years, women have The most noteworthy commonality
meaning to the term “aesthetic.” When you felt less of a pressure to stray away from points to the development of aesthetics
think of this term, you are likely thinking of styles that they may actually like for the over the course of the past year amidst
specific kinds of lifestyles that differentiate sole purpose of avoiding criticism in their the pandemic, and how the concept of
visually and apply to almost all aspects of fashion choices. aesthetics has served as a tool of self-
one’s self-expression: the way a person Social media platforms have discovery. One interviewee claimed that
dresses, the way they style their hair and skyrocketed the popularity of different “dressing in [different] aesthetics factors
makeup, their home decor and even the aesthetics, and you can see this especially into assisting me with the battle against
media they consume. The aesthetics that on TikTok and Pinterest. On Pinterest, complacency and defeatism during the
are popular on social platforms include: users have the option to create boards that pandemic,” while another disclosed
“indie,” “cottagecore,” “90’s,” “Y2K,” correlate to whatever category the user that she “dressed pretty safe growing
“dark academia,” and “soft,” to name a few. desires. Recently, Pinterest has gained up, and now [is] coming into her own
A closer look at these categories shows traction for its contribution to popular freedom with fashion, especially during
that even the definitions of these aesthetic aesthetics because of how easy users can the pandemic.” People have stepped
labels themselves are being redefined as we create their own fashion and lifestyle into using aesthetics as a tool to merge
take influence from notable eras of modern moodboards. Over the course of 2020 and escapism and role-playing to discover new
fashion and pop culture. into 2021, TikTok has become a hub of sides of themselves. All subjects noted
A large reason why the aesthetic aesthetic discovery and inspiration among that dressing up in different aesthetics
phenomenon has become so popular
amongst our generation revolves around
the concept of wanting to be like the
“PEOPLE HAVE STEPPED INTO
people touted as “ideal” in the media,
specifically social media. Companies
USING AESTHETICS AS A TOOL TO
market clothing and other items pertaining
to certain aesthetics online by taking MERGE ESCAPISM AND ROLE-
PLAYING TO DISCOVER NEW SIDES
advantage of people’s insecurities. They
push the idea that a consumer needs
the clothing they see on social media, or
needs to fit the aesthetics they see on
social media, to feel admired or secure
OF THEMSELVES.”
within themselves. Growing up, when Generation Z, especially among young felt like becoming different versions of
I saw people I admired in the media or adults and college students. themselves and that seeing what versions
people that had the face and/or body that With the origins behind the aesthetic of themselves they could create helped
I wanted, I would take note of how they phenomenon in mind, these questions channel newfound confidence.
styled themselves. I wasn’t secure in how must be asked: Do people see these Whether one’s relationship to
I looked then, so I imitated the styles of aesthetic categories as limiting or freeing? aesthetics in fashion serves as a place of
those I admired. The thing is, it didn’t Why do people feel drawn to aesthetics play or a place of deep identity, it is clear
matter at the time what the aesthetic even with bounds and limits? Do people feel that the act of getting dressed can be a
was, or if the aesthetic was something I comfortable within those limits and feel powerful tool in determining how you
personally liked. This may be a reflection no need to step outside of them, or do they decide to live and exist, and aesthetics
of how some people think because feel the need to expand from that label can act as a gateway to doing that.
marketing and advertising affect us more from time to time? How much of one’s Experimenting with aesthetics can be a
than we may realize. identity is correlated with their particular guide to knowing and expressing who one
Another reason, although very surface aesthetic choices? After interviewing some is, no matter how many versions there may
level, is that people feel drawn to certain friends of mine who regularly dress in be. As time goes on, we can look forward to
aesthetics “just because.” Recently, there’s different aesthetics, commonalities among how the meaning of aesthetics in our lives
been a lot of discourse surrounding their relationships with the concept arose. will continue to change.
style and aesthetic choices by women First, there is a correlation between
specifically. Women have been called one’s intention and mood of the day and
basic for following certain aesthetics or how one chooses an aesthetic. All subjects
styles but have also been ridiculed for had a set of aesthetics that they enjoyed,
experimenting with their style in ways that and their intentions behind which aesthetic
don’t align with what is popular. There’s they chose reflected either their mood, the
14The Mission for
Menstrual Equity
WRITTEN BY KATELYN CHEDRAOUI AND SARA RAJA | DESIGNED BY DEJA BOONE
Whether you call it “that time of the interest for UNC-Chapel Hill’s Menstrual eliminate it, we need to tackle it on
month,” “getting a visit from Aunt Flo,” or Health Equity (MHE) club. Sophomore multiple fronts: making period products
“the worst week ever,” menstruation has Annie Braker is co-president of the club. accessible, increasing reproductive health
been given many names by the over 800 “Removing the tax from period education and working to destigmatize
million people who menstruate on any products is a really good start because even menstruation. Both locally and
given day. Despite being a natural bodily though it’s just a certain amount of money internationally, menstrual health equity
process, the health issues surrounding taken off, that can go a long way for a lot
menstruation are rarely addressed and
are generally considered a taboo topic of
of people who don’t have easy access to
menstrual products,” Braker said.
