Travel Guide Istanbul - Spectacular city on two continents
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Travel Guide
Istanbul
Spectacular city on two continents
02 Quick view 05 Top 10 sights 11 Crew Tip
02 Turkey 07 Shopping in Istanbul 12 Best of ...
03 Travel etiquette 07 Restaurants 14 24 hours in ...
04 Health 08 Nightlife
04 Phone calls & Internet 09 Calendar of events
05 Getting around Istanbul 10 Hotels
© sabino.parente - Fotolia.com
LH.com/travelguide Istanbul 01/16
Travel Guide
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02
Quick view
Istanbul: Spectacular city on two continents
You've heard it all before: Istanbul is where east meets west, a bridge between
civilisations. But with nearly 15 million inhabitants, Turkey's biggest city is
considered such an important cultural crossroad with good reason. How many
other skylines feature ancient mosques jostling with skyscrapers? Before
Constantinople finally fell to the Ottomans in 1453, it was the greatest city in the
known world;
surviving highlights include the mighty church of Hagia Sophia and the fabled Blue
Mosque. Such fascinating contrasts are what define the heaving metropolis: from
the old quarter's dizzying tangle of streets, fragrant with spices and shisha, to the
trendy bar-strewn Beyońülu District that lies across the Bosphorus Strait
separating Asia and Europe.
Turkey
General information
Country overview
For sheer diversity, it’s hard to beat Turkey. The country seems to exist in
multitudes – of people, of natural landscapes, of cultures. It is a land of vast open
spaces, massive mountain ranges, fertile valleys and rugged coastline, fast-
growing cities and sleepy villages, bustling neon-lit seaside resorts and
unfrequented beaches.
Countless waves of invasions, rebellions and ongoing immigration have created a
country that may surprise visitors with the breadth and depth of the cultural melting-
pot, not just in the major cities but across the country, with Kurds, Greeks, Arabs
and many more groups to be found.
Geography
Turkey borders the Black Sea and Georgia and Armenia to the northeast, Iran to
the east, Iraq to the southeast, Syria and the Mediterranean to the south, the
Aegean Sea to the west and Greece and Bulgaria to the northwest. Asia Minor (or
Anatolia) is the name given to the peninsula that forms a bridge between Europe
and Asia. It accounts for 97% of the country's area and forms a long, wide
peninsula 1,650km (1,025 miles) from east to west and 650km (400 miles) from
north to south. The biggest city is Ankara, which is situated in the central plains of
Anatolia.
The other 3% of the country is Thrace, the tiny land mass which is the European
portion of Turkey bordering Bulgaria and Greece and separated from Anatolia by
the Bosphorus, a strait linking the Black Sea and Aegean Sea. Despite its small
size 10% of the population lives here, with most of these in Istanbul.
Two east-west mountain ranges, the Black Sea Mountains in the north and the
Taurus in the south, enclose the central Anatolian plateau, but converge in a vast
mountainous region in the far east of the country. It is here that the ancient Tigris
and Euphrates rivers rise.
General knowledge
Key Facts
Population: 80.8 million
Capital: Ankara
Language
Turkish is the official language. Kurdish is also spoken by a minority in the
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southeast. French, German and English are widely spoken in major cities and
tourist areas.
Currency
New Turkish Lira (TRY; symbol YTL) = 100 New Kurus (Ykr). Notes are in
denominations of YTL200, 100, 50, 20, 10, 5 and 1. Coins are in denominations of
YTL1 and 50, 25, 10, 5 and 1 New Kurus.
Electricity
220 volts AC, 50Hz. European-style plugs with two round pins are used.
Public holidays
Below are listed Public Holidays for the January 2019 – December 2020 period.
