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Galore International Journal of Applied Sciences and Humanities
Vol.4; Issue: 4; Oct.-Dec. 2020
Website: www.gijash.com
Review Paper P-ISSN: 2456-8430
Vikram Seth’s From Heaven Lake: Travels Through
Sinkiang and Tibet- A People’s Travelogue of
Cultural Assimilation
Ashima Sona
Former Head, Department of English, Assam Don Bosco University
ABSTRACT predecessors who turned out to be the
connoisseurs of art and landscapes from
Vikram Seth’s From Heaven Lake: Travels their travel adventures.
Through Sinkiang and Tibet is a book that falls The book is a travel memoir where
in the genre of travel writing. It does not focus Seth chronicles his journey through China to
on the usual course of monumental history and
New Delhi via Tibet while studying at
the architectural details of the places visited. It
is in fact an intriguing description of the people university. The winner of the Thomas Cook
of China and Tibet and presented like a Travel Travel Book Award in 1983 it documents
Memoir. This paper tries to study the the travel that takes place in the summer of
biographical details built upon ordinary 1981 when Seth as an exchange student
interactions with simple humanity that come en from Stanford, went to study at Nanjing
route. The richness of the local colours is poured University. It was then he decided to head
out through various physical, cultural and racial home in Delhi to spend the summer
engagements. There is a strange warmth vacation with his family and feel the
exhibited that brings out the psyche of the homeland. From Heaven Lake is the story
people towards a foreigner. It endorses
of Seth’s experiences en-route planned quite
assimilation humanly and culturally. The tone of
uncommonly, in a hitch-hiking manner and
Romanticism seeps into the descriptions and
images about the life and surroundings of the the tryst with the extraordinary people he
ordinary masses. The theme of Diaspora and encounters on the way. The narrative
Cultural assimilation runs throughout the unfolds numerous thinly disguised
narrative such that it omits the sense of any biographical details with utmost emotion
cultural displacement and reveals Vikram Seth and passion of a romantic onlooker. His
as a writer with a deep understanding of travelogue quite unlike the other travel
humanity and culture. writings is based more on the human
interactions and observations of the ordinary
Key words: People, Memoir, Interaction, beings. The journey traversed across four
Cultural assimilation, Diaspora, Romanticism. major Chinese provinces: Xinjiang, also
known as Sinkiang, the desert province of
INTRODUCTION Gansu, the plateau of Qinghai, and Tibet is a
Two roads diverged in a wood and I-I mirror to the Chinese ethos combined with
took the one less travelled by. the writer’s feelings drawn from these
-Robert Frost places.
Vikram Seth’s forte lies in his He was on a three-week tour
versatility that ranges from a vast gambit of organised by the Nanjing University for its
fictional prose to travel writings. He chose foreign students, defined by Seth as ‘a
the uncommon road to count more than the mixed bunch’, which is quite suggestive of
places he visited in his travelogue From the fact that China is a popular choice for
Heaven Lake and become different from his students from countries like US, Japan and
Galore International Journal of Applied Sciences and Humanities (www.gijash.com) 1
Vol.4; Issue: 4; October-December 2020Ashima Sona. Vikram Seth’s From Heaven Lake: Travels Through Sinkiang And Tibet- a people’s travelogue of
cultural assimilation
India because of its diplomatic and a flight of thought and imagination that puts
academic relationship on the global front. the narrative under a Romantic prose alive
These students were on leave from their to the picturesque lives of the ordinary
mother universities and during the holidays masses.
were permitted to travel in China. Seth The travel theory suggests that the
explains this aspect further in the Foreword travel writers construct and interpret reality
to the 1990 Edition of the book: from their individual angles of vision, and
travel writing is an exercise in introducing
“This book is an account of what I the `self' to the `other', and an attempt to
saw, thought and felt as I travelled through build bridges that link humanity through an
various parts of the People’s Republic of understanding of diverse cultures. They
China as a student. It is not intended as a create the sense from their experience and
summary of the political or economic perception of the actual reality. This adds
situation of that country, although I did the constructivist perspective to travel
occasionally digress into such ruminations writings.