“MENSTRUATION
conversation.
Periods are heavily stigmatized. In
MHE at UNC-CH holds fundraisers
and period product donation drives for IS AN IMPORTANT
some cultures, when people menstruate,
they are considered dirty and impure.
women’s shelters in the Chapel Hill area,
like the Inter-Faith Council’s shelter for ASPECT OF
REPRODUCTIVE
They can also be barred from attending women and families. They also work to
school, socializing and even eating certain educate UNC-CH students about the
foods, according to the UN Women’s “End stigma surrounding periods and the issue
the stigmas. Period.” campaign. 42% of
American women-identifying individuals
of menstrual health equity.
The club has a “birth control crash
HEALTHCARE,
surveyed in 2019 by THINX have
experienced some type of period shaming.
course” and holds a “time of the month
Tuesday” where members can learn
AND THE
Menstruation is an important aspect
of reproductive healthcare, and the
more about different issues concerning
reproductive and menstrual health equity. CONVERSATION
AROUND
conversation around it would benefit from It is also planning to collaborate with other
a political and cultural overhaul. One menstrual health equity organizations,
approach to making periods more equitable like The Menstrual Movement club at
would be to eliminate the pressing issue
of period poverty, or inadequate access
North Carolina School of Science and
Mathematics — expanding its education to
IT WOULD
to period products, sanitary facilities and
waste management. A 2019 Reuters study
middle and high schoolers.
Braker said increasing the conversation
BENEFIT FROM
found that two-thirds of the low-income
American women surveyed could not
about periods is important to ending the
stigma. A POLITICAL
afford period products during the previous
year. More than 20% said they faced this
“I think just talking about periods
normally like it’s not something to be AND CULTURAL
OVERHAUL.”
problem on a monthly basis. The stories scared of is a really important first step.”
are worse for incarcerated or homeless In an attempt to alleviate period
individuals, whose supplies are based poverty, Scotland recently became the first
on government allocation or fluctuating country in the world to pass legislation is necessary to ensure that menstruating
donations. making all period products free and readily folks have access to the supplies, education
In North Carolina, menstrual products available, according to BBC News. The bill and support they need. The first step to
are considered non-essential luxury goods makes local authorities responsible for tackling period poverty and stigma is
and are taxed at 4.75%, with an additional providing period products like pads and sparking open conversations and educating
2-3% depending on the county, a tax tampons in designated public places, as the public on this often overlooked issue.
referred to as the “tampon tax.” You may well as continuing access in all Scottish
also know this as the “pink tax.” Because schools, colleges and universities. New
period products are classified as such, Zealand just expanded its pilot program
they cannot be bought with government to ensure free period products in all their
assistance, like food stamps. schools as well.
The “tampon tax” is one area of Period poverty is a global issue. To
15 COULTURE MAGAZINE • CALM16 COULTURE MAGAZINE • CALM 16
ARTIFICIAL
AMBIENCE
WRITTEN BY ISABELLA SHERK | DESIGNED BY ANNIE RUDISILL
17 COULTURE MAGAZINE • CALMON THE LAST DAY OF NORMAL the stresses within life were smaller than I 2020 was all about using my resources.
TIMES, I was sitting in my hometown had built them up to be. Simply put, it was While I still wish I could slip into
Starbucks doing some classwork over a chance to get out of my own head. relaxation mode like I used to, I’ve found a
spring break. I stared out the window, When the worst-case scenario that I way to manufacture the feeling when it is
unmotivated, while the workers disinfected had carefully crafted became reality, my necessary.
tables around me. It was emptier than mind short-circuited. Taking college classes These videos help me simulate a
usual — and ominous. from my childhood bedroom was hardly comfortable place to complete my work.
Suddenly, my phone chimed, and spring ideal, but doing any work at all without When mentally preparing for a mountain
break was a week longer. I sighed, shut my the extrinsic motivation of my dreamlike of assignments, I display the video on
laptop, and went home. environment seemed impossible. my desktop computer or television to
Many people admit they only expected The disconnect between me and the set the mood while I work on my laptop.
the pandemic to last a month. As a chronic rest of the world felt enormous, and I Sometimes I even light a candle.
overthinker and avid news consumer, my was more anxious than ever. I struggled Of course, watching calming videos on
mind went straight to the worst possible through the remainder of the semester, my computer is certainly not a cure-all for
scenario pretty quickly. And for what seems dragging myself across the invisible finish a lack of motivation during an isolating and
like the first time ever, I was completely line into the summer. scary time. However, it is a nod to escapism
right. When the fall semester hit, there was when physical escape is impossible.