2019
Yılbaşı (New Year’s Day): 1 January 2019
Ulusal Egemenlik ve Çocuk Bayramı (National Sovereignty and Children’s Day):
23 April 2019
Emek ve Dayanışma Günü (Labour Day): 1 May 2019
Atatürk’ü Anma (Commemoration of Atatürk) and Gençlik ve Spor Bayramı (Youth
and Sports Day): 19 May 2019
Şeker Bayramı/Ramazan Bayramı (Feast of Sugar/End of Ramadan): 5 – 6 June
2019
Demokrasi ve Millî Birlik Günü (Democracy and National Unity Day): 15 July 2019
Kurban Bayramı (Feast of Sacrifice): 12 – 14 August 2019
Zafer Bayramı (Victory Day): 30 August 2019
Cumhuriyet Bayramı (Republic Day): 29 October 2019
2020
Yılbaşı (New Year’s Day): 1 January 2020
Ulusal Egemenlik ve Çocuk Bayramı (National Sovereignty and Children’s Day):
23 April 2020
Emek ve Dayanışma Günü (Labour Day): 1 May 2020
Atatürk’ü Anma (Commemoration of Atatürk) and Gençlik ve Spor Bayramı (Youth
and Sports Day): 19 May 2020
Şeker Bayramı/Ramazan Bayramı (Feast of Sugar/End of Ramadan): 24 to 26 May
2020
Demokrasi ve Millî Birlik Günü (Democracy and National Unity Day): 15 July 2020
Kurban Bayramı (Feast of Sacrifice): 31 July to 3 August 2020
Zafer Bayramı (Victory Day): 30 August 2020
Cumhuriyet Bayramı (Republic Day): 29 October 2020
All information subject to change.
Travel etiquette
How to fit in
Social conventions
Shaking hands is the normal form of greeting a stranger; kissing on the cheek is
reserved for meeting friends and family. Hospitality is very important and visitors
should respect Islamic customs. Informal wear is acceptable, but beachwear
should be confined to the beach or poolside. Smoking is widely acceptable but
prohibited in cinemas, theatres, buses, coaches and dolmuş (collective taxis).
There is no law against women wearing headscarves in public but those in public
roles and campus students are banned from wearing them. However, if visiting a
mosque, women are advised to take scarves to cover their hair and to wear long-
sleeved tops. Both men and women should have legs covered from the knees
upwards.
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Health
Health
Main emergency number: 112
Food & Drink
Mains water is chlorinated in towns and cities, but it is advisable to drink the widely
available bottled mineral water. If a water source bears the words içilmez, it is not
potable; sources labelled içilir or içme suyu are safe to drink. Milk is pasteurised.
Eat only well-cooked meat and fish. When it comes to street food, common sense
is advised; eat food that is freshly cooked and ideally, has been prepared in front of
you. During the summer Turkey can experience temperatures up to 40°C so carry
a bottle of water to avoid dehydration.
Other Risks
Vaccinations against tuberculosis and hepatitis B are sometimes recommended. It
is recommended that travellers visiting rural areas, get a rabies vaccination as this
may be found in dogs, cats and other animals throughout the countryside. Turkey
has very low risk of malaria, with the risk increasing towards the Syrian border in
the south east of the country, but keen trekkers may want to stock up on supplies of
insect-repellent.
Contractual physician of Lufthansa
Dr. Sayali, Erhan
Kadiköy 3 No´Lu ASM
Eminalipasa Cad. 7
Suadiye-Kadiköy
Istanbul
Turkey
Tel. +90-532-2329443
Please note that Lufthansa accepts no responsibility for the treatment nor will it
bear the cost of any treatment.
Phone calls & Internet
Telephone & Internet
Telephone/Mobile phones
International dialling code: +90
Telephone
The cheapest way to make calls is from PTT telephone booths, which are found in
all areas. These operate using phone cards, which can be bought from kiosks, or
by using major credit cards.
Mobile Phone
Mobile phone coverage is generally good, but can be patchy in some rural areas in
eastern Turkey. As Turkey is outside the EU, roaming charges are very much more
expensive than for mobile phone use in the UK and the rest of the EU.
