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TOURING                  TOURISM MAGAZINE

& HERITAGE
                           BURGUNDY-FRANCHE-COMTÉ

                                                    DISCOVER I ADMIRE I FEEL

FAMOUS       TRIPS OUT         CITY WALKS
SIGNATURES   INTO NATURE
TOURING HERITAGE - Bourgogne-Franche-Comté ...
CONTENTS
      ❙ 04
      Burgundy-Franche-Comté
      takes you on journeys

      ❙ 06
      UNESCO, 8 properties listed
      as World Heritage

      ❙ 11
      Destination Dijon
                                                                    18
                                                                    "I feel at home in Belfort"
      ❙ 12
      For city walks, follow the guide!

      ❙ 14                                ❙ 44                             ❙ 58
      In the footsteps of Vauban          10 wonderful ideas for trips     It’s child’s play
                                          out into nature
      ❙ 15                                in Burgundy-Franche-Comté        ❙ 60
      Rebellious and daring Besançon                                       What if we went to the château…
                                          ❙ 47                             on foot, on horseback, by bike or
                                          Rebels & Resistance              by boat?
      ❙ 16
      Town bikes / Country bikes
                                          ❙ 48                             ❙ 62
      ❙ 18                                It’s made just for you!          (Doing) Burgundy-Franche-Comté
      «I feel at home in Belfort»
                                          ❙ 52                             ❙ 63
      ❙ 20                                Everybody outside!               Travelling to Burgundy-Franche-
      Famous Signatures                                                    Comté

      ❙ 30
      The Haute-Saône, 3 destinations

      ❙ 33
      The joy of boating

      ❙ 34
      Heritage at the water’s edge

      ❙ 38
      In the saddle with the wind
      in your hair

      ❙ 40
      A quest for spirituality
                                          ❙ 54
      ❙ 42                                A workout for your muscles and
      Cultivating wellbeing               your mind

      ❙ 43                                ❙ 56
      Head out into nature                One big open-air history book

I 2
TOURING HERITAGE - Bourgogne-Franche-Comté ...
16
                                                                                       For a weekend, a week or longer (it’s your choice), prepare your escapade
                                                                                       in Burgundy-Franche-Comté, a land on a human scale that really gets your
                                                                                       mind and body moving. In these pages, find inspiration for your break. And

                     Town                                                              if you are still torn between nature and culture, not to worry: everything
                                                                                       comes together here. More than perfect ;-)

                     bikes /                                                           A bit of advice if you want to get the measure of the destination: open
                                                                                       your eyes and put your senses on high alert. Sporty or contemplative,
                     Country                                                           here adventure is everywhere; at a monument, on a street, in a forest or
                                                                                       along a path.
                     bikes
                                                                                       All that remains is for you to pack your suitcase.
                                                                                       Some things you may need to pack in order to make the most of Burgundy-
                                                                                       Franche-Comté:
                                                                                       - Comfortable shoes, because whether in the city or out in nature, you
                                                                                       often see the best things whilst on foot.
                                                                                       - A camera or smartphone to take pictures and share them. But remember
                                                                                       that the most important thing is to enjoy the moment without the filter of
                                                                                       a screen. So make sure to feast your eyes.
                                                                                       - A travelling companion; this could be a lover, a few kids, your parents,
                                                                                       a brother or sister, one or more friends that are particularly dear to you.
                                                                                       The most important thing about any journey is sharing it with someone
                                                                                       you love.
                                                                                       - A notebook and pencils to jot down, sketch, collect and remember in a
                                                                                       different way.
                                                                                       - Sunglasses and clothing that is appropriate to the season and to
                                                                                       your needs. Whether skiing, snow-shoeing, walking, biking, sailing,
                                                                                       touring, attending concerts, visiting markets or museums, lounging
                                                                                       around, partying, shopping, discovering, trekking, jogging, recharging
                                                                                       the batteries, finding yourself, exploring, horse riding, tasting, travelling
                                                                                       through time, enjoying the very latest trends…

30
                                                                                       In summary, pack a suitcase that reflects you and us. But don’t panic:
                                                                                       anything you may have forgotten, we are sure to have it here.

The Haute-Saône,                                                                       So, ready to go?

3 destinations
                                                                                       MORE INFORMATION:
                                                                                       heritage.bourgognefranchecomte.com
                                                                                       en.bourgognefranchecomte.com/touring-holidays/

     Magazine published by Burgundy-Franche-Comté Tourism • en.bourgognefranchecomte.com • With the financial support of the Burgundy-Franche-Comté Regional Council • Publishing Editor: Loïc
     Niepceron • Concept and design: Burgundy-Franche-Comté Tourism • Editor: Anne Chauveau - Carine Dufay • Printed by: Imprimerie Vincent (37) • ISSN : 2606-040 X • Photo credits: Alain Doire / Bourgogne-
     Franche-Comté Tourisme - Montagnes du Jura - Montagnes du Jura / Benjamin Becker - Maxime Coquard et Elisa Detrey (Bestjobers) - Office de tourisme d’Ornans / Vincent Becque - Cristallerie La Rochère
     - Michel Joly - Laurent Cheviet - Régis Antoine - Château d’Ancy-le-Franc - Les Canalous - MTCC / Yves Goux - Sandrine Baverel - Maison du Tourisme de Belfort / Philippe Mercier - Jean Becker - Maison du
     Tourisme de Belfort / Philippe Martin - Les Eurockéennes de Belfort - Entrevues - Denis Bringard - Infra / Massif des Vosges - Office de tourisme Luxeuil-les-Bains - Guillaume Perret - Nath Michel / Communauté
     de communes de la Station des Rousses - Vilac - Musée des Maisons Comtoises de Nancray - Fromageries Marcel Petite - Jura Tourisme / Audrey Dénégnan - Musée de la Lunette / Benjamin Becker - MTCC /
     Ecomusée du Pays de la Cérise - Abbaye de Fontenay - Musée de l'Abbaye / Jean-Marc Baudet - ThermaSalina - David Lefrenc - Jean-Pierre Corneveau - Creusot Montceau Tourisme - Olivier Tisserand - Auréline
     Ibanez - Guillaume Robert-Famy - Guédelon - DR.• Illustration on page 33 and 44 : Mélanie Masson • All information contained in this magazine were verified as of 15/12/2019, Burgundy-Franche-Comté
     Tourism cannot be held responsible for any changes or modifications made to this information since that date..

                                                                                                                                                                                                                 I 3
TOURING HERITAGE - Bourgogne-Franche-Comté ...
GO WITH YOUR INSTINCT
      THE JURA MOUNTAINS, THE OTHER SIDE OF THE MOUNTAIN

                                                           THE VOSGES MASSIF
                                                           A THOUSAND AND ONE DISCOVERIES

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TOURING HERITAGE - Bourgogne-Franche-Comté ...
BURGUNDY-
                                                FRANCHE-COMTÉ
                                                TAKES YOU ON
                                                JOURNEYS
                                                Enjoying wonderful encounters, being
                                                astonished, discovering and creating
                                                memories; that’s what so special about
                                                journeys. No need to travel to the ends of
                                                the Earth! Here’s the proof.