I didn’t realize then that I would look some sense of normalcy in online school, For me, stress is only a motivator
back on that day as the moment everything but the absence of connection and the when I wait until the last possible second
changed: the last day where I could sit in a stagnation of my surroundings still had to start a task; when I’m on the clock
coffee shop and write, work on homework a hold on me. So, I turned to something and every molecule of me is focused on
or stories and people-watch. unexpected: YouTube videos. finishing. This is not a helpful mentality
It was the last day I could simply exist More specifically, I discovered the when you are juggling multiple classes
among other people, strangers with their ambience genre. Think eight-hour- and responsibilities on top of the mental
own completely overflowing lives that long animated videos with music and turmoil of a pandemic.
intersected mine for a mere moment. background noise simulating real-life Is it even possible to simulate a calming
Maybe this is the case for everyone, experiences. environment when you are locked in your
but, to me especially, my environment is My favorites obviously showcase parents’ house waiting on a vaccine or a
miracle? In short, no.
"IT WAS THE LAST DAY I COULD But it is possible to let your mind
sink into a familiar and comfortable
SIMPLY EXIST AMONG OTHER state — with considerable effort, of
course. Ambience videos are my way of
PEOPLE, STRANGERS WITH THEIR
transporting myself, not physically, but
mentally.
Going to a coffee shop used to get me
OWN COMPLETELY OVERFLOWING out of my own head. Now, the artificial
environment that lives on my computer
LIVES THAT INTERSECTED MINE screen distracts me from the noise
accumulating in my mind when I am
FOR A MERE MOMENT." physically stuck.
So, as if I were in an actual coffee shop,
I let myself lean into the feeling of ease,
everything. Going to a coffee shop used to a coffee shop environment with jazz letting my mind recognize the rain sounds
mean sinking into the atmosphere: being music and sounds of rain tapping on the and jazz music in the background of my
enveloped by chatter, the coffee grinder illustrated windows. Throw in an animated thoughts. In the foreground, I become
and whatever early 2000s song was playing crackling fireplace and you’ve got me laser-focused on what needs to be done.
over the speakers. hooked. Eight-hour ambience videos might
Just being there would put me into a My favorite channel is called Calmed By not work for everyone, but they’ve filled
hypnotic state, frozen as the rest of the Nature. The person who runs the account a coffee shop-sized hole in my heart
world moved around me. The ambience animates the scenes and creates the music and satisfied my need for relaxation and
alone threw me into a productive haze, themselves. They even write a little story in productivity in a time where calm is scarce.
my eyes fixated on my computer screen as the comment section to set the mood for The only thing missing is the people — and
I furiously typed away at the essay I was the video. They have scenes like campfires, the iced coffee.
working on. cabins and, of course, coffee shops.
The rhythmic calm of a busy coffee I never thought I would find any kind
shop grounded me. It reminded me that of mental peace through the internet, but
18FASHION
A STORY ABOUT CONTROL
19 COULTURE MAGAZINE • CALMWRITTEN BY CLAY B. MORRIS | DESIGNED BY ZOE HAMBLEY
If Janet Jackson had named her 1986 Monsieur Dior and Cristóbal Balenciaga notoriously unforgiving in an industry
album, “Control”, “Calm” instead, who were alive and designing new looks for that is prone to error. Entry is predicated
knows if it would have sold more than women across the globe. Posen was in an upon perfection and the ability to churn
10 million copies worldwide. Control aesthetically separate lane from his peers, out history-making moments in quick
isn’t synonymous with calm, but that such as Nicholas Ghesquire, Phoebe Philo succession, yet it is ignorant to the fact
doesn’t mean the auras of the words and and Marc Jacobs. As these designers were that fashion’s infant tastemakers, writers
their accompanying effects aren’t at least creating markedly “modern” collections, and brands are competing with greyed
fraternal twins. a nostalgic focus was placed on Posen’s behemoths that have known nothing but
Examining control as indistinct from technical and design skills. His work success for the majority of their existence.