Internet
There are internet cafés throughout Turkey, even in small towns and rural villages.
Almost all hotels (including even small guesthouses and budget hostels) offer free
Wi-Fi internet access, as do many restaurants, bars and cafés.
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Getting around Istanbul
Getting around
Public Transport
Istanbul boasts a terrific public transport system, notably the T1 tram that runs
between 6am and midnight. It connects the old quarter of Sultanahmet with
Beyońülu, and also links up with the modern metro. The mammoth Marmaray
project connecting Europe and Asia by underwater tunnel was completed in 2013.
Its worth buying the city travel pass, Istanbulkart to get around; it covers tram, bus
and ferry.
Taxis
The city is served by a fleet of yellow taxis, but haggling over prices can make
them uninviting for tourists. Be sure to ask that the meter is switched on, or procure
a set price by booking through your hotel.
Top 10 sights
Top 10 sights in Istanbul
Blue Mosque
Better known as the Blue Mosque in the West, Sultanahmet Camii was built to
outshine Hagia Sophia after the Ottoman conquest. Its six minarets and glorious
domes make it one of the most recognisable symbols of Islamic architecture.
Atmeydani Caddesi, Sultanahmet Opening times:
34122 Istanbul Daily 0900-1830
Turkey
Tel: (+90) 212 458 0776 www.sultanahmetcami.org
Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia)
For a thousand years before the fall of Constantinople, it stood as the mightiest
church in Christendom. Today this pink cathedral is a little shabby on the outside,
but its golden mosaics inside gleam in the dim lighting.
Ayasofya Meydanı, Sultanahmet Opening times:
Istanbul Tue-Sun 0900-1900 (summer)
Turkey Tue-Sun 0900-1700 (winter)
Tel: (+90) 212 522 1750
ayasofyamuzesi.gov.tr/en
Süleymaniye Mosque
Looming down from a high hill, enclosed within old walls, this important mosque is
more solemn than the extravagant Sultanahmet Camii. It was built in the 16th
century.
Mimar Sinan Caddesi Opening times:
Istanbul Daily 0900-1730
Turkey
www.suleymaniyecamii.org/en
Rüstem Paşa
The grey elegance of Istanbul's mosques can feel a bit samey, but Rustem Pasha
is a colourful exception. Named after the Grand Vizier to Süleymaniye, it is found
on the edge of the spice bazaar.
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Hasircilar Caddesi 90
34116 Fatih/İstanbul
Turkey
Istanbul Modern Sanat Müzesi (Istanbul Museum of
Modern Art)
The city's thriving art scene owes much to this contemporary art museum.
Documenting the history of modern Turkish art, it's situated in a vast former
warehouse by the Bosphorus.
Meclis-i Mebusan Cad. Liman Opening times:
İşletmeleri Tue-Sun 1000-1800
Sahası Antrepo No: 4, Thu 1000-2000
34433 Karaköy/Istanbul
Turkey www.istanbulmodern.org/en
Tel: (+90) 212 334 73 00
Pera Müzesi (Pera Museum)
Housed in a palatial Victorian building, the museum's permanent ambassadors'
collection of works is impressive, including the iconic painting by Osman Handi
Bey, "The Tortoise Trainer". There are also high-profile visiting exhibitions from the
likes of Goya and Botero.
Meşrutiyet Caddesi No.65 Opening hours:
34443 Tepebaşı - Beyoğlu - İstanbul Tue-Sat 1000-1900
Turkey Sun 1200-1800
Tel: (+90) 212 334 99 00
en.peramuzesi.org.tr/
Türk ve Islam Eserleri Müzesi (Museum of Turkish and
Islamic Arts)
Expected to reopen soon having undergone renovation works, this museum
features intricate woodcarved doors, chests and furniture, while the gallery of
regional Turkish rugs are captivating.