in the course of writing the book.” (p 2) Seth builds up the discussion around
The narrative is bifurcated into his travel fantasy laid upon his observations
descriptions based upon two different and his perspective. For instance when he
journeys undertaken. The first involves describes vividly the towns of Urumchi and
covering the desert regions of Turfan, Turfan on the northern branch of the ancient
HeavenLake, Mount Bogda and Xian. It was silk route where he begins the journey there
an organised tour meant to show the chosen is reality transfigured into imagination and
places to a foreigner. Seth towards the end tale-
of it was not content and felt fettered and “The flies have entered the bus, and
deprived of the actual glimpse of life and their buzzing adds to the overwhelming
place. He, therefore, at the end of the sense of heat. We drive through the town
official tour decided to take up travel by first: a few two storey buildings of
overland via Tibet and Nepal to his depressing concrete, housing government
hometown Delhi. offices or large shops….(p1)”
The richness of the local colours is
poured out through physical, cultural and He further enumerates the beautiful
human tryst. There is an intrepid and geographical features of Xinjiang a desert
adventurous instinct in the author as one province in China with Turfan the oasis
finds that the travel route which he took was town in it. His observation mark intricacy in
not a usual one mapped by the tourists in the the description of “Karez” an underground
past. tunnel used to bring water from the
Seth’s journey begins on a hot July mountains for the purpose of irrigation in
day in Turfan, one of the closest cities to the region.
China’s border with Russia and a major city The narrative portrays the
in Sinkiang. His interest in people is at once spontaneous life of the masses in small
aroused at the picturesqueness of the local towns. Ironically the close interactions
scene that gives a way into the vivid reveal Chinese as both convivial and a
descriptions of the large variety of Chinese hospitable race. He says that “for the
and Tibetan race. Chinese people, there is a general sense of
These included Hans, Uighurs, friendliness and curiosity towards the
Kazakhs, Muslims, Buddhists, Christians individual foreigner…..”(p9). He uses this
and more. He tries to forge a relationship expression even for the officialdom that
with the people here and bring out their restricts the foreigners from interacting with
psyche and their reactions towards a the local population.
foreigner with subtle eagerness. It gives him
Galore International Journal of Applied Sciences and Humanities (www.gijash.com) 2
Vol.4; Issue: 4; October-December 2020Ashima Sona. Vikram Seth’s From Heaven Lake: Travels Through Sinkiang And Tibet- a people’s travelogue of
cultural assimilation
Although, he succumbs to the idea narrative is filled with informal accounts
of xenophobic tendencies as the foreigners that he has drawn out from a vast cross-
are “closely watched at all times so that it section of people during the course of his
does not see too much, do too much on its journey.
own or influence the behaviour of the local Seth brings out the local’s psyche
inhabitants”(p9), but he seems to relish and and reaction towards a foreigner at close
recognize their hospitality that mingles hand.
naturally into these encumbrances.. He recalls from an engagement in a
Seth throws a keen insight into their clothing store in Liuyuan that they stare at
racial evolution in his talks about the people foreigners in awe; however he discerns
of Sinkiang and the complexity of the certain warmth and compassion that
region. It is now an integral part of China impinges all his interactions.
but it once existed as an entirely The narrative has a tone of
independent province. A North West part of wontedness and affection and Seth’s style of
China with population that constitutes the sensory details occur throughout the
non-Hans race is unlike the rest of the narrative. The human reality is brought out
Chinese who belong to the Hans clan. These on the basis of an individual experience
people are a mixture of the nomadic with people and society. There is a non-
communities of Uighurs and Kazakhs, judgmental and non-premeditated
follow the Islamic religion and dress up in understanding of the people that marks the
colourful attires quite different to Chinese entire narrative.