calm is exactly the lens that should be wasn’t necessarily anything new, but it Trying to compete with a major fashion
applied to understand the simultaneous was exciting because it showed respect for house is insurmountable if magazines
fluidity and rigidity the fashion industry fashion and a specific flavor of elegance. are too afraid to admit that a house’s last
has had since the 1980s. Anna Wintour, His clothes spoke to the control and calm collection was, well, terrible. Attempting to
the late Karl Lagerfeld and inescapable created in past decades that the world re-establish style as the center of fashion
fashion houses like Gucci, Christian recognized and would always crave. writing is hard if editors are unwilling to
Dior and Chanel are, to some, one and This doesn’t mean that history can’t place new (read: young) and diverse people
the same with fashion. These names be made in contemporary fashion — it’s in positions of power, or at minimum,
have situated themselves as the center simply a hard feat. Take the success break away from the hypnosis of their
of the industry’s cultural impression. A of Christopher John Rogers or Telfar outlet’s standard operating procedures.
closer look at the contributions of these Clemens, for example. Fashion’s dictators But it seems that the fashion industry
fashion houses and industry titans proves
that they are undeniably case studies of
the phrase “credit where credit is due.”
“WE MUST TURN TOWARD NEW
Wintour revolutionized magazines by
placing celebrities on covers, and Lagerfeld FACES TO SIT ATOP FASHION’S
LADDER AND FOSTER THE GROWTH
created the “designer as celebrity.” After
Wintour’s ascent to Editor-In-Chief at
OF NAMES CONSUMERS HAVE YET
American Vogue in 1988 and Lagerfeld’s
1983 appointment at Chanel, fashion
as a business became unwavering in its
deciding of the names that have dominated
the industry for almost as long as all
TO BE INTRODUCED TO.”
millennials and Generation Z have been know that it’s difficult to break into the feels that attempts to break away from
alive. Many attempts to create new legacy industry, and they go to great lengths to its control and repeated laudations of the
brands have sputtered or outright flopped keep it that way. These dictators, whether same figures, aesthetics and outlines are
— both Christian LaCroix and Fenty failed they be brand managers, editors or disrespectful or irreverent to the history
to take root as parts of LVMH, the biggest influencers, use fashion’s self-sufficient of fashion. In turn, that provides fashion
luxury fashion conglomerate. And the faces relationship with history as a way to with an unfortunately limiting capacity
of those who decide what we wear and gatekeep opportunities from those actively to expand its horizons and leads it down
why we wear it remain the same hue. Will designing, writing or even just interested in a road antithetical to fashion and away
fashion be able to find its way out of its fashion from being able to offer their much from creativity. If fashion is exciting, is
calm, yet controlling loop? needed insights and talents to the industry. powerful, is bold — like many magazine
The beginning of this inquiry requires We care about Vogue and Dior because covers claim — then it’s clear that what’s
an assessment of the position of history in they’ve conditioned us to respect them next in fashion is a clean cut away from the
fashion (hint: they’re inseparable). Fashion as institutions within the industry — not same names. We must turn toward new
is a circle ignorant of its own identity at because their contributions to fashion’s faces to sit atop fashion’s ladder and foster
times and thus calls of innovation and landscape have been repeatedly distinctive the growth of names consumers have yet
freshness in style and creation are, in or excellent. to be introduced to. What and who we
actuality, lapses in memory about a trend No one should expect a brand to know as fashion doesn’t have to fade away.
or cut of dress that was already widely get every shoe right every time, or a Fashion as history and history as fashion
beloved a decade or two prior. The fervor publication to always perfectly style a won’t let that happen. Instead, the industry
surrounding Zac Posen’s now closed cover star. But at the same time, the reason must become more open to experiencing
eponymous label and atelier in the early why there should be skepticism about change that is truly spontaneous and not
aughts was clearly a manifestation for style the chokehold that certain fixtures have pulled like a puppet behind a sheet with
addicts’ perennial love for the tailoring and on the stasis of the industry is because holes in it.
fabrics of couture’s brightest days, when these figures, brands and “leaders,” are
20PHOTOGRAPHED BY HELEN HONG | DESIGNED BY ANNIE RUDISILL
WRITTEN BY ALEX BERENFELD | MODELED BY AASHNA SHAH
With the residue of the pandemic settling brings an organic, energizing renewal of
a neutral color palette. We’ve seen a gradual shift away from quarantine tie-die sets and
neon accessories to muted beiges and camel tones. However, do not underestimate the
ability of these more understated colors. They have made appearances on runways and in
high-fashion editorial campaigns, making themselves adaptable to both fashion novices
and aficionados alike. Rich chocolate browns and crisp greens have earned their rightful
place next to our favorite neutrals in 2021’s spring and summer wardrobe.
This trend is readily embraced by all and justifiably so as it is gender and size
inclusive. Boasting versatility and endless combinations, this color palette allows you to
play with looks that are both sophisticated and eccentric. The green shades offer a fresh
tone to brown’s steadiness and comfort. Put together, one cannot help but feel more
grounded to their physical surroundings by appreciating the color scheme of nature’s
composition. It is a trend to try and a style to love.