                                                Along a raging river, on the shaded
                                                esplanade of a Roman basilica or on
                                                the quaysides of a lively town; atop a
                                                mountainous summit, along a winding
                                                woodland trail, in a wine producer’s cellar
                                                or on a steep narrow street that climbs
                                                to an impregnable citadel; seated at the
                                                bar in a village bistro or at table in a chic
                                                restaurant: Burgundy- Franche-Comté
                                                provides countless places and moments of
                                                pure emotion.
EVERYONE HAS A GOOD REASON TO VISIT BURGUNDY.
                                                The emotion of the mountains, for instance,
BURGUNDY INVENTS A NEW TYPE OF WEEKENDS.
                                                on the Vosges Massif or Jura Mountains,
                                                two exceptional destinations for lovers of
                                                nature, authenticity, fresh air, green spaces
                                                and even a winter snowfall.
                                                At their feet stretch lands of great diversity
                                                that also combine all the elements that
                                                make life so sweet. In Burgundy-Franche-
                                                Comté, take time to enjoy the spirit of
                                                the countryside to the full. Created in the
                                                image of Burgundy is a concentration of
                                                cultural, historic and natural heritage sites
                                                that illuminate France. So much so that
                                                a brand was established to define these
                                                simple, generous and authentic pleasures:
                                                Designed by Bourgogne.

                                                Heritage jewels, wonderful encounters and
                                                the good life are waiting to be enjoyed.
                                                Your journeys start here.

                                                www.burgundy-tourism.com
                                                www.massif-des-vosges.com
                                                www.montagnes-du-jura.fr/en/

                                                                                                 I 5
TOURING HERITAGE - Bourgogne-Franche-Comté ...
UNESCO DISTINGUISHING THE ESSENTIEL

                                                                                                                    THE BASILICA AND HILL
                                                                                                                    OF VÉZELAY

                    UNESCO                                                                                          -
                                                                                                                    Established in the IX Century, the
                                                                                                                    Benedictine monastery acquired the relics
                                                                                                                    of Saint Mary Magdalen and became
                                                                                                                    a hotspot for pilgrims. Saint Bernard
                                                                                                                    preached the second crusade here in
                                                                                                                    1146, whilst Richard the Lionheart and
                       AS WORLD                                                                                     Philip II met here on the way to the third
                                                                                                                    crusade in 1190. Emerging from the verdant

                       HERITAGE
                                                                                                                    surrounding countryside, the basilica of
                                                                                                                    Sainte-Madeleine, a monastic church of
                                                                                                                    the XII Century, is a true masterpiece of
                                                                                                                    Burgundian Romanesque art. A building
                                                                                                                    of skilfully crafted blonde stone, it proudly
                                                                                                                    displays its glorious past.
                                                                                                                    Listed since 1979.

      Heirs to a prestigious past and to the prodigious links between mankind and the
      land, the 8 properties across Burgundy-Franche-Comté * that appear on UNESCO’s
      World Heritage list constitute an exceptional cultural and natural heritage, one
      that is irreplaceable and of universal value. Due to their historical significance
      and inspirational qualities, these are truly extraordinary sites. Religious, industrial,
      archaeological, wine producing, architectural; there are so many sites to see,
      experience, discover, understand and admire so that we may better preserve them
      and safeguard them for future generations.

      * In 2019, France boasted 44 properties on the UNESCO World Heritage list, including 8 in Burgundy-Franche-
      Comté.

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TOURING HERITAGE - Bourgogne-Franche-Comté ...
THE GREAT SALTWORKS OF SALINS-LES-BAINS
AT THE ROYAL SALTWORKS OF ARC-ET-SENANS

THE GREAT SALTWORKS
OF SALINS-LES-BAINS
-
From below ground in the Jura there
emerged and flowed sources of salt water,
a precious treasure as, at that time, salt
(White Gold) was the only means of
preserving food. This fabulous resource was
born 1200 years ago at the Great Saltworks
of Salins-les-Bains. The extraction wells, the
underground gallery, the imposing machinery
for pumping brine that is still operational and
the last salt pans in France provide evidence
of intense industry from the Middle Ages
onwards. From 1775, a saumoduc canal
stretching for around twenty kilometres
pumped brine to the Royal Saltworks of Arc-
et-Senans built by Ledoux. The history of the
two sites was thus united.
Listed since 2009.

                                                  THE ROYAL SALTWORKS
                                                  OF ARC-ET-SENANS
                                                  -
                                                  Set on the banks of the River Loue and
                                                  flanked by the immense forest of Chaux,
                                                  this plant was devoted to boiling brine, salt
                                                  water that arrived on site via a Saumoduc
                                                  canal from the extraction site at Salins
                                                  around twenty kilometres away. The
                                                  building, spectacular and remarkable, is
                                                  evidence of industrial architecture during
                                                  the Age of Enlightenment. In 1774, Louis
                                                  XV commissioned Claude Nicolas Ledoux
                                                  to build a factory here on the principle of
                                                  a factory-palace: a semi-circular temple of
                                                  industry around which 11 other buildings
                                                  would be arranged: sites of work and of life
                                                  for the director, the workers and their entire
                                                  families. Listed since 1982.

                                                                                                   I 7
TOURING HERITAGE - Bourgogne-Franche-Comté ...
UNESCO DISTINGUISHING THE ESSENTIEL

                                        THE CITADEL AND
                                        FORTIFICATIONS OF BESANÇON
                                        -
                                        Among the 12 exemplary fortified sites
                                        erected by Sébastien Le Prestre de
                                        Vauban (1633-1707) all along the French
                                        border, there stands the citadel and the
                                        fortifications of Besançon. The military
                                        architect of Louis XIV built a defensive
                                        system here that played a major role in
                                        the military strategy of the square and
                                        marked the identity of the entire town.
                                        Perched 100m up overlooking the town
                                        and stretching for nearly 12 hectares,
                                        the Citadel currently houses 3 Musées de
                                        France museums, including a zoological
                                        park. Listed since 2008 in the context of
                                        the major sites of Vauban.

THE PRIORY CHURCH OF
NOTRE-DAME IN
LA CHARITÉ-SUR-LOIRE
-
Founded in 1059, this priory was
modified in the XII Century and was
a dependency of the powerful Cluny
Abbey. The development of the order
and of the priory itself is evidenced
by the grandeur and richness of its
decor.
Listed since 1998 in the context of
the Ways of St James.

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TOURING HERITAGE - Bourgogne-Franche-Comté ...
THE CISTERCIAN ABBEY
                                             OF FONTENAY
                                             -
                                             Founded in 1118 by Saint Bernard, Fontenay
                                             Abbey displays sober and stripped back
                                             architecture across an incredibly fine
                                             ensemble of buildings including, among
                                             others, a church, a cloister, a dormitory,
                                             a capitular hall, a scriptorium, a boiler
                                             room and a forge. This reflects an ideal
                                             of self-sufficiency practiced by the first
                                             communities of Cistercian monks. The
                                             centuries may have passed but the site,
                                             in the heart of nature and remarkably well-
                                             preserved, still exudes an atmosphere of
                                             serenity and plenitude. The gardens (listed
                                             as Remarkable Gardens) add to the beauty
                                             and magic of this timeless site.
                                             Listed since 1981.

THE CLIMATS OF BURGUNDY
-
A veritable natural mosaic, the Climats
are vineyard plots that have been
precisely drawn out on the hillsides
of Nuits-Saint-Georges and Beaune.
They boast very specific natural
conditions (geology, exposure) and
were carved out by the people of the
Middle Ages in order to cultivate vines.
Every individual plot produces a wine
that presents highly identifiable and
particular organoleptic characteristics.
The cultural landscape determined by
the Climats of Burgundy is made up of
vineyard plots, wine-growing villages
and the town of Beaune on the side, and
the historic centre of Dijon on the other.
Listed since 2015.