who are fond of grey and blue clothing. The Ironically he observes that “For
narrative embarks on their features as Chinese people, there is a general sense of
marked and more like Turkish than Chinese. friendliness and curiosity towards the
In his one- to-one interaction with people, individual foreigner which is
Seth discovers the script used in the region remarkable.…..”(9). Especially when it
is Arabic and not Chinese. They fall under appears quite contrary to the usual opinion
minority community and the narrative about them as unfriendly and unpredictable.
presents them in a sympathetic light as In one of the close interactions with
neglected and deprived. The region a young man in Sinkiang he acknowledges
contributes to the socio-racial diversity of the closing down of the mosques during
China and the divisive elements spread Cultural Revolution and lends a discussion
across the geographical boundaries in the upon the political scene. The young man
vastness of the country. thereafter becomes affable and unexpectedly
The memoir points at the change of asks him to have dinner at his house. Seth
script by the government in this region from recalls that, later, he even “waits at the bus
Arabic to Latin to deter any Russian stop with” him. Seth asks him not to “but he
influences on the common masses. The smiles it off-until the bus comes” (32.)
change grossly affected the community and exhibiting his cordiality towards him. These
is related in the moving saga of Akbar recollections delineate the element of
where the language gaps were created nostalgia and assimilative indicators to the
within the family where the grandson and memoir through author’s warm emotions
grandfather practised one language and the and respect for the loving and caring people
son another. he came across and makes the narrative
The uniqueness of the travelogue appear uniquely, a People’s travelogue. It
lies in the Seth’s personal exchanges with strongly endorses a cultural amalgamation
the people that enabled the text with such on both sides.
fine quotidian details .On account of these The description relates fondly to yet
close chats he discusses certain core issues another memorable episode when Seth is
in the light of Cultural Revolution and the made to perform at a cultural event in a
Galore International Journal of Applied Sciences and Humanities (www.gijash.com) 3
Vol.4; Issue: 4; October-December 2020Ashima Sona. Vikram Seth’s From Heaven Lake: Travels Through Sinkiang And Tibet- a people’s travelogue of
cultural assimilation
hotel. His song from the popular movie from there goes to Lhasa via road. The
‘Awara’ wins him a huge popularity in the narrative constitutes this part of the journey
Chinese audience and he is able to get as full of uncertainties in terms of the route
endorsements on his passport to visit Lhasa and the mode of conveyance. To go to
and Tibet and places which are otherwise Lhasa from Liuyuan he takes a lift from a
forbidden to a foreigner. But the officials at truck driver ‘Sui’ who agrees to give him a
the police station greet him with joy and lift.
honour on account of his performance. The account in these moments also
There is a sense of acculturation reflects upon the high practical sense of
built in this episode where Seth recalls that Seth who in such an uncertain and
the local musicians as accompaniment cumbersome state is able to befriend a truck
began to play the tune from the movie driver and capitalise upon the travel
‘Awara’ and to his surprise he finds that opportunities. It was a journey filled with
“they know the tune better than” he did. He rain, flood and discomfort but Seth tries to
finds their obsession for Raj Kapoor and make the most in the accompaniment of Sui,
Nargis as unexpectedly amazing when their his fifteen year old nephew Xiao San and a
‘Laj’ and ‘Lita’ turn out to be their ‘cultural Tibetan Gyanseng. The narrative once again
idols.’ turns to picaresque in style whereby Seth
The narrative carves a rather humane goes about different places and shares his
and tolerant image of people through their interesting tryst with people he comes
assimilation to a different culture ironically across enroute. It turns out to be a sneak
not a dominant one. It ensures both social peek into their homes and their lives. He
and psychological well being deviated from feels-
cultural hostilities. Such a cultural As I pass through a corridor of
displacement is positive and rules out a sunflowers in the way back to the house, I
marginalised existence for an outsider. encounter a dog who tries to lick me and a
The memoir recalls through Seth’s goat who tries to butt me. At the house, is
personal adventure, the existence of feeding the insatiable baby. Her six year old