21 COULTURE MAGAZINE • CALM22
Aashna wears a Kelly Green
trench dress from Gap and
carries a Shein crocodile
embossed brown purse.
23 COULTURE MAGAZINE • CALM24
Aashna wears her own
white satin top paired
with Nasty Gal brown faux
leather pants and tortoise
printed heels from Express.
25 COULTURE MAGAZINE • CALMA light brown sweater vest
(stylist’s own) is layered over
a sage green slip dress from
Missguided and white heels
from Express.
26Japanese
Americana
A Game of Telephone
WRITTEN BY MARGOT MIDKIFF | DESIGNED BY JAENY YOO
Have you ever played a game of for meals. According to the streetwear
telephone? It’s quite simple, and, in a way, boutique Bodega, this contrast in living
mimics how the American fashion industry situations created a perception that
warps Japanese style and vice versa. In anything American was the way for self-
order to play telephone, everyone sits in preservation. This variation resulted in
a circle and one person whispers a phrase Japanese youth adopting the American
to the person on their right. That phrase is lifestyle in any way that they could
then slowly passed around to everyone in — styling themselves in clothes that
the circle until it comes back to the person replicated those of American soldiers.
who originated it. Since each person is Some consider this moment to be the
only allowed to whisper the phrase once, beginning of Japanese Americana style.
the words are sometimes mistranslated. However, according to W. David Marx,
Ergo, when the final phrase is spoken author of “Ametora: How Japan Saved
aloud, more often than not, it differs from American Style,” the 1965 publication of
the initial phrase, but still has the original “Take Ivy” was the real catalyst for the
structure to it. creation of the style.
The Japanese and American fashion A printed collection of photographs
industries have been playing a game of taken from the campuses of America’s elite
telephone since 1945. colleges, “Take Ivy” illustrates the dark
During the American occupation of academia fashion of the Ivy League. Four
Japan post-World War II, U.S. soldiers Japanese sartorial-focused artists authored
patrolled the streets of Japan’s most the book, which became a fashion bible for
prominent cities. The bomber jackets, some Japanese men — containing candid
work boots and olive green attire of the photos spanning 1959 through 1965. The
American soldiers became symbolic within Ivy League style mirrored the fashion of
the changing country. While American distinguished figures like John F. Kennedy
soldiers were provided with many overseas and designers like Ralph Lauren.
resources, Japanese citizens struggled By the 1980s, Japanese menswear went
27 COULTURE MAGAZINE • CALMfull “ametora” — a Japanese term for close to death in December 2019, little and an interesting
traditional American style. did he know that three months after he imbalance.”
Now, you’re probably wondering how signed streetwear’s death certificate, Now, fast forward
on earth World War II and a random the COVID-19 pandemic would act as a to 2021 and a new wave
book published in defibrillator to jolt the style back to life. of deconstructionism
the 1960s relate Streetwear brands like A Bathing Ape and patchwork-styled
to the game of (BAPE) and Undercover are known for clothing is flooding
telephone. Well, their American-influenced, Japanese- the fashion scene.
remember how cultivated streetwear styles. Nowadays, London-based brand
in the game each with many people working from home, Jaded London’s
time the phrase is comfort has become a priority when patchwork denim
passed around it purchasing clothing. Thus, the common pants, with different
changes a little bit? consumer gravitates toward soft, screen squares of denim
With the Japanese printed t-shirts, high-quality sweatpants washes sewn together
adopting military and colorful, yet stylish hoodies. All creates a rugged piece
and preppy designs of these items can be found at BAPE of clothing that is
from the American and Undercover, as both brands utilize becoming increasingly
fashion industry, traditional methods of screen printing on popular amongst
brands in Japan their clothing. American youth.
decided to create Katagami is a Japanese screen printing Moreover, Jasmine
their own spin on technique that was invented in the eighth James’ American brand
these concepts. century. This art form involves making JJVintage has been
Japanese labels like detailed paper stencils for the purpose of deconstructing Nike
The Real McCoy’s dyeing textiles. shirts since 2018 and upcycling them into
started earning Originally, katagami was the primary corset-like silhouette tops that leave the
a reputation for method of producing kimonos. Over the hemline stitching visible and the patchwork
their high-quality centuries, this technique has evolved and exquisitely uneven.
designs inspired is now used by modern Japanese brands to Most American consumers that wear
by 1940s and 1950s produce clothing for the masses. these types of clothing are unaware of the
American fashion, Another technique originating cultural significance of the style or how
and, with time, what once was a staple of from Japan is deconstructionism. In Yamamoto and Kawakubo opened a door
American fashion became an archetype of 1981, designers Yohji Yamamoto and for many designers who were too afraid at
Japanese style. Rei Kawakubo revealed collections in the time to go against the status quo.