                                                                                       I 9
TOURING HERITAGE - Bourgogne-Franche-Comté ...
UNESCO DISTINGUISHING THE ESSENTIEL

                                       LE CORBUSIER :
                                       THE CHAPEL OF
                                       NOTRE-DAME-DU-HAUT
                                       -
                                       This is a strange white edifice crafted
                                       from a single sheet of rough concrete
                                       whose silhouette emerges out of the
                                       Vosges du Sud, a majestic masterpiece
                                       by Le Corbusier. The Chapel of Ronchamp
                                       features a monument of religious
                                       architecture that is among the most
                                       illustrious in the world. The gatehouse and
                                       the convent of the Poor Claires designed
                                       by Renzo Piano further enhance its
                                       architectural significance.
                                       Listed since 2016.

THE PREHISTORIC PILE
DWELLINGS OF CHALAIN
AND CLAIRVAUX
-
These houses built on stilts
between 5000 and 500 B.C. around
the Jura lakes of Chalain and
Clairvaux are listed as part of the
Prehistoric Pile Dwellings around
the Alps alongside 109 other sites
across Europe.

I 10
DIJON       SAVOUR YOUR CITY-BREAK

                                                        DESTINATION DIJON
                                              The epicentre of Dijon, City of the Dukes of Burgundy, has become the capital
                                              of the new region of Burgundy-Franche-Comté. It is therefore a capital
                                              city, and not simply in the administrative sense, for Dijon is also capital of
                                              gastronomy and good living.

                                              Lift your gaze and look around: along every
                                              street, in every square, behind every ornate
                                              gateway, the city still bears the living traces of
                                              its rich and fascinating past. Ducal palace, half-
                                              timbered houses, mansion houses, delicate            THE MUSEUM
                                              façades, secret gardens, gargoyles and bell          OF FINE-ARTS
                                              towers, Dijon elegantly combines architectural
                                                                                                   More than 50 rooms dedicated to the
                                              wonders and discrete charms. This exceptional
                                                                                                   permanent collection and to temporary
                                              heritage forms the harmonious ensemble of a          exhibitions, 1500 works from Antiquity to
                                              city where life is both gentle and intense, a city   the XXI Century...The modern-day version
                                              that is perfectly in step with its time.             of the Museum of Fine-Arts of Dijon, was
                                               Here we stand on the threshold of one of the        finally revealed: this exceptional project
                                                                                                   was fully unveiled in May 2019 following
                                               most prestigious wine regions in the world
                                                                                                   ten years of major works. Fortunately,
                                               and of the Climats of Burgundy that have
                                                                                                   during its transformation, the museum
                                               recently been granted World Heritage status by      remained open to the public who were still
                                               UNESCO. This wine producing and gastronomic         able to come and admire the tombs of the
                                               identity defines the entire city. Unpretentiously   Dukes of Burgundy, the undisputed stars of
and joyfully, the streets and alleyways are lined with cute bistros, traditional brasseries,       this collection. Housed within the Palace
original eateries and Michelin star restaurants. From the stalls of the covered market to the      of the Dukes and the State of Burgundy,
counters of the wine bars, here we share the exquisite art of good living with one and all. The    along with the Louvre it remains the only
full character of the prestigious neighbouring vineyards is expressed in every glass of wine.      major art museum in France to be housed
At table, traditional eggs en meurette, parsley ham, escargots, Burgundy truffles, cheeses         within a city palace, here in the heart
from Cîteaux, Epoisses or Soumaintrain and other delicacies of Burgundy featuring grain            of a town centre that is well-preserved,
mustard or Marc de Bourgogne grapes sit confidently alongside ultra-contemporary cuisine.          pedestrianised and constitutes one of the
This cuisine is often born from faraway inspirations that daring chefs combine with their own      largest preservation areas in France.
Burgundian roots with perfect mastery. This gourmet and authentic ambiance stretches out
onto the terrace cafés of the well-preserved city centre and is subtly transmitted to passers-
by. Here we are overtaken by an irresistible urge to wander, so that we may drink in the decor
and the ambiance. Concerts, exhibitions, festivals, whether intimate or on a grand scale;
more than ever, Dijon is alive.

                                                                                                                                        I 11
WALK    ALONG THE RIGHT PATH

                     For city walks,
                     follow the guide!
                                                                                                               BESANÇON AND ITS CITADEL

                 Walking with senses
                 awakened, capturing
         fragments of history as you
           turn a corner, discovering    Follow the cat!
             a hidden garden: at their   The one that Marcel Aymé features in his stories. He leads us through the streets and alleys
                                         that surround the collegiate church of Notre-Dame de Dole, via a circuit of 35 stages: the
        heart or a stone’s throw from    Chat Perché Trail. Just like him, we rediscover our wild instincts and head into the immense
            the towns lies a different   forest of Chaux on the doorstep of the town. Much to the annoyance of our feline friend
           way to enjoy walking and      who dislikes water, Dole is the meeting point of the Doubs and Loue rivers. The Île du Girard
             discovering the intimate    celebrates this union with a National Nature Reserve covering 135 ha. The site is home to
                                         120 different types of bird and 400 plant species.
                heritage of Burgundy-
        Franche-Comté. On foot, you
         can set the pace and define     A green loop and beyond
             your own points of view.    Nestling in a meander of the River Doubs, Besançon boasts every shade of green. Gardens
                                         that are secret or well-known, parks, promenades, tree-lined quaysides, walking trails (more
             Wear comfortable shoes      than 200km!), nature sites: the leading green city in France is also the French Capital of
          and choose your décor and      Biodiversity. Along 3 sign-posted trails you are guided along as you explore the city and
         history as you follow quills,   experience the streets of the Comtois capital from a different angle. A short hop from the
              winged and four-legged     centre you can explore the Saône Marsh, the amazing karst features of the Osselle Grotto
                                         and Gouffre de Poudrey or even the open-air museum of Nancray, its biotopes and themed
           signposts that often guide
                                         gardens.
                   these urban walks.
                                         Along the waterways and across the vineyards
                                         The guiding thread that leads you on some wonderful walks, the River Saône stretches into
                                         the very heart of Chalon-sur-Saône. The Town of Art and History can be explored via the
                                         Orbandale Trail: towers, turrets, half-timbered houses, fortifications and the magnificent
                                         Saint-Vincent Cathedral. The town and its suburbs fade away and the voyage continues

I 12
along the waterway. Very well connected to the River Saône, 1200km of Burgundian
canals stretch out to the delight of pleasure boaters. Back on dry land, on foot or by
bike, you can wander along the towpaths. From there, the surrounding hills are carved
                                                                                             DOLE
out into lines of vineyards to provide other gourmet and wine discoveries. Top tip:
stumble upon a wine-producing village by looking out for the very handy Vignobles et
Découvertes label.