At Meydanı Sok. No:46 İbrahim Paşa Opening times:
Sarayı Sultanahmet Tue-Sun 0900-1900 (april-october)
34122 Istanbul Tue-Sun 0900-1700 (november-march)
Turkey
Tel: (+90) 212 518 18 05 www.muze.gov.tr/turkishislamic
Kapali Çarşi (Grand Bazaar)
Though it's a bit touristy, the Grand Bazaar labyrinth of shops is worth visiting as
the legendary market of the Ottomans, dating back to 1461.
Beyazit Opening times:
Istanbul Mon-Sat 0900-1900
Turkey
Tel: (+90) 212 519 1248 www.grandbazaaristanbul.org/Grand_B
azaar_Ista...
Topkapi Sarayi (Topkapi Palace)
Housed within enormous, majestic gardens, this palace was the base from which
the Ottoman sultans ruled over a vast empire.
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Cankurtaran Mh. Opening times:
34122 Istanbul Wed-Mon 0900-1845 (summer)
Turkey Wed-Mon 0900-1645 (winter)
Tel: (+90) 212 512 0480
topkapisarayi.gov.tr/en
Bosphorus cruise
Boat trips crossing from Europe to Asia and vice versa are essential, not least for
glimpsing the Blue Mosque as it was meant to be seen, via the Golden Horn.
Bedrettin Mh, Evliya Celebi Caddesi 1- www.sehirhatlari.com.tr/en
4, Beyońülu
Istanbul
Turkey
Tel: (+90) 212 444 1851
Shopping in Istanbul
Shopping
Key Areas
Bridging East and West via the Bosphorus, Istanbul has been an important trade
route since antiquity, and as such has long been a shopping hub. Apart from finely
woven carpets and Ottoman relics, there are designer shops, malls and boutiques
to explore. The main commercial street is İstiklal Caddesi in Beyoğlu, while the
lanes winding off this busy boulevard are full of little shops and vintage spots worth
a look.
Markets
Just about anything from lanterns to silverware can be found in the fabled Grand
Bazaar, but if it's too crowded
and stressful, there are several other markets dotted around the city. One is
Saturday's Bakirköy Market on Osmaniye Mahallesi; another is the charming
Kadiköy Bazaar on the Asian side. Also, don't miss the spice market lying within
the maze of streets by Galata Bridge.
Shopping Centres
Mall lovers will be impressed by the vast Istinye Park, complete with golf carts to
help shoppers back to their car. There's also the shop city that is London-style
Kanyon.
Restaurants
Restaurants in Istanbul
Far from revolving solely around the ubiquitous kebab, Turkish cuisine is richly
varied with plentiful stews, salads, sweets and pastries including the delicious
baklava.As the culinary capital of the nation, Istanbul buzzes with a mixture of
traditional cafés, gourmet eateries and international-style restaurants.
Mikla
A mix of Istanbulite and Scandinavian influences, courtesy of Finland-born chef
Mehmet Gürs, this is perhaps the finest restaurant in the city.
Meşrutiyet Caddesi 15 Price: Expensive
34430, Beyoğlu, İstanbul
Turkey
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Ciya Sofrasi
With a mind-boggling assortment of dishes including lamb-stuffed aubergine
parcels, roasted fig and traditional Turkish bread, this bustling eatery is
unmissable.
Caferaga Mah. Güneslibahce Sk. No:43 Price: Moderate
Kadiköy
Istanbul
Turkey
Çukur Meyhane
This traditional local restaurant is famed for its excellent fish and great atmosphere,
courtesy of the lively crowd fuelled by bottles of raki.
TurnacIbasi Caddesi Kartal Sokak Price: Cheap
No.1/A Galatasaray
Istanbul
Turkey
Bambi
To get your fix of classic Turkish doner kebab, look no further than Bambi, a low-
priced café for locals in the know.