It wouldn’t be a fair game of telephone Paris featuring asymmetric clothes with Over the past 70 years, Japanese
if America was the only one to pass along a scissored hemlines, rips scattered through Americana fashion has evolved from
trend. In the early 2000s, menswear blogs the fabric and exposed stitching. At bomber jackets and preppy Ivy League
became popular in the U.S. With more men the time of their debut, Yamamoto and style to screen printed hoodies and
becoming fascinated with fashion, Google Kawakubo’s collections were considered deconstructed beauties. For a long time,
searches inquiring about the preppy, clean- risque compared to the polished clean- the foreign influence was a one-way
cut clothing of American style from the late cut work of other designers at the time. street — either the U.S. was passing
1950s through the mid 1960s increased and Kawakubo’s brand Comme des Garçons along a design to Japan or vice versa.
most of the brands that appeared at the top continues to challenge traditional concepts But now the two countries have ended
of those Google searches were Japanese of beauty by designing clothes that do not their game of telephone and collaborate
companies that produced American-style strictly line female bodies’ curves. openly. Hopefully, through the rekindling
clothing. Subsequently, the U.S. began In her book “The Japanese Fashion of Japanese Americana fashion, the
mass importing Japanese clothing in the Designers,” Bonnie English writes, “for overlapping histories of Japanese and
early 2000s. the Japanese, ‘deconstruction’ meant American style will be highlighted —
With the surge of clothing bearing the that seams did not just hold two pieces of making more people aware of the designers
coveted “Made in Japan” label in the U.S. fabric together, but when exposed, gave and events that built this singularly
over the past 20 years and both America energy and dynamism to the design, and modern style.
and Japan having their turn to inspire one asymmetrical points created movement
another, the fashion industry has come
into a new era. Once a game of telephone,
the relationship between the countries’
“ONCE A GAME OF TELEPHONE,
industries is now what Marx calls an “open
dialogue.” THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN
Building off designs from both Japan
and America, the modern world of fashion THE COUNTRIES’ INDUSTRIES IS
has initiated the resurgence of screen
printing and deconstructed clothing —
pieces that have become the new definition
NOW WHAT MARX CALLS AN ‘OPEN
of Japanese Americana. While Virgil Abloh,
an American designer, declared streetwear
DIALOGUE.’”
28The
Masculinization
of
MEAT
WRITTEN BY HENLEY YOUNTS | DESIGNED BY LILLIAN CLARK
29 COULTURE MAGAZINE • CALM“You don’t need as much protein as you strong; however, these connections can saying, “I’m way too hungry to settle for
think.” It was an innocent comment. Then, be counterproductive. The Washington chick food.” He seems fed up with his
all my guy friends immediately pounced. I Post wrote, “The deep-set belief could recent diet and wants to reclaim his primal,
hit a nerve. pose a serious threat to men’s health, as masculine need for meat. He gathers many
Protein is a touchy subject. There is research suggests that incorporating more more men on his way to Burger King to
much debate over how much we need plant-based proteins can improve health get his Double Whopper, starting a sort of
and where to get it. The Food and Drug revolution with one of their slogans being
Administration sets our recommended “Wave tofu bye-bye!”
daily allowances (RDAs), which outline the This commercial taps into a
necessary macronutrients for an average romanticized notion of the hunter-gatherer
American. For protein, these RDAs are stage in mankind’s evolution. Humans
56 grams for men and 46 grams for were separated into roles by their
women, and Americans typically biological genders: men went off
eat twice this amount. into the wild to hunt and kill
An accepted mentality animals, while women stayed
across the world is that back to pick berries and
people, especially those gather food from the land.
who want to be strong, The man’s job was deemed
need protein in the form more important and more
of meat. Carol J. Adams crucial to the survival of
unpacks this mindset mankind. Is that really the
in her landmark book case though? I would argue
“The Sexual Politics of the food the women were
Meat,” published in 1990. rounding up was just as
She discusses how meat crucial, if not more so.
is made to be masculine, This damaged
while “men who decide sexualization of meat
to eschew meat-eating are negatively affects women too.
deemed effeminate.” It puts a magnifying glass on
Think about going to Target women’s eating decisions and
around Father’s Day. What are basically gives them two options:
the suggested gifts for dad? Grilling be a dainty eater and order a salad
equipment. Although this has changed or be a “cool” girl and get a steak. This
a bit over time, grilling up a thick slab of hyper-awareness of food and body forces
meat used to be the only acceptable form women into very traditional gender roles.
of cooking for a man to do. I remember going to prom with my friend
Many people associate meat with being in Georgia — where prom is a very big
deal — and we went to dinner at a fancy
“PLANT-BASED steakhouse. I was so ready to order a big
steak, but, to my disappointment, every
PROTEINS, girl was ordering a salad. I succumbed
to the peer pressure and ate my puny
TOFU, salad while I watched my date devour
his steak. Why didn’t I just order a steak
too? I was afraid I’d seem mannish or
VEGETABLES, big. Ordering a steak would definitely not
make me these things, but that’s how it
SOY MEAT felt in my mind.