From the cat to Marcel
The notion of overlooking beauty is perfect for Joigny, the place where Marcel Aymé
was actually born. Between the banks of the Yonne and the extremely verdant Othe                All roads lead to…
Plateau, the hillside vineyards of Joigny are sheltered from the north wind and nurtured
by a microclimate. In total, 55 ha of vineyards stretch across the chalky soil of the           Nevers!
commune of Joigny, including 13 ha of the famous Côte-Saint-Jacques. Just a few
                                                                                                Sitting happily alongside the Loire,
steps take us from vineyard to forest and a complete change of scenery and ambiance.
                                                                                                Nevers, a Town of Art and History,
The limestone soil here is perfect for deciduous trees, forming a dense and rich forest
                                                                                                offers a multitude of options for
watered by the springs. Joigny stretches out along the River Yonne. Labelled «Town              heritage enthusiasts on tour. A land
and Land of Art and History» and «Most Beautiful Detours of France», the town boasts            of walkers on the Way of St James,
19 listed monuments. It is a rich natural and architectural heritage to explore via the         a key stop along the Loire by Bike
« Petit Tour en Val d’Aubry », an 8km signposted trail.                                         trail – the most westerly section
                                                                                                of Eurovelo6® – and the birthplace
                                                                                                of one of France’s most beautiful
An owl reveals Dijon!                                                                            navigable waterways, Nevers is well
This trail starts at Dijon, capital of the (grand) Dukes and of the owl, in this case, a        worth dropping in on.
very worn little owl that is sculpted on the west chapel of the church of Notre-Dame.           Strolling around the streets and
It is said that visitors should touch it with their left hand and make a wish. As well as       alleys, this discrete town reveals
bringing luck, this bird guides us on a 22 stage trail that travetravelling back through        its hallmark: everywhere you go
time along the streets of the lavish city of the Dukes of Burgundy: Porte Guillaume,            the refined art of pottery shows
the Palace of State and of the Dukes of Burgundy, Notre-Dame, the Hôtel de Vogüe,               its true colours. Artisan boutiques
Saint-Bénigne and Saint-Philibert…It can be combined with other circuits, such as the           in the old pottery quarter and the
                                                                                                museum ensure that art buffs will
Rousseau, Zola and Moïse loops. Deviating from the city centre, we will still need our
                                                                                                undoubtedly be bowled over by the
walking shoes: the wider Dijon area boasts 320km of signposted trails that are listed in
                                                                                                pretty traditional items and modern
a guide that details 34 peri-urban circuits. Another way to see the city!                       creations. Following the blue line
                                                                                                on the pavement you will discover
                                                                                                the superb Ducal Palace, a former
Giant ants with German accents                                                                  residence of the Counts and Dukes
A different point of view is also what the Prés-la-Rose gardens in Montbéliard offers.          of Nevers that is now home to the
In this 10 ha park between the canal and the river, giant insects are waiting to jump out       archaeological museum. Our advice:
along the paths. It’s enough to pique your curiosity and encourage you to explore the           take in the picturesque Montée des
park and the former town of the Dukes of Wurtemberg. This astonishing past has given            Princes or Promenade des Remparts
                                                                                                trails to enjoy exceptional views of
Montbéliard its accent from across the Rhine, of which traces and wonderful stories
                                                                                                the town and its monuments.
remain. The trail following historic information signs in the Principality takes you on
a journey through time via 300 signs and 50 signposted circuits. Closer to home, The
Memory and Peace Trail calls to mind the great episodes of World War II on the Ecot
Plateau. From the Gland Valley to the cliffs of Lomont, the trail of information signs has
its very own border-crossing character and strong links with Switzerland. Flora, fauna,
temples, fountains and even literature inspire other short walking circuits across the
Pays de Montbéliard.

                                                                                                                                 I 13
VAUBAN     FORTIFYING OUR TERRITORY

                   In the fo
                          footsteps of
                                                        T H E G E N I U S VA U B A N

           It is in the villag
                        village of Saint-Léger-Vauban where he was born, in      In total, 10 kilometres of walls punctuated by demi-bastions,
                           th Morvan, that our route begins at the Maison
           the heart off the                                                     tenailles, sentry boxes, curtain walls, turrets and half-moons...
           Vauban. Thiss sspace devoted to Vauban occupies one of the five       The architecture of the Citadel and its natural and landscape
           themed centres that make up the Morvan Eco-museum network.            aspects make it one of Vauban’s masterpieces. Perched on an
           Situated in the village square, at the foot of the statue of the      anticline that overlooks the town from a height of more than
           military engineer himself, the site invites us to explore                        one hundred metres, the fortress stretches across
           the different facets of Vauban: three rooms present                                   eleven hectares. Beyond the famous Citadel, the
           him as the military engineer, the thinker and                                            military strategist endowed the entire town
           the reformer respectively, as well as offering                                             with defensive structures. Considering the
           the reflections of Vauban on his Morvan                                                       very particular configuration of the town,
           homeland and his century.                                                                      encircled as it is by a loop of the River
                                                                                                            Doubs, Vauban constructed a perimeter
           A few kilometres from there is Avallon.                                                           wall aimed at protecting the right bank
           The town called upon the talent of                                                                of the river that was reinforced with
           Bartholdi (creator of the Lion of                                                                 six bastioned towers. He also erected
           Belfort) to honour Vauban: a 3-metre                                                              the majestic Quai Vauban, as well as
           memorial sculpted from a single block                                                             a second citadel on Battant Hill, Fort
           of grey granite from his home village                                                             Griffon. In total, and in addition to the
           of Saint-Léger and inaugurated with                                                              Citadel, 18 key sites currently exist
           great fanfare in 1873. Then comes the                                                           that punctuate the fortifications and
           château de Bazoches, which leads us into                                                       reinforce the astonishing architectural
           the intimate life of Vauban. Here we are                                                     identity of the town.
           at home with him. His home and his study.
           Beneath the gilding and rich ornamentation,                                             Also characteristic of the whole town are
           in the shade of the park or in the lounges, Vauban                                  the citadel and the fortifications of Belfort.
           often drew inspiration from this sumptuous building,                           A strategic spot for the military defence of Eastern
           owned by his descendants and now open to the general public.          France, it benefited in 1687 from Vauban’s architectural genius.
                                                                                 The hand of Vauban is also evident in the Château de Joux, near
           From his study we pass into the titanic realisation of the            Pontarlier, and in the defensive walls of Fort Saint-André that is
           ancestral fortifications, here at Besançon in the Doubs.              perched on the heights of Salins-les-Bains.
           Listed as World Heritage by UNESCO since 2008 alongside the
           perimeter walls and Fort Griffon in Besançon, the Citadel of
           Besançon is one of the most beautiful fortified citadels by Vauban.

I 14
CHANGE      YOUR POINT OF VIEW

BESANÇON
REBELLIOUS AND DARING

                                                                         CITÉ DES ARTS
                                                                         On the left bank of the Doubs the « Cité
A bend in the River Doubs extends a protective arm around the hill       des Arts et de la Culture » is home to
                                                                         FRAC Franche-Comté (the Regional
where the citadel built by Vauban more than 300 years ago perches.       Contemporary Art Fund). This space is the
The town sprung up around this natural bend, bringing with it            work of Japanese architect Kengo Kuma
countless inner courtyards and a clever maze of staircases. From         and presents temporary and permanent
the Battant quarter to the buttresses of the citadel, the charm of       exhibitions that are often guided by
                                                                         themes that are important to the town.
this town with blue and golden façades still exudes. Bronze arrows       The permanent collections include
point the way around the streets and mark out three circuits to draw     over 500 works (paintings, photography,
inspiration from: Battant, the fortified town or the upper town. But     sculpture, installations, graphic arts,
Besançon is also home to clock makers, making it the capital of          textiles, audio-visual, etc.) by nearly 300
                                                                         international artists: Marina Abramovic,
time, boasting exceptional mansion houses, secret courtyards and         Robert Breer, Christian Boltanski,
gardens, the apothecary of the 17th century hospital, famous men         Balthasard Burkhard, Gérard Gasiorowski,
and women (Hugo, Nodier, Proudhon, the Lumière Brothers, Colette…),      Christian Marclay, Gregor Schneider,
the Museum of Fine-Arts and Archaeology and many themed visits           Xavier Veilhan, Gérard Collin-Thiébaut…
                                                                         It is an exhibition space, but also a place
offered by the tourist office. Then, of course, you have the citadel.    of learning, with conferences, a library, a
This proud edifice and its fortifications provide the blueprint of the   terrace café. A vibrant venue to visit and
town, revealing the envy and power games it has inspired since the       experience.
beginning and the reason for its UNESCO World Heritage listing.
At the heart of the citadel, museums and a zoo make this a lively
place where events abound. In summer, the wild history of the site
is recounted by actors. Donning wig, make-up and costume, Vauban
strolls along the rampart walk and the corridors of time, taking us
with him.
                                                                         THE GRANDES HEURES
                                                                         NATURE FESTIVAL
                                                                         Surrounded by woodland and seven
                                                                         hills, crossed by a river boasting banks
                                                                         that are home to 1,000km of walking
                                                                         trails, Besançon seems to have been
                                                                         created especially for outdoor and nature
                                                                         activities. It’s quite natural then that the
                                                                         leading festival exclusively devoted to
                                                                         outdoor pursuits was born in Besançon.
                                                                         Code name: « Grandes Heures Nature ».
                                                                         Rendez-vous from 5th to 7th June 2020.