corruption in the official and bureaucratic niece looks on and laughs (71)
practises. But he managed to escape the Amidst the journey full of natural
official hurdles of red-tapism known as discomforts, he was touched by the warmth
‘guanaxi’ or ‘Lianxi’ in the Chinese and vigor of simple humanity reviving the
language on account of his cultural romantic tone of the narrative. The character
manifestations, his Indian origin and of Sui somewhat typifies a Chinese
knowledge of Chinese language that temperament. He is an easy, happy-go-lucky
fostered a certain liaisoning with the man who follows his whims inadvertently
authorities. A sense of mutual cultural and is grossly socially oriented. In fact Seth
assimilation emerges in these experiences is irked by his gregarious mannerism as he
where the adoption of characteristics, values stops by a lake merely to take fish for his
and beliefs between the ethnic minority and wife. He does try his best to make the panic-
dominant groups take place. There is stricken Seth feel cheerful and easy. These
acculturation practised in both dominant and recollections make appear the narrative’s
minority cultures with the flavouring of tone social and people oriented than
Indian Bollywood music in the dominant political or historical in content. At Sui’s
Chinese populace and the adoption of house at Germu, he discovers:
Chinese language by the minoritised Seth “Xiao Sans father is a thin and
that configures assimilation. gentle man who has a nervous, hospitable
With the formalities complete he manner. In between questions he searches
takes up his journey home via Tibet and through the toffees in the tin for particularly
Nepal. He travels by train to Liuyuan and good ones which he then presses on me. My
Galore International Journal of Applied Sciences and Humanities (www.gijash.com) 4
Vol.4; Issue: 4; October-December 2020Ashima Sona. Vikram Seth’s From Heaven Lake: Travels Through Sinkiang And Tibet- a people’s travelogue of
cultural assimilation
teacup is continually replenished and a fresh imagery and fine descriptions built the tone
cigarette proffered before I have finished the of romanticism and Diaspora and cultural
last one. (Seth, 83) assimilation that appears alternatively
The description quite effortlessly throughout the narrative. Seth’s vision of a
projects Chinese though reserved are by and humanist and a cosmopolitan writer comes
large an affectionate community. The laws alive when he being a writer of English
of status quotient and class discrimination language chose to write on a non-English
do not drive their society and so their open and a non-western location like China and
warmthness seems to bring about the Tibet. The travelogue enforces all the
cultural assimilation assuredly even to a interactions based upon kindness and
foreigner. The narrative exposes the Bonhomie. The sense of cultural
ordinary, mundane details carefully in these displacement is omitted in all these
nuances and touches upon the psyche of interactions and a theme of assimilative
these real characters or people making their experience is constructed in the narrative. It
existence beyond the geographical and reveals Seth as a writer with an
cultural barriers. He was treated like a understanding of human and nature as he
family at Sui’s place and revered wherever feels that it is important “to know other’s
he went, offered all sorts of goodies and culture to enrich one’s life and also to feel
meals. Sui tries to function as his driver cum more at home in the world.” (139).
guide. Though he is easy going but he also
ensures giving a safe ride to him. When they WORKS CITED
are struck for two days in Dunhuang Sui 1. Seth, V. From Heaven Lake: Travels
tries to make a soothing remark to pacify Through Sinkiang and Tibet, London:
Seth “It’s not worth the risk today…we’ll Hogarth Press, New Delhi: Penguin,
definitely try to leave tomorrow.”(59) He 1983, 1990, p 1-139.
would give a resplendent view of the small 2. Theroux, P. Down the Yangtze, Penguin
towns, their streets and the bustling life in Books, 1983, 1995, P50.
them and marvellously describe the rustic,
picturesque, country life. “The apricots of How to cite this article: Sona A. Vikram Seth’s
Dunhuang are marvellous, but just now they from heaven lake: travels through Sinkiang and
are past their prime, while the pears though Tibet- a people’s travelogue of cultural
sweetish, are not quite ripe…..”(60).He assimilation. Galore International Journal of
would wander off in the market and “haggle Applied Sciences & Humanities. 2020; 4(4): 1-
5.
over grapes and eggplants.”(59). The use of
******
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