The art and architecture of Tiong Bahru - URA
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S K Y L I N E ///// J U L . AU G 2 0 1 3 07 The art and architecture of Tiong Bahru The architecture and artistic residents of Tiong Bahru are both symbols of Singapore’s cultural past and directions to the neighbourhood’s future.
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“I don’t see it,” I said after studying the The architecture
Dancing Girl sculpture for the better part
of a minute.
If you were to take a stroll down the
streets of Tiong Bahru today, the
No matter how intently I stared, I just
first thing that strikes you will be the
could not decipher the artistic puzzle
houses – these days, they do not build
before my eyes. All I see is a concrete
houses like that anymore.
swan on a pedestal, but where was
the girl?
The estate was one of the first
public housing projects in Singapore.
Dr Kevin Tan, former President of the
Constructed by the Singapore
Singapore Heritage Society and my tour
Improvement Trust (SIT) in the 1930s,
guide for the day, pointed eagerly at the
the buildings were heavily inspired by
tip of the sculpture. “See, there? That’s
“Streamline Moderne”, a minimalistic
her arm, and she’s holding a fan. That at
architectural style hallmarked by simple,
the bottom, you see? That’s the pleated
functional lines.
skirt, and she’s doing a harvest dance.”
“The architecture that proliferates in
Oh, I thought to myself, as my eyes
magazines today is called ‘Dramatic
squinted under the blazing sun.
Architecture,’” explained Mr Choo Meng
There she is.
Foo, an independent consultant with 20
years of experience in architectural and
The girl urban planning works in Asia. “These
‘Dramatic Architectures’ tend towards
The Dancing Girl is the work of the late decadence and weakness as it arouses
Lim Nang Sang, the same man behind the senses to the most extreme. Many
the Merlion sculpture. When Seng Poh architectural designs these days are like
Garden was conceived in 1972, Ch’ng Jit that, but not Tiong Bahru.”
Koon, then a Member of Parliament for
Tiong Bahru and a former resident of The pre-war buildings in Tiong Bahru
the neighbourhood, wanted the garden were greatly inspired by the industrial
to be given greater prominence. Mr Lim age of the 1920s. “Back then, if you
sculpted the 1.2 metre-high sculpture, were able to drive a car, take a plane
which in turn became Tiong Bahru’s very or a cruise, you were on the cutting
first piece of public art. edge,” explained Dr Tan. “As such,
buildings here were designed to look like
Till today, the sculpture remains the automobiles, trains, ocean liners
estate’s only piece of public sculpture. and airplanes.”
How then did Tiong Bahru lend itself to
the name “Hollywood of Singapore”? On a closer look, you will notice the
nautical elements built into the residential
Art in Tiong Bahru, Dr Tan said, goes houses, such as the rounded windows,
beyond just a concrete statue. The estate’s which resemble portholes; and the clean,
architecture and residents are its most curved corners that resemble the bridge
visible and impressive public art works of a ship. In fact, blocks 81 and 82 are
yet, he asserted. known to the locals as the “aeroplane
blocks,” because the elongated layout of
the buildings resembles the wings of
an airplane.
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However, the houses in Tiong Bahru are neighbourhood an air of sophistication lease of life into the neighbourhood. Mr
not all form and no function. For one, and creative freedom. Choo believes that this phenomenon will
their adaptation of the five-foot ways continue to persist as long as the estate
in shophouses allows people to move Perhaps one of the estate’s most famous exists. “I foresee [Tiong Bahru] growing
between buildings with ease and creates residents was Mr Heng Kim Ching, into a place for artists, both local and
public spaces to meet neighbours and better known by his stage name, Wang international, to congregate and exchange
build relationships. Ventilation air wells Sar. Mr Heng was one half of the highly ideas. Perhaps, in the future, it can
were also built into the structure of successful comedic duo Wang Sar and Ye become a place that supports artists and
the buildings to improve air circulation Fong (sometimes known as Ah Pui and their works. There should be a new form
and temperature regulation. The unique Ah San), who were based on characters of art spaces inserted into Tiong Bahru,
green-coloured glass windows also help from Old Master Q comic books. Their which can in turn encourage creativity
to reduce glares from the tropical sun. standup comedy routines featured a and sustainability.”
In fact, Tiong Bahru was also the first hilarious mix of banters in Teo Chew,
neighbourhood in Singapore to have Hokkien, Cantonese, Malay and English, The reminder
proper sanitation. and were immensely popular at that time.
Even with the migration of these new
The combination of form and function, The Quests, a popular homegrown band
establishments into Tiong Bahru, the
according to Dr Tan, is an art in in the 1960s, comprised four teenagers
estate’s architecture and artistic history
itself. “You need two things for good who had been neighbours in Tiong
will continue to serve as reminders of
architecture,” he explained. “One, you Bahru. Aside from covering popular
the neighbourhood’s vibrant past; a time
need the absence of overly restraining American and British hit-makers, the
when art was created, nurtured and set
rules. Two, you need architects and band also wrote, performed and recorded
free. Heritage trails organised by the
developers who are willing to work many original songs in their heyday.
National Heritage Board and other non-
against tried and tested formulae.” These Today, the band’s legacy continues, and
profit groups, continue to bring younger
factors, according to Dr Tan, are the many local musicians consider it to be
members of the society through the
reasons why Tiong Bahru continues to be Singapore’s answer to The Beatles.
streets of Tiong Bahru, reminding them
one of the most beautiful estates in the
of the life that was.
city-state. In recent years, Tiong Bahru has
experienced an artistic renaissance.
Dr Tan aptly compared Tiong Bahru to
The artists Just last year, OH! Open House had
a pair of sports trainers: “If you don’t
held its annual art walkabout in Tiong
wear them, the shoes will fall apart after
While there is no denying that the Bahru – over two weekends, 15 artists
some time. Buildings are funny that way,
“Streamline Moderne” architecture gave had transformed six homes in the estate
too. If people don’t live in them, they
Tiong Bahru a veil of glamour, it was into their artistic spaces. Meanwhile,
will collapse.”
the people living behind that veil who establishments such as White Canvas
really imbued the estate with artistic and Gallery and The Orange Thimble (a café
cultural significance. Mr Choo explained that frequently holds art exhibitions) By Chin Wei Lien
it best when he said: “No place stays attract a younger, more artistic crowd.
the same forever. Each one adapts and
changes according to the times and Undoubtedly, Tiong Bahru has changed
its users.” dramatically over the years. Gone are the
textile vendors on the streets and the old
Throughout its history, Tiong Bahru wanton noodle store around the corner.
has attracted many well-known literary However, the recent influx of designers, This article was first published in Going Places Singapore,
an online magazine about appreciating our city anew.
and artistic personalities, giving the artists and writers has brought a new Visit www.goingplacessingapore.sg for more stories.
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Tiong Bahru is well-loved by many Singaporeans and increasingly, overseas visitors as well. While the estate is more known for its lively café culture and local goodies at the Tiong Bahru Market & Food Centre, many of us are drawn to its unique architecture and streetscape. Twenty blocks of pre-war flats and 36 units of shophouses were conserved by URA in 2003 so that Tiong Bahru can continue to evolve with the assurance that the identity and charm of the area will be kept. Take a quick stroll with us as we point out to you the estate’s “Dancing Girl”, “aeroplane blocks” and more!
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