                                                                                                                          I 15
PEDAL       IN PERFECT FREEDOM

        Do you prefer pedalling
         through green spaces
         with the wind in your
             hair or with your
          handlebars gripped
         as you race along the
         pretty cobbles? Bikes
            are perfect for any
                                                                      TOWN BIKES
                                                                                                                                               DIJON

          setting, and here are
         a few ideas for urban
         AND all-terrain trails                                         COUNTRY BIKES
           through Burgundy-
             Franche-Comté.

       Start pedalling in Belfort to enjoy an urban ride through the legs of   A certain art de vivre is cultivated in smaller towns, such as Vesoul.
       the lion. Half-timbered houses, narrow streets and squares of pink      With the old town centre and the beautiful lake that stretches out at
       sandstone, flower-filled quaysides and green spaces, from the old       the threshold of the town, the Vesoul area provides some wonderful
       town to the suburbs there are over 100km of cycling itineraries.        ideas for days out combining town and countryside right up to the
       Cyclists and citizens also enjoy a direct connection with the           banks of the nearby River Saône.
       major trails, greenways and EuroVelo6®. It’s perfect for riding to
       neighbouring Montbéliard. This is an automotive town, but much          This is a verdant ambiance shared by the Val de Vingeanne with, at
       more besides. Montbéliard and its wider area provide an important       its heart, the pretty villages of Fontaine-Française, Mirebeau-sur-
       hub for cyclists, with 98km of dedicated paths across the town.         Bèze, Arcelot and even Oisilly. The rivers, springs, château, Saint-
       From the château of the Dukes of Wurtemberg to the scientific           Pierre de Bèze Abbey: a land of beautiful stone and wild waters that
       gardens of Prés-la-Rose, lift your gaze from the handlebars and         we love riding through, just like Val de Gray that flanks the Saône.
       change your point of view. The Temple Saint-Martin, pretty coloured
       façades, the Aventure Peugeot Museum and even, just a short ride        In Gray, park your bike on the quayside to fully enjoy the
       away, the contemporary stained-glass windows of the church of           architectural treasures of the town that has taken over the left bank:
       Sacré Cœur d’Audincourt designed by Fernand Léger.                      Renaissance town hall and its roof of glazed tiles, the Saint-Pierre-
                                                                               Fourier basilica and tower (15th century), the Tour du Parvis, last
       A change of ambiance in Besançon, with the quays along the              vestige of the fortified château of Gray, the pretty Italian theatre,
       Doubs that were fortified by Vauban, the citadel, Granvelle Palace      the Carmelite chapel, the château of the Count of Provence that
       and square, the streets and alleys that surround La Boucle and the      became the Musée Baron Martin. Because on a bike, it’s a pleasure
       gentle valleys that enclose the town are a delight for all kinds of     to take your time and explore the intimate side of a region.
       cyclists. With the tramway, greenways and pedestrian streets, the
       town loves cycling for leisure and for sport. Besançon is also a        Continuing on this theme, head for Montbard, birthplace of the
       stage of the EuroVelo6® trail.                                          naturist Buffon. From the medieval château to the pretty park
                                                                               that surrounds it, passing the former stables that now house a
       From one capital to another, we move to Dijon and its wider area:       museum, Montbard celebrates natural history and its fathers. This
       « Le Grand Dijon à Vélo » presents its map! It’s another way to         is a seductive stop along the TGV route from Paris to Burgundy-
       explore the capital of the Dukes of Burgundy and the ambitious          Franche-Comté and the departure point for a very beautiful stage
       International City of Gastronomy that has made a place for softer       of the Canal de Bourgogne by bike. From Montbard to Venarey-les-
       modes of transport. The Palais des Ducs, the splendid Museum            Laumes in the Auxois, a 13.3km circuit crosses pretty landscapes
       of Fine-Arts, the picturesque Rue de la Chouette, the flavoursome       and gentle countryside taking you back in time. Pedalling along the
       market district: in town, half the fun of cycling is stopping off       water’s edge, between the wooded hillsides and the green pastures,
       somewhere to have a drink, visit, taste.                                you reach Mont-Auxois (Alésia) upon which a certain Vercingétorix
                                                                               stands watch. It was here that the armies of Gaul surrendered their
                                                                               arms to the Romans.

I 16
COUNTRY BIKES
                                                                         Striking out on a trail into the forests, between the vineyards
                                                                         or up a mountain, in a leisurely or more sporty vein, all-terrain
                                                                         or even aboard an electric bike, to ride across the landscape
                                               THE SUMMIT OF MONT-D'OR   and along all challenging trails, cycling offers another way
                                                                         of seeing and experiencing the region. Wind in your hair, at
                                                                         your own pace and according to your tastes, you can nibble
                                                                         at or devour kilometres of trails. Because of this Burgundy-
                                                                         Franche-Comté offers multiple dedicated trails and shared-
                                                                         use routes, such as in the Tonnerrois. Vineyards, the Canal
                                                                         de Bourgogne, springs, gardens, forests: from Tonnerre to
                                                                         Ancy-le-Franc you bike will carry you into the fresh air and to
                                                                         green spaces where you can really breathe!

                                                                         Rise above it all and enjoy the Grande Traversée du Morvan
                                                                         trail: GTM to its friends. From Avallon in the Yonne, to Autun
                                                                         in Saône-et-Loire, the GTM shows mountain bikers the most
                                                                         beautiful trails on the massif (314.2km). In total, 330km of
                                                                         paths with climbs that match those of the famous Grande
                                                                         Traversée du Massif Central (GTMC), part of nearly 1,400km
                                                                         of trails that link Avallon and Cap d’Agde Stay at the summit
                                                                         with the Grande Traversée du Jura trail. From Mandeure in the
                                                                         Doubs, to Culoz in the Ain, the GTJ boasts 425km of trails that
                                                                         are especially devoted to mountain bikers along the spine of
                                                                         the Jura Massif. Here you will cross, most notably, the Jura
                                                                         Monts Rivières area. With the Champagnole plateau, the
                         GREENWAY IN THE VINEYARD OF MEURSAULT
                                                                         forest of Haute-Joux, the landscapes and rivers of Foncine,
                                                                         the medieval heritage and pastures of Nozeroy, this provides
                                                   PLATEAU OF            an astonishing concentration of what the massif has to offer.
                                            A THOUSAND PONDS
                                                                         Changing gear for guaranteed thrills takes us to Métabief.
                                                                         At the foot of Mont-d’Or, this resort is a mountain biking hot-
                                                                         spot: downhill, free-ride and endure trails. Spectacular!