Siraselviler Caddesi 20, Taksim Price: Cheap
Istanbul
Turkey
Nightlife
in Istanbul
With 35-year-olds forming the largest group in dynamic Istanbul, it’s no surprise
that the entertainment districts in the city of 15 million are always crowded.The
most popular cafés, bars, clubs and restaurants are located in Beyoğlu and
Arnavutköy. If the nightlife there is a bit too boisterous for you, you will quieter
alternatives in Kadiköy and Ortaköy.
Ruby
Located in Ortaköy, this classy club is right on the water and affords a spectacular
view of the Bosporus Bridge and the Asian side of the city. It has an excellent
restaurant that makes a good place to start the evening before dance at the club till
the small hours. Either way, smart dressing is an absolute must or you may attract
unwanted attention.
Yıldız Mh., Ortaköy Salhanesi Sk. No:5, www.rubyistanbul.com/en
34349 Istanbul
Turkey
XLarge Club
Housed in a former theater in Maslak, this club stages funky theme parties, fashion
events and daring shows. Guest performances by world-renowned DJs are a
regular feature. The XLarge Club the right address if you are looking for a
cosmopolitan, homophile atmosphere.
Atatürk Oto Sanayi Sitesi G 52 Sokak xlargeclub.com.tr/
no:12/1 maslak
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Istanbul
Turkey
Lucca
Perhaps the poshest bar in Istanbul, Lucca is an exclusive nightspot in the centre
of the high-flying Bebek District.
Cevdetpaşa Caddesi No:51 B, Bebek www.luccastyle.com/#/tr/ana-sayfa/
Istanbul
Turkey
360
Named with good reason, this trendy rooftop bar provides unmatchable views of
the city.
Istiklal Caddesi 163, Misir Apartman www.360istanbul.com/
Floor 8, Beyoğlu
34330 Istanbul
Turkey
Nargilem
In Tophane, not far from the Istanbul Modern and behind Nusretiye Mosque,
there’s a street lined with nargile – shisha – cafés. The combined aromas of tea,
tobacco and spices invite passersby in to enjoy an authentic hookah experience.
At the Nargilem café, the atmosphere is relaxed and the decor traditional.
Sali Pazari Sira Mańüazalar 101-1a, www.nargilemcafe.com.tr/
Beyońülu
Istanbul
Turkey
Calendar of events
Events in Istanbul
International Istanbul Film Festival
Organised by the prestigious Istanbul Foundation for Culture and Arts, this annual
film festival shows a great selection of Turkish and foreign language films.
Screenings take place at various venues throughout Istanbul and there are a
number of prizes awarded to the best films in different categories. The International
Istanbul Film Festival was first held in 1982 and has grown to become one of the
biggest film festivals in the country, attracting thousands of visitors each year.
April 2019
film.iksv.org/en
Venue: Various cinemas and theatres in Istanbul
International Music Festival
Organised by the Istanbul Foundation for Culture and Arts, this annual event is one
of the biggest festivals of its kind in Turkey. Since it was first held in 1973, the
popular International Istanbul Music Festival has presented an exciting programme
of opera and classical musical performances by artists and groups of regional,
national and international repute. Performances take place in a number of stunning
venues around the city and have ranged from international orchestras to traditional
Turkish music groups.
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May - June 2019
http://muzik.iksv.org/en
Venue: Various venues
Bosporus Swimming Race
Contestants from all over the world enter Istanbul’s Cross-Continental Swimming
Race and put their all into crossing the Bosporus from Europe to Asia – from
Kanlica to Kuruscesme. The spectators, on the other hand, put their all into
cheering them on.
July 2019
http://bogazici.olimpiyat.org.tr/?dil=en
Venue: From Kanlica to Kuruscesme
Kurban Bayrami
Many people leave Istanbul and head for the country with their families when the
Muslim “feast of sacrifice” Kurban Bayrami comes around. This considerably slows
the pace of life in the bustling metropolis, allowing visitors to get to know the
quieter side of Istanbul.