These perceptions are ridiculous, but
SUBSTITUTES, they are persistent. Even having come so
far in other areas of social progression,
ETC., ARE and lengthen one’s life.” Yet, plant-
there is still this archaic masculinization of
meat. It’s crucial for women to take back
FEMINIZED AND based proteins, tofu, vegetables, soy meat
substitutes, etc., are feminized and seen as
the power and eat what they want without
feeling like they need to appease a male
unable to fulfill one’s needs. audience.
SEEN AS UNABLE For example, a 2006 Burger King ad
for a Texas Double Whopper, “Manthem,”
TO FULFILL shows a man getting up from a date and
ONE’S NEEDS.”
30Wellness
Doesn’t Belong to
White People
WRITTEN BY NUPUR SHAH | DESIGNED BY ANNA THOMAS
31 COULTURE MAGAZINE • CALMAs a child, I’d often stumble down the Hindu, Buddhist, African and Indigenous higher purpose to many people throughout
stairs to find my grandfather in our living practices available to more people than its existence.
room, practicing “surya namaskar,” better ever. This is fantastic. As someone whose Yoga began in ancient India over 5,000
known as sun salutations, or taking forceful mental health has been completely years ago and was first written about in the
exhalations in “kappal bharati” to energize transformed by Hindu and Buddhist oldest sacred text of the Vedic tradition,
him for the day. My grandmother taught meditation practices, I understand how known today as Hinduism. Over thousands
me about pressure points in the body life-changing these wellness practices can of years, the practice was refined and
and the benefits of activating them, even be. changed, involving mental, spiritual and
leading me through my first meditation at
age eight, using her voice to guide me up
through the clouds in my imagination. I
“AS I BECAME INCREASINGLY
remember feeling weightless and knowing
that my joyful, healthy grandparents had to EMBARRASSED OF MY CULTURE,
be on to something.
Fast forward to my adolescence, MY PEERS EMBRACED EVERY
SPARKLY, WHITE-WASHED, PRE-
where I came to see the practice of yoga
and “namaste” shirts as something that
belonged to my white friends’ mothers
much more than they belonged to me. As
I became increasingly embarrassed of my
PACKAGED VERSION OF IT.”
culture, my peers embraced every sparkly, However, with the increasing physical aspects. What we call “yoga” in
white-washed, pre-packaged version of it. popularity of Eastern and Indigenous the West is actually Hatha Yoga, a form
It was a time when hot yoga reigned, traditions has also come the erasure of of yoga focused on a mix of postures,
and Lululemon made billions of dollars thousands of years of history and cultural breathing and spiritual exercises.
selling “yoga clothes” to wealthy white practices. White people have become the Yoga made an entrance in the West
women, employing overwhelmingly white spokespeople for spirituality and wellness when Swami Vivekananda, a Hindu monk,
models. SoulCycle brought mindfulness to in the West, bulldozing the integrity spoke at the Parliament of the World’s
the lives of affluent Americans. More and of sacred practices in the process and Religions in 1893 in Chicago on behalf
more people began using ghee, a traditional overlooking their backgrounds entirely. of Hinduism. He spoke of yoga’s power
Indian butter, in their cooking when these There are so many cultural practices and encouraged a sense of universality
same people twisted their nose when I currently being hijacked, but for the sake of within religious practices, uniting and
brought Indian food as my school lunch. brevity, I’ll give the background of a select empowering his audience.
It made me angry, even then. But I few which have entertained a particularly Today, almost everyone I know has
found myself rationalizing and excusing large amount of popularity. tried yoga at least once. Yoga classes are
the offensive actions of white people, available at most gyms and yoga studios,
just so neither they nor I had to face the PRACTICING YOGA apparel and fitness programs are a growing,
discomfort they’d caused. At the time, it multi-billion dollar industry in the United
seemed easier to turn a blind eye than to In its most literal form, the word States. Famously, Gwyneth Paltrow has
hold space and create an opportunity for “yoga,” in Sanskrit, means “to unite.” taken credit for the popularization of yoga,
others to show their prejudices in a more While this is in reference to yoga’s core which most everyone can disagree with.
direct, hostile way. purpose — to unite mind, spirit and body (Warning: this will not be the last time I
Now, a new movement for wellness — yoga has been a source of unity and call out Gwyneth Paltrow in this article.)