                                                                         Still with sporty cycling, but this time on the roads, we head
                                                                         to the Ballons des Vosges. Servance and Alsace Ballons,
                                                                         Belfahy and Planche-des-Belles-Filles: these are names
                                                                         that are enough to give bike lovers goosebumps. These
                                                                         mid-mountain hills are stages on the legendary Tour de
                                                                         France that can be emulated. Staying on the Vosges du Sud
                                                                         Massif we get our breath back. At an altitude of 600 metres
                                                                         in the heights of Servance and as if by magic, the horizon
                                                                         stretches out across the aptly named Plateau of a Thousand
                                                                         Ponds. The dark waters of some of these countless ponds
                                                                         provide a mysterious sparkle that punctuates a landscape
                                                                         of moorland, birch trees, ferns, heather and pink sandstone.
                                                                         This is a sumptuous, wild and enchanting environment, but
« Ville et Territoire                                                    one that is very fragile because of the habitats it contains.
Vélotouristique » label:                                                 Whether you travel through it on small country roads or along
Belfort, Vesoul and its wider area.                                      the numerous trails through the undergrowth, it is essential
                                                                         to respect the sign-posts.

                                                                                                                                             I 17
DISCOVER     THE INTIMACY OF THE TOWN

Belfort from fort to fort,
and not just for sport ;-)
I enjoy jogging and there’s a route I really love.
It’s a (small) section of the Randonnée des
Forts. With the family, it also makes for a nice
walk and a great history lesson for the kids.
Apart from the scenery, it passes places that
remind us of the major events of “Resistance
in Belfort”. Defending against Prussia, Austria
and even France, Belfort has built numerous
forts and walls. From Belfort to Giromagny
there is Fort Dorsner, Bessoncourt and the Fort
Sénarmont, right up to Andelnans and Fort
Ordener in Vézelois. This itinerary takes you
back in time along 75km of landscape dotted
with the very first defensive forts in the Vosges.
It’s not just for sport ;-)

                                       “I feel at home in Belfort”
Exciting: Escape Rooms, the                          Caroline is 42 and married with two children;
                                                     Victor (9) and Valentine (13). Originally from
key to the Bastion                                   Lorraine, Belfort has been her adopted home
Being locked in a room and escaping to
complete a challenge in less than one hour: a        for around ten years. They get along so well,
brilliant concept. Especially when you add the       it’s hard to say who has adopted who.
history of the town and the the setting in which
this all unfolds. This is Tour 27. A bastioned       With a few addresses, highlights and top tips,
tower on the ramparts of the old town! There         Caroline guides us around her town, just as she
are two puzzles that must be solved as a
group. There is Vauban’s Office and Bartholdi’s
                                                     would her own friends and family.
Workshop. The first takes you on a journey to
the year of Our Lord 1700 and the second to
1880, when the famous Lion was inaugurated.
The sculptor has lost his speech notes. My
6 childhood friends and I must urgently find
them; within 57 min. Would you be up for the
challenge?

Maurice Jardot’s
surprising gift
At this ancient property belonging to the
family of poet Léon Deubel are 150 paintings,
sculptures and drawings from the 20th century:
Picasso, Braque, Léger, Gris, Laurens, Masson….
An easily accessible treasure trove of culture.

I 18
Top table(s)!                                                           Greenery, old stone, shopping, lovely events:
Lunch or dinner at a restaurant in the old town,                        Belfort has everything to delight.
overlooked by the citadel and the Lion. The
Pot au Feu, the Nenni ma Foi, Les Capucins or                           Let yourself be surprised!
even La Fontaine des Saveurs all serve revisited
recipes from yesteryear based on fresh regional
products in season.

The King of the urban jungle
It is a true classic, but we love “climbing on the
lion”. This walk takes you between the (gigantic)
paws of the famous tawny beast that overlooks
the old town. Victor dreams of being big enough
to go even higher, among the whiskers of
the lion, and finally solve the puzzle: does he
actually have a tongue?

Adventure:
the citadel and freedom                                                                            Virtual reality
Like a journey through time, this visit takes the                                                  Quite simply magical! With
form of a quiz in order to fully reveal the secrets                                                reconstructions, films and 3D animation,
of a place that is always so impressive. Here, it                                                  the intrigues of the past and the ravages
feels like you are in the pages of a giant history                                                 of time come back to life and project
book: you rub shoulders with Bartholdi, Vauban,                                                    themselves onto our reality. The walls of
General Haxo, Denfert-Rochereau. And what an                                                       the Citadel come alive. Like this we can
extremely lively history book it is, thanks to the                                                 discover the original majesty of the great
son et lumière and 3D animations. Children are                                                     underground tunnels of the Citadel and
sure to go wild for this discovery trail exploring                                                 the Lion thanks to this superb augmented
quarries and bastions, right down to the Grand                                                     reality visitor trail. And the whole thing is
Souterrain caves at the heart of the citadel.                                                      available in three languages, by the way!

                                                      My diary dates;
                                                           believe me,
                                                         there is always
                                                      something happening
                                                           in Belfort!

Entrevues: budding talents                            The Eurockéennes Festival:
Short films and features by up-                       unmissable
coming directors compete during the                   Without doubt one of the greatest rock
international festival for creative young             festivals in Europe! Since 1988, it has
cinematographers. End November, early                 brought together headliners, young
December.                                             talent, pop, rock, rap, hip-hop, blues and
                                                      crowds! The Eurock’ were 30 years old in
It’s all white                                        2018. In a word; unmissable. From 3th to
The town dresses up as a mountain.                    6th July at Malsaucy.
Skiing, luge, skating, chalets: it’s all here.
Go Christmas shopping in mittens.                     Unmissable:
                                                      Belfort Flea Market
Le FIMU world music                                   The first Sunday of the month between
The whole world! The International Festival           March and December, Belfort old
of University Music has ambiance and                  town becomes a paradise for antique
a change of scene. May or June, on                    hunters...and for me! Over 200
Pentecost weekend.                                    professionals and lots of treasures.

                                                                                                                                         I 19
CHECK OUT   THE REMARKABLE SITES

                   FAMOUS
                  SIGNATURES
                   Châteaux, fortresses, ruins, towns and villages, religious, civic, military and even
                   industrial heritage are all witness to the history of our lives and of our lands. Places
                   where these remarkable sites have put down roots to benefit from a waterway, a
                   promontory, a geographical location or specific natural resources and advantages.
                   Managed, extended and protected by the men and women of Burgundy-Franche-Comté,
                   this exceptional heritage has lasted through the ages until now. Each of these sites
                   boasts a precious heritage, and bears the signature of Burgundy-Franche-Comté.

 BIBRACTE                                                           Our journey begins with a prodigious leap into the past, right
                                                                    back to the 1st century before Christ, to Mont Beuvray. A territory
                                                                    located in between the current departments of Nièvre and Saône-
                                                                    et-Loire, in the heart of the Morvan Forest, where the Gallo-Celtic
                                                                    Aedui people established their capital: Bibracte. The 200 ha. town
                                                                    surrounded by ramparts is one of the high spots of ancient history,
                                                                    as it was here that Vercingétorix was named chief of the coalition of
                                                                    Gauls. Fortifications, monumental doorways, public buildings, pool,
                                                                    cellar, place of worship, homes and workshops updated thanks to
                                                                    excavation works and, in the case of some, partially reconstructed
                                                                    to take the visitor back to time immemorial and provide evidence of
                                                                    the fascinating history of the site.
                                                                    A remarkably well-preserved oppidum where Caesar personally
                                                                    stayed following his victory at Alesia marks the spot where he
                                                                    wrote his final Commentaries on the War of Gaul. An emotive and
                                                                    precious reminder of the very distant past, Bibracte also offers us
                                                                    its breathtaking natural heritage, that of a town hidden away in the
                                                                    nook of a forest with an atmosphere all of its own (a ZNIEFF and
                                                                    Natura 2000 listed site).