11 - 15 August 2019
Venue: Various venues
Istanbul Biennial
Istanbul's main arts festival takes place in a variety of historic buildings and venues
across the city. The aim since its foundation in 1987 has been to bring together
artists from home and abroad to encourage a free exchange of ideas and
inspiration. A showcase for contemporary art, the Istanbul Biennial has attracted
leading exhibitors such as the British Turner prize winners Gillian Wearing and
Gavin Turk.
14 September - 10 November 2019
bienal.iksv.org/en
Venue: Various venues
International Theatre Festival
Performances of a wide variety of theatrical works from Turkey and Europe.
November 2019
tiyatro.iksv.org/en
Venue: Various theatres and performance spaces in and around Istanbul
Hotels
Hotels in Istanbul
Modern and cosmopolitan, Istanbul has no shortage of accommodation, from
boutique properties and converted Ottoman houses,to luxury international hotels.
The tourist centre in the old quarter of Sultanahmet contains a range of budget
options.
Marti
This stunning art hotel was created by local-born designer, Zeynep Fadillioglu,
Turkey's first woman to build a mosque.
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Abdulhak Hamit Caddesi 25B, Taksim Price: Expensive
34000 Istanbul
Turkey
Çırağan Palace Kempinski
This restored palace was once occupied by the Ottoman sultans and offers
breathtaking views of the Bosphorus.
Çırağan Caddesi 32 Price: Expensive
34349 Istanbul
Turkey
Anemon Galata
Combining old and new, Anemon Galata features traditional Ottoman designs and
furnishings while being near the action in Beyońülu.
Bereketzade Mah. Buyuk Hendek Price: Moderate
Caddesi 11, Beyońülu, Kuledibi
34000 Istanbul
Turkey
Turkoman
Positioned ideally on the same square as the Sultanahmet Camii, Turkoman's 20
rooms stand in full glare of the mosque's soaring minarets.
Asmalı Çeşme Sk. No: 2 Adliye Yanı Price: Moderate
Sultanahmet
34490 Istanbul
Turkey
Momento
This handsome new hotel, built in 2011, has spacious rooms, is centrally located
and provides good value for money.
Mithat Pasa Caddesi Kucuk Haydar Price: Cheap
Efendi Sokak 14
34080 Istanbul
Turkey
Crew Tip
My Istanbul
If I have friends visiting Istanbul for the first time, I like to take them for a Turkish
coffee in Ortaköy district, down on the waterfront near the Bosporus Bridge. Ortaköy
is also famous for upmarket nightclubs, like the Sortie, Angelique and Reina.
© Lufthansa GmbH
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Best of ...
Hamams
© Thinkstock/gettyimages
Driven by their predilection for water and cleanliness, the Ottomans built some of
the most beautiful bathhouses in the world. In Istanbul alone, a dozen ancient
hammams still survive, each of them centuries old.Generally frequented by locals,
they are also attracting more and more foreign visitors who prefer the public baths
to their hotel’s spa – a visit to the hammam deep-cleans the skin and pampers
body and soul.
Çemberlitaş Hamamı
One of the oldest and most atmospheric bathhouses in the city is located very close
to the Great Bazaar. This hammam was founded by a sultan’s wife as a way of
supporting a charitable institution and built by the Ottoman architect Sinan in 1584.
Contrasting with the entrance area’s tall timber structures, the bathhouse itself
features large domed roofs with glass insets.
Vezirhan Cd No: 8 Opening times:
Mollafenari Mh. Daily 0600-2400
34200 Fatih/İstanbul
Turkey Admission:
Tel. +90-212/522 79 74 approx. 20 euros, classic treatment
approx. 30 euros
cemberlitashamami.com/index.php?dil=
en
Cağaloğlu Hamamı
The list of illustrious visitors to this hammam, which dates from 1741, spans
Germany’s Kaiser Wilhelm, Tony Curtis and Kate Moss. Situated amid the famous
landmarks of the historical old town, it numbers among the New York Times’ “1000
places to see before you die.” Come in the morning and you will have the opulent
changing rooms and the steam room with its lofty domed ceiling almost to yourself.