and spirituality has made a wide variety of
32Kabat-Zinn introduced a stress reduction to grow the plant.
program called Mindfulness-Based The entire concept of commodifying
Stress Reduction (MBSR). This program prayer by buying and selling sage goes
integrated Buddhist mindfulness practices against Indigenous beliefs and benefits
with Western science and inspired the capitalistic structures profiting off of native
creation of Mindfulness-Based Cognitive tradition. Indigenous people believe energy
Therapy (MBCR), which aids those is fragile, and each bundle of sage absorbs
suffering with depression. the energy of anyone who comes in contact
Mindfulness exercises have since with it, thereby exposing you to the energy
become commonplace to benefit mental of every unknown person who touched it
health and are generally seen as completely when you burn it in your home.
secular. Few people recognize or explore Buying sage at the store causes more
the Buddhist origins of their daily problems than it’s worth and contributes
As yoga has been popularized, it meditation, breathwork and exercises. to a cycle of oppressing and, subsequently,
has become synonymous with wealth, In this, practitioners of mindfulness are profiting off of Native people. If you’d like
whiteness and oftentimes, femininity. This failing to access the wealth of teachings to burn sage, do your research on what
has led to the erasure of the culture and about psychology and mental health the practice actually means, and recognize
figures behind yoga, also opening the door present in Buddhism and limiting your privilege in being able to do it freely.
for the corruption of its practice. themselves to one aspect of Buddhism,
Yoga in America is distilled to remove brought to use by a Western doctor. LAW OF ATTRACTION AND
its Hindu elements, with terms like
MANIFESTATION
“vrikshasana” being renamed to “tree SAGE CLEANSING
pose,” and many of the more spiritual The concept of manifestation has
aspects of yoga being repackaged to Most everyone reading this will agree skyrocketed in popularity recently. As
appeal to the masses. In actuality, that wearing feathered headdresses and more people embrace it, social media
Hinduism is a philosophy and lifestyle using Indigenous people as mascots is manifestation exercises only seem to grow
rather than a religion; it encompasses cultural appropriation, but what about sillier and further from the original idea
tremendous diversity of thought and is burning sage? White sage is an important behind this practice.
practiced differently all over the Indian component of Indigenous medicine and The Law of Attraction stems from
subcontinent. Therefore, anyone is ceremony, treating a variety of ailments the Hindu concept of universal cosmic
welcome to practice and take inspiration and serving as an important aspect of energy and the idea that the energy you
from parts of Hinduism. As a member prayer. put out in the world is the same energy
of the tradition, however, I believe it’s To Indigenous people, sage is more you attract. Simply put, this suggests that
important to respect the practice and the than a “witchy” way to cleanse space. It you can manifest positive things into your
culture it comes from. That means not is a sacrament and a piece of culture that life simply by making yourself open to
altering it to avoid acknowledging one’s can be dated back thousands of years. receiving them. In theory, it sounds perfect
interaction with different religious beliefs. In the United States, Indigenous people and easy, but manifestation is more than
were legally barred from using sage until lighting a candle and writing your wish
MINDFULNESS as recently as 1978, as part of a systematic over repeatedly in a journal.
effort to erase Indigenous culture. If these rituals help you practice setting
While mindfulness practices exist in Now, when Indigenous people can intentions and preparing yourself to
every major religion, both Eastern and finally practice this tradition again, trendy receive, do them, by all means. But please
Western, the mindfulness meditations high-end companies such as Urban be sure to recognize that your practice
that gained recent popularity in Western Outfitters, Free People, Anthropologie and comes from ancient religious and spiritual
society come primarily from Hindu and Sephora have been buying up and selling beliefs, warranting respect and sensitivity.
Buddhist traditions. Yoga and mindfulness sage to a predominantly white audience. Don’t fool yourself into believing that the
practices are often intertwined, and the This has created shortages and drastic purchase of a $200 “manifestation kit”
philosophy is a fundamental part of Hindu overharvesting of the plant, leading to an from Goop is going to bring any happiness
and Buddhist ideologies. entire illegal market for sage. into your life. (I told you I wasn’t done
According to welldoing.org, In Indigenous traditions, there is an with Gwyneth).
mindfulness as we know and practice it understanding that you must leave some Ultimately, all people have the ability
in the West today can be traced to Dr. sage to allow the plant to continue to and right to pursue whatever practices
Jon Kabat-Zinn, a professor who studied grow. In the hasty appropriation of their bring physical and spiritual wellness into
mindfulness in the Buddhist tradition culture, non-Indigenous harvesters have their lives. While I can’t speak for all
under several teachers. In the late 1970s, permanently stripped fields of their ability people within marginalized communities,
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