                                                                    Still with our Gaul ancestors, we head to 52 B.C, the moment Julius
                                                                    Caesar himself won the Battle of Alésia and, with it, the conquest
                From Alésia to the Lion of Belfort,                 of Gaul. This is Côte-d’Or, beside Alise-Sainte-Reine, and we re-join
             from Sens to Luxeuil-les-Bains, from                   Vercingétorix. It was here that the Arverne’s great chief surrendered
                                                                    at the feet of the all-powerful Roman Emperor. Dominating the
                Cluny to Saint-Claude, let’s take a                 Auxois Land of Art and History is his statue, commissioned by
                 journey. A journey through time                    Napoleon III, which overlooks the site. Its plinth reads “A united
              and through the lands of Burgundy-                    Gaul, forming a single nation, animated by the same spirit, can defy
                                                                    the universe”. The MuséoParc Alésia interpretation centre explores
                                 Franche-Comté.
                                                                    the point of view of the Gauls and of their great Roman enemies,
                                                                    with an interactive and dynamic discovery of the famous battle and
                                                                    its challenges. Also on the site, the ruins of a Gallo-Roman town
                                                                    have been revealed by years of digs, evidence of an ancient city that
                                                                    stood here until the V Century.

I 20
BIBRACTE

MUSÉOPARC ALÉSIA

              I 21
CHECK OUT   THE REMARKABLE SITES

                                                                                         A few decades after the War of the Gauls, the Aedui
                                                                                         deserted Bibracte in favour of a new capital in Autun.
                                                                                         The Romans founded Augustodunum. The destiny of the
                                                                                         town was changing. Autun still remains a treasure box
                                                                                         for archaeologists. Visitors can see ramparts, towers, the
                                                                                         Couhard Pyramid (a funerary monument built in the 1st
                                                                                         century A.D), the Saint-André and Arroux gates and even
                                                                                         the Temple of Janus, the two-faced god, a place of worship
                                                                                         of Gaulish origin that honours an unknown deity…a great
                                                                                         mystery. As for the town’s Gallo-Roman theatre, it was
                                                                                         dedicated to dramatic performances and could hold up to
                                                                                         20,000 spectators, making it the largest in the whole Western
                                                                                         Roman Empire, maintaining this title well into the Middle
                                                                                         Ages. Evidence of this period is found in the priory church
                                                                                         of Saint-Martin, a pagan temple that became an abbey in the
                                                                                         V Century, in the medieval quarter with its Ursulines Tower,
                                                                                         of course, in the Saint- Lazare Cathedral (XII Century). It is
                                                                                         topped off with a stone arrow erected in the XV Century and
                                                                             AUTUN
                                                                                         displays beautiful sculptures, including the capitals that bear
                                                                                         the signature of Gislebertus. This is a masterpiece of Cluniac
                                                                                         art. Nearer to our time, the XIX Century heritage provides
                                                                                         other backdrops for our city strolls: the elegant Passage
                                                                                         Balthus, its neo-Renaissance decor and original skylights, the
        200km north, Burgundy delicately brushes the Ile de France.
                                                                                         town hall and its reception rooms at ground level that host a
        This is Sens. From the Middle Ages, there has been a powerful
                                                                                         market every Wednesday and Friday or even the municipal
        archbishopric here whose influence has stretched over the
                                                                                         theatre. In terms of Autunois heritage, we should mention
        bishoprics of Chartres, Auxerre, Meaux, Paris, Orléans, Nevers
                                                                                         the Rolin Museum, located in the birth house (XV Century) of
        and Troyes. In 1130, Henri Sanglier, the archbishop of the
                                                                                         the Chancellor of the Dukes of Burgundy and founder of the
        time, undertook the construction of a cathedral to match (or
                                                                                         Hospices de Beaune. This site offers a concentration of the
        exceed) his own religious supremacy. The building boasted a
                                                                                         history of our land, from Antiquity to the XX Century.
        revolutionary design: crossed ogives. This was the world’s first
        Gothic cathedral, a monument whose slender architecture,
        skylights, stained-glass windows and sculptures continue
        to astound visitors. Alongside Saint-Etienne Cathedral, Sens
        boasts other heritage features that guide us into the intimate
        and historical aspects of this enchanting town: the Garnier des
        Prés ramparts and postern, a vestige of Antiquity, the synodal
        palace erected between 1230 and 1240 and later restored by
        Viollet-le-Duc in the XIX Century, which nowadays houses the
        exhibition spaces of the museums of Sens and brings together
        exceptional collections featuring some of the finest treasures
        from the cathedrals of France, the Maison d’Abraham, a XVI
        Century house designed for use by the tanners, the splendid
        Hôtel de Ville that was built during the III Republic, the Baltard
        style halls of the covered market (surprisingly triangular!)

                                                      SAINT-ETIENNE CATHEDRAL ( SENS )

I 22
THE MEDIEVAL WINDS BLOW
We stay in Burgundy but return to the purity of the Middle Ages to visit Cluny, a monastic hotbed
if ever there was one. Bathed by the waters of the Grosne, a tributary of the Saône, and flanked by
the Charolais dales, on this fertile land of southern Burgundy a Benedictine abbey was founded in
910 AD. A masterpiece of Roman art, the town retains monastic ruins and buildings. The abbey-
town leads us from the Portes d’Honneur to the spectacular Tour des Fromages, passing by the
Palais Jean de Bourbon (Home to the Museum of Art and Archaeology), vestiges of the great abbey
church, the cloister, the flour store and the monks’ pantry. By following the bronze nails on the
ground depicting the Pascal Lamb, we travel through the centuries into the medieval ambiance of
the town as it unfolds around the abbey itself. The Wells of the Penitent, the Hôtel de la Monnaie,
the Maison des Echevins, the Porte Saint-Odile; so many remarkable buildings that still remain
as evidence of religious power, the abbey influenced art and politics across the whole of Europe.
Until the construction of St Peter’s in Rome in the 16th century, the abbey church at Cluny was the
largest in Christendom! It is a remarkable journey back in time that can be extended with a visit
to the town centre’s Roman houses, as well as to the neighbouring villages filled with châteaux,
priories and chapels, such as Brancion, Berzé, Mazille or even Tournus.

                                                                                                I 23
CHECK OUT    THE REMARKABLE SITES

                                                                                                                   ABBEY OF SAINT-CLAUDE

Staying in the Middle Ages but heading to the Jura Mountains, within an enclosed valley
at the confluence of the Bienne and Tacon rivers, the town of Saint-Claude was built on
the foundations of a powerful Benedictine abbey. This pilgrimage hotspot from the 15 to
16th century was personally visited by King Louis XI in 1456 and 1482. A wood and horn
turning industry sprang up around the monastery, serving the needs of pilgrims. Through
the centuries, the artisans diversified their products: rosaries and prayer beads, as well
as pipes and toys. These skills, tools and attention to detail was then employed by the
people of Jura in the clock industry of its Swiss neighbours, making precious stones and
enamel clock faces. Around Saint- Claude and Morez, the Haut-Jura still boasts a proud
reputation and living evidence of this great savoir-faire can still be seen. Venues for
exhibitions or events, as well as museums like the ones focusing on pipes and diamonds,
or even the Wood-turning Museum and the astonishing Fraternelle Museum established
in 1870 by a worker’s cooperative, recount great artisanal or industrial stories. As for the
former abbey, nowadays it is home to a very fine museum of art and archaeology. The
original site has been enhanced by a daring contemporary structure and opened its doors
in 2008. This is a prodigious time machine that features precious vestiges of Antiquity
and of the monastic era, as well as much more contemporary works from the likes of
Bonnard, Valloton, Dufy or Vuillard, bequeathed by artists and collectors Guy Bardone
and René Genis. This provides a different and very singular vision of the Haut-Jura.