Cağaloğlu Hamamı Sokak No:34 Opening times:
Fatih/Istanbul women daily 0800-2000
Turkey men daily 0800-2200
Tel. +90-212/522 24 24
Admission: approx. 30 euros
cagalogluhamami.com.tr/Default.aspx
Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamamı
This hammam, considered the oldest bathhouse in Sultanahmet, was built in 1556
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by Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent as a gift for his wife Roxelana. After many
years of use as a carpet store, it was finally restored and reopened in 2011 as the
most glamorous and most expensive of the old town hammams. It operates like a
western spa offering aromatherapy and reflex zone massages in addition to the
traditional hammam treatment.
Cankurtaran Mah. Opening times:
Bab-ı Hümayum Cad. No: 1 Daily 0700-2300
Sultanahmet/İstanbul
Türkei Admission:
Tel. +90 212 517 35 35 from 70 euros
ayasofyahamami.com/
Tarihi Galatasaray Hamamı
Little has changed here since 1481, the year it opened, – except that in 1963 a
women’s area was added. The entrance is unspectacular, the rooms are rustic, and
the visitors are mainly from the neighborhood, but you can certainly experience an
authentic Turkish steam bath here. Hardly anyone speaks English, you get a real
good rubbing down – and it is very hot.
Turnacıbaşı Sok No: 24 Opening times:
Beyoğlu/İstanbul women daily 0800-2000
Turkey men daily 0600-2200
Tel. +90-212/2494342
Admission:
approx 25 euros, classic treatment
approx. 40 euros
www.galatasarayhamami.com/hamma
m/
Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamamı
Built in 1580, this hammam, located in Karaköy and a stone’s throw away from the
Istanbul Modern Museum and the Bosporus cruise terminal, has just emerged from
a seven-year period of renovations and is now open to women, as well as men.
Because the building is very old, but not very large, there are no separate areas for
women and men, so mornings and afternoons are reserved for women, and the
men come after half past four.
Kemankeş Mah. Opening times:
Hamam Sok. No: 1 women daily 0800-1600
34425 istanbul men daily 1630-2330
Turkey
Tel. +90-212/393 80 10 Admission:
classic treatment approx. 45 euros
kilicalipasahamami.com/
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24 hours in ...
Istanbul
© Kristina Rütten/Fotolia
09:00 a.m. - Market and büryan
We begin our tour off the beaten tourist track in the Fatih district of Istanbul’s old
town. Most of the people who live here came to Istanbul from eastern Turkey and
neighboring countries, such as Iraq, Iran and Syria. Gastronomically speaking, the
eastern Anatolian city of Siirt is particularly well represented here. At Fatih market,
(the largest in the city, incidentally) stallholders offer passersby the chance to
sample Siirt butter, Siirt cheese as well as traditional regional dishes, like perde
pilavi – rice, almonds and chicken wrapped in a pastry case.Arguably the most
important and best-known specialty here is büryan lamb, and one of the best
places to try it is Siirt Seref. There, the meat of several lambs is baked for hours on
end in an earth oven, or cooking pit, and then cut into small pieces by the usta, the
master, and served on homemade pide bread. Büryan is traditionally washed down
with ayran, a wonderfully thirst-quenching, savory yoghurt drink.