                                                                                                                                         LUXEUIL-LES-BAINS

                                                                                        Switching massifs, we now go to the foot of the Vosges du Sud.
                                                                                        Christianity once again was responsible for the birth of Luxeuil-les-
                                                                                        Bains. It was here that a spring of hot water, already appreciated
                                                                                        by the Romans, was discovered. It was said to bring purity,
                                                                                        longevity and fertility. In 610, the Irish monk St Colomban set off
                                                                                        with 12 companions to evangelise Gaul and erected one of the first
                                                                                        monasteries in Europe around this source. Thanks to its religious
                                                                                        aura of the High Middle Ages and precious waters, the town of
                                                                                        pink sandstone prospered. Cloister, abbey, thermal baths, sculpted
                                                                                        façades, staircases, elegant arcades, towers and turrets, the old
                                                                                        town centre takes us back into history, from the Gothic to the Belle
                                               SAINT-COLOMBAN - LUXEUIL-LES-BAINS       Époque, and through the Renaissance. Delightful!

I 24
BEAUTIFUL AND REBELIOUS
TOWNS
Just a few kilometres from the unique chapel of
Ronchamp lies the land of Belfort. This rebellious
land has always fought against occupation or
invasion, whether French, Prussian or Austrian;
Belfort is a lion that runs free, with a heart of (pink)
stone. Quarried in the neighbouring Vosges, its
façades are made of pink sandstone, as are the
château, citadel, fortifications and Bartholdi’s Lion
that overlooks the rooftops of the old town and a
maze of narrow streets and small squares where
visitors love to get lost. Crossing the bridges and
the Savoureuse, the town turns into residential
neighbourhoods that stretch up to the doorstep of
the great industrial sites that have taken Belfort and
its surrounding area to the forefront of mechanical                                 BELFORT, ITS CITADEL AND THE LION OF BARTHOLDI

excellence. Picturesque, busy, industrial and still
very green: the ponds (Malsaucy and Des Forges)
and forests make the land of the lion rugged and
natural. It’s a question of balance.

                                                                                     This same balance of greenery, water and
                                                                                     stone defines Besançon. Nestling in a
                                                                                     meander of the Doubs beside green hills,
                                                                                     Besançon has bolstered its natural defences
                                                                                     with clever constructions. The fortifications
                                                                                     and famous citadel by Vauban have earned
                                                                                     this Comtois beauty UNESCO recognition.
                                                                                     This stone ring built more than 100m high
                                                                                     towers over the town and gives it an identity
                                                                                     and charm. The site can be visited and is
                                                                                     now home to museums and a zoo. In 1678,
                                                                                     after the signing of the Teaty of Nijmegen,
                                                                                     Besançon and its region finally became part
                                                                                     of France, and Louis XIV commissioned
                                                                                     his military architect Vauban to construct
                                                                                     the citadel. All at once, Besançon became
                                                                                     a cornerstone of the kingdom’s eastern
                                                                                     defences and the regional capital.

                                                           BESANÇON (GARE D'EAU )

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CHECK OUT   THE REMARKABLE SITES

                                                                                Until then it was Dole that boasted the title of capital and all
                                                                                the benefits of its status. The nerve centre of Comté, then a
                                                                                dependency of the Kingdom of Spain, Dole was regularly
                                                                                subjected to assaults from the King of France’s troops. It was
                                                                                here, in 1636, that the Prince of Condé, emissary of the King
                                                                                of France, shouted to its proud resistance fighters the now
                                                                                famous phrase “Comtois, rends-toi!” The indommitable Franc-
                                                                                Comtois replied to their tormentor “Nenni, ma foi!” This historic
                                                                                phrase has become a motto that represents the determination
                                                                                and independent spirit of the Comtois people. Despite the blood
                                                                                and fire of its enemies, this Jura town still shows evidence of a
                                                                                prestigious past. The Hôtel-Dieu, collegiate church, parliament,
                                                                                university, mansion houses and priories provide so many
                                                                                pretexts for a beautiful stroll through the narrow streets and
                                                                                gardens and along the charming Canal des Tanneurs. This is
                                                                                a place that has been marked by the birth of a truly great man,
DOLE
                                                                                the son of a tanner in fact; Louis Pasteur. The birth house of the
                                                                                genius can be visited. Overlooking all of this is the silhouette
                                                                                of the collegiate church of Notre-Dame. Constructed in the
                                                                                XVI Century, it symbolises the revival of the town following
                                                                                the ravages it suffered under Louis XI. It is the starting point
                                                                                from which the city walking tours depart, like the “Chat Perché
                                                                                Trail” or the “Dragonfly Trail” along the banks of the River Doubs
                                                                                that flanks the town to the south. A canoe-kayaking trail for
                                                                                visitors using a GPS built in to the boat provides another way
                                                                                of exploring the formidable historic, architectural and natural
                                                                                heritage of Dole.

                          DARING AND CREATIVITY
                          Rebellious, visionary, ingenious, creative: there are countless adjectives to describe the local people. Evidence of this strong
                          character is found in Pays de Montbéliard, which adds entrepreneurial and daring to the list of regional attributes.
                          Entrepreneurial like the automobile industry that was the beating heart of the town. Alongside the fairy tale château and the
                          surprising gardens of Près-la-Rose, a hymn to horticultural science and knowledge, you can hear the famous Peugeot lion
                          roar. Firstly, there are the manufacturing sites established in 1912, a veritable historic monument to industry that is expanded
                          upon further in the Aventure Peugeot Museum. A breathtaking site of over 10,000m² that recounts more than two centuries
                          of mechanics. It all began in 1810, at a former grain mill transformed into a foundry and forge hammer. Here, the Peugeot
                          brothers produced saw blades and clock faces, and later coffee grinders and tools. This diversification intensified with sewing
                          machines before turning towards the manufacture of bicycles. The Peugeot saga was in full flow! More than 3000 objects
                          bearing the famous lion and nearly 200 vehicles with two, three or four wheels are waiting to transport you. From the most
                          retro bikes to futuristic concept cars, from gleaming bodywork to racing cars that are still caked in the sand and asphalt of
                          great sporting challenges, the Aventure Peugeot Museum is a prodigious time machine that takes you on a full-throttle trip
                          around the world.
                          A boutique, brasserie, reception rooms, guided or audio-guided visits, the organisation of events, for young and old alike, all in
                          a fantastic Art Deco setting make this site an absolute must.
                          The story of this brand is intimately linked with that of the Pays de Montbéliard where countless suppliers flocked and
                          bolstered the density and the energy of this intense industrial activity in an area that is as verdant and bucolic as they come.

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THE AVENTURE PEUGEOT MUSEUM ( SOCHAUX )

                                                                            DIJON IN CAPITALS
                                                                            Capital of the Dukes of Burgundy, international city of
                                                                            gastronomy and wine, gateway to the vineyards and
                                                                            therefore the famous Climats of Burgundy that are
THE POLAR BEAR, DARCY PARK ( DIJON )                                        listed as World Heritage by UNESCO: Dijon boasts
                                                                            a string of titles and beautiful reference points
                                                                            and lives up to all its promises. From picturesque
                                                                            wood-panelled houses and Corbel arches on the
                                                                            rue Verrerie to the Gothic flamboyance of the Hôtel
                                                                            Chambellan, from the Maison des Trois Pignons
                                                                            to that of Les Cariatides on rue Chaudronnerie,
                                                                            from the vertiginous Philip the Good Tower to the
                                                                            Palais des Ducs et des Etats de Bourgogne, from
                                                                            parks to museums, from the covered market to
                                                                            the restaurants, bistros and wine bars, let your
                                                                            footsteps (and your taste buds) guide you through
                                                                            this prodigious hotbed of heritage and history.

                                                                                                    MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS ( DIJON )

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