Mah. İtfaiye Cad. No: 4
34440 Fatih Merkez/İstanbul
Turkey
Tel. +90-212/635 80 85
12:00 p.m. - Spices and sweetmeats
The old town of Istanbul is not just where we find the Hagia Sophia museum and
Topkapı Sarayı palace, once the residence of the Ottoman sultans, but also the
Mısır Çarşısı, the spice bazaar. The bazaar came into being here in the 17th
century and owes its existence to Istanbul’s importance as a commercial center
along the trade routes between Asia and Europe, where spices have always been
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an important commodity. As we move through the bazaar, enthusiastic vendors call
to visitors at the top of their voices and in at least five languages – in each of them
promising only “the best of the best.”Beneath the ancient vaulted roof, the
tantalizing scents of saffron and sage competing with clove buds and thyme, and
the gorgeous arrays of ginger, Turkish nougat, pistachios and dried apricots, figs
and dates almost always prove irresistible. The oldest candy shop in town
(established in 1777 by Ali Muhiddin Hacı Bekir) with its array of large brown jars
filled with colorful gleaming boiled candies, countless varieties of Turkish delight
(lokum) and nut pastes is a sight for sore eyes and a treat for the taste buds.
Hamidiye Caddesi No: 83
34110 Fatih
Turkey
Tel. +90-212/522 06 66
03:00 p.m. – Mackerels and shopping
At the foot of the Galata Bridge, which connects the old town with Beyoğlu district,
we happen upon a simple but delicious snack, balik ekmek, a kind of sandwich
filled with freshly grilled mackerel, onion and lettuce that is sold from boats. Stalls
brimming with gleaming silver fish, lush displays of grapes and mountains of
sweet, fragrant melons line two narrow streets close to the Galata Bridge. The
vendors wave us over, gesticulating wildly and extoling the quality of their wares,
while to left and right, delicious odors waft across from nearby food stalls and
restaurants.
Louis Vuitton and Prada have taken up residence in Nişantaşı, a district also
favored by small Turkish designer boutiques and contemporary art galleries.Once
we have quenched our thirst for shopping, we take in the ample culinary delights
on display in Mahalle, a gourmet food court on the top floor of the City’s Nişantaşı
shopping mall, where some of the best and best-known restaurants in the city now
have branches. After the sight of all that food, it’s a good idea to drop by Tatbak,
one of the country’s most famous lahmacun bakeries, for a bite to eat.
Zeynep Kürşat Alumur’s olive oil store sells premium oils, delicious olives and
capers, and also pretty olivewood tableware – all family-produced and all perfect
souvenirs for the folks back home. Zeynep’s family hails originally from Ayvalık in
southwestern Turkey, and in the Kürşat family everything has revolved around
olives since 1923. They created their own brand in 1996 and opened their first
store in Istanbul in 2004 - in Nişantaşı.
Şakayık Sok. No: 75/B
Teşvikiye/Istanbul
Turkey
Tel. +90-212/247 30 31
08:00 p.m. – Meze most fine
The evening begins at a meyhane, a traditional restaurant for meze, the small hot
and cold dishes that are Turkey’s equivalent to Spain’s tapas. We head to the
Mekan Restaurant & Cafe, where Marie Esgici serves the best meze in town and is
so welcoming and cheerful, you immediately feel right at home. Marie is originally
from Armenia, which explains one of the specialties to land on every table – topik,
a mixture of chickpeas, potatoes, onions and cinnamon that rests on each plate like
miniature softball. Everything at the Mekan is homemade – so if you don’t become
a regular, you must be a tourist.
Eski Çiçekçi Sokak No: 3
34250 Beyoğlu/İstanbul
LH.com/travelguide Istanbul 15/16Travel Guide
Istanbul
16
Turkey
Tel. +90-212/252 60 52
12:00 a.m. – Cocktail with a view
Luckily, it’s only a short walk to the bar-restaurant Le Fumoir at the Georges Hotel
Galata, a small, but elegant designer hotel with just 20 rooms. Sitting on the terrace
here, replete and happy, with one of the establishment’s excellent cocktails in your
hand and the glorious sight of the Golden Horn and the moonlit Bosporus before
you, is a fine way to end the evening – especially when only a few stairs separate
you from your bed.
Serdar-ı Ekrem Cd No: 24
Beyoğlu
Turkey
Tel. +90-212/244 24 23
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